I went from 1250 gallons of fuel oil per season to 350 gallons of fuel oil per season just north of Palmer Alaska. I couldn't keep the building warm before anyway, not my huge Log Cabin. I suggest once you've selected the correct furnace for your home, you have a secondary heater for your primary room, similar to the smallest toyostove which is what I am using. At $5 a gallon I have secondary concerns to having a huge building warm I'm happy not to use during the winter. Circulating water from the water room to the heat exchanger I put in front of the toyostove I eliminate electric heating in the water room which usually maintains a temperature above freezing, the tap open slightly, warm well water periodically enters the tank. 4500 watts of flash Heating in the bathroom with a remote switch in my room to turn it on before I enter. And when the water room gets to 28 degrees and the water comes out like a Slurpee, I drain the 300 gallon tank of ice water and refill it with warm well water and the temperature in the room returns to 40° even as its -20 outside. An automotive Square wave power inverter keeps the toyostove running when the power is out with a couple of spare batteries. And electric blankets help a lot, they will not run on a square wave, you can turn the thermostat down at night time or wrap them around you when you're cold. It's not like it's a climate crisis and there's two and a half times more people now then when I was a kid when it was a crisis, also a portable heat pump and which uses 1000 Watts and some solar panels I bought with cash and just plug in the wall, with a double electric meter, Alaska state-regulated it acts like a battery, what I put in I get back without a difference and any excess gets rolled over into the next month at $0.08 wholesale, credits are 8 year old are turned into checks, I don't make that much kind of power, but when it's 50° outside it replaces fuel oil as the sun shines. My toyostove uses only 20 watts of power and so it's easy to keep the heat on when the power goes out for 10 hours with a battery backup compared to a large furnace. With the price of fuel exploding, my bills have gone down paying my investment back instantly.
Simple rule: When outside temp 25F and below cold night, with reasonably insulated home, If your furnace kicks in every 20 min and runs about 8 to 10 min and turns off 10-12 min before its kicks on then your home has right furnace. If your furnace kicks every 15 min and runs for 5min then you have oversized furnace. If furnace runs more than 10 min and turns off shorter than its run times then you have under rated furnace and/or need good insulation inspection. If it is slightly over sized then you may ask tech to reduce output by reducing the furnace gas pressure, furnace blower speed temp-rise difference adjustment. He will also check the combustion analyzer readings.
My HVAC technician recommended a 45000 BTU furnace for my 1750 sq ft middle townhouse in Toronto. My old furnace was a 2 stage 70000 BTU furnace. The BTU of the first stage was around 45000 btu but I don’t know what will happen when it’s -20C outside.. The problem is the manufacturer only makes 45000 btu or a 70000 btu single stage furnaces. 70K would be too big . He keeps telling me that I should be fine with 45K since I share 2 walls with other units. Technically I would probably need a 54000 btu single stage furnace ..
This video is useless don't waste your time, they will tell you something you already know (you need to but the right size furnace for your home) then "you want to know what size furnace you need for your house contact our company" 👎🏽
Here's the original blog: www.advantageheatingllc.com/learning-center/what-size-furnace-do-i-need/
I went from 1250 gallons of fuel oil per season to 350 gallons of fuel oil per season just north of Palmer Alaska. I couldn't keep the building warm before anyway, not my huge Log Cabin. I suggest once you've selected the correct furnace for your home, you have a secondary heater for your primary room, similar to the smallest toyostove which is what I am using. At $5 a gallon I have secondary concerns to having a huge building warm I'm happy not to use during the winter. Circulating water from the water room to the heat exchanger I put in front of the toyostove I eliminate electric heating in the water room which usually maintains a temperature above freezing, the tap open slightly, warm well water periodically enters the tank. 4500 watts of flash Heating in the bathroom with a remote switch in my room to turn it on before I enter. And when the water room gets to 28 degrees and the water comes out like a Slurpee, I drain the 300 gallon tank of ice water and refill it with warm well water and the temperature in the room returns to 40° even as its -20 outside. An automotive Square wave power inverter keeps the toyostove running when the power is out with a couple of spare batteries.
And electric blankets help a lot, they will not run on a square wave, you can turn the thermostat down at night time or wrap them around you when you're cold. It's not like it's a climate crisis and there's two and a half times more people now then when I was a kid when it was a crisis, also a portable heat pump and which uses 1000 Watts and some solar panels I bought with cash and just plug in the wall, with a double electric meter, Alaska state-regulated it acts like a battery, what I put in I get back without a difference and any excess gets rolled over into the next month at $0.08 wholesale, credits are 8 year old are turned into checks, I don't make that much kind of power, but when it's 50° outside it replaces fuel oil as the sun shines. My toyostove uses only 20 watts of power and so it's easy to keep the heat on when the power goes out for 10 hours with a battery backup compared to a large furnace. With the price of fuel exploding, my bills have gone down paying my investment back instantly.
Simple rule: When outside temp 25F and below cold night, with reasonably insulated home, If your furnace kicks in every 20 min and runs about 8 to 10 min and turns off 10-12 min before its kicks on then your home has right furnace. If your furnace kicks every 15 min and runs for 5min then you have oversized furnace. If furnace runs more than 10 min and turns off shorter than its run times then you have under rated furnace and/or need good insulation inspection. If it is slightly over sized then you may ask tech to reduce output by reducing the furnace gas pressure, furnace blower speed temp-rise difference adjustment. He will also check the combustion analyzer readings.
My HVAC technician recommended a 45000 BTU furnace for my 1750 sq ft middle townhouse in Toronto. My old furnace was a 2 stage 70000 BTU furnace. The BTU of the first stage was around 45000 btu but I don’t know what will happen when it’s -20C outside.. The problem is the manufacturer only makes 45000 btu or a 70000 btu single stage furnaces. 70K would be too big . He keeps telling me that I should be fine with 45K since I share 2 walls with other units. Technically I would probably need a 54000 btu single stage furnace ..
So what is the block chain formula?
Your competitors are more open about the formulas. That make them seem more honest.
This video is useless don't waste your time, they will tell you something you already know (you need to but the right size furnace for your home) then "you want to know what size furnace you need for your house contact our company" 👎🏽