How could I give my audience a present to show my appreciation? How about a bonus video this week? Here's the next Large Marge installment, and I will be publishing another LONG video on Friday. Cheers everybody!
That spring is important. It's like a shock absorber for your chain. Throwing it in there without any preload on it will make the idler really bouncy and you'll be more likely to throw a track off. They are usually tensioned up to about 50-100+ ton depending on machine size. I can tell you from experience having to cut these fuckers up when they are broken and jammed up inside an undercarriage, that is a lot of energy. You don't want to attempt anything like that unless you're a professional, and even then it's sketchy at best. We have a large press surrounded by a cage for assembling these but thankfully these days it's become more economical to just order a new assembly. From someone who used to do quite a bit of undercarriage work, have that thing rebuild or find a similar unit that is in better shape if you're going to be doing a lot of tracking. For small jobs around the farm it might be okay. Either way, love the series and I look forward to what you come up with!
What do you think about the DIY approach of machining a replacement center bolt that is 4" too long, loading the screw by torquing down the cap, then cut off the excess? I suppose you're in the "blast radius" while cranking on that bolt ...
@@RossReedstrom. If the thread depth was sufficient it should work but you would need a thrust bearing between the nut and the plate otherwise it would require too much force to torque it
@@W8iHav2P You only want the spring acting over a certain force value, this value is set by the pretensioning under that it would also act as a spring an not as a stiff body.
There pretensioning also creates space, for assembly with new tracks, with the spring fully extended you need four inches of track adjuster only to pretension the spring to the correct value. Also the track pretensio will be off with be off with the same amount of slack. My idea would be to get a high strength threaded rod, thread it into the front plate and weld it to it. Then machine a long nut, as long as the depth of the back spring holder, where the head of the big bolt sat. Then you could tension the spring without ever having to tension it externally and in addition to that you have many threads holding it.
It's awesome that UA-cam exists and allows a project like this to be feasible. No one in their right mind would spend this much time and effort on an old machine you can't get parts for. But UA-cam provides! Thanks again John. More great fixes.
5 Months ago, in the 'Servicing The New-To-Me Excavator, Case 170B' video I commented *"I'm beginning to doubt that 7200 hour claim. It's a machine that obviously been well used and neglected but looking at the general wear and tear, I'd put the hours above 10k - maybe even has high as 15k."* Now, looking at the removal of a fuse that disabled a perfectly working Oil Sensor and 'coincidentally' disabled the Hour Meter in your Electrical Repair Video, the failures in major track components plus the actual amount of dirt and debris I'm upping my estimate to 20k+ hours. With the above said - I repeat that your dedication to bringing new life to this worn old lady is awe inspiring!!
When I worked in Granddad’s diesel shop we had a whole wing of the shop set up to store house-built tools, from press plates with circles of various sizes cut in 1” steel for pressing bushings and seals (hoark hoark hoark) out of suspension systems (specifically for Rockwell suspension rocker arm bushings), custom wheel bearing sockets (weren’t we just talking about those? No… that was Diesel Creek’s latest video…), all the way to a home-built 5th wheel-mounted truck hauler so we could use one semi to haul another piggyback style. Your pin press idea is right in line with that stuff and would have made a welcome addition to our arsenal. Instead I was the poor SOB tasked with operating the sledge hammer. I was 16, not an ounce of extra fat, 6’3” and could pick up and carry 300#+ leaf spring stacks from semi trucks… so I was definitely the guy for the job. But to this day my hands still hurt just thinking about it.
The easiest way to push track pins out is to let someone else do it. I ran the Track bay for Coast Tractor who was a J/D dealership in BC Canada .That place was setup nice but you still worked hard lifting track pads. Turning pins was the worst. you get over a 300 size machine yup OK heavy .
That enormous coil spring doesn't look like it even has 4.5" of free space between the coils to give up before coil binding would occur under pre-load! Great video John, I really enjoy your channel. Thank you.
This brings back memories- mostly unpleasant- of battles with stubborn track pins in the past. I blessed the day my boss bought a 100-ton track press. Even then, more than a few times heat was necessary. Better you than me.
Excavator owner/ operator here. I just replaced both idler wheels on my 15 ton excavator. I did not press out the pin to remove the track. You can partially remove the track and put it back on without removing the pins. Remove all tension from the track. Use a backhoe/dozer/mini excavator to pull the loosened track off the idler wheel. Make your repair. Carefully put the track back on with any combination of machines and chains that you have available. There are many videos on youtube for this. I have done this job both ways and popping the track off is WAY easier and faster.
I don't doubt you, but I really think with the spring preload rod broken on this machine, it's pretty hard to get the tracks loose enough to do that. The spring is 4.5 inches longer than it should be, so even with the track adjusters totally collapsed, the tracks measured 21.5 inches, only 3 inches above spec for a properly tensioned track. I'll definitely keep this in mind for future work though. I find getting tracks back on like that pretty tough when working alone too. Have any tricks for that? Let me guess...phone a friend? ;-)
@AndrewCamarata seems to love throwing and replacing tracks😂 I'm no operator, but it looks like he always has a trick or two when working on his machines.
The bolt that holds the spring threads into the plate. After compressing the spring, you cut off the extra thread before reassembly. You just need a new bolt with the extra thread section! I hope you read this prior to the reassembly.
Remember that log spliter that you made for your mini excavator? To bad you couldn't rig that up to push out the pin, maybe not enough force... Thanks for posting, great video as always!
I know it is a lot, but I subscribe to over 150 channels, but you are by far my favorite.!!! No BS, just work !! I'm 80 years and was a truck and heavy equip. mechanic, all my life. I wish I could come and help you, because sometimes, I talk to the TV and say John, I know a better and easier way. to do that, but you do a great , great job!! and you are a machinist and I'm not.
An important tip on honing if i may. "The more oil, the better!" For some reason most people have this thinking that the oil is for lubrication. It isn't. Its main purpose is to wash the swarf away and keep the stones clean. Secondary purpose is heat control. With a real hone (not spring loaded, rather preload set) yes, there is a lube factor for the brushes. But when using a spring loaded hone, or more accurately, deglazing hone, keep it flooded. Personally, I would have filled those cylinders with diesel before honing. Yes, it will be messy. But, your stones will last much longer, and cut WAY faster.
I learned a TON about spring loaded track tensioners working on our Vermeer s600tx mini skid. It was a bear to work on those tracks and it’s a 2,000 lbs machine! 😂
The way you check the tension on these vehicles is hand tighten the tracks and pluck it. If it sounds like a violin, it is a bit too tight.......Wait, that's my 3d printer. hahahahaha Love the videos.
My guess is that this spring assembly is more for "suspension" than track tension : if you were to drive over rough terrain (with large rocks for example) the track would not be flat as it is in your videos, but probably kinked in some places, effectively making the needed length longer. Because the track can't lengthen, this spring gets compressed, absorbing the variation in needed lenght
I remember when I was in the Army, watching one of our M113 Ambulances getting a track replaced. They had what looked like a Porta Power on steroids to push out a track pin the was recalcitrant. I learned a few new swear words that day.
Merry Christmas to all of you - yes, seals included! Thanks for the 2024 shares of wit and wisdom... we're looking forward to the 20235 FUN!! Say safe, free and happy11 Blessings upon you, Large Marge and family!!😁💥🔥🤣
After the last few jobs in Marge were WAY to easy - no bolts broken, no pins stuck - I was very happy to see you struggling, slamming away with the big hammer and using heating/cooling cycles. That is the kind of content we viewers expect and deserve! My favorite bit is right at the start, the first try with the 'slam bar'. I remember thinking 'would it not be smart to weld a bigger plate at the end to make it easier to hit'? And the first big hit was beautiful, putting in a lot of force and missing the end of the bar completely! And then the classic comment: 'did you move it?'😂
For the spring / rod assembly, think I agree with you. It is longer now and means maybe you have less room to get a track on, but the spring is there for absorbing impacts. So as long as you don't take Marge of any jumps, you probably won't throw a track....
Fantastic video! It amazing: I never cease to learn watching you work! And, you are blessed to have good folks ready to step in and help! My neighbors beat me to the barn when it's time to put hay in for the horses. LOVE it! Thanks Jon and Friends! Lee
By far this was the most suspense filled FarmCraft101 video to date. I almost ran out to the garage to grab my own face shield just to watch the homemade hydraulic press segment.
The spring stiffness is constant with compression. The force needed to compress the spring increases proportionally with the distance it is compressed. So long as the grease piston has the travel to compress the spring and the spring is captured in a fairly tight housing, it probably will work. Without the rod and the two end plates, the ends will not be constrained to remain parallel to one another. That may make the spring more likely to buckle inside its housing. To get an idea whether buckling had been happening after the rod broke, look on the outside of the spring coils and see if there is any significant metal-on-metal rubbing wear.
I would guess a new track would be tight enough that you wouldn't be able to get it all together. The spring would be so long that you would have to compress it to install the master pin. In a worn state the track may be long enough, but then the adjuster will probably need to be all the way out to get the same preload.
Maybe a silly question: if the track has become longer, could he remove a link? I have seen half links used on longer tracks. I think the original plate will be too large though.
John, you really should have towed Marge to a nearby truck stop and just invited people to come in and hit it. I would love to take a few swings at this!
I've got a 25 year old 6ton dumper that's not be started for 6 months or more it fired up last week, instantly without even a boost, my Transit Custom won't start if you leave it for a week or open and close the doors too many times at work!
For cylinder hone stop, back in the day we positioned the cylinder vertically and dropped appropriately sized plexiglass circle into the cylinder to stop the honing stones short of the end of the cylinder.
Interesting how different people solve the same problem in different ways. I'd have cut a plywood disk and put it in the bottom of that cylinder to keep the honing stones from hitting the end, but your 2x4s & pipe clamps worked great. Thanks for all the great videos!
I would say no pretension on the spring but I'd maybe either just stick a long threaded rod down and hold the ends on maybe just weld the end caps on the spring. I'd also suggest watching Master Milo from the Netherlands and his ordeal in separating rusted pins in the track of the Russian tank that he was restoring.. If I recall, it was a massive hydraulic ram in kind of a large makeshift frame of scrap steel bars, and substantial amount of torch heating in order to get each pin out (he broke the whole track down into individual segments for cleaning and restoration)
I literally spent the last week watching all the videos on Large Marge again, today I watched the most recent one. This comes at a perfect time, except that it's my bedtime but oh well.
Absolutely fantastic video, this is some really rarely seen stuff - great call on the spring - really interested to see how this works when all together - amazing stuff!
Obvious you have to have heavy equipment to work on heavy equipment. I have never worked on anything this big. Boy, does that make me happy. Bonus Friday. Looking forward to it. What a neat surprise on Wednesday. Be well. No more burnies.
A Air Hammer comes to mind or a Hydraulic press( you know a Jack) sandwiched between a Solid piece of stock (steel) and the Mini Excavator! Okay you got to it! Great Job!! I await the follow-up on this one!
29:03 thats how my back looked 2 months ago. I have a wood furnace in my cellar and the exhaust pipe goes in front of the water pipes and two of the pumps. Wanted to look at the pump and forgot that the 200°C exhaust was behind me and touched it with my bare skin. That was niiiice.
John I don't know too many people that would take on a project like that. I have worked in the field on drag lines and all kinds of stuff when I was a young man and I would gladly help you do a job like this just to say I did it. You my friend are one amazing family man. Now I'm going to wish you and your family a very merry Christmas and a far better new year to come.
Following this beautiful series on Large Marge, I can explain why the previous owner removed the High Speed Relay (just a little part). When using he high speed, the two this hydraulic lines who put the motors in the high speed-mode, would have spit the hydraulic oil everywhere. Before the fix of these lines, these two lines only leaked a bit from the static pressure on it. Anyway John, keep up the good work.
Instant upvote, I've learned more from this channel about life in general than I have any other channel. I'll probably never have big equipment, but it's all applicable.
Just some friendly advice, remove the 3 track plates off around the pin and put that pipe around the pin & to the other track frame reduce the length of your pin removal tool and weld some around the end of your tool to make it a lot bigger target which gives more confidence in your swing whilst also making your aim 10x better. Then heat and cool heat and use a candle or wot ever wax you have then try to remove the pin.
The tankers especially the ordinance & maintenance soldiers in WW2 often had to fix tracks & retrieve the tanks they were fit to under fire. Makes this seem to be a casual endeavor.
At 2:30 in the video " are these things always out of grease?" When you put a new cartridge in, if you leave the plunger all the way out, it goes down slowly as the grease comes out, so you'll always know how much grease you have left in your cartridge!
I decided earlier to take a mid afternoon nap here on my day off. Woke up to find a new video here, and immediately had a half-asleep Rip Van Wrinkle moment, thinking I'd slept for days. 😂😂 Thanks for the pleasant (albeit momentarily panic-inducing) surprise vid, Jon! 😊
Great video. Watching this at 23:30 was like watching a thriller film where the bad guy is just around the corner from the victim who's trying to hide.
I'd check with Cliff at C&C about the spring compression. I believe that he will tell u the truth. Like 1 guy said if it's to loose and u throw the track in the middle of a piss-poor place, it might pay to fix it correctly.
I agree with your assessment of the spring and the pretension. I don't see how it can make a diffence once the track is tensioned. Basically just makes the grease pump work harder when tensioning the track from fully loose up to the point where the spring would normally be pretensioned (if im thinking correctly)
FC101, Tough job getting that pin-out. time will tell if u need that long bar. seem like a shock absorber on a truck needs a bar to help keep it inline!
I think that preloading the spring might make for an interesting segment. You would have to make/buy a shaft bole with nut long and strong enough and maybe cut the excess off once you get it loaded. Cutting out the off bolt head would be interesting as well since just welding a shaft on would probably not work due to the preload tension. So careful ark gouging/plasma cutting would probably be in order. The hole might then have to be built up and lined bored since just a heavy washer would not work. Great job on the "pin press." ou might want to get a patent on that!
![Building The FIRST Modular Dana 80 E-Axle for a 4x4 #RamRecharger [EP8]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4Q7nv1nQorI/mqdefault.jpg)
How could I give my audience a present to show my appreciation? How about a bonus video this week? Here's the next Large Marge installment, and I will be publishing another LONG video on Friday. Cheers everybody!
Merry Christmas indeed!
Yippee!!! Nothing like watching stuff get fixed!
Love it, thanks Jon!
Thanks John, Merry Christmas
Woo-hoo!!
That spring is important. It's like a shock absorber for your chain. Throwing it in there without any preload on it will make the idler really bouncy and you'll be more likely to throw a track off. They are usually tensioned up to about 50-100+ ton depending on machine size. I can tell you from experience having to cut these fuckers up when they are broken and jammed up inside an undercarriage, that is a lot of energy. You don't want to attempt anything like that unless you're a professional, and even then it's sketchy at best. We have a large press surrounded by a cage for assembling these but thankfully these days it's become more economical to just order a new assembly.
From someone who used to do quite a bit of undercarriage work, have that thing rebuild or find a similar unit that is in better shape if you're going to be doing a lot of tracking. For small jobs around the farm it might be okay. Either way, love the series and I look forward to what you come up with!
What do you think about the DIY approach of machining a replacement center bolt that is 4" too long, loading the screw by torquing down the cap, then cut off the excess? I suppose you're in the "blast radius" while cranking on that bolt ...
@@RossReedstrom. If the thread depth was sufficient it should work but you would need a thrust bearing between the nut and the plate otherwise it would require too much force to torque it
Once it's assembled and the track it tensioned it will have preload on it anyway. What am I missing?
@@W8iHav2P You only want the spring acting over a certain force value, this value is set by the pretensioning under that it would also act as a spring an not as a stiff body.
There pretensioning also creates space, for assembly with new tracks, with the spring fully extended you need four inches of track adjuster only to pretension the spring to the correct value. Also the track pretensio will be off with be off with the same amount of slack.
My idea would be to get a high strength threaded rod, thread it into the front plate and weld it to it. Then machine a long nut, as long as the depth of the back spring holder, where the head of the big bolt sat. Then you could tension the spring without ever having to tension it externally and in addition to that you have many threads holding it.
It's awesome that UA-cam exists and allows a project like this to be feasible. No one in their right mind would spend this much time and effort on an old machine you can't get parts for. But UA-cam provides! Thanks again John. More great fixes.
5 Months ago, in the 'Servicing The New-To-Me Excavator, Case 170B' video I commented *"I'm beginning to doubt that 7200 hour claim. It's a machine that obviously been well used and neglected but looking at the general wear and tear, I'd put the hours above 10k - maybe even has high as 15k."*
Now, looking at the removal of a fuse that disabled a perfectly working Oil Sensor and 'coincidentally' disabled the Hour Meter in your Electrical Repair Video, the failures in major track components plus the actual amount of dirt and debris I'm upping my estimate to 20k+ hours.
With the above said - I repeat that your dedication to bringing new life to this worn old lady is awe inspiring!!
It is so cute when the small machine helps the mother machine.
Yes, but I had thoughts of Large Marge being the helping one ... 🤔😲😵🤣
@swamp T :
Did you know it had
Triplets ( he has a
Identical brother and sister
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
When I worked in Granddad’s diesel shop we had a whole wing of the shop set up to store house-built tools, from press plates with circles of various sizes cut in 1” steel for pressing bushings and seals (hoark hoark hoark) out of suspension systems (specifically for Rockwell suspension rocker arm bushings), custom wheel bearing sockets (weren’t we just talking about those? No… that was Diesel Creek’s latest video…), all the way to a home-built 5th wheel-mounted truck hauler so we could use one semi to haul another piggyback style.
Your pin press idea is right in line with that stuff and would have made a welcome addition to our arsenal. Instead I was the poor SOB tasked with operating the sledge hammer.
I was 16, not an ounce of extra fat, 6’3” and could pick up and carry 300#+ leaf spring stacks from semi trucks… so I was definitely the guy for the job. But to this day my hands still hurt just thinking about it.
The easiest way to push track pins out is to let someone else do it.
I ran the Track bay for Coast Tractor who was a J/D dealership in BC
Canada .That place was setup nice but you still worked hard lifting track
pads. Turning pins was the worst. you get over a 300 size machine yup OK heavy .
@@Bobbycat115 yep… and when I was 16 and Grandpa was pushing 70, I became that guy. LOL
That enormous coil spring doesn't look like it even has 4.5" of free space between the coils to give up before coil binding would occur under pre-load! Great video John, I really enjoy your channel. Thank you.
This brings back memories- mostly unpleasant- of battles with stubborn track pins in the past. I blessed the day my boss bought a 100-ton track press. Even then, more than a few times heat was necessary. Better you than me.
Excavator owner/ operator here. I just replaced both idler wheels on my 15 ton excavator. I did not press out the pin to remove the track. You can partially remove the track and put it back on without removing the pins. Remove all tension from the track. Use a backhoe/dozer/mini excavator to pull the loosened track off the idler wheel. Make your repair. Carefully put the track back on with any combination of machines and chains that you have available. There are many videos on youtube for this. I have done this job both ways and popping the track off is WAY easier and faster.
I don't doubt you, but I really think with the spring preload rod broken on this machine, it's pretty hard to get the tracks loose enough to do that. The spring is 4.5 inches longer than it should be, so even with the track adjusters totally collapsed, the tracks measured 21.5 inches, only 3 inches above spec for a properly tensioned track. I'll definitely keep this in mind for future work though. I find getting tracks back on like that pretty tough when working alone too. Have any tricks for that? Let me guess...phone a friend? ;-)
@@FarmCraft101 Don't phone a friend when you have a brother in law around.
@AndrewCamarata seems to love throwing and replacing tracks😂 I'm no operator, but it looks like he always has a trick or two when working on his machines.
Got to love the last second
... wait, this is going to be loud 😄
Good on him for protecting his hearing. You only get the two ears.
The bolt that holds the spring threads into the plate.
After compressing the spring, you cut off the extra thread before reassembly.
You just need a new bolt with the extra thread section!
I hope you read this prior to the reassembly.
Or just some big all-thread.
Should work fine.
@Ammoniummetavanadate
Allthread is usually not hardened, I think it might be a grade 5 bolt.
@JustMe-te8cz You can get grade 8 all thread from the right suppliers.
Remember that log spliter that you made for your mini excavator? To bad you couldn't rig that up to push out the pin, maybe not enough force... Thanks for posting, great video as always!
But perhaps the pin press could get a quick change holding bar assembly like the log splitter to hold and position it with the small excavator. 💪
or use the extra hydraulic piston from the original splitter.
I wonder how many tons of force swinging a 20 sledge applies? It might be close to the 20T of the log splitter but I could be wrong.
I know it is a lot, but I subscribe to over 150 channels, but you are by far my favorite.!!! No BS, just work !! I'm 80 years and was a truck and heavy equip. mechanic, all my life. I wish I could come and help you, because sometimes, I talk to the TV and say John, I know a better and easier way. to do that, but you do a great , great job!! and you are a machinist and I'm not.
I completely agree, I sub to nearly 400 and used UA-cam to keep my sanity when I became disabled
What the.... mid week video!?!?!
Christmas Miracle
Do not complain. I repeat: Do. Not. Complain.
😁
HUMP! DAYYYYYHHHYYYYHYYYY!!!
4:13 this picture with the cap and cigarettes is hilarious
Those seals are just misunderstood. We all have our demons and leak grease out of our tension mechanisms from time to time
Don’t take the easy way out! I want to see you fix that spring! 😊
An important tip on honing if i may. "The more oil, the better!" For some reason most people have this thinking that the oil is for lubrication. It isn't. Its main purpose is to wash the swarf away and keep the stones clean. Secondary purpose is heat control. With a real hone (not spring loaded, rather preload set) yes, there is a lube factor for the brushes. But when using a spring loaded hone, or more accurately, deglazing hone, keep it flooded. Personally, I would have filled those cylinders with diesel before honing. Yes, it will be messy. But, your stones will last much longer, and cut WAY faster.
I learned a TON about spring loaded track tensioners working on our Vermeer s600tx mini skid. It was a bear to work on those tracks and it’s a 2,000 lbs machine! 😂
Merry Christmas John. My wife and I really enjoy your video. Great content.
Unfortunatley i have had the pleasure to work on these here in France, spring will be fine for what you plan to use this machine for.
A Wednesday release of Farmcraft101 ?!?!??? ... Is this a taste of heaven? ....we love you John 😍😍😍
Both Pin and Pinniped issues in the same video.. very special
Amazing what 3 grown men do for fun!
The way you check the tension on these vehicles is hand tighten the tracks and pluck it. If it sounds like a violin, it is a bit too tight.......Wait, that's my 3d printer. hahahahaha Love the videos.
Farmcraft101 is a smart man with Impressive skill. Respect
My guess is that this spring assembly is more for "suspension" than track tension : if you were to drive over rough terrain (with large rocks for example) the track would not be flat as it is in your videos, but probably kinked in some places, effectively making the needed length longer. Because the track can't lengthen, this spring gets compressed, absorbing the variation in needed lenght
I remember when I was in the Army, watching one of our M113 Ambulances getting a track replaced. They had what looked like a Porta Power on steroids to push out a track pin the was recalcitrant. I learned a few new swear words that day.
Excellent presentation. Thank you. That said, I suspect the spring assembly needs to be repaired.
A zip strip on the honing shaft for depth would've worked a treat 👌
The first I saw you fixing was your Johnson, the little boat motor...
Well, the items and the problems have been growing since... 🙂
Merry Christmas to all of you - yes, seals included! Thanks for the 2024 shares of wit and wisdom... we're looking forward to the 20235 FUN!! Say safe, free and happy11 Blessings upon you, Large Marge and family!!😁💥🔥🤣
you are one amazing person...from working knowledge to editing your videos...much thanks...merry christmas...
You guys are having such a great time. Working on some dumb problem with friends is the best
That make-shift press was really nice! Can't wait for the next installment.
After the last few jobs in Marge were WAY to easy - no bolts broken, no pins stuck - I was very happy to see you struggling, slamming away with the big hammer and using heating/cooling cycles.
That is the kind of content we viewers expect and deserve!
My favorite bit is right at the start, the first try with the 'slam bar'. I remember thinking 'would it not be smart to weld a bigger plate at the end to make it easier to hit'?
And the first big hit was beautiful, putting in a lot of force and missing the end of the bar completely!
And then the classic comment: 'did you move it?'😂
SURPRISE UPLOAD! Time to take a 44-minute break from work!
For the spring / rod assembly, think I agree with you. It is longer now and means maybe you have less room to get a track on, but the spring is there for absorbing impacts. So as long as you don't take Marge of any jumps, you probably won't throw a track....
Fantastic video! It amazing: I never cease to learn watching you work! And, you are blessed to have good folks ready to step in and help! My neighbors beat me to the barn when it's time to put hay in for the horses. LOVE it! Thanks Jon and Friends! Lee
By far this was the most suspense filled FarmCraft101 video to date. I almost ran out to the garage to grab my own face shield just to watch the homemade hydraulic press segment.
The spring stiffness is constant with compression. The force needed to compress the spring increases proportionally with the distance it is compressed. So long as the grease piston has the travel to compress the spring and the spring is captured in a fairly tight housing, it probably will work. Without the rod and the two end plates, the ends will not be constrained to remain parallel to one another. That may make the spring more likely to buckle inside its housing. To get an idea whether buckling had been happening after the rod broke, look on the outside of the spring coils and see if there is any significant metal-on-metal rubbing wear.
I would guess a new track would be tight enough that you wouldn't be able to get it all together. The spring would be so long that you would have to compress it to install the master pin. In a worn state the track may be long enough, but then the adjuster will probably need to be all the way out to get the same preload.
Maybe a silly question: if the track has become longer, could he remove a link? I have seen half links used on longer tracks. I think the original plate will be too large though.
Please please please never stop with the seal running gags.... They were extra funny this time!
she is a content creator for sure ... you could make a good living fixing that thing ..lol great vid!!!
John, you really should have towed Marge to a nearby truck stop and just invited people to come in and hit it. I would love to take a few swings at this!
Wow 😳 what an undertaking, you did very 🎉 good. Well done.
Wonderful John. You keep on giving the good stuff.
Thank you 👋🏻🌿
I'm so looking forward to seeing what the final pin press looks like!
35:20 Yeah, we see you bragging about your cold start. grin.
Good job on your tuning and maintenance.
Thanks for your videos.
I've got a 25 year old 6ton dumper that's not be started for 6 months or more it fired up last week, instantly without even a boost, my Transit Custom won't start if you leave it for a week or open and close the doors too many times at work!
Ah, that good old game of how many tools do I have to drag out, or make, to do one simple job!
I seriously thought I got my days mixed up !! What a great surprise an extra video. Merry Xmas John to you and your family from Ireland 🇮🇪
For cylinder hone stop, back in the day we positioned the cylinder vertically and dropped appropriately sized plexiglass circle into the cylinder to stop the honing stones short of the end of the cylinder.
Interesting how different people solve the same problem in different ways. I'd have cut a plywood disk and put it in the bottom of that cylinder to keep the honing stones from hitting the end, but your 2x4s & pipe clamps worked great. Thanks for all the great videos!
Awsome work, once again. How about the other side? Greetings from Finland,
I am glad you have a sense of humor. Every thing about La Marge is big & heavy.
I would say no pretension on the spring but I'd maybe either just stick a long threaded rod down and hold the ends on maybe just weld the end caps on the spring.
I'd also suggest watching Master Milo from the Netherlands and his ordeal in separating rusted pins in the track of the Russian tank that he was restoring.. If I recall, it was a massive hydraulic ram in kind of a large makeshift frame of scrap steel bars, and substantial amount of torch heating in order to get each pin out (he broke the whole track down into individual segments for cleaning and restoration)
Excellent Video! I haven't seen a boring or redundant one yet!
Gotta get Clint’s press at C+C equipment! Look at what he’s got - maybe someone has one around you!
The rod and the pre-tensioning are probably to keep the spring straight and to hold it in place
In future let the grease out push the idler back in with your smaller excavator and pull the track off , slide out the idler. 10 minutes of a job 👍🏻
Brilliant idea, the hose to the pin extractor. 14:37 been there, done that. Lost my fingerprints... 🤣
I’ll second that
I literally spent the last week watching all the videos on Large Marge again, today I watched the most recent one. This comes at a perfect time, except that it's my bedtime but oh well.
Whhhhhhhhhat a surprise video on a Wednesday evening. What could be better
Absolutely fantastic video, this is some really rarely seen stuff - great call on the spring - really interested to see how this works when all together - amazing stuff!
Old school mechanics sometimes use paraffin wax along with a torch to loosen stubborn bolts and pins.
Wow. It looked you hammered that pin for three days.
I keep chuckling at the seal photos even after the 100th time.
I caught you, friends. You like the video before you finish watching it. (That's what I do too) 😊
I think spring will save you about 4,5 inches of grease in tube 😂
Obvious you have to have heavy equipment to work on heavy equipment. I have never worked on anything this big. Boy, does that make me happy. Bonus Friday. Looking forward to it. What a neat surprise on Wednesday. Be well. No more burnies.
It's actually big fun to work on machines like this. Good way to work off some frustration when hammering out stuff :D
A Air Hammer comes to mind or a Hydraulic press( you know a Jack) sandwiched between a Solid piece of stock (steel) and the Mini Excavator! Okay you got to it! Great Job!! I await the follow-up on this one!
Christmas came early! cracking open a beer, I'm on vacation from _NOW_
Fun to see you working with family. Wish I could do the same. Bless Large Marge.
29:03 thats how my back looked 2 months ago. I have a wood furnace in my cellar and the exhaust pipe goes in front of the water pipes and two of the pumps. Wanted to look at the pump and forgot that the 200°C exhaust was behind me and touched it with my bare skin. That was niiiice.
Friday came early! Maybe because of my birthday 😂
Thanks for the video
Happy birthday, and happy holiday season.
John I don't know too many people that would take on a project like that. I have worked in the field on drag lines and all kinds of stuff when I was a young man and I would gladly help you do a job like this just to say I did it. You my friend are one amazing family man. Now I'm going to wish you and your family a very merry Christmas and a far better new year to come.
I wouldn't have bothered trying to fix the spring assembly, just put it back together as it was, Keep up the good work
Highlight of my week was seeing a FarmCraft101 video on a wednesday. Had to check it several times before I believed.. Thank you John.
Following this beautiful series on Large Marge, I can explain why the previous owner removed the High Speed Relay (just a little part). When using he high speed, the two this hydraulic lines who put the motors in the high speed-mode, would have spit the hydraulic oil everywhere.
Before the fix of these lines, these two lines only leaked a bit from the static pressure on it.
Anyway John, keep up the good work.
4.5 inches!!! thats huge! Gigantic Enormous!!
That pin had me sweating! Well done.
Jon looking down inside where that spring was “hello hello hello hello “
A bit of cave exploration. 😁
very good editing makes it easy and enjoyable to watch in its entirety, thanks Jon
Im a big fan of the large marge videos. I'd love to know how many times shes been paid for with these videos. What an amazing investment
Instant upvote, I've learned more from this channel about life in general than I have any other channel. I'll probably never have big equipment, but it's all applicable.
You should invest in one of those grease bucket pumps
I like questionable ideas that WORK!
Thank you for your efforts in producing these videos! I enjoy them!
✨AI summary: three fellas taking turns on the Large Marge
I'd leave the "the" out. ...taking turns on large...
But then I'm a sicko. Too much watching Jon
working on his broken Johnson!
steve
Just some friendly advice, remove the 3 track plates off around the pin and put that pipe around the pin & to the other track frame reduce the length of your pin removal tool and weld some around the end of your tool to make it a lot bigger target which gives more confidence in your swing whilst also making your aim 10x better. Then heat and cool heat and use a candle or wot ever wax you have then try to remove the pin.
The tankers especially the ordinance & maintenance soldiers in WW2 often had to fix tracks & retrieve the tanks they were fit to under fire.
Makes this seem to be a casual endeavor.
Awesome video, hope you are getting your wife new bed sheets for Christmas !
At 2:30 in the video " are these things always out of grease?" When you put a new cartridge in, if you leave the plunger all the way out, it goes down slowly as the grease comes out, so you'll always know how much grease you have left in your cartridge!
I decided earlier to take a mid afternoon nap here on my day off. Woke up to find a new video here, and immediately had a half-asleep Rip Van Wrinkle moment, thinking I'd slept for days. 😂😂 Thanks for the pleasant (albeit momentarily panic-inducing) surprise vid, Jon! 😊
I hope you appreciate how nice it is to have a second excavator to help working on large Marge.
You and Pacific Northwest Hillbilly upload at the same time, it is Xmas. Thank You!!
WTF, I thought it was Friday for a moment. How dare you mess up my mental schedule with a great bonus video!!
Great video. Watching this at 23:30 was like watching a thriller film where the bad guy is just around the corner from the victim who's trying to hide.
I'd check with Cliff at C&C about the spring compression. I believe that he will tell u the truth. Like 1 guy said if it's to loose and u throw the track in the middle of a piss-poor place, it might pay to fix it correctly.
This is a great early Christmas present.
The problems just keep coming on that machine Merry Christmas John
I agree with your assessment of the spring and the pretension. I don't see how it can make a diffence once the track is tensioned. Basically just makes the grease pump work harder when tensioning the track from fully loose up to the point where the spring would normally be pretensioned (if im thinking correctly)
FC101, Tough job getting that pin-out. time will tell if u need that long bar. seem like a shock absorber on a truck needs a bar to help keep it inline!
I think that preloading the spring might make for an interesting segment. You would have to make/buy a shaft bole with nut long and strong enough and maybe cut the excess off once you get it loaded. Cutting out the off bolt head would be interesting as well since just welding a shaft on would probably not work due to the preload tension. So careful ark gouging/plasma cutting would probably be in order. The hole might then have to be built up and lined bored since just a heavy washer would not work. Great job on the "pin press." ou might want to get a patent on that!