Nice video Sir, Your taper work went smooth, well done. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and experience. I started watching your videos when you auctioned your hammer and Steve Sommers won it. Your are part of a small community of machinists that is an accomplishment. Please keep doing what you do. Respectfully.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I was very pleased and somewhat surprised how well the taper turned out. I am just finishing up the frame for the balancer and should be publishing it next week, just waiting for a tool to come in so that I can complete the project.
Good work. If the taper is a good fit, there is no need for the thread cutting or to use the nut. Static balancing does not require the safety of the nut as the arbor is also almost static too 😊
The funny thing is that my taper fit so well that I don't have to use the nut when balancing a wheel. Lucked out on getting the taper right the first time. Thanks for stopping by.
Great job Steve, but I have a question. Why do you need left hand threads on this arbor? Isn't the nut just to hold the hub on the arbor - it won't be spinning like it will be on the machine. I've got my balance frame done, but haven't started on the arbor - got to get some good material for it (like you did).
You are absolutely right. I was designing this on the fly and I was thinking that I would be using the nut off the machine. Actually as long as the hub wedges on the taper I don't need a nut at all. Thanks for watching and commenting.
R. Steven Lang, Shark River Machine Well it did get some LH thread experience. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something as this is definitely on my to do list.
LH threads are actually easier because you are threading away from the head stock. Less chance of a crash. I am sure that there are better choices for material, I really like the way my little lather handles the stressproof. It is supposed to be around Rockwell 25C. That is good for the kind of use it will receive.
Nice job Steve. I have the same job on my todo list. I noticed at 16:48 at the end of cutting the thread the cutting tool rose up quite a bit. Do you have a rigidity problem with the toolpost or tool holder? Cheers.
I had not noticed that, buy yes this lathe has a rigidity problem. I have eliminated a lot of it by building the all steel tool post. Going to have to look at the gibs again. There seems to be a lot of spring in the system. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That taper is 7.125 degrees per side but I only used the lathe to rough mine out. I then finished it on the surface grinder.. That hub looks like a harig or equivalent so the taper is almost certainly the 7.125 degrees since its based on 3.000 inches per foot total included taper. I am uploading a video tonight on me balancing wheels using coins and various weights such as washers and jb weld.. The arbor does not have to be tightened down the taper simply sticks in with a twist.. On the tapers I have a good video uploaded giving the angles and stuff on most grinders.. however its on JC MILLS I am using key west since they kicked me off for one week because I uploaded a video of the tiger being beaten with sticks--and the owner of the video complained...
but good arbor no doubt about it--myself I did not have that much time I simply put a sleeve on thompson rod and jb welded it and let it cure overnight then roughed it out in the lathe then finish spun it on the surface grinder..
Nice arbor Steven, came out great.
Thank you Randy. Next is the frame, I am working on the video this weekend. Just got the cutter that I ordered to finish it up.
Nice video Sir, Your taper work went smooth, well done. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and experience.
I started watching your videos when you auctioned your hammer and Steve Sommers won it. Your are part of a small community of machinists that is an accomplishment. Please keep doing what you do. Respectfully.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I was very pleased and somewhat surprised how well the taper turned out. I am just finishing up the frame for the balancer and should be publishing it next week, just waiting for a tool to come in so that I can complete the project.
Good work. If the taper is a good fit, there is no need for the thread cutting or to use the nut. Static balancing does not require the safety of the nut as the arbor is also almost static too 😊
I realized that the first time that I used it. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Good job Steve very nice work
Thank you for the kind comment.
Enjoyed Steve!
ATB, Robin
Thank you Robin! I am zeroing in on these projects. I know what a good finish is and I will not stop until I get it.
My God Steve, just looked at your video and its almost exactly the same as my arbor. Great minds think alike.
Cam
The funny thing is that my taper fit so well that I don't have to use the nut when balancing a wheel. Lucked out on getting the taper right the first time. Thanks for stopping by.
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
Good job that can be tricky getting tapers correct.
I was surprised, I only had to make one small adjustment. I think that there was a little luck involved.
Great job , ENJOYED !
Thank you for watching and commenting, it keeps me going.
Top work mate! Keep them coming :-)
Thank you, next video is in the works. Just have to stay home long enough to finish the machine work.
Great job Steve, but I have a question. Why do you need left hand threads on this arbor? Isn't the nut just to hold the hub on the arbor - it won't be spinning like it will be on the machine. I've got my balance frame done, but haven't started on the arbor - got to get some good material for it (like you did).
You are absolutely right. I was designing this on the fly and I was thinking that I would be using the nut off the machine. Actually as long as the hub wedges on the taper I don't need a nut at all. Thanks for watching and commenting.
R. Steven Lang, Shark River Machine Well it did get some LH thread experience. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something as this is definitely on my to do list.
LH threads are actually easier because you are threading away from the head stock. Less chance of a crash. I am sure that there are better choices for material, I really like the way my little lather handles the stressproof. It is supposed to be around Rockwell 25C. That is good for the kind of use it will receive.
Nice job Steve. I have the same job on my todo list. I noticed at 16:48 at the end of cutting the thread the cutting tool rose up quite a bit. Do you have a rigidity problem with the toolpost or tool holder? Cheers.
I had not noticed that, buy yes this lathe has a rigidity problem. I have eliminated a lot of it by building the all steel tool post. Going to have to look at the gibs again. There seems to be a lot of spring in the system. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Cool👍
Thanks for watching.
That taper is 7.125 degrees per side but I only used the lathe to rough mine out. I then finished it on the surface grinder.. That hub looks like a harig or equivalent so the taper is almost certainly the 7.125 degrees since its based on 3.000 inches per foot total included taper. I am uploading a video tonight on me balancing wheels using coins and various weights such as washers and jb weld.. The arbor does not have to be tightened down the taper simply sticks in with a twist.. On the tapers I have a good video uploaded giving the angles and stuff on most grinders.. however its on JC MILLS I am using key west since they kicked me off for one week because I uploaded a video of the tiger being beaten with sticks--and the owner of the video complained...
but good arbor no doubt about it--myself I did not have that much time I simply put a sleeve on thompson rod and jb welded it and let it cure overnight then roughed it out in the lathe then finish spun it on the surface grinder..