So glad I found this fix. I had 3 black rings on my red oak dining table. I had tried other methods to remove the rings with no success. It took less than 10 minutes for the ugly rings to disappear. Thank you, thank you!
This is great! My neighbors are having a yard sale and yesterday I bought a mid century modern side table that's gorgeous, but its match is in rough shape. It has these exact marks and some water damage. Now that I know how to fix it I might just pick up the second one.
I moved house & bags of things piled up until 3 months later saw a bag of rotten apples, the juice made a big black stain on my wood floor, will this work or any other suggestions, thanks in advance Mark, God bless
So that’s great, what do you recommend for stains on walnut veneer? I’ve got dark spots where it looks like someone put a hot pan on it, it’s not major but darkened the area
Thank you for making this video. I bought some oxalic acid and I am a little nervous about using it because I have been warned that it’s so toxic. But you didn’t wear gloves or a respirator or a mask or anything. Why???
i covered a wooden treated memorial bench with tarpaulin (to protect it in winter!) and a lot of the bench now had these black marks and lines which i have tried to get out, would this method help? thank you
Would this work on a veneer surface (that’s what I think it is anyway) that is blotchy, deep red toned, and a handful of shades darker than it was originally? I had put a lacquer over it, then it dried patchy, so the next day I took citristrip (worst mistake) over it all and it left me in tears because it now looks so horrible. These vintage pieces are difficult.
Love the video very easy to follow, having sanded back my dark oak sideboard I have found black marks that have penetrated into the grain and surrounding wood. I didn’t think it was that bad until I used danish oil to seal it which made the marks 10times worse. I have followed this tutorial for the last 2 day’s and after 2 applications over 24 hours it isn’t working for me... can I email photos for further advise please, I’m not sure what to do x x
Hi Miriam, Send a few pictures of your sideboard to Mark Gatterdam at mark@hardwoodartisans.com Once he has received the pictures, he should be in touch to advise you on how to fix this issue. Thanks, Hardwood Artisans
Hi-Thank you so much for posting this video. You've mentioned that lacquered finished furniture requires a different method. I was wondering what method do you recommend to get stains (stained legs from just using/denim dye stains) out of matte lacquered solid oak furniture. Will I be able to still use oxalic acid? I would love to get some of your expertise. Thank you so much.
Dye stain is just that. It dyes the wood. Oxalic acid is a neutralizer, and I do not think it would be of any use. I am extremely cautious to give any advice here, but it sounds like Acetone may be the only way to remove the stain. However, Acetone will melt lacquer......this may result into a refinish project. Mark Gatterdam Hardwood Artisans Designer
I wouldn’t sand it unless the stain is still there…. It cause a texture change to the wood that requires the whole table to be prepared ie sanded in this case… makes more work for no real need
You might want to refer to the manufacturer recommendations regarding wood flooring. Our videos are only for our wood furniture which is built from solid hardwoods and finished with a natural danish oil.
We recommend this process on unfinished or finished solid wood furniture with a Danish oil only. Please feel free to contact us at info@hardwoodartisans.com if you'd like one of our craftsmen to walk you through the process.
Dear Hardwoodartisans, Could you please suggest me how to remove the black stains from a wooden laminate flooring. The wooden flooring is quite old and with time it has developed molds in the gaps. The mold is not smelly or anything else. It is just there where the wooden flooring is coming out. I have tried bleach but the stain does not go. It will be a great help.
Hello, Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately, this type of work doesn't fall under our area of expertise. We strongly recommend consulting with your local flooring store. They should be able to help you more than we could. If you have any questions related to furniture, we may be of help. Kind regards, Hardwood Artisans
I sanded my table and the dark area is still slightly visible. can I use the acid since I've already sanded? Also my table is light in color like the one in your video. I love the natural look of it but what should I put on it to protect it? I don't want a stain on it or a glossy shine
Hi :) Really nice video; thank you! Quick question... does this acid need to be rinsed or neutralized before finishing? Mine would be for heavy wear patterns and staining by doors, etc., in a very old wooden floor, and will eventually be sealed with a water-based floor finish. I guess my point is that since it's a floor taking heavy abuse, I'm afraid that all of my hard work could be undone by the acid lurking underneath, possibly preventing an optimal bond with the finish, or even the acid continuing to break down the integrity of the wood...? Thank you for your help! :)
+Khadija Meredith A few additional general points regarding this process. The Oxalic Acid process will work on an unfinished desk from the 60's. It works on penetrating oil finishes, like Danish Oil, Teak Oil, Linseed Oil, Wax Based Finishes, etc. Regarding flooring repairs, the finish (polyurethane, varnish, etc) needs to be removed first. Then the acid may be applied. I have never found a need to reverse the acid or neutralize in any way. The key thing to watch out for is that the wood has fully dried, that there is no moisture from the acid process left in the wood. I will run a hair dryer over the wood, extracting any remaining moisture (it will bead up as the wood is lightly heated). I then let the wood stand for a day or two.
Once you apply a clear coat you lose the ability to apply heat or any other type of cleaning or repair product as it will dull the finish. We apply these techniques to solid hardwoods only and only those that have been finished with a natural Danish oil hand rubbed finish.
Hi Pat and thanks for the video. I have a problem that someone vomitted (!) on the wood floor of a cottage I rent. Although they cleared it up it's left a stain. Would this work on that? Will I be left with a big white splodge? The whole floor has a light colour stain. Would I need to remove that from the whole floor in order to keep an even finish?
Hello, We are not flooring finish experts. I think it really depends on if the floor is oil finish, polyurethane, varnish, prefinished from the factory, etc. I would contact a flooring company for an accurate advice. Best, Mark
I am refinishing an old love seat and decided to finish it with Danish Oil but it turned horribly yellowish, plus it was made out of different kinds of wood that show more when finished. Can I use this method to remove the Danish Oil and then bleach my furniture to match the colours? I am sick of sanding this thing...
Hi Carolina, The question posed here is more of a refinishing problem and less of a wood bleaching problem. Basically, the answer is "no, you cannot bleach different woods and expect the colors to blend. Because you have different woods in the piece (which is not unusual in this type of application) you will need to apply a fairly dark stain to cover and blend the different woods. Heavy stains generally require a lacquer finish as a top coat to hold the color in, so Danish oil will not work here. I always reserve giving advice on furniture I have not seen nor touched. My advice is just that, my opinion of a problem I have not seen. I suggest taking the piece to a refinishing shop and having them apply color and lacquer. You may have been going for a natural look for the legs, but in this application that is probably not possible to achieve. Good luck and be patient. Mark Gatterdam Hardwood Artisans Designer
hardwoodartisans Thank you so much for your reply!!! I'll do exactly that. I'm a beginner and this was a bit too advanced for me at this moment but that's how we learn.
+Devora Daniel A few additional general points regarding this process. The Oxalic Acid process will work on an unfinished desk from the 60's. It works on penetrating oil finishes, like Danish Oil, Teak Oil, Linseed Oil, Wax Based Finishes, etc. Regarding flooring repairs, the finish (polyurethane, varnish, etc) needs to be removed first. Then the acid may be applied. I have never found a need to reverse the acid or neutralize in any way. The key thing to watch out for is that the wood has fully dried, that there is no moisture from the acid process left in the wood. I will run a hair dryer over the wood, extracting any remaining moisture (it will bead up as the wood is lightly heated). I then let the wood stand for a day or two.
Great! Glad to hear it. After 45 years of building furniture we are still amazed by this video. It really shows the true nature of wood and how forgiving it is.
I am hesitant to make any suggestions without seeing the piece. If you are in the Northern VA area, I recommend contacting a restoration group, Hudson Woodworking,14620 Flint Lee Road Unit C Chantilly, VA 20151 703-817-7741 703-629-WOOD Hudsonwoodworking.com
Hi I have a solid Elm sideboard which was made in the 1980's and has a spirit based varnish, There is a lot of water damage on the top which has turned Black, How do I get the Black mark out? Can anyone help, I live in the Uk. Thanks Shelly I can email a pic
Hi Sheila, We may be able to help. Please send a picture of the piece and the water damage to mark@hardwoodartisans.com He should be able to tell you what your options are after seeing the actual damage. Best Regards, Hardwood Artisans
Yes, the acid will neutralize any wooden top. Once the chemical dries and is wiped away, and then some subsequent finish applied, the acid becomes inert, so I believe it is safe.
Mark, Thanks for the awesome tip! I just discovered several unfinished mahogany veneered doors that have been sitting in an addition on my house that incurred a leak a few months prior. Unfortunately the doors sat on a wet floor and the bottom rails are stained. You caution about using this process on veneers. Could you explain your concern and how you might proceed (I assume all risk and at this point the doors are already damaged). Any help would be greatly appreciated. (Sorry if this is a repeat but my post from yesterday was here this morning and then it disappeard?) Thanks, Carl
Hi Carl, the concern I have about this process as it applies to veneers is that veneer does not like water saturation. There is a risk of de-lamination. As these doors have already sat in water and appear undamaged (less the stains), this process is probably safe to try. Go ahead. Please take some before and after pictures for us!
No. That said, I am not a chemist, but I do understand that the cause and effect are the same. What actually happens to a stain in wood when oxalic acid reduces, the stain is not removed. Rather, the oxalic acid changes the chemical makeup of the ferrous to ferric acid. In other words, it changes the iron in the stain from one isotope to another, which is colorless. -Mark
hardwoodartisans wow thank you so much for that explanation! it's so impressive that you reply to all these people's comments! you are my UA-cam hero of the day!!!
No, I have never found the need to neutralize the chemical. Oxalic Acid is itself a neutralizer actually, and once the carrier (water) evaporates, the chemical reaction stops. Thanks for watching. -Mark Gatterdam
Hi Logan, Yes, it will remove stains from decks, wood boat parts, etc.It will probably be even more effective removing stain having no finish. In the hardware store, you can buy “wood bleach” type products to do just this. Mark G.
+Duff King To remove black marks from a table, there is no other chemical neutralizer I know of that will perform like oxalic acid. I am sure there are other things out there that will reverse the damage, but I have worked with this product for years, and am always impressed by the results. You can buy this product on line. It costs about $10 for a pound of product. -Mark
While we are not experts on teak wood, oxalic acid was used for years on teak wood boats. The metal would bleed into the wood. If this table has a lacquer finish - no. If it is finished with real oil, then yes, it should be fine. Best, Mark
@@missdonetime2754 was thanking him for being awesome...I actually did my first restoration on my first vintage mid century table with his tips 😀 I think a an expert now 😆😂 but I'm not 😉
In this instance we do not recommend applying this solution to the entire top piece. As we demonstrated in the video, the mixture was applied only to the stained area of the top.
So glad I found this fix. I had 3 black rings on my red oak dining table. I had tried other methods to remove the rings with no success. It took less than 10 minutes for the ugly rings to disappear. Thank you, thank you!
Glad to help.
Does it fade the surrounding areas?
Really glad that I found this , i am going to give it a try, thanks a lot, be blessed.
Perfect! This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the video!
Thanks so much for this video! I'm actually refinishing my dining table and wondered how to remove the black stains!!
Your videos and knowledge are impressive but I noticed how many comments you reply to and that is truly impressive. Great work keep it up!
Thank you Chad!
This is great! My neighbors are having a yard sale and yesterday I bought a mid century modern side table that's gorgeous, but its match is in rough shape. It has these exact marks and some water damage. Now that I know how to fix it I might just pick up the second one.
Sounds great!
Thank you very much for this video. This is exactly the solution I was looking for.
Glad it helped
Yours was the best one I have seen
Perfect!! Exactly what I needed to know!
I moved house & bags of things piled up until 3 months later saw a bag of rotten apples, the juice made a big black stain on my wood floor, will this work or any other suggestions, thanks in advance Mark, God bless
Thanks! Just want I needed to know.
So that’s great, what do you recommend for stains on walnut veneer?
I’ve got dark spots where it looks like someone put a hot pan on it, it’s not major but darkened the area
Thank you for making this video. I bought some oxalic acid and I am a little nervous about using it because I have been warned that it’s so toxic. But you didn’t wear gloves or a respirator or a mask or anything. Why???
i covered a wooden treated memorial bench with tarpaulin (to protect it in winter!) and a lot of the bench now had these black marks and lines which i have tried to get out, would this method help? thank you
Would this work on a veneer surface (that’s what I think it is anyway) that is blotchy, deep red toned, and a handful of shades darker than it was originally? I had put a lacquer over it, then it dried patchy, so the next day I took citristrip (worst mistake) over it all and it left me in tears because it now looks so horrible. These vintage pieces are difficult.
many thanks
Does this work for oak veneer flooring? I have water damage that's in-between the sections. I know it's 2mm veneer.
Would it not help to lightly scrub the area with a nylon brush or brillo pad while it is wet?
Hi there, great video I tried your process it did help but it was not 100% effective. What else can I try to remove the black staining?
Sometimes you have to repeat the process a few times.
On a table with a lot of damage, like the one in our video, repeating the process is necessary.
Does this work for stains caused by bleach?
I've tried oxalic acid and it didn't do anything to the stains on my oak sink countertop! Is there anything else I can do? Thank you.
Would this work to remove a battery acid stain from a car battery?
Hi will this method remove blue mould staining found in untreated sap woods?
Love the video very easy to follow, having sanded back my dark oak sideboard I have found black marks that have penetrated into the grain and surrounding wood. I didn’t think it was that bad until I used danish oil to seal it which made the marks 10times worse. I have followed this tutorial for the last 2 day’s and after 2 applications over 24 hours it isn’t working for me... can I email photos for further advise please, I’m not sure what to do x x
Hi Miriam,
Send a few pictures of your sideboard to Mark Gatterdam at mark@hardwoodartisans.com
Once he has received the pictures, he should be in touch to advise you on how to fix this issue.
Thanks,
Hardwood Artisans
Hi-Thank you so much for posting this video. You've mentioned that lacquered finished furniture requires a different method. I was wondering what method do you recommend to get stains (stained legs from just using/denim dye stains) out of matte lacquered solid oak furniture. Will I be able to still use oxalic acid? I would love to get some of your expertise. Thank you so much.
Dye stain is just that. It dyes the wood. Oxalic acid is a neutralizer, and I do not think it would be of any use.
I am extremely cautious to give any advice here, but it sounds like Acetone may be the only way to remove the stain. However, Acetone will melt lacquer......this may result into a refinish project.
Mark Gatterdam
Hardwood Artisans Designer
Will this work also for a black stain in a porch?
I wouldn’t sand it unless the stain is still there…. It cause a texture change to the wood that requires the whole table to be prepared ie sanded in this case… makes more work for no real need
I have a dark stain on a hardwood floor from an air conditioner leaking onto it for a few days. Do you think this will work on that?
You might want to refer to the manufacturer recommendations regarding wood flooring. Our videos are only for our wood furniture which is built from solid hardwoods and finished with a natural danish oil.
"8 to 1", meaning, 8 parts water to one part acid?
Can I use this method on lacquered oak after stripping off all lacquer?
After sanding the table top thoroughly I still have horrible black marks.
We recommend this process on unfinished or finished solid wood furniture with a Danish oil only. Please feel free to contact us at info@hardwoodartisans.com if you'd like one of our craftsmen to walk you through the process.
Dear Hardwoodartisans,
Could you please suggest me how to remove the black stains from a wooden laminate flooring. The wooden flooring is quite old and with time it has developed molds in the gaps. The mold is not smelly or anything else. It is just there where the wooden flooring is coming out.
I have tried bleach but the stain does not go.
It will be a great help.
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately, this type of work doesn't fall under our area of expertise. We strongly recommend consulting with your local flooring store. They should be able to help you more than we could. If you have any questions related to furniture, we may be of help.
Kind regards,
Hardwood Artisans
I sanded my table and the dark area is still slightly visible. can I use the acid since I've already sanded? Also my table is light in color like the one in your video. I love the natural look of it but what should I put on it to protect it? I don't want a stain on it or a glossy shine
We recommend Kerf's lavender wood lotion to maintain your natural wood finish. It provides a dull finish, not glossy or shiny.
@@hardwoodartisans Thank you, I'll get some!
@@hardwoodartisans Thank you, I'll get some!
Hi :) Really nice video; thank you! Quick question... does this acid need to be rinsed or neutralized before finishing? Mine would be for heavy wear patterns and staining by doors, etc., in a very old wooden floor, and will eventually be sealed with a water-based floor finish. I guess my point is that since it's a floor taking heavy abuse, I'm afraid that all of my hard work could be undone by the acid lurking underneath, possibly preventing an optimal bond with the finish, or even the acid continuing to break down the integrity of the wood...? Thank you for your help! :)
+Khadija Meredith A few additional general points regarding this process. The Oxalic Acid process will work on an unfinished desk from the 60's. It works on penetrating oil finishes, like Danish Oil, Teak Oil, Linseed Oil, Wax Based Finishes, etc. Regarding flooring repairs, the finish (polyurethane, varnish, etc) needs to be removed first. Then the acid may be applied. I have never found a need to reverse the acid or neutralize in any way. The key thing to watch out for is that the wood has fully dried, that there is no moisture from the acid process left in the wood. I will run a hair dryer over the wood, extracting any remaining moisture (it will bead up as the wood is lightly heated). I then let the wood stand for a day or two.
@@hardwoodartisans p
are those dark stains toxic? Kinda like mold?
He should have said you must rinse the acid off thoroughly before sanding. You don't want to breathe the dust.
Neutralize with soda
could you have applied stain after the lightening of the table and then put a clear coat on top?
Once you apply a clear coat you lose the ability to apply heat or any other type of cleaning or repair product as it will dull the finish. We apply these techniques to solid hardwoods only and only those that have been finished with a natural Danish oil hand rubbed finish.
can you use this on hardwood floors?
Hi Pat and thanks for the video.
I have a problem that someone vomitted (!) on the wood floor of a cottage I rent. Although they cleared it up it's left a stain. Would this work on that? Will I be left with a big white splodge? The whole floor has a light colour stain. Would I need to remove that from the whole floor in order to keep an even finish?
Hello,
We are not flooring finish experts. I think it really depends on if the floor is oil finish, polyurethane, varnish, prefinished from the factory, etc. I would contact a flooring company for an accurate advice. Best, Mark
I am refinishing an old love seat and decided to finish it with Danish Oil but it turned horribly yellowish, plus it was made out of different kinds of wood that show more when finished. Can I use this method to remove the Danish Oil and then bleach my furniture to match the colours? I am sick of sanding this thing...
Hi Carolina,
The question posed here is more of a refinishing problem and less of a wood bleaching problem. Basically, the answer is "no, you cannot bleach different woods and expect the colors to blend. Because you have different woods in the piece (which is not unusual in this type of application) you will need to apply a fairly dark stain to cover and blend the different woods. Heavy stains generally require a lacquer finish as a top coat to hold the color in, so Danish oil will not work here.
I always reserve giving advice on furniture I have not seen nor touched. My advice is just that, my opinion of a problem I have not seen. I suggest taking the piece to a refinishing shop and having them apply color and lacquer. You may have been going for a natural look for the legs, but in this application that is probably not possible to achieve. Good luck and be patient.
Mark Gatterdam
Hardwood Artisans Designer
hardwoodartisans Thank you so much for your reply!!! I'll do exactly that. I'm a beginner and this was a bit too advanced for me at this moment but that's how we learn.
I have an unfinished pine desk from the 60's. Could I use this approach to remove the water spots?
+Devora Daniel A few additional general points regarding this process. The Oxalic Acid process will work on an unfinished desk from the 60's. It works on penetrating oil finishes, like Danish Oil, Teak Oil, Linseed Oil, Wax Based Finishes, etc. Regarding flooring repairs, the finish (polyurethane, varnish, etc) needs to be removed first. Then the acid may be applied. I have never found a need to reverse the acid or neutralize in any way. The key thing to watch out for is that the wood has fully dried, that there is no moisture from the acid process left in the wood. I will run a hair dryer over the wood, extracting any remaining moisture (it will bead up as the wood is lightly heated). I then let the wood stand for a day or two.
Thank you so much, its very beautiful, Im glad I can do this. thanks for taking interest in answering.
Omg.it actually works! :D :)
Great! Glad to hear it. After 45 years of building furniture we are still amazed by this video. It really shows the true nature of wood and how forgiving it is.
Hi, I have a 17th century lowboy with this issue but don't know the finish on it. Do you have a recommendation for removing the gray stain? Thanks
I am hesitant to make any suggestions without seeing the piece. If you are in the Northern VA area, I recommend contacting a restoration group, Hudson Woodworking,14620 Flint Lee Road Unit C Chantilly, VA 20151
703-817-7741
703-629-WOOD
Hudsonwoodworking.com
I live near Wilmington NC 28411. Do you know of anyone in this area?
Thank you very much.
I am not familiar with any company in that area. Sorry!
Sell it and go contemporary.
Hi
I have a solid Elm sideboard which was made in the 1980's and has a spirit based varnish,
There is a lot of water damage on the top which has turned Black,
How do I get the Black mark out?
Can anyone help,
I live in the Uk.
Thanks
Shelly
I can email a pic
Hi Sheila,
We may be able to help. Please send a picture of the piece and the water damage to mark@hardwoodartisans.com
He should be able to tell you what your options are after seeing the actual damage.
Best Regards,
Hardwood Artisans
Hi
I cannot seem to send a picture of the piece of furniture.
Regards
Sheila
I used oxalic acid on a pine floor, will I be able to use a water based varnish on top?
Yes, that should be fine.
Can I use oxalic acid to remove rust stains on wooden floor? Or can I use WD40 also?
We don't advise on wood floors as they usually have a stain or varnish. Our furniture is mainly finished in a natural Danish oil.
Could you tell me..... if I use one half cup of water, would one teaspoon of oxalic acid be enough?
Hi Pat, Yes it will be. -Mark
Could this work on stained wooden worktops? And would it (the worktop) be safe (not poisonous) after?
Yes, the acid will neutralize any wooden top. Once the chemical dries and is wiped away, and then some subsequent finish applied, the acid becomes inert, so I believe it is safe.
hardwoodartisans thanks.
Can you spell the name of that acid? We can't get it if we do not know what it is and I could not understand you.
Hi Sam,
Oxalic acid was used in this video.
Mark, Thanks for the awesome tip! I just discovered several unfinished mahogany veneered doors that have been sitting in an addition on my house that incurred a leak a few months prior. Unfortunately the doors sat on a wet floor and the bottom rails are stained. You caution about using this process on veneers. Could you explain your concern and how you might proceed (I assume all risk and at this point the doors are already damaged).
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
(Sorry if this is a repeat but my post from yesterday was here this morning and then it disappeard?)
Thanks,
Carl
Hi Carl, the concern I have about this process as it applies to veneers is that
veneer does not like water saturation. There is a risk of de-lamination. As
these doors have already sat in water and appear undamaged (less the
stains), this process is probably safe to try. Go ahead. Please take some
before and after pictures for us!
Hi, do u sanded the wood before apply the acid?
No.
Is oxalic acid the same as Soda Crystals?
No. That said, I am not a chemist, but I do understand that the cause and effect are the same.
What actually happens to a stain in wood when oxalic acid reduces, the stain is not removed. Rather, the oxalic acid changes the chemical makeup of the ferrous to ferric acid. In other words, it changes the iron in the stain from one isotope to another, which is colorless.
-Mark
hardwoodartisans wow thank you so much for that explanation! it's so impressive that you reply to all these people's comments! you are my UA-cam hero of the day!!!
Are those stains mold/
They are newsprint stains.
Does the surface on which the Oxalic Acid was used need to be neutralized when done? (Baking Soda)?
No, I have never found the need to neutralize the chemical. Oxalic Acid is itself a neutralizer actually, and once the carrier (water) evaporates, the chemical reaction stops.
Thanks for watching.
-Mark Gatterdam
Will this work on untreated/unfinished wood?
Hi Logan,
Yes, it will remove stains from decks, wood boat parts, etc.It will probably be even more effective removing stain having no finish. In the hardware store, you can buy “wood bleach” type products to do just this.
Mark G.
hardwoodartisans o
what if u don't have that acid what else can u use
+Duff King To remove black marks from a table, there is no other chemical neutralizer I know of that will perform like oxalic acid. I am sure there are other things out there that will reverse the damage, but I have worked with this product for years, and am always impressed by the results. You can buy this product on line. It costs about $10 for a pound of product.
-Mark
order some 2-day
Mark,
Can I use this oxalic acid on a teak table
While we are not experts on teak wood, oxalic acid was used for years on teak wood boats. The metal would bleed into the wood. If this table has a lacquer finish - no. If it is finished with real oil, then yes, it should be fine.
Best,
Mark
Can I use this method on raw wood?
On unfinished wood or wood finished with Danish oil. This process is not recommended on lacquered or painted furniture.
this has given me hope. but im going to wear gloves and eye protection.
Ur f-ing awesome 😲
@@missdonetime2754 was thanking him for being awesome...I actually did my first restoration on my first vintage mid century table with his tips 😀 I think a an expert now 😆😂 but I'm not 😉
Hopefully everyone understands that the acid needs to be applied on the entire surface, so it all matches and stains the same.
In this instance we do not recommend applying this solution to the entire top piece. As we demonstrated in the video, the mixture was applied only to the stained area of the top.
The minute I click on a video and hear loud music, I click off. If you want more clicks, ditch the music. I'm outta here.