Battery Desulfation Demonstration Start to Finish - Part 1/2
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Battery Desulfation Demonstration Start to Finish - Part 1/2
In this video I demonstrate the full desulfation process using a lab style power supply and a lab style electronic load. After editing part1 of this video I realized it would be very boring so I set the project aside, but decided to pick it up again later on to finish it as I thought it was still informative. Please let me know if this is something that interests you.
Where to purchase the Lab Power Supply used in this video:
amzn.to/3fCunJp
Where to purchase the Electronic Load used in this video:
amzn.to/2V9yZx0
FTC Disclosure Statement:
Some links may be affiliate links. I may get a commission if products are purchased using the links provided.
I cannot guarantee against improper use of the information contained in this video, nor guarantee against unintended consequences of replicating what is seen in this video. I assume no liability for property damage or personal injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Be sure to read and follow all safety instructions for any equipment seen or implied in this video, and use safe practicies when working with potentially dangerous equipment. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user. - Навчання та стиль
Thank you very much for the very helpful method. I have a 12V 12Ah battery which died and it didn't react on smart battery charger. Using your method I was able to recover the battery and use it. As I don't own lab equipment, 1st I have used 36V 4.5A adapter, the current was slowly rising from 0.01A to above 2 A over a day and battery gets very warm, batt. voltage at the end of the day was above 10V, which dropped to 8V overnight. So I started the cycle again next day. until the current rose to 3A, I stopped there as I don't own lab equipment, voltage at the end of the day was above 11V and dropped above 9V overnight. Next day I took laptop power supply 20V 4,5A and it took approx a day the current rose above 2A and batt. voltage was above 12V. Then I attached the smart charger, and it charged the battery overnight. I took few days but I can use it now.
That's great! I much enjoy situations where people use what they have on hand to accomplish things that ordinarily wouldn't be possible without some knowledgeable creativity. Sometimes the best hammer you have on hand is a wrench, and sometimes the best pry bar you have on hand is a screwdriver. It works.
There are thousands of us who are just happy to see you back Knurlgnar! You have always made the best inverter videos anywhere on UA-cam.
Thanks Drewboo!
Hip hip hooray the man is making videos!
Pleasant surprise to see activity from you channel again. Always impressed with your knowledge and manner of presentation. Plz continue to share.👍
This is how I know we are headed to better times. Knurlgnar is back posting vids. Love it!
I'm glad to see you back. I find your videos very informative, accurate, and helpful. Production quality is not as important as the three things I just mentioned. Whenever you need a break or don't feel like doing videos, that's your prerogative.
Oh hell yes! Another
knurlgnar24's hands video! Saturday is saved!!!
Hi, excellent explanation. I hope you will also be doing switching power supply , chargers and inverter type repair videos like all the ones you did before. I very much enjoy your videos, thank you for the considerable time and effort that you must put into producing these videos for all of us that really enjoy watching them. I hope that the coming here will be very good and rewarding for you.
Cats don't mind a little danger, they have nine lives! Eight lives. Seven. Better lock up the cat.
Thanks for this. I have a 12v 20Ah SLA battery that I neglected and when I tested it, it was 6v. None of my smart chargers would touch it. I have a lab power supply and it never dawned on me to try that - even though I've used it before to charge batteries. Anyway, 24hrs later and it was taking 2Ah from the power supply. It's now charging on a normal charger which shows 20% charge. Even if it's not useful at the end of the exercise, it was fun!
the reason "smart" chargers don't touch dead batteries is because they don't see a load and they have short circuit protection built in because dumb people like to shock themselves or start fires. you can trick them into seeing a load by putting a high-wattage resistor or incandescent light bulb in parallel w the battery.
Nice to see you back too! I loved the inverter reviews. I have learned that nearly all batteries that came from computer UPS's are usually toasted. I think they are just boiled dry. I have found a few bloated out too. The only batteries that stand a chance of recovery are ones that were simply neglected, under charged, sat on a shelf for 2+ years since new. There is no way of recovering a battery that has been cycled over and over to near dead everytime, or float charged at 15 volts like some UPS's can do. They're just pooped out.
I agree. Most UPS units are designed for battery changes every couple of years and they 'boil' them dry fairly quickly by floating them at a high enough voltage to recharge them relatively quickly after use but low enough to avoid the cost of a multi stage charger. The old ubiquitous APC Smart UPS units float them at around 14V from what I've seen.
All batteries can dry out which is a point that all battery manufacturers are aware of but never disclose to their customers. So when they say Gel and AGM are maintenance free, it's like saying transmission fluid is 'lifetime' fluid...yeah, for the lifetime of the vehicle which is a relative term. I think there needs to be more testing done by flooding AGM and Gel batteries to see how many if any are recoverable by adding water. AGM should have the best luck as I spoke with one manufacturer that told me they flood their AGM batteries with a typical water and sulfuric acid solution then dump out the excess in order for the battery to be classified as "AGM".
@@imzjustplayin Agree with your facts.
I really missed your videos man. I'm a truck driver and your inverter videos helped me a ton
Thanks! You truck drivers are underappreciated in my opinion!
Yah
More please
One of the few trustworthy sources on UA-cam
Good to hear from you again! The other aspect of voltage and Ah capacity is the internal impedance, especially when discharging.
Great point!
If you haven't bought a bench top power supply you are missing out,
After you own one you will wonder how you ever lived without it,
I can't say enough 😀
I have saved so many batteries from certain death due to what I learned from your old videos.
I have a U1 12V battery that sat for at least 4 years from my snowblower. I didn't bother maintaining it since I have had a snow clearing service. Anyway, it has been stored indoors just to make sure it didn't freeze. It read just over 6V and I decided to charge it with my new Pro-Logix PL2320 (at 2A)...I had to see if it worked. (all my other chargers are low current chargers/maintainers). Incredible, it took a charge and then went into maintenance mode. I did a load test at 100A and it dropped to 10V which it held. OCV a day later is 12.60V. I have done a few charge and load test cycles. So far so good.
Finally back thank God!
Excellent demonstration video, greetings from Saudi Arabia.
Knurlgnar rulz! Fantastic to enjoy regular content from you again - please don't burn out, you have lots of fans out here who understand if you need a break - just keep on creatin' !
Since I have a bench supply, this works for me. Thank you.
Going to miss the videos that you do. Out here in cyber space your work has been well received.
good to see you back :) waiting for part 2, cheers 👏👌🍁🙋♂️😊👍😉
Love the project room, a beer and el-Pussy-gato helping you out!
Just the video I was looking for. Thanks!
The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy approved ! that was good info
Thanks for pointing me to this video. The batteries I mentioned in my last message all test at around 12.5+ volts. I'm glad they are totally run down. Coincidentally the 20 batteries I have are from the same company they are leoch lpc12-75
I remember your comment but can't seem to find it - youTube mysteriously deletes things at will for unstated reasons. In any case those sound like very nice batteries and I hope you are able to restore them to useful condition and make use of them! I'd take those for my battery bank if I had the chance. :)
Hi , thanks for the video. you look expert on the topic, and all the reasonings sound correct. Do you have any link or literature on this? I would like to have more details on how much current should I set for a 100Ah battery, with several hour process. what is the dependance with temp and so on (I'm desulfating my camper batt)
I fixed about 20 batteey in the last month and make some money.
I do not know how to Thank you sir for your effort and knowledge.
Thanks for the comment! So many useful batteries are destroyed every year which could be used instead to reduce waste, increase overall wealth, and help the environment.
Welcome back to the world of the living.
Thank you. Very good explanation. It has shown me what I wanted to know.
Good to see you back. Maybe you can do a video of you cleaning up your shop!
NEVER! The chaos is what makes me feel ALIVE!!!
@@knurlgnar24 i agree when I clean my shop I can't find anything
Yah a new video
Great to see you back 👍
I'm interested, just bought home a dozen of these from ups's that I picked up for a test run of my solar setup while I build the 18650 packs
Look forward to part 2
And hope you make more, I've watched All you back catalogue
Can't believe you made it through all of my boring monologues! I fear my love of lead acid batteries may become obsolete in time as lithium batteries get less expensive. :( I do expect insurance companies to ban lithium battery banks in houses in the near future though unless very onerous and expensive 'certified and inspected' government approved pre-built units are used. Unfortunately the law will likely blanket all types of batteries because government is lazy. Thanks lithium! ...
@@knurlgnar24 Haha, I thoroughly enjoyed them, a good mix of detailed infomation with your impressions thrown in, not long and boring but also not just edited highlights
I only came across you a few years back when I started getting some free laptop batteries, so it was your inverter tests that attracted me
Think I ended watching everything you'd published, so great to see new content
Agree with your thoughts on lead acids future, they've served us very well with little change over the years and are definitely far safer than lithium
Appreciate your reply, take care and wish you all the best
@@knurlgnar24 The 2017 National Electric Code has a new section 480.3 which reads as follows: "Storage batteries and battery management equipment shall be listed. This requirement shall not apply to lead-acid batteries."
Based on this, I would expect insurance companies to ban homemade lithium banks, but allow lead-acid. At the very least lead acid banks will almost assuredly remain legal. I really don't know what sore of wording insurance companies would use to ban lithium banks, maybe capacity would be a factor.
knurlgnar's hands are back from hiatus now too! :D fun fact, Evervolt's old school 9 volt batteries used to have a black and white cat in their logo not unlike yours! so i'd say that's very appropriate! enjoyed the video and looking forward to how it turns out in part 2
we'd all love to see you making videos man!!
Welcome back, good to see that u ok and doing videos again
I love your almost despondent; seen it all attitude. You're one of the few tell it like it is. I missed yer videos. The industry needs more good skins calling manufacturers out on their BS.
Nice to have you back
I found your channel when you weren't making videos. And was like damn this is great. And I understand prison or children can inconvenience alot of doing things. LOL
glad to see you back ...
The real deal is back!!! Would be cool to test the dc to dc chargers compared to direct alternator to house Batts in rv use.
I actually have a video planned on converting an industrial power supply to a battery charger. I won't be comparing to an alternator setup but you can draw your own conclusions. In all honesty I'd personally recommend the dc/dc charger approach for most people. The alternator/engine approach is better for a prepper type as it's so simple, parts are easy to find, and it will last reliably for thousands of hours. On the other hand you never know when electronics will fail you.
@@knurlgnar24 Yes , agreed, the heavy duty ,upgraded alternators or dedicated secondary alternator like the #humbleroad van builder George, uses does simplify the charging system.I use a simple 150 amp breaker switch like you demonstrated ,manual off and on close to the driver's seat and a couple deep cycle batts. seem to work fine for me.After engine/ alternator is turned off the batts seem to drop from 14 to around 12.8 volts. But they power a low grade, 1000 watt so called "pure sine wave" inverter to run a cpap breathing machine all night. The voltage drops to only about 12 volts.
I was surprised it worked!
With the "Vandweller RV" craze still strong, your channel could help a lot of "do it yourselfers." Thanks for all your knowledge and tips and testing! Cheers from Vancouver BC.
I have a feeling you are going to get noticed more in the near future. I would think of making more frequent videos on battery power and reviving.
Thank you for the comment. I'm mostly inactive at this time but am considering reviving the channel in the future.
Welcome back, knurlgnar!!! Always good informative pertinent video presentation greatly missed.
Glad to see you back !!!!
Great informative video, thanks.
Knurl - we have TWO crittens that are always of the mind... "What are you doing now?!"...LMBO!!
I watched part 2 and then came back to view part 1.....still good info. I have removed the cover and rubber caps ( valves ) to add distilled water with a syringe into the cells. Is there a way to check specific gravity so that I may mix acid and water to be close to original solution ? I did not know before about leaving some headroom over the plates for off-gassing to re-constitute. Thanks JwgK
Unless the acid actually spilled only a trace amount of acid should have been lost. Distilled water should be the way to go.
Nice to see u back!! U should try capacity recovery of lithium batteries next, that would be really cool if u could get it to work.
Lithium batteries cannot be overcharged and are quite fragile. To be honest they scare me a little due to their horrific failure modes so I don't have much interest in working with damaged lithium batteries.
I was interested in the desulfation process. I wanted to look it up because I have a 7-stage charger and was wondering what is the Battery Desulphation mode is. And then, about 09:43 you are openening up some Dragons Milk! Oh wow haha! Nice, I had that before.
Still my favorite beer. It's like drinking a loaf of bread. Yum!
That battery was in a kids electric vehicle. The rubberized pad on the side is a vibration damper.
Glad to see you back! That intro music is the best, don't change it. I'm curious to see a demo of the battery capacity and output power of a recovered battery like this. What percentages can you expect? As for other properties, like self-discharge, do you have any predictions on what those could look like?
Part2 will have some, but not all, of that info. The video got long so I cut it short. Typically if a battery recovers it will have a higher internal resistance than when new and a lower capacity - the two are usually about the same percentage of new though it varies. Self-discharge is a wildcard in my experience. Most of the time you'll have no issues with it but it will almost certainly be higher by some amount than a new battery.
i liked the vid please make part 2
I never release part x until the full series is uploaded. Will be posted within the next week.
I've Really Missed Your Videos.
Great video. Thank you
nice to see you again
So I'm guessing that the bubbling is the conversion from Lead Sulfate back to Sulfuric Acid. At first it was chamber 1 (closest to the negative) and chamber 6 (closest to the positive) that would bubble but after several hours chamber 1 won't bubble at all. Is it chamber 1 finished desulfating or is it dead?
I am using a 12v/10a charger that has a brief 12v/50a engine start mode. I just keep switching between the 2. It's just interesting because at first only chamber 1 would bubble. Now it's the only one that doesn't.
Great video, I will have to try this method on a couple batteries I have kicking around, worth a shot, but I wonder if the old timey unfiltered DC (pulsating) charger would have a better chance at desulfating?
@Thomas Chrombly But some of the newer "smart" chargers won't work if the battery is dead. The old "dumb" chargers which are nothing more than a trasnformer and rectifier will try to charge anything connected to it.
@@MRCNC1967 I have found that attaching a smart charger AND an extra voltage source will trick the smart charge to begin charging. Once it sees a base voltage, then remove the alternate voltage source and let the smart charger continue to charge. JwgK
Good to see ya back man . Gosh I remember watching your first desulfating video has been too long . Can you also do a video why you will never get the rated AH on a lead acid battery please
Good job making the video, it was very informative. What is your opinion on battery desulfators? I use a Pulse Tech PowerPulse passive desulfator, they claim to have a patented frequency they use to desulfate batteries, I have been using it on my BMW battery for the past three years and never have any issue's starting even though I only drive about 25 miles per week.
i'll try this with my nackered old sealed acid batteries , they hold only a tiny charge and i do have an old charger and big 12v motor to discharge it , was thinking getting 2v cells from a forklift and trying those on my solar setup to get free power at night but here in scotland hard to find tham. thanks for posting
My friend has a solar setup and we are wondering; do we have to disconnect each battery to desulphate or can it be done in situ? A very informative video, thanks
The general answer is that they should be disconnected from the system to desulphate but there are exceptions. If you have them in parallel then disconnecting is required in all cases. If you have, for example, a 48V system with 4 batteries in series then you don't have to disconnect them if you're careful. On that hypothetical 48V system one could choose to idle the battery bank at 100% SOC and then desulphate just one of the 4 batteries in the 4S configuration, but the bank has to be either disconnected from the load/charger or idling at float and 100% SOC.
Short answer is that batteries should be desulfated alone, disconnected from the battery bank. If for no other reason than they are going to outgass a lot and get hot, and it's probably better to do that in a safer location.
@knurlgnar24 Great answer, thanks
I Finally Got The Old Battery's Out Of My
Power chair. Tomorrow I'm Installing My
New Battery's.
Just like old days :D
Only does vids when a Democrat is gonna be President. LoL 😆
:D
glad your back
with these "AGM " or maintenance free batteries if it's dry it A: won't charge , B:won't hold any charge for any length of time , opening the battery cover and adding water (not if it's a gel ) is the only way of successfully recharging /reconditioning
- My battery can accept up to 14.4V @ 4.5A for 1h for so called rapid charge ~65W. Atm I'm doing a 'force charging' with 2A current for 2h. Power supply shows me 16.22V and it is like this for 45min so far. I hope this 16.22V * 2A = ~32W is something my battery can take without damaging it.
- If battery is heating up it means that energy is being wasted for electrolysis? Am I correct?
- I understand that repeating a process of charging and discharging battery restores the capacity of the battery (up to some point), right?
- I don't have such fancy discharger, so I have to think about it how to discharge it properly. What can you suggest? Is lightning bulb ok?
Update:
I've ischarged the battery with a 55W car bulb. According to my calculations it should last for 1h45min before voltage will reach 10,5V on a battery. IT ends after 15minutes.. whcih menas my old battery is at 15,6% capacity...
After discharging I've started fast charging battery with forcing 4.5A for 1h. The voltage went up to 16.5V. The battery was warm (not hot) I would say like body temperature.
what's interesting is that during this charge I was reducing a voltage to 14.4V from time to time to see how big current can be accepted for such voltage and it looks like with every test it wanted to accept more.
After 1h I've reduced the current to 2A (the voltage dropped to 16,04V). I kept testing 14.4 V Once I've found that the 14.4V can accept at least 1A I used an 'intelligent charger' (which can give max 1A) and finished battery charge.
After 1h of battery charge process it still holds 13.14V which I think is a good sign. Tomorrow I'm going to do a discharge of it to see for how long will it last this time.
Love your cat. Wish I had a place to have a buddy.
I didn't either, but I made a place.
@@knurlgnar24 unfortunately the back of my truck is now my car of ten years got lost at a parking lot where the police came and my cat jumped out and I couldn't find her.
Nice video and Brother Clean up that room you will feel better and have positive energy to do your hobbies again lol. Put those batteries under the table stacked. Clean that shelf and get that lab equipment setup on your desk. Start just by cleaning garbage. You can do it just 15-20 mins a day will get that room in TOP shape in 1 week. From one hobbiest to another you need it man. When my work table is messy I cant even solder a wire properly. I know you know, But sometimes a little modivation goes along way. Please dont take this as an insult I truly feel like you are holding yourself back large !
I don't take it as an insult and I know you're right. Trouble is the space I have is just too small and I have much more 'stuff' than shown in the video - or in that room. (Three rooms and a garage with 'junk') Each time I've cleaned it's ended up a mess after the next project because I don't have a place to put anything permanently and it's a huge pain to move things every time I want to use them. A single dedicated garage stall attached to a 600ft^2 hobby room would do nicely. Then I could put solar panels on the garage roof and...
@@knurlgnar24 I hear you! The Room I do Projects in is my bedroom/studio/repairshop LOL, but my advice to you with the small space issue is you must be organsized and space will magically find its way to you like you never seen before. Make one Room your Designated Hobby Stop Shop. Get the garage to hold tupawears so that you can stack them and write with a marker what things are. 200$ Worth of bins shoud fix you right up. Stack as much as you can neatly making sure things are in the right place as it will save you time and headache later, Bundnles Chargers from laptops etc.Thats for the stuff you dont use often... As per for the projects try to have that last room setup with shevling and a table so that you can make it a " Project ROOM". Only projects you will get done within 1 year or so. Youre a smart dude and I know you have so much more to offer us ! Thanks for the Reply now get Hustling = ) MAD LOVE
Man where have you been!!!
welcome back
great video. i was trying this on a similar battery to yours. I had the power supply at 32v and it reached 1.3A then the current suddenly tanked all the way down to 200ma. Battery didnt seem that hot. Any explanation for this?
Interesting ? Yes !
Welcome back!
Brute force, good idea.👍 Nice charger.
When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a battery.
I think that's how the saying goes.
Used in home medical equipment for stairlifts.
When you are desulfating, to get the best result quicker are you supposed to be charging the battery at the same time its being desulfated? or do you want the processes separate? Thank you.
The charging step is what does the desulfating. Cycling the battery primarily does two basic things: 1: It allows you to judge your progress. 2: It physically stresses the plates causing shedding which exposes new active lead to the charging process, and helps to create stress cracks which allow conversion of additional sulfate into useful active material. Shedding isn't desirable but is an inevitable part of the process.
What if you have a used battery that takes over 30w even when fully charged?
I would "fix" dead car batteries with a dummy charger and a multimeter. When it would stay under 16v with 125a.for more than 5 seconds; it was ready to float charge 👍
An old mechanic's trick is to simply connect a battery to a dumb charger and let it 'boil' away. It worked. Not a refined approach but it was simple and most people aren't interested in wasting their time on such things when there are customers to serve. There are many approaches to this.
your videos are great
liked your video very much. please keep videos on
Great video, please produce more content and include your cat :)
My cat produces many things but tends to leave them in hard to find places sometimes.
@@knurlgnar24 Maybe you should dedicate a video to this topic :3
Since you apply more then double the voltage to the battery would it not be safer to keep the current to half the recommended current ?
Do you think the high frequency current pulses does a better job at desulphating ?
No
What happens if I leave a good deep cycle gel battery on a 15v desulfation cycle for an extended period of time?
Thank you in advance.
Gel batteries are very sensitive to outgassing so I'd guess the battery would be ruined if kept at 15V for an extended period of time. So long as the maximum charge specs for the battery are followed to avoid permanent gas pockets in the gelled electrolyte you'd be OK and the process should work - it would just take a long time since you're limited in how much current you can force through a gelled battery.
I am attempting to recover a Absolyte 48 volt, 2000 amp hour battery... I am trying to learn this process. Is it possible to remove each 2 volt cell and independently charge each cell to a state of charge? I am hoping to achieve as many cycles as I am able. Am I out of my mind for even attempting?
I have an Optima battery, and I have tried multiple chargers with supposed restoration functions, which have done almost nothing. I am using a similar power supply and it is only taking a charge at 30 Volts. Lower voltages do nothing. I have found Optima batteries are difficult to recover when fully discharged. Some of my fancy chargers leave the battery at a lower voltage after charging or attempting restoration. Battery is only warm not hot, but higher temperatures help to dissolve lead sulfate.
Higher battery temperatures definitely help the process but make thermal runaway more likely which is why I don't recommend it. If after a controlled overcharge for an extended period the battery still won't accept a charge at normal voltages then it's probably time to recycle it and get a new one.
@@knurlgnar24 I suspect what happens to the discharged Optima Batteries during charging is a layer of gas forms over the lead plates and can't escape into the gel. I had one go dead during the COVID lockdown. A dome light was left on, and the battery went dead. I tried every trick to recharge it with no success. It sat in the garage for a few months, and then, long after I had replaced it, It took a charge. Very annoying not fond of Optima batteries after using them.
You may like to include a diode between the variable power supply and the battery. If you are charging, and the power fails, the battery may backfeed the power supply, damaging it. I have seen it happen. Ok Ok... I learned the hard way! :-)
That definitely *shouldn't* happen, but yes I also have that fear because power supplies are usually not tested against unanticipated events like AC power outages. I did try unplugging the supply while on the battery as a test and it didn't do anything bad but that only means so much.
@@knurlgnar24 You got away with it :-) I'd still like a diode. I always do now, once bitten...
a messy workshops show intelligence, my excuse is that i have multi projects going on in time with very little space.
What is the recommended discharge current to optimally recondition a battery? Isn't it that there is some trade off between the long reconditioning time, amount of water evaporated, and the level of the good sulfur coming back to the electrochemical reactions? Please explain this part more.
The discharge current matters little. The overcharge amount will determine the water lost.
Good information!
Great video!
I have been having trouble commenting on this videos, so I am giving it another try.
Looks like this one stuck for whatever reason! UA-cam is funny when it comes to filtering comments and is often over-aggressive in filtering spam, advertising, and abusive comments.
@@knurlgnar24 The one on your 1000Ah Battery Bank Part1 is still there. It's the only video that it stuck.
ua-cam.com/video/PbCA8RZqeqk/v-deo.html&lc=UgyN3wwoQSisxFpiHTp4AaABAg
@@knurlgnar24 I really hopped for your help since I have been at this for about two months, but I think that I worked it out. It would appear that using the same process to maintain those large orange deep cycle batteries can be used to recover any FLA or FLA or AGM batteries. I am omitting the manufacturer of those batteries as it may be what has been causing me grief with deleted comments.
What I would like to convey for your videos is that you have so much more to show. From part#2 @ 24+min, the explanation to the internal resistance and capacity are for the most part left aside. How about a 3rd part video to cover these things?
I am asking after spending two summer months of working through this craziness of battery recover. I don't own a fancy electronic load like your Regol to graph a discharge curve. All that I have is a smart charger and an DMM that hook-up in series with my dumb charger.
I finally got myself a DC clamp meter to replace the one that went defective. It's a Klein Tools 400A AC/DC digital clamp meter that I bought at Home Depot in Canada for $105 CAN. I have been wanting this to measure the discharge current from the engine cranking between my cars, snowmobiles and lawn tractor. I want to find the current while cranking the engine to find an adequate discharge current to recover starting batteries.
What I would love to see is how to make a modified sine wave inverter to pure sine wave I know I can get a triplite line conditioner unit that will do that but the video I watched on that the unit was around 100 $unfortunately up here in Canada with our lower dollar it's around 140 $ that not too bad but the killer is the almost 300 $ shipping cost I can buy a new 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter for less years ago before utube I bought a 1750 watt modified sine wave inverter then about 3 years later a friend gave me another one and about 3 years ago my brother bought one for his camper just before he passed away he gave me the camper so I now have 3 1750 modified sine wave inverters since then I found utube and found out that modified sine wave is bad for sensitive electronics and not good for anything with a motor like fridge furnace and pumps that's why I looked into the triplite 1800 line conditioner I've seen your video on how to join 2 together to double the wattage I've also seen a video on how to join 2 together to make a110 220 split phase inverter there's even a video on how to make a a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter but I can't find anything on how to convert what I got to pure sine wave
Hi, I been try this process on a battery of and on for the last few months and I think I gotten some improvement. The Battery is fairly new. And I have gotten a totally dead battery to have a standing voltage of 12.9 volts if it is fully charged. However the capacity reads 200-300 amps on a load tester and the battery is a 900 amp battery. It look like I have a very weak cell next to the negative terminal. When I look into the cell I see definitely sulfaction on the plates and I read very low SG on the cell, and I don't see any bubbles. So it look like I have 5 super strong cells and a near dead cell. So if I can fix this cell I am there. So should I try to keep cycling the battery more a hope to revised the last cell? Should I try Epson cell on the last cell? Should I try to flush and fill the last cell? And I heard I can remove some of the acid solution from this cell and replace it with distill water and keep cycling it and that would help??? thank you
I don't support adding any foreign agents into a lead acid battery as I see no evidence that it actually is effective overall considering all variables, but if you want to try it it's your property and I'm not offended. That cell is likely the primary sulfated cell and it's possible its just too far gone. You can always try to continue the overcharge and cycle approach but it doesn't work for all batteries. Sulfation causes non-reversible damage unfortunately. You clearly reversed a good portion of it already. The industrial approach would be to empty the single bad cell, wash, refill with distilled water, charge the single bad cell to remove sulfation, then refill with acid and charge that single cell to reform. Then rebalance all cells. I doubt that's practical for your battery.
I like how I actually would use battery’s like that for powering my bedroom in an outage
Please demonstrate how to desulfate our election process. I want it to run the way it did in 1787.
Tom Scott has a great video on why electronic voting is a bad thing. None of this today is a surprise. The ONLY way, logically and scientifically, to have a free and fair election is to do it in person the old fashioned way. People don't like hearing that though. BTW I express no opinions of the outcome of this election as this channel is apolitical.
The first Presidential election was in 1788. It wasn't until 1880 that all electors were chosen by votes of the general populace. It wasn't until 1920 when women could vote in every state. It wasn't until 1961 when people in Washington DC could vote for President. It wasn't until 1964 when poll taxes were eliminated for federal elections. The Electoral College is still weird, or more accurately how most states choose electors.
What I'm saying is the election process itself is much better than it was back then. What was better back then was the lack of drama. Everyone could agree on Washington and there wasn't polarization like we have today.
Any differentiations on doing this for a 6V battery versus 12V?
Nope. Just a lower voltage. The rest is the same.
If a car battery charger only uses ~14-15 volts to charge and say 20-30 amps, why are the cables so heavy vs the cables on your CC CV power supply that appars to have 10 ga wire at most? Good video..
Modern car alternators can output 100A to 150A to power all the electronics cars have nowadays. Some can do over 200A. Heavy wiring is needed for such loads and the starter consumes many times more amps - though for a short time. 20 years ago there were instances of fires caused by inadequate design choices of wire gauge on vehicles. e.g. install a 'new' battery that was low on charge and it accepts the full 80A output of your 1999 ford escort and after 10 minutes straight of that current through the 10AWG wire they chose to use and you had a problem.
Trying something similar with a trash picked 12V SLA , but at about 10 times the voltage. (and, at a much much lower current)
What settings do you recommend for a car battery? 30v 2a for awhile?
who say that's battery holding load?