TIMESTAMPS: 0:47 What is an electric edge creaser? 3:45 How much does it cost? Comparisons with Regad. 7:32 Manual creasers. 10:14 Heat up speeds. 11:17 Who is this product for? 13:53 Mistakes to avoid. 17:16 Smoothing edge paint. 19:47 Using the watch strap tip. 21:39 Heat settings for various types of leather. 23:30 Heat vs speed. 25:52 BONUS project: Stitching on a leather wrap using the baseball stitch.
i started doing leathercraft about ten years ago, at which time there was nobody teaching on youtube. maybe there was some fear that if you teach others, somehow that might hurt your own business. i almost attended a school in Florence because I wanted to really know what I was doing. fast forward to today. what an incredible resource. bravo to you sir for sharing the craft.
Thank you so much for showing me this creaser i have been wondering about them for awhile now. You Sir are an AWESOME man thank you for sharing you leather expertise with the world im sure all can benefit from this video. Also a quick Thank You to Rocky Mountain Supply for also making this video possible for everyone.
I'd argue edge-creasing very much serves a similar purpose to beading in woodworking. A round-over is imparted on the actual edge, and a stark line is created just slightly back from there. Rounding over (or chamfering for that matter) serves the purpose of preventing chip out, and softening to the touch, but it also weakens the visual border your eye follows. This is useful, when masking imperfections in the edge, or making something seem lighter; however, the stark line (recessed from the edge so protected from damage) restores a line for your eye to follow. Indistinct lines can be coded as worn, lacking in confidence, or feeble by the eye - a bead can make the line "straighter than straight." Finally, I agree that as a finishing touch, it almost serves as a "punctuation mark." Even if you look at 18c. British Campaign Furniture, where they've all but done away with ornamentation such as moldings. However, drawer faces on campaign chests almost always still have a slight bead around their perimeter. It's as if the maker could talk, saying "I'm done here."
Thanks a lot for sharing all these tips! I really enjoyed the video. I got my Summit X-1 a year ago and this was really good advise on some of the techniques.
It's also worth considering the boxwood/maple creasers that achieve heat through friction like a burnisher. I know CS Osborne makes them, and I believe VB does too. They're basically slickers but with crease profiles and are applied from above rather than from the side. Cheap too - I believe they're like $8 or something. That is, if you don't hate burnishing, like myself.
Just bought mine. Saw different ones on aliexpress, but decided I can just buy additional tips that rocky mountain didnt have available in the mini tip set. I am waiting for the 22 piece set to be restocked. So I have the machine but no tips.😯 That is going to make me a little antsy waiting for those tips.
I'm thinking to buy an electric creaser machine, but thinking to buy regard cork handle that fits with some of the Chinese electric creaser voltage controller machines. This machine also made by some Chinese company I think.
It's a Dupin/Mingjia machine. Street price in China for dual port, two handles, two wooden cradles, and two tips (probably not FN tips): 2385cny/368.56usd.
When you put the leather wrap around the tool handle how far from the edges did you have your stitch line? About an eighth of an inch? Also when you wrap the leather around the handle how much of a gap do you leave Between the two sides of leather?
Hello, great video! I wanted to know how to you clean the leather edge paint residue that's left on your creaser tip? I can't get if off rubbing it on a tissue or leather. What do you recommend?
Hello! Thank you for this video. I would like to ask about the chrome tanned brown leather, which you wrap around the handle. I have the same leather, but I bought it as a stock one, so I don't know the manufacturer and the product name. Could you give this information as well as the seller of this leather? I would be very grateful
One year on, is this the creaser you are reaching for, or do you still prefer manual creaser and alcohol lamp? I'm thinking of springing for the two port version.
For actual creasing I still go with manual unless I need a crease on a large area. Mostly I use the ironing head and the wax spatula for edge work and removing creases. For that alone I love it.
Thank you very much. I haven't used the mini head set but it is definitely the most economical way of obtaining all the creasing options. I think just by looking at them, they would be dynamite for around corners, but a little tricky along straight edges on soft leather as the guide is so short. Again, never used them, but that would be my guess. Pro's and con's really.
It handles both. Mine came with a US plug, so I switched it to a UK plug. Make sure you do your research first though so that you are satisfied this information is correct.
@@LeathercraftMasterclass I'm very close to sourcing this directly in China (Dupin). Do the FN and other various heads correspond 100% to the dimensions of the Regad heads? For example, will both FN3 heads impart the same crease line the same distance from the edge?
@@LeathercraftMasterclass I did a bit more checking. I have seen this machine listed as 110v-120v or 220v-240v, and I have also seen it listed as dual voltage 110v-240v. I wonder if earlier versions were either or and the latest version is dual voltage for international use. My choices are either this Dupin machine or the Vulcan. They both look good. I just need 110v-240v operation.
I've had mine for over a little over a year and it is extremely finicky. Sometimes it heats , most times it doesn't. But maybe I just happen to have gotten the one rotten apple.
Try unscrewing the tip and cleaning the end with some Scotch-Brite (the end part that inserts into the handle above the screw threads). If there is any dirt on there or where it makes contact inside the handle then there won't be a reliable electrical connection. Also make sure the tip is screwed into the handle tightly. For everyone reading this, please make sure you unplug the machine before attempting this.
Thanks for this excellent review. I've been looking intently at this machine for a couple of months now. It'd be useful to have a more in-depth look at the different tips, since a tyro like me can't yet figure them all out; case in point: the 'edge embossers' -what do they actually do? Can we see them in action? How are they different from the creasers?
Definitely too much heat. You hardly need any any with veg tan, only chrome tan requires a decent amount of heat. If you dip the tip in water (not the heating element!) and it spits, it's too hot.
TIMESTAMPS:
0:47 What is an electric edge creaser?
3:45 How much does it cost? Comparisons with Regad.
7:32 Manual creasers.
10:14 Heat up speeds.
11:17 Who is this product for?
13:53 Mistakes to avoid.
17:16 Smoothing edge paint.
19:47 Using the watch strap tip.
21:39 Heat settings for various types of leather.
23:30 Heat vs speed.
25:52 BONUS project: Stitching on a leather wrap using the baseball stitch.
Thanks Philip. I love your attitude. Your filming is always directed on the project close up so we can see every step. Thank you.
I appreciate that Shannon! You're welcome
i started doing leathercraft about ten years ago, at which time there was nobody teaching on youtube. maybe there was some fear that if you teach others, somehow that might hurt your own business. i almost attended a school in Florence because I wanted to really know what I was doing. fast forward to today. what an incredible resource. bravo to you sir for sharing the craft.
Thank you Scott, I'm so glad you're finding the content valuable 👍
Thank you so much for showing me this creaser i have been wondering about them for awhile now. You Sir are an AWESOME man thank you for sharing you leather expertise with the world im sure all can benefit from this video. Also a quick Thank You to Rocky Mountain Supply for also making this video possible for everyone.
You're welcome! Thank you for the compliments, I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
I'd argue edge-creasing very much serves a similar purpose to beading in woodworking. A round-over is imparted on the actual edge, and a stark line is created just slightly back from there. Rounding over (or chamfering for that matter) serves the purpose of preventing chip out, and softening to the touch, but it also weakens the visual border your eye follows.
This is useful, when masking imperfections in the edge, or making something seem lighter; however, the stark line (recessed from the edge so protected from damage) restores a line for your eye to follow. Indistinct lines can be coded as worn, lacking in confidence, or feeble by the eye - a bead can make the line "straighter than straight."
Finally, I agree that as a finishing touch, it almost serves as a "punctuation mark." Even if you look at 18c. British Campaign Furniture, where they've all but done away with ornamentation such as moldings. However, drawer faces on campaign chests almost always still have a slight bead around their perimeter. It's as if the maker could talk, saying "I'm done here."
As always great content Philip, your videos are always my favorite, thank you for all your valuable information that you share
You're welcome Marie Anne! I'm glad you find the content so valuable 👍
I just purchased this machine based on your review. Kyle at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply was a big help.
That's great to hear John. Thank you for sharing your experience 👍
Thanks a lot for sharing all these tips! I really enjoyed the video. I got my Summit X-1 a year ago and this was really good advise on some of the techniques.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent as usual. 👍
Thank you so much 😀
It's also worth considering the boxwood/maple creasers that achieve heat through friction like a burnisher. I know CS Osborne makes them, and I believe VB does too. They're basically slickers but with crease profiles and are applied from above rather than from the side. Cheap too - I believe they're like $8 or something. That is, if you don't hate burnishing, like myself.
Thank you. Yes they are a very popular option in traditional leatherwork.
Great review Maestro. Thanks!
You bet! Happy you enjoyed it 👊
Thank you for the video. I like the finish with the electric edge. Definitely going to purchase.
Wonderful to hear Kimiko, glad the review helped. Thanks for watching! 👍
Just bought mine. Saw different ones on aliexpress, but decided I can just buy additional tips that rocky mountain didnt have available in the mini tip set. I am waiting for the 22 piece set to be restocked. So I have the machine but no tips.😯 That is going to make me a little antsy waiting for those tips.
Yes, I can imagine that's going to be a little frustrating lol! It'll be worth the wait I'm sure.
I'm thinking to buy an electric creaser machine, but thinking to buy regard cork handle that fits with some of the Chinese electric creaser voltage controller machines. This machine also made by some Chinese company I think.
It's a Dupin/Mingjia machine. Street price in China for dual port, two handles, two wooden cradles, and two tips (probably not FN tips): 2385cny/368.56usd.
Good job 😀👌
Thanks Niko 👍
Nice shop thumbs up
Thanks 👍
Great video, thanks. How do you keep the tips and spatula clean over time?
You're welcome. Clean them with scotch-brite when dirty.
When you put the leather wrap around the tool handle how far from the edges did you have your stitch line? About an eighth of an inch? Also when you wrap the leather around the handle how much of a gap do you leave Between the two sides of leather?
2 or 3mm, something like that. 1-2mm gap, depends on how stretchy the leather is. Less for veg, more for chrome.
Hello, great video! I wanted to know how to you clean the leather edge paint residue that's left on your creaser tip? I can't get if off rubbing it on a tissue or leather. What do you recommend?
A green scouring pad will clean it. I recommend not using a creaser tip, rather a spatula.
Thanks for the “hot tips”
😄
Hello! Thank you for this video. I would like to ask about the chrome tanned brown leather, which you wrap around the handle. I have the same leather, but I bought it as a stock one, so I don't know the manufacturer and the product name. Could you give this information as well as the seller of this leather? I would be very grateful
One year on, is this the creaser you are reaching for, or do you still prefer manual creaser and alcohol lamp? I'm thinking of springing for the two port version.
For actual creasing I still go with manual unless I need a crease on a large area. Mostly I use the ironing head and the wax spatula for edge work and removing creases. For that alone I love it.
Very good review, informative, nice leather handle wrap at the end, thanks. What do you think of the mini head set?
Thank you very much. I haven't used the mini head set but it is definitely the most economical way of obtaining all the creasing options.
I think just by looking at them, they would be dynamite for around corners, but a little tricky along straight edges on soft leather as the guide is so short. Again, never used them, but that would be my guess. Pro's and con's really.
Very nice .... thank you. Is the creasing tip the FN2? Or another?
I use the F2 in the video, but I will be buying the FN set as well.
intro music on point 👍
Cheers! 👍
Maybe I will use cork fabric on the handle. 🤔
Yes, that could work too as long as the adhesive you use doesn't mind getting warm.
When you say 100 degrees do you mean Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Celsius 👍
Thank you 🙏
You're welcome Doc. Thanks for watching :)
👍 = there is nothing left to say! Everything perfect!
Great stuff. Thanks for watching :)
How long should the paint dry when you run the spatula over it?
It depends on the brand. I would recommend following the manufacturer's instructions.
Is the voltage 110v-220?
It handles both. Mine came with a US plug, so I switched it to a UK plug. Make sure you do your research first though so that you are satisfied this information is correct.
@@LeathercraftMasterclass I'm very close to sourcing this directly in China (Dupin). Do the FN and other various heads correspond 100% to the dimensions of the Regad heads? For example, will both FN3 heads impart the same crease line the same distance from the edge?
@@LeathercraftMasterclass I did a bit more checking. I have seen this machine listed as 110v-120v or 220v-240v, and I have also seen it listed as dual voltage 110v-240v. I wonder if earlier versions were either or and the latest version is dual voltage for international use. My choices are either this Dupin machine or the Vulcan. They both look good. I just need 110v-240v operation.
I've had mine for over a little over a year and it is extremely finicky. Sometimes it heats , most times it doesn't. But maybe I just happen to have gotten the one rotten apple.
Try unscrewing the tip and cleaning the end with some Scotch-Brite (the end part that inserts into the handle above the screw threads). If there is any dirt on there or where it makes contact inside the handle then there won't be a reliable electrical connection. Also make sure the tip is screwed into the handle tightly. For everyone reading this, please make sure you unplug the machine before attempting this.
Nice!
Thank you
Thanks for this excellent review. I've been looking intently at this machine for a couple of months now. It'd be useful to have a more in-depth look at the different tips, since a tyro like me can't yet figure them all out; case in point: the 'edge embossers' -what do they actually do? Can we see them in action? How are they different from the creasers?
Mine seems to burnish veg tan leather and gives it a blotchy look throughout the creased line. Why could this be?
Definitely too much heat. You hardly need any any with veg tan, only chrome tan requires a decent amount of heat. If you dip the tip in water (not the heating element!) and it spits, it's too hot.
nice shoes
Thank you. 'Loake Bedale'
Was on the fence. No longer.