I hope you kept those old flat printing plates - they have copper or a copper-zinc alloy on wood, and have value on Ebay much more than other heavy ballast.
Well That is quite the project you have there young man... not sure what your background is, but steel boats are a different breed. my father built wood boats and i have had boats most of my life. I would say lead ballast would be your best bet, you could use cement but that could react poorly with the steel. I would convert your steering to hydraulic, or a more modern cable system or a combination of both... Good luck cant wait to what is next...
The conventional steering just needs a bit of grease on the cables and all the pullies need to be oiled or checked regularly once the boat is out on water. I also suggest a nice rudder pin that you can hook on in the back should one of the cables snap. Then you can at least move around to the next dock without the wheel. Looks great and is unbreakable, these last forever. I have a similar one on a 1930's diesel boat.
@@MyFirstBoat We check it once a month and its plenty. Once you are water, when you go in reverse keep the rudder straight as possible in the beginning by holding the wheel and gradually move it (the wind and current can help here), there is a lot of force on it from the water pressure. If you let it go, it will wheel by itself - this can break the cable and your hands trying to catch it - I always scratch my hands every time...;-) I love the work you are doing, keep it up - it will be nice when its finished. Gutes gellingen! btw - we have the same inverter you use and it works well - it only works when the engine is running. Docked, the boat gets land power.
Have do done the research to determine that the boat actually needs all the ballast in the aft bilges. I would at least consider waiting until spring, launch the boat and see how she sits before leaving all the slag in her bottom.
@@mattberg6816 I think you'll find it's more than that...too big, and with a bolt-on top? Maybe it's for clearing things that may get wrapped in the propeller... The top is above the waterline, so you could remove it when afloat..
Are you sure you can simply remove a builkhead like that without consequence? Typically, they are placed there by design to stiffen the structure. Can you still walk on the top of the deck in that area?
Respect for this man hè will give the boat a new life
Dear MFB- couple.
👍👌👏 That's not a bad find. Scrap metal and lead is worth quite a bit of money nowadays.
Best regards luck and health.
Excellent video work, making good progress!
You are making good progress in this video so far. If this were my boat I would want to change the cable steering to hydraulic.
I hope you kept those old flat printing plates - they have copper or a copper-zinc alloy on wood, and have value on Ebay much more than other heavy ballast.
Well That is quite the project you have there young man... not sure what your background is, but steel boats are a different breed. my father built wood boats and i have had boats most of my life. I would say lead ballast would be your best bet, you could use cement but that could react poorly with the steel. I would convert your steering to hydraulic, or a more modern cable system or a combination of both... Good luck cant wait to what is next...
The pressing plates are treasure that your unnamed vessel bequeathed to you! Printed post cards could help fund the re-model.
What a great adventure 👍🏻
The conventional steering just needs a bit of grease on the cables and all the pullies need to be oiled or checked regularly once the boat is out on water. I also suggest a nice rudder pin that you can hook on in the back should one of the cables snap. Then you can at least move around to the next dock without the wheel. Looks great and is unbreakable, these last forever. I have a similar one on a 1930's diesel boat.
Hi Kurt-Micheal Köhl, thanks for the Tipps. I will try oiling everything up and also consider the rudder pin.
@@MyFirstBoat We check it once a month and its plenty. Once you are water, when you go in reverse keep the rudder straight as possible in the beginning by holding the wheel and gradually move it (the wind and current can help here), there is a lot of force on it from the water pressure. If you let it go, it will wheel by itself - this can break the cable and your hands trying to catch it - I always scratch my hands every time...;-) I love the work you are doing, keep it up - it will be nice when its finished. Gutes gellingen! btw - we have the same inverter you use and it works well - it only works when the engine is running. Docked, the boat gets land power.
Consider lead or concrete for ballast in ingots, for the exhaust also consider to do it dry less complex
How about stone? like railroad gravel?
Put all ballast in cement mixer with some shot and sand, rotate wash, then drain, repeat with some red zinc paint, then remove to allow to dry
way to go
Have do done the research to determine that the boat actually needs all the ballast in the aft bilges. I would at least consider waiting until spring, launch the boat and see how she sits before leaving all the slag in her bottom.
Check all those steering shives and pulleys you may want to change the cables,, or if its in your budget convert to hydrolic streering
once its gutted and clean, you can do anything you want in there, your own way.
Nice boat. Do you have a blueprints? May be I will build an rc model )
Looks like great progress, is the metal in the ballast to keep it from capsizing..?🛳👍💚
Yes
Interesting project....what is the grey cylinder in front of the rudder post?
It’s the mounting post for the cable pulleys
@@mattberg6816 I think you'll find it's more than that...too big, and with a bolt-on top? Maybe it's for clearing things that may get wrapped in the propeller... The top is above the waterline, so you could remove it when afloat..
Are you sure you can simply remove a builkhead like that without consequence? Typically, they are placed there by design to stiffen the structure. Can you still walk on the top of the deck in that area?
If you decide that need some help maybe with steel hull works or interior works please let me know.
Strange objects are ballast
Esos pequeños pedazos de metal en el fondo son para darle un poco más de estabilidad al bote??
@Island Mike es usted racista tiene prejuicios contra los latinos? además no contestó ahí una pregunta
Where are you located?
Berlin
Helm Sir not steering wheel.
I hope you got it VERY cheap (