Spruecutters,tweezers,you will use most,if good quality will last for years,so saves money to buy right once.Replacing cheap tool's soon adds up,and never ending.G/L
You are by far the most charismatic UA-cam model-er on the internet with perhaps the exception of Duncan from Games Workshop. But Duncan is a two-bit sell out so you win.
The value of your information in this video is incredible. People just beginning this hobby owe you for your exceptional video quality and super valuable info. Many thanks.
I play Bolt Action, and I absolutely LOVE your videos! You have helped me so much from how to approach a paint-job, to weathering, to details. As soon as I get paid again, I'm going to be a Patreon. You've helped me so much, and I get a big-head each time I put down a new tank or armoured vehicle on the table, from folks' picking it up and sometimes passing it around! I always say, "Look-up Nightshift. On UA-cam! the guy is a Pro!" lol Keep modelling man! Be Safe brother.
Another great tutorial Martin. Keep em coming. I think acrylics could make a quick and durable base layer for further earth effects. Thanks for sharing!
You, sir, are one woke individual. You understood the point of this mixture perfectly - quick to work with, fast to dry, and durable like nothing else! And it doesn't smell bad, that's another pro. I honestly don't see any cons with this technique, that's why I'm woke as well and use it most of the time :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels Honestly I don't use acrylics for weathering. I usually go with oils as a base followed by pigments in wet and dry form. But the oils take forever to cure permanent and pigments aren't durable and, only used at a final touch. I see lots of potential in your method for those of us who like to build layer upon layer. I will try it on my next build. Thanks again mate
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yes sir Martin. I completely agree. The quick dry time allows for quick build up. Subtle or higher opacity depending on the needs. I'm Jon and look forward to further chat!
@@gtojon2000 Hey Jon, exactly and they can be always adjusted with an extra layer of enamels or pigments if necessary. Like I said, acrylics are really good.
' It's clean and wet'... I just died laughing. I totally buy your sense of humour and your modeling skills of course. Thanks for the effort you put in those videos; inspiration and fun in one place. Cheers!
I guess the soap breaks surface tension, like the flow aid or the acrylic thinner every miniature painter (who has never followed scale model painting) uses, yet if you use enamels, the thinning mineral spirits do the trick... very interesting and useful video, thank you!
Got those colours, got some spare bottles, got the soap, water, not a problem. Going to give this a go. Great tip, will put this to some use. Hope you don't mind me giving you a tip..... When taking the lid off a jar that is a bit stiff, put you pliers on the other way around, it's a whole lot easier. You had them on for clockwise direction....... lol
Dude, you do a fantastic job with your videos. Great instructional content mixed with liberal doses of humor. That makes them informative and entertaining! Keep up the amazing work and I'm looking forward to your future productions!
your videos are amazing, the only other scale modeling channel i think is the same league is plasmo. keep up the good work, i'm sure your subscriber count will grow!
Oh god, when I was new to airbrushing and tried to clean out my airbrush with water after using Tamiya paints. That was a fun afternoon pulling the gunk out of every crevice......
So Uncle Night Shift also conveys basic physical laws... soap in water = surface tension of water bye bye... I'm just pretending to have known that before, but now a few things are becoming clear to me. Diluting colors with window cleaner works well... not so much with water... now I understand why... Thank you dear Uncle Night Shift 🙂
Got my first Rust pigment harvest from some wire wool in a jar with white vinegar,after 6months.But was having the same issue with water turning it to 'sludge',i'd never have considered detergent,i tried W&N mineral spirit and failed.Great video,cheers mate.
About 3 yrs ago i saw a 'Make your own 'Cheap' rust pigment.On Daves Model workshop.As 'rust' pigment was only £3 i wasnt interested.But after looking at a plate of rusty nail's,washers and screws in shed,i noticed how many variations of colour there was.So i got a few types of wire wool in jars with vinegar,some i left longer than others.Then ground it in little batches and mixed with water,but got that 'clumping' that i think detergent should help with.Letting it slide and settle better.Used the 'rust' with water on Halftrack flakvierling chassis and will try with detergent/water on \35 88mm Flak 36 carraige and mount.See if it works.I usually use oil paint and mineral spirits or Zippo fuel for rusting.But for texture as well,unrefined Iron oxide pigment with detergent,should perform better than well refined pigment in linseed oil.Fingers crossed.
Perfektne videa, narazil som na nich uplne nahodou. Rataju sa mi aj tie srandicky -kecy okolo. Podstatne vymakanejsia a pocuvatelnejsia anglictina ako napr. plasmo - tam to je des, ale zase ma tiez vybornu kvalitu modelov. V zhliadnutiach sa sice na neho nechytas zatial ale mozno ked vydrzis s videjkami tak to pojde hore. Drzim palce.
When transferring paint, I use a drinking straw, dip it into the paint, pop your finger over the end, and release finger when paint is in the right pace.
I've been making mine using vallejo acrylics, water and a little bit of tamiya acrylic thinner, but not enough to make the vallejo stuff curdle, just enough to add a little bit of surface tension and make it smooth out
Why didn't I find this channel sooner? Awesome tutorials! You deserve a lot more subscribers. Thank you and keep the videos coming, they are brilliant and so is your humour! 👍
Look into getting Mr.Color Jar Opener. Definitely better than a wrench even if stupidly expensive for a piece of plastic. Fits just fine on Tamiya bottles.
I'm an Eastern European Slav. We open jars with pipe wrenches, vices, power grinders, chainsaws, bricks and everything in between that we can find in our Babushka's backyard.
Stumbled across your vids and love them mate! Very instructional and funny also. Fantastic learning resource and your vids have me getting back into modelling after 40+ years. Great bro, just great!
This is an awesome tip!!! Thanks for sharing. If possible, could you please do a weathering tutorial on desert coloured tanks? I have given up on them, because it always looks terrible when I do it. Green or dark colour tanks are fine for me, though. Your videos are the best. Keep up the good work.
I made some after your Char video and I've been playing around with it some. I was wanting to ask how you'd make a lighter version and glad to see you covered it in this one
@@NightShiftScaleModels I like it! I normally use Humbrol enamels as the base dust layer, airbrushing on then blending them with thinner and then using a similar Lifecolor shade to make stronger more dense areas in places like corners and around details. But I really like the way this darkens with the wet & damp effects like you show in the Char B series. I've always had a hard time making the damp patches actually look damp and not just like a darker color of mud. This does it naturally.
Love your approach, I did that a few times and felt like a true artist while doing so. The only issue is, like you said, it's impossible to make good looking water patches and rain marks over a surface like that. Only pigments and Tamiya paints work like that AFAIK.
Someone's getting more and more popular!! Congratulation, it's well deserved! :) I can wait to see what have you done with that "Nippon steel" monster.
Some people in the comments pointed out their water doesn't behave like that, which leaves me quite mind blown, so I'd say try it with regular water first and if doesn't work, you know what to do next :)
Absolutely love your modelling work and videos mate, educational and entertaining 10/10. Found your channel just in time for my first entry into historical tanks and inspiration is at all time high.
Para abrir los botes de pintura Tamiya aplicar calor en el tapon durante un par de minutos con un secador o bajo el chorro de agua caliente del grifo y se abrirá sin esfuerzo. To open Tamiya paint cans apply heat to the cap for a couple of minutes with a hair dryer or under running hot water from the tap and it will open effortlessly.
Do you have a channel or profile on some other sort of social media where you post videos or photos of other tanks you have built? You have a lot of cutaways of very high quality models in your videos, and your channel is very new and only has a few videos.
Nice as always. It comes in handy that using water works some kind of ordinary paint with retarder, but as I think its better to be used with brushes. For tamiya and other spirit-based paints much cheaper solution instead of original thinners could be using isopropyl alcohol or 646 thinner (well I don't sure if the markings are same for Europe) and they dry faster, which makes them better for airbrush in my eyes.
I used IPA for Tamiya paints back in the day but found them drying too fast and creating orange peel surface. Now I think the best lacquer thinner is Mr. Color Thinner. But keep in mind those wouldn't work for this mixture, because if you brush-painted them like that, it would dissolve the base coat!
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yep, forgot to mention that it can destroy previous levels of pain if its used with ordinary brush. And here comes the joke about India Pale Ale))
lololol, ACTUALLY a few years ago I was talking to one of my modelling friends and he was saying how he uses IPA for brush cleaning and I didn't want to look dumb but deep inside I kept wondering why would anyone clean their paintbrushes with hipster beer
Nice, very helpful, just yesterday I was cleaning my working space.... and I got read of sow many Tamiya bottles... now I understand their potential😧😵😭
Thank you once more Martin. As for paint choice. I know are using Tamya and you stated before that you like it because it’s mate finish. My understanding of Tamiya paint is that it is an alcohol base. Maybe I have my facts wrong. Do you know if I would get the same result with Vallejo or citadel paint?
That's the funny part. Vallejo paints are more rubbery and therefore don't create the same natural looking gritty dust finish. At least I didn't have luck achieving it. I've seen a Char B1 weathered only with Vallejos and the results were mind blowing... but it was a long time ago. I've had the best results with Tamiyas, so that's why I'm talking about them all the time on this channel :)
Hello Night Shift! I love your videos and have subbed to your channel! I have a question. I'm a beginner at modelling / coloring etc and was wondering if you mabye could make a video showing us "newbies" what steps to do? Like: Primer Base Coat Varnish Filter I dont know which way you do it but it would be an awesome and helpful video.
Hey mate, I'd suggest you watch one of my complete painting series, either the Ball tank or Char B1, or the upcoming Type 5 Chi-Ri. My process is always very similar in terms of which technique comes first etc. That can help you get some ideas on where to start. Also, nice 2B pic!
Is the soap trick only important for Tamiya? For example, would simply heavily thinning a Vallejo or Lifecolor paint with water (and maybe medium) also work?
To open seized Tamiya bottles, you can turn bottle upside down, drip LT or AC into the crack, wait a few mins with the bottle upside down and use a small screwdriver to slightly lift the sides of the lid away from the glass. Voila, open.
Your channel is so amazing ! Enjoy watching your vids and learn new tips ! Could you please clarify what's in the light purple bottle ? The rain mix looks awesome
Hi there, I'd like to put some bounced tank shell effects onto my jagdtigers frontal armour but am unsure how to go about this. I was going to stick a block of plastic behind and drill through into it. Any better suggestions?
Rotary tool with a ball tip should work better, as it will only grind away small amount of plastic in a circular shape. It's more complicated than that, but I'll do a video about it.
So who's now gonna start painting dust using acrylic paints?
Well I may have to give it a try now :)
Also, holy shite, you're almost at 7000 subs :D
I’ll give it a shot... 😀
Dude your videos are good but are you giving out gold samples? Your sub count is insane. Way to go!
It's all thanks to that previous video :D
He's got bags of character.
My man It'sAgundam
What the hell?
Found this channel about two hours ago, already watched all of the videos and in the process of buying a armoured model I think I’m addicted already
Spruecutters,tweezers,you will use most,if good quality will last for years,so saves money to buy right once.Replacing cheap tool's soon adds up,and never ending.G/L
"it's clean and wet". The new tap water slogan. Coming this fall
“Speaking of our planet - XF-52 Flat Earth....” I see what you did there 🤣
Me too. Of course our planet is flat, because every other object in observable universe is spherical, don't you all get it?...
You are by far the most charismatic UA-cam model-er on the internet with perhaps the exception of Duncan from Games Workshop. But Duncan is a two-bit sell out so you win.
"What did we learn today? Water - bad, soapy water - good!"
Sounds like it's time to make some tea.
The value of your information in this video is incredible. People just beginning this hobby owe you for your exceptional video quality and super valuable info. Many thanks.
Uncle Night Shift is AWESOME ! He has helped me improve my armor modeling skills. I look forward t every video .
I play Bolt Action, and I absolutely LOVE your videos! You have helped me so much from how to approach a paint-job, to weathering, to details. As soon as I get paid again, I'm going to be a Patreon. You've helped me so much, and I get a big-head each time I put down a new tank or armoured vehicle on the table, from folks' picking it up and sometimes passing it around! I always say, "Look-up Nightshift. On UA-cam! the guy is a Pro!" lol Keep modelling man! Be Safe brother.
I added a drop of flow improver instead of soap. It works well too :)
I totally enjoy your videos, because the good humor and the great tutorial values it contains..Thanks for sharing.!
You even weathered the pipe wrench! Now that's dedication! ;)
Once again, YOU'RE AWESOME !! this could not have come at a better time, and you could not have explained or shown this any clearer. Thank you :)
That's so awesome to hear! Thank you!
Another great tutorial Martin. Keep em coming. I think acrylics could make a quick and durable base layer for further earth effects. Thanks for sharing!
You, sir, are one woke individual. You understood the point of this mixture perfectly - quick to work with, fast to dry, and durable like nothing else! And it doesn't smell bad, that's another pro. I honestly don't see any cons with this technique, that's why I'm woke as well and use it most of the time :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels Honestly I don't use acrylics for weathering. I usually go with oils as a base followed by pigments in wet and dry form. But the oils take forever to cure permanent and pigments aren't durable and, only used at a final touch. I see lots of potential in your method for those of us who like to build layer upon layer. I will try it on my next build. Thanks again mate
@@gtojon2000 acrylics are great because as you layer them on top of each other, the previous layer is already dry when you start adding another one
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yes sir Martin. I completely agree. The quick dry time allows for quick build up. Subtle or higher opacity depending on the needs. I'm Jon and look forward to further chat!
@@gtojon2000 Hey Jon, exactly and they can be always adjusted with an extra layer of enamels or pigments if necessary. Like I said, acrylics are really good.
' It's clean and wet'... I just died laughing. I totally buy your sense of humour and your modeling skills of course. Thanks for the effort you put in those videos; inspiration and fun in one place. Cheers!
I guess the soap breaks surface tension, like the flow aid or the acrylic thinner every miniature painter (who has never followed scale model painting) uses, yet if you use enamels, the thinning mineral spirits do the trick... very interesting and useful video, thank you!
Just started trying this out instead of pigments. I really hate pigments. Keep up the great vids.
I like how you explain things clearly. You deserve more subscribers.
Thank you!
That "10 out of 10" part cracked me up 😂
Try using a hairdryer next time you encounter a stubborn Tamiya lid. Works like a charm, plus it doesn't make the lids look like trash!
Got those colours, got some spare bottles, got the soap, water, not a problem. Going to give this a go. Great tip, will put this to some use.
Hope you don't mind me giving you a tip..... When taking the lid off a jar that is a bit stiff, put you pliers on the other way around, it's a whole lot easier. You had them on for clockwise direction....... lol
Thanks for the tip! From now on I'm just gonna try to keep my bottles clean so they'll be easy to open at any point.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Your welcome...... Now carry on with the good work. Very enjoyable videos, something for everyone 👍🏻
Killer soapy chocolate milk recipe, thank you perfect time for the holidays!
Some of the best tips ever and given in such an entertaining way 👏
Dude, you do a fantastic job with your videos. Great instructional content mixed with liberal doses of humor. That makes them informative and entertaining! Keep up the amazing work and I'm looking forward to your future productions!
your videos are amazing, the only other scale modeling channel i think is the same league is plasmo. keep up the good work, i'm sure your subscriber count will grow!
thanks a lot!
Perfect timing as I'm weathering a model this weekend. Great video as always!
ISU with that big fat gun? :) Loving it mate.
@01:30 I usually drop a little bit of thinner into the gap between the cap and the bottle, wait for a little and then It'll come loose again.
Oh god, when I was new to airbrushing and tried to clean out my airbrush with water after using Tamiya paints. That was a fun afternoon pulling the gunk out of every crevice......
Thanks for the video. I made my own sand wash for Tunisia camo styles and am really happy with the results. Cheers!
You inspire me to do better , thank you for sharing
You. Are. the MAN my dude.
Another great tutorial! Thank you very much - they are not only informative but also enjoyable. Love what you are doing with the channel!
thanks a lot!
The way you fill the jar with the brush, you get soap in your brand new paints! That cant be good, right? Love your vids, keep them coming!
I think it was a different brush, or I thoroughly cleaned it in water :D I wouldn't risk ruining them for sure!
And if you mean dipping it in the soapy mixture and then in the paint, I did it several times in the past and luckily everything was fine!
Night Shift that was what i was refering to. Just a small amount of soap and the paint could behave differently. Some extra bubbles in the airbrush?😏
you’re giving me new video ideas, you know that? 😅
@@NightShiftScaleModels 🤣looking forward to that!
I’d like to see a tutorial on dusting vehicles, fixing the pigments etc! Loving the videos 👍🏼
Sometimes hot water, lid down wait few minutes and it should open. Keep up the great modelling
Continue to find you fun and entertaining but still lots of great tips and techniques! Keep up the great work!
So Uncle Night Shift also conveys basic physical laws... soap in water = surface tension of water bye bye... I'm just pretending to have known that before, but now a few things are becoming clear to me. Diluting colors with window cleaner works well... not so much with water... now I understand why... Thank you dear Uncle Night Shift 🙂
Thank you for sharing, the dish soap tip will stop the lumpy goop that happens in the past.
Yup, turns out it depends a lot on water... Spanish and US water apparently doesn't do this :D
Love your technique videos and will have to mix up a batch of rain marks tonight. Thanks a million!
I really like your modelling style, and I'm going to try your secret recipe on a Gundam right now. Thanks for sharing and cheers from Spain
You sir are the master. I'm sure AK is already trying to sell their own mix now haha
Got my first Rust pigment harvest from some wire wool in a jar with white vinegar,after 6months.But was having the same issue with water turning it to 'sludge',i'd never have considered detergent,i tried W&N mineral spirit and failed.Great video,cheers mate.
Is.... real rust meant to be used like that?
About 3 yrs ago i saw a 'Make your own 'Cheap' rust pigment.On Daves Model workshop.As 'rust' pigment was only £3 i wasnt interested.But after looking at a plate of rusty nail's,washers and screws in shed,i noticed how many variations of colour there was.So i got a few types of wire wool in jars with vinegar,some i left longer than others.Then ground it in little batches and mixed with water,but got that 'clumping' that i think detergent should help with.Letting it slide and settle better.Used the 'rust' with water on Halftrack flakvierling chassis and will try with detergent/water on \35 88mm Flak 36 carraige and mount.See if it works.I usually use oil paint and mineral spirits or Zippo fuel for rusting.But for texture as well,unrefined Iron oxide pigment with detergent,should perform better than well refined pigment in linseed oil.Fingers crossed.
Perfektne videa, narazil som na nich uplne nahodou. Rataju sa mi aj tie srandicky -kecy okolo. Podstatne vymakanejsia a pocuvatelnejsia anglictina ako napr. plasmo - tam to je des, ale zase ma tiez vybornu kvalitu modelov. V zhliadnutiach sa sice na neho nechytas zatial ale mozno ked vydrzis s videjkami tak to pojde hore. Drzim palce.
When transferring paint, I use a drinking straw, dip it into the paint, pop your finger over the end, and release finger when paint is in the right pace.
You are a hoot...love the ease of your explanations.I think your info will help me dust acrylic and Goush paintings thanks.
I've been making mine using vallejo acrylics, water and a little bit of tamiya acrylic thinner, but not enough to make the vallejo stuff curdle, just enough to add a little bit of surface tension and make it smooth out
Why didn't I find this channel sooner? Awesome tutorials! You deserve a lot more subscribers. Thank you and keep the videos coming, they are brilliant and so is your humour! 👍
Thanks a lot and welcome!
Look into getting Mr.Color Jar Opener. Definitely better than a wrench even if stupidly expensive for a piece of plastic. Fits just fine on Tamiya bottles.
I'm an Eastern European Slav. We open jars with pipe wrenches, vices, power grinders, chainsaws, bricks and everything in between that we can find in our Babushka's backyard.
Nice video. Can you do a tutorial on burned out/destroyed effects. Specifically Armor. Not much info out their on doing that
Very nice! TEN OUT OF TEN!
Stumbled across your vids and love them mate! Very instructional and funny also. Fantastic learning resource and your vids have me getting back into modelling after 40+ years. Great bro, just great!
This is an awesome tip!!! Thanks for sharing. If possible, could you please do a weathering tutorial on desert coloured tanks? I have given up on them, because it always looks terrible when I do it. Green or dark colour tanks are fine for me, though.
Your videos are the best. Keep up the good work.
They told me to do my own research - and I did! This video PROVES Flat Earth is real.
I died laughing when you opened the bottle of German Grey and found it dry. The MGS alert tone was perfect LOL
I made some after your Char video and I've been playing around with it some. I was wanting to ask how you'd make a lighter version and glad to see you covered it in this one
Nice! How do you like this technique compared to other, like enamel or pigments?
@@NightShiftScaleModels I like it! I normally use Humbrol enamels as the base dust layer, airbrushing on then blending them with thinner and then using a similar Lifecolor shade to make stronger more dense areas in places like corners and around details. But I really like the way this darkens with the wet & damp effects like you show in the Char B series. I've always had a hard time making the damp patches actually look damp and not just like a darker color of mud. This does it naturally.
Love your approach, I did that a few times and felt like a true artist while doing so. The only issue is, like you said, it's impossible to make good looking water patches and rain marks over a surface like that. Only pigments and Tamiya paints work like that AFAIK.
Nigh shift you can use a litlle glycerin in the mixure to extend the drying time!
Thank you for the video, I will be suing this method on my ECTO-1
I rate this technique a *TEN OUT OF TEN* as I smash my computer screen, very nice
RIP screen. Thanks!
I think that a tutorial on how to do a filter would be great as im totally unaware about what a filter is, thank you.
Noted!
Been making my own washes for years, acrylic paint and windex
It's decided, I'm gonna replace all my metric and imperial measurement with brush loads. I just have to figure out the conversion ratio.
If you have a tan-ish vehicle, would you start with a light grey and then the dark steel to give it depth?
Great technique I’ll definitely have to try fiddling around with this. Another cracking piece of work.
Thanks Scott, definitely worth trying it out!
I don't believe in XF-52 LOL
I see what you did there ;) nice one
Someone's getting more and more popular!! Congratulation, it's well deserved! :)
I can wait to see what have you done with that "Nippon steel" monster.
Thanks! That Nippon sensha will be subarashii!
Awesomeness......again!! My Martin fix for this week....need this daily ;-)
Wish that were possible, but unfortunately each video takes hours to produce :) Thank you
Cool info with dish soap, Thanks!
Some people in the comments pointed out their water doesn't behave like that, which leaves me quite mind blown, so I'd say try it with regular water first and if doesn't work, you know what to do next :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels I will try ;)
Really love this kind of tutorials :-)
Absolutely love your modelling work and videos mate, educational and entertaining 10/10. Found your channel just in time for my first entry into historical tanks and inspiration is at all time high.
Excellent video. Any chance of doing blue heat on metal affects
raw weld beads, or heat affected tank muffler. that’s the best I can do 😁
Para abrir los botes de pintura Tamiya aplicar calor en el tapon durante un par de minutos con un secador o bajo el chorro de agua caliente del grifo y se abrirá sin esfuerzo.
To open Tamiya paint cans apply heat to the cap for a couple of minutes with a hair dryer or under running hot water from the tap and it will open effortlessly.
YES!!! Thanks a lot you, might've helped me solve the mixture problem I've been having...
Do you have a channel or profile on some other sort of social media where you post videos or photos of other tanks you have built? You have a lot of cutaways of very high quality models in your videos, and your channel is very new and only has a few videos.
I have an instagram profile where I post my models. Link is in the description of this video.
Nice as always. It comes in handy that using water works some kind of ordinary paint with retarder, but as I think its better to be used with brushes. For tamiya and other spirit-based paints much cheaper solution instead of original thinners could be using isopropyl alcohol or 646 thinner (well I don't sure if the markings are same for Europe) and they dry faster, which makes them better for airbrush in my eyes.
I used IPA for Tamiya paints back in the day but found them drying too fast and creating orange peel surface. Now I think the best lacquer thinner is Mr. Color Thinner. But keep in mind those wouldn't work for this mixture, because if you brush-painted them like that, it would dissolve the base coat!
@@NightShiftScaleModels Yep, forgot to mention that it can destroy previous levels of pain if its used with ordinary brush.
And here comes the joke about India Pale Ale))
lololol, ACTUALLY a few years ago I was talking to one of my modelling friends and he was saying how he uses IPA for brush cleaning and I didn't want to look dumb but deep inside I kept wondering why would anyone clean their paintbrushes with hipster beer
Nice, very helpful, just yesterday I was cleaning my working space.... and I got read of sow many Tamiya bottles... now I understand their potential😧😵😭
they’re the most luxurious paint bottles!
7.000... your stellar my night shift friend!!😁😁😁 Way to go!!
Being a night owl has been paying off quite well recently! It's absolutely incredible and I'm one grateful individual for that!
Nice. You have very interesting way of making the channel. And that methot is also very interesting. All the best for You! ;)
Just love your style Martin ....... regards Fred
Impressive video once again.
You can also create very realistic dust effects by leaving models on your workbench for a few months ;)
Yes, but the scale might be an issue 🤔
Love your videos man! Can we get a 3 tone ambush camo king tiger now 😁😁
Great idea. I will try this!!!
Thank you once more Martin. As for paint choice. I know are using Tamya and you stated before that you like it because it’s mate finish. My understanding of Tamiya paint is that it is an alcohol base. Maybe I have my facts wrong. Do you know if I would get the same result with Vallejo or citadel paint?
That's the funny part. Vallejo paints are more rubbery and therefore don't create the same natural looking gritty dust finish. At least I didn't have luck achieving it. I've seen a Char B1 weathered only with Vallejos and the results were mind blowing... but it was a long time ago. I've had the best results with Tamiyas, so that's why I'm talking about them all the time on this channel :)
Ok thank you. I will order Tamiya just wanted to double check since my paint collection is already extensive but do not include Tamiya product
Hello Night Shift! I love your videos and have subbed to your channel!
I have a question. I'm a beginner at modelling / coloring etc and was wondering if you mabye could make a video showing us "newbies" what steps to do?
Like:
Primer
Base Coat
Varnish
Filter
I dont know which way you do it but it would be an awesome and helpful video.
Hey mate, I'd suggest you watch one of my complete painting series, either the Ball tank or Char B1, or the upcoming Type 5 Chi-Ri. My process is always very similar in terms of which technique comes first etc. That can help you get some ideas on where to start.
Also, nice 2B pic!
Loving the videos, and the bloopers!!
Thanks!
Is the soap trick only important for Tamiya? For example, would simply heavily thinning a Vallejo or Lifecolor paint with water (and maybe medium) also work?
just a question the mixture should be in one homogenized mixture and no settling of the pigments on the bottom of the bottle?
Nice quick tutorial. Any obvious advantages of this over enamel weathering products?
Thanks! Yes TONS of them. I'm talking about it more in depth in that Char B1 video.
Love your videos informative and very entertaining!
Thanks!
True weathering revolution
Not really, but it's one of the lesser known techniques!
This is the tutorial I wanted, nice mate! Seems that my Jagdtiger gonna be a Watertiger that is...jaging?! Okeeey...forget this lol
Is that the Porsche type jagdtiger?
@@darronhedges5873 Yess it's
Are you going to use PE upgrade?
@@darronhedges5873 I did it..but in 1/72 it's a big challenge
\72 you are a hero,i went down to \48 cockpit detailing,and that was hard enough.
To open seized Tamiya bottles, you can turn bottle upside down, drip LT or AC into the crack, wait a few mins with the bottle upside down and use a small screwdriver to slightly lift the sides of the lid away from the glass. Voila, open.
Your channel is so amazing ! Enjoy watching your vids and learn new tips ! Could you please clarify what's in the light purple bottle ? The rain mix looks awesome
hi, what is the stuff in the tamiya bottle at 2:07 time clock.it is some kind of dishes cleaner !?
Yup dish cleaner
thanks for your answer, as a german i do not understand all time the langugae,that was the reason for asking!!!ACES!!!
Hi there, I'd like to put some bounced tank shell effects onto my jagdtigers frontal armour but am unsure how to go about this. I was going to stick a block of plastic behind and drill through into it. Any better suggestions?
Rotary tool with a ball tip should work better, as it will only grind away small amount of plastic in a circular shape.
It's more complicated than that, but I'll do a video about it.
@@NightShiftScaleModels thanks, I'll put my model on hold until the video is out! Have some more to work on in the meantime
Awesome tutorials and great presentations. Wish You all the best and 100.000 subs !!!
Thank you! Hopefully one day!
Hello there ! Simple question, had you tried to use it in airbrush ?
You can't weather tanks with JELLO! Soap to the rescue! I love it.
Amazing..I'd like to make a skin wash like the Army Painter...which is hard to find..just a suggestion for your next video ;)
Awww yeah it's time for a new vid. You might try using a hair dryer on high to loosen those bottle tops. It's a little easier than a wrench 😎
Why go small, I'll use a heat gun!
@@NightShiftScaleModels now you're talking
Love the vids could you show us how you make battle damage ie round hits and machine gun hits thanks
sure mate!