I grew up doing home haunts with my mom. Watching you’re videos has inspired me to start again at my own home with my wife and kid. Thank you sir for all your great knowledge!
Super awesome build. I built one a few years ago very similarly. I used a $5.99 prebuilt RGB LED "color organ" and just had it drive a prebuilt SSR module(could use relays also for more current.. lots of clickity clickity) /could do the same with some mosfets for your 12v. (ebay search - 20 key RGB sound activated and mosfet/ssr/relay modules) . The best audio / light enhancement trick is to take your lightning recording drop it into audacity, convert it to mono, make it 2 mono tracks, move one channel forward about .5 - 2 seconds then save as stereo. You hook your lightning effects to the forwarded audio side and the audio to the other track. You get the lighting first then the sound. The staggered timing does really make more realistic in your mind. .... Also unsolder the resistor that fed the Electret mic its dc. I could not find the schematic online, or would tell yuou the resistor number- sigh.. It will be the resistor that is connected to the + of the mic trace (there should already be a decoupling cap as part of the mic circuit ) . This should solve your problem. As others mentioned the dc blocking cap inline could/should work, give it a try.
Excellent tutorial. This can be greatly improved with the use of an audio editing program. In the program convert the sound file to mono then convert it back to stereo. That will give you two identical audio channels. Then edit the left channel to be slightly lower in volume and a second or two ahead of the right channel. Then connect the left channel to the color organ and the right channel to your speakers. This will make it so it's easier to adjust the color organ. It will also make it so the lightning flashes before the thunder, better mimicking reality.
Found your page a few weeks back and Im absolutely hooked! Thanks for putting out all these amazing videos, every one is a hit and there's always something to learn.
I still have my Perfect Storm lightning machine I got off Amazon years ago, dont see it anymore on the site. I modified the speaker input to take an input jack. I love that you can adjust the sensitivity to make the lightning look different
re: the Soldering Challenge: you may have only nine fingers but I think you greatly over-estimate the ability of the ten I own. Thanks as usual for another affordable yet high-qualty effect hack.
I was lucky enough to find an original unopened lighting in a box a few weeks ago at a local second hand store for a few bucks. But was wanting a second one for another prop. Thank you for finding a way to replicate the effect.
I can smell the first part of this video. I love assembling circuit boards, and while I don't necessarily love the smell of solder, I enjoy it in the nostalgic sense. Nice job. I've built my own color organs in the past, and it was a pain to find all the appropriate components (looking at you radio shack). I'll have to check out this kit.
Overall a great effect, and that's what I expected to happen. The Mic. input is basically to "hot" for a line-out signal level... But, yes you can attenuate the signal with a 50K pot (that's my typical "audio" go-to value)... The line-out goes across the pot (top and bottom leads) and the wiper (center lead) connects to your input along with the ground... or replace the pot with two fixed resistors you can measure the pot once you're happy with the settings, or you can try a 47K and 1K resistors that are connected in series, put the line-out across the resistor the two resistors and tap your input in the middle of the resistors, (across the 1K resistor). That's how you can eliminate a pot from the circuit. I'd also add one more component to decouple any DC offset from the amp, use a small ceramic (non polarized) capacitor like an 0.1 uF. in series with the input to your device. If there is any DC voltage from the amp, the cap passes just the "audio" portion and without needed to compensate for the DC voltage you can set your sensitivity pot on your light organ lower and get better control of the threshold where your light triggers. Disclaimer: You may need to experiment with the cap value, but I'd start at 0.1 uF. and depending on my results go from there, you may find you need a 1 uF or a 4.7 uF but I've used 0.1 uF and thought that was good enough... most of these components are ballpark values and not super critical for this application. How do I know this stuff? well chalk it up to having done this kind of thing myself and a 2-year degree in electronics... so I don't know everything, just enough to be dangerous... 😜 LOL.
The decoupling cap is a good idea, not because of DC offset from the amp but because the small MIC used is most likly a Jfet MIC like used in every thing these days. That means there is a DC pull up added to make the MIC work. So adding the decuppling cap will take care of that as well.
@@nyetloki, So while the output of the amp has a lot of power to drive a speaker, and it could blow up the input or damage it if you don't attenuate the signal (make smaller). Think of it like using a small straw to drink instead of taking a big gulp. Attenuation can get complicated for reasons... but for our application is less fussy and we can get away for a few basic components, the key ones being: #1. a series resistor that limits the current, and #2. a 0.1 uF Capacitor to allow the AC signal to pass, but not the DC component... this prevents the signal from the amp from overdriving the input by going above or below the voltage rails... I added a 3rd component a 50K potentiometer ("pot") to adjust the threshold so I can make the trigger point adjustable when the light would respond to the input. I've DIY'ed this completely from scratch in my haunt... and used it to control a prop _and_ lightning. I don't have any behind the scenes, but you can see how I used this effect. Check out my channel 2021 Yard display ua-cam.com/video/IDwy2YApNkY/v-deo.html ... I also did the same thing in my 2019 Haunted Garage (you'll see a link at the end of the 2021 video). Here's how it works: In both those haunts the visitor walks up and trips a PIR sensor that starts up my Grimm Prop talking. On one channel I have ONLY the speaking audio for Grimm -- the audio you hear is also used to drive the jaw motion (that I need to fix better). The other channel is dedicated ONLY for the lightning effect which is tied into the bright LED light controlled by the audio coming from that channel. So what you see and hear is while Grim is talking the other channel is quiet until the thunder sounds... by putting the talking and sound effects on separate channels you get more control.
A couple of years back I bought the fully assembled and ready to go "Perfect Storm" unit. Ii works great and cost only $40. Add sound from included CD, and a light(I use 500 watt construction light which is half of what it can handle. Viola! A massive thunder storm behind my cemetery!
Not bad! I used a Christmas light organ for the same thing. Also recorded the audio track out of sync, Left is the light, Right is outside audio. Left is 0.25 seconds before the right so you get the flash first then the sound.
Awesome video. I had a strobe light that had "thunderstorm" mode where it made thunder sounds and flashed like lightning. I have turned my storage building upside down and cannot find it. I looked everywhere online and couldn't find one. I'm going to try this build. Not afraid of a soldering iron.
Tried to build one too, but then just with the mic. Must have been doing something wrong because it works like a stroboscoop and not reacting to sound.... Currently Im playing with LSC Smart Connect, which is a cheap smart light system with sensors and plugs and stuff. With this you can easily build like automations when ppl pass by. Works quite well :)
Really like this project! Another alternative, although it is pricy, is the Phillips LED strip lights. They have several lightening effects you can download on their app. The downside to that is you have to buy the Phillips LED light strip and the Phillips hub. It has great effects though.
The mk186 or vm186 uses a LM324N quad amplifier IC. You are powering it at 12V, so the ICs input should only be 12V max. A typical speaker output will be 30V to 100V peak to peak (-30 to 30 vrms). That you didn't fry the IC is amazing. *You are not using line out you are using speaker out levels*. You can solve this by adding a voltage divider resistor pair. A 10k to 1k or 100k to 10k for a 10:1 reduction would work and give you the control via the pot on the front. But if you *already have amplification involved* then a simpler circuit of the transistor driver alone is needed. The IC is used as a multistage amplifier from 0.3V mic output to a higher 12V voltage range in the first place!
Just found this while looking up ideas for how to do something similar but for my drummer's kit. Think this would work with a drum trigger whenever he hits his kick or snare?
I got these boards after I saw your videos they did exactly what I need them to do do I use the little MP3 player with a lightning storm sound sample over 2 hours worth it worked perfectly it looks fantastic so thanks I appreciate the video save me trying to get that ridiculous lightning thing from America forgot what it was called Perfect lightning storm box thing
They're from the old Disney Haunted Mansion album, but the sound effect itself is called "castle thunder" and made its first appearance in the 1931 film Frankenstein.
I really like this Effect! I wonder, could it be used for a "Force Lightning" effect with an Emperor Palpatine full size prop, using sound FX thru the amp?
Nice find. Interesting that they fully built board is almost as much as the old Morris Perfect Storm FX Box was. But this would be great for Window Vignettes.. How long would you say it took to solder the components together? thanks
It's $28 these days and then you have the box and have to provide audio. I made some for just a couple of bucks using an Arduino and a MOSFET. No need for audio. The Arduino program can easily mimic lightning/electrical discharge patterns. I use one on an electric chair along with audio and dog control.
Velleman kits are fantastic! Sadly I believe they aren't produced anymore. Definitely a great method. Not quite as time consuming as the Method I used for the tower of terror theatre build 😂
You can still get them online. I didn't have any problem locating some, but I have no clue if that's just what's left of what's been produced. Maybe I should go into business making lightning kits. LOL
Velleman appears to be alive and well, though many of their electronics kits are now listed as "obsolete." In same cases, there are newer models. In others, it looks like they've tried to pivot to microcontroller-based kits.
They have a strobe light on Amazon for $13! It’s sound responsive too and works great all plug in electric no batteries and you can adjust the sensitivity or run it without sound responsive qualities!!!
Do you typically use LED's with your lightning effects? I this is the only prop that I tend to stick with standard halogen worklights because I thought that they react better to the dimming effect. Do you not find this to be true?
I use LED lights that can be dimmed so that you get the widest range of light, but Halogen work great too, although not with this controller. It's only designed for use with LED lights.
That’s a nice kelvin chart for explaining it ⚡️ so, the light is responding to the sound? Or vice versa? I have a CHEAPO battery LED string that has a “Sound activated “ part to the on/off switch… wondered immediately if it’s using the same type of sound detector tech. Either way, science is fun! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
"Ok, I lied..." ME=SNORT-LAUGH Having sold our home a few months ago, this will be the first Halloween in my entire adult life without a yard to haunt. I might have to crash the VanOaks Cemetery! MWAAAHAAAHAAAAA!!!
@@VanOaksPropssorry I didn’t see you answered. Both the vellemans items are unavailable. I could try searching them and get it somewhere else though. I’m still grinding on the arduino changing picture and having the hardest time. I get everything in the correct place but there are just a couple things I can’t see what holes they go in on your layout. It’s your layout that provides exactly what I’m lookin to do but for the life of me i just can’t figure out the couple of holes you can’t see from the top.
I grew up doing home haunts with my mom. Watching you’re videos has inspired me to start again at my own home with my wife and kid. Thank you sir for all your great knowledge!
You encouraged me a couple of years ago to give soldering a try & im so glad I did. Thanks for the push!
Super awesome build. I built one a few years ago very similarly. I used a $5.99 prebuilt RGB LED "color organ" and just had it drive a prebuilt SSR module(could use relays also for more current.. lots of clickity clickity) /could do the same with some mosfets for your 12v. (ebay search - 20 key RGB sound activated and mosfet/ssr/relay modules) . The best audio / light enhancement trick is to take your lightning recording drop it into audacity, convert it to mono, make it 2 mono tracks, move one channel forward about .5 - 2 seconds then save as stereo. You hook your lightning effects to the forwarded audio side and the audio to the other track. You get the lighting first then the sound. The staggered timing does really make more realistic in your mind. .... Also unsolder the resistor that fed the Electret mic its dc. I could not find the schematic online, or would tell yuou the resistor number- sigh.. It will be the resistor that is connected to the + of the mic trace (there should already be a decoupling cap as part of the mic circuit ) . This should solve your problem. As others mentioned the dc blocking cap inline could/should work, give it a try.
Excellent tutorial. This can be greatly improved with the use of an audio editing program. In the program convert the sound file to mono then convert it back to stereo. That will give you two identical audio channels. Then edit the left channel to be slightly lower in volume and a second or two ahead of the right channel. Then connect the left channel to the color organ and the right channel to your speakers. This will make it so it's easier to adjust the color organ. It will also make it so the lightning flashes before the thunder, better mimicking reality.
The finger joke alone deserved a thumbs up. Thanks for sharing this idea.
👍🏻
Found your page a few weeks back and Im absolutely hooked! Thanks for putting out all these amazing videos, every one is a hit and there's always something to learn.
Glad you like them!
I still have my Perfect Storm lightning machine I got off Amazon years ago, dont see it anymore on the site. I modified the speaker input to take an input jack. I love that you can adjust the sensitivity to make the lightning look different
now they make that one with an audio in. they are hit and miss online but cost around $40-$60 so this is way cheaper.
Would you mind sharing how you did the mod? Was it just an 1:1 swap or did you use additional hardware?
Derek! You're amazing! You just saved me from shelling out several hundred dollars on a lightning box. Wish me luck and keep up the awesome work!
Glad I could help!
re: the Soldering Challenge: you may have only nine fingers but I think you greatly over-estimate the ability of the ten I own. Thanks as usual for another affordable yet high-qualty effect hack.
My husband wanted to know if it could be done with the seven that he has, LOL
Fair enough! HAHAHA
I'm going to say yes. :-)
I was lucky enough to find an original unopened lighting in a box a few weeks ago at a local second hand store for a few bucks. But was wanting a second one for another prop. Thank you for finding a way to replicate the effect.
Nice! That's a good find. Those old boxes are kind of indestructible.
A pretty cool modification of the previous light organ technique.
very cool! love the mansion thunder sound too!
Good ear!
I can smell the first part of this video. I love assembling circuit boards, and while I don't necessarily love the smell of solder, I enjoy it in the nostalgic sense. Nice job. I've built my own color organs in the past, and it was a pain to find all the appropriate components (looking at you radio shack). I'll have to check out this kit.
Great Job! Fan of your work Would love to see you do a version of the bottomless pit prop.
Noted!
Overall a great effect, and that's what I expected to happen. The Mic. input is basically to "hot" for a line-out signal level... But, yes you can attenuate the signal with a 50K pot (that's my typical "audio" go-to value)... The line-out goes across the pot (top and bottom leads) and the wiper (center lead) connects to your input along with the ground... or replace the pot with two fixed resistors you can measure the pot once you're happy with the settings, or you can try a 47K and 1K resistors that are connected in series, put the line-out across the resistor the two resistors and tap your input in the middle of the resistors, (across the 1K resistor). That's how you can eliminate a pot from the circuit.
I'd also add one more component to decouple any DC offset from the amp, use a small ceramic (non polarized) capacitor like an 0.1 uF. in series with the input to your device. If there is any DC voltage from the amp, the cap passes just the "audio" portion and without needed to compensate for the DC voltage you can set your sensitivity pot on your light organ lower and get better control of the threshold where your light triggers.
Disclaimer: You may need to experiment with the cap value, but I'd start at 0.1 uF. and depending on my results go from there, you may find you need a 1 uF or a 4.7 uF but I've used 0.1 uF and thought that was good enough... most of these components are ballpark values and not super critical for this application.
How do I know this stuff? well chalk it up to having done this kind of thing myself and a 2-year degree in electronics... so I don't know everything, just enough to be dangerous... 😜 LOL.
The decoupling cap is a good idea, not because of DC offset from the amp but because the small MIC used is most likly a Jfet MIC like used in every thing these days. That means there is a DC pull up added to make the MIC work. So adding the decuppling cap will take care of that as well.
This is amplified speaker out *not* line out. I'm surprised it didn't blow the input of the I'm guessing op-amp being used from overvoltage.
@@nyetloki, So while the output of the amp has a lot of power to drive a speaker, and it could blow up the input or damage it if you don't attenuate the signal (make smaller). Think of it like using a small straw to drink instead of taking a big gulp. Attenuation can get complicated for reasons... but for our application is less fussy and we can get away for a few basic components, the key ones being: #1. a series resistor that limits the current, and #2. a 0.1 uF Capacitor to allow the AC signal to pass, but not the DC component... this prevents the signal from the amp from overdriving the input by going above or below the voltage rails... I added a 3rd component a 50K potentiometer ("pot") to adjust the threshold so I can make the trigger point adjustable when the light would respond to the input.
I've DIY'ed this completely from scratch in my haunt... and used it to control a prop _and_ lightning. I don't have any behind the scenes, but you can see how I used this effect. Check out my channel 2021 Yard display ua-cam.com/video/IDwy2YApNkY/v-deo.html ... I also did the same thing in my 2019 Haunted Garage (you'll see a link at the end of the 2021 video). Here's how it works: In both those haunts the visitor walks up and trips a PIR sensor that starts up my Grimm Prop talking. On one channel I have ONLY the speaking audio for Grimm -- the audio you hear is also used to drive the jaw motion (that I need to fix better). The other channel is dedicated ONLY for the lightning effect which is tied into the bright LED light controlled by the audio coming from that channel. So what you see and hear is while Grim is talking the other channel is quiet until the thunder sounds... by putting the talking and sound effects on separate channels you get more control.
Great job Derek!
Your creativity is amazing and inspirational
A couple of years back I bought the fully assembled and ready to go "Perfect Storm" unit. Ii works great and cost only $40. Add sound from included CD, and a light(I use 500 watt construction light which is half of what it can handle. Viola! A massive thunder storm behind my cemetery!
Thats a great deal on a Perfect Storm unit.
Impressive, most impressive!
Thank you very much!
Not bad! I used a Christmas light organ for the same thing. Also recorded the audio track out of sync, Left is the light, Right is outside audio. Left is 0.25 seconds before the right so you get the flash first then the sound.
Yes! The audio offset is a great addition.
Nice!!...Right on time for Halloween! Thank you, Derek!
You bet!
That is soooooo cool!
Awesome video. I had a strobe light that had "thunderstorm" mode where it made thunder sounds and flashed like lightning. I have turned my storage building upside down and cannot find it. I looked everywhere online and couldn't find one. I'm going to try this build. Not afraid of a soldering iron.
Sadly, they don’t make that module anymore. Although you may find them on eBay.
@@VanOaksProps Oh that figures. I'll keep searching
Nice idea
Another great video! I think adding a relay, or maybe a transistor to the output circuit would allow us to use a brighter, mains voltage LED flood.
Possibly, although the floods I used were plenty bright.
@@VanOaksProps What wattage is it? I was thinking something like a 100w LED flood would be good to flash a whole yard display.
@@PixPete That single floodlight is 75w equivalent
Tried to build one too, but then just with the mic. Must have been doing something wrong because it works like a stroboscoop and not reacting to sound....
Currently Im playing with LSC Smart Connect, which is a cheap smart light system with sensors and plugs and stuff. With this you can easily build like automations when ppl pass by. Works quite well :)
I toke a soldering class in high school, I may need to re-learn how to do something’s but I think I can do it.
You can do it!
super neat, but your link for the Organ Kit takes you to Amazon with a $37 price tag??
Amazon may not be the best option right now. If you google “Velleman led light organ” you can find it for less.
Really like this project! Another alternative, although it is pricy, is the Phillips LED strip lights. They have several lightening effects you can download on their app. The downside to that is you have to buy the Phillips LED light strip and the Phillips hub. It has great effects though.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing that.
The mk186 or vm186 uses a LM324N quad amplifier IC. You are powering it at 12V, so the ICs input should only be 12V max. A typical speaker output will be 30V to 100V peak to peak (-30 to 30 vrms). That you didn't fry the IC is amazing. *You are not using line out you are using speaker out levels*. You can solve this by adding a voltage divider resistor pair. A 10k to 1k or 100k to 10k for a 10:1 reduction would work and give you the control via the pot on the front. But if you *already have amplification involved* then a simpler circuit of the transistor driver alone is needed. The IC is used as a multistage amplifier from 0.3V mic output to a higher 12V voltage range in the first place!
Good to know!
Just found this while looking up ideas for how to do something similar but for my drummer's kit. Think this would work with a drum trigger whenever he hits his kick or snare?
I couldn't say. I'm not familiar with drum triggers.
I got these boards after I saw your videos they did exactly what I need them to do do I use the little MP3 player with a lightning storm sound sample over 2 hours worth it worked perfectly it looks fantastic so thanks I appreciate the video save me trying to get that ridiculous lightning thing from America forgot what it was called Perfect lightning storm box thing
That is awesome!
Exactly what i wanted to know.Your vid is awesome! Where did you find the sound files for the thunderstorm? I like it
They're from the old Disney Haunted Mansion album, but the sound effect itself is called "castle thunder" and made its first appearance in the 1931 film Frankenstein.
That's Cool!!!!! Awesome Info!!!! Thank You!!!! 👏👍😎🎃💀😃
Any time!
Pretty tricky!! Have you found any lightning boxes lately? Halloween stuff is out lol
You always make it look so easy...I really need to go make something.. you keep telling me too. Maybe I will finally listen...hahahaha
Yeah you do!
or place a resistor on the input to reduce the gain amplification.
I really like this Effect! I wonder, could it be used for a "Force Lightning" effect with an Emperor Palpatine full size prop, using sound FX thru the amp?
Absolutely.
Would there be anything similar to the velleman kits? They are unavailable now
I’m on the hunt for one but haven’t found one yet
Would I be able to use a dimmer switch to basically control the volume output and fix the problem you had?
You know, I’m not sure.
Super cool Derek. What’s the mod if you buy it built instead of from scratch?
You'd remove/desolder the tiny microphone and add in the RCA line.
That’s a neat hack.
Thanks!
Nice find. Interesting that they fully built board is almost as much as the old Morris Perfect Storm FX Box was. But this would be great for Window Vignettes.. How long would you say it took to solder the components together?
thanks
20 minutes, tops. There's only about 12 parts to solder.
@@VanOaksProps thanks
Nice job.
Thanks!
Sadly these kits don’t seem to be available anymore. :(
You may be able to find them on ebay.
That’s so weird you posted this.
I was legit looking at lighting stuff off of Amazon for Halloween. 😂🎃
Hopefully this was helpful!
Where did you get your soldering station? I need to get one!
BTW an amazing project! I feel that I can do this.
There’s links to everything in the video description. You absolutely can 👍🏻
It's $28 these days and then you have the box and have to provide audio. I made some for just a couple of bucks using an Arduino and a MOSFET. No need for audio. The Arduino program can easily mimic lightning/electrical discharge patterns. I use one on an electric chair along with audio and dog control.
Damn price changes!
👍 the clips from Harbor Freight or similar 😂 I have one with a magnifying glass!
Mine used to have the magnifying glass but it disappeared. Lol
For a year or so mine was set up in a display case with stngray barbs in the clips positioned to se them through the magnifying glass
Is there a link to buy this? Or something similar 12v.. I have a perfect storm.. looking for 12v.. I never soldier before
There’s a link in the video description.
Nice!!!
Thanks!
Velleman kits are fantastic! Sadly I believe they aren't produced anymore. Definitely a great method. Not quite as time consuming as the Method I used for the tower of terror theatre build 😂
You can still get them online. I didn't have any problem locating some, but I have no clue if that's just what's left of what's been produced. Maybe I should go into business making lightning kits. LOL
@@VanOaksProps haha! I say that with different oddball things CONSTANTLY! I totally can relate haha 😆
Velleman appears to be alive and well, though many of their electronics kits are now listed as "obsolete." In same cases, there are newer models. In others, it looks like they've tried to pivot to microcontroller-based kits.
@@haywardhaunter2620 yup. Sadly the simpler diy kits are being phased out.
They have a strobe light on Amazon for $13! It’s sound responsive too and works great all plug in electric no batteries and you can adjust the sensitivity or run it without sound responsive qualities!!!
Good to know!
Do you typically use LED's with your lightning effects? I this is the only prop that I tend to stick with standard halogen worklights because I thought that they react better to the dimming effect. Do you not find this to be true?
I use LED lights that can be dimmed so that you get the widest range of light, but Halogen work great too, although not with this controller. It's only designed for use with LED lights.
Thank u
That’s a nice kelvin chart for explaining it ⚡️ so, the light is responding to the sound? Or vice versa?
I have a CHEAPO battery LED string that has a “Sound activated “ part to the on/off switch… wondered immediately if it’s using the same type of sound detector tech.
Either way, science is fun! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
That’s correct. The sound triggers the light.
I only have 8 fingers. Think i can still do it too?
Definitely.
Cool
Thanks!
"Ok, I lied..." ME=SNORT-LAUGH
Having sold our home a few months ago, this will be the first Halloween in my entire adult life without a yard to haunt. I might have to crash the VanOaks Cemetery! MWAAAHAAAHAAAAA!!!
We’d love that!
@@VanOaksProps Wheeeee!!!!!
It’s been a while since this video posted but lots of items aren’t available.
Which ones? Maybe I can find replacements
@@VanOaksPropssorry I didn’t see you answered. Both the vellemans items are unavailable. I could try searching them and get it somewhere else though. I’m still grinding on the arduino changing picture and having the hardest time. I get everything in the correct place but there are just a couple things I can’t see what holes they go in on your layout. It’s your layout that provides exactly what I’m lookin to do but for the life of me i just can’t figure out the couple of holes you can’t see from the top.
That's awesome! But I'm so confused 🤣🤣🤦♀️🤦♀️
I’m happy to answer any questions. 🎃
It may be just my phone but the video quality is very low and it won't let me select a higher grade.
Looked pretty clear to me
It may be your connection? Not sure.
But lightening come before the thunder surely
Surely.
Yeah just buy the perfect storm box
That’s always an option.
@@VanOaksProps well maybe not anymore I see its out of stock everywhere maybe they stopped making them
Not exactly $20 or even anywhere close to that. More like $150 to $200.
Not sure what you mean. I paid $19.95 for the led light organ.