Thanks for the video! Very informative and educational. As a linux user I'm glad there is a open source software available as well. I learned the hard way yesterday that you need to set the fuse bits correctly, as my ATMega328p could not talk to arduino software because of only using internal clock @ 1MHz.
I just wanted to note that you probably meant dealbreaker when you said showstopper, because it's a common mistake and a showstopper is something positive. But after double checking I'm not sure if the usage of the word is slowly incorporating the meaning dealbreaker too. However thanks for the very interesting video. I already burned some Eproms using the TL866 and Windows but never a microcontroller. The part about the fuse bits was extremely interesting and now I'm reading the datasheet. Also I'm using XGPro V7.11 for a few years and to my surprise the new version of the software looks quite a bit different and nicer.
Yes, I used showstopper as a negative. I agree that dealbreaker would have been a better choice of words. I keep that in mind when I hit the next "showstopper"
Please change references of "github" to "gitlab". I've moved most of my work to Gitlab in mid 2018. Also, please credit Valentin Dudouyt as the original author. I haven't heard from him since he handed off custody of minipro in early 2018. I'm glad to see people find minipro useful.
Thanks David. I edited the description as requested but please understand that I don't change the video itself. UA-cam no longer supports corrections or even adding an overlay text. I would have to delete the whole entry (with all comments) and do a complete resubmit. Apologies for calling it Github when the link clearly said Gitlab. I guess its because I am on Github myself...
Thanks for the informative video! Quick question: I'm attempting EEPROM (28c256) programming but only have access to a T48 programmer instead of the TL866 chip programmer you mentioned. Since I'm a Linux user, do you think the GitLab link you provided will be compatible with Linux systems?
The T48 programmer has experimental support in the latest versions of minipro for Linux. I've confirmed it works at the very least with 27C512 EPROMs and should work with the 28C256 as well. I understand that the following command should work: minipro -p 28C256 -uP -w filename
Well I am a Linux user too so chances are yes, but I have not needed to program any EEPROMS or other chips for a while, so I can't really tell at the moment.
You forgot one important thing: The TL866II+ is a high voltage programmer! You can program the Reset PIN as an IO PIN and if you do that on a conventional programmer you are stuck now. With the TL86II+ you can recover the Atmega and program the PIN as Reset again.
hi thanks for this video. I do have a question and i hope you can shed some insight..I too have an TL866 programmer and an Atmega328p, I am trying to flash the bootloader (i have the hex) but what i am trying to do is set the fuse to 8MHz in the config section of the minipro software. But i do not know which ones to check mark. I purchased a Atmega328p with bootloader already isnatlled and set to 16MHz, but i want to avoid using a crystal in my project so I need to flash the bootloader with 8mhz, how can I do this using only the minipro? I see you mentioned it here in the video, but I am new to this stuff and dont understand how to actually implement the settings to achieve the result
With no crystal you mean the default 8MHz internal RC oscillator. This is done using the fuse_lo byte with a CKSEL to a value of 2 (binary 0010). For this mode, the default is CKDIV to be programmed to 0 which divides that 8 MHz to get you 1 MHz for the CPU. CKOUT is by default not programmed (1) meaning the clock signal is not sent to port B0 which probably what you want. The whole Lo_Byte for this would be 01100010 or hex 62, which is the default when you buy a brand new chip.
@@TheHWcave I’m using fuse bite calculator and now it starting to make sense what you said here. I made changes and arduino won’t upload, I’ll try only changing lo
After watching your videos I felt confident to get a TL866II+ and upgrade the firmware of my tester. I am trying to use a Pi4 for running minipro. This works, but now I want to upgrade the firmware of the programmer first. I have downloaded and extracted the .rar archive with „unar“, but now I am stuck with the .exe file. I could not extract the updateII.dat file from it. The Pi does not have Archive Manager installed, but XArchiver by default. Does anybody have an idea how to get the required file out of the .exe?
You could try renaming the .exe to .zip because that's what it actually is. You should then be able to examine the content using any tool that handles zip files
I find this an excellent tutorial for complete beginners like me. I am very appreciative!
Thanks for the video! Very informative and educational. As a linux user I'm glad there is a open source software available as well.
I learned the hard way yesterday that you need to set the fuse bits correctly, as my ATMega328p could not talk to arduino software because of only using internal clock @ 1MHz.
I just wanted to note that you probably meant dealbreaker when you said showstopper, because it's a common mistake and a showstopper is something positive. But after double checking I'm not sure if the usage of the word is slowly incorporating the meaning dealbreaker too. However thanks for the very interesting video. I already burned some Eproms using the TL866 and Windows but never a microcontroller. The part about the fuse bits was extremely interesting and now I'm reading the datasheet. Also I'm using XGPro V7.11 for a few years and to my surprise the new version of the software looks quite a bit different and nicer.
Yes, I used showstopper as a negative. I agree that dealbreaker would have been a better choice of words. I keep that in mind when I hit the next "showstopper"
Please change references of "github" to "gitlab". I've moved most of my work to Gitlab in mid 2018. Also, please credit Valentin Dudouyt as the original author. I haven't heard from him since he handed off custody of minipro in early 2018. I'm glad to see people find minipro useful.
Thanks David. I edited the description as requested but please understand that I don't change the video itself. UA-cam no longer supports corrections or even adding an overlay text. I would have to delete the whole entry (with all comments) and do a complete resubmit. Apologies for calling it Github when the link clearly said Gitlab. I guess its because I am on Github myself...
@@TheHWcave I understand.
Excellent, as always! Thank you, Heinz!
Thank for your video it's very good for configure to program atmega🎉
Thanks for the informative video! Quick question: I'm attempting EEPROM (28c256) programming but only have access to a T48 programmer instead of the TL866 chip programmer you mentioned. Since I'm a Linux user, do you think the GitLab link you provided will be compatible with Linux systems?
Sorry, I really can't advise on this without having such a programmer and trying it out.
The T48 programmer has experimental support in the latest versions of minipro for Linux. I've confirmed it works at the very least with 27C512 EPROMs and should work with the 28C256 as well.
I understand that the following command should work: minipro -p 28C256 -uP -w filename
Well I am a Linux user too so chances are yes, but I have not needed to program any EEPROMS or other chips for a while, so I can't really tell at the moment.
You forgot one important thing: The TL866II+ is a high voltage programmer! You can program the Reset PIN as an IO PIN and if you do that on a conventional programmer you are stuck now. With the TL86II+ you can recover the Atmega and program the PIN as Reset again.
I had not realised that. Very good to know. Many thanks
So what you essentially do is voltage glitching?
Do you have any more info about this? As I'm interested in how this works.
hi thanks for this video. I do have a question and i hope you can shed some insight..I too have an TL866 programmer and an Atmega328p, I am trying to flash the bootloader (i have the hex) but what i am trying to do is set the fuse to 8MHz in the config section of the minipro software. But i do not know which ones to check mark. I purchased a Atmega328p with bootloader already isnatlled and set to 16MHz, but i want to avoid using a crystal in my project so I need to flash the bootloader with 8mhz, how can I do this using only the minipro? I see you mentioned it here in the video, but I am new to this stuff and dont understand how to actually implement the settings to achieve the result
if i want to set the fuse to 8mhz, which options do i check mark here?
imgur.com/a/9Mqd72b
With no crystal you mean the default 8MHz internal RC oscillator. This is done using the fuse_lo byte with a CKSEL to a value of 2 (binary 0010). For this mode, the default is CKDIV to be programmed to 0 which divides that 8 MHz to get you 1 MHz for the CPU. CKOUT is by default not programmed (1) meaning the clock signal is not sent to port B0 which probably what you want. The whole Lo_Byte for this would be 01100010 or hex 62, which is the default when you buy a brand new chip.
@@TheHWcave I’m using fuse bite calculator and now it starting to make sense what you said here. I made changes and arduino won’t upload, I’ll try only changing lo
After watching your videos I felt confident to get a TL866II+ and upgrade the firmware of my tester. I am trying to use a Pi4 for running minipro. This works, but now I want to upgrade the firmware of the programmer first. I have downloaded and extracted the .rar archive with „unar“, but now I am stuck with the .exe file. I could not extract the updateII.dat file from it. The Pi does not have Archive Manager installed, but XArchiver by default. Does anybody have an idea how to get the required file out of the .exe?
You could try renaming the .exe to .zip because that's what it actually is. You should then be able to examine the content using any tool that handles zip files
@@TheHWcave Unfortunately this did not work, but it worked easily on my Mac. 😀
So I didn't need to buy a cheap avr dongle after all.