Oh Adam..... That use of the Dead center for indicating the bronze center hole in the jaws.....that blew me away! I've never seen that done before..... But it's brilliant!!! 😉 And don't worry about sounding 'nasal' old buddy....... I think all of us would watch your videos even if you just used sign language -- they're that good!
This is Why i watch you Adam The skill and Professionalism and attention to detail cannot be taught from a book, It has to be hands on real work experience and you even admit when you fail... This is the definition of a master craftsman. God Bless you and Abbie. ❤🙏🏽👊🏽
29:00 I suspect that the power tap generated a good amount of heat expansion in the bronze and the tight spots on the lead screw occurred when the bronze cooled and shrank. Running the tap through a second time by hand on a room temperature part cleared out the few thousandths of shrinkage due to the part cooling.
@@jonka1 I don't think so. The thermal coefficent of expansion for typical bronzes is about 17-20 X 10^-6 (millionths) per degree Celsius. On a part that size it would melt before it expanded "a few thousandths."
I don't think it was only heat expansion. On the next video, notice the pattern on the bottom of the radius. It is convex across the surface. The tap forced the material out. It didn't go back on the ends hence why the tap would start but got tight. An indicator would prove this. Interesting to see. I don't think steel would be so easily distorted.
I used that trick with the live center when I indicated the bronze nut I made for my lathe. You can see the indicating tool I used to finish the indicating procedure in my Part 7 video.
In my experience, making tons and tons of nuts for propellershafts, if you run the tap in dry, it'll fit the first time... Bronze doesn't want to be cut, so if you lube it, you're helping the material win and not the tool 😉 sharp tools and no lube is the way to go 👍
Your video is always excellent. The scene of you loading the hydmech is great! Perfect lighting and focus. Sound is good, strong and clear. Never seen better on broadcast TV!
24:05 That sounds like when I try to open the bathroom door slowly at night. Thanks for the in depth walk through all of this. I know you're slowing yourself down by bringing us along, but it's appreciated. I have some brass to drill some holes in at home, and the reminder about brass wanting to grab probably saved me a nasty surprise with a drill press. I'll probably hand drill it to make sure it doesn't grab.
Hand drilling is even worse than drill press and can break your arm if you’re not careful. Hone a small neutral flat on both cutting edges of drills to remove the “hook” and stop drills from grabbing.
I know 'how' to operate a lathe and milling machine but I'm still little more than an amateur machinist even after almost 60 years a mechanic, I have to say I'm impressed with the way Adam used the dead center and live center to indicate the work! Very cool trick!
I like how when Adam is centering a workpiece, he gets within two or three thou and says, "That's close enough," then keeps going to get it zeroed exactly. "Close enough" just isn't close enough. When it comes to machine work, perfectionism isn't a bug, it's a feature!
Since I am new to machining, I really like videos like this where you show all the steps for indicating an irregular shaped piece in a 4-jaw chuck. Great video! Thank you!
I've learned a lot about machining from you and others on the you-of-tubes. Making things helps me deal Combat Related PTSD (Creative Therapy), and then I sell whatever I make on Etsy (as per my Better Half's "request" (LoL)) The only problem I have being Medically Retired from the work force and not having the funds to stock up on materials such as Brass to keep making things. An I'm sure there are tools that would help as well, but it is what it is. Please keep making great videos that I can learn from; and maybe I'll be able to practice what I'm learning one day.. Take Care and Stay Safe. "Go Hard... Be Humble..."
I remember bronze "shrinking" after boring or tapping. I'm not surprised it was tight. Lovely job on that thread. Looking forward to seeing the rest come together. Thanks for another excellent video.
It took me three attempts to make a bronze lead screw nut for the cross slide of my Colchester Clausing 13" lathe. The third attempt was my forth time to ever cut threads. My very first time cutting threads was last month and they were external. I posted a seven part video series on the nut. The videos explain my struggle. Part 4 shows how I made the second nut work Part five shows how well a 6 TPI nut works on the 5 TPI lead screw. Part 6 shows how I discovered my mistake and Part 7 shows the result of making the correct thread pitch nut. I mentioned your channel as I was indicating the nut on the four jaw because your video on the subject is how I learned how to indicate on the 4 jaw. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I never saw that "dual center" centering trick before. Simple once you see it done, but still very slick. Nice! I was very surprised to see how much tweaking you had to do to indicate & center the part just flipping it around 180 degrees in the 4-jaw chuck after drilling the first through-hole. That's a mini-lesson right there. Oh yeah, and at long last, one of the charter members of Adam's vast tap handle collection finally makes an appearance. Bravo!
I avoided wanting this one because I thought it would be boring. But what I found out is, I was the most interesting video you have made and I want to see the rest of the project. Good job showing the indicator. Please show more content of indicating and getting parts straight.
Great video, Adam. Your explanation and instruction are great. I enjoy seeing you indicate a part. The threading is a nice piece of work with that two-stage tap. I am looking forward to seeing some CNC action as well. Thanks for sharing,
I guess sometimes taps need a spring pass too :-) I expect the power tapping warmed up and expanded the bronze ever so slightly, making the threads on size for that temperature, but then when it cooled to natural temp it was slightly tight again. Edit: Sorry - looks like lots of others commented the exact same thing.
Nice work! If it was me I would cut those radius features first, then turn the remainder in the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck. Gives you more to grip for the milling operation.
all the years I've been Machining, using that dead center and indicator to Center up that hole I've never seen before.. the way I was taught to do it on an offset hole like that in between Jaws was to just use a plain 60° dead center ( or whatever degree Center you have as long as they're mating ) open up the Jaws on the Chuck, use your tail stock and quill to pinpoint and press your work up against the back of the chuck then bring your jaws down to meet your work evenly ..once it's tight, remove your tail stock and dead center that should put you right on the money.. that's the way I was taught.. I wish I had a shop because I'd get up and go down into the shop and test it to see which one's better.. thanks for the tip Adam.. another useful tool for the Arsenal..
Using the live and dead center method is more accurate, Just lining up a center will always be at least a few thousandths out no matter how carefully you try to line it up, the few thousands out really doesn’t matter in this instance but it’s nice to know how to get it dead nuts when needed.
I use the tail stock like that but i wouldn't say it gets dead nuts on, it's a good way to get it close though.. i done that trick yesterday but it's just a burnt out 5/8" thick disc that needs to be bored so a piece of 2" round can be welded in ready for the next opp so a couple of thou out doesn't matter at this stage
That's gonna be a beautiful piece when complete. Too bad that the 1st acme rod went out of whack. Everything is coming together Adam. Can't wait to see that BIG lathe actually make chips...Great Vids👏
Wait until you start learning your CNC lathe..... And find out that, with power driven cross drills in a couple of the turret stations, you can make this entire part in one operation! Right now you're just curious about CNC..... But just wait and see what you can do -- Mr Manual Machinist, it will blow your mind. 🤗
He smiles a lot more these days. I suspect part of it is Abbie and part of it is he is a lost happier building his new shop and getting shiny new stuff... what's not to smile about?
Wow. this is wonderful. Talk about a "machinist's fit." I have watch Abom79 since SNS 2. This is the first one, that I remember, where Adam shows the indicating gauge up close at 22:50. Note that the needle is moving much less than one thousandth. Adam also guesses that he is out by 10 thousandth but it actually was 11 thousandth. This exemplifies why Adam is "Adam Booth Grand Master Machinist" and the rest of us are trying to be.
To keep a twist drill from hogging in brass and bronze put a small flat on the cutting edge no larger than 1/32" parallel to the center line of the drill. This will make the cutting edge 0 degree rake and will stop the pulling.
Double Boost (John Mills) uses a trick for quickly getting it very close, before indicating with the dead centre. With the chuck jaws opened wide, he places the point of the tailstock mounted live centre in the drilled centre, pressing the workpiece against the face of the chuck, and brings the jaws in until they just touch the workpiece, leaving him close to centred.
@@BedsitBob yeah it's just something to cover the hole but then you either have to get it out or tape it in so it doesn't fly out, sometimes it's just easier to indicate in the whole way than stuff around trying to hold parallels and the part while winding the tail stock all at the same time
The up close tool shots were really cool to watch, and I don't think I have ever seen an acme tap quite like that, I have used them that only had the acme cutter before but never both
First of all I love your videos! I’m a novice and I’ve learned a lot watching your videos. I just noticed how you centered the tool bit. I never saw you do that before. I watch Joe Pie. and he showed how to make a height adjustment tool. That’s what I’ve been using with good results, but I’m going to try the way you did it. Thanks for helping this novice!
Any theories as to why it had to be tapped twice? My theory is that power tapping caused the brass to heat up & expand so after it cooled down it was undersized. This explains why the the lead screw was able to start but not go through the nut. The second tapping pass done by hand didn't create much heat so it was able to cut it to size when cold.
The Precision Matthews machine looks exactly like the Colchester machines I used as a student. I guess you can’t improve on excellence. Our training workshop had machines made in the early 1970s. Stavros
my guess with the tapping is that: the powertapping with the flex arm causes allot of heat and makes the brass expand, due to friction of the relatively highspeed tapping with the constant rpm from the flexarm, making the 2nd pass necessary because of shrinkage after the first tapping.
Wish you the best of luck at the Saunders CNC classes. You have a lot of work ahead of you. Cad is another world which takes a bit to get used to. 3d objects on a flat screen takes a bit to get your head around. You'll get there and I can't wait to see what you do with your cnc Machines
Wow! That hydraulic FlexArm is wicked powerful! Does such a great job too. Anyone know the diff in torque that it has vs. the electric one at the new shop? Great tool - now I want one LOL!
Oh Adam..... That use of the Dead center for indicating the bronze center hole in the jaws.....that blew me away! I've never seen that done before..... But it's brilliant!!! 😉
And don't worry about sounding 'nasal' old buddy....... I think all of us would watch your videos even if you just used sign language -- they're that good!
STILL the best machining content on UA-cam...
Hey, nice to see you here, John!
And I agree with you by the way.
This is Why i watch you Adam The skill and Professionalism and attention to detail cannot be taught from a book, It has to be hands on real work experience and you even admit when you fail... This is the definition of a master craftsman. God Bless you and Abbie. ❤🙏🏽👊🏽
I agree completely! Very well said!!!! 👍
29:00 I suspect that the power tap generated a good amount of heat expansion in the bronze and the tight spots on the lead screw occurred when the bronze cooled and shrank. Running the tap through a second time by hand on a room temperature part cleared out the few thousandths of shrinkage due to the part cooling.
Yes I'm sure that's likely.
@@jonka1 I don't think so. The thermal coefficent of expansion for typical bronzes is about 17-20 X 10^-6 (millionths) per degree Celsius. On a part that size it would melt before it expanded "a few thousandths."
I don't think it was only heat expansion. On the next video, notice the pattern on the bottom of the radius. It is convex across the surface. The tap forced the material out. It didn't go back on the ends hence why the tap would start but got tight. An indicator would prove this. Interesting to see. I don't think steel would be so easily distorted.
Using the dead center to indicate off of was one of the coolest indicating tricks I have seen you do. Thanks for showing that!
I used that trick with the live center when I indicated the bronze nut I made for my lathe.
You can see the indicating tool I used to finish the indicating procedure in my Part 7 video.
In my experience, making tons and tons of nuts for propellershafts, if you run the tap in dry, it'll fit the first time... Bronze doesn't want to be cut, so if you lube it, you're helping the material win and not the tool 😉 sharp tools and no lube is the way to go 👍
So the oil allows the tap to slide and not to sheer?
Well this is an interesting comment lol. Now I'm confused as hell! 🤣
@@iamkilroiyo that's my experience 👍
Your video is always excellent. The scene of you loading the hydmech is great! Perfect lighting and focus. Sound is good, strong and clear. Never seen better on broadcast TV!
24:05 That sounds like when I try to open the bathroom door slowly at night.
Thanks for the in depth walk through all of this. I know you're slowing yourself down by bringing us along, but it's appreciated. I have some brass to drill some holes in at home, and the reminder about brass wanting to grab probably saved me a nasty surprise with a drill press. I'll probably hand drill it to make sure it doesn't grab.
It sounds like the refrigerator door when taking a sneaky snack in the middle of night.
Hand drilling is even worse than drill press and can break your arm if you’re not careful.
Hone a small neutral flat on both cutting edges of drills to remove the “hook” and stop drills from grabbing.
Oh, I mean arm power only, no motor.
That dead center technique was really cool!
Love that Fex Arm. Done a fair amount of rigid tapping on my mill but that little bit of wiggle room and the hydro drive - seems like the bees knees.
I just love videos. I love watching them on Saturday afternoons just relaxing
Clever use of the centres for dialing that nut in. Respect!
I know 'how' to operate a lathe and milling machine but I'm still little more than an amateur machinist even after almost 60 years a mechanic, I have to say I'm impressed with the way Adam used the dead center and live center to indicate the work!
Very cool trick!
Adam eye-balls it and says 'probably 10 thousandths' then measures it at 11 thousandths :)) a master at work
I like how when Adam is centering a workpiece, he gets within two or three thou and says, "That's close enough," then keeps going to get it zeroed exactly. "Close enough" just isn't close enough. When it comes to machine work, perfectionism isn't a bug, it's a feature!
I was thinking the same thing! 😂 like man that guy is good!
I don't know, Adam...... You better get your eyeball recalibrated...... You were off by a thousandth or two! 😉
When you stated that you were excited about trying out that giant acme tap I could picture your flex arm going, "Oh Jesus!".
Thanks for taking the time to show a few different set ups for indicating a part in the 4 jaw. I find that helpful.
I love that technique for centering on a small hole. Definitely going to have to remember that one
Thanks for the tip.
That pic sure as heck looks like the pipes I made in high school metal shop....41 years ago! :~)
Good stuff Adam! The lighting and video footage in the new shop looks amazing. :)
Since I am new to machining, I really like videos like this where you show all the steps for indicating an irregular shaped piece in a 4-jaw chuck. Great video! Thank you!
Want to see off-center machining, head over to CEE AUS, The piece he machined was 6" thick & 8-10" long. Bet that was an off center load.
GreT to see you working between the two shops.
Great convenience.
Good work on the bronze parts too.👍
it was very cool that you used a piece of material that your dad had handled for this project,excellent content as always.
Fun watching the new shop full then empty then full. :}
I've learned a lot about machining from you and others on the you-of-tubes. Making things helps me deal Combat Related PTSD (Creative Therapy), and then I sell whatever I make on Etsy (as per my Better Half's "request" (LoL)) The only problem I have being Medically Retired from the work force and not having the funds to stock up on materials such as Brass to keep making things. An I'm sure there are tools that would help as well, but it is what it is.
Please keep making great videos that I can learn from; and maybe I'll be able to practice what I'm learning one day.. Take Care and Stay Safe.
"Go Hard... Be Humble..."
I remember bronze "shrinking" after boring or tapping. I'm not surprised it was tight. Lovely job on that thread. Looking forward to seeing the rest come together. Thanks for another excellent video.
...the way I figured it, was the hole in the bronze was expanded during the tapping process, and then it shrunk again- that's why the screw was tight.
You have to pay a few cents more for the non-shrinking bronze. Apparently Adam did this job "on the cheap"! 😋
@@johndonlan5956 ...as I recall, Adam was using material that he had on hand.
Sorry Dale, I was just making a joke. There is no such thing as non-shrinking bronze.
@@johndonlan5956 ...I didn't think so.
It took me three attempts to make a bronze lead screw nut for the cross slide of my Colchester Clausing 13" lathe.
The third attempt was my forth time to ever cut threads.
My very first time cutting threads was last month and they were external.
I posted a seven part video series on the nut.
The videos explain my struggle.
Part 4 shows how I made the second nut work
Part five shows how well a 6 TPI nut works on the 5 TPI lead screw.
Part 6 shows how I discovered my mistake and Part 7 shows the result of making the correct thread pitch nut.
I mentioned your channel as I was indicating the nut on the four jaw because your video on the subject is how I learned how to indicate on the 4 jaw.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I'd go for a "Loosen Lows, Tighten Highs" T-shirt
cool trick indicating with the dead center!
Your Dad's shop keeps providing! Nice video Adam.
I absolutely love to watch bronze or brass chips fly! Great video! Spring pass on the tap did the trick. I guess the whole world really is a spring.
Sir, you are an artist.
Great vid. Get well soon have a speedy recovery.
Nice, Fun & Interesting to see the new equipment and old pieces like the lathe tool holders working together.
I never saw that "dual center" centering trick before. Simple once you see it done, but still very slick. Nice!
I was very surprised to see how much tweaking you had to do to indicate & center the part just flipping it around 180 degrees in the 4-jaw chuck after drilling the first through-hole. That's a mini-lesson right there.
Oh yeah, and at long last, one of the charter members of Adam's vast tap handle collection finally makes an appearance. Bravo!
Bronze always closes down after cutting, we used to allow +,002" on diameters to allow for this.
That big acme tap is gonna be something else! Great to see you using your new machines to work on fixing the vintage one.
I avoided wanting this one because I thought it would be boring. But what I found out is, I was the most interesting video you have made and I want to see the rest of the project. Good job showing the indicator. Please show more content of indicating and getting parts straight.
I really like how you found center at 10:00, that's cool.
Great video, Adam. Your explanation and instruction are great. I enjoy seeing you indicate a part. The threading is a nice piece of work with that two-stage tap. I am looking forward to seeing some CNC action as well. Thanks for sharing,
Ya gotta love it when a plan comes together Maestro.🙃
I guess sometimes taps need a spring pass too :-) I expect the power tapping warmed up and expanded the bronze ever so slightly, making the threads on size for that temperature, but then when it cooled to natural temp it was slightly tight again.
Edit: Sorry - looks like lots of others commented the exact same thing.
Nice work! If it was me I would cut those radius features first, then turn the remainder in the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck. Gives you more to grip for the milling operation.
all the years I've been Machining, using that dead center and indicator to Center up that hole I've never seen before.. the way I was taught to do it on an offset hole like that in between Jaws was to just use a plain 60° dead center ( or whatever degree Center you have as long as they're mating ) open up the Jaws on the Chuck, use your tail stock and quill to pinpoint and press your work up against the back of the chuck then bring your jaws down to meet your work evenly ..once it's tight, remove your tail stock and dead center that should put you right on the money.. that's the way I was taught.. I wish I had a shop because I'd get up and go down into the shop and test it to see which one's better.. thanks for the tip Adam.. another useful tool for the Arsenal..
Using the live and dead center method is more accurate, Just lining up a center will always be at least a few thousandths out no matter how carefully you try to line it up, the few thousands out really doesn’t matter in this instance but it’s nice to know how to get it dead nuts when needed.
I use the tail stock like that but i wouldn't say it gets dead nuts on, it's a good way to get it close though.. i done that trick yesterday but it's just a burnt out 5/8" thick disc that needs to be bored so a piece of 2" round can be welded in ready for the next opp so a couple of thou out doesn't matter at this stage
Glad you are well Adam
That's gonna be a beautiful piece when complete. Too bad that the 1st acme rod went out of whack. Everything is coming together Adam. Can't wait to see that BIG lathe actually make chips...Great
Vids👏
thanks Adam
"Loosen your lows, tighten your highs!" - a great title for a Country n' Western song.
I am sure I echo all your followers in wishing you a very fast recovery. Get well soon.
Wait until you start learning your CNC lathe..... And find out that, with power driven cross drills in a couple of the turret stations, you can make this entire part in one operation!
Right now you're just curious about CNC..... But just wait and see what you can do -- Mr Manual Machinist, it will blow your mind. 🤗
...nothing like sharp tools and new machinery! :D
24:49 a rare sight, a genuine Abom Smile
He smiles a lot more these days. I suspect part of it is Abbie and part of it is he is a lost happier building his new shop and getting shiny new stuff... what's not to smile about?
Wow. this is wonderful. Talk about a "machinist's fit." I have watch Abom79 since SNS 2. This is the first one, that I remember, where Adam shows the indicating gauge up close at 22:50. Note that the needle is moving much less than one thousandth. Adam also guesses that he is out by 10 thousandth but it actually was 11 thousandth. This exemplifies why Adam is "Adam Booth Grand Master Machinist" and the rest of us are trying to be.
I was getting quite excited to view the cutting of lefthand thread on the lathe. The tap was an alternative method. Nice relaxed video.
Que trabalho perfeito amigo Adam!!!
Grande abraço daqui do Brasil a todos aí!!!
That’s an ABOM size flex arm, so impressive how much torque that has!
Squeal! LOL nice work Adam.
awesome job Buddy
Don't be blaming Abbie I learn something new every time one of your vids airs Thanks A&A
To keep a twist drill from hogging in brass and bronze put a small flat on the cutting edge no larger than 1/32" parallel to the center line of the drill.
This will make the cutting edge 0 degree rake and will stop the pulling.
That's exactly what an old tool maker taught me years ago!
At 29:00 when you were manually tapping the hole my dog was really concerned with the squeaking. He must have thought something was in pain.
Double Boost (John Mills) uses a trick for quickly getting it very close, before indicating with the dead centre.
With the chuck jaws opened wide, he places the point of the tailstock mounted live centre in the drilled centre, pressing the workpiece against the face of the chuck, and brings the jaws in until they just touch the workpiece, leaving him close to centred.
I know...not workin here, cause of the big trough hole in his chuck.
That only works on larger parts unless you stick something behind it so it doesn't disappear up the head stock
@@markshort9098 You mean like a parallel?
@@BedsitBob yeah it's just something to cover the hole but then you either have to get it out or tape it in so it doesn't fly out, sometimes it's just easier to indicate in the whole way than stuff around trying to hold parallels and the part while winding the tail stock all at the same time
Sorry your sniffer is stopped up! Glad you got it hoovered. Hope it comes back 100% right!
I have to say you make some excellent videos
Always learn something new regarding setting up and taking measurements. Thanks very much for sharing.
amazing how much the heat swell from the taping affects Bronze can affect the size.
This could have been a good candidate for thread milling on your cnc mill
probably a pretty expensive thread milling cutter i would bet.
Sounds like a good workout
Yeah, because threadmilling is a great thing to start doing for a beginner who just got his first CNC… 😂
@@bucknaked31 Im sorry? You ovbiiusly start on CNC cylinder head porting, of course!
Now that's a proper sized tap :)
The up close tool shots were really cool to watch, and I don't think I have ever seen an acme tap quite like that, I have used them that only had the acme cutter before but never both
Learned something. Centering the square stocks center drill hole with a 4 jaw. Thanks!
First of all I love your videos! I’m a novice and I’ve learned a lot watching your videos. I just noticed how you centered the tool bit. I never saw you do that before. I watch Joe Pie. and he showed how to make a height adjustment tool. That’s what I’ve been using with good results, but I’m going to try the way you did it.
Thanks for helping this novice!
I don’t have telegram to reply back from email I received.🤷♂️
Muy buen trabajo maestro 👍
So long since I used inches and fractions. Thanks for sharing
Excellent work as always 👏👏
Speedy recovery and thank to share it with us!! Amazing job as usual!
I love the sound of brass or bronze being turned on a lathe.
Would have loved to have seen how you counter weight the chuck in order to increase speed.
Thanks for sharing
Man that tap used up some torque but the machine kept up no problem. Thats a lot of power concentrated in that little bitty hole.
Your hand tapping near the end got the dog's attention!
Ditto! 😁
Get well soon! Big Guy !
Any theories as to why it had to be tapped twice? My theory is that power tapping caused the brass to heat up & expand so after it cooled down it was undersized. This explains why the the lead screw was able to start but not go through the nut. The second tapping pass done by hand didn't create much heat so it was able to cut it to size when cold.
Nailed it. It's what happens with brass or bronze when tapping straight through and not stopping especially with ACME threads
Wow, just learned something new!! Thanks guys!!
The Precision Matthews machine looks exactly like the Colchester machines I used as a student. I guess you can’t improve on excellence. Our training workshop had machines made in the early 1970s.
Stavros
That flex arm is the coolest thing ever. I don't even do any machining and I want one
That tapping was amazing to watch. I do not understand the geometry of that tap but interesting, just the same.
He explained it a few videos ago. The first section cuts the threads and the second section cuts the shape of the threads
First section is cutting same pitch 60°V Threads to get some material away, second Section cuts the actual Acme Thread
Cool job Adam. Enjoy watching a pro at work...I never noticed the glitch in the video.
my guess with the tapping is that: the powertapping with the flex arm causes allot of heat and makes the brass expand, due to friction of the relatively highspeed tapping with the constant rpm from the flexarm, making the 2nd pass necessary because of shrinkage after the first tapping.
Россия смотрит !!! Ваша работа завораживает !!! Мира и добра !
ADAM, YOU WERE SOUNDING BETTER BY THE END OF THE VIDEO, GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO...
i wish you good luck with this
I took a lesson about indexing.
Thanks.
Nice thank you👍🏻🇺🇸 know cool to see all other things going on , but nice to see some work getting done !
You could put it in the freezer for a few minutes then run the tap through again too if if was still too tight...
That's a good idea but there would be more clearance grains to be had by heating the tap in boiling water or hot oil if even more clearance was needed
Wish you the best of luck at the Saunders CNC classes. You have a lot of work ahead of you. Cad is another world which takes a bit to get used to. 3d objects on a flat screen takes a bit to get your head around. You'll get there and I can't wait to see what you do with your cnc Machines
Cool saw
Interesting seeing this today I just literally did the same exact thing at work the other day lmao
Good work 👍
Wow! That hydraulic FlexArm is wicked powerful! Does such a great job too. Anyone know the diff in torque that it has vs. the electric one at the new shop? Great tool - now I want one LOL!
I'm not exactly sure what you did with the videography on the close-ups in this episode but it looks great. Something magical happening there!
Omslachtig werk, dat eerste gat!
That was a fun one to watch Adam!