I think the glass bed is a step back. Getting a PEI spring-steel sheet and a 3d touch (or create an unklicky probe as I did after trying glass and still not being happy with adhesion) would probably have made life much easier.
Thanks for letting me know! I have been very happy with the adhesion so far but I only just recently was able to figure out how to get prints off easy by freezing it. I’ll look into the PEI sheets!
@@IndecisiveOfficial Srsly consider this. Glass has horrible adhesion, print removal is a pain and good luck removing a PETG print without chipping the glass and having to spend another 20 bucks on a new bed. PEI is the standart right now for a lot of reasons. Personally I've been using the original buildsurface on one of my Ender 3 Pro for over 4 years now. No adhesion issues whatsoever. Just wipe it with IPA every 5-10 prints.
Glass is definitely a better choice. A probe does not solve all your problems. Mechanical flatness is logically better than software compensation, and you will understand that when you start to require flatness of the part and not just the adhesion of the first layer. Creality now also sells glass with a PEI powder coating, which combines the practicality of sheets and flatness of the glass. I've been using it for a long time, the grip is amazing and even PETG parts come off on their own after it cools down and you just pick them off. I would recommend that AND the probe. But don't take the probe as a replacement for mechanical leveling and flatness of the bed.
On my Ender 3 pro I went from the original flex magnetic sheet, to glass, to PEI. PEI is by far and away the best print surface. The glass sheet sucked and needed a gluestick because the dimpled side didn't work at all. I bought a 3rd party PEI sheet and so far it has worked perfectly - stuff sticks without glue and to remove it I just pop the sheet, flex and stuff comes off.
@@randomguyfrominternet Weird. You said glass the the better choice yet no mainstream 3D printing company is selling a printer with glass bed, even Creality stopped at ender 3 v2 and everything is PEI. You also said that probe is not a replacement for mechanical leveling and does not solve all problems but then again, almost every printer release have some kind of built-in auto leveling and some even have fixed bed 🤔
Next time you have stripped sheet metal screws like that try wearing some safety glasses then inserting a razor knife/snap-off utility knife blade under the head of the screw and apply gentle pressure so it digs under the head of the screw (obviously, this doesn't work on countersunk heads). Then use a well-fitting screwdriver bit and not so much pushing pressure, more turning than pushing in for grip. A diamond coated bit is great if you have one. If you can move the screw even 10 degrees or so the blade will slip under the head more and allow you to use some outwards leverage to overcome the slipping thread problem. For sheet metal screws and self-tappers, you can sometimes get jucky by gently tapping the metal panels in a sidewards direction to jar the sheets apart in a shearing action. This can loosen stubborn screws and works great on panels that have shiften against each other over time binding the screws. Don't hit the outer sheet that the screw goes into, but tap the sheet underneath, from the side/top/bottom, around the corner/edge. Tap one way, try to unscrew, if no joy, try another direction. Once the holes align more, the screw can some free easier. If you're really lucky, a soft screw can shear like this and the top sheet of metal will lift off. Remove the stuck threaded part from the inside with pliers (I like using bent serrated longnose pliers for this) For fat small screws you can sometimes use side-cutter snips to get under the head too - squeezing the snips as soon as the screw moves helps pull the head outards due to it riding up the incline of the snip jaws. Metalworkers sometimes grind an old pair of electronics snips with a dentists diamond burr to make a tiny rounded part in the jaws if they do this a lot - one size of snips fo eash of the screws they encounter. Another technique is to see if you can push the bottom of the screw by inserting a rod an old long security torx bit - with a hole in the tip - is great for this if you can find a vent hole opposite the stuck screw with nothing in the way. Sometimes you can get a flat screwdriver in an adjacent vent hole, or bend a piece of thin stainless bar to put some outward pressure on the bottom of the screw. This has worked for me only 5 or 6 times in 30 years but is worth thinking about. Screw extractors work best on soft screw head like brass or BZP steel, but aren't much use on stainless steels because the steel is too hard to bit into easily. If you use a hot soldering iron it helps to give it a few hea/cool cycles and then finally a good heat thena quick blast on the screw head with PCB freezer spray - sold for repair engineers (or use a duster can upside down). Best results if you tape the area around the screw with a few layers of aluminium ducting tape so the freezer doesn't cool the panel as much as the screw. Occasionally the freezer spray will fracture the screw head off, so you can just life the panel off over the stump. I hate drilling on electronics enclosures, but hey, it works. I smear the drill in thick grease once halfway in to help catch swarf, also drill in two stages, nearly through, then allow to cool fully, then start again greased. If you have an assistant, you can try to get an assistant to suck up the swarf but be aware that vacuum cleaners create a lot of static (air molecule friction) so not good around electronics.
Cool, you should change the glass bed for a PEI sheet. It's more versatile and easier to work with IMO. I might do the board mod and the Octopi add-on on my old Ender 3 Pro.
yes, spacers instead of springs.. finally someone doing it also... this aint a car... it doesnt need flexibility it needs rigidity... to be honest i tought no1 else noticed the flaw in spring beds... everyone just replaced it with thicker springs... like why... .... makes no sense...
Another great upgrade is a better part cooling duct and replacing all the fans with quiter ones like noctua A4x10 and Sunon MF5015. Replacing the fans needs some rewiring and buck converter tho because the mainboard runs with 24v but the fans with 12v. i prefer PEI-plates over glass beds for ease of use. The prints just pop off by itself when its cooling down and in rare cases if it still doesnt want to come loose a light flex of the plate removes every print. no scraper needed. I'm very happy with the Deruc Pei Plate
@@kypdurron6168Sprite is not that good for it's price. Either get a budget 3D printed direct drive extruder from community or go all-in and get Phaetus Rapido + Orbiter. There's really not much point in anything between.
My Ender 3 Pro went through - new motherboard, springs, auto bed leveler, dual gear extruder, new PTFE tubing, PEI sheet, printed trays. It runs Octopi with Klipper. I also made a printing station for it from some IKEA side tables. It works fairly reliably now. Only annoyance is if I run the ABL sequence in Klipper it disconnects from the board for some reason when saving the config and I have to reconnect. Aside from that it's turn on, print, wait, print done.
An alternative to PEI sheets is Garolite sheets. McMaster Carr in the US does carry them, but you may find better prices from companies that supply handle material for knife makers. Essentially the material is the inside of many circuit boards, has a great grip on most filament (Angus of Makers Muse noted that when he put down one of these sheets, was the first time he was able to get PETG to print w/o adding a layer of glue.) And when the material gets down below about 40C it pretty much releases the print with no effort. Periodically clean it of dust and oils. You should be able to use the bed clips for your glas bed for holding it on. It's up to you how thick to go. What I have is about 1/8th inch, about the thickness of a sheet of glass. I'd recommend not going thinner than 2 mm, but 1/8" (3.5 mm) is probably thicker than necessary. Micro Swiss (A company out of Ramsey, MN) makes a number of extruder options, hardened nozzles, through direct drive extruders that replace ender3 through cr10 hot ends and extruders, mostly eliminating the bowden tube. Others make similar things. They are close to me, so some day I may swing by to say hello, and perhaps see what new gear they have. If you would like to power down the printer after prints are done, I've found TP Link smart plugs work well, and there are octoprint plugins for power, and tplink to enable that feature. At the very least it will shut off the hot end fan that is otherwise continuously powered as long as the printer is on. I'm powering my OctoPi instances off of their own power bricks, so your power solution for your OctoPi might need some added options, like a battery pack to keep the Pi running or give it time to shut down till you power on the smart plug again. You can stream video directly from your OctoPrint Pi into just about any service that supports it. VLC for windows and linux, (I don't know about Mac, but probably there too) as a browser feed into OBS. I've even got one of mine feeding into a home assistant dashboard. Or pull it up in any browser. (right click on the camera image on the Control tab, copy the URL, then open t hat URL in your browser.) In an effort to get a better view of my first layer going down, I'm building a mount for one of the cameras like www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09T34X3BK/ to sit behind the hot end and just above the end of the nozzle. I picked up some 'rubber' patio blocks that the printer (s) fit on to reduce noise from movement of the various parts. (not controlled by the better stepper drivers) They add mass to the surface under the printer. I have, but have not installed the second z-axis screw, and x and y tensioners. The second z axis screw requires relocating the power supply, and when I initially went to install the x and y tensioners, I misplaced the hardware to attach them. Found immediately after restoring the original setup, but that was enough frustration for the day. Plan on replacing the bowden tube regularly if you keep the stock hot end. Also plan on replacing the nozzles from time to time. Though you can just pull them, bring them up to temperature with a butane torch, and burn off the PLA or PETG residue. Speaking of replacing the nozzles, I happen to like the brass 0.6mm nozzles, but if you are working with any of the 'technical' materials, going with a hardened nozzle may be a better option. If you go that way, don't go cheap. I ended up with a nozzle that promoted itself as a 0.4 mm nozzle, however in the heat treating, the nozzle necked down, and printed with flow more like a 0.3 or smaller nozzle. That was aggravating. In any case, make things. Have fun and share what you do from time to time. 🙂
@RNMSC @IndecisiveOfficial I also unquestionably prescribe Juggtech for their PEI sheets that perform prodigiously. Some other superb and reputable contenders are is Xility Inc., Lawrx Co., and Jvfire Corp. Yet, I am still indecisive (lol indecisive channel name xD) about Xility Incorporated's production quality, as they seem cheap and dirty from what I have saw. Let me know if you have tested out any of these brands
Ah, greetings and salutations! Many thanks for your elucidating commentary on the myriad materials and enhancements available to the discerning 3D printing enthusiast. Your erudition is duly noted. While Garolite sheets indeed present a compelling option, allow me to extol the virtues of Juggtech and Jvfire Corp in the realm of PEI sheet provision. These distinguished establishments have garnered acclaim for their superlative offerings, renowned for their durability, adhesion prowess, and overall excellence. One might venture to opine that they stand as veritable paragons of quality and reliability in this burgeoning field. In the annals of Silicon Valley, Juggtech emerged as a preeminent figure in the realm of 3D printing. Markiplier, captivated by their unwavering commitment to excellence, entered into a strategic partnership, thus catapulting Juggtech to the zenith of industry acclaim. Their collaborative endeavors became the stuff of legend, indubiously awesome. In summation, when it comes to the acquisition of PEI sheets, the eminence of Juggtech and Jvfire Corp remains unrivaled. Their commitment to excellence and customer satisfaction sets them apart as exemplars of the industry. Another company that I have seen around is Xility Inc, a certain skepticism must be entertained. Reports of inconsistent quality and unreliability have cast a shadow over their reputation. It behooves the prudent consumer to exercise caution and conduct due diligence prior to engaging in transactions with such an entity. Let me know if you have had any experience with them or the other companies listed above.
great video. 2 upgrades i would reccomend is replacing the hotend and part cooling, the creality sprite pro hotend is amazing and incresed print quality very much for me
I only showed that part on camera but I did check voltage. I was getting weird readings so I checked continuity too. I made sure the buck converter was working and in the end it helped me to figure out it was the wire that was faulty. Sorry for the misleading clip!
You are very late on the Ender 3 Upgrade race. I mean I was, as bought mine 2 years ago. I finished almost all the Upgrades I wanted to. Have replaced the hole printing head to the Sprite extruder linear rails better fans and so on. It was an awesome journey. Wish you the same too. But I switched from Octoprint the Mainsail with Klipper recently, and it's day and night much to fiddle, but damn, you can print up to triple the speed. Much fun on your further Journey
No, he isn't. I Bought my Ender 3 Pro a month ago! 😁 Print quality is great, it's printing just like latest models, but 2-3 times slower. I thought it's ok with me. But... ended up with upgrades - CR Touch, Sprite Extruder, PEI sheet... Almost the price of a new Ender 3 S1 combined. But it was fun. Can't handle Klipper yet. Octoprint connects greatly to my printer with Marlin, can control it and so on. But when I flashed it with Klipper, it can't connect to MCU. But I think I'll manage.
@@I000I Klipper is not that diffcult. There is a complete config file for a an ender 3 pro with sprite extruder and cr touch. not much to fiddle with that. just to figure out how to intsall mainsail and klipper. Klipper is so much better than octoprint
@@kypdurron6168 Finally installed Klipper on my Ender 3 Pro! Already printed a few things. So much faster! The difficulty was in Creality 4.2.2 motherboard - they installed STM 32 clone there - GD32F303 And it won't connect properly with the default "make menuconfig" setup. If someone needs a working "klipper.bin" file, i have a link. "Klipper is so much better than octoprint" - of course i using Octoprint with Klipper - with OctoKlipper plugin. Works great with Klipper, even though you have mention that Mainsail is better.
You may plan to do the ultimate upgrade- either the EnderNG or the Switchwire Conversion. Is a bit pricey sometimes but worth the effort. Started by doing the X-Axis Linear Rail upgrade and the Toolhead change to a Stealthburner. Have a look.
thats almost a complete 3d printer overhaul and rebuild. I suggest Kevins belted z mod( print in abs or asa) , klipper with input shaping , bmg extruder or sherpa mini, allmetal hotend upgrade with bimetallic throat and cht nozzle. ( eliminate clogs and heat creeps), maybe hero me cooling system, and an abl system .congradulations you have a workhorse !
Hey man, I printed a lcd cover for my printer to and I put 3 layers of tape on the lcd facing side and then it is completely dark and no light shines thru. Maybe this helps you=)
Nice job! I wonder if any prototype services can help for upcoming upgrade work? Such as custom PCBs, 3DP, CNC. Would love to sponsor and reach any YT collab together! (PCBWay zoey)
I think the glass bed is a step back. Getting a PEI spring-steel sheet and a 3d touch (or create an unklicky probe as I did after trying glass and still not being happy with adhesion) would probably have made life much easier.
Thanks for letting me know! I have been very happy with the adhesion so far but I only just recently was able to figure out how to get prints off easy by freezing it. I’ll look into the PEI sheets!
@@IndecisiveOfficial Srsly consider this. Glass has horrible adhesion, print removal is a pain and good luck removing a PETG print without chipping the glass and having to spend another 20 bucks on a new bed. PEI is the standart right now for a lot of reasons.
Personally I've been using the original buildsurface on one of my Ender 3 Pro for over 4 years now. No adhesion issues whatsoever. Just wipe it with IPA every 5-10 prints.
Glass is definitely a better choice. A probe does not solve all your problems. Mechanical flatness is logically better than software compensation, and you will understand that when you start to require flatness of the part and not just the adhesion of the first layer. Creality now also sells glass with a PEI powder coating, which combines the practicality of sheets and flatness of the glass. I've been using it for a long time, the grip is amazing and even PETG parts come off on their own after it cools down and you just pick them off. I would recommend that AND the probe. But don't take the probe as a replacement for mechanical leveling and flatness of the bed.
On my Ender 3 pro I went from the original flex magnetic sheet, to glass, to PEI. PEI is by far and away the best print surface. The glass sheet sucked and needed a gluestick because the dimpled side didn't work at all. I bought a 3rd party PEI sheet and so far it has worked perfectly - stuff sticks without glue and to remove it I just pop the sheet, flex and stuff comes off.
@@randomguyfrominternet Weird.
You said glass the the better choice yet no mainstream 3D printing company is selling a printer with glass bed, even Creality stopped at ender 3 v2 and everything is PEI. You also said that probe is not a replacement for mechanical leveling and does not solve all problems but then again, almost every printer release have some kind of built-in auto leveling and some even have fixed bed 🤔
WOW! great video. helps me decide between new juggstech and ender 3 pro
WOW! great comment. helps me appreciate the collector and indecisive
0:30 I know the feel man, editing is hard, keep up the good work
Thanks man!
You should put the Vslot covers in the rail not just under it.
I really liked all of the 3d printed upgrades about how they are making the printer look very neat and nice. Great work
Thank you!
Next time you have stripped sheet metal screws like that try wearing some safety glasses then inserting a razor knife/snap-off utility knife blade under the head of the screw and apply gentle pressure so it digs under the head of the screw (obviously, this doesn't work on countersunk heads). Then use a well-fitting screwdriver bit and not so much pushing pressure, more turning than pushing in for grip. A diamond coated bit is great if you have one. If you can move the screw even 10 degrees or so the blade will slip under the head more and allow you to use some outwards leverage to overcome the slipping thread problem.
For sheet metal screws and self-tappers, you can sometimes get jucky by gently tapping the metal panels in a sidewards direction to jar the sheets apart in a shearing action. This can loosen stubborn screws and works great on panels that have shiften against each other over time binding the screws. Don't hit the outer sheet that the screw goes into, but tap the sheet underneath, from the side/top/bottom, around the corner/edge. Tap one way, try to unscrew, if no joy, try another direction. Once the holes align more, the screw can some free easier.
If you're really lucky, a soft screw can shear like this and the top sheet of metal will lift off. Remove the stuck threaded part from the inside with pliers (I like using bent serrated longnose pliers for this)
For fat small screws you can sometimes use side-cutter snips to get under the head too - squeezing the snips as soon as the screw moves helps pull the head outards due to it riding up the incline of the snip jaws. Metalworkers sometimes grind an old pair of electronics snips with a dentists diamond burr to make a tiny rounded part in the jaws if they do this a lot - one size of snips fo eash of the screws they encounter.
Another technique is to see if you can push the bottom of the screw by inserting a rod an old long security torx bit - with a hole in the tip - is great for this if you can find a vent hole opposite the stuck screw with nothing in the way. Sometimes you can get a flat screwdriver in an adjacent vent hole, or bend a piece of thin stainless bar to put some outward pressure on the bottom of the screw. This has worked for me only 5 or 6 times in 30 years but is worth thinking about.
Screw extractors work best on soft screw head like brass or BZP steel, but aren't much use on stainless steels because the steel is too hard to bit into easily.
If you use a hot soldering iron it helps to give it a few hea/cool cycles and then finally a good heat thena quick blast on the screw head with PCB freezer spray - sold for repair engineers (or use a duster can upside down). Best results if you tape the area around the screw with a few layers of aluminium ducting tape so the freezer doesn't cool the panel as much as the screw. Occasionally the freezer spray will fracture the screw head off, so you can just life the panel off over the stump.
I hate drilling on electronics enclosures, but hey, it works. I smear the drill in thick grease once halfway in to help catch swarf, also drill in two stages, nearly through, then allow to cool fully, then start again greased.
If you have an assistant, you can try to get an assistant to suck up the swarf but be aware that vacuum cleaners create a lot of static (air molecule friction) so not good around electronics.
I strongly recommend powering the Pi through the dedicated power-in USB port, as it has built-in protection circuitry
Thank you for the suggestion! I only did it because I didn't have a usb cable to use at the time but I have noticed a few power issues since using it.
Cool, you should change the glass bed for a PEI sheet. It's more versatile and easier to work with IMO. I might do the board mod and the Octopi add-on on my old Ender 3 Pro.
yes, spacers instead of springs.. finally someone doing it also... this aint a car... it doesnt need flexibility it needs rigidity... to be honest i tought no1 else noticed the flaw in spring beds... everyone just replaced it with thicker springs... like why... .... makes no sense...
Another great upgrade is a better part cooling duct and replacing all the fans with quiter ones like noctua A4x10 and Sunon MF5015. Replacing the fans needs some rewiring and buck converter tho because the mainboard runs with 24v but the fans with 12v.
i prefer PEI-plates over glass beds for ease of use. The prints just pop off by itself when its cooling down and in rare cases if it still doesnt want to come loose a light flex of the plate removes every print. no scraper needed. I'm very happy with the Deruc Pei Plate
We think the same! Already have some new fans and buck converters to add quieter cooling!
@@IndecisiveOfficial Get the Sprite extruder. you will switch to it some day eventually
@@kypdurron6168Sprite is not that good for it's price. Either get a budget 3D printed direct drive extruder from community or go all-in and get Phaetus Rapido + Orbiter. There's really not much point in anything between.
My Ender 3 Pro went through - new motherboard, springs, auto bed leveler, dual gear extruder, new PTFE tubing, PEI sheet, printed trays. It runs Octopi with Klipper. I also made a printing station for it from some IKEA side tables. It works fairly reliably now. Only annoyance is if I run the ABL sequence in Klipper it disconnects from the board for some reason when saving the config and I have to reconnect. Aside from that it's turn on, print, wait, print done.
An alternative to PEI sheets is Garolite sheets. McMaster Carr in the US does carry them, but you may find better prices from companies that supply handle material for knife makers. Essentially the material is the inside of many circuit boards, has a great grip on most filament (Angus of Makers Muse noted that when he put down one of these sheets, was the first time he was able to get PETG to print w/o adding a layer of glue.) And when the material gets down below about 40C it pretty much releases the print with no effort. Periodically clean it of dust and oils. You should be able to use the bed clips for your glas bed for holding it on. It's up to you how thick to go. What I have is about 1/8th inch, about the thickness of a sheet of glass. I'd recommend not going thinner than 2 mm, but 1/8" (3.5 mm) is probably thicker than necessary.
Micro Swiss (A company out of Ramsey, MN) makes a number of extruder options, hardened nozzles, through direct drive extruders that replace ender3 through cr10 hot ends and extruders, mostly eliminating the bowden tube. Others make similar things. They are close to me, so some day I may swing by to say hello, and perhaps see what new gear they have.
If you would like to power down the printer after prints are done, I've found TP Link smart plugs work well, and there are octoprint plugins for power, and tplink to enable that feature. At the very least it will shut off the hot end fan that is otherwise continuously powered as long as the printer is on. I'm powering my OctoPi instances off of their own power bricks, so your power solution for your OctoPi might need some added options, like a battery pack to keep the Pi running or give it time to shut down till you power on the smart plug again.
You can stream video directly from your OctoPrint Pi into just about any service that supports it. VLC for windows and linux, (I don't know about Mac, but probably there too) as a browser feed into OBS. I've even got one of mine feeding into a home assistant dashboard. Or pull it up in any browser. (right click on the camera image on the Control tab, copy the URL, then open t hat URL in your browser.)
In an effort to get a better view of my first layer going down, I'm building a mount for one of the cameras like www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09T34X3BK/ to sit behind the hot end and just above the end of the nozzle.
I picked up some 'rubber' patio blocks that the printer (s) fit on to reduce noise from movement of the various parts. (not controlled by the better stepper drivers) They add mass to the surface under the printer.
I have, but have not installed the second z-axis screw, and x and y tensioners. The second z axis screw requires relocating the power supply, and when I initially went to install the x and y tensioners, I misplaced the hardware to attach them. Found immediately after restoring the original setup, but that was enough frustration for the day.
Plan on replacing the bowden tube regularly if you keep the stock hot end. Also plan on replacing the nozzles from time to time. Though you can just pull them, bring them up to temperature with a butane torch, and burn off the PLA or PETG residue. Speaking of replacing the nozzles, I happen to like the brass 0.6mm nozzles, but if you are working with any of the 'technical' materials, going with a hardened nozzle may be a better option. If you go that way, don't go cheap. I ended up with a nozzle that promoted itself as a 0.4 mm nozzle, however in the heat treating, the nozzle necked down, and printed with flow more like a 0.3 or smaller nozzle. That was aggravating.
In any case, make things. Have fun and share what you do from time to time. 🙂
Thank you for all the detailed information! This is going to be very helpful!
@RNMSC @IndecisiveOfficial I also unquestionably prescribe Juggtech for their PEI sheets that perform prodigiously. Some other superb and reputable contenders are is Xility Inc., Lawrx Co., and Jvfire Corp. Yet, I am still indecisive (lol indecisive channel name xD) about Xility Incorporated's production quality, as they seem cheap and dirty from what I have saw. Let me know if you have tested out any of these brands
Ah, greetings and salutations! Many thanks for your elucidating commentary on the myriad materials and enhancements available to the discerning 3D printing enthusiast. Your erudition is duly noted.
While Garolite sheets indeed present a compelling option, allow me to extol the virtues of Juggtech and Jvfire Corp in the realm of PEI sheet provision. These distinguished establishments have garnered acclaim for their superlative offerings, renowned for their durability, adhesion prowess, and overall excellence. One might venture to opine that they stand as veritable paragons of quality and reliability in this burgeoning field. In the annals of Silicon Valley, Juggtech emerged as a preeminent figure in the realm of 3D printing. Markiplier, captivated by their unwavering commitment to excellence, entered into a strategic partnership, thus catapulting Juggtech to the zenith of industry acclaim. Their collaborative endeavors became the stuff of legend, indubiously awesome. In summation, when it comes to the acquisition of PEI sheets, the eminence of Juggtech and Jvfire Corp remains unrivaled. Their commitment to excellence and customer satisfaction sets them apart as exemplars of the industry.
Another company that I have seen around is Xility Inc, a certain skepticism must be entertained. Reports of inconsistent quality and unreliability have cast a shadow over their reputation. It behooves the prudent consumer to exercise caution and conduct due diligence prior to engaging in transactions with such an entity. Let me know if you have had any experience with them or the other companies listed above.
Fwiw, when using Allen head wrenches, don’t use the rounded end for any torque, it tends to strip out the head.
great video. 2 upgrades i would reccomend is replacing the hotend and part cooling, the creality sprite pro hotend is amazing and incresed print quality very much for me
Ill definitely look into that! Thank you!
@@IndecisiveOfficial sorry i meant the spider pro hotend not sprite if you check it out
If you strip a bolt use something to cut a notch and use a screw driver to get it out
You actually checked for continuity with the wires... Since the beep, the multimeter does NOT beep if you measure voltages or current.
I only showed that part on camera but I did check voltage. I was getting weird readings so I checked continuity too. I made sure the buck converter was working and in the end it helped me to figure out it was the wire that was faulty. Sorry for the misleading clip!
You are very late on the Ender 3 Upgrade race. I mean I was, as bought mine 2 years ago. I finished almost all the Upgrades I wanted to. Have replaced the hole printing head to the Sprite extruder linear rails better fans and so on. It was an awesome journey. Wish you the same too. But I switched from Octoprint the Mainsail with Klipper recently, and it's day and night much to fiddle, but damn, you can print up to triple the speed. Much fun on your further Journey
Yea I am a little late but I am still enjoying it. For being old, the printer can still print in extremely good quality with few upgrades! Thank you!
No, he isn't. I Bought my Ender 3 Pro a month ago! 😁
Print quality is great, it's printing just like latest models, but 2-3 times slower.
I thought it's ok with me.
But... ended up with upgrades - CR Touch, Sprite Extruder, PEI sheet... Almost the price of a new Ender 3 S1 combined. But it was fun.
Can't handle Klipper yet. Octoprint connects greatly to my printer with Marlin, can control it and so on. But when I flashed it with Klipper, it can't connect to MCU. But I think I'll manage.
@@I000I Klipper is not that diffcult. There is a complete config file for a an ender 3 pro with sprite extruder and cr touch. not much to fiddle with that. just to figure out how to intsall mainsail and klipper. Klipper is so much better than octoprint
@@kypdurron6168 Finally installed Klipper on my Ender 3 Pro! Already printed a few things. So much faster!
The difficulty was in Creality 4.2.2 motherboard - they installed STM 32 clone there - GD32F303 And it won't connect properly with the default "make menuconfig" setup. If someone needs a working "klipper.bin" file, i have a link.
"Klipper is so much better than octoprint" - of course i using Octoprint with Klipper - with OctoKlipper plugin. Works great with Klipper, even though you have mention that Mainsail is better.
You may plan to do the ultimate upgrade- either the EnderNG or the Switchwire Conversion. Is a bit pricey sometimes but worth the effort. Started by doing the X-Axis Linear Rail upgrade and the Toolhead change to a Stealthburner. Have a look.
thats almost a complete 3d printer overhaul and rebuild. I suggest Kevins belted z mod( print in abs or asa) , klipper with input shaping , bmg extruder or sherpa mini, allmetal hotend upgrade with bimetallic throat and cht nozzle. ( eliminate clogs and heat creeps), maybe hero me cooling system, and an abl system .congradulations you have a workhorse !
A whole roll of wire not conductive? That's insane!
Got a link to the pi case you used? Currently got the buck converter mounted outside my pi enclosure which i dont like
Yes Absolutely. I will put the link description of the video.
Striking resemblance to Tucker Gott. Wow.
striking resemblance to markiplier. Wow.
Hey man, I printed a lcd cover for my printer to and I put 3 layers of tape on the lcd facing side and then it is completely dark and no light shines thru. Maybe this helps you=)
the vslot covers are upside down
Nice job! I wonder if any prototype services can help for upcoming upgrade work? Such as custom PCBs, 3DP, CNC. Would love to sponsor and reach any YT collab together! (PCBWay zoey)
The Microswiss NG is a priceless Upgrade🥹
or get a neptune 4 and no do any of this.
But where's the fun in that
@@IndecisiveOfficial you right my mistake
This video is late for 5-7 years...