No Drive Or Reverse.. Transmission Fixed For $25? Transmission 5R55S 5R55N 5R55E 5R55W 4R44E 4R55E
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- Опубліковано 16 лип 2024
- Time Stamps (Parts List and Links Below)
Intro 0:00
Symptoms No Drive Or Reverse 0:53
General Thought Process On Troubleshooting 1:57
Over Drive Sprag 4:18
Front Transmission Pump Bolt Removal 4:36
How To Use Transmission Front Pump Puller 4:55
Over Drive Band and Drum Removal 6:17
Over Drive Gear Set Removal 9:02
Separate Over Drive Gear Set 9:36
Early Warning Signs and Symptom Overview 10:40
Over Drive Sprag Removal 11:11
What is the Over Drive Sprag? 11:38
Planetary Gear Inspection 13:00
Other Preventative Maintenance 13:24
Models that use this transmission..
5R44/ 5R55 Models:
1997 Ford Aerostar (with 4.0 V6 engine)
1997-2011 Ford Ranger
1997-2010 North American Mazda B-Series
1997-2010 Ford Explorer[2]
1998-2010 Mercury Mountaineer
2000-2003 Jaguar S-Type
2000-2006 Lincoln LS
2002-2005 Ford Thunderbird
2005-2010 Ford Mustang
2008-2010 Ford Falcon
2003-2005 Lincoln Aviator
4R44/ 4R55 Models:
1995-2001 Ford Ranger
1995-1997 Ford Aerostar
1995-1998 Ford Scorpio
1995-1996 Ford Explorer
1995-2001 North American Mazda B-Series
Overview:
Ford Mustang, Ford Explorer, Ford Ranger, Mercury Mountaineer, Transmission shifting perfect then all of a sudden one day it won't go forward or reverse? You read all the forums and all they say is the transmission needs to be rebuilt and all for the shops want $1800 - $2400 to rebuild it. Or are you looking for a side hustle and you keep seeing mustangs, explorers and rangers on marketplace and craigslist with bad transmission no forward or reverse, this could either save you a lot of money or make you a lot of money depending on your situation, but I really hope this video helps you out..
I ran into a very common problem associated with the S197 mustangs..
It started out one day getting on the highway when we floored it to get over, instead of just going like usual, the motor revved high like the car was in neutral and we didn't accelerate at all, after a few seconds it finally caught and I made it to work. The car ran fine for a few months, the same exact thing happened again but this time to my wife. The car ran fine for about another week and it happened one last time, this time when she made it home, the car would no longer accelerate forward or in reverse and we knew we were in for a rebuild. The cheapest local shop wanted $1800 for a turn key operation. After trial and error and a lot of research, I have narrowed down this very common problem to a $25 part, The Over Drive Sprag. The Over Drive Sprag is a one way bearing that acts as a clutch and when it fails it doesn't lock up when it is suppose to, which allows the gears to spin inside of the transmission instead of sending power to the wheels. If you replace this part at the early warning sign I have given you above then you reduce the risk of damaging any other parts, or breaking down and being stranded due to it's failure.
In total I spent around $500,
If your fluid is clean when you check it you may not need to replace torque converter, fluid or filter, you may re-use them, but it is recommended to replace all of these things as preventative maintenance while going thru this process, but if you were to only replace the sprag itself you should be able to drive again for around $25..
Parts List..
Reman Torque Converter
bit.ly/31f7jNx
12 Quarts Mercon V
amzn.to/3mERLLx
Trans Filter
amzn.to/3ynPJDs
Trans Pump Reseal Kit
ebay.to/3bzrXKn
Overdrive Sprag
amzn.to/3F0hgxC
Trans Front Pump Puller
amzn.to/3DMl04g
Related Part Numbers:
5R55S 5R55N 5R55E 5R55W 4R44E 4R55E 5R44E
273-4401
50001BW
27960D
50001
56650H
A56650H
BWK1310362
H00994 - Навчання та стиль
Man I was less than 24 hours from either scrapping my car or saving for a trans. I’ve never done trans work but I am a mechanic in the airforce and am a quick learner. This just saved me thousands that I don’t have. Thank you so much for this video. I’ll leave a comment on the results
I’m really glad you didn’t scrap it, I was in the same situation. Good luck and yes please let me know how it works out..
What you end up doin?
Just to update everyone, The transmission is back together and the car is driving again, but I think I will make a video on the transmission relearn procedure because it is necessary after performing this repair.. I really hope this helps someone, this literally saved me thousands of dollars.. Remember any job is a balance of Quality, Speed, and Price.. If you need it done right and done fast take it to a shop, but it will cost more.. If you want it done right and you want it done cheap, do it yourself. It may take longer, but it will definitely be cheaper.. Just don't get in a rush, Take your time and make sure it's right so you only have to do it once.. There are a lot of 5R55 teardown videos out there, take advantage of them, it could be worth thousands..
Hey man I’m planing on doing this to my transmission because I have the same issue, is the video about the relearn procedure up? Or any suggestion of where I could find it?
@@Tonyrl103 I haven’t posted it, but what you need to do is from a complete stop, accelerate thru all of the gears without going over 50mph.. then slowly come to a complete stop and repeat.. The first time it will shift a little rough then it will get better each time.. You need to do this at least 5 - 10 times.. then just drive the car normally for the first 500 miles and the computer will relearn the proper shift pattern for the way you drive the car..
@@williamblanks8500 thanks man! You saved me a lot of money! I appreciate it!
@@Tonyrl103 awesome to hear, really glad I could help..
@@williamblanks8500 how can you accelerate thru every gear yet not break 50? you mean slowly accelerate? will it go into 4th under 50? or overdrive?
Incredible man you're a life saver. Found you on the forums. Tearing apart the trans today and we will see if this is the issue!
What’s up my guy! Absolutely fantastic video. I got every piece of information and visual anyone could need to do this themselves. Thank you! 👍🏻
You literally just explained my exact situation!! I’m gonna just order all the parts in the description and hope for the best!
Thanks for this video. I am having the same issue. Won’t get it fixed any time soon because I’m in school but I’ll be studying on getting this done!!
Great vid William !!
thank you so much for sharing, most like that's the problem with my Ford Explorer.
I use utube alot to do work on my 04 ranger. Right my transmission (automatic) isn't like it should into 4th and my rpm's stay above 2000 going 60 or 65 mph. Transmission shop says it shifting fine and it shows no problems when hooked up to the scanner. I don't really trust mechanic's. But your video is very informative and I like how you point out and explain everything you are doing and why. Great video please keeping making videos like this.
Well done young man!
Thank you!!!
Having exact same problem with a amazing cond. 2006 for a steal for this reason thank you man 🙏
Awesome video I thank Yah for this info, I pray I can help my brother who lost his forward in his f150
Do you know which year it is or which transmission is in his truck? Which gears did it lose and which gears are working?
Thank you, going to tear it down again and check this tomorrow.
You’re welcome.. if the problems are similar then I’m betting this is the problem
Good looks bro loved the video
Heads up, you do not need to mess with the servos to get the band off. You can back off the bolt on the opposite side to loosen the band.
Awesome stuff man, I will be pulling my wife's transmission apart tonight.
Thank you so much for sharing! My son just bought his first car a 2008 V6 Mustang. Not even 3 weeks later it started doing this! Every forum was saying rebuild, rebuild. Yes we were worried because he just got it to have to spend major repair $ Again thank you! Will update you if this is exactly what it was.
Yes, I haven't had this one a whole year yet.. but it is back together now and driving pretty good. I think most people sell the car at the first sign and pass the problem to someone else.. Thankfully I didn't have to spend $1800 for a complete rebuild and hopefully now you won't either. Glad I could help and yes please keep me updated..
@@williamblanks8500 Nope!!! Shop just called back with up to $2400 rebuild, they said with the mileage on the car other things should be replaced converter & everything internal would be best to just get it done with a two year warranty
@@who9565 I do recommend replacing the convertor, its about $150 for a remanufactured one.. It depends on the fluid. If the fluid is off colored (grayish or brown), that means the convertor is probably eating itself up.. If the fluid is pretty and red and there isn't much metal in the fluid you can probably get by without replacing it. The problem is if you don't replace it now then you will need to pull the trans again to replace it later if it is bad and there isn't a way to open it up and check it. If the car was shifting fine through all of the gears but just stopped one day and its acting like the car in the video, then I'm pretty sure just the Sprag is the problem. The reason a shop won't just replace the sprag is because once they open the transmission up they want to replace everything because they are already there. I replaced the converter ($150).. The fluid and filter ($100 fluid, $30 filter). The OD Sprag ($25), The 2 OD friction clutches ($20), a reseal kit for the front pump ($20), and a home made fluid pump ($40) I paid a friend $200 to help me pull the transmission out and put it back. about $600 total.. The only part that was actually broken was the Sprag, but the fluid had a lot of metal in it to.. If you have all of the parts ready before you start, and you are mechanically inclined then this can be fixed in a weekend.. If the car was having problems shifting through the gears or having other problems before this happened then I recommend a complete rebuild.. If there is no metal in the fluid, then you can drain and save most of it, you can probably get by with just the sprag, filter, and reseal kit, and enough fluid to top it off around $100 especially if you do all the labor yourself or if you have some "free" help lol..
Thank you 👍
I'm having the same problem, I had my transmission replaced on my ford explorer 2 yrs and now I can't get any power in drive or reverse, I'm able to drive in 3rd..going to check everything you mentioned before I get another transmission..Thank you so much for your advice..God Bless
Mines having the same issue only able to drive in 3rd, what did you end up having to do?
I believe u saved me thousands brother appreciation for this ima try it out!
Happy I could help you out and thanks for watching.. If you have any questions just let me know..
@@williamblanks8500 if i got 175k miles should i just replace whole transmission? Tho because its old or still take apart and try myself to rebuild
@@moneymakin_ro9486 how did it go out? Was it driving fine and just went out one day? Or was it already having other problems shifting through the gears?
@@moneymakin_ro9486 mine has about 165,000.. the fluid had a lot of metal in it from the torque converter going bad, I'm pretty sure that's what caused the sprag to go bad in my case.. The car was shifting perfect for me except 3 different times getting onto the interstate trying to accelerate fast, the car acted like it went into neutral on its own.. the 3rd time this happened it made it home, then it acted like in the video here it wouldn't move anymore.. So when I learned about the sprag and I took it apart and actually looked at it. The frictions and the band all looked fine they had normal wear and could last maybe another 100,000 miles.. the sprag was the only thing broken.. I am the guinea pig here tho because I had the exact same question.. I replaced the sprag, the torque converter, the fluid, and filter.. After doing the relearn procedure, which is, coming to a complete stop then accelerating to 5th gear but not over 50 mph.. then repeating 5-10 times until the shifts level off.. My wife has been driving the car everyday for about 3 weeks now.. at least 100 miles per day and it's driving like a new car again and a lot easier to accelerate than it ever has been since we bought the car.. Idk how long it's going to last yet but if something happens I will make an update in the comments or description of this video and probably make a new video.. but so far so good.. I'm the type of person who would rather pay a few hundred and learn how to rebuild it than pay $2000 and not really learn anything from it.. And we have no way of really knowing if they are only replacing the sprag too if u take it to the shop.. The major question is do u have more money or do u have more time.. if you have more money than time buy it rebuilt.. if you have more time than you have money replace only what's broken so u can ride again cheap as possible..
@@williamblanks8500 i appreciate u 100% bro u fully explained this i fw u bro goodlooking
saved me too
thanks for the video
No problem bro.. I’ve said it in a few comments so far but not in the video… if u are gonna do this, go ahead and throw in a transgo shift kit as a preventative maintenance.. keep fresh fluid in it, change it at least 1 time every 2 years.. and it should last a long time..
Are you sent from god thank you for showing fr
No more than anyone else lol.. but glad this helped..
Holy shit thank you so friggin much !!!!!!!!
I've always thought of myself as mechanical and handy, usually do all my work on my cars and friends/family myself but never considered a transmission as it just seemed overwhelming. Your video makes me think I can take on that task with my 07 stang 4.0. While my transmission issue is different, lost 2nd gear with a scraping/dragging noise (and probably overdrive since they use the same band, will find that out here another day), I might tear it down now. For now I can still put the automatic in 3rd and drive around and still have reverse. Just wanted to give you those kudos. If you have a thought about my specific issue that would be great too. All the shops around me also say a complete rebuild!
Did you ever figure it out? Ive got a similar issue...
@@benchesnut3715 nope, been driving it in 3rd then putting it in D with OD off since then. Doing just fine that way so far. Since I can still drive it i didn't want to make it worse by tearing it apart. Il do that if I find a cheap junker tranny or it fails.
@@benchesnut3715i assume the band or second piston is toast. I actually was able to drive it around almost another year in 3rd and 4th gear. Recently the reverse started going out on me. So I have dropped the pan and found only a few small metal pieces. Going to try adjusting the bands, new filter and fluid and see.
SO For the people asking how do you get the transmission bolt at 2 o'clock out? at least on the explorer it was pretty simple ,I strung together every extension for my 3/8 " socket even using a 3/8breakover wrench that has a female 3/8 attachment and turning its 90 degree to north so as to use it as an additional extension and all together it was over 2 feet long with a metric 13 or 14 i forget i got back behind the transmission and went straight at the bolt by going over the top. no knuckle needed but listen that bolt is what anchors the 2 fuel lines that come from the tanks or pump and they need to pop out of that l shaped bracket and ideally you want that bracket out, away from the trans. I didn't remove it and 90% of the struggle i had getting the trans out was the bracket digging into the foil insulation. it was tricky because the fuel tank has been designed to use all available room and i ended up having to jack the back of the motor up so as to point the transmission down then it popped out easily. I could just pick it off the floor and onto a bench. right at 300 pounds drained. I also took the time to chisel out of a 12 inch square 2x12 a matching 2.5 inch deep round concave indention so that my pan didn't get harmed in the removal. pulled the pump and super clean so far should know if its the sprag by tomorrow. I will let you know!!!
Yes please keep us updated.. I would really like to know if that’s the issue that you are having or not..
I just bought a 2008 coupe, last friday. Tuesday evening, I heard a loud popping noise, then it wouldn't go into reverse or drive. I can feel it go into the gears, but it wont move, or barely moves. Car drives good using 1, 2, 3. Today, I got the sprag delivered. I haven't dropped the transmission yet. I am praying the only problem is the sprag. If it is, this video will save me.
it has been a couple years and i have built quite a few transmissions since then, but this is the one that got me started.. My advice is as follows.. Almost every transmission fails due to a pressure rise issue.. Pressure test the transmission before you pull it, make sure the pressure can rise properly when commanded by the PCM.. If it can, then u might be ok just swapping the sprag.. That being said.. disassemble the entire transmission.. check the clutch packs, they work exactly like brakes and rotors.. they should all stack level to the snap ring groove of the clutch pack.. if any clutchpack is burned up, go ahead and replace all of them.. check the bands, check the pump, check the bearings.. replace anything that needs it.. if everything looks good then only replace the sprag.. while u have it apart install a transgo 5r55s shift kit to help it last forever.. u will be stasfied that you did in the long run..
thank you
so william in hiram Gutierez video "5r55s valve body- 5R55S TRANSMISSION video thats 18.07 long go to minute 11 and he says the soleiniod regulator in the valve body if stuck open can cause the effect of small amount of reverse but breaks free and spins if you accelerate which is exactly what mine is doing so mine may only need that repaired..will know soon.
Yes I have watched a few of his videos.. i just checked out the video that you were talking about. So what he is saying is correct if the valves get stuck then it could cause the weak reverse issue. It should be simple to tell the difference between the two without pulling the transmission out. If the sprag is the problem then the transmission probably won’t throw any codes because the valve body should be working properly. If a valve is stuck then he is saying it should be throwing a transmission code. I’m my case the car wasn’t throwing any transmission codes. Another thing to consider is if a valve got stuck then what caused it. Usually if a valve gets stuck it’s because there is debris in the transmission fluid from a part that is failing. It could be clutch friction material, it could be a damaged hard part in the tranny, or it could be metal shavings from a failed torque converter.. So if the valve is stuck u may be able to remove only the valve body and free the sticking valves but before you put it back u probably should check everything to make sure nothing else is damaged..
If the fluid is really clean and the transmission isn’t throwing any codes at all then the sprag is probably the culprit..
Do you have a video on how to put it back together
there is a replacement servo kit you can buy for $100 they put a sleeve on them to stop them from taring up the transmission housing eazy pezey
I wanna tear it back down and do a full rebuild now that I have a little more experience with it and that will be part of the process.. probably around next summer.. it’s still driving good for now so I don’t really want to mess with it..
Thanks man please upload video how to relearn TCM after
I will definitely do it,
but basically you want to start a 0 mph accelerate thru all 5 gears without going over 50mph, then quick return to a complete stop for 3-5 seconds..
You repeat this process about 5-10 times until the shifts smooth out, then you drive it normally for the first 500 miles to finish the relearn process..
If you don't do the relearn the car won't shift correctly and you will think something is wrong with it..
The first few times you do it, the shifts will be off but it will level out more and more each time..
My 05 mustang has weak reverse right now. Can not back up a slight slope. If I give gas, it feels like on neutral. The forward is normal. Will it be the OD sprag issue? Thank you!
I've got an 08' ford exploder with the 5R55S transmission, when shifted into any gear, the truck just revs and barely lurches forward....essentially not moving at all..
Do you think this procedure will do the trick?
I am having issues with 96 ranger automatic transmission. No reverse or drive only works in 1st and 2nd gear. Thanks for the upload.
Yes sir, I’m pretty sure that’s the problem
@@williamblanks8500 doin my homework thanks this was a very helpful upload 👍
@@Norcaljourneyman no problem, glad the video helped you out..
If I start the car in the morning, go in reverse, then put it in drive, there's a delay before it goes to first gear. Now the car doesn't move in both drive and reverse. What do you think could be the issue?
So my overdrive planet came out leaving the ring gear and center shaft with the snap ring . When I reassembled it it feels sturdy but if I turn it with the shaft to the ground the planet and ring gear come apart but the ring gear and center shaft are still together. Am I not seating the ring gear properly
mine doing the same thing but i have to go manual 1,2,3 then D when i get to 40 then it switch to 4th gear nd 5t would the overdrive sprag be the problem?
2010 mercury mountaineer 4.0L AWD just no reverse feel engage and slightly move all forward gears ok is it the band ?? thanks!
I think those are the EcoBoost rims
Anyone on here know why I can’t pull out my input shaft?
thats normal on these transmissions, just make sure you dont put it in backwards or you will have problems with the torque converter binding up when you are putting it back in..
@@williamblanks8500 edited my comment, I can’t get the input shaft out of the overdrive planetary
So I’m having the same problems. I have a 2009 mustang gtcs with a 5R55S transmission and I put it into drive leaving work today and it just revved up like I was in neutral and would barely grab the gears. Reverse pretty much did the same thing until I got home and tried reverse again, then it stated to grab again. Drive still didn’t work at all. I had to drive back home (about 25 mins on back roads) in the 1,2 and 3 slap shift mode and they were working fine other than shifting into gears harder than normal. I just wanna make sure that the sprag is the only thing I have to replace bc I don’t wanna drop 2700 bucks. Thank you!
I have a detailed list of all parts in the description, but it boils down to if u don't see any grit in the fluid then sprag only, and the reseal kit for the pump..
If you see grit in the fluid it's probably from the torque converter, so replace the torque converter, the fluid, the filter, and clean everything to remove the grit..
If your trans was working perfectly before and not slipping then it didn't damage the clutch frictions..
The last thing you will need is a fluid pump to top off the fluid when you put it back together..
There are a lot of 5R55S teardown videos on UA-cam that go thru all of the details so I didn't remake those.. I just broke it down to if you have this problem then this is the specific part that is causing it... To me it definitely sounds like the sprag is your problem and if you are mechanically inclined enough to pull the trans and put it back yourself, then this is only a few extra steps.. and the sprag itself is less than $30
I appreciate it a lot. I love the car but I was thinking about a whole trans rebuild was gonna be the case before I saw the forums and your video that you posted so I had some home. Gonna take it apart on Monday to see the diagnosis
@@SquigglySiggly good luck, let me know how it goes..
Was that the problem?
@@justinbatten3 still in the shop. Getting it rebuilt sadly. Checked the transmission fluid and it was smelling crispier than a baked potato in the desert that got left there for a year lol
Internal "Snap" Retaining Ring
I’m about to buy a 2007 v6 4.0 with the same problems you were having, I messaged my transmission mechanic buddy and he told me it was going to be it band in the very back of the trans and I would need to rebuild the whole trans… finding this I’m confident the issue is the same. Do you happen to have a video of the transmission removal process?
Sorry I didn’t make a video about the removal or installation process.. usually rear wheels drives are all about the same.. drop the drive shaft, remove battery cables, then starter, then torque converter bolts.. some cars you may need to drop the exhaust some you won’t.. removal all transmission lines, plug ins, shift cables, etc.. support the transmission from the bottom with a floor jack with a block of wood on top about the size of the transmission pan.. remove bell housing bolts and remaining transmission mounts.. Lower transmission.. make sure torque converter is free from flywheel before dropping.. to install do the opposite of removal..
@@williamblanks8500 thanks for the quick reply! This mustang I’m about to pick up, the engine runs perfectly, she said her husband was driving it one day and came to a stoplight and when the light turned green it wouldn’t go. So I feel like I would be an idiot if I didn’t buy the car…. $700 with a really straight body (need to replace windshield cause people like to throw cinderblocks around here) do you mind giving you email so I can contact you directly? You seem very knowledgeable with the mustangs
@@Jordan-qv3py definitely sounds like that could be the problem.. I have ran across a few of them since making this video, ford rangers too.. and yes kocent2008@gmail.com
My 05 automatic mustang shifts completely fine in all forward gears but reverse takes exactly 15 seconds to engage…no more no less and it only does this when the engines warmed up. When reverse does engage it’s very smooth it doesn’t slam into gear…Also it will go into reverse immediately with no delay when cold starting. I’ve already changed the filter and replaced the fluid twice. No flashing O/D light, no check engine light and no slipping/delayed gear engagement in drive. Just this weird problem with reverse. It’s been this way for almost a year since I bought the car and it hasn’t gotten any worse. What in the world could be causing this???
I don't believe it is the Overdrive sprag like I describe in this video, but give me a little time and I will look into and I will get back with you..
some expert told me that if its delaying like you described its the solenoid pack that needs replacing ebay sells remanufactured for @140-150$ my 05 explorer does the exact same thing softly engages reverse but if reverse is into a incline you may be stuck. If the ground is level or downhill your good. all forward gears work great.
My mustang is a 2006 gt has no drive or revers but when I out it in 1st gear it drives normal I can shift into 2nd and sometimes into 3rd sometimes it slips can you help me out and lmk what you think
go to the 1:04 part of the video. If you put it in drive or reverse and race the motor and the car does the same as my car did in the video then the problem is the overdrive sprag, If you watch the whole video and/or read the description I go through the process of diagnosis and repair and the cost. The problem when the overdrive sprag goes bad is the gearset spins internally instead of making the tires spin. So its technically in gear but its sending power to the wrong place. If you can pull the tranny and put it back then you can fix it yourself. There are a lot of 5R55 teardown videos out there you may need to check out a few of them, this video is to show you the exact part that has failed, and why the cart acts that way when it fails.
Band wedges
That American accent is killing me.
I've got an 04 Ranger and Ive got reverse, 2 and 1 but no Drive....it does exactly what yours did at the start of the video but I do have reverse....also I can put it in 2 and once Im past like 10-15 mph I can shift to drive and its fine....any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Sounds like u are missing 3rd gear.. 3rd gear is the same as 1st except the intermediate band also applies.. so the question is why isn’t it applying??? It could be a broken band, or the servo bore hole that the intermediate band piston rides in could be worn and not allowing the piston to hold enough pressure to apply the band..
U would need to pull the valve body and use air to apply the intermediate band so see if it is applying with air pressure.. if it will apply with air it should apply with fluid.. if it won’t apply with air the bore is likely worn out.. if it will apply with air, then it should apply with fluid.. the fluid is controlled by the valve body, the valve body is controlled by the solenoid pack, the solenoids are controlled by the PCM..
You can also try to re-adjust the intermediate band to see if it makes any difference..
what do you think it could be if the car does not rock at all in any gear, been doing mad donuts and burnouts in my 2009 p71 vic and after the last burn out she dont move at all. im thinking i blew my diff but i have heard a few other comments such as my tc or even my clutch plates. my hope is that i blew the diff and can replace it with a lsd and come back better than ever but my worries are that it is a transmission issue that will require real $ to have somebody fix. let me know if i sound slow thinking its my diff lmao.
If its not moving in any gear, then have someone to check under the car to see if the driveshaft is spinning or not while the car is in gear.. if its spinning but the car isn't moving, then the diff is bad..
If its not spinning in any gear, then there is a problem with the fluid circulation in the transmission or if you were manual shifting its possible the shifter cable broke and isn't moving the car into drive..
the torque converter could be stripped. or the clutches could be so worn that the clutch material has stopped up the filter and the fluid cant circulate..
Or the transmission pump could have burned up,
Its also possible that you've leaked all of the fluid down somehow..
I would start at the shift cable make sure its working properly,
check the fluid level and make sure its right,
then drop the pan on the transmission and change the filter..
@@williamblanks8500 the drive shaft definitely does still spin, when I throw it in park it whines trying to slow the shaft down. Thank you for your response it is helping put my mind at ease a bit.
@@foffanthony5208 no problem at all..
Damn, looked everywhere for over a week to help my fiance to fix her stang. But her car dont have reverse, drive, first 2 and 3rd and i genuinely couldnt figure out why. It wasnt throwin any codes, Nothin. Thought it was the Torque converter clutch solenoid but i was gettin mixed signals wether or not it was electrical, needin the trans rebuilt, a mew coverter or just fluid. So imma try and drop the trans and see if thatll help. If not imma just light the sum bitch in fire 😂
I got 07 gt stock. Both reverse and neutral go forward when I step on the gas, and then drive doesn’t go past 1st gear, any idea what it could be
1st thing I would check is the shift cable to make sure the gears on the shifter are matching up to the actual transmission gear that you are in.. It shouldn’t move in neutral
How much do you think it will be if I take my car to a shop and explain this problem and get them to fix it?
No reasonable person would go thru the trouble of tearing it down and putting it back together without inspecting everything and rebuilding everything.. so they would probably still charge for a full rebuild.. if you do this also consider putting in a transgo shift kit.. it will prevent it from breaking down as fast
Would you by chance know the part number I can't get it to pull up
Borg Warner 50001BW
Here is the Amazon link to it.. amzn.to/318lhBa
Thanks I been trying to find out this I knew it was something because she will go right about to days then bye bye drive and reverse . I hope you and yours stay healthy thanks a lot I was going by the whole thing lol.
@@tabithatate8532 thanks, so far it has held up pretty good, we still drive it everyday.. i hope you got your issue worked out..
Thanks For Watching, Please Like and Subscribe..
I'm scared. Our future is on trouble
What’s wrong?
What's your accent buud?
Lumbee
im confused you show that the car wont reverse or forward but you only replace the over drive sprag. Why not replace the reverse sprag? did replacing the O.D. sprag allow the car to reverse? they list them as 2 different sprag and i read your list of all you actually replaced etc. But no mention of reverse sprag?????
Great question, if you check the service manual on the 5r55s on page 4 there is a component application chart.. If you look at this chart you will see that even though there is a low/reverse sprag, while in reverse it isn’t holding it’s suppose to spin freely… The only components applied in reverse are the direct clutch, the L/R band and the O/D sprag..
The low/reverse sprag only holds in 1st and 2nd gear.. so if reverse was working but the car wouldn’t going in 1st or 2nd then the problem would be the low/reverse sprag..
procarmanuals.com/ford-5r55s-ford-5r55w-atsg-automatic-transmission-service-group/
Here is a link to the manual.. If you look at the chart you should help you understand what each component should be doing while the transmission is in each gear..
@@williamblanks8500 perfect answer..freakin logic..wins every time..
I'm with you boo if 8 can spend 2or 300 and learn what's wrong I'm always up for that.I turn wrenches all my life .I hold 5 patents yet for no reason I have left tranny work to the higher minds for why? 2600+$$ is crazy cause I know 60% of the time they repair not rebuild wash it up and send you off mumbling to yourself saying "see you next time" then under their breath "sucker"..that's the world we live in ..don't even kid yourself ..or they swap yours for a factory line rebuilt..goodbye matching numbers...
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