Damn brother, you still remain one of my most favorite beautiful minds. You're a mechanical genius but have the patience and eye for precision. It's awesome to see someone that takes pride in any and everything he does.
Brian, that was the awesome vid ever. Now I will do the exact same thing for my truck. I'm a fickle for tidyness and cleanliness appearance. with permatex shoving thru the plug ends was absolute best idea ever. thanks for the tip and ideas. keep the vid coming!! Josh ~ Idaho
I did a similar install in my jeep. To keep the blue LED off until you need it. I installed a toggle switch that supplies power to my accessory switches. A switch, for all other switches that have LEDs.
You can modify the wires going into the switch so that the lower LED only comes on with the ignition and not on all the time. If I remember correctly it's that jumper wire, or one of them anyway.
Nice job . I was wondering about drilling through my roof and using big flat washers to support the light in the case that I nail a tree branch. Looks like I'm on the same page as you. Looks like I'll install my 30" light bar on my 2019 Wolverine x2 tomorrow. Again nice job, thanks for sharing
I have found that to make the hole in the dash ,just heat up the razor of the razor knife and it melts perfectly through the plastic. You will have to heat a few times. But it works great. Use gloves 😊
I’m curious about how the light reflects off the window when you use it at night? I’ve got a can am that I am upgrading but my experience from many many years ago with sand rails was that lights mounted above the window would reflect off the window making them not so great in that location. Good video production.
Devils in the details. It's better to run a relay and not need it than to kindle some warmth and smoke behind your dash. It all depends on your load, wire guage, and what your switch is rated for. I don't have any of those details here.
Never connect new loads to existing circuits unless you know exactly what's going on with the existing circuit, and the new circuit you wish to add. Most often you can get away with an existing switch controlling an additional relay coil (if that's your desire). Most often that relay should be switching it's own circuit (fuse) for it's load. Even if the contact side of the circuit which feeds the new load can be handled by an existing circuit ask yourself if it's ok for the new circuit to blow the fuse in the existing circuit due to a short. You don't want to lose a critical circuit that might strand you over an accessory. Also keep in mind that even a relay coil is a load and will vary depending on the type. Most small relay coils draw less than an amp in the coil circuit and so you may be ok with adding the coil circuit to an existing circuit. Draw out your circuits and analyze the current draw on the circuit/s you're going to be working with and think about the risks if there's a short in your work.
Damn brother, you still remain one of my most favorite beautiful minds. You're a mechanical genius but have the patience and eye for precision. It's awesome to see someone that takes pride in any and everything he does.
Brian, that was the awesome vid ever. Now I will do the exact same thing for my truck. I'm a fickle for tidyness and cleanliness appearance. with permatex shoving thru the plug ends was absolute best idea ever. thanks for the tip and ideas. keep the vid coming!! Josh ~ Idaho
You can just disconnect the power to the blue LED on the back of the switch. It won’t affect the function of the switch, just turns off the light.
You didn't use a micrometer, you used calipers lol. Great video
I did a similar install in my jeep. To keep the blue LED off until you need it. I installed a toggle switch that supplies power to my accessory switches. A switch, for all other switches that have LEDs.
Wow what a phenomenal view from up there.
You can modify the wires going into the switch so that the lower LED only comes on with the ignition and not on all the time. If I remember correctly it's that jumper wire, or one of them anyway.
Nice job . I was wondering about drilling through my roof and using big flat washers to support the light in the case that I nail a tree branch. Looks like I'm on the same page as you. Looks like I'll install my 30" light bar on my 2019 Wolverine x2 tomorrow. Again nice job, thanks for sharing
I have found that to make the hole in the dash ,just heat up the razor of the razor knife and it melts perfectly through the plastic.
You will have to heat a few times.
But it works great. Use gloves 😊
One of the best Vids. Great information.
Great video.
I will make sure that since i am going through the hassle, i will use a different switch
Amazing view from your paramotor!
I smell like urine!
Thanks Ozz!
I’m curious about how the light reflects off the window when you use it at night? I’ve got a can am that I am upgrading but my experience from many many years ago with sand rails was that lights mounted above the window would reflect off the window making them not so great in that location. Good video production.
Good quality install!
Nice view of Utah Lake from up there.
Awesome job
Do u need more one battery to run a light bar?
They make watertight fittings for wire pass thru
So its best to run it straight to battery?
Hi. What size is the light
If it is mounted on Roof, it will Grab every Limb in the Woods--been there, done that...
What was the length of the bar?
What size is the bar? 30"?
U wanna seal that relay up to especially where u have it located
I am wiring led lights on my 96 tacoma. Do i need relays or are the switches enough?
Aren't relays just electronically controlled switches?
pandemoniummisfits. yes but they can control more amps more safely.
Devils in the details. It's better to run a relay and not need it than to kindle some warmth and smoke behind your dash. It all depends on your load, wire guage, and what your switch is rated for. I don't have any of those details here.
Never connect new loads to existing circuits unless you know exactly what's going on with the existing circuit, and the new circuit you wish to add. Most often you can get away with an existing switch controlling an additional relay coil (if that's your desire). Most often that relay should be switching it's own circuit (fuse) for it's load. Even if the contact side of the circuit which feeds the new load can be handled by an existing circuit ask yourself if it's ok for the new circuit to blow the fuse in the existing circuit due to a short. You don't want to lose a critical circuit that might strand you over an accessory. Also keep in mind that even a relay coil is a load and will vary depending on the type. Most small relay coils draw less than an amp in the coil circuit and so you may be ok with adding the coil circuit to an existing circuit. Draw out your circuits and analyze the current draw on the circuit/s you're going to be working with and think about the risks if there's a short in your work.
Why does every other video show to run the wires to the bus bar behind the dash? You went directly to the battery. Does it matter?
where about do you live great view of the mountains
Utah- thanks!
Thanks for the vid
Song on the end was? ...
14:27
caliper
I was wondering why he was using a micrometer, then he showed the calipers....
Ephemeral ???
cool
Flirst... oh fart.
You're the MAN!
+briansmobile1 Flanks... it's my flirst time.
Flongratulations!
Shack eeeeeeee