Nikon FA Video Manual 2 of 2
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- Опубліковано 15 бер 2015
- With its blistering 1/4,000th of a second minimum shutter speed, advanced metering system, and generally good performance, the FA presents cost-conscious film users a viable alternative to the FE2. Much of the way that modern cameras meter scenes originated in the FA. The first matrix-metering camera, the FA delivers consistently well-metered and well-exposed images in complex lighting, with difficult subjects, and in difficult conditions. As one of my friends said of the FA, 'the name means F***ing Awesome."
Link to Video 1:
• Nikon FA Video Manual ...
Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:07
Mounting and Unmounting Lenses: 0:20
Loading and Unloading Film: 1:13
Changing the Batteries: 5:52
Flash Use: 9:53
Looking Through the Viewfinder: 13:03
How the Meter Works: 15:40
How to use the Shooting Modes - Program: 19:38
How to use the Shooting Modes - Shutter Priority: 21:45
How to use the Shooting Modes - Aperture Priority: 23:26
How to use the Shooting Modes - Full Manual: 26:08
Hoe to Take a Photo with the Nikon FA: 28:28
Taking a Double Exposure: 32:18
Changing the Focusing Screen: 38:36
An Invitation to Like and Subscribe: 39:47
References:
www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pd...
mir.com.my/rb/photography/hard...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_FA
imaging.nikon.com/lineup/filmc...
imaging.nikon.com/history/chro...
mir.com.my/rb/photography/hard...
mir.com.my/rb/photography/hard...
My Photography Website:
www.5119photography.com/
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beyondbokeh.blogspot.com/
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Again, thanks for the great videos you do for all your reviews!
I just bought a used Nikon FA and these videos answered all my questions! Thank you!
Thank you!
This is so so helpful! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video!
Thank you!
Recently a friend gave me her late husbands Nikon FA. Your videos have brought me up to speed. Thank you.
Thank you!
Fantastic reviews on both parts 1 and 2.
+Jas Mann Thank you!
Thanks David for this video manual and simple English language :) I'm pretty new owner of FA model and well... I'm fall in love again ;) Greetings from Poland, Warsaw!
+Addeo Uronski Thank you! There's a lot to love with the FA. It's a very nice camera.
This is the best review ever!
Thank you! 👍
Thank you!
«…and when you decide to take full creative controll and move into the manual shooting, - the Fa will join you in that journey too».
Well said, thx for two great reviews about this great camera. I will start my journey into the film world with the FA.
Thank you!
Wow, how amazing. This is like the FM3A, but a decade earlier... with more features!
The FM3A, I think, has a mechanical shutter instead of electromechanical, but functionally they're basically the same.
i just picked up an FA and this was very helpful. thank you, wish i could buy you a beer lol.
Thank you! If the chance arises, I don't say no to free beer.
I’ll be watching this video again when I get my FA soon. I was lucky enough to snag a new, never used FA on ebay
Nice!
thanks for the video, just got an FA as my first venture into film photography; fingers crossed its not a faulty one!
Thank you and fingers crossed!
thank you! literally perfect.
Thank you!
Good video, thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you for making this. Its one thing to be able to get a fancy whizbang dream camera for pennies on the dollar these days, buuut, its quite another to actually make sense of & use it. I thought I’d need to carry a 2nd (digital) camera to get proper settings & duplicate on this film camera. This crazy things practically got one built in already! And you can run a data back on it? Exifdata for my slides? Mind blown.
Thanks for a great video (series) about the Nikon FA.. I found it very useful, helpful and interesting as well.
Recently, I got my hands on a FA (pure luck).. I have one question for you:
After feeding the SLR with new batteries, everything seem to work as intended - but - rotating the ISO dial from eg. 25-3200 does not seem to affect the metering on the LCD (+/- does not change at all when using the iso-dial) Is the cam faulty, or am I missing something here? Is that iso-dial not supposed to be corresponding with the metering system? Selecting at higher iso should tell the meter to indicate a minus for a faster shutterspeed or? Hope you can help with some info about this. Thanks in advance and best Regards, Claus
Thank you. As for the adjustment, that may or may not be an issue. Are you in "A" mode? If so, then that would stand to reason as the camera would just pick the best shutter speed for the ISO and aperture. If you're in manual mode with a specific shutter speed and aperture selected, then adjusting the ISO should affect the meter reading.
@@DavidHancock Oh, forgot to mention the mode when giving you a description about the problem - and, yes - it is in M/full manual mode, that the iso-dial does not correspond.. That was my fear.. Such a shame.. Really was looking forward to take that fine FA for some trips.. I might try a disassembly to see if the problem can be identified - there is everything to win.. Huge thanks for your prompt, skilled and very helpful feedback David. At least I now know for sure that there is a problem, and what the specific problem is. Thanks a lot. Best Regards from Claus
Great video it has helped me tons. I have been using my Nikon FA these past few weeks and lately I was fidgeting with it and now have encountered a problem I believe. In the top right of the view finder where the shutter speed is in apreture priority mode It says C250 and wont change regardless of the apreture. It used to not do this. Do you know what I should do so that It tells me the correct shutter speed again? Thank you!
Thank you! For the readout, check your shutter speed setting. It sounds like you have the dial at 1/250th.
Thanks for posting this great video series on the Nikon FA. I just ordered one yesterday so I'm sure I will be reviewing your videos again once I get my hands on it. I was confused on one part regarding the lenses that you used with the FA though, so hopefully you could clarify that for me. I think in the first video you mentioned one of the lenses you bought for the shoot was the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AI-S, but then in the video when you are reviewing the camera I believe you have a Nikon 50mm Nikkor f/1.8D AF lens mounted on it. I'm only asking because I bought the FA body only so need a good standard lens for it to start out and was wondering if you used both the AF and the AI-s lenses or just one? If both, which did you prefer more for the FA? Thanks again for posting and no rush at all on answering these, just curious... Thanks!!
Jay S. You're probably right about it being the AI-D. The sub-types of Nikon's lens mount are somewhat confusing to me. I actually can't tell you the difference between AI-D and AI-S.
David Hancock It is easy to tell the difference! The AF-D has the CPU contacts&the slotted socket where the AF motor in the camera body engages like a screwdriver! Simply turn the focus ring&you'll see this socket turn[gives you info as to AF speed-1/2 turn moves focus X amount]! Also.the AI-S has a"divot"on the mounting ring[unlike an AI] which triggers the high shutter speed program in P mode for 135mm+ lenses ! Hope this helps!
Jay,this is only my opinion!! But,think down the road-a F4,5,6 or[the horror,the horror!] digital with AF motor! I would suggest AI-S&AF-D lenses for the greatest compatability! Even on my[shudder]D7100,you get all the metering modes&EXIF data by simply entering focal length&max aperture in the menu! SOME AF-D lenses even have pre-drilled pilot holes,so NIKON service can screw on"Bunny Ears"to meter on my ancient FTN! Also,don't believe this"Fragile"bollocks!
William Power Hi William, Thanks for the suggestion! I did end up going with a 50mm f/1.8 AI-S manual lens for the FA, because as you said it will run on all the metering modes and feels better on an older camera. Its one of the earlier production lenses within the f/1.8 line which they made three different types of; the one with the "bunny ears" which is a little longer, the "pancake" one, and basically the pancake but with a chrome ring. I went with the longer version which seems better for focusing manually. Thanks again for the suggestion.
very lucid reviews, the 2 parts. Did I somewhere pick up that if you wear glasses working through the viewfinder is a bit awkward? Would I preferably need contact lenses? (which I never have used). Thanks.
+TheMrBennito Glasses are always a bit awkward except on the top-tier professional cameras. You will lose some additional viewfinder coverage with glasses on this camera. It's a generally good camera, though. Right now I'm working with an FM2 and FE2. I think that the FE2 is a nicer option if you have the choice.
hello david i am between FA and olympus om2n.Can you help me decide which one?What meter and viewfinder do you prefer the nikon or the olympus?Thnx!
OM, no competition. I like the grid screen the best in the OM, plain matte a close second.
Awesome video!
Thank you!
Thank you very much! Very nice video! And could you please recommend me Nikon camera? I have opportunity to get Nikon FA. Should I get this one, even there is a risk of electronics failure without possibility of repair? Or should I get rather Nikon F2 or F3 or? Thanks for advice! Best!
Thank you! I don't recommend specific cameras. What I can do is suggest researching the differences in models. I have similar videos for the F2 and F3 as well and those might help you figure out if they're a better match than this or if the FA is the model that suits you best.
@@DavidHancockThanks David! I'll look at it...
Good video series David . Thanks
the 3v volt battery is the N1. It is lithium, and does not leak. I use it in most of my Nikons. Cheap on ebay. (I think the main use is for dog collar).
Do you know after which serial number the FAs problems got fixed? That is the main reason that I never got one. The F3 is my pick for super reliable, built like tank Nikon w/electronic shutter. (hey, it was good enough for NASA !!!). F2 is the mechanical tank. But that is another story.
Jay John Thank you!
Regarding the SN cut-off, I don't know exactly how Nikon does SNs. If they're like other companies, then they plan out the production runs, reserve blocks of SNs, and maybe all the numbers are used or maybe not. Also, I think that Nikon fixed a lot of the faulty bodies under warranty, so even if a specific SN were known, it wouldn't be a good indicator of if a camera is likely to be faulty or not.
Honestly, were it me, I'd just go with an F3 over the FA. It's more robust and they've held up better over time than the FA bodies. Yes, the 1/4,000th shutter speed was nice, but I used it all of about six times and only because I specifically went out of my way to.
David Hancock Agree regarding the F3. It feels rock solid in my hands, compared to my FM. Especially when attached to the MD4 motor drive, it feels like awesome.
I think Nikon F2as is the best representative of all mechanical cameras (from any brand), Nikon F3 for electronic shutter cameras and the F4S for the AF cameras. The newer ones feels more flimsy and synthetic (including my D750, D7000, D70s).
I guess it is a matter of preference and opinion !!!!
I haven't gotten an F2 yet. I was thinking about it yesterday and it would be nice, at some point, to do an F2 video.
Cons :
1) The FA's original Matrix meter isn't as accurate in tough conditions as newer matrix meters in the AF cameras.
The FA will err on the side of overexposure if the scene contrast gets too high.
2) The FA has TTL flash metering, but no automatic balanced fill flash ability.
3) Watch out for used ones with sticky depth-of-field preview levers.
This often means the aperture control pin is sticky
Nice! Thank you. I didn't know any of those things.
Thanks David for this video.
I have a question:
With Nikon fa, when I use flash, in which 4 (P,S,A,M) should I adjust it?
Should I chose 250/ sec. For shutter speed?
Thank you! Your safest bet for flash use is manual mode at the flash sync or slower.
@@DavidHancock
Dear David, sync or slower, give me an example. Sorry which I am a beginner...
will the program, ap, and sp only compensate if there’s a battery in the camera or will it work without the battery
Every function on this camera requires a battery, if I recall correctly.
What if your shooting method is always "focus-recompose": Will there be a difference in how the image is expoaed if you're in Matrix or Center weighted mode?
If the lighting in your focus scene is meaningfully different than your lighting in the image scene, then yes, there will be an exposure difference if you use automatic exposure. In your case, with any camera, shooting in full manual exposure mode is the best way to ensure you get the exposure that you want.
@@DavidHancock Hi David! Thanks for the reply! A few things:
1.Fully manual is best, indeed, but if I go that route- this means that my mind is bothered with too much technicality and I might lose a great shot, or the interest of my subject. That's why I gotta meet the camera halfway. So Aperture Priority is a great mode for me. Just make sure the shutter speed is ok, pose your subject- focus, recompose -voila!
2. When I shoot backlit photos- i aim the lens downwards, at a bodypart of my subject (say, their stomach)- i lock that exposure, and then recompose to the backlit area (usually more upwards towards the sun). And it seems to expose well.
(Spot metering on, say, the F100- might enable me to directly aim at that backlit area (if i meter the subject's face) i guess..
3. Lately I thought i should try some shots as my subject is in movemet, so despite i never thought i'd use Shutter Priority- that's a great way to utilize that feature. I just wonder at what shutter speed - movement isn't blurry.
For sure 1/4000, but I dont wanna go for max shutter speed here. I need light. So, say you shoot a subject that walks fast, jumps slightly...which shutter speed might be enough in a well lit day? (I have a hunch that this could only be solved testing it with a digital camera in field)...
HI David that light meter window at the bottom of the mirror box that measures light off the film.....does it ever need to be cleaned?
Only if it gets dirty. I once had to add only needed a bulb air blaster for that.
@@DavidHancock Thank you David. Just to clear when you push the meter button in I presume it immediately goes to centre weighted. Then if you dial it so the red line is up that locks it in to centre weighted? And when this button is in the out position it is matrix metering?
the full 3V battery for the camera is actually still manufactured
Its called a CR1/3N battery
Thank you!
Just picked one up. However, the shutter lever seems stuck :/
Are the batteries good? I think this camera needs batteries for the shutter to operate.
I shot four frames and opened the lid back, can I still use the remaining 32 frames?
You can, yes. Most of them. You'll need to re-advance to frame 1 again, but should get approximately 27-28 frames.
@@DavidHancock thanks a lot, really appreciate your reply and great videos
No battery
There should be a time-linked index in the video that will take you to the section on how to change batteries.
Speaker was doing well and informative up to the point of turn your aperture to the smallest number. Most likely grew up in digital era and research dabble in film. The language is not of old school film or formally institution schooled terminology. Just say stop your lens down or open up. Because smallest number technically on that 50mm you are.demostrating is f1.4. Which is maximum opening and minimum is f22 stopping down all the way. Very confusing if beginners listen to that part of the video. The intent is good and well but explanation and leading to language and terms are not. It's my 2 cents. I could be wrong but check John And Barbra Upton academic photography manual for college level class 1&2
Hi, Speaker here. I've been shooting film for 33 years now. I shoot everything from 110 to 8X10. Feel free to check out my All About Film video series if you'd like to learn more about my film photography background. I've only shot digital for ten years. So yeah, that part of the video could have been done better. I believe, if I recall correctly, the the part of the video you're likely referring to has to do with automatic aperture control from the camera, which requires that the lens be stopped down all the way (to f/16 or f/22, depending on the lens) and then the camera can control the aperture. That, I believe, was the crux of that segment.