I just did my 2013 Outback today. I didn't end up tilting the engine up with a jack; I wanted to try it without that step first, and I was able to do all 4 plugs. I removed the same parts off the Air intake as you did, and I took the battery out. My 3/8 three inch wobble extension and my 1/4 inch swivel universal extension were most useful. I wrapped duct tape around the swivel universal to make it like a wobble extension; this was used on the Drivers rear with a 1/4 ratchet and adapter to 3/8 drive 14mm deep socket. That coil BTW easily came out by gently pulling the head to the front and up. I was able to do the other 3 plugs with the 3inch wobble 3/8 extension adapted to a 1/4 drive ratchet. If my 3/8 ratchet was hinged I would have been able to use it on all but the drives side rear. I didn't torque the new plugs; I did the 1/4 turn after snug method. The old plugs at 70k were fine. A hinged ratchet would have been nice. Job took my about an hour and a half of actual work time. Thanks for your video; its videos like yours that can inspire the confidence for DIY.
@@bwhit707 I changed the head gaskets on a 2010 Outback. They are so easy to repair! One does not have to pull the engine out of the engine bay at all. For most modern vehicles, one has to lower the engine out of the engine bay. Though, a 2010 Outback is a bit of a stretch to call modern, I could probably completely rebuild the engine in the engine bay.
great video. however, no need to loosen motors mounts or anything like that if you have a 2014 outback with 2.5. plus, there's a front motor mount on the 2014 that prevents you from lifting the engine. the only thing you have to remove is the air intake duct for the passenger side (don't need to take out airbox). i just replaced all plugs in about 1 hour. having smaller hands will help because there's some tight spaces but otherwise with a little patience, beer, and music it's easy peasy.
Just changed the plugs on my 2014 outback 2.5L Wasn’t easy but didn’t have to jack the engine up (there’s a 3rd eng mount in the front I didn’t want to mess with, not to mention I wasn’t crazy about jacking from the oil pan), just had to remove the battery from the driver side, and the air box on the passenger side. 3/8 drive with a swivel and 3” & 6” extensions was all I needed. Plug closest to the driver (#4?) was the tightest, but doable. This video was great…I’d watched several and combined the tips from each. Lesson learned-I dropped the first plug onto the ground, apparently it landed on the metal prong and closed the gap (and chipped the porcelain I later learned). Was getting a rough idle, and then a code for misfire cyl 2. Got a new one and all was good. This job was a pain, but thanks for your video…it was really helpful.
Thanks Brian, Very well presented. I did not completely remove the intake air duct, just disconnected the filter cover. Jacked the tranny but left the nuts still on the mounts. Removed the battery for ease of access. No 1/4" anything so struggled a bit with 3/8 socket set. Did not remove the the wires from the boots. I did remove the black metal covers above which helped with access, only 2 10 mm bolts on each. Thanks everyone else for your comments, it all helps!
Did this in less than 2 hours. Thanks. Looks like I need a head gasket though. 3 plugs had oil all in the tube. Beyond my ability and time to repair. Thanks again. Great video.
If you're going to jack up the motor don't forget the motor mount in the front of the car. My 2014 outback 2.5 ltr premium lifted it only about 1&1/2 inches took an HR to do all 4 plugs. Super small space to get them out. The worst is the d.s. back plug but went together smoothly. Thanks for a great video
These cars are rather easy easy to work on. I have a 2010 outback and did the front n rear diffs. The front was easier than what people make it out to be. There is a filler hole where there used to be a dipstick on older models that is secured with a rubber grommet type fitting with a hose attacthed, super easy to do. Love videos like this. U can get away with not tilting the engine but it makes it easier.
@Jim McDermott I replaced both with Leds about a year ago. My entire arms were nicked up and it was an absolute pia. However, I didn't remove the bumper or the wheel lining as it was suggested was the only way. With that said, my way was not quicker, I'm sure of that. Also, if they ever need to be replaced again, that will be a dealer job, regardless the cost lol.
@@todtalk3912 Same here for it being a dealer job! I didn't remove them either. I just turned the wheel in and popped the wheel lining loose and worked my hand in. Either way, it's just insane how difficult it was to replace a headlight bulb. I replaced with LED as well and so far so good.
This is an easy job. Def save yourself the money and do it yourself. Engine mount nuts easily come off and the jack up procedure is super simple. I didnt remove the whole air intake system just the air filter box and it worked fine. Def do it yourself.
8-6-23, I just replaced 4 NGK plugs today on my ‘12 Outback 2.5 with 151k. it took me about 2 hours, easier than I thought. I didn’t replace the coils but that will be easy in the future. No need to raise the Engine, I removed the battery and air intake up to the throttle body. Good access with a 5/8 plug socket and multiple ratchet lengths and a angled ratchet.
It’s not necessary to jack up the engine, though I can see how it speeds up the job. I personally consider it too risky both for the oil pan and for fingers. The space is really tight, but everything can eventually come out and go back in with some gentle wiggling. Just did it today after watching this video for guidance. Tip: remove both drivers side wires from the coils before removing the drivers side rear coil. It won’t come out until the wires are out of the way. Removed air filter and battery for clearance. Thanks for a very helpful video!
Nicholas Smith It took a few tries to figure the right way to squeeze, wiggle, and pull. With the right squeeze it doesn’t take too much force. Did you get it?
Awesome man. Thank you so much for posting this. I followed along and was able to change out the plugs and air filter in my 2014 Subaru Outback in under an hour. Jacking up the engine made it super easy.
Great vid. I just finished changing the plugs on my 2014 Subaru Legacy 2.5. I was able to do it without removing the entire air intake, just the filter housing. The 6mm socket trick to push that wire loom out was helpful. I also didn't disconnect the coils from the wires. Just pulled the whole assembly off and put them right back on. Jacking the engine up helped a lot especially with the driver side rear plug. Gave it just enough clearance above the fender well. I just loosened the engine mount nuts to the top of the posts, then jacked it up tight to there.
My daughter and I replaced the spark plugs today on her 2013 Forester, did not jack the engine up. Yes, we removed the battery for access on driver side, and air box on the passenger side for access. We bought a 14mm swivel magnetic socket to use, worked great. We also replaced the the serpentine belt and the engine air filter.
I just changed the plugs on my 2012 Outback and I it wasn't difficult. All I needed to do was remove the air filter by loosening the hose clamp on the output side of the housing, remove the air intake that is attached to the grill and then I was able reach in and replace the plugs without any problem. On the left side, I didn't need to take the battery out, just reach in and do the work. This guy makes the process look far more difficult than it really needs to be. My wife watched this video and then watched me change the plugs and she said, "I'm surprised he didn't tell everyone to remove the tires and the steering wheel too."
I changed the spark plugs on my 2013 Subaru Outback. You can avoid lifting engine if you have a proper socket/extension/rachet combination. I managed to replace 3 spark plugs without jacking up engine but eventually had to lift the motor to replace the driver side spark plug. Unlike other people commented, you can lift engine with removing the two nuts as this video instructs.
Thanks for the time you spent on this. Perhaps one day I'll give it a try. At least I know what is involved. The car manufacturers just love designing things this way and I'm sure they could make it a lot easier. My first car, VW Rabbit, had the spark plugs right on top of the manifold, didn't have to move a thing out of the way. Just pop off the wires and unscrew the plugs: so easy. (Sigh)
Changed plugs on Subaru Outback. Took off two nuts on engine mount. Engine would not jack up.The rest of the job worked out fine. 2013 Subaru out back. Thanks.
The 2013 outback has a front motor mount bolt and nut that must be removed before the engine can be lifted in this manner. From a torque chart I found and used the following torques. Coil bolts 5 lb/ft (M6 into aluminum casting) Motor mount bolts 37 lb/ft (M10 steel) Thanks for the video was a great help.
It was absolutely necessary to loosen the front engine mount on the 2014 Outback in order to lift the engine as demonstrated. As other users have noted, the car will start to rise a bit as the weight of the engine is eased, but then the engine itself should begin moving shortly thereafter. Mark the threads on the 2 primary rear engine mount points and monitor engine lift. If you start to see your tires leave the ground, you've got something else going on. There was no way to fit even just a wrench with a shallow socket on the Driver Rear, even with a wobble extension without lifting the engine.
I wish I would have known about the front motor mount before I tried to change my plugs. Basically had to reverse all my steps and take it to a mechanic because I didn't feel like I could safely take the pressure off the front motor mount to do this job.
James McVey Glad the video helped you make the right decision for you. Now you know how much work it takes so you know if your getting a fair price on the labor. Thank you for watching!
After getting a bid that seemed high, I thought I'd see what it takes. After he dismantled the car and still hadn't gotten to the plugs, I figured this wasn't a job for me. Don't even get me started on the tools...which I don't own.
Did a valve cover job on a v8 ford expedition Eddie bower edition and man all I gotta say is f my life and ford. I didn’t have to touch the coils or plugs but if I did it still would’ve sucked all the same. Not after having everything removed but just the location. Honestly this Subaru isn’t that bad I looked it up to do it for a buddy and thought it might be shity but honestly not to bad
@@jrd4793 The second easiest engine I have ever worked on is the Subaru Outback engine. I did not have to pull it out of the engine bay at all. I changed the head gaskets right under the bonnet!
Excellent video! I'm in the process of pulling my plugs on my high mileage outback I have found oil in the wells. Through a little more research it appears that it's not the valve cover gasket gone bad that causes this, but rather the spark plug tube seals failing that does. However, pulling the valve covers to get to the tube seals and replacing the valve cover gaskets in the process is a good idea. If you have one, I'd be interested in watching your video on valve cover gasket and tube seal replacement. Thanks!
Subarus are neat cars and I was considering buying one, but I have to admit I am not a fan of the boxer engine. What a pain just replacing the spark plugs which is a very simple task on inline and V style engines.
For all the rest of us guys. I have looked through many videos on this. This guy has the best one. Did not mean anything. It took me 2 hours from start to finish. The passenger side is much easier than the driver side ones. If you remove the battery it may stop you from cutting the crap out of your arms. Not sure that is worth the effort. Skin heals.
Usually when we do plugs it's a major service in. 60k 90k and so on. When I do the driver side I remove the battery, 1 because it makes it easier and 2 we do a battery test on major services. So while I'm doing the driver side plugs I'm also testing the battery in the mean while. Also if your car has auto windows don't forget to the relearn. Basically you use passenger side button first hold the window up button till it goes up and down till it goes down a few times then the passenger window will automatically go up and down then do the drivers side the same way, after that the driver side controller will be able to control both windows.
@@PorfirioCastro Videos, like this, will have dealership robbery service centers starving! All of us want and need this! Maybe they will drastically lower their prices when they see nobody going into their robbery bays.
2012+ (not 2009-2011) Legacy/Outback had the newer and different style (but stil flat 4) FB25 engine shown in this video. The earlier EJ253 engines were easier to work on.
I've worked on the several Subarus that my wife and I have owned. I like the engines and have never had major issues with them, but the Boxer engine does make it difficult for doing the plugs.
Good video. Thank you for posting. I was able to do it without jacking the engine on a 2014 with a few scraped knuckles and using a swivel extension. The magnet definitely came in handy.
Very good video. Really needed this. What about the motor mount in the front, any damage to those when picking up the rear with the floor jack. My dealer wants $700 for the 60,000 mile maintenance. That's oil and filter, cabin filter, air filter, bleed brakes and the friggen spark plugs. Less than $150 for all OEM parts. I'm doing it myself. I'm scared of the plug change however. 2014 forester, the plugs are right up against the frame rail. Using NGK Iridium Lasers. SILZKAR7B11 (NGK). I was able to do the passenger side by removing the air filter and cover. I was able to get my torque wrench in there. Torqued to 13 ft/lbs. Put them on dry.
What was the milage on this outback? Old Sparkplags seem to be in good condition. I don't like the 60k schedule recommended by Subaru. I think it is a scheme to avoid warranty claim and attraction for more Subaru dealers.
Just an fyi, if u go with ngk SIFR6A11 is the part number and style the dealer will replace ur plugs with. Only diff between them n the plugs from advanced or any part store is they will come in a white subaru labled box from the dealer. Just fyi on that.
Was checking to see if I could do this my self... I mean heck, to change the oil is as easy as filling your gas tank, with the filter on top and all... he said "disconnect the engine, and Jack it up..." Yep, nope. Taking it to a shop. I'm not about to move the engine myself. I need to blame a pro if something goes wrong....
the motor mounts are really easy to get to on Subarus, basically a 14 mm fastener on each mount (2 lower and 1 upper), literally just falls right back into place when lowering the jack
@@xjosh86x Easy for a subaru mechanic pro, not easy if you are not used to removing engines......if you mess it up well you might damage the engine and tranny linkage. Better to let the dealership handle these things and pay the premium as a peace of mind.......If they screw it up, well they need to replace the parts at their expense.
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You dont have to lift the engine, it just makes it easier to get to
I was able to change three of the plugs on my 2017. The rear driver side one was what got me when I was pulling the coil pack off the rubber boot split. I still washing able to get it completely off and I messed it up.
thank you! The engine didn't jack up that much. driver side was really challenging. Perhaps remove the battery would help. Definitely invest in a ratchet with universal joint. Consider not taking the connectors off the coils. One of min is not snapping back in place.
I appreciate this video because your instructions and video are clear enough that I've determined this maintenance is something I'm willing to pay someone else to do 😹😹😹
The driver side of a 2.5l 2010 outback i didn't remove anything. It was tricky getting the rear i think number 4 plug, but nonetheless worked fine. The driver side i only removed the big air hose with the maf sensor out of the way n the air filter box stayed but moved the filter n the latching side of it. Super easy. Unfortunately for me, plugs 3 n 4 had a little bit of oil basically meaning an internal valve cover gasket leak n i have yet to do it but will soon for sure.
Not really, it depends on which part you working on, throttle body, starter motor, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, intake/exhaust Manifold are easy.
Interesting... We have a 2012 Forester. Changing spark plugs is definitely a little tight but we don't have to lift the motor at all. Maybe a difference between the Outback and Forester? I would've thought the Outback would have more room under the hood since it is the same 2.5L engine in a bigger compartment.
I'm typically alright doing simple diy car maintenance jobs...this one definitely shot me in the foot. Couldn't get the engine jacked up without lifting the entire front end. Then stripped the threads on the engine for one of the 10mm coil packs. Humbled I guess?
I have a 2014 outback and found oil in on one of the tubes. Question, would you replace the tube seals on all 4 plugs and gaskets on both sides or just the one tube and gasket on that side?
I would do both sides with all the tube seals. It’s only a matter of time before they all Leak. And you’re already in there working, it’s little bit more time to do them all.
When I tried to lift the engine, it didn't move and started lifting the car. I stopped because I thought it may damage the oil pan. Am I doing something wrong? I have big hands and really need the room.
Awesome video -- thanks so much for posting this. I wouldn't have tried jacking up the engine without seeing this video, but that only took a few minutes and helped gain some needed room for working.
Hello, I'm having trouble removing the coil wire from the coil pack. You mention squeezing the tab on the wire. Is the tab on the engine side of the plug (rather than fender side)? I think I feel a tab on the engine side, but am unable to remove the wire from the coil.
Matt Koebel I believe there’s just one tab on the outside. The best way to get them off is to push them in towards the coil then press the tab and then pull back
There are two prominent youtube videos on how to do this. The other does not jack the engine or do nearly as much dismantling. I'm going to try and do this without jacking the engine tonight. I'll report back which seems more helpful/necessary.
I did NOT jack up the engine. I did remove the battery and air filter to get better access to the plugs. I used a 14 mm deep well socket with 1- 1 1/2" extension and a universal. I used a cheater bar to get me some extra torque. This worked well and I'm not a mechanic.
Paul Sarsany… so your saying someone with some machine maintenance experience could handle this instead of paying $260 and waiting 3 hours for a Subaru dealership to do it?
Mogwyre Pendelhurst there is absolutely no reason to jack the engine up. It thoroughly annoyes me when people unfamiliar with Subarus advise people to do this.
Hello, I am using a translation program. Can you tell me who the original Subaru supplier is. Which manufacturer uses Subaru to install the ignition coils?
OBD is showing P0301 (misfire error) then it goes off, its on for a day, then off for a few days, then on for a bit. What do you think is causing that? something with MAF or coilpack? Dealer told the wife we ordered your parts in, so I wonder what parts they are talking about? ironically, this OBD error started after they did a tune-up and changed plugs.
Thank you! I sent an email to them asking what are we paying $500 for? are you installing some ignition coil boot or some electronic device or doing more diagnostics. I'll see what they say. Thank you - truly appreciated!
feedback is that it's the VVT and they think it's explaining why a bank of pistons are misfiring, so it's ~5-600 to install new VVT next week. Last visit was to confirm OBD and verify oil levels were proper. Does this make sense it would be VVT? according them they are changed all the time. I am guessing there are other PID codes, possibly P028 and P029 (guessing those the numbers for the front right and left VVT. At some point it becomes a do what you do best question; however, if only one VVT is needed and lets say on the very high side it's $200 how do they get to 500+ bill. That's the part of the industry that makes people not trust dealers.
Raising an engine just to change some spark plugs and removing all those other parts. I work on cars all the time and to me it seems either you need to use a wide array of extensions and swivels so you will not have to raise an engine. Either way thank you Honda and Toyota for not deploying boxer engines.
Just did this today and yes 2013 legacy I had to jack the engine up only on the drivers side about 1 inch. If I didn’t lift it I would have been rubbing the fuel line with my tool as some other idiot has done because I could see the scratches from his ratchet. Other than that it was easy (engine mount nuts were TIGHT and a PITA.)
I tried to jack up the engine on my 2013 Outback but it looks like there is one motor mount on the front that I can't loosen. How do you loosen these? Take the radiator fans off first?
While I appreciate your effort, you do *NOT* need to jack the engine up for this job. A few specific extensions (wobble) and a universal joint can tackle this without having to move the engine around at all on this gen. Source? I just did it (and have done it dozens of times previously) without issue. Additionally, the plugs on the 2010 at least are not 14mm. Lastly, the 2009 model is different than 2010. 2010 was the changeover year to the new body and engine compartment style.
it seems like Outback has much wider space on side of engine to frame compare to Forester, may be because of wider frame car. 2019 Forester was worse than 2014 Forester.
It's a good thing it's only every 60,000 miles, so probably only twice in the lifetime of the car. And once you get past 120k miles you might be pulling the engine out for some other reason anyway and then it will be easy. A set of plugs is only $30 to $60 so no reason not to do them a bit early if the occasion arises. On the flip side, changing the oil filter -- which you do ten times more frequently -- is utterly trivial on a Subaru. It's right there on top, next to the oil fill cap.
Would I have to jack up the engine just to take the coils off a 2011 Subaru Outback Premium 2.5i? I got the error codes P0304 and P0301. Also, how do I know what numbers the cylinders are? Thanks! :)
Paul Gray Cylinders one and three are on the passenger side and cylinders two and four driver side. You can try taking the coils out about Jack in the engine up first. But if you get stuck you can always could jack the engine up.
@@HowtoAutomotive thanks! As it was- it appeared the only problem was corrosion (blue powder) on the positive battery terminal. Any idea why that happens? I cleaned both terminals and no engine light going off (other lights were too). The codes said 2 cylinders were misfiring. Let’s hope that wasn’t the case. :)
There’s no need to removed a lot parts . If u watch A1 auto video you’ll see what I am talking about is a lot easier and down to the point. U don’t need to lift the engine or remove a lot parts.
Tried following the steps in this video today and could not get the engine to raise as shown. The front of the car would raise but the engine would not lift off of the bolts. I was afraid I would crush the oil pan with too much pressure put on it. Any suggestions as to how to get that step to work?
I personally think you were showing off your tools did the same job with plain everyday tools no impact pull off things you don't need too but thanks for the video
I did the valve covers on a 2010 outback. After I was done I realized that you don't actually have to take the covers all the way out. You can sneak all the gaskets out and in while just moving the valve cover around. It did look like in the video we just watched that there was enough room to get the covers off. Something tells me he has another video on how to do the valve cover gaskets.
Thanks for the thorough video! I was a bit surprised that the plugs are put on dry. Is this because of the specific plug used or is this for all subaru outback? There's no concern about the plug seizing/galling?
NGK specifically says not to put on anti-seize as you can over tighten and strip the threads. I found this out in researching my plugs on a Chevy Captiva. The plugs were branded AC but were actually NGK. Yes I realize these are Denso but they are both made in Japan.
where are you at? Id rather pay you to do this yes I have a shop and tools, Im just 60 and bending over is tough on a big guy [im6"6"] a doable job as I am retired and time isnt that big a concern. on my 2014 outback there is no need to remove the air intake on the throttle body as i look right down on the motor mount bolts. :) I have seen some that dont jack up the engine, but that is too tight, doable [when they do it] :)
I removed the two nuts and tried jacking the engine up but it wasn’t budging. Instead it was just bringing up the entire front end. This happen to anyone else, if so how’d you fix this?
Thanks for changing my mind about buying one of these cars. I'm staying away. No one should have to lift the engine or remove engine parts in order to change sparkplugs. Stupidity of some designs amazes me.
You need a scanner. If it was not on before doing the spark plugs something got left unplugged. The scanner will help you find that out. Auto parts stores will do it free for you if you take it there.
Suddenly a boxer engine sucks. Takes me 2 minutes to change plugs on a Honda. I have oil on cylinder 2 on a 2015 Outback with misfire. I checked engine codes.
FOR 2016 SUBARU LEGACY 2.5L -It's not necessary to remove the entire air filter system . Only the Air filter housing on the left side. t's also not necessary to remove the spark plug boot from the wire. On the 2016 the boot is held in by a metal clip which is hell to get on and off. On driver side of the 2016 I had to remove the battery and the battery housing to access spark plugs. Even with engine jacked up you can't get you hands down to the spark plug to work. -I did remove the engine mount bolts and jack up the engine but I feel like that wasn't necessary on the 2016. It's a major hassel because the 2016 has a undercarraige cover sucks taking off. Jacking up the engine on my 16 didn't do much. I still have to remove the battery and battery housing.
![[HOW TO] Replace Spark Plugs on 2013 Subaru Legacy 2.5i (Easy)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bTuECXGMgx0/mqdefault.jpg)
I just did my 2013 Outback today. I didn't end up tilting the engine up with a jack; I wanted to try it without that step first, and I was able to do all 4 plugs. I removed the same parts off the Air intake as you did, and I took the battery out. My 3/8 three inch wobble extension and my 1/4 inch swivel universal extension were most useful. I wrapped duct tape around the swivel universal to make it like a wobble extension; this was used on the Drivers rear with a 1/4 ratchet and adapter to 3/8 drive 14mm deep socket. That coil BTW easily came out by gently pulling the head to the front and up. I was able to do the other 3 plugs with the 3inch wobble 3/8 extension adapted to a 1/4 drive ratchet. If my 3/8 ratchet was hinged I would have been able to use it on all but the drives side rear. I didn't torque the new plugs; I did the 1/4 turn after snug method. The old plugs at 70k were fine. A hinged ratchet would have been nice. Job took my about an hour and a half of actual work time. Thanks for your video; its videos like yours that can inspire the confidence for DIY.
@@bwhit707 I changed the head gaskets on a 2010 Outback. They are so easy to repair! One does not have to pull the engine out of the engine bay at all. For most modern vehicles, one has to lower the engine out of the engine bay. Though, a 2010 Outback is a bit of a stretch to call modern, I could probably completely rebuild the engine in the engine bay.
great video. however, no need to loosen motors mounts or anything like that if you have a 2014 outback with 2.5. plus, there's a front motor mount on the 2014 that prevents you from lifting the engine. the only thing you have to remove is the air intake duct for the passenger side (don't need to take out airbox). i just replaced all plugs in about 1 hour. having smaller hands will help because there's some tight spaces but otherwise with a little patience, beer, and music it's easy peasy.
Excellent video Brian. From a old tech (Ret) with 47 years in the business and 37 as an owner.
Uncle Doug thank you!! It’s always good to get respect from your peers. Thank you for watching!
Just changed the plugs on my 2014 outback 2.5L Wasn’t easy but didn’t have to jack the engine up (there’s a 3rd eng mount in the front I didn’t want to mess with, not to mention I wasn’t crazy about jacking from the oil pan), just had to remove the battery from the driver side, and the air box on the passenger side. 3/8 drive with a swivel and 3” & 6” extensions was all I needed. Plug closest to the driver (#4?) was the tightest, but doable. This video was great…I’d watched several and combined the tips from each. Lesson learned-I dropped the first plug onto the ground, apparently it landed on the metal prong and closed the gap (and chipped the porcelain I later learned). Was getting a rough idle, and then a code for misfire cyl 2. Got a new one and all was good. This job was a pain, but thanks for your video…it was really helpful.
Thanks Brian, Very well presented. I did not completely remove the intake air duct, just disconnected the filter cover. Jacked the tranny but left the nuts still on the mounts. Removed the battery for ease of access. No 1/4" anything so struggled a bit with 3/8 socket set. Did not remove the the wires from the boots. I did remove the black metal covers above which helped with access, only 2 10 mm bolts on each. Thanks everyone else for your comments, it all helps!
Did this in less than 2 hours. Thanks. Looks like I need a head gasket though. 3 plugs had oil all in the tube. Beyond my ability and time to repair. Thanks again. Great video.
What year and Mileage had your car ? Thanks
@@mahed82 2013 with 144k miles. First quote was 4k to replace. Still looking.
Valve cover gasket or head gasket?????
@@tommykellum7277Jesus Christ, 4k? Wtf
So much for Subaru reliability.
If you're going to jack up the motor don't forget the motor mount in the front of the car. My 2014 outback 2.5 ltr premium lifted it only about 1&1/2 inches took an HR to do all 4 plugs. Super small space to get them out. The worst is the d.s. back plug but went together smoothly. Thanks for a great video
These cars are rather easy easy to work on.
I have a 2010 outback and did the front n rear diffs. The front was easier than what people make it out to be.
There is a filler hole where there used to be a dipstick on older models that is secured with a rubber grommet type fitting with a hose attacthed, super easy to do.
Love videos like this. U can get away with not tilting the engine but it makes it easier.
Except for headlight bulb replacement. That takes a contortionist or a lift.
@Jim McDermott I replaced both with Leds about a year ago.
My entire arms were nicked up and it was an absolute pia.
However, I didn't remove the bumper or the wheel lining as it was suggested was the only way. With that said, my way was not quicker, I'm sure of that.
Also, if they ever need to be replaced again, that will be a dealer job, regardless the cost lol.
@@todtalk3912 Same here for it being a dealer job! I didn't remove them either. I just turned the wheel in and popped the wheel lining loose and worked my hand in. Either way, it's just insane how difficult it was to replace a headlight bulb. I replaced with LED as well and so far so good.
This is an easy job. Def save yourself the money and do it yourself. Engine mount nuts easily come off and the jack up procedure is super simple. I didnt remove the whole air intake system just the air filter box and it worked fine. Def do it yourself.
8-6-23, I just replaced 4 NGK plugs today on my ‘12 Outback 2.5 with 151k. it took me about 2 hours, easier than I thought. I didn’t replace the coils but that will be easy in the future. No need to raise the Engine, I removed the battery and air intake up to the throttle body. Good access with a 5/8 plug socket and multiple ratchet lengths and a angled ratchet.
It’s not necessary to jack up the engine, though I can see how it speeds up the job. I personally consider it too risky both for the oil pan and for fingers. The space is really tight, but everything can eventually come out and go back in with some gentle wiggling. Just did it today after watching this video for guidance. Tip: remove both drivers side wires from the coils before removing the drivers side rear coil. It won’t come out until the wires are out of the way. Removed air filter and battery for clearance. Thanks for a very helpful video!
How do you remove the wires? I cannot figure out how to unlock that little metal clip to get the wires off.
Nicholas Smith It took a few tries to figure the right way to squeeze, wiggle, and pull. With the right squeeze it doesn’t take too much force. Did you get it?
Awesome man. Thank you so much for posting this. I followed along and was able to change out the plugs and air filter in my 2014 Subaru Outback in under an hour. Jacking up the engine made it super easy.
Ian Memory glad the video helped. I was going to ask if everything went smoothly but it sounds like it did. Thank you for watching!
Great vid. I just finished changing the plugs on my 2014 Subaru Legacy 2.5. I was able to do it without removing the entire air intake, just the filter housing. The 6mm socket trick to push that wire loom out was helpful. I also didn't disconnect the coils from the wires. Just pulled the whole assembly off and put them right back on. Jacking the engine up helped a lot especially with the driver side rear plug. Gave it just enough clearance above the fender well. I just loosened the engine mount nuts to the top of the posts, then jacked it up tight to there.
My daughter and I replaced the spark plugs today on her 2013 Forester, did not jack the engine up. Yes, we removed the battery for access on driver side, and air box on the passenger side for access. We bought a 14mm swivel magnetic socket to use, worked great. We also replaced the the serpentine belt and the engine air filter.
Awesome sounds like a good day with your daughter !
I just changed the plugs on my 2012 Outback and I it wasn't difficult. All I needed to do was remove the air filter by loosening the hose clamp on the output side of the housing, remove the air intake that is attached to the grill and then I was able reach in and replace the plugs without any problem. On the left side, I didn't need to take the battery out, just reach in and do the work.
This guy makes the process look far more difficult than it really needs to be. My wife watched this video and then watched me change the plugs and she said, "I'm surprised he didn't tell everyone to remove the tires and the steering wheel too."
I changed the spark plugs on my 2013 Subaru Outback. You can avoid lifting engine if you have a proper socket/extension/rachet combination. I managed to replace 3 spark plugs without jacking up engine but eventually had to lift the motor to replace the driver side spark plug. Unlike other people commented, you can lift engine with removing the two nuts as this video instructs.
Thanks for the time you spent on this. Perhaps one day I'll give it a try. At least I know what is involved. The car manufacturers just love designing things this way and I'm sure they could make it a lot easier. My first car, VW Rabbit, had the spark plugs right on top of the manifold, didn't have to move a thing out of the way. Just pop off the wires and unscrew the plugs: so easy. (Sigh)
Changed plugs on Subaru Outback. Took off two nuts on engine mount. Engine would not jack up.The rest of the job worked out fine. 2013 Subaru out back. Thanks.
The 2013 outback has a front motor mount bolt and nut that must be removed before the engine can be lifted in this manner.
From a torque chart I found and used the following torques.
Coil bolts 5 lb/ft (M6 into aluminum casting)
Motor mount bolts 37 lb/ft (M10 steel)
Thanks for the video was a great help.
It was absolutely necessary to loosen the front engine mount on the 2014 Outback in order to lift the engine as demonstrated. As other users have noted, the car will start to rise a bit as the weight of the engine is eased, but then the engine itself should begin moving shortly thereafter. Mark the threads on the 2 primary rear engine mount points and monitor engine lift. If you start to see your tires leave the ground, you've got something else going on. There was no way to fit even just a wrench with a shallow socket on the Driver Rear, even with a wobble extension without lifting the engine.
I wish I would have known about the front motor mount before I tried to change my plugs. Basically had to reverse all my steps and take it to a mechanic because I didn't feel like I could safely take the pressure off the front motor mount to do this job.
Thanks for reinforcing that I'll just take it to the dealer. Great vid anyhow though.
James McVey Glad the video helped you make the right decision for you. Now you know how much work it takes so you know if your getting a fair price on the labor. Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive My dealer wanted to charge $800!
John Doe i’m sure by doing it yourself you save a ton of money.
Why remove motor bolts
After getting a bid that seemed high, I thought I'd see what it takes. After he dismantled the car and still hadn't gotten to the plugs, I figured this wasn't a job for me. Don't even get me started on the tools...which I don't own.
Man you’re awesome, going right for the bull’s eye, no unnecessary fluff just the raw knowledge. Appreciate that, now I have to do it. 👍👍
Thank you!
after watching this great video, i decide to buy inline engine...
If you bought something with an inline 6 engine, congratulations. If you bought an inline 4, you have my sympathies unless you bought Toyota or Honda.
@@indridcold8433 Damn, I bought Chevy traverse v6... LOL
Did a valve cover job on a v8 ford expedition Eddie bower edition and man all I gotta say is f my life and ford. I didn’t have to touch the coils or plugs but if I did it still would’ve sucked all the same. Not after having everything removed but just the location. Honestly this Subaru isn’t that bad I looked it up to do it for a buddy and thought it might be shity but honestly not to bad
@@jrd4793 The second easiest engine I have ever worked on is the Subaru Outback engine. I did not have to pull it out of the engine bay at all. I changed the head gaskets right under the bonnet!
Excellent video! I'm in the process of pulling my plugs on my high mileage outback I have found oil in the wells. Through a little more research it appears that it's not the valve cover gasket gone bad that causes this, but rather the spark plug tube seals failing that does. However, pulling the valve covers to get to the tube seals and replacing the valve cover gaskets in the process is a good idea.
If you have one, I'd be interested in watching your video on valve cover gasket and tube seal replacement. Thanks!
Great Vid, just completed the Spark plug change and it would have been much more difficult without your engine raising trick! Thank you!
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Subarus are neat cars and I was considering buying one, but I have to admit I am not a fan of the boxer engine. What a pain just replacing the spark plugs which is a very simple task on inline and V style engines.
Jacking the engine up is definitely not required. I used to think so until I did my own 2011. These engines are so incredibly easy to work on.
For all the rest of us guys. I have looked through many videos on this. This guy has the best one. Did not mean anything. It took me 2 hours from start to finish. The passenger side is much easier than the driver side ones. If you remove the battery it may stop you from cutting the crap out of your arms. Not sure that is worth the effort. Skin heals.
Thank you for watching any the additional tips!
Usually when we do plugs it's a major service in. 60k 90k and so on. When I do the driver side I remove the battery, 1 because it makes it easier and 2 we do a battery test on major services. So while I'm doing the driver side plugs I'm also testing the battery in the mean while. Also if your car has auto windows don't forget to the relearn. Basically you use passenger side button first hold the window up button till it goes up and down till it goes down a few times then the passenger window will automatically go up and down then do the drivers side the same way, after that the driver side controller will be able to control both windows.
Just a terrific video. Easy to overlook the magnet but you really made it simply no matter what your level of training.
Thank you!
always good to hear a tech talk about reach-arounds
William Wygant lol
Good no frills and direct instruction video on how to get this done efficiently, clearly you know what your doing, thanks!
Thank you!!
@@PorfirioCastro Videos, like this, will have dealership robbery service centers starving! All of us want and need this! Maybe they will drastically lower their prices when they see nobody going into their robbery bays.
Am doing one now. Thought I had to remove battery. Realized coils are flexible and can sneak out of tight space. Good video
Man this makes me glad my Optima has straight 4/ I4.
2012+ (not 2009-2011) Legacy/Outback had the newer and different style (but stil flat 4) FB25 engine shown in this video. The earlier EJ253 engines were easier to work on.
Great video. Thanks for posting. My local Subaru dealer was quoting me $325 US to change the plugs on my Outback... ridiculous.
Mine quoted me around $600 for a "tune up". Ridiculous
Our dealer wanted $375 to change the plugs, lol.
@@cycleof7s438 Same here,ha ha 600 bucks to change plugs!
I've worked on the several Subarus that my wife and I have owned. I like the engines and have never had major issues with them, but the Boxer engine does make it difficult for doing the plugs.
Us guys with big hands thank you! Raising the engine made a big difference and only took an extra 1 minute. Thumbs up!
ZXKawi glad the tip helped. Thank you for watching!
Good video. Thank you for posting. I was able to do it without jacking the engine on a 2014 with a few scraped knuckles and using a swivel extension. The magnet definitely came in handy.
The jacking up the engine tip saved me. I accidentally got my socket and extension stuck in that pesky drivers side back well
Glad the tip was helpful and you got your socket back. Thanks for watching!
Very good video. Really needed this. What about the motor mount in the front, any damage to those when picking up the rear with the floor jack.
My dealer wants $700 for the 60,000 mile maintenance. That's oil and filter, cabin filter, air filter, bleed brakes and the friggen spark plugs. Less than $150 for all OEM parts. I'm doing it myself. I'm scared of the plug change however. 2014 forester, the plugs are right up against the frame rail. Using NGK Iridium Lasers. SILZKAR7B11 (NGK). I was able to do the passenger side by removing the air filter and cover. I was able to get my torque wrench in there. Torqued to 13 ft/lbs. Put them on dry.
What was the milage on this outback? Old Sparkplags seem to be in good condition. I don't like the 60k schedule recommended by Subaru. I think it is a scheme to avoid warranty claim and attraction for more Subaru dealers.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Got the guts to tackle this finally.
You got this! Thank you for watching!
Just an fyi, if u go with ngk SIFR6A11 is the part number and style the dealer will replace ur plugs with.
Only diff between them n the plugs from advanced or any part store is they will come in a white subaru labled box from the dealer. Just fyi on that.
Was checking to see if I could do this my self... I mean heck, to change the oil is as easy as filling your gas tank, with the filter on top and all... he said "disconnect the engine, and Jack it up..."
Yep, nope. Taking it to a shop. I'm not about to move the engine myself. I need to blame a pro if something goes wrong....
the motor mounts are really easy to get to on Subarus, basically a 14 mm fastener on each mount (2 lower and 1 upper), literally just falls right back into place when lowering the jack
@@xjosh86x Easy for a subaru mechanic pro, not easy if you are not used to removing engines......if you mess it up well you might damage the engine and tranny linkage. Better to let the dealership handle these things and pay the premium as a peace of mind.......If they screw it up, well they need to replace the parts at their expense.
You dont have to lift the engine, it just makes it easier to get to
Can't wait to get that tool you got Milwaukee all day
Not sure what you mean by that?
Thanks a ton. Worked like a charm and saved me some serious money. I appreciate your time and effort.
I was able to change three of the plugs on my 2017. The rear driver side one was what got me when I was pulling the coil pack off the rubber boot split. I still washing able to get it completely off and I messed it up.
thank you! The engine didn't jack up that much. driver side was really challenging. Perhaps remove the battery would help. Definitely invest in a ratchet with universal joint. Consider not taking the connectors off the coils. One of min is not snapping back in place.
I appreciate this video because your instructions and video are clear enough that I've determined this maintenance is something I'm willing to pay someone else to do 😹😹😹
I’m glad the video helped you make the right decision. Thank you for watching!
The driver side of a 2.5l 2010 outback i didn't remove anything. It was tricky getting the rear i think number 4 plug, but nonetheless worked fine. The driver side i only removed the big air hose with the maf sensor out of the way n the air filter box stayed but moved the filter n the latching side of it.
Super easy.
Unfortunately for me, plugs 3 n 4 had a little bit of oil basically meaning an internal valve cover gasket leak n i have yet to do it but will soon for sure.
Boxer style engine look like a pain on the ass to work !!
Good video by the way . ..
Not really, it depends on which part you working on, throttle body, starter motor, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, intake/exhaust Manifold are easy.
Interesting... We have a 2012 Forester. Changing spark plugs is definitely a little tight but we don't have to lift the motor at all. Maybe a difference between the Outback and Forester? I would've thought the Outback would have more room under the hood since it is the same 2.5L engine in a bigger compartment.
Thanks for the excellent video with clear shots and tons of detail...but done so quickly!
Good video. No anti seize on the plugs?
Why use denso instead of the Subaru NGK's?
I'm typically alright doing simple diy car maintenance jobs...this one definitely shot me in the foot. Couldn't get the engine jacked up without lifting the entire front end. Then stripped the threads on the engine for one of the 10mm coil packs. Humbled I guess?
I am trying to find your list of tools in the comments and I am not seeing them. Great video!
I have a 2014 outback and found oil in on one of the tubes. Question, would you replace the tube seals on all 4 plugs and gaskets on both sides or just the one tube and gasket on that side?
I would do both sides with all the tube seals. It’s only a matter of time before they all Leak. And you’re already in there working, it’s little bit more time to do them all.
When I tried to lift the engine, it didn't move and started lifting the car. I stopped because I thought it may damage the oil pan. Am I doing something wrong? I have big hands and really need the room.
Yea, see, when I heard that step, I backed out of the DIY mentality. Need to blame someone for messing the engine up if something goes wrong.
Awesome video -- thanks so much for posting this. I wouldn't have tried jacking up the engine without seeing this video, but that only took a few minutes and helped gain some needed room for working.
Yes it makes a big difference. Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive when I try and lift the motor, the entire car lifts up.. Any suggestions??
Hello, I'm having trouble removing the coil wire from the coil pack. You mention squeezing the tab on the wire. Is the tab on the engine side of the plug (rather than fender side)? I think I feel a tab on the engine side, but am unable to remove the wire from the coil.
Matt Koebel I believe there’s just one tab on the outside. The best way to get them off is to push them in towards the coil then press the tab and then pull back
There are two prominent youtube videos on how to do this. The other does not jack the engine or do nearly as much dismantling. I'm going to try and do this without jacking the engine tonight. I'll report back which seems more helpful/necessary.
I did NOT jack up the engine. I did remove the battery and air filter to get better access to the plugs. I used a 14 mm deep well socket with 1- 1 1/2" extension and a universal. I used a cheater bar to get me some extra torque. This worked well and I'm not a mechanic.
Paul Sarsany… so your saying someone with some machine maintenance experience could handle this instead of paying $260 and waiting 3 hours for a Subaru dealership to do it?
gsnowak0w0w yes indeed! You may have to go to a dealership to buy the plugs, about $20 each.
Mogwyre Pendelhurst there is absolutely no reason to jack the engine up. It thoroughly annoyes me when people unfamiliar with Subarus advise people to do this.
Autozone or NAPA should carry them
Hello, I am using a translation program. Can you tell me who the original Subaru supplier is. Which manufacturer uses Subaru to install the ignition coils?
OBD is showing P0301 (misfire error) then it goes off, its on for a day, then off for a few days, then on for a bit. What do you think is causing that? something with MAF or coilpack? Dealer told the wife we ordered your parts in, so I wonder what parts they are talking about? ironically, this OBD error started after they did a tune-up and changed plugs.
Todd Edmondson that could be the coil or they cracked a spark plug. I would not suspect mass airflow.
Thank you! I sent an email to them asking what are we paying $500 for? are you installing some ignition coil boot or some electronic device or doing more diagnostics. I'll see what they say. Thank you - truly appreciated!
feedback is that it's the VVT and they think it's explaining why a bank of pistons are misfiring, so it's ~5-600 to install new VVT next week. Last visit was to confirm OBD and verify oil levels were proper. Does this make sense it would be VVT? according them they are changed all the time. I am guessing there are other PID codes, possibly P028 and P029 (guessing those the numbers for the front right and left VVT. At some point it becomes a do what you do best question; however, if only one VVT is needed and lets say on the very high side it's $200 how do they get to 500+ bill. That's the part of the industry that makes people not trust dealers.
Great video! Can you please do a similar video for replacing a knock sensor on 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5L?
Raising an engine just to change some spark plugs and removing all those other parts. I work on cars all the time and to me it seems either you need to use a wide array of extensions and swivels so you will not have to raise an engine. Either way thank you Honda and Toyota for not deploying boxer engines.
Tooyota sells a car with a boxer engine :-)
I have a 2016 outback 2.5, and did it without raising the engine. Really tested my patience and it forced me to get creative.
Excellent how to video! You make it look so easy
Would this work the same on a 3.6L engine?
Just did this today and yes 2013 legacy I had to jack the engine up only on the drivers side about 1 inch. If I didn’t lift it I would have been rubbing the fuel line with my tool as some other idiot has done because I could see the scratches from his ratchet. Other than that it was easy (engine mount nuts were TIGHT and a PITA.)
Thank you, can you do a 2010 2.5l turbo Forester? Please!!!
You’re a legend. Thank you so much. Socket sizes and all !
What an absolute pain in the butt! I looked at changing the plugs on a 2001. Realized the work involved and let the dealer do it.
Definitely a ton of work. Hopefully the video helps you make the right decision.
I tried to jack up the engine on my 2013 Outback but it looks like there is one motor mount on the front that I can't loosen. How do you loosen these? Take the radiator fans off first?
While I appreciate your effort, you do *NOT* need to jack the engine up for this job. A few specific extensions (wobble) and a universal joint can tackle this without having to move the engine around at all on this gen. Source? I just did it (and have done it dozens of times previously) without issue. Additionally, the plugs on the 2010 at least are not 14mm. Lastly, the 2009 model is different than 2010. 2010 was the changeover year to the new body and engine compartment style.
it seems like Outback has much wider space on side of engine to frame compare to Forester, may be because of wider frame car. 2019 Forester was worse than 2014 Forester.
Nice Video! Detailed, clearly explained and short! Awesome!
Thomas Thomasino thank you and thank you for watching!
Wow! All that for spark plugs
Ahh, us Subie fans sure love our silly pancake motors
It's a good thing it's only every 60,000 miles, so probably only twice in the lifetime of the car. And once you get past 120k miles you might be pulling the engine out for some other reason anyway and then it will be easy. A set of plugs is only $30 to $60 so no reason not to do them a bit early if the occasion arises.
On the flip side, changing the oil filter -- which you do ten times more frequently -- is utterly trivial on a Subaru. It's right there on top, next to the oil fill cap.
Would I have to jack up the engine just to take the coils off a 2011 Subaru Outback Premium 2.5i? I got the error codes P0304 and P0301. Also, how do I know what numbers the cylinders are? Thanks! :)
Paul Gray Cylinders one and three are on the passenger side and cylinders two and four driver side. You can try taking the coils out about Jack in the engine up first. But if you get stuck you can always could jack the engine up.
@@HowtoAutomotive thanks! As it was- it appeared the only problem was corrosion (blue powder) on the positive battery terminal. Any idea why that happens? I cleaned both terminals and no engine light going off (other lights were too). The codes said 2 cylinders were misfiring. Let’s hope that wasn’t the case. :)
I have a 2016 subaru outback 2.5 with a misfire on cylider 3. Does anyone know the location of cylinder if standing in front of the car?
There’s no need to removed a lot parts . If u watch A1 auto video you’ll see what I am talking about is a lot easier and down to the point. U don’t need to lift the engine or remove a lot parts.
about how long should this operation take for someone with auto skills and metric tools. take?
pauliewalnuts1949 if I remember right it was an hour to an hour and a half to do this job.
thanks, the subaru place wants to charge me 2.5hrs, I will do it myself.
Tried following the steps in this video today and could not get the engine to raise as shown. The front of the car would raise but the engine would not lift off of the bolts. I was afraid I would crush the oil pan with too much pressure put on it. Any suggestions as to how to get that step to work?
Samee any awnser??
Mine had a front motor mount bolt that needed to be detached. Once I found that out, I just took it to a mechanic.
Don’t lift the motor at all. Not needed.
I assume you loosened the motor mounts some before jacking it up?
Bleebleblahble88 yes I show that in the video
How to Automotive missed it sorry. Thanks for all you do. Also you sold me an M18 impact :)
I personally think you were showing off your tools did the same job with plain everyday tools no impact pull off things you don't need too but thanks for the video
As long as a Videos Helpful that’s all I care about
Does anyone know if you can get the valve covers off and check the clearances with this method, or does this engine have to come completely out?
I did the valve covers on a 2010 outback. After I was done I realized that you don't actually have to take the covers all the way out. You can sneak all the gaskets out and in while just moving the valve cover around. It did look like in the video we just watched that there was enough room to get the covers off. Something tells me he has another video on how to do the valve cover gaskets.
Thanks for the thorough video! I was a bit surprised that the plugs are put on dry. Is this because of the specific plug used or is this for all subaru outback? There's no concern about the plug seizing/galling?
Every plug i've seen in the past many many years specifically said on the package to install dry
NGK specifically says not to put on anti-seize as you can over tighten and strip the threads. I found this out in researching my plugs on a Chevy Captiva. The plugs were branded AC but were actually NGK. Yes I realize these are Denso but they are both made in Japan.
Many vehicles these days utilize aluminum cylinder heads and it’s super easy to over tighten and destroy the threads.
where are you at? Id rather pay you to do this
yes I have a shop and tools, Im just 60 and bending over is tough on a big guy [im6"6"]
a doable job as I am retired and time isnt that big a concern.
on my 2014 outback there is no need to remove the air intake on the throttle body as i look right down on the motor mount bolts. :)
I have seen some that dont jack up the engine, but that is too tight, doable [when they do it] :)
Is this the same for legacy
i got 3 of them i screwed up the coil pack rear driveer side could not get the rubber buut out and i split it
Was there two air filters in the air box?
Michael Butler no just one.
I removed the two nuts and tried jacking the engine up but it wasn’t budging. Instead it was just bringing up the entire front end. This happen to anyone else, if so how’d you fix this?
Thanks for changing my mind about buying one of these cars. I'm staying away. No one should have to lift the engine or remove engine parts in order to change sparkplugs. Stupidity of some designs amazes me.
Man you sound like Jeff Gordon.
Jimmy Brock I was born in California and grew up in North Carolina.
I actually though he got Jeff Gordon to do the voice over at first. Lol
Take a drink every time he says "reach around"
Lol funny
interesting, but my subaru 2011 is a little diferent, spark plug size and positions
FYI- Link to the plug. Check fitment through Amazon and they say they're the wrong plug for the 2.5L Subaru.
IRQVET i’ll check into it thank you for filling me in.
After i replace a sparkplug , check engine light is showing on how to reset the check engine light?
You need a scanner. If it was not on before doing the spark plugs something got left unplugged. The scanner will help you find that out. Auto parts stores will do it free for you if you take it there.
Suddenly a boxer engine sucks. Takes me 2 minutes to change plugs on a Honda. I have oil on cylinder 2 on a 2015 Outback with misfire. I checked engine codes.
Very helpful video including the details. Thanks.
Good video Brian👍
Darwin W thank you!
FOR 2016 SUBARU LEGACY 2.5L
-It's not necessary to remove the entire air filter system . Only the Air filter housing on the left side.
t's also not necessary to remove the spark plug boot from the wire. On the 2016 the boot is held in by a metal clip which is hell to get on and off.
On driver side of the 2016 I had to remove the battery and the battery housing to access spark plugs. Even with engine jacked up you can't get you hands down to the spark plug to work.
-I did remove the engine mount bolts and jack up the engine but I feel like that wasn't necessary on the 2016. It's a major hassel because the 2016 has a undercarraige cover sucks taking off. Jacking up the engine on my 16 didn't do much. I still have to remove the battery and battery housing.