Roy, great video. I have a few tips for you, first, because one edge of the design overlaps the other, I think you only need to add the SEAM HIDING image to one side of the image, not both sides, if done correctly having a hard edge line and drop shadow, that is all you need. The second tip has to do with the 24" metal straight edge, sometimes when making a cut the straight edge will slip or move on you, and the cut may be off. So, have several straight edges from 12" all the way up to 58" long, and I use adhesive-backed cork or felt on the backside of the straight edges to grip whatever I place them on so the straight edge does NOT slip (move) when making a cut and ruin the artwork.
Jon, great tips! I often only make the seam on one side, but if I have a drop shadow that’s pronounced and I want that look on each side, the only way to have that shadow on both sides of the final seam is to flip it and put a seam (with the shadow) on both sides. Yes, part of one of the sides will be cut off, but the shadow will remain. And I have had the ruler slip a couple of times, so I’ve learned to hold it down well when I cut. I also try to only slightly push against the ruler. I was leaning against a cork back, partly because I like being able to ever so slightly slide the ruler to exactly where I want it, but it sure would help to keep that thing from sliding around, and that’s a great tip for anyone using a ruler! Thank you!
Hello, boy am i glad to found your video. I started sublimation on 20 ounce tumblers around November for Christmas with convection oven, and let me tell ya out of 25 tumblers i had maybe 5 with good seam. my problem is I do not have a sublimation printer so i buy from other source, So Iam trying again i may buy a tumbler press, I have trouble with getting the seam tight, Maybe I don't have enough strength in my hands to pull tight enough. But here i go again. I did like your video. thanks for the tips
Sandy, thanks so much for watching! Do you have a convection oven? If so, check out my earlier video about subbing from start to finish. It uses a convection oven and shrink wrap. I’ve found that if I wrap the paper really flat and tape the seam really good, I have less trouble with seams using a press, so I do recommend them. BUT, please don’t get a knockoff from Amazon or eBay. You run the risk of getting one that doesn’t work. I recommend Heat Press Nation or Pro World. They’re more expensive, but you get a good product with a company that backs their product up. There are other good ones, but I just don’t know which ones. Join our Facebook group and ask. I know a few folks in the group have different presses they like. Thanks again for watching!
Awesome idea!! Can you do this in other programs like Inkscape? How do you get good seams for bigger tumblers that you print and have to seam together because of a printer that can’t to do bigger than 8.5x11?
I’m sure you can do this in Inkscape, although I’ve not tried it. Any program that will give you the option of creating a rectangle of the size you choose and the ability to color it in should work. I know with Photoshop Elements, I’m able to use the shadow and bevel tools to give it a great look. I haven’t tried to splice prints together to make a larger print…yet! When I do, I’ll be sure to make it into a video! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much! And I do sell my videos. Check them out here. (Insider hint…there will be a lot of them listed all day Monday and Monday only!!!) www.georgiamaes.com/digital-designs.html
Hey, yes, while Photoshop CC (the full version of Photoshop) is a monthly fee, Photoshop Elements is a one time cost. It’s $99 (and they usually have a sale for $69 toward the end of the year). The only thing I can’t do in Photoshop Elements is taper a design or skew objects, and I Rafaela have a need to do that. Thanks for watching!
Roy thanks a million you are truly amazing glad I found your Chanel great work love watching thumbs up 👍 thanks for always taking the time to always answer truly appreciate it 🥰
I bring together, then overlap! In all seriousness, I shoot for between 1/16” - 1/8” of image overlap, then I have an additional 1/16” - 1/8” white paper overlap. Thanks for watching!
Hey, Vanessa, my time and temp is the same for all colors. In an oven, I do 365 degrees for 4-1/2 minutes. In a press, I do 365 degrees, press for 50 seconds, rotate 180 degrees, press another 50 seconds, rotate 90 degrees, press for 20-25 seconds, rotate 180 degrees and press for a final 20-25 seconds. Check this video out for an oven ua-cam.com/video/eIPS9qICzkA/v-deo.html and this video for a press. ua-cam.com/video/yOqxHEZgPwk/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
I currently get my tumblers from here, but I’m waiting on my first shipment from a new supplier. As soon as I get them (any day now, I hope!), I’ll be doing an unboxing video and thoughts from that supplier! Thanks for watching! www.locustsub.com?service=ChloePeng
It’s called Photoshop Elements, a lite version of Photoshop by Adobe. (I save designs as a png, then I print from Preview, a Mac program.) Thanks for watching!
I started adding the solid seam line and it's PEEFECT!!!!! BECAUSE my overlap was insane!! So glad I found you!! NEW SUBSCRIBER ALERT ⚠️ 📢
That’s fantastic! Thanks for watching, and for subscribing!
New Subscriber…..I have learned so much from you…. Thank you ❤️
This video way out of my league, but thanks for sharing.You’re very talented.
You’re too kind. Once you start playing around, it becomes much easier. Trust me, if I can do it, anybody can!
Roy, great video. I have a few tips for you, first, because one edge of the design overlaps the other, I think you only need to add the SEAM HIDING image to one side of the image, not both sides, if done correctly having a hard edge line and drop shadow, that is all you need.
The second tip has to do with the 24" metal straight edge, sometimes when making a cut the straight edge will slip or move on you, and the cut may be off. So, have several straight edges from 12" all the way up to 58" long, and I use adhesive-backed cork or felt on the backside of the straight edges to grip whatever I place them on so the straight edge does NOT slip (move) when making a cut and ruin the artwork.
Jon, great tips! I often only make the seam on one side, but if I have a drop shadow that’s pronounced and I want that look on each side, the only way to have that shadow on both sides of the final seam is to flip it and put a seam (with the shadow) on both sides. Yes, part of one of the sides will be cut off, but the shadow will remain. And I have had the ruler slip a couple of times, so I’ve learned to hold it down well when I cut. I also try to only slightly push against the ruler. I was leaning against a cork back, partly because I like being able to ever so slightly slide the ruler to exactly where I want it, but it sure would help to keep that thing from sliding around, and that’s a great tip for anyone using a ruler! Thank you!
Another great video!!! I absolutely love your teaching style!
You’re so sweet! Thank you so much!
Super cool! We have those blanks too! Love your works!🥰
Thanks so much! And thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for sending this over!
Absolutely! I hope it helps!
My tumblers were good but now they are PERFECT! Thanks
That’s fantastic! I’m so glad!!! And thank you for watching!
Really good video what I been looking for to help me with seams and wraps. Thank you 😊
Thank you, Judy! And thanks for watching!
I always enjoy the information you provide. Thank you .
Thank you so much!
Hello, boy am i glad to found your video. I started sublimation on 20 ounce tumblers around November for Christmas with convection oven, and let me tell ya out of 25 tumblers i had maybe 5 with good seam. my problem is I do not have a sublimation printer so i buy from other source, So Iam trying again i may buy a tumbler press, I have trouble with getting the seam tight, Maybe I don't have enough strength in my hands to pull tight enough. But here i go again. I did like your video. thanks for the tips
Sandy, thanks so much for watching! Do you have a convection oven? If so, check out my earlier video about subbing from start to finish. It uses a convection oven and shrink wrap. I’ve found that if I wrap the paper really flat and tape the seam really good, I have less trouble with seams using a press, so I do recommend them. BUT, please don’t get a knockoff from Amazon or eBay. You run the risk of getting one that doesn’t work. I recommend Heat Press Nation or Pro World. They’re more expensive, but you get a good product with a company that backs their product up. There are other good ones, but I just don’t know which ones. Join our Facebook group and ask. I know a few folks in the group have different presses they like. Thanks again for watching!
Thank you I hate the seams and this great idea to help
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Congratulations 🎉 on 1k subscribers
Thanks so much!
Love this great 👍
Thanks so much, Marie! And thanks for watching!
Awesome idea!! Can you do this in other programs like Inkscape? How do you get good seams for bigger tumblers that you print and have to seam together because of a printer that can’t to do bigger than 8.5x11?
I’m sure you can do this in Inkscape, although I’ve not tried it. Any program that will give you the option of creating a rectangle of the size you choose and the ability to color it in should work. I know with Photoshop Elements, I’m able to use the shadow and bevel tools to give it a great look. I haven’t tried to splice prints together to make a larger print…yet! When I do, I’ll be sure to make it into a video! Thanks for watching!
Hi love your videos, just getting into sublimation, well wait to get my toys in hehehehehe. Any chance do you sell your designs. Thanks
Thanks so much! And I do sell my videos. Check them out here. (Insider hint…there will be a lot of them listed all day Monday and Monday only!!!) www.georgiamaes.com/digital-designs.html
Hi Roy I have a question on the Adobe photoshop elements is that something I can purchase a one time fee or you need to pay monthly.
Hey, yes, while Photoshop CC (the full version of Photoshop) is a monthly fee, Photoshop Elements is a one time cost. It’s $99 (and they usually have a sale for $69 toward the end of the year). The only thing I can’t do in Photoshop Elements is taper a design or skew objects, and I Rafaela have a need to do that. Thanks for watching!
Roy thanks a million you are truly amazing glad I found your Chanel great work love watching thumbs up 👍 thanks for always taking the time to always answer truly appreciate it 🥰
Do you overlap or bring together
I bring together, then overlap! In all seriousness, I shoot for between 1/16” - 1/8” of image overlap, then I have an additional 1/16” - 1/8” white paper overlap. Thanks for watching!
Hello what are your temperatures and times for the dark colors?
Hey, Vanessa, my time and temp is the same for all colors. In an oven, I do 365 degrees for 4-1/2 minutes. In a press, I do 365 degrees, press for 50 seconds, rotate 180 degrees, press another 50 seconds, rotate 90 degrees, press for 20-25 seconds, rotate 180 degrees and press for a final 20-25 seconds. Check this video out for an oven ua-cam.com/video/eIPS9qICzkA/v-deo.html and this video for a press. ua-cam.com/video/yOqxHEZgPwk/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
I appreciate your reply.. i am having trouble with darker images
Where do you purchase your tumblers?
I currently get my tumblers from here, but I’m waiting on my first shipment from a new supplier. As soon as I get them (any day now, I hope!), I’ll be doing an unboxing video and thoughts from that supplier! Thanks for watching! www.locustsub.com?service=ChloePeng
How much of an overlap do you do?
I try for 1/8” overlap, but sometimes it’s closer to 1/4”.
What editing program is this?
It’s called Photoshop Elements, a lite version of Photoshop by Adobe. (I save designs as a png, then I print from Preview, a Mac program.) Thanks for watching!