You say that you are an amateur, i think there's a whole lot of people that think they are professional couldn't do what you are doing, you've got pride in your work Dave, keep it going my friend.
That was brilliant Dave , I'm no expert but I've had some minor success, but that seemed logical and methodical, you can tell a lot from the stroke of a hand and the noise it makes when yo rub it with your fingers, but a coat of primer usually proves whether that feel was correct. As you say it takes forever to have anything to show for yor labours, but it has to be done and there are huge costs saved in this preparation stage which will create 95% of the completed finish.
You’re a wise thinker Dave thats why you always make such a great job of things you do you don’t just rush in without a plan in your head ! My dear old father used to say, your doing the job boy think about what your doing and do it right or leave it alone lol ..Cracking job mate 👍
Your getting there dave having done a lot of body work I’m a great fan of 3 or 4 coats of high build primer guide coats and flattin back to get rid of slight ripples or you find your self chasing for ever
I use the small wire cup wheels that fit in electric drill to clean clogged paper - just by hand . I've also heard wiping filler with panel wipe first before sanding also help stop clogging paper
For all those saying don’t bother weighing!The reason of weighing is to get the same hardness of the filler over the whole panel, so when sanding you don’t have hard spots!. 2% is the m/f guide depending of panel temperature you can adjust to suit. Also Dave you really should try and do bigger areas than that in one hit, you should be really doing the top of the wing and the bonnet at the same time.
Nice work Dave, the fun has begun like any type of paint job its only as good as the work in prep nobody sees. I am sure you will make a top job of it. When doing a big area I sometimes like to move on and do an easy bit somewhere else like you have on the scuttle to break up the endless filling and rubbing . Try taping any edges on opposite panels so you can fill neater to the edges and the same on finished edges when your doing adjacent panel ,saves it getting filler on when not needed. Looks like your doing great so far . Try and spray a guide coat of a different colour aerosol on any edges you dont want to cut through on. Regards Rich.
Hi Dave love the channel. For the final skim try a product called dolphin glaze. Use an airline to blow all the dust from the filler to show any pinholes then skim of dolphin glaze and block off with 150 grit.
Great work and very fun to follow along your restoration :-)! To be just an amateur, you set the standard pretty high (for the rest of us amateurs at least) 😅
Always best for bare metal and good key for filler, problem filling over painted surface is feathering the edges, good luck in this weather for filler/paint.
Hi Dave if your doing a large area of filler, spray a black guide cote over it ,that always shows up the low spots straight away when you rub it down,just a thought it always worked for me.
I thought you were using a garden sprinkler at first! Then realised it's an adjustable sanding block with dust hose. Much more fancy than mine. Have you ever hooked it up to a vacuum? Was it any good?
I've mentioned before on final filler coats use polyester spray filler you can thin it with acetone, retropower swear by it, I use a £20 HVLP 2mm gun to apply it with no overspray in the air. as far as I know that guide coat is just laser toner so you could try cyan or magenta. did you get a selection of soap bars with your dura-blocks? I did 😄 as you're a plumber how about trying pipe insulation for you sanding your internal curves.
Nice work Dave. As some are saying, Dolphin Glaze seems to be the fine filler choice of the pros, and I have used it myself, but I find it harder to sand than they make out. I was tempted to try out the Evercoat products just to see how they compared. There's a cheap brand of bodyshop tools called Fast Mover, they do an affordable sanding kit with some shaped blocks that have done me proud for all the awkward curves, I think it is FMT5517, not as good a quality as Durablocks but still usable. I did 3 restoration courses at Bolton College and was taught to use the dry guide coat. you can get the knack of not putting a lot on for the first fillers coats as it isn't cheap, you are only looking for the low spots, but later work uses it to show up sanding scratches you may have missed which no spray paint type coat is any good for. Can your black epoxy be thinned and used as a sealer? The HB Body 989 definitely can, and it's ideal to dust over the bare metal rub-throughs to seal the edges down before the first coat of high build primer. I have ruined one of my paint jobs by using polyester spray filler, I used it over some bare metal areas and some 1K etch primer and it cracked and fell off. It has its' place, but personally I would only risk it over a perfect coat of sanded epoxy.
As always Dave love the work it’s really taking shape now fella nice one 👍🏻 On a side note what’s your thoughts on the new escort mk1 “Ford” boreham works unit ?
Ha yes, I think Ford are being more than optimistic if thet think a MK1 Escort is worth £300k. I'd rather spend £60k on a mint genuine RS2000 and buy a house 🤣
The last body work job I did, on a rear wing, there were 5 lines/shapes/curves, all merging into 1 point, and I spent days trying to get the shape right. I just couldn't figure it out, it was so much more complicated than any other repair I'd done in the past. I just got it as close as I could, and sent it. I could have spent another week, sanding that thing, and still not got the shape right
The hardener is less dense than the base, so you cannot measure the ingredients by weight. It has to be 2% by area. Think of how much cotton you would have to add to the base to add 2% weight. It doesn’t work that way. Your original method is better. A pea size hardener to a golf ball sized bondo.
Doing a great job Dave slow and steady and take your time, it mute make things easier on yourself and your knees is jack up the side your working on. Put some stands underneath then let it down it also makes it easier to see and feel highs and lows. Cheers mate Australia.
You've finally reached the part I hate, filler work. 🤣Did some many years ago and hated every minute of it, though I think I did a pretty decent job of it despite that. Hope it goes well across the whole car.
You say that you are an amateur, i think there's a whole lot of people that think they are professional couldn't do what you are doing, you've got pride in your work Dave, keep it going my friend.
Thank you 😊
Looking Good all the years work comes down to this the finish. Looking forward to next video👍
That was brilliant Dave , I'm no expert but I've had some minor success, but that seemed logical and methodical, you can tell a lot from the stroke of a hand and the noise it makes when yo rub it with your fingers, but a coat of primer usually proves whether that feel was correct. As you say it takes forever to have anything to show for yor labours, but it has to be done and there are huge costs saved in this preparation stage which will create 95% of the completed finish.
You’re a wise thinker Dave thats why you always make such a great job of things you do you don’t just rush in without a plan in your head ! My dear old father used to say, your doing the job boy think about what your doing and do it right or leave it alone lol ..Cracking job mate 👍
Dolphin Glaze is an excellent final filler for scratches and air holes like others have said .
Nicely done Dave your a perfectionist
Great work, I'm about to start a restoration on my 1988 nissan sentra B12. Learnt alot on your videos.
Your getting there dave having done a lot of body work I’m a great fan of 3 or 4 coats of high build primer guide coats and flattin back to get rid of slight ripples or you find your self chasing for ever
I use the small wire cup wheels that fit in electric drill to clean clogged paper - just by hand . I've also heard wiping filler with panel wipe first before sanding also help stop clogging paper
I'm very good at chasing my tail.It's so easy to sand too much off. May try that pencil line next time.😆
Maybe try the continental filler knives for application of filler. They are a bit bigger and more robust than plastic.
For all those saying don’t bother weighing!The reason of weighing is to get the same hardness of the filler over the whole panel, so when sanding you don’t have hard spots!.
2% is the m/f guide depending of panel temperature you can adjust to suit.
Also Dave you really should try and do bigger areas than that in one hit, you should be really doing the top of the wing and the bonnet at the same time.
Thanks for the advice 😊
Nice work Dave, the fun has begun like any type of paint job its only as good as the work in prep nobody sees. I am sure you will make a top job of it. When doing a big area I sometimes like to move on and do an easy bit somewhere else like you have on the scuttle to break up the endless filling and rubbing . Try taping any edges on opposite panels so you can fill neater to the edges and the same on finished edges when your doing adjacent panel ,saves it getting filler on when not needed. Looks like your doing great so far . Try and spray a guide coat of a different colour aerosol on any edges you dont want to cut through on. Regards Rich.
Thanks Rich
Practice makes perfect Dave.
Body filler work is an art form that takes a while to learn let alone master.
Doing a great job Dave
Amazing Dave! Looking forward to the next update. Best Wishes for Christmas and the New Year!👍😎
Hi Dave love the channel. For the final skim try a product called dolphin glaze. Use an airline to blow all the dust from the filler to show any pinholes then skim of dolphin glaze and block off with 150 grit.
Amazing Dave as always get dolphine glaze to finish it off it’s almost self leveling filler very easy to work with top work as always
Great progress. Looking good. 👍
Mate never use solid pipe for sanding contours,roll up a jugs magazine and use that,it can conform to many different curves!
Good tip, maybe I'll use a Rally Design catalogue 😉
Nice shocking filler video for Christmas 👍Have a good one
Top work
Another great video from you. She will look great when the paint goes on and finished.
I hope so!
Great work and very fun to follow along your restoration :-)! To be just an amateur, you set the standard pretty high (for the rest of us amateurs at least) 😅
Thank you very much!
This is the hardest longest job in the world 😂 slow and steady it’s worth the effort
Always best for bare metal and good key for filler, problem filling over painted surface is feathering the edges, good luck in this weather for filler/paint.
Yep, the weather isn't helping much
yes we were all right only 42 deg C to day here in Australia
The rule of thumb for filler is a golf ball size of filler to a pea of hardener
Hi Dave if your doing a large area of filler, spray a black guide cote over it ,that always shows up the low spots straight away when you rub it down,just a thought it always worked for me.
Thanks Alan, I may call on your expertise yet 😉
Try some fine filler/glaze (dolphin or similar) and skim the whole panel you'll be able to block it straight
I thought you were using a garden sprinkler at first! Then realised it's an adjustable sanding block with dust hose. Much more fancy than mine. Have you ever hooked it up to a vacuum? Was it any good?
Ha ha 😂, I did try the vacuum on it, didn't really help much, just made noise 😄
I've mentioned before on final filler coats use polyester spray filler you can thin it with acetone, retropower swear by it, I use a £20 HVLP 2mm gun to apply it with no overspray in the air. as far as I know that guide coat is just laser toner so you could try cyan or magenta.
did you get a selection of soap bars with your dura-blocks? I did 😄 as you're a plumber how about trying pipe insulation for you sanding your internal curves.
I did get some soap, not quite sure what that was about 🤣🤣🤣, pipe insulation is a brilliant idea 👏
Dave - you clog abrasive paper because you are too keen - use a wire brush to clear out the paper and carry on - you get much more distance from it
Good tip, ta
@ I know this because I am keen and also tight! It’s like using a file card and you save a lot on paper!
Always interesting videos..👍👍.UA-cam channel.."The Humble Paint Sprayer" is very good for knowledge.
Use dolphin glaze as final filler
Nice work Dave. As some are saying, Dolphin Glaze seems to be the fine filler choice of the pros, and I have used it myself, but I find it harder to sand than they make out. I was tempted to try out the Evercoat products just to see how they compared. There's a cheap brand of bodyshop tools called Fast Mover, they do an affordable sanding kit with some shaped blocks that have done me proud for all the awkward curves, I think it is FMT5517, not as good a quality as Durablocks but still usable. I did 3 restoration courses at Bolton College and was taught to use the dry guide coat. you can get the knack of not putting a lot on for the first fillers coats as it isn't cheap, you are only looking for the low spots, but later work uses it to show up sanding scratches you may have missed which no spray paint type coat is any good for. Can your black epoxy be thinned and used as a sealer? The HB Body 989 definitely can, and it's ideal to dust over the bare metal rub-throughs to seal the edges down before the first coat of high build primer. I have ruined one of my paint jobs by using polyester spray filler, I used it over some bare metal areas and some 1K etch primer and it cracked and fell off. It has its' place, but personally I would only risk it over a perfect coat of sanded epoxy.
Thanks for the heads up on that, that's exactly the help I need, thank you 😊
As always Dave love the work it’s really taking shape now fella nice one 👍🏻
On a side note what’s your thoughts on the new escort mk1 “Ford” boreham works unit ?
Ha yes, I think Ford are being more than optimistic if thet think a MK1 Escort is worth £300k. I'd rather spend £60k on a mint genuine RS2000 and buy a house 🤣
The last body work job I did, on a rear wing, there were 5 lines/shapes/curves, all merging into 1 point, and I spent days trying to get the shape right.
I just couldn't figure it out, it was so much more complicated than any other repair I'd done in the past.
I just got it as close as I could, and sent it. I could have spent another week, sanding that thing, and still not got the shape right
You're making a mountain out of a mole hill with the mixing of that filler , it'll go off with half of what you put on.
Best rule is golf ball filler to pea of hardener
The hardener is less dense than the base, so you cannot measure the ingredients by weight. It has to be 2% by area. Think of how much cotton you would have to add to the base to add 2% weight. It doesn’t work that way. Your original method is better. A pea size hardener to a golf ball sized bondo.
Fillering? 😂
I definitely think your taking the filler thing to far Dave , in my life I’ve never weighed it on scales , always a blob and a small line of hardener.
I agree, but you gotta try 😊
Doing a great job Dave slow and steady and take your time, it mute make things easier on yourself and your knees is jack up the side your working on. Put some stands underneath then let it down it also makes it easier to see and feel highs and lows. Cheers mate Australia.
But rasp is flat and i didn't think the to of the wing was..
It's just to get the high filler lumps off forst
Got same scales, don't reg very well for small amounts...just guess
You've finally reached the part I hate, filler work. 🤣Did some many years ago and hated every minute of it, though I think I did a pretty decent job of it despite that. Hope it goes well across the whole car.
Yep, it is pretty much an ongoing hate battle 🤣🤣
Great job Dave.