DIY Teardrop Trailer: Top 5 Frames | Pros and Cons
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- Which style of trailer frame should you choose when making your own DIY Teardrop Camp Trailer?
That's a big question that doesn't have one answer. Mark breaks down the top 5 frame styles that teardrop trailer builders use and the pros and cons of each. Mark has built/worked on teardrop trailers on all of these frames so this isn’t just your average list.
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Overland Trailer is a teardrop trailer company that started in 2007. We specialize in teardrop camper production, parts, kits, and education for DIY Teardrop Camper enthusiasts. It is our greatest joy to see our community camping in a teardrop trailer that we had a hand in helping create.
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Overland Trailer assumes no liability for property damage as a result of any of the information contained in this video. All material provided within this UA-cam channel is for informational, educational, and entertainment purposes only. Some processes may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Do not attempt anything in this video unless you accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad.
Overland Trailer is proudly a family-owned business born in the Great Pacific Northwest of the United States and at home in the rocky mountains of North Idaho. From this base, we've guided campers in over 30 nations build their own teardrop and tiny camp trailers.
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In This Video:
Mark covers the pros and cons of 5 trailer types:
1. Repurposed trailers/materials
2. Bolt-together utility trailer kits
3. Welded Utility Trailers
4. DIY Welded Custom Trailer
5. Teardrop Trailer Kit for Welding - Навчання та стиль
We're starting a series of videos on DIY teardrop trailer frames!
We'll eventually show you how to make the trailer frame that we've put in our commercial trailers since 2009.
Very informative. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Playing with Sticks Collab brought me here!! Great content!!
Thanks for coming over! Glad you like the videos.
Love it! Thanks for watching
Very educational! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for hanging out with us Brian! I'm glad you found some good information here.
Great info 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I use old pop up campers that have been sitting and neglected. My first two where free and I gave $200 dollars for the one I'm building now. They already have a title so I strip them down to the frame and start from there. You can salvage the appliances and electrical system and save a ton of money on them. They are built with good axles andi
100%!
I picked up a Voyager two place watercraft trailer that has a sturdy tube steel frame. Looks like I will need to weld in a few more tubes and gussets. I am in the early stages of design. It will be a fiberglass and carbon fiber foam core box. If design doesnt work out I just bolt on bunks and sell it. Thanks for your videos!
Sounds like a great project! Thanks for watching the videos. More to come.
You’ve convinced me to learn to weld and build my own trailer. The powder coating is a problem them though. Can I use bedliner paint or another paint alternative to get around powder coating?
Love it!! Yes, Powdercoat works but Raptor liner and traditional car paints can work too. We're working on a video that covers the pros and cons of each finish. Some long term testing too so it's taking a while.
Saw a cabinet maker use 1" Marine plywood attached to a locally welded 3 leg/fan 3" box steel tongue that reached about 5 feet under the plywood bolted through with plates inside. 13" wheels on adjustable torsion axle. Going on 10 years old now. Cross country may times.
Solid build. That's great.
Hi Mark, I notice your first trailer was 10' x 5' platform, whereas now your recommended kit is 8' x 5' size. I'm inclined for the larger size. Any comments from you on the two sizes?
Good question. I'm just building out a home shop right now so I can build another 5 x 10 like I did my first. Videos are coming!
The extra galley space is a plus. Better fit for a family of 4.
Love it
Thanks Daniel!
Good edits, devil is in the details, and a lot of people don't know some metals don't get along.
Thanks Jesse!
Looking at a big box utility trailer, have you seen anyone build their teardrop ON TOP of the rail? I was thinking I could weld in some center bracing, rip out the mesh, and use the bottom portion as storage (battery box, slide out drawers, fishing gear, shovels, etc).
That's a great idea. I know there have been a few trailers built in the fashion you describe. Often there are deep drawers that slide out from the sides and back. The tradeoff is that it makes the trailer taller than average but it really isn't a big deal in most cases.
You mention the placement of the axle and it is something I wonder about, since I see some trailers (campers) with axle to the back, some middle and some more to the front. It affects breakover and departing angles. But also weight distribution. And I don't know enough to decide what effect of different options would be. Do you have a video about this? If not, could you make one, please? Thanks for the helpful info.
A good rule of thumb with teardrops is the 60/40 rule. 60% of the length up front and 40% behind the axle. That's a good place to start. Obviously, this will change some based on how heavy the tongue or galley area are in the trailer.
Two out there things. 1) I have an engineer designed, and plans sold trailer for a 26', 2000 pound, trimaran where the only metal parts are the axle attached to angle iron on both sides, and the tow element designed to attach to a wooden frame up front. If properly designed and assuming the loads are taken off properly, you basically don't have a metal frame, the frame is the wooden box of the teardrop. This would mean that the box has to be engineered with some integrity, but that is all to the good anyway, since it means a more durable box, and possibly a lighter one. Getting the strength right isn't really an issue, massive catamarans, when they were made of wood, as some still are. Use beams like 2x2 foot, not 5 foot square. So getting the global loads carried is not a problem, and you could basically do it on the floor if one preferred. But the assembly can't just be a bunch of pockethole screws... Needs liquid joinery like the Chesapeak has, if not the complex shape.
2) A few years back in the British press there was advertising for a paint product that was supposed to solve the issues around painting metal, and provide the kind of durability we expect from top end treatments like galvanizing. Durabiltiy as in long term rustproofing. Probably not bulletproof as to abuse. Problem is, that I never herd anything else about it... But if there is something new out there, it would be great.
That's exactly why, in my welding video, I talked about the axle types and how to support the frame laterally. Great points.
Years back, my "top of the line" Harbor Freight had 12" highway rated tires. However, the wheel bearings were non-standard, and it did not accept standard bearing-buddy grease hubs, which scared me. I want standard bearings and bearing buddies from now on.
I primed and painted all chipped spots and bolt-threads at build time due to clean and ease of access. Worked well. The parts I touched up held up better - I wish I would have just used the rest of the can to paint more.
I hear this alot about their trailers. The old ones certainly seemed to have been better. Your list of maintenance is right on the money to keep one on the road.
I have used metric (25mm) bearings from Amazon, but I don't trust them; hence I change them every 5000 miles. I have a spare hub with 1" bearings which works well so I may upgrade to 1" hubs all around this year. I can find quality 1" locally.
@@jrendt2157 Thanks. I was looking at new hubs, but I just sold the trailer.
Check out a second hand Australian Army No.5 Trailer. Amazing. Bullet proof. Highly adaptable.
Nice tip!!
I'm building a camping trailer using the smallest HF trailer they sell. My bearings use red lithium high temp grease. All the bolts have washers and lock washers. Tires are rated to 80mph. To compensate for axle placement I've reversed the style to have the kitchen, propane tanks, solar and batteries to be in the front of the rig, not behind. Tracks great. Even my outside electrical is in conduit.
Great ideas. Thanks also for sharing updated information. This video is 3 years old and good to know that they're trying to make that frame better. It should reduce some of the long term buyer's regret we see.
I purchase a second trailer around 12 plus years ago. Tyres look like needed replacing back then. I only replaced floor.
Cool! 12 years later and still on the road. That's great!
HF had a recall on their bolt together trailers because the supplied tires were not DOT rated for highway use. Check for recalls and be prepared to buy new wheels if not DOT rate. Added expense along with plywood decking and other required add-ons for any project.
If I were to use one of those big box trailers, I think I would desing the teardrop to sit on top of the existing frame and bolt it down. Fill in the trailer frame with wood panels. I'm not a fan of a single tube tongue; I'd feel safter with a triangle tongue.
Hi Dan. Yes, you're on point with these tips. Thanks for sharing!
Where is good ole fashioned Athena? Your doppelgänger is Madz from sail life! Sub’d
Thanks for the Sub. Checked out my twin. Great channel.
I got tent trailer frame. Cut the sides off so it's narrow and lighter. What I plan to do is add electric brakes and build a camper of some sort. I want to cut all the frame apart so I'm left with two frame rails going down each side. Tied together with plywood. I had a European trailer for a while and it was huge!! And only 400kg dry with cable brake system.
Tent trailer frames are a great find. They're really set up well for a teardrop.
5x8 northerntools aluminum trailer. JB weld the joints. And it weighs ~190 lbs.
Just check that axle and tires. Some of them aren't highway rated and the axles have proven to be problematic for some of our DIY customers. A sub 190lb frame is awesome. That was our goal with our trailer frame kit too (119 - 130 lbs).
Aluminum reacts with stainless, but it will with steel as well
I have thought of a utility trailer and build a Teardrop Pod that can go in and out and even be dropped on site in case you need trailer for whatever reason. Have you ever seen one like that?
That was how I started my first teardrop plans in 2007. I wanted it to be removable. I'd seen a few others that were. I never removed it just because it was a pain and I was gifted another trailer from a family member. You can read about it here: overlandtrailer.com/learn/free-plans/
I've had an idea put together, 5454 aluminum in as long a segment as I can, 5x6 popup frame so it doesn't need too much, If I find I can use thinner aluminum and still maintain longterm strength, I'm in. Right now, I'm kind of doing this
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Each [ ] is a hollow box, I'll use long a piece as I can each time, to save on cutting and extra weight/potential danger from brackets/first time welding
The front and back extend out 2ft, the center will popup to allow a weatherproof tarp topper, 6ft of standing space! It should handle my 6ft1 self for single person comfort, any tips to lower weight for motorcycle towing would be appreciated
Awesome ideas. Love the detail of your design.
When I’m able I’m doing number 4 but I won’t do a tear drop. I want a modified square drop.
#4 is my preferred choice as well. Square drops are great!
All HF tires are highway rated now. All of mine are rated to 80mph.
I looked at our HF here in North Idaho and they had a mix of tires on their trailers. However, the employee told me that the newer ones do have better tires on them. That seems like an upgrade they're making. If anyone is looking for these, it's probably good to ask to make sure the purchase is of a new one. Thanks for the information!
I always thought those Harbor Freight trailers would not go over 45 because of the wheels and axle. Let me know if this is true and if it is if there's something you could do about it like replacing it if it's not too difficult or expensive
Hi Joe!
You're exactly right. Just as I said at 6:28, they can't go over 45 because of the tires and wheels. It can be fixed. Replace them with radials. However, you've still got the issue of the wheel bearings on the stock axle and axle placement isn't right for teardrops either. I'd replace all of it. Inexpensive up front? No. Long term, much safer and far less maintenance.
Actually, for me, I'd skip it entirely and just stick to option 4 in this video.
@@OverlandTrailer that's what I was thinking copy that and thanks for the response
I have 25,000 miles on my homebuilt TD. It's built on a HF 4x8 trailer. I replace the bearing every 5000 miles or so. It's not really that much of a chore to repack bearings at home. On the road, yeah, it's a pain. I carry a spare hub with prepacked bearing; it takes about 15 mins to change the hub if you have bearing problems. As to speed, I have towed my TD for hours at 75mph or more with no issues other than really bad gas mileage. When I bought mine Harbor Freight sold two types of 12" tires with different speed ratings. The ones I got were rated for over 80mph. That being said, if I were building another one, I would go with a custom trailer with bigger tires set further back and reposition the battery to the back.
HI j rendt. Great feedback for anyone considering the HF trailer. Sounds like you lucked out with the highway tires too. Great idea to carry an extra hubset around. A quick swap and you're down the road. Thanks for watching!
My preference would be purchasing an aluminum trailer and building it up from there, but 1) I don't have a welder, and 2) I don't know how to weld aluminum. and 2b) since I've never done it before, I presume my aluminum welding is going to be craptacular.
So, it looks like none of these options are going to work for me, what about buying an enclosed utility trailer and converting it?
Hi Dan. Your choice is certainly an outlier in the Teardrop world. I'm not certain the type of aluminum trailer you're thinking but I did mention one in the segment on utility trailers (starting at 7:56). Most of those principles apply to aluminum as well. As far as taking the enclosure off of a utility trailer. I'd call the manufacturer. Many, but not all, rely on the strength of the enclosure on the trailer as well. Removing that could compromise the strength of the trailer. Again, it was made for a purpose that it wouldn't be serving as a teardrop so I'd check all of the boxes before moving ahead. Thanks for commenting and watching!
สุดยอด
Thanks Vi!
Just saw your video. You only build teardrops for cars would you have anything or know someone that may have plans for teardrop for a motorbike.
Hi Ghostrider, We don't' have motorcycle specific plans but many our customers scale the plans down for motorcycles, quads, trikes, and even bicycles. The principles are all the same.
please turn on caption for me.
when you made comment about the bolt-together trailer, I did my research and learned two things that resulted in your information is incomplete. old version harbor freight bolt on trailers is not DOT certified and got big fines, and a bunch of other problems as well. Harbor freight withdrew old version from warehouse and stores. after an hiatus, as of late 2019, now selling newer version trailer. I tried search for new videos, either new review or comparison on the old and new. Can you link or share any details on new version bolt on trailers?
Hi Rynait,
Thanks for checking out this video and for the feedback. As you can tell by the date of this video (November 8, 2021), I am talking about the newer imported trailers (harbor freight, northern tool, etc) in this video. Yes, the older ones had even more issues than I discussed in this video. However, what I am sharing in this video is up to date with the current versions of Harbor Freight and Northern Tool.
You can pull up their user manuals on their websites and read the same things I put on the screen of this video. As a point of clarification, you'll also notice that they still are not DOT approved but do come with a manufacturer's certificate of origin that indicates compliance to DOT (which means they can be approved on a trailer by trailer basis - via state inspection).
Sorry but at this time we're only able to produce videos with English subtitles. Simply click the CC to see them.
Thanks!
@@OverlandTrailer I only wanted to know what is visually different on those HF trailers. :)
As far as I know, Harbor Freight does not have to provide DOT certification documentations to customers. I do not know anything about manufacturer's certificate of origin vs DOT certification(s) on light and tires.
@@rynait Sure! Visually: They are a thinner gauge steel than the older ones (a common complaint). Some of them seem to have locking nuts on the hardware (but not all). The couplers are thinner metal and slightly smaller (on some of them). I think the locking hardware (on some of them) is only major upgrade from the older models (solving a pain point for sure).
From what I know, they reassesed their trailers because they had cheap 800 lb non-radial tires on a trailer that was supposedly rated for 1750lbs. I don't know that they changed much (if anything with the design). Different tires and some changed language in their manual seems to be their solution. Again, it all comes back to inconsistencies of manufacturing and quality control.
They don't provide DOT certification because they're "technically" not selling a trailer (legal loopholes). They're selling parts (manufacturer's certificate of origin) that can become a trailer. They claim to be compliant with DOT but that is ultimately up to a professional to inspect the trailer to determine if it was properly constructed by the end user.
That's what we've seen and heard -Pretty much what is in this video.
@@OverlandTrailer thanks for pointing out the differences, in particular the appearance and the "DOT" factor.
That trailer in the store parking lot you say cutting the top rail off weakens it that is true until the the camper structure is added on then it is stronger than what left the factory remember your bolting on a large box structure that is built to be ridgid generally with 6 half inch diameter bolts
But a weak point remains the trailer tongue the tongues on all trailers are subjected to all sorts of forces pulling and pushing on them the tongue should never be bolted on and always welded and run the full length of the trailer
This will add strength to the trailer ive seen those harbor freight trailers break and bend theyre garbage metal and garbage bolts holding them together and should never be used for camper trailers the just cant handle the gale force wind pressures exerted on it
By the large surface areas of a camper body being attached to it
Thanks @georgiaridgerunner 79 - good point about the body of the trailer providing strength. Not all DIY builders build the same, thus the warning about the frame. You're right, if the body is done right, this is a solid option.
I completely agree with your comments on the Harbor Freight trailers. A nightmare in the long run. Plus, not made in North America so again, not a fan. Thanks for your input!
I had mine built from aluminum. Frame and shell . It cost 2200.00 in materials alone. Not counting the wheel hubs and torsion bars. It is made to last and not rot . Screw wood.
Build it Right, Build it Once!
Solid tube aluminum frame tig welded all around.
Nice setup! I've made a few of those. Aluminum frames are nice because they don't need finishing. My Fav part.
A frame from a cheap Pop Up camper seems to be the best budget option.
If you find the right one in decent shape, it's a good way to go!
Does anyone go longer than 10', or does that start to introduce other issues?
Sometimes people do make them longer. The issues that happen are more seams in materials as most materials are 4' x 8' or 5' x 10'. A 5' x 10' trailer is also pushing the definition of what a teardrop trailer is (for the purists) and a longer one would be that much further outside of the typical definition - but who cares? It's DIY for you.
What about an enclosed trailer
Hi Lickety. Most enclosed trailers are like option 3 in this list. They're made, somewhat locally, and are usually weld together. The things I'd check out before purchasing is the axle to see where it's made and make sure you have manufacturer's contact information. Thanks for hanging out!
Marc hi I am in Israel, could you help me build a teardrop pls.
Thanks for checking out the UA-cam Channel. We help people around the world with kits parts and plans. As well as these videos here. If you need more specific information or help, hit us up at support@overlandtrailer.com
A walking axle design would solve a load of problems.
There are teardrops that have that! Thanks for dropping that idea here. Great tip!
Stainless Steel is NON. REACTIVE. If you cannot use the same material, SS is the correct choice to reduce the galvanic action.
Thanks for watching David. You're right, stainless does reduce galvanic action but it isn't completely non reactive. This is clear when rehabilitating older Airstreams or teardrops. There are ways to avoid it. This is a good set of tips on that topic: bit.ly/3lXkLN3
Choose project as a reason to buy more tools. Yup.
Always. It should just be a line item in the budget of every project. ha ha. Thanks Mike!
I use to tell my wife that no project was worth doing if you didn't need to buy another tool. Maybe that's why I'm divorced 😂
@@jrendt2157 🤣
Sounds like a person could have a good business just making frames for DIYers to use as a base. Or import from China, etc.
👍Many of us companies do help out the DIY in this way!
I’ve been looking for just that!
Much much easier and cheaper to modify a second hand trailer to your needs. building from scratch involves code and procedure headache.
Potentially it is easier and cheaper. It all depends on the second-hand trailer's condition, design, the quality of the parts that are added or subtracted to it. We always encourage builders to think long term too. It may be cheaper now but what about 10 years from now?
As far as code goes, even second-hand trailers (when modified in size) may require another inspection for DOT approval - depending on the state. It is wise to do another inspection for the paper trail - so that insurance companies will honor their end of the deal should something happen to/with the trailer (regardless of state requirements). They're tricky groups.
@@OverlandTrailer Cant say ive ever heard of a person buying a second hand trailer and having to have it approved for the road before it is allowed on the road.. just does not happen in real life.
@@100musicplaylists3 You may be one of the fortunate ones who live in a state that doesn't track changes to trailer frames! It's really all over the place.
In our state of Idaho, if we change the bed size of a trailer (for instance), it needs to be updated on the trailer title. If it isn't updated that can be a citation - however unlikely it may be for that to occur. For less than $10 to change it, it is worth the minor inconvenience. I know this is also true in Washington, Oregon, Utah, and California.
The biggest reason to have it the title updated is actually insurance.
In our 15 years of business we've helped (3rd party valuation or advice) about 80 DIY builders navigate an insurance claim for a trailer that was totaled or stolen. This is where an updated DOT reinspection can be really helpful.
Part of the reasoning is in this video: ua-cam.com/video/yDTmAEcxMDQ/v-deo.html.
Some DIYers live in states/provinces that have a seperate categories of trailers for boat, utility, and homebuilt RV. If the DIYer takes a utility or boat trailer (the most common 2nd hand trailer we see in use), put a teardrop body on it, and it gets ruined or stolen, insurance companies will often fight them on the value of the trailer because it is officially titled as a utility trailer frame and not an RV.
Most of these builders, in our experience, end up with the value of an equivalent utility trailer minus their deductable and loose the value of the trailer body (most of the value of the RV). So, the best reason to update the trailer inspections is not so much about the government but about protecting the asset.
A GREAT option for a second hand trailer frame would be to get an old teardrop or pop up trailer and rework that frame. That way the numbers are already registed as an RV. Pretty much headache free.
Of course, this is why we always tell people to talk with their local DOT and insurance company to get the best information so they can build it right and protect that asset. The minor inconvenience of getting the trailer title updated makes up for the migrane of working with a reluctant insurance company while missing a beloved teardrop that is destroyed or stolen.
My 2 cents!
@@OverlandTrailer No state has the resources to track every second hand trailer sale, not even a fraction of them.
@@100musicplaylists3 IDK man, we're just trying to help people from our knowledge and experience in the industry for 15 years. On this topic, it's about the insurance more than any state. Take it or leave it, it's up to you. ✌️
I have looked all over for things … I remember when I could find old motorcycles, campers, trucks , anything for few bucks. Now all this junk ppl sell is so far gone and they want so much money. It’s insane. You literally have to craft it yourself. Your design is modified by what materials you find and ut will prolly be way heavier that you think. Don’t account for your labor cost either. Sad where this world has come too. We can’t even have a hobby and try to save money
STAINLESS steel bolts, screws is what you want for aluminum, grade 5 or 8 is what reacts to aluminum!
Perfect. Thanks for the clarification.
Basically a stamped metal frame POS.