To the people here that are commenting about where this tractor is made and touting the green and orange because they're made in the United States remember this,, most of the large industrial farming tractors made by the green company are indeed made in the USA, however much of their smaller lines come from all over the world or they use parts sourced from all over the world. I have a Kubota and it was manufactured in Georgia, but it has a Japanese engine and other parts made in Japan because Kubota is a Japanese company. The same is true for most of the other color tractors, blue, red, green, orange etc. just like so-called American cars and trucks, most tractors anymore have parts sourced from all over the world no matter where they are manufactured.
I am partial to Kioti for this reason - they make the WHOLE tractor inhouse. To my thinking, this seems like it could help with parts availability down the road.
@@stephenoffiler8024 heard Kioti tractors are solid, but this is from google "Kioti tractors are manufactured by Daedong, a South Korean company that specializes in agricultural machinery. Daedong is also one of the world's largest steel manufacturers and supplies products to other major brands, including Bobcat, Mahindra, MCCormick, and Cub Cadet." So in house? Yes?....
Interesting information. I had looked at LS a few years ago. I love manual transmission vehicles but for my purposes of loader and grapple work, everyone has talked me into the hydrostatic. Great series!
Yeah, I like driving a stick. I am thinking everyone is convincing me not to get the gear drive for the work I’ll be doing though…. I’m enjoying the search!
I own an LS tractor, it is G3033H and it's 10 years old. Only thing that I had to fix was 2 new front tires because of dry rot, while living in Florida and one little pipe running underneath for the hydraulics. I would buy another one!
i have had 5 tractors with 4 different transmissions , My latest tractor is a hydro and i love it . If you are doing lots of plowing then a shuttle is great otherwise go hydro
I operated a Massey Ferguson compact tractor 40 hp with power reverser shuttle shift and I loved it. It's a gear driven tractor with electric shuttle, I have a 52 horsepower massey with regular shuttle, the power reverser is head and shoulders above the regular shuttle, I don't know if the LS has power reverser or not but if not you may want to look at one that does. No need to clutch the power reverser when changing directions. I'm a gear driven tractor fan and have operated a hydrostatic , which I like on a subcompact but not on a tractor I'm going to be doing heavy work with, just my opinion.
I really am just not certain on the shuttle operation. I think the salesman said you don’t have to use the clutch, but it felt like the machine liked it better when I did. It would be easy to mix up the models and options so I need to get more clarification on how that is meant to be operated…
My Kubota MX4700 has a gear-drive transmission. I use it primarily bushhogging and tending to a half-mile gravel driveway with a box blade and landscape rake. If you select low range and 1st gear, and throttle down, you can be very deliberate and precise with the loader operation. It's a matter of some experience and muscle memory as you get used to the controls. I have to agree that blue machine is nice looking!
I sold my green tractor a few years ago and ended up buying an LS. I have been very pleased with mine. LS or TYM is the best bang for your buck. My old JD was gear driven, my LS is hydrostatic, I’ll never go back to gear driven. Loading logs was not an issue with the gear driven, you just shift a lot and have to get used to it. I’d opt for at least a shuttle shift.
I have an MT357 hydro cab for my sawmill operation. I have a small mill (Norwood Lumbermate2000). I deal with logs in the 18 to 28 inch diameter, 8 to 10ft length. I use forks to move and place the logs on the mill. I love the hydrostat for that reason, I am often making small adjustments to the logs, as well as trying to avoid damaging the sawmill. To get an idea of real world lift capacity, my loader is rated to lift 2,700 lbs. Remember though, lift capacity is at the pins. And, it doesn't account for the weight of your implement (forks or grapple). Therefore, the heaviest log I can lift on my pallet forks is about 2,000 lbs.... possibly 2,100 lbs when you factor in the weight of my forks, and how far forward of the pins the weight actually is. You probably know this already, but I wanted to mention it in case you didn't. It sure would be nice to be able to lift 2,700 lbs, but that's only at the pins, and with no implement on the ssqa. Good luck.. I can tell you for sure that LS is the best bang for your buck out there! They are awesome!
I have just made a deal on the 26 hp model with the cab,winters here in Wisconsin are cold,and the heated cab is going to be the ticket when plowing snow on my 1/4 mile driveway.I traded in a 196 hr open station B2601 Kubota.
I looked at both the TYM and LS but found the better pricing for me with TYM. Now, if I had gotten a deal like that with LS, I would have picked the LS. I also didn't need the lift that you do. Just check out the warranty, info. What kind of engine do they have? At the end of the day, it is an investment for you and your family. Unless you trade it in. A tractor should last generations, which is really cool! Good luck on your hunt, Lucas. God bless
As a kid (60 years ago), I learned to drive on a Ford 8N tractor. It was gear driven and up until recently I knew nothing about shuttle driven. Since I am happy with a gear driven tractor, I think that is what I will stay with. Learned how to make it do what I wanted it to do. Stay with what you are comfortable with. You can learn to use a different gear driven, so I would not worry about it.
Where to start. We've had a 45 HP LS for a few years now (XR4145). It is a shuttle shift. Seems to be plenty strong. Don't sweat a regen cycle as it's not a big deal at all. Don't worry about doing fine delicate maneuvering because it's just like learning how to drive a manual xmsn vehicle, second nature in no time. My wife actually prefers the shuttle shift to the hydrostatic system on the TYM. The only issue we've had with it after close to 500 hours was some wiring harness issues due to chafing. Really go thru and make sure you protect any possible chafing points of contact over the entire electrical harness. That's pretty much the same for all tractors but when moving up to ECUs and DPFs and all of the sensors associated with that you'll find out that it can be a nightmare trying to diagnose the myriad of fault codes it can generate. The only other issue is that it can sometimes be a bit difficult to shift from fwd to rev and vice-versa if on a steep incline. It will shift though. You just have to fiddle with it a little bit. One other thing I noticed is you didn't come to a complete stop before shifting the shuttle. That's a big no-no according to my mechanic. I'd definitely load the rears if you can. I think you'll enjoy it and get very good use out of it. As with all tractors, don't treat it like a tank and it should last you for years to come with very few - if any - headaches.
I understand your issues. I have a LS XR3037H which is definitely my go to for my 6’ rototiller and 6’ snow blower just because I have move control and can definitely do a better job than my other gear driven tractors. Yes you do lose hsp at the pto but for intricate work where you really need to be precise I’d recommend the hydrostatic tractor. If you’re out in the field I’d definitely recommend the gear driven tractor.
I have a LS dealer in my town and I’ve never had an issue getting any parts. My tractor is a 2014, I bought it from them and they have never let me down with any kind of service that I can’t handle or parts.
We bought a new LS XG 3140H w/ loader back in 2016. It's been flawless. Never been back to the dealer, haven't had a single issue. We use it for small scale logging, and to load logs on the sawmill. It's 40hp, hydro, with loader capacity of 2189 lbs at the pins, and I wouldn't recommend anything less. We love the hydro for close work, but we used gear tractors before the LS, and they did fine. Just what you get used to.
If the sss also has a 3 range transmission, you'll be just fine. Just put in low range when you're having to "creep up" on something. It works fine. Good luck, and greetings from the Adirondacks
Shuttle Shift all day long. I have a 2018 XR4140 with gear drive. It has proven itself in loader work, lift with a heavy Armstrong Ag grapple, forks, bucket. Gear drive is not inaccurate in moving, loading, placing items. A little stop and start to shift ranges is slower, but a gain in overall fluid change costs, PTO output, and positive engagement of transmission to tires on the ground. No to hydro.
Thanks for weighing in. I don’t have the experience, but I do like the reasons you cite. Especially when considering the 25hp models. Saving the HP for PTO output would help.
For me Hydrostatic transmissions are an absolute godsend for loader work. Can it be done with a gear driven or shuttle shift trans, sure but you will put more wear and tear on it than is necessary. It will give plenty of years of service for your use case, however where they really shine is in single direction work like mowing or plowing/tilling. Hydrostats in turn are better at loader work and not quite as good as those other jobs, but have less downsides in homestead applications my opinion at least. You have to start getting into real farming for a gear transmissions benefits to out weigh a hydrostat. Being able to creep forward/backwards consistently with a hydrostat is also safer and far more predictable for those around you when doing loader work. All that said if someone was just going to use their tractor for 3 point work a shuttle shift is a great option for less. So as with most things it depends haha. As far as the regen equipment on the 30-60 hp tractor ranges they are fairly simple doc filters that are not a huge factor for maintenance. It is when you get into the 75Hp + tractors that need DEF, that emissions really start to be a headache. However that is usually the size you start to get out of homestead and into farm work. P.S. I do love that blue as well
This is a great comment. I tend to agree with your assessment. I’m not necessarily saying I won’t try a gear drive, because my uses really are primarily for hobby and content. Getting the experience with gear drive does hold some value for me there. That part is irrelevant for most so I think you have summed it up exactly right.
I liked your vid and the fact that you are willing to look at different ways to skin the cat of loading logs on your mill. To me though Lucas, the added horsepower comes at a cost of more emission pieces on the tractor that will give you trouble in the future in the form of maintenance and break downs. Stoney Ridge is dealing with it on his low hour TYM, completely dead in the water and he has work to do and cant use his tractor, tractor cant get off idle and no power and all the emission codes flashing on the dash. You do not want that crap.Salesmen can be great but they can also lead you down the road to a cheaper deal because they have a model like a gear drive shuttle shift that requires DEF that they cant move. Stick to your criteria, ie hydrostat and 25 hp with no emission and little to no electronics, I think when it comes to loading the logs and other chores you will be glad you did. Besides you want to teach your up and coming son how to drive this tractor, it be a shame him driving right over the top of that saw mill and out the otherside ooops, just saying.
Hydro if you're doing a significant amount of "loader work" a term everybody throws around; but for me, if you're doing a lot of spreading and smoothing on driveways or landscaping, that's "loader work" and hydro is the better choice. Gear drive in that application is not only a lot of clutching but also a lot of coordinating with the brakes since the tractor will roll with the clutch in, and most driveways and landscaping probably have some slope to them. That's another way to look at it - the flatter your terrain, the more amenable it will be to gear drive. Any maneuvering on rolling terrain, loader or whatever else you're doing, is better with hydro. Regarding logs on the sawmill - presumably you've got a nice flat work pad around the mill and gear drive will work pretty well once you get the touch. You make a good point at the beginning - gear drive is more efficient than hydro. You lose HP thru the pump. On these largest and heaviest of the 25HP class, there's noticeable difference in power to the ground with gear drive. You might see that best in snow removal, where more power to the ground means more speed which equates to a better snow removal job.
Gear drive is great for mowing, bush hogging, etc, hydrostat is much easier to live with for loader work, and more precise. Most folks that are down on hydros are afraid of them because somebody knew someone that bought a cheap mower at "insert box store here" and the transmission went out....tractor hydrostat transmissions hold a lot more fluid, and are built to work with the heavy loads that farming requires. There is a good argument for both, but don't be afraid of either one.
Thanks for the input. I love the simplicity of operating a hydrostat. Part of me wants to try a gear drive simply because I don’t have experience with one. That would be an expensive “test” though.
I've got an LS XR4150 shuttle shift and love it, I do about 10 acres of wildlife food plots old school plowing and discing, I rented a small JD with a hydrostatic trans a year before I bought the LS and I didn't like how it operated during plowing I paid in late 2019 for a 2020 model 29k for a 50 hp, cab, FEL, 4wd
I started out on my Dad's gear-shift tractor back when I was about 12 years old, so maybe I'm a little biased. My first tractor was a gear-shift Mitsubishi and I rarely even thought about it. You get used to the clutch and running it becomes second nature. Now that I have my BX with the hydro, I can honestly say that it makes little difference to me. Given a choice, I'd slightly prefer the gear-shift due to the reliability.
There is a reason most loaders have hydrostatic transmissions. The main downside of purchasing a non mainstream tractor is support and selling it. No one will ever have trouble selling a well known tractor brand. We almost bought a Mahindra tractor in 2021. Fortunately we did not because the local Mahindra dealer is now a TYM dealer.
I have similar concern. Not selling it later, but supporting it later. I have a 30-yr old Ford/NH 1520HST right now (23HP) and I am shopping for a new tractor because I'm 62 and the next tractor will be my last. I don't want a new tractor that will be an orphan in a few years. Thinking Kioti might be the right mix of performance, price, and support down the road.
That extra PTO power would certainly come in handy for implements such as wood chippers, stump grinders, larger mowers and rotary tillers. I don't have personal experience with shuttle shift, but I've seen some videos from dealers stating they get far more shuttle shift transmission repairs than hydrostatic transmissions. I think most dealers would recommend a hydrostatic transmission for loader intensive work. I just did a search on LS MT226HE and found several 2024 listed cash price from 21k to 26k with loader included (probably after cash rebate applied). Also finding the LS MT232HE listings from 24k to 28k with loader cash price. Shopping for a tractor is almost as much fun as getting one. Currently LS is running $3,000 - $3,500 cash rebates on select MT2 models. You could possibly get something in your price range even a little larger. 😉
That’s interesting, my thought would be that the gear drive is a simpler system and would result in fewer repairs, but at this point, they e both been around long enough to have the bigs worked out. Likely depends a lot on the model/machine.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I believe it's because loader intensive work requires much more shifting which tends to wear the clutches out sooner / more often. Agan just from my research not actual experience. Your mileage may differ. 😁
Gear drives are not good for stump grinders, at least not the ones where you have to drive forward to use them. Hydrostatic you can creep at a snails pace while still having the RPMs up for the PTO.
I have an MT 235E. Agree they are a great looking tractor. No regrets on not getting the hydro. Just wish they would make the rims black. I will tell you with 100% certainty mine will lift 1750 lbs (absolute max) on a 48x48 pallet with bags of concrete on it. It will not curl that amount, but it will lift it. Obviously with proper rear ballast. I have a grapple and use mine for logs and splitting. You should have no issues with being precise with the shuttle shift. In fact I use my grapple to set the bigger rounds of heavy oak on my splitter so I don’t have to tilt the splitter to do them on the ground or lift them up and split horizontally.
Yes I would have to say after 85 hours I’ve not been disappointed with the MT 235. I’d have to look back to be sure but I believe the advertised loader capacity is ~2100 lbs range at the pins. Just so I’m not mis communicating, 1750 was just getting it off the ground about a foot to move it around, and like I said, it could not curl that weight out there. If I remember correctly, I could lift a skid to a little over waist high once I was down to 1500 lbs (I was mixing the bags in a portable mixer) but it still would not curl the 1500 lbs. I was lifting oak logs 8’ Long, about 26 dia. Over the side of my dump trailer if I turned my grapple all the way down (like you would dump a bucket) and grab them from the top making the weight close to the tractor vs far out like forks, would be. My grapple is W.R Long and weighs in the 400-500 lb range. All that said, I believe TYM has the highest rated lift capacities these days.
@@Rob.in.Tennessee Yes the tym are crazy. On a 2515h I hooked a crane scale to a tree stump and with 350lb pallet forks on, 5ft off the ground it was able to lift ~2600lbs. I mistakenly lifted off of just one fork and it actually bent the top of the fork frame a bit on 4000lb rated forks. 😆
I just took delivery on an LS MT2 26E, Loader model LL3001 the spec sheets list 1,900 plus # of lift. I would not trade the Hydrostatic drive for more Horsepower and a gear drive. (I also operate Hydrostatic drive snow cats . I started on Standard trans mission snow cats a long time ago, again I would never want to go back,) Also the 25 hp doesn't have a computer or Regen. So far I am very happy although I have only had it a couple of days
I have a geared tractor w/loader and yes you can get use to it and it will work fine for you. But how about when you want one of your sons to hop on it and ease it up while you load or unload something that's why I would stay away from gear drive. Also on mine the most annoying thing is when im bush hogging in 3rd gear and need to back into a spot to cut, reverse gear in all gears are faster, too fast.
That is a big drawback for me. Honestly, Caden rides dirt bikes and uses a clutch and shifts gears so he’s capable, but it just adds another dimension to operating. I don’t think I would be comfortable letting him run it for a while…
Looks like a stout little tractor, but for loader work I would never consider a gear drive. Also, for certain other tasks like a pull behind stump grinder, a gear drive basically wont work or will be very difficult. The 2515h still picks up more weight 10 inches higher. 1500lbs more lift on the 3 point, too.
Not knowing where you're looking for price; Massey rates the lift capacities 19.5 inches out from the pin, vs the LS which is at the pin. While I don't know what exactly the lift capacity is at the pin, I've been looking hard at the 1835M which has a 1,380 lb capacity, 19.5" forward of the pin, to full height, and 1,750 lb capacity, 19.5" forward of the pin, to 59" off the ground. The power shuttle on that is even easier to drive than the synchro shuttle tractors. Another advantage to the shuttle is putting the power to the ground. If you want to spend a little more, you could get a Massey 2605H which doesn't have regen.
Is the front axle on that tractor the same as the higher hp one? That would concern me if it isn’t with a higher capacity loader. Hydro is almost certainly better for you, but shuttles are nice. My old tractor is 12 speed unsynchronized gear with no shuttle, which is a little trickier to work if you aren’t used to it. However, 12 speeds gives me really low creep gear so I can do pretty fine movements without riding the clutch. You’d want to look for that. What is the machines slowest ground speed in first gear. If I bought a new tractor today, it would be hydro or a power shuttle. I like the pulling power of gear, but wouldn’t mind the convenience of a hydro with cruise control for those constant speed applications.
I like the blue too. Man you have some decisions to make. Got me thinking too. Maybe don’t need the hydrostatic. Sure does whine a lot. Gear driven will be quieter. I like the hat too😂
You can definitely get used to gear drive. You can do anything !! How’s your legs?? I was a track runner and a lot of manual trans tractor work can be a leg workout. !! My good friend has chicken legs from an accident when we were younger, he can’t drive manual for more then 30 mins but we were running a deer from the 80s Probly real stiff clutch.
It’s tempting. I’m not lazy. I’ll do a little extra work to save money. I think my main concern is I AM rowdy and that causes me to be rough on things. I’m afraid gear drive might make that worse. Lol
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead 🦾🎯 you definitely can do it. It might have the opposite effect, keep you a little more cautious. I am also ruff on things and like bang for my $. My opinion is more HP allows more capability is worth it until your legs can’t take it anymore.
How is their parts department stocked? Do they have enough stock to fix things as they inevitably break. Talk to the techs, do they seem knowledgeable? I went with the tractor I bought because many of the other manufacturers didn't have service centers close by. As for gear vs hydrostat, I'm sure you'll get use to it the more you operate it.
I can say in my area I had called to price LS and the dealer wouldn't price it. Salesman said I can buy them elsewhere for cheaper and so he wouldn't price it...... odd to me as I want the dealer support, so I said well I'd bring it to you for service and he said you would have to buy from us to get the service from us...... okay, so price the tractor, but he wouldn't! So I had called Kubota, got emailed quotes, called Massey, was emailed quotes, and the closest dealer was 10 minutes away for a New Holland. Really loved the place but I didn't like the tractor as its numbers weren't good like lift and all that. John Deere, well...... a used one 200 hours was another 3K over the price of the new Massey setup same way...... I ended up an hour away buying a Massey GC1725M and sure I didn't get the backhoe (LS pricing with a backhoe could be found for not much more but without the service what good is it if it breaks down) but this GC1725M tractor has really blown me away as far as reliability and its work loads. Really done a lot prior my injury with it and when I'm healed up I plan to get back to it. Amazing what uses the little tractor have but be careful, they aren't as heavy as bigger tractors, but they sure work hard for you! As far as gear driven, I wouldn't be afraid or shy away from one, especially if they met my specs and needs. Big deal today in every field is service and parts. How well can you take care of that machine yourself and what can your dealer do, and how well will they take care of you after sale. Many of the tractors are decent, a person has to get what suits them.
Isn't there some sort of emissions control requirement that kicks in over 25 HP? Hdows that impact performance, price, maintenance, etc? Love this series! I'm looking for my first tractor and appreciate following your research
There is and I don’t like the idea, but I also know that lots of guys are running bigger machines and dealing with it. I’m trying to keep an open mind. The problem is, I may be more undecided after making these videos and talking to everyone. 😂🤣
I have loaded logs for two years on my sawmill with a gear driven tractor. It’s an older one 1986 to be exact. You just have to take your time when loading same as you do if you had a hydrostatic drive. A gear driven tractor is not like a gear driven truck or a car. Were you let out on the clutch and it’s go all at once. Tractors are bigger have more gearing takes a while to get it going so the takeoff is softer. Don’t buy it because it’s blue. I know what excitements all about. Buy it because it’s right for your needs, maybe they have a program where you can try your gear driven one for a while and if you don’t like it go to the hydrostatic drive. I have a 31 hp two cylinder air cooled engine. With 26 hp at the PTO at 540 RPMs. It will run everything I need to run including an 8 inch chipper on the back with hydraulic in feed rollers. Have a good day. Enjoy the process of making decisions.
I have used a manual tractor for years. As far as working around the mill, use the gears to slow the movement for very controlled work. I would not own a hydrostat tractor.
Yeah, guys got by for years using gear drive so I’m not really afraid of one. I mainly know that I’m kind of rambunctious and I think I would be more apt to beat up my sawmill running a gear drive. Maybe not…. 🤷🏼♂️
The only thing I see is about the gear drive. You will be trying to operate your grapple, and that shuttle shift at nearly the same time. Just an observation.
@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead We have a New Holland Boomer 40 and a Workmaster 40. Good little tractors although there have been issues which were dealt with by dealer
You mentioned them having parts in stock. Does that mean the parts are in stock for them to work on your tractor or does it mean they're in stock so you can buy and work on your own tractor? I heard LS didn't like owners working on their own tractors
I’ve heard a lot of things. I’ll not speculate on what’s true. I’m gathering information. I only have first hand experience with Kubota and they are hard to beat. Hard to afford, but hard to beat… I’m so undecided it’s scary. Lol
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I understand. It's something I would ask them. If a branch punctures the grille, radiator, fan and maybe even takes out your alternator. I'd asked them can I buy these parts and fix myself
Dont you have to deal with the emissions crap on anything over 25HP? U can still get a TYM 2515 that lifts more and costs less. Also, for your price point, you may consider a used skid steer or track steer. They can move alot, and a used one can be had right around 20k.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead If you do go with that one, Id tell them you want to see it lift 2000lbs. Have them toss some bags of pellets on a pallet till theres a ton and see if it can lift it.
@@outdoors-fun Another guy posted he lifted a pallet of 1750lbs of concrete. It lifted it but couldnt tilt it. Thats good considering the rated capcity is at the pivot pin.
Gear drive is not a good idea for what you're doing. I saved $1000 on my TYM474 going with gear drive. I very much regret that choice. I do mostly loader work and you just can't beat the precision of hydrostat.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead oh I'd love to save the money, but the loss of precision is a deterrent for me. I can drive the shuttle shift just fine so it's not a competence thing, and not having that hydrostat whine is great, (especially in my cab tractor) but it's just not as precise. When I'm really working the tractor like I would a hydro, my hip gets to hurting from using the clutch. Maybe that's a TYM thing, I can't say because it's the only shuttle shift I've ever used. I intend to sell mine eventually and pick up a 574 hydrostat.
Ls I have xr 4040 always broke down and no hard use no warranty now never fixed the problems under warranty just keep it going now it my problems 2800 last winter when front wheel came off in December they the dealer did front end service for a steer issues
Frontloader tractors that are gear driven are clutch eaters...I would never buy a tractor that I intended to use for frontloader work that was not hydrostat driven.
I just don't think I could look myself in the mirror if had bought a Korean or China tractor, whatever they are. Everyone has a budget and an opinion. I get that, and whoever earned the money that is paying for it has the only opinion that matters, not me or anyone else.
What did you buy? The thing is, there isn’t an American made option. None. Most of the brands are South Korean. Kubota is a Japanese company. Deere is a US brand, but they are using parts from all over the world and sending jobs to Mexico. 🤷🏼♂️ Kinda like you said, we all gotta make our own decisions.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I own 2 Kubotas. Yes, they are Japanese made and in my opinion a step above any Korean made tractor. Yes, I have ran both and if given the chance you should too, or maybe you have. The smoothness of the hydraulics under load on the Kubotas compared to Kioti or LS in my opinion is night and day better. The fit and finish are without question better on the Kubota. Long term reliability and value are also in favor of the Kubota. Lift capacity for the money may favor the "off-brands" but the old saying "you get what you pay for" still rings true today. I have never had regret when buying quality over value. The regret of a poor choice lingers long after the feeling of saving money fades.
If you purchase anything other than JD or Kubota, you're buying China, Taiwan or Vietnam junk that cant be serviced 10yrs down the road and will have next to ZERO resell value. Good Luck !!
I won’t buy a John Deere. Kubota definitely is a contender. None of the other brands I’ve reviewed so far are made in any of the places you mentioned. Resale value is a concern with some…
Just wondering why you say you want buy a JD, price, not near by, etc. You now I didn't go with a JD because they kept jacking the price up, even though they were less than 2 miles from me, I went to the next county over to buy my BX23S because they were $10,000 less.
@@davidpace3121 When I was shopping for my subcompact tractor, not only were they a LOT more expensive, but when I called the dealer to ask questions, they just didn't care. I think sometimes companies get too big for their britches and think they are beyond having to worry about what customers think. That could have been a local issue, but it turned me off. I've not even looked at their prices or specs...just don't care.
@@davidpace3121 it just kinda turns you off. 🤷🏼♂️ I think if I thought their prices were competitive I might just try another dealer, but I don’t really…
in my experience the regen, as hard as you run a tractor, it probably wont be an issue. its when you do a lot of low RPM running that creates the problem. that said, if you move into a bigger HP tractor, you might not or nedd to run it as hard as you do the kubota. and, being a gearhead(thats a compliment) and doing most of your own service, all of that emissions JUNK can go away(shhhhhhh)lol. i know how this story ends and im glad that you ended up with the tym
To the people here that are commenting about where this tractor is made and touting the green and orange because they're made in the United States remember this,, most of the large industrial farming tractors made by the green company are indeed made in the USA, however much of their smaller lines come from all over the world or they use parts sourced from all over the world. I have a Kubota and it was manufactured in Georgia, but it has a Japanese engine and other parts made in Japan because Kubota is a Japanese company. The same is true for most of the other color tractors, blue, red, green, orange etc. just like so-called American cars and trucks, most tractors anymore have parts sourced from all over the world no matter where they are manufactured.
Exactly
I am partial to Kioti for this reason - they make the WHOLE tractor inhouse. To my thinking, this seems like it could help with parts availability down the road.
@@stephenoffiler8024 heard Kioti tractors are solid, but this is from google "Kioti tractors are manufactured by Daedong, a South Korean company that specializes in agricultural machinery. Daedong is also one of the world's largest steel manufacturers and supplies products to other major brands, including Bobcat, Mahindra, MCCormick, and Cub Cadet."
So in house? Yes?....
Interesting information. I had looked at LS a few years ago. I love manual transmission vehicles but for my purposes of loader and grapple work, everyone has talked me into the hydrostatic. Great series!
Yeah, I like driving a stick. I am thinking everyone is convincing me not to get the gear drive for the work I’ll be doing though…. I’m enjoying the search!
I have 16 speed mostly cheaper to repair and work on
I own an LS tractor, it is G3033H and it's 10 years old. Only thing that I had to fix was 2 new front tires because of dry rot, while living in Florida and one little pipe running underneath for the hydraulics. I would buy another one!
i have had 5 tractors with 4 different transmissions , My latest tractor is a hydro and i love it . If you are doing lots of plowing then a shuttle is great otherwise go hydro
You would look good in blue! 💙
Haha. It does match our Kentucky home colors! 😊🤷🏼♂️🏇💙
I operated a Massey Ferguson compact tractor 40 hp with power reverser shuttle shift and I loved it. It's a gear driven tractor with electric shuttle, I have a 52 horsepower massey with regular shuttle, the power reverser is head and shoulders above the regular shuttle, I don't know if the LS has power reverser or not but if not you may want to look at one that does. No need to clutch the power reverser when changing directions. I'm a gear driven tractor fan and have operated a hydrostatic , which I like on a subcompact but not on a tractor I'm going to be doing heavy work with, just my opinion.
I really am just not certain on the shuttle operation. I think the salesman said you don’t have to use the clutch, but it felt like the machine liked it better when I did. It would be easy to mix up the models and options so I need to get more clarification on how that is meant to be operated…
My Kubota MX4700 has a gear-drive transmission. I use it primarily bushhogging and tending to a half-mile gravel driveway with a box blade and landscape rake. If you select low range and 1st gear, and throttle down, you can be very deliberate and precise with the loader operation. It's a matter of some experience and muscle memory as you get used to the controls. I have to agree that blue machine is nice looking!
Lots to weigh in the decision for sure!
I have a m4700. A little older but same, 1st gear in low gear throttled down it's slow. Some models even have a creep gear that's even lower than low.
I sold my green tractor a few years ago and ended up buying an LS. I have been very pleased with mine. LS or TYM is the best bang for your buck. My old JD was gear driven, my LS is hydrostatic, I’ll never go back to gear driven. Loading logs was not an issue with the gear driven, you just shift a lot and have to get used to it. I’d opt for at least a shuttle shift.
Thanks
I have an MT357 hydro cab for my sawmill operation. I have a small mill (Norwood Lumbermate2000). I deal with logs in the 18 to 28 inch diameter, 8 to 10ft length. I use forks to move and place the logs on the mill. I love the hydrostat for that reason, I am often making small adjustments to the logs, as well as trying to avoid damaging the sawmill. To get an idea of real world lift capacity, my loader is rated to lift 2,700 lbs. Remember though, lift capacity is at the pins. And, it doesn't account for the weight of your implement (forks or grapple). Therefore, the heaviest log I can lift on my pallet forks is about 2,000 lbs.... possibly 2,100 lbs when you factor in the weight of my forks, and how far forward of the pins the weight actually is. You probably know this already, but I wanted to mention it in case you didn't. It sure would be nice to be able to lift 2,700 lbs, but that's only at the pins, and with no implement on the ssqa. Good luck.. I can tell you for sure that LS is the best bang for your buck out there! They are awesome!
Great info. Thanks for sharing!
I have just made a deal on the 26 hp model with the cab,winters here in Wisconsin are cold,and the heated cab is going to be the ticket when plowing snow on my 1/4 mile driveway.I traded in a 196 hr open station B2601 Kubota.
I looked at both the TYM and LS but found the better pricing for me with TYM. Now, if I had gotten a deal like that with LS, I would have picked the LS. I also didn't need the lift that you do. Just check out the warranty, info. What kind of engine do they have? At the end of the day, it is an investment for you and your family. Unless you trade it in. A tractor should last generations, which is really cool! Good luck on your hunt, Lucas. God bless
Good thoughts! Thanks for chiming in.
As a kid (60 years ago), I learned to drive on a Ford 8N tractor. It was gear driven and up until recently I knew nothing about shuttle driven. Since I am happy with a gear driven tractor, I think that is what I will stay with. Learned how to make it do what I wanted it to do. Stay with what you are comfortable with. You can learn to use a different gear driven, so I would not worry about it.
I understand that! 👊
Where to start. We've had a 45 HP LS for a few years now (XR4145). It is a shuttle shift. Seems to be plenty strong. Don't sweat a regen cycle as it's not a big deal at all. Don't worry about doing fine delicate maneuvering because it's just like learning how to drive a manual xmsn vehicle, second nature in no time. My wife actually prefers the shuttle shift to the hydrostatic system on the TYM. The only issue we've had with it after close to 500 hours was some wiring harness issues due to chafing. Really go thru and make sure you protect any possible chafing points of contact over the entire electrical harness. That's pretty much the same for all tractors but when moving up to ECUs and DPFs and all of the sensors associated with that you'll find out that it can be a nightmare trying to diagnose the myriad of fault codes it can generate. The only other issue is that it can sometimes be a bit difficult to shift from fwd to rev and vice-versa if on a steep incline. It will shift though. You just have to fiddle with it a little bit. One other thing I noticed is you didn't come to a complete stop before shifting the shuttle. That's a big no-no according to my mechanic. I'd definitely load the rears if you can. I think you'll enjoy it and get very good use out of it. As with all tractors, don't treat it like a tank and it should last you for years to come with very few - if any - headaches.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I understand your issues. I have a LS XR3037H which is definitely my go to for my 6’ rototiller and 6’ snow blower just because I have move control and can definitely do a better job than my other gear driven tractors. Yes you do lose hsp at the pto but for intricate work where you really need to be precise I’d recommend the hydrostatic tractor. If you’re out in the field I’d definitely recommend the gear driven tractor.
I have a LS dealer in my town and I’ve never had an issue getting any parts. My tractor is a 2014, I bought it from them and they have never let me down with any kind of service that I can’t handle or parts.
Great comments
We bought a new LS XG 3140H w/ loader back in 2016. It's been flawless. Never been back to the dealer, haven't had a single issue. We use it for small scale logging, and to load logs on the sawmill.
It's 40hp, hydro, with loader capacity of 2189 lbs at the pins, and I wouldn't recommend anything less.
We love the hydro for close work, but we used gear tractors before the LS, and they did fine. Just what you get used to.
Great info! Thanks for sharing your experience!
You look good driving a blue tractor Lucas 👍👍
Thanks, CJ.
Love my LS gear drive unit. Service was excellent too.
If the sss also has a 3 range transmission, you'll be just fine. Just put in low range when you're having to "creep up" on something. It works fine. Good luck, and greetings from the Adirondacks
Shuttle Shift all day long. I have a 2018 XR4140 with gear drive. It has proven itself in loader work, lift with a heavy Armstrong Ag grapple, forks, bucket.
Gear drive is not inaccurate in moving, loading, placing items. A little stop and start to shift ranges is slower, but a gain in overall fluid change costs, PTO output, and positive engagement of transmission to tires on the ground. No to hydro.
Thanks for weighing in. I don’t have the experience, but I do like the reasons you cite. Especially when considering the 25hp models. Saving the HP for PTO output would help.
@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I suggest buying UP, in terms of size and horsepower, for all the implements you don't yet have, but will!
For me Hydrostatic transmissions are an absolute godsend for loader work. Can it be done with a gear driven or shuttle shift trans, sure but you will put more wear and tear on it than is necessary. It will give plenty of years of service for your use case, however where they really shine is in single direction work like mowing or plowing/tilling. Hydrostats in turn are better at loader work and not quite as good as those other jobs, but have less downsides in homestead applications my opinion at least. You have to start getting into real farming for a gear transmissions benefits to out weigh a hydrostat. Being able to creep forward/backwards consistently with a hydrostat is also safer and far more predictable for those around you when doing loader work. All that said if someone was just going to use their tractor for 3 point work a shuttle shift is a great option for less. So as with most things it depends haha.
As far as the regen equipment on the 30-60 hp tractor ranges they are fairly simple doc filters that are not a huge factor for maintenance. It is when you get into the 75Hp + tractors that need DEF, that emissions really start to be a headache. However that is usually the size you start to get out of homestead and into farm work.
P.S. I do love that blue as well
This is a great comment. I tend to agree with your assessment.
I’m not necessarily saying I won’t try a gear drive, because my uses really are primarily for hobby and content. Getting the experience with gear drive does hold some value for me there. That part is irrelevant for most so I think you have summed it up exactly right.
I liked your vid and the fact that you are willing to look at different ways to skin the cat of loading logs on your mill. To me though Lucas, the added horsepower comes at a cost of more emission pieces on the tractor that will give you trouble in the future in the form of maintenance and break downs. Stoney Ridge is dealing with it on his low hour TYM, completely dead in the water and he has work to do and cant use his tractor, tractor cant get off idle and no power and all the emission codes flashing on the dash. You do not want that crap.Salesmen can be great but they can also lead you down the road to a cheaper deal because they have a model like a gear drive shuttle shift that requires DEF that they cant move. Stick to your criteria, ie hydrostat and 25 hp with no emission and little to no electronics, I think when it comes to loading the logs and other chores you will be glad you did. Besides you want to teach your up and coming son how to drive this tractor, it be a shame him driving right over the top of that saw mill and out the otherside ooops, just saying.
lol. I can see that happening! 😂
You make good points! Thanks for the comment. 👊
I have a kubota L3400 Works real good and have moved some nice sizes trees around with it
Shuttle shifts are great. We have always has gear driven tractors. The 2515 is my 1st hydrostatic.
Thats a nice looking machine
I feel like I could easily get used to a shuttle shift. Man, decisions are tough for me. 😂🤣
Hydro if you're doing a significant amount of "loader work" a term everybody throws around; but for me, if you're doing a lot of spreading and smoothing on driveways or landscaping, that's "loader work" and hydro is the better choice. Gear drive in that application is not only a lot of clutching but also a lot of coordinating with the brakes since the tractor will roll with the clutch in, and most driveways and landscaping probably have some slope to them. That's another way to look at it - the flatter your terrain, the more amenable it will be to gear drive. Any maneuvering on rolling terrain, loader or whatever else you're doing, is better with hydro. Regarding logs on the sawmill - presumably you've got a nice flat work pad around the mill and gear drive will work pretty well once you get the touch. You make a good point at the beginning - gear drive is more efficient than hydro. You lose HP thru the pump. On these largest and heaviest of the 25HP class, there's noticeable difference in power to the ground with gear drive. You might see that best in snow removal, where more power to the ground means more speed which equates to a better snow removal job.
Gear drive is great for mowing, bush hogging, etc, hydrostat is much easier to live with for loader work, and more precise. Most folks that are down on hydros are afraid of them because somebody knew someone that bought a cheap mower at "insert box store here" and the transmission went out....tractor hydrostat transmissions hold a lot more fluid, and are built to work with the heavy loads that farming requires. There is a good argument for both, but don't be afraid of either one.
Thanks for the input. I love the simplicity of operating a hydrostat. Part of me wants to try a gear drive simply because I don’t have experience with one. That would be an expensive “test” though.
I've got an LS XR4150 shuttle shift and love it, I do about 10 acres of wildlife food plots old school plowing and discing, I rented a small JD with a hydrostatic trans a year before I bought the LS and I didn't like how it operated during plowing I paid in late 2019 for a 2020 model 29k for a 50 hp, cab, FEL, 4wd
I bought a LS sub Compact tractor TBL for my 10 acure property because of cost and features.
I'm 100% satisfied with my Sub Compact LS 25s TBL
Thanks for commenting! I really want to hear from more experienced LS owners. I need to trust them before I’m willing to pull the trigger. 👊
The shuttle shift works fine , 35 is A very good size
I started out on my Dad's gear-shift tractor back when I was about 12 years old, so maybe I'm a little biased. My first tractor was a gear-shift Mitsubishi and I rarely even thought about it. You get used to the clutch and running it becomes second nature. Now that I have my BX with the hydro, I can honestly say that it makes little difference to me. Given a choice, I'd slightly prefer the gear-shift due to the reliability.
There is a reason most loaders have hydrostatic transmissions.
The main downside of purchasing a non mainstream tractor is support and selling it. No one will ever have trouble selling a well known tractor brand. We almost bought a Mahindra tractor in 2021. Fortunately we did not because the local Mahindra dealer is now a TYM dealer.
I have similar concern. Not selling it later, but supporting it later. I have a 30-yr old Ford/NH 1520HST right now (23HP) and I am shopping for a new tractor because I'm 62 and the next tractor will be my last. I don't want a new tractor that will be an orphan in a few years. Thinking Kioti might be the right mix of performance, price, and support down the road.
Hello!! How long for warranty?
That extra PTO power would certainly come in handy for implements such as wood chippers, stump grinders, larger mowers and rotary tillers. I don't have personal experience with shuttle shift, but I've seen some videos from dealers stating they get far more shuttle shift transmission repairs than hydrostatic transmissions. I think most dealers would recommend a hydrostatic transmission for loader intensive work. I just did a search on LS MT226HE and found several 2024 listed cash price from 21k to 26k with loader included (probably after cash rebate applied). Also finding the LS MT232HE listings from 24k to 28k with loader cash price. Shopping for a tractor is almost as much fun as getting one. Currently LS is running $3,000 - $3,500 cash rebates on select MT2 models. You could possibly get something in your price range even a little larger. 😉
That’s interesting, my thought would be that the gear drive is a simpler system and would result in fewer repairs, but at this point, they e both been around long enough to have the bigs worked out. Likely depends a lot on the model/machine.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I believe it's because loader intensive work requires much more shifting which tends to wear the clutches out sooner / more often. Agan just from my research not actual experience. Your mileage may differ. 😁
Gear drives are not good for stump grinders, at least not the ones where you have to drive forward to use them. Hydrostatic you can creep at a snails pace while still having the RPMs up for the PTO.
I have an MT 235E.
Agree they are a great looking tractor. No regrets on not getting the hydro. Just wish they would make the rims black.
I will tell you with 100% certainty mine will lift 1750 lbs (absolute max) on a 48x48 pallet with bags of concrete on it. It will not curl that amount, but it will lift it. Obviously with proper rear ballast.
I have a grapple and use mine for logs and splitting. You should have no issues with being precise with the shuttle shift. In fact I use my grapple to set the bigger rounds of heavy oak on my splitter so I don’t have to tilt the splitter to do them on the ground or lift them up and split horizontally.
1750 spread out on a pallet is really impressive.
Thats quite good considering the rated weight is at the pivot pin, possibly with no attachment. A set of forks is ~300lbs.
Yes I would have to say after 85 hours I’ve not been disappointed with the MT 235.
I’d have to look back to be sure but I believe the advertised loader capacity is ~2100 lbs range at the pins.
Just so I’m not mis communicating, 1750 was just getting it off the ground about a foot to move it around, and like I said, it could not curl that weight out there. If I remember correctly, I could lift a skid to a little over waist high once I was down to 1500 lbs (I was mixing the bags in a portable mixer) but it still would not curl the 1500 lbs.
I was lifting oak logs 8’ Long, about 26 dia. Over the side of my dump trailer if I turned my grapple all the way down (like you would dump a bucket) and grab them from the top making the weight close to the tractor vs far out like forks, would be. My grapple is W.R Long and weighs in the 400-500 lb range.
All that said, I believe TYM has the highest rated lift capacities these days.
@@Rob.in.Tennessee Yes the tym are crazy. On a 2515h I hooked a crane scale to a tree stump and with 350lb pallet forks on, 5ft off the ground it was able to lift ~2600lbs. I mistakenly lifted off of just one fork and it actually bent the top of the fork frame a bit on 4000lb rated forks. 😆
I just took delivery on an LS MT2 26E, Loader model LL3001 the spec sheets list 1,900 plus # of lift. I would not trade the Hydrostatic drive for more Horsepower and a gear drive. (I also operate Hydrostatic drive snow cats . I started on Standard trans mission snow cats a long time ago, again I would never want to go back,) Also the 25 hp doesn't have a computer or Regen. So far I am very happy although I have only had it a couple of days
Congrats! That’s a nice machine!
I have a geared tractor w/loader and yes you can get use to it and it will work fine for you. But how about when you want one of your sons to hop on it and ease it up while you load or unload something that's why I would stay away from gear drive. Also on mine the most annoying thing is when im bush hogging in 3rd gear and need to back into a spot to cut, reverse gear in all gears are faster, too fast.
That is a big drawback for me. Honestly, Caden rides dirt bikes and uses a clutch and shifts gears so he’s capable, but it just adds another dimension to operating. I don’t think I would be comfortable letting him run it for a while…
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead another way to look at it is, kids learn FAST, and running a gear-driven tractor sounds like a valuable life skill to me...
Looks like a stout little tractor, but for loader work I would never consider a gear drive. Also, for certain other tasks like a pull behind stump grinder, a gear drive basically wont work or will be very difficult. The 2515h still picks up more weight 10 inches higher. 1500lbs more lift on the 3 point, too.
Lots of folks agree with you. I may as well…
You lost me at gear drive! Tractor Hard! 🚜💪!
At least share why!!! 😂
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead Ain't nobody got time for shifting gears.
Not knowing where you're looking for price; Massey rates the lift capacities 19.5 inches out from the pin, vs the LS which is at the pin. While I don't know what exactly the lift capacity is at the pin, I've been looking hard at the 1835M which has a 1,380 lb capacity, 19.5" forward of the pin, to full height, and 1,750 lb capacity, 19.5" forward of the pin, to 59" off the ground. The power shuttle on that is even easier to drive than the synchro shuttle tractors. Another advantage to the shuttle is putting the power to the ground. If you want to spend a little more, you could get a Massey 2605H which doesn't have regen.
Is the front axle on that tractor the same as the higher hp one? That would concern me if it isn’t with a higher capacity loader. Hydro is almost certainly better for you, but shuttles are nice. My old tractor is 12 speed unsynchronized gear with no shuttle, which is a little trickier to work if you aren’t used to it. However, 12 speeds gives me really low creep gear so I can do pretty fine movements without riding the clutch. You’d want to look for that. What is the machines slowest ground speed in first gear. If I bought a new tractor today, it would be hydro or a power shuttle. I like the pulling power of gear, but wouldn’t mind the convenience of a hydro with cruise control for those constant speed applications.
I believe the axle is the same…I will keep an eye on the gearing. Thanks for the tips.
I like the blue too. Man you have some decisions to make. Got me thinking too. Maybe don’t need the hydrostatic. Sure does whine a lot. Gear driven will be quieter. I like the hat too😂
I try to get a hat everywhere I go. Although, TYM didn’t give me a hat. 😂🤷🏼♂️ I wonder if that will affect my decision? 🤔
I believe the fuel economy will be a lot better than hydro
I have a hydro now, but wish I had the shuttel shift back
What I hear from both you and brock is customer service even after the sale is a big deal. I agree
It really is. That is weighing heavily in my decision…
You can definitely get used to gear drive. You can do anything !! How’s your legs?? I was a track runner and a lot of manual trans tractor work can be a leg workout. !! My good friend has chicken legs from an accident when we were younger, he can’t drive manual for more then 30 mins but we were running a deer from the 80s Probly real stiff clutch.
It’s tempting. I’m not lazy. I’ll do a little extra work to save money. I think my main concern is I AM rowdy and that causes me to be rough on things. I’m afraid gear drive might make that worse. Lol
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead 🦾🎯 you definitely can do it. It might have the opposite effect, keep you a little more cautious. I am also ruff on things and like bang for my $. My opinion is more HP allows more capability is worth it until your legs can’t take it anymore.
How is their parts department stocked? Do they have enough stock to fix things as they inevitably break. Talk to the techs, do they seem knowledgeable? I went with the tractor I bought because many of the other manufacturers didn't have service centers close by. As for gear vs hydrostat, I'm sure you'll get use to it the more you operate it.
I can say in my area I had called to price LS and the dealer wouldn't price it. Salesman said I can buy them elsewhere for cheaper and so he wouldn't price it...... odd to me as I want the dealer support, so I said well I'd bring it to you for service and he said you would have to buy from us to get the service from us...... okay, so price the tractor, but he wouldn't!
So I had called Kubota, got emailed quotes, called Massey, was emailed quotes, and the closest dealer was 10 minutes away for a New Holland. Really loved the place but I didn't like the tractor as its numbers weren't good like lift and all that.
John Deere, well...... a used one 200 hours was another 3K over the price of the new Massey setup same way......
I ended up an hour away buying a Massey GC1725M and sure I didn't get the backhoe (LS pricing with a backhoe could be found for not much more but without the service what good is it if it breaks down) but this GC1725M tractor has really blown me away as far as reliability and its work loads. Really done a lot prior my injury with it and when I'm healed up I plan to get back to it.
Amazing what uses the little tractor have but be careful, they aren't as heavy as bigger tractors, but they sure work hard for you!
As far as gear driven, I wouldn't be afraid or shy away from one, especially if they met my specs and needs. Big deal today in every field is service and parts. How well can you take care of that machine yourself and what can your dealer do, and how well will they take care of you after sale.
Many of the tractors are decent, a person has to get what suits them.
Thanks for sharing your story. I don’t blame you on your choice. Sounds like the appropriate response.
Isn't there some sort of emissions control requirement that kicks in over 25 HP? Hdows that impact performance, price, maintenance, etc?
Love this series! I'm looking for my first tractor and appreciate following your research
There is and I don’t like the idea, but I also know that lots of guys are running bigger machines and dealing with it. I’m trying to keep an open mind.
The problem is, I may be more undecided after making these videos and talking to everyone. 😂🤣
I have loaded logs for two years on my sawmill with a gear driven tractor. It’s an older one 1986 to be exact. You just have to take your time when loading same as you do if you had a hydrostatic drive. A gear driven tractor is not like a gear driven truck or a car. Were you let out on the clutch and it’s go all at once. Tractors are bigger have more gearing takes a while to get it going so the takeoff is softer. Don’t buy it because it’s blue. I know what excitements all about. Buy it because it’s right for your needs, maybe they have a program where you can try your gear driven one for a while and if you don’t like it go to the hydrostatic drive. I have a 31 hp two cylinder air cooled engine. With 26 hp at the PTO at 540 RPMs. It will run everything I need to run including an 8 inch chipper on the back with hydraulic in feed rollers. Have a good day. Enjoy the process of making decisions.
I hate making decisions. The more I learn the harder it gets. 😂🤣
I have used a manual tractor for years. As far as working around the mill, use the gears to slow the movement for very controlled work. I would not own a hydrostat tractor.
I have a gear driven MT468. No issues for me but I’ve never driven a hydrostatic tractor either. 😂.
Yeah, guys got by for years using gear drive so I’m not really afraid of one. I mainly know that I’m kind of rambunctious and I think I would be more apt to beat up my sawmill running a gear drive. Maybe not…. 🤷🏼♂️
Are you trading Kubota in or keeping that with all your attachments
I’m keeping the Kubota.
If you’re loading logs, you are going to want a hydrostatic drive
The only thing I see is about the gear drive. You will be trying to operate your grapple, and that shuttle shift at nearly the same time. Just an observation.
That is a good point
LS tractors and New Holland tractors look very similar in design
LS Makes at least some of the smaller New Holland tractors. The Boomer 55 for example is an LS tractor…
@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead We have a New Holland Boomer 40 and a Workmaster 40. Good little tractors although there have been issues which were dealt with by dealer
More Horsepower, PTO power and frontend loader lift. That's a no brainer
You mentioned them having parts in stock. Does that mean the parts are in stock for them to work on your tractor or does it mean they're in stock so you can buy and work on your own tractor? I heard LS didn't like owners working on their own tractors
I’ve heard a lot of things. I’ll not speculate on what’s true. I’m gathering information. I only have first hand experience with Kubota and they are hard to beat. Hard to afford, but hard to beat… I’m so undecided it’s scary. Lol
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I understand. It's something I would ask them. If a branch punctures the grille, radiator, fan and maybe even takes out your alternator. I'd asked them can I buy these parts and fix myself
Don't recommend a gear driven transmission for doing alot of loader work hydrostatic the way to go
Dont you have to deal with the emissions crap on anything over 25HP? U can still get a TYM 2515 that lifts more and costs less. Also, for your price point, you may consider a used skid steer or track steer. They can move alot, and a used one can be had right around 20k.
That is correct. I don’t really think the emissions are a major factor in the under 75hp tractors, but it is a factor…
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead If you do go with that one, Id tell them you want to see it lift 2000lbs. Have them toss some bags of pellets on a pallet till theres a ton and see if it can lift it.
@@outdoors-fun Another guy posted he lifted a pallet of 1750lbs of concrete. It lifted it but couldnt tilt it. Thats good considering the rated capcity is at the pivot pin.
@@Jtwizzle I saw that, but he didn't specify if he had the other loader that lifted less.
@@outdoors-fun He said its the 2100lb one.
The E series LS tractor is the economy model, with less features
You already have a gimme ls hat
I got that hat at the National Farm Machinery Show I think…
Gear drive is not a good idea for what you're doing. I saved $1000 on my TYM474 going with gear drive. I very much regret that choice. I do mostly loader work and you just can't beat the precision of hydrostat.
Thanks for sharing. So it seems like on most models now the savings is more like $3k would you be happier if you had saved that much? 🤷🏼♂️
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead oh I'd love to save the money, but the loss of precision is a deterrent for me. I can drive the shuttle shift just fine so it's not a competence thing, and not having that hydrostat whine is great, (especially in my cab tractor) but it's just not as precise. When I'm really working the tractor like I would a hydro, my hip gets to hurting from using the clutch. Maybe that's a TYM thing, I can't say because it's the only shuttle shift I've ever used. I intend to sell mine eventually and pick up a 574 hydrostat.
@@BuddyG54 thanks for the honest feedback. 👊
Ls makes the smaller newfound tractors
Ls I have xr 4040 always broke down and no hard use no warranty now never fixed the problems under warranty just keep it going now it my problems 2800 last winter when front wheel came off in December they the dealer did front end service for a steer issues
Frontloader tractors that are gear driven are clutch eaters...I would never buy a tractor that I intended to use for frontloader work that was not hydrostat driven.
That’s good information. Thanks for the comment!
I just don't think I could look myself in the mirror if had bought a Korean or China tractor, whatever they are. Everyone has a budget and an opinion. I get that, and whoever earned the money that is paying for it has the only opinion that matters, not me or anyone else.
What did you buy? The thing is, there isn’t an American made option. None. Most of the brands are South Korean. Kubota is a Japanese company. Deere is a US brand, but they are using parts from all over the world and sending jobs to Mexico. 🤷🏼♂️ Kinda like you said, we all gotta make our own decisions.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I own 2 Kubotas. Yes, they are Japanese made and in my opinion a step above any Korean made tractor. Yes, I have ran both and if given the chance you should too, or maybe you have. The smoothness of the hydraulics under load on the Kubotas compared to Kioti or LS in my opinion is night and day better. The fit and finish are without question better on the Kubota. Long term reliability and value are also in favor of the Kubota. Lift capacity for the money may favor the "off-brands" but the old saying "you get what you pay for" still rings true today. I have never had regret when buying quality over value. The regret of a poor choice lingers long after the feeling of saving money fades.
Gear driven way better
John Deere is gradually being dismissed.
Wouldn’t even consider one…
Wouldn’t even consider one…
If you purchase anything other than JD or Kubota, you're buying China, Taiwan or Vietnam junk that cant be serviced 10yrs down the road and will have next to ZERO resell value. Good Luck !!
I won’t buy a John Deere. Kubota definitely is a contender. None of the other brands I’ve reviewed so far are made in any of the places you mentioned. Resale value is a concern with some…
Just wondering why you say you want buy a JD, price, not near by, etc. You now I didn't go with a JD because they kept jacking the price up, even though they were less than 2 miles from me, I went to the next county over to buy my BX23S because they were $10,000 less.
@@davidpace3121 When I was shopping for my subcompact tractor, not only were they a LOT more expensive, but when I called the dealer to ask questions, they just didn't care. I think sometimes companies get too big for their britches and think they are beyond having to worry about what customers think. That could have been a local issue, but it turned me off. I've not even looked at their prices or specs...just don't care.
Yeah I got the same feeling at a different Kubota dealer, when I was looking to upgrade my Zero turn mower.
@@davidpace3121 it just kinda turns you off. 🤷🏼♂️ I think if I thought their prices were competitive I might just try another dealer, but I don’t really…
in my experience the regen, as hard as you run a tractor, it probably wont be an issue. its when you do a lot of low RPM running that creates the problem. that said, if you move into a bigger HP tractor, you might not or nedd to run it as hard as you do the kubota. and, being a gearhead(thats a compliment) and doing most of your own service, all of that emissions JUNK can go away(shhhhhhh)lol. i know how this story ends and im glad that you ended up with the tym