Great video. I just did the rear brakes on my Mini Cooper because it seized. That meant rotors, pads, and calipers. I will make sure this doesn’t happen to my Model 3.
Thank You for the upload! I've changed the rotors/brakes on my rover and jeep and wasn't sure if the tesla would be the same. At this rate, there is nothing ever to work on or I should say fix on the tesla, so I'm looking forward to doing this project lol. Car is 9yrs old, 80k miles...lots of brake dust and brakes squeak. Ordered all new OEM from Brembo for $700...we'll see how it goes
Thanks so much for this detailed video! I’m gonna give this a go. I had no idea they needed servicing and the Tesla service center never advised me to do it. So it may have been 5 years since they’ve been service :-/
Good luck! It's possible you're fine-- varies wildly with climate-- but if you find anything stuck, don't despair just be cautious and deliberate in your methodology to free it.
I still have the rotors. Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it -- we do have O'Reilly near us that has recently opened and I see that service on their website. At the time of this video there were none here and resurfacing at my local shops was all going to be basically the cost of new rotors (about $90).
Correct instructions and very important, but next time use a tripod. Keep these instructions rolling. Taking once Tesla apart and putting it together is very easy and important to master. Will save you a tone of money and keeping your great car in shape even after 300.000 km or 186.000 miles as our three Model S cars.
Amusingly, I actually work in TV as my "day job" so I do know better -- but after a day at work the last thing I want to do is more production UNPAID (uh-hem, UA-cam) so I do this for the owners/sharing the info only at this point. I don't think I have a tripod that'll work with my phone (?)... I use a suction cup/clamp in the in-car blogs but haven't done those in a while. I'm certainly not buying more gear to make videos for free though. UA-cam needs to change their policies.
Just adding a note for 12:20 that, if you're doing this maint very late, you may need to loosen the bleeder valve to more easily press those pistons in. A one way catch tube is helpful. Keep pads in place and use a narrow piece of wood as a wedge, if the pistons are still fighting.
On my Subarus I just pull the reservoir cap off. On the Tesla the pads wear so little that I've not had to open bleeders or the cap.. so far.. and I'm at 100k. But I do use a compression tool acquired since I made this video. It's very handy, especially when dealing with integrated parking brakes (my Outback).
Great tutorial, thank you. Im going to be doing this soon for the first time on my 2018 Model s 75D, and wondering what size punch pin to order. 3/16"? Also I’m glad I read through the comments regarding the updated recommendation to use CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake grease.
Thanks for the video, This is a great "how to" lesson. My 2013 brakes have 160k miles on them. The rotors look clean and shiny inside and out. Could the pitting occur more often in areas where they use salt on winter roads? We don't here and it shows on our cars. Also, there was over 1/4" of pad left. I am amazed.
Def affected more by salt, but rust is more a function of humidity and moisture than just salt alone. Dry climates are ideal from a mechanical standpoint. Part of my corrosion issues (on all my cars) is due to parking them in the garage-- it allows snow/ice to melt but also provides that warmth and stagnant air that encourages rust. I run a dehumidifier in my garage year round to try and keep things drier.
Thanks excellent video ,, I’m getting ready to service mine on my model x , I do have a question, I see some people use hockey pucks to lift with jack , what is your opinion is it safe ?
Really depends on what the lifting surface of your jack is like. The old cup style floor jacks will need something to isolate the weight onto the lifting points. Newer pad style jacks are usually fine as-is as long as your lifting points hang lower than the valance (they usually do), but I personally use lift pads on the jack to make it easier to center the weight. The rubber pads are inexpensive and softer than a hockey puck, with a "split" on one side for use with cars that have lifting points on pinch welds (like my Subarus).
Just serviced my brakes now on my MY 17 TMS. Rusted here too. But will keep the pads until winter tire change. Did have to take off the front left caliper too get off the pads. So took off the brake hose. Did bleed the brakes when I reinstalled, but I feel the brake pedal is now very soft. No error messages in the car. Topped up the brake fluid after bleeding too. Everything seems fine. But pedal very soft. Do you know if I need to perform a routine of some sorts after bleeding the brakes? It was only the front left caliper I took off. Thanks😊👍🏻
I left my brake line attached when I removed my caliper, which I held up on large wood blocks so I could air hammer the pads out without stressing the hose. With my era S the brake bleed has a specific ordering (I forget exactly what it was) and remember that there are inside and outside bleeders on each caliper. For your Autopilot hardware S there are additional components added to the system so allow for AP braking--- I am not sure what that does to the bleed procedure, but I imagine it complicates things. The service center folks use a pressure bleed method that is well-demonstrated here on a Model 3: ua-cam.com/video/GVEG3jhG6n0/v-deo.html
You can buy from Service Center over the counter, or from Brembo directly (cheaper/same exact parts) or from RockAuto (Centric brand is good for rotors and about half the Brembo cost).
I have not had that problem on any of my cars. If the pads and hardware are in otherwise good condition, I'd try just swapping side to side and reapply the lube. Or, just take them out and put them back in. It's annoying, but many times just "molesting" stubborn car parts has solved problems faster than in depth troubleshooting. If I had to guess, there's less lubricant on the either the top or bottom caliper sliding surfaces... so make sure they're CLEAN, clear, smooth and lubed.
Hi, I cannot understand what shims there are between the pistons and pads. For me it looks like the pistons are going directly into the pads. I assume cobber is the right lubricant on top of the pistons. Am I right?
The pads have a thin metal plate on them, in addition to the heavy steel pad backing. That plate gets copper grease between it and the pad. The part of the shim that contacts the piston should get the silicone-ceramic. If you used copper there, it's not really a big deal and I wouldn't worry about. Just correct it next regular service/lube. What you don't want is copper grease on the aluminum caliper slide surfaces.
It looks like you live on the coast and have a lot of salt water or salt water air, or maybe snow and ice causing the rust. I live in Arizona, you would never see brake rotors or calipers in that condition here in Phoenix. People still drive 50 year old cars that are in excellent mechanical condition. My 2015 model S has 41,000 miles on it, and the brakes look brand new, literally brand new. So it may just be your location, I hear that Norway has the same issue.
Pittsburgh-- so we have salted roads. In an extremely dry climate you don't have the moisture related problems, but you could have dust/grit that cause the same thing over a longer period of time. It's generally good practice to maintain brakes more often than every 50 years (ha). Mine looked PERFECT from beside the car, for the record-- appeared brand new, but inner rotors were severely pitted and the pads/pins were seized in the calipers. Looked great though. Even felt fine unless I really stood on the pedal.
Tesla specs copper for between the pad backing/shim. It's true that some copper pastes are not safe for rubber seals, but the product shown is fine. The only part of the caliper it even comes close to is the piston and maybe a little smudge on the top of the caliper when sliding the pads back in. I have since moved to just using the white silicone-ceramic grease everywhere since it seems to hold up better to the elements and is a lot easier to apply thinly, so that would be my revised recommendation.... but YT doesn't really make that very easy, so bonus points and wisdom for those who read the comments and listen to us! Thank you.
Even a concentration of 1 ppm copper ion solution is known to perform serious corrosion on the aluminium surface. The metals that can cause deposition corrosion of aluminium are referred to as 'heavy metals'. Some important heavy metals are copper, mercury, tin, nickel,.. only use cheramic grease on aluminium calipers.
Correct -- for routine yearly service caliper does not need to be removed. I had mine off to replace pads/rotors after rust ruined the set (maintenance "accidently" deferred as the car was in bodyshop during season change).
You can order OEM Brembo pads direct from their website-- I think they're like $50/set. I ordered from RockAuto; rotors were Centric coated and not sure what pads were... But I think parts were like $250ish delivered.
I usually wear mechanics' gloves, but when doing videos I don't so I can operate the phone screen and not get it dirty. The blue/disposable gloves always ripped on me.
I suggest to use brake cleaner with caution, it does degrade rubber, so I suggest to use alcohol instead or cover rubber parts when you spray it.
I am replacing all 4 pads and rotors tomorrow. Thanks for this video. The information is fantastic.
Great video. I just did the rear brakes on my Mini Cooper because it seized. That meant rotors, pads, and calipers.
I will make sure this doesn’t happen to my Model 3.
Thank You for the upload! I've changed the rotors/brakes on my rover and jeep and wasn't sure if the tesla would be the same. At this rate, there is nothing ever to work on or I should say fix on the tesla, so I'm looking forward to doing this project lol. Car is 9yrs old, 80k miles...lots of brake dust and brakes squeak. Ordered all new OEM from Brembo for $700...we'll see how it goes
Thanks so much for this detailed video! I’m gonna give this a go. I had no idea they needed servicing and the Tesla service center never advised me to do it. So it may have been 5 years since they’ve been service :-/
Good luck! It's possible you're fine-- varies wildly with climate-- but if you find anything stuck, don't despair just be cautious and deliberate in your methodology to free it.
Man I don't know in your town but here O'rellies resurfaces rotors for $20 each, those original rotors still had a lot of life
I still have the rotors. Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it -- we do have O'Reilly near us that has recently opened and I see that service on their website. At the time of this video there were none here and resurfacing at my local shops was all going to be basically the cost of new rotors (about $90).
Correct instructions and very important, but next time use a tripod. Keep these instructions rolling. Taking once Tesla apart and putting it together is very easy and important to master. Will save you a tone of money and keeping your great car in shape even after 300.000 km or 186.000 miles as our three Model S cars.
Amusingly, I actually work in TV as my "day job" so I do know better -- but after a day at work the last thing I want to do is more production UNPAID (uh-hem, UA-cam) so I do this for the owners/sharing the info only at this point. I don't think I have a tripod that'll work with my phone (?)... I use a suction cup/clamp in the in-car blogs but haven't done those in a while. I'm certainly not buying more gear to make videos for free though. UA-cam needs to change their policies.
@@NZCUTR got it. Keep em rolling anyway. 😊
Just adding a note for 12:20 that, if you're doing this maint very late, you may need to loosen the bleeder valve to more easily press those pistons in. A one way catch tube is helpful.
Keep pads in place and use a narrow piece of wood as a wedge, if the pistons are still fighting.
I've always found that simply opening the brake fluid cap is all you need to do. You just need somewhere for pressure to be released.
On my Subarus I just pull the reservoir cap off. On the Tesla the pads wear so little that I've not had to open bleeders or the cap.. so far.. and I'm at 100k. But I do use a compression tool acquired since I made this video. It's very handy, especially when dealing with integrated parking brakes (my Outback).
Great tutorial, thank you. Im going to be doing this soon for the first time on my 2018 Model s 75D, and wondering what size punch pin to order. 3/16"? Also I’m glad I read through the comments regarding the updated recommendation to use CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake grease.
This is great, thank you very much!
Thanks for the video, This is a great "how to" lesson. My 2013 brakes have 160k miles on them. The rotors look clean and shiny inside and out. Could the pitting occur more often in areas where they use salt on winter roads? We don't here and it shows on our cars. Also, there was over 1/4" of pad left. I am amazed.
Def affected more by salt, but rust is more a function of humidity and moisture than just salt alone. Dry climates are ideal from a mechanical standpoint. Part of my corrosion issues (on all my cars) is due to parking them in the garage-- it allows snow/ice to melt but also provides that warmth and stagnant air that encourages rust. I run a dehumidifier in my garage year round to try and keep things drier.
@@NZCUTR Hard to find an area with more rain than here, which is why I speculated that it might be salt.
Mine failed at 44k and tesla wouldnt replace said i had ignored lubrication cycle. I live in MN USA.
Great video thank you for explaining so well
Thanks excellent video ,, I’m getting ready to service mine on my model x , I do have a question, I see some people use hockey pucks to lift with jack , what is your opinion is it safe ?
Really depends on what the lifting surface of your jack is like. The old cup style floor jacks will need something to isolate the weight onto the lifting points. Newer pad style jacks are usually fine as-is as long as your lifting points hang lower than the valance (they usually do), but I personally use lift pads on the jack to make it easier to center the weight. The rubber pads are inexpensive and softer than a hockey puck, with a "split" on one side for use with cars that have lifting points on pinch welds (like my Subarus).
Just serviced my brakes now on my MY 17 TMS. Rusted here too. But will keep the pads until winter tire change. Did have to take off the front left caliper too get off the pads. So took off the brake hose. Did bleed the brakes when I reinstalled, but I feel the brake pedal is now very soft. No error messages in the car. Topped up the brake fluid after bleeding too. Everything seems fine. But pedal very soft.
Do you know if I need to perform a routine of some sorts after bleeding the brakes? It was only the front left caliper I took off.
Thanks😊👍🏻
I left my brake line attached when I removed my caliper, which I held up on large wood blocks so I could air hammer the pads out without stressing the hose. With my era S the brake bleed has a specific ordering (I forget exactly what it was) and remember that there are inside and outside bleeders on each caliper. For your Autopilot hardware S there are additional components added to the system so allow for AP braking--- I am not sure what that does to the bleed procedure, but I imagine it complicates things. The service center folks use a pressure bleed method that is well-demonstrated here on a Model 3: ua-cam.com/video/GVEG3jhG6n0/v-deo.html
Thank you so much. I just bought my model s and really wanted to do my own brakes. Where can we order therm? Or can I just go to autozone?
You can buy from Service Center over the counter, or from Brembo directly (cheaper/same exact parts) or from RockAuto (Centric brand is good for rotors and about half the Brembo cost).
Ever have significant front end noise due to brake pads chattering? Seem to have that on my MX and curious if that is a common occurrence?
I have not had that problem on any of my cars. If the pads and hardware are in otherwise good condition, I'd try just swapping side to side and reapply the lube. Or, just take them out and put them back in. It's annoying, but many times just "molesting" stubborn car parts has solved problems faster than in depth troubleshooting. If I had to guess, there's less lubricant on the either the top or bottom caliper sliding surfaces... so make sure they're CLEAN, clear, smooth and lubed.
(ok, lets try it this way)
Let's push 5 bucks each to this guy so he can get a Velocity clip head mount
Hi, I cannot understand what shims there are between the pistons and pads. For me it looks like the pistons are going directly into the pads. I assume cobber is the right lubricant on top of the pistons. Am I right?
The pads have a thin metal plate on them, in addition to the heavy steel pad backing. That plate gets copper grease between it and the pad. The part of the shim that contacts the piston should get the silicone-ceramic. If you used copper there, it's not really a big deal and I wouldn't worry about. Just correct it next regular service/lube. What you don't want is copper grease on the aluminum caliper slide surfaces.
It looks like you live on the coast and have a lot of salt water or salt water air, or maybe snow and ice causing the rust. I live in Arizona, you would never see brake rotors or calipers in that condition here in Phoenix. People still drive 50 year old cars that are in excellent mechanical condition. My 2015 model S has 41,000 miles on it, and the brakes look brand new, literally brand new. So it may just be your location, I hear that Norway has the same issue.
Pittsburgh-- so we have salted roads. In an extremely dry climate you don't have the moisture related problems, but you could have dust/grit that cause the same thing over a longer period of time. It's generally good practice to maintain brakes more often than every 50 years (ha). Mine looked PERFECT from beside the car, for the record-- appeared brand new, but inner rotors were severely pitted and the pads/pins were seized in the calipers. Looked great though. Even felt fine unless I really stood on the pedal.
Do not use copperpaste on tesla calipers. Copper reacts with aluminium and starts to corrode. Use cheramic grease.
Tesla specs copper for between the pad backing/shim.
It's true that some copper pastes are not safe for rubber seals, but the product shown is fine. The only part of the caliper it even comes close to is the piston and maybe a little smudge on the top of the caliper when sliding the pads back in.
I have since moved to just using the white silicone-ceramic grease everywhere since it seems to hold up better to the elements and is a lot easier to apply thinly, so that would be my revised recommendation.... but YT doesn't really make that very easy, so bonus points and wisdom for those who read the comments and listen to us! Thank you.
What is the one you use ? Can you post a link here ?
Google:
CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease - 5 oz.
Even a concentration of 1 ppm copper ion solution is known to perform serious corrosion on the aluminium surface. The metals that can cause deposition corrosion of aluminium are referred to as 'heavy metals'. Some important heavy metals are copper, mercury, tin, nickel,.. only use cheramic grease on aluminium calipers.
thanks great info
2018 model x 100D. Is 4 piston or one piston rear brake?
Should be same as S? That would be 4 piston.
You don’t need to take the caliper off
Correct -- for routine yearly service caliper does not need to be removed. I had mine off to replace pads/rotors after rust ruined the set (maintenance "accidently" deferred as the car was in bodyshop during season change).
Brembo standard.
What pads are those? tesla wants 2k to do my front brakes. F that
You can order OEM Brembo pads direct from their website-- I think they're like $50/set. I ordered from RockAuto; rotors were Centric coated and not sure what pads were... But I think parts were like $250ish delivered.
One more thing use the blue plastic gloves.
I usually wear mechanics' gloves, but when doing videos I don't so I can operate the phone screen and not get it dirty. The blue/disposable gloves always ripped on me.
👍👍👍