How to hook up a PWM (pulse width modulator) to control a trolling motor.
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- Опубліковано 24 лют 2022
- Easy install instructions for a PWM.
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Short & sweet ! Direct to subject, simple, quick and easy ! Thanks for the video, what seems to be complicated is now very simple !
Thanks for watching it and I’m glad it helps you out.
You sir would make a great teacher,great explanation with no excess bull -well done
Thank you for the very kind feedback. It means a lot knowing my video helps and is easy to follow.
This truly has been the most useful knowledge sharing pwm video I’ve seen so far. Thanks for y’all your help
Thank you, I appreciate you watching and the very kind feedback.
Very clear instruction, I have looked at others and you are short, on point, and easy to follow. Thanks
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback.
Hey man, your video was spot on Sir! It was the only part of my set up I didn’t understand .
Thank you
You’re welcome!! Thank you, for the wonderful feedback.
Exactly what I’ve been looking for! Thank you very much you’ve just earned another subscriber
Thank you, I appreciate all the support.
FANTASTIC explanation! Been fighting w/my 5 speed switch trying to figure out how to incorporate it. You saved my @$$ & a lot of frustration. Bravo, my friend!!
Thank you, I’m glad my video was able to help you out.
Only downside of pmw, is if you run full speed more then a few minutes they burn up. Ive gone through 3
If you’re buying anything lower than a 100amp there going to be if your running full speed for long distances they need a fan to keep them cool without the fan they get to hot and burn up.
Thanks so much for this video because I needed a step by step process.
You’re welcome. I appreciate you watching.
excellent video. i was hesitant about doing this mod but after watching this video im confident that this is my next mod.
Thank you!! Yes it’s really simple that’s why I created this video to show how simple it actually is. Others made it out to be rocket science.
Thank you for keeping it simple 👍👍
You’re welcome!! That was the purpose of the video to show it’s simple and isn’t rocket science. I appreciate you watching and thanks for the feedback.
The pwm with the fan is probably the way to go. That and making sure there is a 50a breaker switch between the battery and pwm will help in keeping the pwm from overheating or taking too much current and frying it. I bought a box that has a mounting plate that is perforated and raised off the floor of the box, so it will also help with cooling the pwm board in the box. I am going to swap out the rectangular rocker switch for a round one that is also a bit larger in size. Thank you for posting the videos because I have adopted some of what is in your videos on adding the hatches and motor to my Outlaw. I am going to be adding foot control steering to mine using stainless steel cable. Hoping to finish up today or tomorrow. I have been doing one or two portions of the project each day. Lots of frustration as I didn't set down and create a step by step guide. Many times I had to take stuff apart because I forgot to add a part...like putting my motor together with the pvc top and wiring loom...then realizing I had to slip the steering triangle down over the shaft. 🤪 I had to take apart my motor mount because after I got it on, realized the part the motor actually mounts to had to be bolted from underneath to the bracket that was sitting flush on the kayak and cutting board reinforcement. Doh! Let's not even talk about trying to solder 10AWG wiring with the soldering pen and then gun I bought. Scrapped that after multiple attempts and just spliced with butt connectors and heat shrink wire tubing. Fun stuff for sure. But, I should be able to easily solder the 22AWG wiring to the new rocker switch. The gun or pen should easily be able to heat that wiring up high enough to do the job.
I appreciate you watching the video. I also have a perception outlaw I’m building and yes you gotta have a plan for everything that is getting added. Good luck with finishing your build. Thanks for the comment.
Well done. Looking forward to your next video.
I’ll have it together soon thank you for watching.
Excellent video man. I’m going to be getting the same equipment as you for my pwm setup. Just need to figure out where to put it on my pwr 100
Just go sit in your seat and get a feel of where you would like it to be.
Awesome video!! You made it seem so much easier than what I thought it is! Lol
Thank you! That was the reason for making the video.
Great info very usefull and no messing around with talkinng that's not needed. I have one set up and have been using it for two years. My advice at this point of experiences with the SAE quick connections is they do not take alot of abuse before the legs inside break. This causes the wires to overheat and drop in efficiency with the motor. This problem was solved by adding locking trolling motor plugs to my ports of connections. Since addind this feature i have had zero problems . Before this i would have to change out the ports and SAE plug ends a couple times a season. Your video is what directed me to my install initally and i thank you for your efforts. I fish 4-6 days a week all season out of my yac for 10-12 hrs a day and my equipment get alot of abuse. So perhaps this may help someone avoid this situation in the future while still following your video thanks. AKA Frogman 🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸🇺🇲🇺🇲
Thank you for your feedback. I’ve never had issues with my SAE connectors, but thank you for the input. I appreciate your following and watching the video.
This is the best video on this subject on the internet! You made it too east, everyone else cuts up an ethernet cable and makes it hard to figure out what they're doing. Thank you
You’re welcome!! Thank you for watching and I appreciate the feedback that was the whole point to make hooking a PWM easy.
Great video, most others make it seem like rocket science
Thank you. That’s why I wanted to make this video, cause it’s really a simple hookup.
Very nice job explaining, keep up the great work.
Thank you!! I really appreciate great feedback.
Today.... Still the best video.👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks. I appreciate you watching.
Thank you. The explanation on the yellow and white wires was all I needed. I was so confused why the PWM only has +/- in and out and the motor has the white/yellow. Everything works. Much appreciated 🤙
You’re welcome!! I appreciate you watching.
Great video! Not many pwm videos
Thank you.
Thanks for the video. One thing I would suggest to everyone is to add a lanyard type kill switch. That way, if you fall out you Kayak wont motor off away from you.
I agree there needs to be one I didn’t mention it in this video it’s only to show how simple a PWM is to hook up. And thanks for watching and your feedback.
Thanks mate this video helped me setup my PWM with my kids electric car which originally was 1 6v motor and battery to 2 12v motors and 18v drill battery. Now I can adjust speed depending on who is driving and what terrain. The PWM I received had only Chinese words so this video helped translate the connections xD
I’m glad my video helped you out. I appreciate you watching and thanks for letting me know it did help you out.
When I built my pwm this video wasn’t available, so I had to figure out the Chinese connection labels myself. I used a Harbor Freight Tactical Ammo/Utility Box (SKU: 64113) to put the pwm in and put the controls and a small battery percentage meter under the flip top lid. It runs between the battery and the motor. Made up 8 gauge lines to connect it to the motor and the battery using repurposed car jumper
Cables.
@Canadarago at least you was able to get it done.
very clear and concise explanation.. thank u.. 🙏🏻👍🏻
You’re welcome, thanks for watching I appreciate the feedback.
Very helpful video, thank you. 👍🏻
You’re welcome thank you for the feedback and I appreciate you watching.
Been searching around for a useful video like this one! Thanks.
You’re welcome. What video was you asking if I could make?
@@334tacticaloutdoors what do you mean?
Great job ! 👍🏽
Thank you!! I appreciate you watching.
Great. Thank you!
You’re welcome!! I appreciate you watching.
Awesome video thanks
Thank you, I appreciate you watching.
Great info thanks for sharing
Thank you, I appreciate you watching.
Nice. I am going to make this. Thank you!
You’re welcome, I appreciate you watching.
I made this for my trolling motor. It works great. The only drawback is the tiny toggle switch they provide. I am looking for an alternative that I can exchange the toggle switch for. Everything else works great. I thank you for sharing this information. An additional note is the motor height on the Colorado pontoon is too high for my Minkota. I installed an oak transom and placed the metal motor mount in the center to enable the seat linked steering. The prop churned the water, drawing air and making much noise. This still moved the boat but is not optimal. I am now removing the motor mount to lower the motor height. In order to maintain the strength and stability I am laminating a secondary piece of oak at the center of the transom on the forward side of the board. This will permit the motor to sit about 3” deeper in the water. The total thickness at the area of attachment will be equal to the thickness of the board, 1”, plus the diameter of the frame pipe, 1”. The motor will attach and tighten to the laminated board with the screw down tighteners overlapping the pipe frame and the oak. I think this will do the trick.
@@alexdroban4312 yes that’s with is small for the 100amp PWM. Sounds like you’re doing great work. I appreciate you letting me know it worked for you. Thank you.
Good videos. I left the yellow and white wires available so iF the PWM quits can connect the battery to the motor wires and get back to the boat ramp without paddling all day.
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. Thanks for watching m.
Brilliant.👍
Thank you. I appreciate you watching.
simple to understand
That’s was the reason for the video. To make it simple for everyone.
good stuff ! I did this 10 years ago when my trolling motor's main board fried. what I could never figure out was how to get the steering motor to turn while the main trolling motor was on. its like it couldn't divert the power IDK
Thank you, See if this video will help you out.
ua-cam.com/video/JcMLp3NHjjk/v-deo.html
Thank's alot man
Your welcome. I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Bro seriously thank you for this! You have no idea how many videos I have watched and everyone acts like everyone is good with wires. Your video was the simplest video I have seen out of all the research I have done. I'm going to follow this step by step. I only have 1 question.. I have a 24lb thrust 12v watersnake trolling motor. Should I use 10 gauge wire or 8 gauge? I don't want it to overheat or fry it. Thanks for keeping it simple 👍🤙
You also got a new subscriber 🤙
To your question 8 gauge is always best to use. And thank you for enjoying the video that was the whole point in making it just to explain how simple it really is. Thank you for subscribing to the channel I appreciate all my subscribers.
@@334tacticaloutdoors perfect found some 8gauge power sockets on Amazon not exactly the same ones you used as those are only in 10 gauge but they should work just fine. Appreciate the replies brother you helped me out a bunch 🤙
You’re more than welcome, if have any other questions just let me know.
For 34lb watersnake motor, what size if the wire/socket i need to use?
Very informative vids, thanks! I understand why you want a waterproof box, but wouldn't the pwm with the fan just recirculate the heat in the watertight box?
Thank you. And yes even though it’s a waterproof box it still needs ventilation, I normally just use diagram grommets that I can remove to let air in but put back on to remain waterproof.
www.autozone.com/lighting/grommet/p/dorman-conduct-tite-1-2in-diaphragm-grommet/1078601_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ELC:19486091402&&CATARGETID=120054150001289080&CADevice=m&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVtRVf-iBIBLpPqQ4oyCrNWHk&gclid=CjwKCAjw5dqgBhBNEiwA7PryaJdSiR71R1ainStsbYdqpwKHfRG0iB--tH0w9lT_1XZPD9__36WzIxoCkf0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Awesome video and very informative! Would you need to incorporate a fuse breaker within that setup and if so where in-line would you install it?
Only if you want to install a fuse breaker and if you wanna add one put it on the red power wire between the PWM and trolling motor
@@334tacticaloutdoors what size fuse would you recommend for a 30lb 12v trolling motor?
@@oakgarage3834 I replied to your comment and didn’t tag you my apologies. A 60amp fuse breaker is what I would recommend, you can get one from Amazon for like $25 bucks.
Appreciate the video 🤙🏽
What type of battery are you running ?
I use a everstart agm deep cycle marine battery.
Thanks for your reply. Could I use an ESC on a 55lb thrust motor.
I don’t know why I went so big, but I think the amp draw has created challenges-your video is great. I am a new subscriber.
You’re welcome, Yes you should be able to use it on a 55lb motor without any issues just make sure you get 100-120amp. Thank you for subscribing.
Great explination and build. I Plan on making one based on Yours Easy to follow instructions and great explinations. My Question is . What cable connections did you put on your box to plug them in and unplug with. Can you post the link to them in the comments section. Thank You and You have really helped me with my first build for the Kayak I just ordered.
It’s 10 gauge SAE connections. Buy the 2 pack it’ll be male on one end and female on the other and you can cut them in half. Use the female on your PWM box and the one male can be from the battery and the other male can be from the trolling motor. I will see if I can update the this video and link them in the description. Thanks for watching.
I’ve added it in the description of the video now if you wanna just click the link.
I have seen videos suggesting you wire the plugs such that if the pwm fails, you can bypass it and plug the motor straight into your battery. Full power the instant you plug it in, but could save having to paddle back in the event of a pwm failure.
Like your video. Where did you get the project box. I like that box it looks good and makes a nice clean job. Thanks
Thank you, I got the box from Amazon
www.amazon.com/Zulkit-Waterproof-Electronic-Junction-Enclosure/dp/B07RT6NWTR?pd_rd_w=2bCMJ&content-id=amzn1.sym.70f850ae-ff80-43b3-b581-5ad293225e90&pf_rd_p=70f850ae-ff80-43b3-b581-5ad293225e90&pf_rd_r=GBNDNN8WJ96JZ94FBQ5G&pd_rd_wg=cja2C&pd_rd_r=bae49b80-e37c-4ddf-aa05-f38ce0fa2dba&pd_rd_i=B07RT6NWTR&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_aisles_rp_aisle_0_ttr_0_1_i
Ok. So I'm researching and your video came up. Very simple and clear. My question is, would this work with a Lithium battery? (😅)
Yea it will just follow all instructions for the lithium battery.
I wanted to run something by you regarding my PWM. I purchased the 100 Amp and my motor draws 58 Amps. I had to vent it to avoid overheating, but yesterday it shut down on my during a long move against the current. Very annoying and dangerous, I had to wait about 4 minutes and then it worked fine. It did shut down on my two more times before making it home. I was thinking of installing a switch similar to the marine battery switch I use for my two batteries so I can run through the PWM when I'm fishing or going slow and switch to directly to the motor when I'm on long runs where I'm going full speed. This would avoid the overheating of the PWM due to the speed and get me home. I was hoping you would have some imput on this crazy idea of mine. Thank you in advance!
What gauge wire are you using from the motor to the PWM? And also from the PWM to the battery?
@@334tacticaloutdoors I use 10 gauge for both
@@victorgatelljr.5753 the first thing I would recommend is using 8 gauge wire that should solve the over heating.
@@334tacticaloutdoors , Ok I'll try that. Thank you
@@victorgatelljr.5753 if you still have any issues after changing the wire let me know. But I’m pretty certain that’ll fix your issue.
By far the best video. I’ve watched a hundred different videos for this subject. Great job and thank you Sir
Thank you, I appreciate the wonderful feedback.
I am in the process of doing this and would love to have a conversation with ya via email, etc. if you’re up for it! Haha, just purchased the troller, next step is pwm and battery.
Email me at 334tactical@gmail.com
This is an excellent video. Thanks. I made a video on choosing a deep cycle marine battery for a trolling motor, and I noticed that you have a starter marine battery for this. Do you normally use that for your trolling motor, or were you just using that for this video?
Thank you. I was only using that for the purpose of this video. I use a 50ah ZPRO lithium battery for my trolling motor battery.
@@334tacticaloutdoors I figured. When I originally bought my trolling motor, I just added it to my Mercury starter battery--learned not to do that and felt like a dope.
@@JasonSipe16 yea you definitely can’t add it to a starting battery. We all have had our learning curves for sure.
I finally finished my complete wireless trolling motor video with pwm like yours. Hope you'll check it out (it's pretty long)!
@@JasonSipe16 I’ll definitely go check it out. That’s awesome you got it completed.
Hey buddy, square handguns are considered Assault Weapon’s in the Country of California but I like your idea for your rubber band gun case. COOL… USA USA USA 🇺🇸 🌎
Thank you, I can’t believe some of the laws out there that’s crazy. I appreciate you watching though.
@@334tacticaloutdoors Just thought it would be worth a laugh but I found your Channel doing some research for a solar powered Canoe I'm trying to build thanks 😃 👍
@@3DLasers a solar powered canoe, that’s interesting. Well if you see somewhere I can be of assistance just ask, I’ll help the best I can.
@@334tacticaloutdoors Neat, just another Air Force brat and I've been designing airplanes ever since I was a little kid.
What's a Glass Bottom Flying Kayak without wings ? 😃
I gotcha, hell that’s neat. Working on kayaks, canoes that’ll be easy in comparison.
Great video. If I did this on a bow mount trolling motor will the electric steering still work? My control module is bad so I had to bypass it. Now it only operates on full speed.
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
I don’t see a reason it wouldn’t work you’re only using the power wires of the motor.
It worked!
@@RC-uh8jv that’s great to hear.
After watching this, it was pretty easy connecting my PWM, thanks. Have you had any issues with heat in a sealed enclosure? My box was hot at the end of the day, but I wasn't sure if it was just the sun.
Thank you, No I haven’t had any issues with my overheating. I created this video for the reason of helping others to see how easy it was so thank you for the feedback.
Mine overheated and put the mechanism into protective mode. No motor. Middle of the River 😂. Gonna have to vent it somehow
@Robley35 they sell a waterproof case that has 2 latches. You could just pop the latches open while running just to let air in to the PWM or you can add a fan to the top of the PWM to help keep it cool.
Thank you for the video! Do you recommend buying a PWM that comes with a fan? I don’t plan on using my trolling at full speed for a long period of time, but I do want to make the PWM last.
You’re welcome!! If you’re not gonna run it at full speed just short runs around without the fan is ok. The fan keeps it cool when running full speed for long amounts of time.
@@bowtiechris3159 Amazon is where I get mine and you need at least 10awg.
WMYCONGCONG 2 PCS SAE Power Socket Sidewall Port Connector 10AWG 23.62inch SAE Quick Disconnect Panel Mount Power Cable with Cap for Solar Generator Battery Charger
Built mine exactly as shown. Thank you for that. Only problem is there’s no ventilation in the box creating too much heat and the safety feature will not let the motor run. Any suggestions as to how to vent the box ?
You can drill holes in the box or put a small hinge opening that could be opened when running but closed when you want it to be.
I had two of thse cheap 60 amp units. The first one literally fell apart from poor soldering joints so I sent it back. The second one worked for a couple weeks till it burned up inside. It still works but the variable speed control part quit working. It now runs at 100% or not at all. No turning it down at all. So that's pretty much useless to me. I ordered one of the 100 amp units with the fan in it, so hopefully it will last. I will not put it in a completely waterproof box that is air tight. The 100 amp unit has a fan in it so I will need some venting anyway. DO NOT put the 60 amp PWM in a waterproof box. They run way too hot and will burn up. Even at 3/4 throttle, they get too hot to touch. Mine started to smoke and I could smell plastic burning.
The 100 amp is really nice and very well made I’ve had mine for a year with no issues.
Thanks for sharing. You think it will over heat inside a closed box?
Mine doesn’t have any issues. if you want the fan go with the 100amp you want have to worry about over heating.
@@334tacticaloutdoors sweet. Thanks
Awesome video, and the cutting of the shaft as well. I will be doing this soon. I have a dilemma with my new motor and the 2-year warranty. If I wanted to not cut the shaft and just leave the head on, how do I hook up the PWM?
What I would advise is to remove the head, just don’t cut the shaft. That way if you have any issues you can reinstall the head. Now I’ve spoken with Motorguide about removing the heads and cutting shafts and they can not void a warranty if what you do isn’t the cause for the failure.
@@334tacticaloutdoors, thank you. I bought an inexpensive motor, Newport Vessels NV 62 lb thrust, but it comes with a 36" shaft. I do have a question about the PWM, can I install it on the inside, under my deck and run wires for the controls to my seat? I always think a kayak will eventually be upside-down and I have my below deck area sealed.
@@victorgatelljr.5753 yes a lot of people have started doing it that way.
@@334tacticaloutdoors , I found a 24 gaunet, 8 wire wire for marine use and I used that to extend my controls. But when I tested it, I only get full speed on one direction and no variable speed at all. I'm at wits end, about to commit suicide. Any help will be appreciated.
@@victorgatelljr.5753 you’re using 24gauge wire to extend the variable speed control and the rocker forward and reverse switch, but you’re only getting one direction and one speed. If I read that correctly You got some loose wires in there that’s causing that issue.
Has your PWM failed? I’ve had 2 fail on me, but they were undersized. Your video helped me understand that I needed to double the amp rating of the motor. However, the PMWs on Amazon don’t have great ratings. Please comment on this. Unlike my errors, the reviewers appeared to know what they were doing. In other words, are there things we should know to avoid burning up the PWM?
BTW, I have a 55lb thrust motor. I was also wondering if I should limit the potentiometer to reduce the amps to the motor? Sorry for all the questions. 😢😂
Yes PWMs do fail. Any moisture will cause failure. If you haven’t looked into it try switching to ESC I’ll also include a video of one being installed that I believe did a great job. This would solve all the issues that you have mentioned.
HOBBYWING QUICRUN 880 ESC, Waterproof ESC for Dual Brushed Motors
ua-cam.com/video/Mv9Sg58tKsE/v-deo.htmlsi=WOPd4QL47X2As5Wn
I have not had my original pwm go bad in 4 years now . No fan . ua-cam.com/users/shortsWLUs32EvknY?si=tUpvMCxLyan9JEJ-
I fish 3 times a week pretty much years round unless river gets iced over .
Does it get hot and IF it does how do you circulate circulate the air in a enclosed box like you ae using. Will I need to Vent the box as I am ordering the PWM with the built in fan as it does get really hot in the summer here n centeral Texas. I want o try to make sure I do not burn out the PWM of melt the box and start a Kayak Fire..
I haven’t had any issues with overheating. If you see you’re having issues with overheating and decide to vent the box just make sure water can’t splash in it.
Got a question my 30 thrust minn kota motor has small black and red wires coming from the motor but 10 gage extension wires are alot bigger, will this be able to handle the amps for my pwm and battery?
As long as you’re using the red and black from the minnkota and they’re the biggest wires from the motor then yes 10 gauge wire is fine and will handle the amps for the PWM and the battery.
For those of you who are installing a PWM, and use a multi-meter to test the voltage, I discovered that when no motor is connected, the output on the unit will read full voltage, around 12.54 v. Only when you have resistance (the motor) will it read correctly. I am not an electrician, nor do I have a clue as to what I'm doing, but I found out the hard way when I installed my PWM, and after 8 hours of wiring, nothing worked. I almost had a heart attack, lol. I had to get an education in electronics in a hurry. Good luck!
Sorry you had such a hard time, sometimes something simple to one can be a struggle for others.
@@334tacticaloutdoors, thank you. Now that I have everything working correctly, I was wondering if I should vent the box to avoid overheating. I fish in Florida and it gets hot. I mounted my PWM near the lower side of my battery box, it's been sealed and should be watertight, but I was thinking of installing a 3/4" PVC stack, let's say about 6" with some sort of a cap that is splash proof but allows heat to escape. Obviously if I capsize, it's over, but at least during normal operations the PWM will vent and wave splash will not affect it. Have you tried anything like that?
@@victorgatelljr.5753 if the PWM has a built in fan you don’t have to vent it, but if it doesn’t you may wanna vent it to cool it off. I live in Alabama, I know how bad our heat is in the south.
Can a person relocate the switch and potentiometer away from the PWM or would the voltage drop to those be too much ? For instance....have the PWM with my battery and locate the switch seatside
A lot of people have started putting the PWM in a different location and moving the speed control and switch with very good success from what I hear.
What irritates me about all these PWM installations is no one takes the time to add a man overboard disconnect! Separate the two wires from the potentiometer and add the switch which can be clipped to your PFD!
This wasn’t a install, this was a video of how to hook up a PWM. How individuals work there install is there own accord.
@@334tacticaloutdoors Walmart even sells a disconnect, it’s common sense safety! If motor manufacturers can’t grasp this perhaps it’s up to us to protect one another. The video was great and basic but it’s incumbent upon use to help one another. Just sayin!
@MrRaoul1958 like I said this isn’t a install video it’s only how to hook up a PWM. UA-cam is wide open if you feel this strong make a PWM install video showing how to do a install.
Learn to swim.
I added it to the on/off to my 2 relay remote switch. Seems to work.
Thanks for sharing! Great vidio! Wish I had seen it sooner! Question? If you hooked up the + and - connections backwards to the motor leads would it just rotate the motor backwards? If so, then the 3 way switch would correct the issue? Also if by some mistake your battery leads got reversed, what would that do to the PWM? And lastly, what would happen if the motor leads were to accidentally be shorted between the PWM and the trolling motor? I ask these questions because last year I installed a PWM as a test on my trolling motor. Apparently I got everything hooked up correctly at that time. To save money during testing, I did use some makeshift connections for the battery + & - connections and the PWM output connectors. Unfortunately, recently I mistakenly arced the motor output leads and killed my PWM. Obviously, the arch created a dead short and fried some component in the box. I'm replacing the PWM and using better connectors so I don't repeat this mistake. But anyways, just curious what your thoughts are?
Thank you, I Never would suggest to hook the motor leads up backwards. If you hook the battery leads up to the wrong connection it will fry the PWM. It’s always best to run a fuse link between the battery and the PWM on the positive wire.
@@334tacticaloutdoors I'm not sure what size fuse is needed to protect the PWM. I will have to do some research on the PWM I purchased off Amazon. Thanks for the information!
@@ronniewetherington509 a 60 amp fuse should be all you would need
@@334tacticaloutdoors thanks
@@ronniewetherington509 you’re welcome.
I have the pwm that I think is the one you recommended. It's the 100A. There are nothing showing which screws go to motor or battery. This unit has the 4 screws next to the wires for the speed and forward / reverse switches. What goes where?
One will show a b+ that’s battery positive and motor positive will go beside it. Same way with b- that’s battery negative and the motor negative will be right beside it.
@@334tacticaloutdoors is there anyway I could send you a picture. Two of us here and neither can find any markings
@@deanbailey74 yea send me a pick 334tactical@gmail.com
Can you just run the pos and neg to the pwm from the motor without taking the head off? Do the other wires need to be disconnected?
You can leave the head of the trolling motor on, but all the wires must be disconnected from the switch in the head of the trolling motor. Just cap off the yellow and white wire and run the positive and negative from the motor out the same spot where the original positive and negative was and yes that can run straight to the PWM.
You might want to make another video about how to make the cables. Everytime I make my own cables, they always fail within a day.
How are you making your cables?
@@334tacticaloutdoors I use tinned cables of about 10 gauge and I use the heat shrink ring connector terminals. Every time it overheats, or maybe copper is touching metal or something but I can't figure it out.
@kennys3985 try using 8awg cable cause it sounds like the 10awg cable is heating up that’s causing your problem.
I am doing a set up on my Lifetime angler 116 (like yours) and I have PWM like the one you have. I have the quick connects that are 12 gauge rather than 10 gauge. Am I ok with the 12 gauge wiring?
12 is really to small 10 is really what you need.
Now you don’t have to buy the expensive 10 gauge wire lowes and Home Depot sells some that will work and it cost about 12 bucks for enough to do what you’re doing.
I've saw 0 videos on a PWM install on a foot controlled trolling motor. The speed coils are in the motor if I'm correct. I'm not as concerned about the power savings as I am wanting to slow my boat down. The trolling motor on 1 is still too fast for what I'm looking for.
Yea very few have put a PWM on a foot control trolling motor that I’m aware of.
Do you put a fuse in-between motor and pwm....or between battery and pwm
Between the battery and PWM
Hey did you post the video on doing the cut outs?
I haven’t yet I will be uploading as soon as possible.
Well done clear cut instructions. My only concern is does the PWM overheat at all in the box?
They will overheat if the temperature is extremely hot out, the fan does help. But letting them vent is best.
@@334tacticaloutdoors I'm excited for the results the PWM will provide. I'm trolling for trout and can't get my speed under 2mph with the throttle on my 55lb thrust trolling motor unless it is windy. That being said it seems like these will do the job nicely. Thanks for the excellent clear cut instructions. Time to catch more fish!
@thedreadpiratefisherman5325 yes the PWM definitely helps with that cause u can get the speed down to nothing. You will not be disappointed.
@@334tacticaloutdoorsI have the same setup on my 55lbs minn kota. PWM keeps blowing up. I'm on my 3rd controller.
@mgyabes1985 are you using the 100amp PWM? The 60amp want work with a 55lb thrust trolling motor. If you’re using the 100 amp you need to recheck all your wires are hooked up correctly.
Hi have a 12v 50lb thrust trolling motor witch pwm would you recommend the 100 amp or the 60? Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching the video. You would need the 100amp.
@@334tacticaloutdoors thank you!!! Thanks for the quick reply
@@334tacticaloutdoors I was wondering if there is any way you can make a video of making a pwm with installing a kill switch to the box . I could not find a good video explanation about it. I am new and flipped my kayak couple times and almost lost my kayak and also almost got hurt by the blade .
@@andylam83 you’re welcome!!
@andylam83 let me see if I can get one ordered and I’ll send u a message soon as I get it filmed.
How long does a fully charged battery normally last? I'm guessing most of the day?
Yes, it also depends on the battery a 50ah battery will last all day plus a little. A 100ah battery will last 2 or more days. A regular lead acid battery will last all day also.
8:35 I wired mine and I'm getting power but the propeller doesn't turn. I rewired it several times to make sure it's done correctly and still the same problem. If I wire the trolling motor straight to the battery it turns. I don't know what I'm doing wrong
What volt PWM do you have? And what size trolling motor?
Does it matter negative or positive left or right on the motor. Manufacturers didn’t label it like they did the battery
Yes you need to know your negative and positive. If the wires aren’t red and black like shown in the video look up the model of your trolling motor to see which wire is positive and which is negative.
What gauge wire do you use to go from the battery to the pwm?
I use 10 gauge.
Did you have to extend the motor wires or battery wires? If so do you use 10 gauge? And do I ask for 10 gauge connectors? Stupid questions, but piecing this together.
When u extend the wires from the trolling motor to the PWM yes and I use 8 gauge and the wire from the Battery to the PWM I use 8 gauge also.
@@334tacticaloutdoors thanks brother
@@jagervolant7871 you’re welcome
@@334tacticaloutdoors one last question. My PWM looks like your chrome one, but the potentiometer has wire like switch and turn knob… my set up goes from left to right.
Motor negative then positive
Then
Battery negative then positive
I’ve read in comments sometimes the Chinese get them backwards, and some people Fry their PWM…
You know anything about that?
Before I juice this thing up I thought I’d ask. 😂
@@jagervolant7871 if it reads motor negative and positive is right beside it that would be the motor positive and then battery negative battery positive would be right beside it.
How did you mount the pwm box to the kayak? Great video!
Thank you, I used a track rail and used toilet flange bolts cause there 3-1/2” longs and a aluminum bar across the top of the PWM to hold it down.
@@334tacticaloutdoors do the bolts go through the top of the box?
I used the bar across the top long enough to go to the edges so the bolts don’t go through the box there at each end of the box.
How and where did you mount the track rail? I have the same kayak as you, FYI. I did a similar build to you. Just figuring out the smartest way to mount the box…
I put a small rail by the left side of the seat. Then used 3” t-bolts and a flat bar across the top, then used round wing nuts to hold it in place.
Are these for brushed electric moterd to
Yes they’re.
Instead of the potentiometer can a e-bike throttle be hooked up to the PWM?
I’ve never tried and I’m not sure of anyone that has. As long as you can connect it to the control board I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
Do you prefer the one with the fan or without and do they last?
I prefer the one with the fan, it does last longer in my opinion, the one without the fan I still have in a box and it works great.
@@334tacticaloutdoors nice thank you
@@mystoryhisglory9438 you’re welcome
Can two trolling motors be hooked up to same unit?
To be honest I’ve never tried. It would have to have enough amps to power 2 trolling motors if it didn’t heat up to hot.
Are they brushless? Can’t mix the motor and pwm if they’re not compatible
That’s just an old trolling motor I’ve had for years. You can put any PWM on a trolling motor.
Did you ever upload the video showing how to cut the holes in the project box for the PWM? I can’t seem to find it. Thanks.
When I recorded the video the files got corrupted. I can re-record a new video and get it uploaded on a how to. I could have it up on Saturday 2/4/23 if that’ll help.
@@334tacticaloutdoors that would be awesome! Thanks 😊
I’ll reply here when the video is uploaded.
@@fly_yaker the video of how to cut the PWM holes is uploaded now if you wanna check it out.
@@334tacticaloutdoors awesome, thank you!
What is the life of the pwm being in an unvented box? The mfg. states to not mount in a closed box, how long have they lasted being in the sealed box?
As long as your not running the trolling motor at full speed very long the life can be a couple years. If you’re wanting to run at full speed yes the PWM needs to be vented to keep cool.
Thanks brother !
@toddslupski3072 you’re welcome.
Did you add an inline fuse
Yes when u do your install run a online fuse between the battery and the PWM and I also ran one between the PWM and the trolling motor.
Just curious, how would you connect a kill switch to that PWM?
You would just wire the kill switch in with the PWM power and negative on the forward and reverse switch.
Can you use this PWM with a brushless trolling motor?
Yes you can.
So I have duel trolling in the rear of my boat - crappie brakes - is it possible for one box to control both or would I need 2x thank you
You would need 2 in my opinion the amp draw from both at one time would be to much for one PWM.
No sure if my second question hit ? Have you found them anywhere outside Amazon ? They are out of stock there - thank you
The do sell them on eBay also. You can also use these also there’s a few UA-cam on some installs it’s worth checking out.
HOBBYWING QUICRUN 880 ESC, Waterproof ESC for Dual Brushed Motors
@@334tacticaloutdoors thank you very much for all the info - gotta share with ya that there is a guy selling these boxes for 500 - wow I love enterprise but that’s a lot of juice -
@@nentendo0888 I’m in the wrong business for sure. And you’re welcome.
What did you use to cut out the box?
I drilled a small hole then used a dremal tool with a sanding bit to cut it on out.
Just tried to hook mine up and pretty sure I fried it lol. The connection symbols were backwards on my unit. It started smoking pretty heavily
Yes you gotta be careful and make sure The connections are correct. It’s a expensive mistake. Good luck on your next one if you need help just ask.
2nd time was a charm. After reading the reviews the connections were indeed backwards on my label. Ordered another one and we are good to go now! Thanks for the great tutorial man. I might make a video showing my setup in the future. It’s a little unique since I have a prewired kayak (catch pwr 100). I’ll be sure to give you credit
Great job and thanks.
Hey man I'm really struggling here. I'm really hoping you see this. I purchased the pwm w the fan you had listed. I built my box got it all set up.hpwever the forward gear isn't working. I swapped the wires on the switch and the switch is good. I also put the trolling motor straight to the battery and it went forward. However every time I hook the pwm up the trolling motor loses forward.
It sounds like the rocker switch to the PWM is either bad, not connected good or has a short. That switch is the only thing on the PWM that controls forward and reverse.
I bought a waterproof switch and hooked that one up and the same thing happened. Tomorrow I will check for continuity
Ok let me know.
So this morning I was messing with it. I swapped the wires to the motor
Because its supposed to change the polarity. And I realized every time I commented the battery it would spark. The pwm was never really shutting off!!! Then the lights on the pwm went dark and the whole things dead now. I'm returning it. To Amazon.
Not sure if I should order a new one from the or try the one w out the fan
This is the one I use that doesn’t have a fan.
www.amazon.com/Stepless-Controller-Forward-Reverse-Governor/dp/B01M5F5UDS/ref=pd_bap_m_csi_pb_allspark_BIA_0?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=JNzfn&content-id=amzn1.sym.bcca84ef-5f4d-4682-852e-b0b38f16e8ba&pf_rd_p=bcca84ef-5f4d-4682-852e-b0b38f16e8ba&pf_rd_r=ZKD6NFE6EZF84QJRZ0JF&pd_rd_wg=iWw3J&pd_rd_r=ff1d171e-60cb-44f1-8b0b-411ed31151e6
Here goes a stupid question. Could the PWM output be connected straight to the motor cable without disconnecting anything from the motor head, therefore, putting and leaving the head at speed 5 (or max) and still be able to control the speed and direction from the PWM controller? I hope that made sense.
No the PWM does variable speed. The yellow and white wire inside the head of the trolling motor has to be disconnected. I have a video on my page of taking the head off a trolling motor it’s a very simple process.
@@334tacticaloutdoors Ok thank you for the feed back. I just thought that because speed 5, or max, is a essentially a "direct feed" from the battery to the motor (bypassing all other speed resistors) that this could be done. I'll go check out your other video. Thanks again.
@@Juan-hy5cl it’s really a simple process to take the head off the trolling motor. Now when you remove the head off the motor disconnect the wires and hook your power and negative wires to the PWM you can put the head of the trolling motor back on just don’t hook the wires back to the head.
I’m having difficulty getting the switch attached to the box. Do the wires come out to help install ?
Yes you can unplug both the switch and the variable speed control from the PWM. The best way I have found to cut the hole for the switch in your box is to cut a hole in a index card that your switch fits then trace that onto your box to cut out.
Ok thanks. I’ll keep trying but I accidentally pulled the wire off the solder connection. Thanks for the tip on tracing
The wires only come loose from the PWM
What if my old motor has two black wires from the motor wires?
Is it just 2 big black wires? or one big black one and one small black wire with a big red one?
Hey man,
I connected everything just like you said but propellor won't turn...I hear it clicking from front 2 rear and speed, as the fan is going, in the box not turning. What am i missing here?
Thank you, if anyone can pipe in all good.
Double check the power and ground wire coming from the trolling motor to the PWM sounds like one is crossed or one is loose.
@@334tacticaloutdoors Honestly, i didn't know it had a ground wire. all i saw was that yellow n white which we don't need. but man, I don't know what I'm doing wrong here. i went thru 3 pwm's already and all 3 shortened out. I'm connecting it just like you said and I'm using the same pwm you mentioned. i used an 8G from my 10g out of the motor all the way out to the pwm and battery. Started running slowly and when i raised the knob full throttle it shorted! so that's three i screwed up. what gives? The first i blew out cause the knob was on high so it shorted. the second one i made sure everything was off but when i started it, blew that one to. This last one, i noticed it was a 10V all i can think of is that is maybe was the voltage since the battery is a 12V. or maybe the 10G > 8G. I'm at my wits end brother...
What trolling motor are you using what it sounds to me is one of the wires is shorting out in the motor itself
Is there a fuse anywhere in this setup?
This video was just to show how to hook up the PWM, the fuse or breaker would have to be in line from battery to the PWM and also from the PWM to the trolling motor.
My motor positive and motor negative cables don't look the same so I cannot connect it to the PWM box. Is there a adapter or something I need to buy?
What you mean they don’t look the same? You shouldn’t need any type of adapter.
@@334tacticaloutdoors So basically the tips of the motor positive and motor negative cables look the exact same as the yellow and white one next to it.
@@insertnamehere9935 cut the ends off and add new connectors to it.
@@334tacticaloutdoors Alright thanks and I have another question idk if its stupid or not but is there a way I could use 1 PWM to control 2 trolling motors?
No I would use individual PWM due to the Amos that one trolling motor is gonna pull.
1st day out. I’m on full power running for about an hour on my minn Kota 40…. All of a sudden it shuts off…. The reverse still works oddly… the 0-100 wouldn’t even display for the forward switch (the two lines)
I had to paddle my ass 4 miles back LOL
The PWM was hot as shit…
How do I avoid that in the future?
I read the PWM is only 40 amps continuous. Obviously me going full blast was beyond that…
Is there a PWM that will go continuous without over heating dying?
Also is that PWM dead dead, or can I revive it in anyway.
You need a larger PWM the 100amp with a fan especially running full power.
I also forgot make sure you’re running 8 gauge wire.
Does it get hot?
When it’s really hot outside yes especially when you run the trolling motor wide open for a good bit. The fan on the 100amp PWM really does help keep it cooled best it can.