The Ultimate Capo Comparison | 8 Different Capos on Electric and Acoustic!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Continuing on his series of essential guitar concepts and comparisons, after our ultimate acoustic string comparison, Chris McKee is back to run down an often misunderstood subject-- capos. Discussing the implications of fretboard radius, pressure, adjustability, intonation, quick changing, and the differences on acoustic or electric guitars, this comprehensive class compares 8 different capos: the Dunlop Bill Russell Elastic, the Shubb, Kyser, Dunlop Trigger, D'addario Tri-Action, Taylor, G7th, and Thalia offerings. Take a listen and see which of these works best on both acoustic and electric, and find out for yourself if you've been using the wrong capo for all these years.
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#guitarcapocomparison #capo #guitarcapos
I have used most of the ones that you reviewed, I have settled on the Schubb, and am very happy with it.
Thanks for NOT obscuring the comparisons with fancy fingerwork and display of talent. One of the best comparison videos I've seen!
I also subscribe to the Tommy Emmanuel capo adjustment. I push down on the strings a couple of times and my acoustics are in tune, but I don't throw mine over my shoulder when I take them off! I am using the G7th ART and like it a lot. I also have 2 Schubs. My first one wasn't wide enough for a 1-3/4 nut size. The first one worked well with my V neck Martin. The G7th is my choice, but it took me a few times to start getting the tension right.
The Kyser has one option to help change some tension. If you slip the clear rubber piece off and flip it around, the one side is thinner than the other. It isn't much, but I've found it to be just enough to lessen some tension, if needed.
I also have a few of the Dunlop trigger capo's and have never had any tuning/intonation issues using it on either acoustic or electric. It has always worked well for me on both. It seems to have a slightly less tension than the Kyser.
I was astounded watching John Prine’s Tiny Desk Concert when he whipped out one of those Dunlop elastic capos to use on his Martin D-42.
So all in all, the Shubb still is the winner overall you can’t beat the Shubb in price , value and performance. I disagree with the reviewers comment of you can’t fine tune the Shubb after it is mounted. Of course you can, just adjust the tension knurled screw while it’s mounted. I have been using Shubb for almost 15 years and no other capos comes close.
I've had a Shubb for over twenty years. Never felt the need for any other.
One nice thing about the Shubb is that you can take it up and down the neck and still get the right pressure. In addition to the adjustability, the Shubb positions really well just over or just behind the frets to avoid intonation problems, and the low profile doesn't get in the way when you chord right around the capo (think F barre descending down to E open). It's also good for partial capo-ing (e.g. leave the E or A string at full length but capo at 2nd fret). And... it fits in the Altoids box along with the picks.
And one more thing... I put that Shubb right on top of the nut when I'm playing without a capo. There are no intonation problems, and then tension easily adjusts to the thicker width right around that spot. (I can also play the same capo on the banjo.)
@@bits-of-bass The only thing is, I can never decide which way up to fit it on the neck.
@@arthurgordon6072 Either way is fine. Shubb official videos show it done both ways.
G7th hands down. You can totally adjust once in place by adding more tension, or just click it open and reset it; it only takes a second. It was to me one of the most impressive re. intonation, and I originally bought one after reading that Joni Mitchell used them for their stability with all her various alternate tunings and the fact they don’t change the intonation.
I've had everyone you've illustrated. I will always choose the shubb if I don't plan on moving it. The kyser and dunlop work wonderfully. The g7 and especially the Thalia are overpriced crap. The Thalia is wonderful at marketing and they have nice people answering emails, but it's not for a professional nor even anyone serious about using capos.
I fell for the Thalia hype and bought one on line - its an expensive piece of shit - I never use it - back to basics
@@sputnikginger I was trying to be nice, but yeah, you've kimda got it right.
I've had every capo on the list and if you think the g7th is overpriced, you clearly didn't use it long enough. For a traveling live performer, the g7th is the superior product. It's sturdier, better built and heftier. It's intuitive unlike the Shubb and can achieve the same tension by building muscle memory. I change put it on and take it off faster than clamp style capos without having to retune my guitar. Shubbs are old faithful, but there's a reason why a lot of fingerstylists and a lot of live performers prefer and have switched over to g7 capos. Kyser and Dunlop are inferior products that don't deserve your money. The tension is too high and they degrade overtime and get so loose to the point of unusability. You can actually risk damage to the neck especially when you need to quickly take it off and switch instruments. I'm not much for Thalia since it's an inferior g7. All my g7 have lasted years of heavy abuse. Getting crushed under crates of speakers? Turned out fine. Flew out of the bus? Fine. Kysers, Dunlops and Shubbs are more likely to break or wear down compared to a g7. I've snapped a Kyser in half during multiple shows and Dunlops can just wear down. Shubbs just take too much time if you're constantly changing instruments live.
@@timaragon I absolutely prefer the g7 over the Thalia. I'm a down and dirty, keep it simply guy and the kyser keeps doing a great job, night after night. Seems to work well for the greatest guitar player on the planet (Tommy Emanuel). He's taunt me a thing or two about getting a it right in tune, almost instantly and being able to key change within the song. Around PA, jersey and NYC, you rarely see a street performer or club professional use anything other then a dunlop, kyser or shubb
@@everythingbobbywolfe Well, it's pretty obvious why they're used more in those regions. Kyser, Dunlop and Shubb are easily most popular capo manufacturers on top of how often they're seen on TV. They're more prominent in the U.S. and have been around longer. Plus, they're seen as American companies, so they're most likely to buy them where you are. G7th was founded in 2004 in London. Yet, they're beloved by studios and studio cities all over the world like Nashville, have won design awards, and are now being adopted by the European crowd as it continues to rise in popularity.
And, for studio sessions, Tommy Emmanuel has used G7th like in his song Angelina. He also has been seen using Shubbs in the studio. Why wouldn't he use the Kyser in those situations? It's most likely he just likes the ease of use of a Kyser and finds it easier live. I honestly think it still takes more time to angle the guitar, put on the kyser and pull on the strings to ease the tension then using your ring finger and thumb to perfectly clamp with a g7th. It's all down to personal preference at that point, but there's no way the G7th is overpriced when you consider the build, engineering, design and the fact it's mainly produced by a smaller company overseas.
I personally like the Ernie Ball capos. Similar to a Kyser or Dunlop (I have both), but a little less pressure and has a curved surface on one side and flat on the other so you can choose which works best for different guitars.
Kyser Capos are made in Canton Texas. I'm proud to own and use a capo that is American and Texas made.
I don't care if it is made on Mars as long as it is excellent at what I need it to do.
The kysers are great because they're affordable and they're so easy to use and they're very well made I've had some Kaiser look alikes that haven't been worth a shit and they lose their spring tension way too quick cuz they're made by garbage.
I definitely agree I've had probably most of my kaisers I haven't bought any new ones electric or acoustic probably in close to six years we're still working just fine when I need to capo.
I have been using the Shubb for over 20 years on my acoustics and classics and will never use anything else. They are the best capo in the world.
G7ths are the only capos I'd put above the shub. I've had a couple and never came across a fretboard radius that it doesn't adapt to and fret perfectly with no buzz and minimal pressure required. They are expensive though but it's the only one I've came across that has adapted to every guitar I've tried it on and I've tried it on many many guitars of various neck and fretboard styles.
@Joan Snow I was talking about the performance 3 with what they're calling ART which they designed to help it adapt to different radius fretboards. I've seen them on ebay for around 35 quid which I think well worth it.
I also have a g7th heritage model but that basically lives in it's box except maybe the odd time I use it on my 12 string acoustic.
@@braveheart4603
+1
Same here, works awesomely on every guitar I've tried it on.
@@braveheart4603 Try the new Earnie Ball "AXIS"...it is incredbible. I'm long term Shubb user, but dam! this capo is awesome.
I feel like the G7th Newport is what the Shubb should’ve been because unlike the Shubb, you can adjust the tension while it’s on the guitar. Great little capo.
My fave capo? G7th. It works without having to retune (well, maybe just a little) or change pads to anything at all except pressure on Telecasters, Rick 12s, and Marin D-45s. That's good enough for me. Placed on the bass side puts more pressure on the lower strings which need it more. Of course, your guitar must be well intoned to use any capo or as you go higher it will be intrinsically out of tune.
Almost 50 minutos of Capos, this is sick!
Great review, Chris. The big problems with the G7 are a) as you say, you have to get used to using them; b) there is a tradeoff between clarity of tone, intonation and buzz - very hard to get all 3 good. I use one but was dissappointed at UK£33. I notice you didn't do Paige, which are as simple as you can get, competely adjustable and very slender profile. I'll probably end up going back to mine and write off the £33. Thanks again.
I got a Shubb capo a few months ago after using a Kyser forever. I can't recommend the Shubb enough, it works great and feels very solidly made. The adjustability is worth every penny more.
I’ve gone the other way, longtime Shubb user but thought I’d give a Kyser a go as everyone uses them. I like the Kyser a lot but still prefer the Shubb. Happy playing!
I agree! I started with Shubb and along the way, people would give me capos try. None compare to a Shubb. They got it right the first time.
Agreed! I have recently discovered Shubb capos and they outperform capos that cost 3x to 4x the price.
Which shubb did you buy?
Or does it not really matter
My dad always buys those stupid elastic capos for some reason. He will see this video & I hope he sees this comment! Yeah, your capos are stupid! Actually, he went with something like the G7 but I know he didn't pay $60 for it, so it might be one of their older versions because it wouldn't be clone from a local shop. I'm stuck between the Shubb & the G7.
I would like to see a capo comparison video that also focuses on string bending. The most common problem is that bended strings can move under the capo and get stuck on that off position.
My Luthier told me NEVER one of those spring loaded clip capos, so I use the Shubb
Bro! Really? There is an Ad in every capo change 😡
Btw really nice comparison, personally I own a G7th and it’s the best capo I have ever owned, not cheap, but it comes with lifetime warranty so that’s a plus, the intonation is pretty good with the capo and the A.R.T technology is awesome how it shapes to the radius of your fret board. I love it, and I recommend it to anyone who reads this comment. And if you are like me who is always trying to find the best gear for your guitar, let me just say that I spent a long time trying different capos until I came across the G7th and never looked back.
I just ordered mine today and can’t wait to try it on both my electric and acoustic guitars. Glad I came across your comment. Thanks for confirming my purchase was a good one.
Peace
Fifteen minutes' worth of content packed into just 50 minutes. What a value.
Yes, I do this thing with this channels videos where I skim and if he's still talking I skim forward again. Using this method I find I always get to the end before hearing anything useful. We have websites for verbal accounts of sound. UA-cam should be for sounds and moving visuals.
Adjust the speed bro
Just to let you know about it, Jowoom (a Chinese company) released a capo with a tuner in it! It’s pretty affordable for a decent capo and tuner. It might be something your store or others want to look at. It’s called the GrabTune.
I play ukulele, so it’s really too long for my application...so it would be nice to see a uke version too.
On ukulele, I really like the Schubb Lite for Ukulele (adjustable tension) and the Ultralight Capo by G7th (minimal).
I know...not a ukulele channel, but there’s still a lot of information on this channel that is applicable and worth knowing.
The Thalia says to place it in the middle of the fret, not up against it like a regular style capo. This helped me with the tuning stability a lot.
ITS MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION THAT ALL CAPOS SHOULD BE PLACED IN THE CENTER OF THE FRET. HOW THIS BULLSHIT ALL STARTED OF PLACING IT DIRECTLY BEHIND THE FRET IS BEYOND ME. ONCE THE NONSENSE HIT UA-cam IT WAS "SAW IT ON THE INTERNET".
Yeah, I just don't get the "right behind the fret" approach in general. A simple A/B between that and centered between the frets should prove in 30sec that putting the capo up against the frets is just a plain bad way of doing it.
@@TRICK-OR-TREAT236 Also as a professional I have to strongly disagree. When you play a bar chord doesn't it sound better and ring more true when your 1st finger is just behind the fret? I have never tried a Thalia capo and they are very pretty but ridiculously over priced. Personally I don't really care what a capo looks like. I have an old Martin D-35, a couple Taylors, including a 32 year old 855c 12 string, Tele, Strat, and nothing I've ever tried works as well as the original Shubb and I have always placed it just behind the fret. I paid $15.95 nearly 40 years ago for a brass Shubb that works like a champ to this day. I think that is a testament to it's smart design. I don't see what possible advantage putting a capo mid fret brings to the guitar.
@@TRICK-OR-TREAT236 Why are you yelling?
@@slooky14 THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU JUST SAID AND HOW STUPID THAT IS O.K. ? I GUESS YOU SHOULD PUT YOUR FINGERS IN YOUR EARS RIGHT ? ARE YOU DOING IT NOW WHILE YOU READ THIS ? BY THE WAY ........... WHY ARE YOU WHISPERING DUDE ? L.O.L. 😂🤣😂
The Shubb is my favorite
Capo is not close enough to the desired fret. Placing midway between frets pull too sharp.
Agree 100%
Always put the capo right on or *just* behind the target fret -- just as you play with your fingers. You'd never put your fingers halfway between two frets... so why would someone do the same with a capo?
I'm a Shubb fan, and that picture of that capo halfway between those two frets is like nails across a chalkboard to me. Right here:
ua-cam.com/video/NLubRI2KpNs/v-deo.html
I saw Dan Folgelburg in concert like 20 yrs ago using a Shubb so I bought one and it’s all I use.
Very interesting video. You put out some very useful information. I am in the market for a Capo so this was perfect timing for me. Thank you for sharing. Greetings from Lubbock. 🤠🎸🤘
Glad it was helpful!
I've used a kyser for years, it's not perfect but it works for me.
That elastic capo is made for a classical guitar. The one for steel string acoustic has a tan, spongy rubber that conforms to the radius. They don't buzz if you use the right model.
G7th is my favorite. Never looked back. Isn't my most expensive though. That would be the Steinberger Baritone Transcale Guitar. The only Capo that comes with a Guitar.
I love my Paige -- adjustability of the Shubb, but it can rest behind the nut easily so playing with/without the capo becomes really easy! Having used the Kyser quick-change, a couple of Shubbs, and the Paige, the last is my favorite.
Shubb for recording. G7th Newport or a D'Addario Planet Waves Artist for daily use and gigs.
The best thing I learned is that your capo radius needs to match your fret board radius. 😎
Chris, thanks for you’re capo review. You did however omit a few, or at least a couple great capo’s. Paige and D’Addario NS capo pro are excellent capo’s. I don’t blame you but tell your producer to do more research.
I’ve used G7th capo for years and they are fantastic. Your going on about adjustment ? There is no need for adjustment on the G7th , when you put it on just press it down behind the fret , easy pezy . My guitar is always in tune with this capo it the best and no need to adjust
Yes use the G7th capo correctly , NO ADJUSTMENT , JUST PUT IT ON , PRESS AND PLAY , it’s no good pressing lightly that not the design , you supposed to press firmly once that way it will not knock your guitar out of tune , if you start messing with how much pressure to put on it then of course it will knock your guitar out of tune , just press firmly once and if your guitar goes out of tune then you’ve place the capo in the wrong place.
Love my Thalia capo. (Wait for a sale! 😁)
I have all of theses capos and also an Elliot which is very expensive , but I still keep going back to my Shubb the fact that you can fine tune it is great , it still pays to tune after you put it on just to make sure .
I wonder if they will ever create the perfect capo ,here’s hoping .
Shubb looks like the way to go for me..I bought a Dunlop a few months ago..not very happy with it to be honest.
Thanks for the video, it moved along nicely!! 😁👌✌
we've come a long way from using pencils and hair ties
Wow! What are the chances that Alamo Music Center makes a video about capos right when I was looking for a new one? Lol thanks for a super detailed video on all of these fantastic guitar capos. Great job!
Used Kyser for years, but recently bought a Stubb C1 for my D-18 and I love it.
I've used all the capos listed here and from a hundred different brands. G7th is easily the best built of the bunch. It's sturdier, doesn't degrade over time like Kysers or Dunlops, and can achieve shubb accuracy of tension with a little practice. After a week to a month of straight use with a G7th, most people can't go back because it's so much faster than a Shubb and has similar performance. It doesn't have the problems of having too much force or tension like Kyser or Dunlops and other similar style capos. It also isn't likely to damage your neck like those capos are infamously known to do.
Unfortunately, the electric guitar example isn't done well here because it needs practice on how to properly apply pressure from Acoustic to Electric and vice versa. After getting used to it, it shouldn't go out of tune ever. If it does, you're doing something wrong. The G7th is unforgiving in that way because it relies on accurate muscle memory when applying pressure on the strings. But, like with everything on guitar, practice goes a long way.
True, doesn't take long to learn what pressures work best.
But even without the muscle memory, all you need to do is put it on fairly lightly, and then fine tune it by squeezing until the pressure is just right. Slowly apply pressure while playing the strings; when the buzzing stops, the pressure is exactly where it should be.
I would even venture to say the G7th is faster than a Kaiser (certainly in my experience anyway). The G7th, you just put it on and 9 times out of 10 you're ready to play (that other time, you take it off again to find the guitar was out of tune anyway, lol). With Kaiser (and similar no doubt), you first have to find *that* particular position to make it sit right, and basically nearly always have to retune . . . . . which of course also means another retune when changing positions or taking it off.
G7th = faster, easier, and sounds better.
The Thalia instructions say to place the capo halfway between the frets and not right behind the fret. I've been using Thalia capos for quite a while and the placement is important.
I’ve found Thalia Capos buzz pretty bad. Their customer service is pretty poor, too. I unfortunately paid for an expensive 😂 product that was damaged within a year from light playing, and customer service was a nightmare to work with. Need to find a competitor product which is why I’m here!
Just another interesting, well thought out, and informative video. I have a Kyser that I've had for 30 years, a Thalia (Indian Rosewood), and a D'Addario Planet Waves NS Tri-Action. My favorite is the Planet Waves for the adjustability reasons you mentioned. I was scratching my head when you mentioned the pick holder so I had to get it out, and holy smokes...there it was. Never noticed it before. You learn something new everyday.
I might get one of those DÁddario Planet Waves adjustable ones. I have a beautiful Thalia, which I have ordered about 5 years ago, great to look at, but never use it, cannot get it on right, never sounds really good, so I use a handmade Czech one which looks like the Yamaha (excellent capo, adjustable!) and the Taylor capo, always works very well for me.
I have a Shubb, really good, easy and tension adjustable 👍...I gave up Kyser (hard on my - old - hand muscle and not adjustable)...🎶🎶🎶
I find it interesting that your "baseline" tuning of that guitar shows that it is consistently flat on the 5th and 6th (low E and A) strings. Is there a reason you didn't tune those strings to proper pitch to begin with? Yes, it is true that because it is only a baseline tuning used to compare with and without capo, absolute pitch isn't really necessary because it is all relative, but still you should start with an in-tune guitar so that we don't have to analyze to which degree the capo deflects the intonation on each string. Another observation: Your placement of the capos was inconsistent. Sometimes you would place the capo right behind the fret and other times it would be in the middle between the frets. Some folks don't think that matters. My experience is that it does. It affects clarity. Also, sometimes your placement of the capo was "cockeyed," that is it was not placed perfectly perpendicular to the fretboard. This can increase the problem of string buzz as the capo doesn't follow the radius of the fretboard consistently. I have found that the best results for intonation, clarity, and prevention of fret buzz (assuming the tension is correct) come from placing the capo perpendicular to the fretboard and just behind the fret -- just as we would place a finger in order to produce a note with the greatest clarity. And so, it seems that proper and consistent application of a capo is key to good intonation and clarity. It takes a few seconds more than just throwing it on the fingerboard haphazardly, but precision placement pays off.
I have two Kyser capos. One is a full 6-string cap. The other is a "Drop D" tuning model which leaves the low E string open. It has a cool lever that pushes down on that low E string when you want to momentarily fret it on the fly as you play. I have found that those capos keep my guitar perfectly in tune as long as I set them as just described AND as long as I don't somehow "tweak" the strings by inadvertently pushing or pulling the capo toward the treble or bass side slightly while applying it. I also have two Shubb capos. Like the Kysers, one is full 6-string and the other is a "Drop D" tuning model. What I have found is that with the Shubb capos I am more likely to "pull" the strings out of tune (sharp) upon engaging the clamp. In order to prevent this I have to carefully hold the capo on the strings in place with one hand while engaging the clamp. It is a hassle, so I just use the Kysers instead.
One other suggestion I'd like to make -- perhaps for another video: Provide instruction as to the proper application of a capo and then go on to demonstrate the different units. That said, I'd like to say that your video demos are some of THE best on UA-cam! They have become better as you have used better mics and better recording sound level settings. You share your wealth of knowledge about acoustic guitar construction and tone woods, etc. Keep it up! I'll look forward to your next offering!
Really constructive comments here and your experience exactly echo's my own. Specifically, I agree with the perpendicular placement and the "just behind" the fret location. They absolutely affect intonation and clarity and it can literally mean the difference between having to re-tune or not between songs while you listen to your audience getting increasingly bored!! I might be cheeky and suggest you should perhaps consider posting on YT with precise observations like that :-) Host was excellent too of course and very useful. But based on your input, I'm going to buy a Kyser (already have a shubb and a G7th and although the G looks cool, I also find it less than perfect in terms of tuning accuracy (which lets face it, along with clarity from buzz/dead strings is the holy grail) So thanks for the input...dam useful :-)
Jesus you must have a sad boring life to have typed all of this
😂
@@cn310 Actually, they are excellent comments that saved me time from having to type out some of the same comments and subjecting myself to unnecessary comments like yours.
@@Dakota.Covers Oh I am extremely apologetic kind sir, I understand now that you are a being from the future who must own only the top of the top capos the market has to offer, I would like to retract my statement and wish you a very merry 2021, once again, my sincerest apologies for wasting you time with my pitiful comment.
It doesn't bother you that the Kysers aren't adjustable? I've never bought a capo before and I was going to get one of the D'Addarios for the adjustment screw but people really seem to love the Kysers
That’s why I feel like my guitar can’t handle the tuning with huge intonation pbs
I have all of the capos you showed except for the G7. I have several Shubbs: uke, 6 string, 12 string, half capo, etc. and I think Shubb is best overall but I still use the Thalia most of the time because its quicker and most of my guitars have the same radius and never had an issue from guitar to guitar. The Taylor capo looks like my Paige, guessing they make it. I have a mic stand with a dozen quick release capos clamped to it and after a while the pad deforms to the shape of the mic stand! Is best to not keep them clamped for long periods. I also have a glider capo that is metal and has two springs on each side and it attaches similar to your $4 model by stretching around and latching. It does work but not one of my favorites. The G7 capo you demo'd would be too temperamental for me. Good video, very informative.
Thank you again, Chris. I enjoy your humor along with the discussion on the criteria for selection (capo: tension, fretboard radius, adjustability- continuous vs. detent, string pad). "What to look for in a fill-in-the-blank" are quite helpful. Andy Powers' talk on picks and strings is great from Taylor Primetime. And tomorrow a discontinued Breedlove non-cutaway guitar model arrives!
Thanks for sharing!
Agreed I never learnt this
I have found with any type of spring capo that when putting the capo on people can tend to push the strings a bit and when the capo clamps on it secures with a slight bend on the strings. You really need to get the capo opened up, bring onto the neck and then slowly close so it comes to rest on the strings. Makes a big difference
Also sometimes it can help to put the capo on in a slight angle. That depends on the string gauge and the size of the frets. On my 6-string acoustic I need to put the capo on slanted, so that it sits on the lower strings more in the middle of the fret and on the high strings closer to the actual metal of the fret. But it all comes down to using good tools and using them a lot. I use a Kyser capo like all the time, because I transpose everything around a lot and often use it with guitar duos so that I play a different voicing of the same chords to make it sound more interesting.
Helpful video, but it certainly could have used a lot more zooming in on the capos.
I have the G7th silver capo, so this comparison will be interested, this capo suitable for high end guitar as will protect neck from marks
You missed the best capo!!! For years I used a Shubb but a few months ago I tried a D'Addario Pro.....Same style as the Shubb but a little longer arm and a little sleeker looking. I switched for both acoustic and electric and I'm not going back.
Earnie Ball recently put one out called the "AXIS".....it's pretty inexpensive, and hands down, the best Capo I have ever used.
I'm a long time, long term Shubb snob, but this capo (the AXIS) has sold me. Better than a G7, better than Kaiser, better than ANY of them.
I'm shook! :)
I got the Taylor capo but man getting it back off it's a pain,It's really good until you want it off
Somebody talked me into getting a Taylor capo. It sounds fine but is horrible to get off and on.
I tried a couple different brand/types when I got back into playing and ended up falling in love with the Shubb S1... Until I saw Molly Tuttle using a Shubb called the Fine Tune. At twice the price of the S1 I hesitated, then ordered two, one for my Taylor 12-string, and another for my Taylor 6-string. They were perfect for me, easy to put on and remove, stored up above the nut, and didn't have a lot of extra stuff hanging off and behind the neck. Taylor didn't have their capo in that same style, or I would have tried that instead. I will say the Fine Tune seems to be easier to remove than the Taylor version, and works fine on my Larrivee guitars just as well.
I have an old Wilkinson that works well on tighter radius necks, but I don't use it very often because my cheap Nordic Essentials trigger type works great when placed immediately behind the fret.
That’s rubbish the G7th has no issues it’s you
I have a friend who plays a mean guitar. His main flaw he always called a capo, a CAPON! I always asked him how he was going to keep a neutered
rooster on his guitar neck? He always gave me the strangest look.
I've used the tri-action capos for years for adjustability but they don't work with the neck carve on my 517 Builder's Edition. Tried the G7th performance 3 and it's perfect. Works great on my electrics too. I guess alot depends on strong gauge.
Anyone use a G7 Nashville?
All capos without a tension-er should be tested on the 1st fret, as that's where the most tension is needed. Some of Chris' satisfying demonstrations may fail miserably on the first fret and you will have wasted hard earned cash on a faulted review.
The Kyser has a handy silicon sleeve on the back grip for adjusting how much tension is applied to the strings. Chris says some bend this back grip in his demonstration, whereas you only need to pull off the silicon sleeve and reapply it with a 180 degree turn.
Ok, while I too prefer my Shubb (nice folks, they even sold me replacement rubber parts when mine wore out!), one of the things that is nice about the trigger style capos is that they can be left on the head stock for quicker access.... I have also seen some that "roll on and off" - a bit different than the Taylor though... great job, btw.
Id think the positioning to the fret or strumming hand consistency would be more important than the capo curve or pressure assuming its fretting all strings? Not that much of a guitarist so let me know if im wrong. Never thought of quality of my capo until this video.
I got a good laugh in the airport when I saw the capo I was using way back being sold as a device from which to hang clothing while traveling. I kid you not, it was my capo. It is long gone
so I can't recall the brand name.
Thanks for the shoot out! I like the Shubb but recently bought a Thalia. I haven’t had the buzz issue (low E down), but I wish they would find a better way to mark the radii on each pad. The molded in numbers are hard to read. I have guitars with several different radii. Color coded would be one way to do that. Also note that you need to order , at small extra cost, special pads for a 14 inch radius and for 12 string guitars.The new G7 looks interesting as well.
I gotta admit that I have laid my eyes on that sexy Thalia capo. However, I have used Shubb for many years and those have worked just perfectly. I use the 12 string capo version on al my 6 strings, even on my Fender Tele. The extra length of the sleeve makes the capo able to fit any neck - even if it is not placed right at the center on the back. I gently hold my thumb the moment I tighten the capo, and the guitar is in perfect tune on any fret.
You know I like your videos but this one not so much. The real test of any capo is how it works on the 1st fret.
None of the videos on youtube ever put the capo on the first fret. Because some of the strings will hum and buzz.
But the Shubb capo on the first fret never hums or buzzes. I have played guitar 58 years and I use a Shubb capo, simply the very best capo on the market.
For the quick change styles, if you're not careful you can push the strings sideways, that being said, ANY time you put a capo on due to physics it's going to pull sharp and the guitar should be tuned to the capo position, this occurs even on high end models. The same thing happens to a degree when you fret a note, again it occurs just to the physics of pulling the string down to the fret board, James Taylor came up with a way to combat this by tuning certain strings some degree to the flat side, check out his video on it.
Yes and no, and capos with adjustable tension help a lot (compared to eg spring tension).
Scientifically, purely looking at the physics, then yes any capo will pull the strings sharp. As do bar chords. As do single fingered notes. By the nature of the instrument, anything other than an open string is pulled and sharpened. A good guitar is designed with that in mind. A good guitar set up with good string height and intonation also has that in mind.
Cheaper capos and capos without adjustable tension are pretty much a guarantee that you'll have to retune when you pop in on. But capos with adjustable tension and adjustable radius do a very good job of mitigating that issue, often requiring either no retuning or just string-pull fine tuning.
Yes, there are unavoidable exceptions to that; for example the first couple of frets are always nasty and will almost certainly require a retune no matter what you use; and obviously for something like recording you'd be tuning it with the capo on regardless. But with a good guitar with a good set up (which should be a given for anyone serious about this topic) and a good quality capo correctly used, you'd be surprised at how little retuning is generally required.
Btw, I've seen that James Taylor vid, it's very good. I felt so redeemed - up until I saw it I thought I was the only weirdo that tuned strings deliberately flat, lol.
He brought up one point that I had to find out the hard way over time, and that I absolutely wish I'd known when first starting out - that guitars are an imperfect instrument and it's impossible to tune them perfectly. Honestly, trying to tune guitars when I first starting playing drove me mad. I knew HOW to tune, technically. But used to get extremely frustrated when I'd cross check tunings, and notes would never match up right. The short of it, ended up eventually developing what I dubbed my "compensated tuning". Thus . . . . I felt so redeemed, lol. It coincidentally is actually very similar to the tuning JT describes.
The Shubb is my favourite, at this point
For me:
I've got that model G7th, the one with ART. And I absolutely freaking love it, so much so that it's the only time I've ever written to a manufacturer of a product to tell them so and thank them.
Switching from the ease-of-use Kyser (which I still think is a pretty good capo, but only ever keep as a spare now), I admit that it took a little getting used to with squeezing the capo on instead (like, a couple of days). But that's one of the advantages (and was a BIG issue I was having with Kysers); it means you can apply the exact amount of tension that you need, no more and no less. Your fingers know how much tension to use, that's how you play bar chords, so it's only a small step to nailing the capo tension. Or even better - I go light on the tension, and fine tune by apply more pressure until it's on just tight enough to stop buzzing; at that point it's basically applying ideal tension. And with the ART tech, it's applying an evened out tension across all the strings. It's capo use without juggling semi-muted, buzzing, and pulled-sharp strings. Which ultimately affects the whole tone of the guitar, something that I wasn't expecting but that just blew me away when I first heard it. With no other way to explain it - it sounds like the guitar is supposed to sound; I never noticed or appreciated how much other capos had altered the tone until I got the G7th.
So yeah, I'm unabashedly a 100% G7th fanboy now, lol.
And we framed and hung your letter in our reception room for all to see. Just kidding, I don't work for G7. Anyway, has the rubber on yours become dislodged and you had to re-glue it like I have?
@@f3uibeghardt522 Nah, never had any problems with it. The rubber's fine.
The only capo that I've had to reglue the rubber back on to was my first budget capo, which I also had to resew the strap back on to. A six dollar piece of crap, lol. Still got it in the kit as a "backup", even though I haven't used it in something like 20yrs.
I have 4 out of the 8 including the Thalia and to me the G7 does the best job with staying in tune on all my guitars
Own a ton of Thalia stuff, including their Capo. Absolutely phenomenal company. I simply dedicate each Capo to the guitar it will be used on. They sale custom Pick Guards, Truss Rod Covers, Bridge Pins, Picks, Pick Pucks etc etc. Their stuff is simply amazing and worth every penny. Great customer service as well and made in America.
The radius of the capo is important but, if you're playing mostly acoustic guitars, not critical: the rubber pad on a good capo will usually compensate for small radius differences between fretboards. For me, the key thing is the adjustability of the tension, so that you don't get rattles when you change guitar or put the capo on the lower or higher frets. I don't think a single spring can have the right tension on all guitars or all frets. So I prefer a capo with a fine-tuning screw mechanism. The SHUBB you demonstrate is great but, at least with the one I have, you have to adjust the screw before clipping the capo in place: this means sometimes having to take it off again and guessing how much to tighten or slacken the screw. The best, inexpensive, capo for adjusting the tension with a screw once the capo is in place, is the PLANET WAVES CAPO PRO. This works great on acoustic and electric guitars: you adjust the tension just enough to stop rattles and the rubber pad takes care, nicely, of your intonation. Another excellent capo is the G7th yoke-type Heritage, which you mention. Again, you adjust the tension with a screw, and the pad - in this case G7th's special "adaptive radius technology" - does the rest - no rattles and no intonation problems, whether you've switched guitars or whether you're at the bottom or top of the neck. Like for the Taylor capo, the ads for the Heritage make a big deal about "storing" the capo behind the nut. I wouldn't bother: by the time you've tightened the capo enough to keep it in place there, it's putting pressure on your strings and is likely to affect the intonation (as you mention). None of the three capos I'm recommending are one-hand jobs or suitable for moving up or down mid-song. But so what? They're really easy to use and adjust BETWEEN songs. No rattles, good tone on every string and great intonation on a whole range of guitars. They're WORRY-FREE - and two of the three are not very expensive.
From a players perspective, I think the Paige is the most versatile capo. Because of it’s small size it can be attached behind the nut. You can play any song that doesn’t require a capo and immediately slide the Paige into place from behind the nut for songs that do. You are never searching for your capo! Because it’s pressure sensitive with a screw adjustment you can very easily snug it up to the strings for the proper tension in a matter of seconds this is huge when performing one song after another.
I think you're missing the intonation element. Its going to be a little sharp on the other frets due to the imperfect nature of guitar intonation. The capo force can make things slightly sharp but unless you tune your guitar after placing the capo its never going to be perfectly in tune with some frets being worse than others. So you should just use a clamp style capo and retune after placing it if you want perfect tuning/intonation.
First off: nicely done comparison. The video is rather watchable and proceeds nicely.
I have Planet Waves, Kyser, G-7th (two different versions 1 & 2), Dunlop, and Shubb. I primarily play acoustic 6 strings with medium strings. In my experience, the Planet Waves causes the greatest problems for me and I have to mount the sucker in such a way that it does not sit flush on the back of the neck. Good to note that others have good experiences with this capo. I don't really check my tuning with the Kysers I have (mostly at home alone) but I enjoy them a lot. The Dunlop is a similar experience to the Kyser. The Dunlop and Kyser capos are very easy and enjoyable for me to use (not a gigging musician). The G-7th takes more work but typically gives good results. The Shubb? It's not as easy for me as the Kyser/Dunlop but the fact that it is adjustable does help keep the guitar from going too sharp.
My favorites in order (remember, I am not a gigging musician as of this writing):
1) Kyser
2) Shubb
3) Dunlop
4) G-7th
5) Planet Waves
I have played gigs and, if I was going to do so, I'd have a Shub for each guitar I used set for what I anticipated playing.
With all that said, if staying closest in tune is important, go with the Shubb.
Which planet waves capo did you use though, they have multiple models. Is it the thumbscrew adjustable one, CP01?
Kyser is the only capo i like. I haven’t tried many but i bought a cool looking one for 30$ off amazon and it is absolutely terrible lol so I will be sticking to the kyser for now :)
The D'Addario Tri-Action is my go-to so far, and it works quite well but I am curious to try the Shubb also.
No easy change I think you need multiple capos
Couldn't hurt to have some variety!
I've also been a long time shubb capo user but honestly I bought that thing like 30 years ago and it was the first version design before they improved it a bit. Still love what a great capo it has been but significant downsides of not being able to easily clip it to the headstock being one of the major ones for me as well as timely micro adjustments always needed for that thing because if you squeeze it onto the first fret you will have to readjust the heck out of that tension setting if you use it on the 4th or 5th fret.
The shubb capo is very good once you have it adjusted correctly but there's this whole dance involved that takes a good 30 seconds or more which usually means you start by trying to clamp it and if it seems too tight or too loose you adjust the attention, then you try to clamp it again seeing if the tension setting is right, back and forth back and forth until you get just the right tension, usually this happens within 15 seconds or so.......
But I really got tired of this...... It is a fantastic capo and I never have string buzzing when adjusted correctly but the problem is constantly having to adjust it!
I opted to upgrade to the very good D'Addario capo..... The tri-action NS one...... Now I can easily clip it on the headstock and if the tension is a little bit too tight I just quickly listen to screw, most of the time if I had it on a higher Fred and then put it on fret one or two again and it's a bit loose all I do is clamp it in a second or two quick little turn of the screw cuz you can adjust it while it is still in place. I absolutely love that I can tighten the tension without having to unclamp the thing entirely like the shubb. If there is any string buzz at all it's usually just the first string and a quick little turn of the screw while it is still on the guitar without even having to remove it quickly fixes it.
Bottom line is the shubb is very outdated in 2024..... The D'Addario tri-action is top-notch in my opinion as it allows very quick capo changes and better yet very quick micro adjustments to dial in the tension. Absolutely love having it on the headstock with me at all times so I don't have to look on the counters and area around me to locate where I last placed my capo. I thought I would never use the built-in guitar pick holder gimmick it also has but to my surprise it does a great job of clapping tightly onto your pic so you don't have to worry it will fall out...... Surprisingly I even use the little cute gimmick of the pick holder the capo has as well. I keep the capo and guitar pick clipped to my headstock at all times while not playing it..... Simply pick up the guitar, pluck the pick from the capo on the headstock and start strumming.
I still think if I ever get brave enough to drop the money required on the Thalia capo it might be even better but for now I'm quite happy with my D'Addario capo and probably won't find the need to upgrade, unless I suddenly find myself in a new tax bracket maybe.
For those with the attention span required hopefully this review has been helpful....
Great video and very thorough. Greatly appreciated by real guitar players everywhere.
Hi Chris...Great demo...I'm with you on the Shub and also agree with buying the one made in the USA and not "other places" that we shall not name. What a lot of guitar players who don't use capos believe is, it only for pickers who don't know how to play in Bflat or D Sharp but it should be pointed out that many pickers want the open chord SOUND....For instance playing a John Prine tune say "Paradise" where you want that low E tuned down to a D and play it in an open D position. However, if you can't SING it in the key of D then to get the same effect you need that capo. One other thing about capos in general and Taylor guitars. I have an older 110 and a BBT. As soon as I use a capo on either of them I hear a noticeable loss of brightness in that signature Taylor resonance. I can speculate all I want but I'm not a luthier so it is only speculation when I say that perhaps it is the material of the nut itself that promotes or enhances the Taylor SOUND. When I place my Shub on my OMC-Pa4 Martin there is not that loss of resonance, or on any other of my acoustic guitars...Has anyone else noticed that with the capo on your Taylor...Chris??
Fantastically detailed video. Thanks 👍
I feel so ignorant though, because...how come no one seems to talk about universal capos on classical guitars? Would all of these work on a classical guitar just the same?
(I'm mostly curious about the G7th & the Thalia)
I have 8 or 9 capos, and my favorites are the Shubb and the D'Addario/Planet Waves NS Pro.
The disadvantages of the Shubb, not mentioned in the video, are how it flops around when it's not installed, and more importantly, the fact that you can't clip it on the headstock when it's not in use. Otherwise, it's great, and is my favorite (though I don't have a guitar with a fretboard radius under 12.5").
The NS Pro uses a thumbscrew, and as such can't be changed as quickly, though it's also not terrible--certainly better than an elastic band or a toggle capo, and the thumbscrew is very smooth (the NS Lite is slightly larger and worse). However, it is TINY, you can clamp it onto the headstock (even my cramped travel guitar headstock that I can't get a headstock tuner on has room for it), and you can dial it in perfectly.
I recently got a Kyser, and I am... underwhelmed. The one thing I like about it is how quickly it can be moved from the headstock to the fretboard and back again.
Thank you for the excellent video 😊
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Modern capos like the Dunlop and Kyser are way over-priced garbage. The springs are way too strong and for stage use they are useless since you are continuosly re-tuning. I've been gigging 45 years, fingerstyle acoustic, and the best capo I have is a cheap, 3 quid adjustable banjo capo.
I gig 5 days a week and use a capo almost every song…. have used the kyser capos a lot and I have found that they may be causing my frets to get dented because they might be too tight.. I will switch to the shubbs and see if that helps.. any suggestions welcomed. thank you!
John 3 verse 16 ^_^
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Used to have a Kyser. I switched to the Dunlop because I was told that the Kyser actually makes the strings feel too tight
I have been using the same kaiser type capo for 25+ years on acoustics and electrics with zero problems. I actually didn't know there were tuning problems with capos...
If you want the Shubb, buy the old version without the wheel. The wheel version is less suitable for fat necks or high on the neck. To much pressure in that case. Another problem is that the lever has a bow. When your hand hits it, the capo drops on the floor unless you applied a lot of pressure. Also, pressing down the high e needs a lot of pressure. Using the Shubb upside down solves that problem, but then it gets in the way of your hand
Great comparison video Chris! I wonder what your thought would be on the G7th Newport that actually combines micro adjustability with the cam system?
I have the Kyser and a couple others and the G7. The G7 beats them all for clarity for not putting the acoustic out of tune. The best way I found to put it on was from the bass side, and when you put it on, just place it down directly over the front and apply an even pressure from the front - very quick to get on correctly every time after just a couple of practice tries.
The G7th Nashville and the Shubb S1 are what I use right now. The Nashville is my favorite whenever I play. Wouldn't mind venturing out but I've enjoyed those two. The Kyser Quick Change seemed to be too strong and pull strings out of tune more than the Nashville for me.
Great video ! Can you recommend a capo that would fit an epiphone masterbilt DR-500mce acoustic? I’ve tried a few different models and they all fit on the back part of the neck a bit awkwardly so the capo kinda rotates and puts more pressure on the top strings and not enough on the bottom .
Hi, Thanx for the review.
Can you please next time play a B7 chord with the capo on, just to see how mutch it gets in the way of your finger and palm on the back.