String my Lakota 2 to the inside and start the top string on the first sidewall to keep the top more loose. Also string a mid pocket rather than a low. Allows for max ball retention, a mid pocket that shifts all throughout the head, and a channel that provides consistency without any hook or snag. Stringing to the inside seems to be the best option for most players I string for other than those who prefer low pockets because it is so easy to get ball retention and a good channel in a low pocket already and like you said stringing to the inside for a low pocket might create hook or illegality
I’ve found inside stringing has most of its utility for LSM and D heads, basically anything super wide. I also just ran upstairs and checked all of my inside strung heads, thankfully they’re all in the clear!
I have also fallen away from this as the sticks I’ve been stringing to the inside, even while breaking in the mesh completely, the bottom string is so critical that the throat tilt test was often failed
Your issue might be letting the 10th 10 diamond row slide too far down on your tie off. I like to keep that last 1 very tight to the sidewall by stopping it before the last sidewall hole and doing an extra inside weave below it before tying off.
@@Bonga_Q what up Bodi! Try out a woven loop bottom lace on the 11th 10 diamond row going from the back/underside of the bottom of the head. I started ending my sidewalls earlier out of necessity when stringing an Evo QX-O (not strung to the inside) for Bergin, but I like how it creates a nice V at the bottom. I actually just strung up a weaved outside mark2 f stiff for a Coopers teammate that is dope. I just sent you pics in Slack.
I stopped stringing to the inside as well and it’s the exact same answer The more the head pinches, the more illegal it gets, so I didn’t wanna risk it anymore
im a stringer for my team and im a pretty big advocate for strining to the inside, and ive done pockets for people that have a stacked si and made catch points without those stacks and they still feel like they do, i use the z-1 with a lower pocket and a catch point like you, and all the sticks ive strung for myself and others have been legal, and i agree people shouldnt change their patterns just to fit a certain style of pocket but i still reccomend looking into it for those who are interested
I actually looked at the stringing to the inside video a couple weeks ago when one of my players needed a stick strung. Saw the video, decided against it. It sure may be a fun and cool looking pattern to create, but it definitely has some downsides. Unrelated, I must now string an old stick to the inside, for research purposes…
Hello I’m a father who’s son plays box lacrosse in Canada. He’s 12 and wants to start stringing his own sticks. Can you please tell me the best books/videos to look at to get started .
Sucks....play with similar heavily channeled pocket...humidity plays a hugge impact. New England lax you can get away with some stuff cause you pretty much play in dead of winter to mid spring
I string all my sticks to the inside. I had issues with whip and legality when I used 11 diamond column or 10 diamond column with a stack. Now I use 10 diamonds with no stack and the bottom string on the next 9 diamond row. I usually bunch 2 diamonds near the top after the anchor knot then 2 more diamonds slightly spaced under those then form the pocket with the next 5. Comes out amazing most of the time including on the Z-One
I had the same problem but I started doing something a little different I pull the first 2-3 diamonds to the inside to really pull that channel down and tight and then do a 1 si to convert it to the outside and finish it with 1s. This allows me to have a baggier pocket (which I prefer) with still a lot of hold and whip.
I remember you talked about how you only break in the pockets by pushing the mesh about with your thumbs in the channel area, have you done/tried a full baseball bat break-in? (sidewall-Jedi style)
I think he mentioned the reasoning in the "What Mesh Should I Use" video. It was to do with the elasticity and feel of the mesh. If you have a really inelastic mesh, pounding it that hard is ok because the mesh is already not going to want to stretch so you are really just helping the pocket to settle. If you use something that's more elastic and like that feel, like a SK 4x mesh, you'll wear out the elasticity of the mesh if you pound it too hard like Sidewall Jedi.
@ZBald19 is right in relaying my logic (almost like he has some insider knowledge or something...) and I definitely do break in my mesh with a pocket pounder when needed. It really just has to do with what style of pocket I look for not working when strung to the inside.
I am in the camp of breaking in ll parts of the pocket because I think it's better for ground balls, catching, and preventing the ball from getting caught in the channel. Definitely a must with Hero 3, but I like to with Type 4 and Stinger shack GXL too.
For my Lakota 2 with stringking 4s, I found that I could fix the issue by going straight into 1 on the 5th 10 diamond row (from the ksi on the 4th 10 diamond row) instead of a ksi, and going straight into a 1 on the 8th 10 diamond row from the stacked si instead of a tie off (ksi1, ssi1). For my Mark 2V with Stringershack, I did all SIs with a 1 at the end. My OG Lakotas, Evo QXO, and Tackit 2.0 I all have strung up normally.
The actual answer is you do a two step process: Blue to navy up top, yellow to red on the bottom. yellow and red overlap make the orange, blue and yellow overlap make the green!
String my Lakota 2 to the inside and start the top string on the first sidewall to keep the top more loose. Also string a mid pocket rather than a low. Allows for max ball retention, a mid pocket that shifts all throughout the head, and a channel that provides consistency without any hook or snag. Stringing to the inside seems to be the best option for most players I string for other than those who prefer low pockets because it is so easy to get ball retention and a good channel in a low pocket already and like you said stringing to the inside for a low pocket might create hook or illegality
I’ve found inside stringing has most of its utility for LSM and D heads, basically anything super wide. I also just ran upstairs and checked all of my inside strung heads, thankfully they’re all in the clear!
Agreed! Glad to hear you're good to go!
I have also fallen away from this as the sticks I’ve been stringing to the inside, even while breaking in the mesh completely, the bottom string is so critical that the throat tilt test was often failed
Your issue might be letting the 10th 10 diamond row slide too far down on your tie off. I like to keep that last 1 very tight to the sidewall by stopping it before the last sidewall hole and doing an extra inside weave below it before tying off.
@@jmcrollard hey coach! That’s what I’ve been doing but I don’t like the resultant pocket shape so I typically just stick with standard stringing now
@@Bonga_Q what up Bodi! Try out a woven loop bottom lace on the 11th 10 diamond row going from the back/underside of the bottom of the head. I started ending my sidewalls earlier out of necessity when stringing an Evo QX-O (not strung to the inside) for Bergin, but I like how it creates a nice V at the bottom. I actually just strung up a weaved outside mark2 f stiff for a Coopers teammate that is dope. I just sent you pics in Slack.
I stopped stringing to the inside as well and it’s the exact same answer
The more the head pinches, the more illegal it gets, so I didn’t wanna risk it anymore
im a stringer for my team and im a pretty big advocate for strining to the inside, and ive done pockets for people that have a stacked si and made catch points without those stacks and they still feel like they do, i use the z-1 with a lower pocket and a catch point like you, and all the sticks ive strung for myself and others have been legal, and i agree people shouldnt change their patterns just to fit a certain style of pocket but i still reccomend looking into it for those who are interested
What about D-heads?
I actually looked at the stringing to the inside video a couple weeks ago when one of my players needed a stick strung. Saw the video, decided against it. It sure may be a fun and cool looking pattern to create, but it definitely has some downsides. Unrelated, I must now string an old stick to the inside, for research purposes…
Hello I’m a father who’s son plays box lacrosse in Canada. He’s 12 and wants to start stringing his own sticks. Can you please tell me the best books/videos to look at to get started .
3:39 was trippy as hell 😂
Sucks....play with similar heavily channeled pocket...humidity plays a hugge impact. New England lax you can get away with some stuff cause you pretty much play in dead of winter to mid spring
I string all my sticks to the inside. I had issues with whip and legality when I used 11 diamond column or 10 diamond column with a stack. Now I use 10 diamonds with no stack and the bottom string on the next 9 diamond row. I usually bunch 2 diamonds near the top after the anchor knot then 2 more diamonds slightly spaced under those then form the pocket with the next 5. Comes out amazing most of the time including on the Z-One
Thanks for the feedback!
@@mainelymesh and thanks for the PSA. I didn't proof read it but I hope my comment makes sense. I definitely recommend you try that pattern.
Are you using si's or 1s? Or what combo?
I had the same problem but I started doing something a little different I pull the first 2-3 diamonds to the inside to really pull that channel down and tight and then do a 1 si to convert it to the outside and finish it with 1s. This allows me to have a baggier pocket (which I prefer) with still a lot of hold and whip.
How did you get that amazing rainbow pattern dye? I love it!
I remember you talked about how you only break in the pockets by pushing the mesh about with your thumbs in the channel area, have you done/tried a full baseball bat break-in? (sidewall-Jedi style)
I think he mentioned the reasoning in the "What Mesh Should I Use" video. It was to do with the elasticity and feel of the mesh. If you have a really inelastic mesh, pounding it that hard is ok because the mesh is already not going to want to stretch so you are really just helping the pocket to settle. If you use something that's more elastic and like that feel, like a SK 4x mesh, you'll wear out the elasticity of the mesh if you pound it too hard like Sidewall Jedi.
@ZBald19 is right in relaying my logic (almost like he has some insider knowledge or something...) and I definitely do break in my mesh with a pocket pounder when needed. It really just has to do with what style of pocket I look for not working when strung to the inside.
@@mainelymesh ohh ok yeah I see what you are saying
I am in the camp of breaking in ll parts of the pocket because I think it's better for ground balls, catching, and preventing the ball from getting caught in the channel. Definitely a must with Hero 3, but I like to with Type 4 and Stinger shack GXL too.
What mesh do you use
For my Lakota 2 with stringking 4s, I found that I could fix the issue by going straight into 1 on the 5th 10 diamond row (from the ksi on the 4th 10 diamond row) instead of a ksi, and going straight into a 1 on the 8th 10 diamond row from the stacked si instead of a tie off (ksi1, ssi1). For my Mark 2V with Stringershack, I did all SIs with a 1 at the end. My OG Lakotas, Evo QXO, and Tackit 2.0 I all have strung up normally.
Hey, what is your pattern for the z one? The one strung to the outside.
hoping to get it up within the month!
What head is that? I want one
Can you review the True Helios Shaft
how does one rainbow dye a lacrosse head🤔
Step 1: Buy it off of someone who knows how to rainbow dye a lacrosse head haha
I don't dye heads but from what I've seen, my guess would be to hot glue gun it and layer colors
The actual answer is you do a two step process: Blue to navy up top, yellow to red on the bottom. yellow and red overlap make the orange, blue and yellow overlap make the green!
@@mainelymesh now, got do you make dye a head a mane it clear? :D
crispy
First