Kohler Command Blown Head Gasket Repair
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- How to replace the head gasket on a single cylinder Kohler Command Engine.
Head Gasket: Kohler 12-041-10-S Head Gasket
Exhaust Gasket: John Deere Original Equipment Gasket #M92365
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good video....just an fyi for those doing this at home 1. a flat piece of 2x4 on top of valve cover and a tap with mallet is much better than using a screwdriver to pry! 2. do NOT use so much gasket sealant when reinstalling valve cover, 1/16" bead is proper
i think this is the last of your old videos i have watched as yet...now ive watched them all...we need more lol
Mu favorite channel on YT. I don’t even work on stuff. Just satisfying to watch. Thanks for the content.
Very helpful video, especially torque values. I also encourage others to check cooling fins. My CV15S ran hot one spring and I discovered a family of mice had set up housekeeping. They also chewed the coil wire, I guess I was lucky not to have had a fire. I keep my mower in an outside shed.
One time I bought three snapper rear engine mowers cheap for parts they all had blown engines I checked them and they all had mouse nests under engine shruud
You should run a tap into those exhaust manifold threads.
Before re-installing, put a bit of ANTISIEZE on the bolts.
I’ve always had good luck with Kohler engines!
Some of the lawn tractors I get free from our town's transfer station cost a lot of money but had zero maintenance done like the JD 105 I'm currently bringing back. The deck mounts had broken off from the vibration caused by loose blades. It only has 198 hours on it.
Good instructional video on this head gasket replacement, you made it very easy for the average DIYr to follow along. I have this exact engine on my Snapper ZT18440kh mower and noticed fumes coming out of the oil dipstick tube recently so may be doing this procedure myself. Looks pretty straight forward from your video; glad you took all the “re-torque” guess work out of the procedure, one less thing to look up online:-) This is the first small engine I have come across in a long time that has self adjusting valves.
This is the only one with hydraulic lifters that I have seen. Not all models of this engine have them.
When you first pulled off the cooling tins I expected to see a mouse nest under the tins, then as the video ran along and you said the fins were filled with grass clippings it all made sense to me, that inadequate cooling was the culprit, just that it had already been cleaned. I drove up a very steep road with my pentastar and it finally overheated and I immediately stopped and came home before any damage occurred. I had replaced the thermostat last spring but it was an aftermarket job and cracked while installing it. Must get another.
Great Video, I have an LT155 and having the same problem. This video make it easy to work on!! Thanks.
Great video man! I'm having the similair issues with my old mower, thank you!!
I will be tackling this project before spring.
Great video! I'm about to tackle this on my LT150. It's really helpful to see what's entailed before I jump in. Thanks! 👍
Good luck. It is a good engine. Still running well.
@@jcondon1 I just finished the job and again, your video and the manual link were very helpful. Coincidentally, I found almost the identical head gasket leak between the combustion chamber and crankcase at the lower lifter/ pushrod area. I also had the SAME blowout of the exhaust gasket. Good tip to loosen the muffler assembly to allow the flange to align with the head when reassembling. I had a little bit of lifter noise at first start up (wasn't surprised), but that went away and now it's running smoother and a little quieter with no blow-by out of the dipstick tube. Victory! Thank you again!😀👍🚜
@@jcondon1 Yes. I used to have a Simplicity rear engiine/hydro with a Kohler 14hp. I never had any issues with that engiine. When Briggs & Stratton bought out Simplicity about 5 yrs ago they discontinued that particular model.
Thank you. Damn, that sounded like a new engine when it started up!
For the hard to loosen head bolts I have an aluminum bar or rod I have. Put it on the bolt and give two heavy love tapes. This helps brake any electrolysis between the aluminum block and the metal bolts.
I had a neighbor bring me one with a clearly blown head gasket. They tried a mechanic in a bottle head gasket fix. Yeah you know what I"m talking about... for liquid cooled engines. Dumped it in with the oil. I don't know how many quarts the engine held but I know I captured more than two out of the drain. It played hell on the bearings. Think it had some sort of fiber of varying sizes in it. Machine sat in their back yard for as long as I lived there. I finally understood why there is so much common sense verbiage on labels.
Used on of these motors for 15 years to cut a couple of acres of grass every week March - October. Never missed a beat and I never blew out the cooling fins, and I don't recall a service requirement to so. Good engine.
If the only problem you had is a blown gasket, you got lucky.
I was working on a Briggs and stratton, it had some serious problems. The intake valve guide moved towards the valve head and held the valve open. I thought it just needed a valve job. WRONG , I took it to a machine shop, he removed the guide, knurled the guide, and replaced the guide. Heated the head with a propane torch to remove and replace. Then ground the valves, and seats. It was in pretty bad shape. I doubt it could have been lapped in, the seats were in really bad shape. It runs great now.
One thing I might have done differently, is I used 150 grit sandpaper on a flat smooth surface and resurfaced the head, and the block to have a good flat mounting head and block. I did that with the Briggs. I don't know If it helps or not but in my mind a flat service will help.
My gt225 with Kohler CV15S motor began sputtering, then stalling, then hard to start, then backfiring. After watching videos, I serviced the carb to no success so I decided to replace the head gasket. It looked exactly like your video. Cleaned the cooling fins well, reassembled, started. After a short period, the popping, backfiring, and stalling started again. Replaced the carb and coil. It ran much better, but not perfect. It was popping slightly til it warmed up, and then the engine kept wanting to race although I could throttle it down. I took it out and mowed several rows. Then it died and wouldn't start again. So, that's where I'm at. I rebuilt VW Bug engines for 20 years and, therefore, thought this would be a breeze as it was in your video. Haven't drained the gas, but my cars, mower, and snowblower run from the same batches of fuel without a problem. And, it seems I've done about everything that UA-cam videos have to offer. Do you have any other ideas. I want to believe that this is still fixable.
I would agree, it sounds fixable. Unfortunately that symptom can be caused by a lot of things (spark, timing, carburetion and valves). It sounds like the carburetor can be ruled out or at least discounted a bit. My initial thought would be ignition or timing related. If not already, would recommend a new name brand spark plug and check the flywheel key. Most small engines have a waste spark on the exhaust stoke. Popping a lot of times is caused by running lean or fuel that failed to ignite under compression, but ignites on the waist spark when the piston is at TDC of the exhaust stoke and both valves are open. Lastly would do a compression and leak down test to see if you have a valve that is not sealing.
I have heard that there's a coil issue. Heat causes it to do strange things. May check fine when it's cold. Might look at that. Also check flywheel key for sharing slightly.
I have the same tractor and experienced a blown head gasket. I will be more dutiful blowing out the grass clippings. Starting a GoFundME for a new pair of Levi's for you.
He, too, is air cooled. It’s the bold look of Kohler.
Nice, My John Deere is 31 years old lx 188 Kawasaki water cooled still going strong never been rebuilt...
Those are nice engines.
Very helpful. Thank you 👍
I have this same engine, so thanks for a great video.
Thanks for watching!
I just replaced the head gasket on a cv12.5 s kohler command it only had 25 lbs compression after I replaced gasket it now has 125 lbs compression.
Very helpful. Was your oil mixed with fuel? Even in the base of mine the oil is mixed with gas. My cooling fins were 100 percent blocked.
I got the same engine on my GT225. Just rebuilt it with a new head not too long ago and did a video on it. Not as good a editing job as you but Im happy with the result!
This one was a mess when I got it. Should have made a video on that. Been very happy with it though since fixing it up. 20+ years old and using it every week without issue.
@@jcondon1 its tough to video everything. That takes more time than the actual work most of the time. Those kohler commands are solid engines.
I am curious if the bolts stretch from over heating why not put new head bolts in ?
I have a 22 hp Courage, twin cylinder. The replacement head gasket has a thin metal strip on one side. The strip runs around the cylinder and valve ports. I watched closely, and I think your replacement gasket also had a strip and you put it out, against the head, not the block. Am I right? This is a detail that might be added to clarify. Thanks.
Those CV4xx series engines are among the best on the market
Its still running strong.
I have the same engine except it’s in a craftsman platform tractor. I’m curious as at the end of the video you cranked it for a few seconds without the choke. Then the second time you choked it to start. Does this help with starting easier? I have noticed that it takes multiple cranks with choke to fire mine up also.
I have a CH23 and this confirms my thoughts. I have hard starting, black spark plug on that side (after 30 minutes new), and a very loud exhaust sound after 20 minutes into mowing. Took valve covers off and it looks good. Ordered new valve cover gaskets and a head gasket kit from Kohler site with my units numbers. $36 total all parts. Going to fix this soon. Also...136 PSI compression on good cylinder side and 0 on bad side. In fact it shoots up to 80 very quickly then down to zero within a millisecond and will not get or hold above 30 PSI after that with needle always falling to zero. Compression relief? Don’t think so due to other side holding 136. Good video and going to perform my fix soon.
Sir Sweetness you might have a valve that is not seating properly. Are your valves adjustable? It might be as simple as adjusting or lapping the valves. Ideally you would put your engine to top dead center and then pressurize that cylinder to see if you have a leak out of the intake or exhaust. Guessing it will be easy to hear given the compression numbers you are seeing. You can use a leak down tester to pressurize the cylinder or if you do not have one you might be able to use the compression tester hose. One end in the spark plug hole and the other to an air compressor. 60 psi should be enough to test with. The engine might turn over when you add air so be careful.
James Condon
Yeah going to look at that also with all the carbon making sure valves are seating. May have to buy the gel used to gently smooth valve surfaces. I will still replace HG since already in there. 317 Hours on engine. Non adjustable valves. Hydraulic
Very nice video!
When I removed the head today I found one bolt (near the reed valve) with two areas of the threads covered in thread sealant. Do you know if that is normal?
This is one of the best repair videos on YT and I've watched many! One question...I have a Kohler Command CV13 in a John Deere ST38 (black deck). When attempting to put the push rods back in, there is a "guide plate" (Kohler part # 1214622S, per Jacks small engines) that I don't see on any other Kohler Command repair video. Other parts sites list it as a "spacer". This plate prevents me from be able to tighten the screws completely, so the push rods won't stay in place as the rockers are loose. Anyone else have this issue? I don't want to take it out since I'm sure it is there for a reason, but if the other Kohler engines in this family don't have it, and I can't reinstall my push rods, I may chance it. Any thoughts are appreciated!
Parts purchased. Off to San Diego for the weekend then back home to tackle the head gasket. I was able to float a ping pong ball on the air coming from the dipstick opening...is that bad? lol Thanks for the step by step.
lol, that would have made a good video!
great video.
Koehler builds a nice motor, but their head gaskets are crap! No flame ring around cylinder. Always blow at the bottom where the get saturated with gas. There should be a recall!
Great video!
Thanks!
Another master piece. Thanks James.
I wonder if Loctite handles heat for us, page 11:30. I saw others use heat to soften Loctite in disassembling. Your advice?
Heat will definitely help free a bolt from loctite
I'm not sure if I should even use blue lock tight I'm thinking it will just burn off . I don't know but I'm going to use blue lock tight on my bolts anyway what do I have to lose 😁😁😁
Thanks for a great video. I will attempt this tomorrow. Few questions:
1. Did you use Permatex clear RTV sealant?
2. Did you use Permatex Blue Threadlocker?
3. Do you have John Deere Head gasket part number?
1) I used the Permatex "The Right Stuff" for the valve cover. Any RTV would due.
2) Permatex Blue Threadlocker (removable not permanent).
3) Should be in the description.
Please, what was the torque? Nice job. Thanks
Absolutely found this an awesome video. The timing of titles and all. Pardon my technological innocence, but when tightening the rocker pivot bolts, does the piston or other engine component(s) need to be in a certain position?
Ideally you should be at top dead center on the compression stoke so the push rod is not pushing the valve open.
Should replace intake manifold amd carb gaskets too
Great video with torque specs. Where can I get the torque specs for Briggs and Stratton engine?
kalamelliel good question. I got lucky with the Kohler. The service manual was easy to find searching on google. I generally do not find Briggs service manuals, but there are sites that list the specs by engine series. I could send you a link if you like.
Should there be that much oil in the valve cover? Also, what type of camera/audio do you use for your filming?
Rudy Saldivar it is normal. Some engines have more then others. I use an iPhone XS for audio and video.
Mister James what attachment did you have in your drill for cleaning surfaces @ 9:40 in your video, please?
Plastic 3M plastic bristle brush 3M 3M-18733 Roloc Bristle Disc Grade - 120, Size - 2 www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSU3PYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E432Z7WKV7HBTW9WPVYX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How do you adjust the clearance on these rocker arms with out an adjustable nut and set screw? My rocker arms are without any clearance at TDC. I’m experiencing a loud tapping.
This engine had hydraulic lifters, no adjustment for valve lash.
great job but now you need to adjust that carb the engine is shunting up and down, not good carb may need a cleaning and check the governor
I have a CV20s- 65597. It was used on a golf course for a decade before I got it. It was well serviced but I believe both head gaskets are blown. Is it worth the extra effort to pull the heads all the way off and hone and re-ring the cylinders while doing the head gasket. Anything else that you would recommend on a high hour engine while I have it apart?
Lap the valves and replace the valve stem seals (if it has them).
Great video. Curious. Would a cylinder leakdown test have identified this head gasket condition?
Yes
What did you use in the drill to clean the metal on the cylinder and head .mounting surfaces. And how's it run since the video? Thanks!
That's what I'd like to know
Ya'll need red locktight for that high heat application there James. Not that head bolts need locktight or thread locker. But it can't hoit. It provides thread lubrication to produce a more even torque setting. Oh: I was expecting you to use either a pane of glass or flat thick steel backed by crockus cloth to smooth the head after that warpage and the crankcase flats also. I think you do a wonderful job James. I am just an old man mentioning things not criticizing your work which is probably way up to snuff. Not Squatch 253 or kt3406 level but highly recommended and well done. Good job
On mine the the same bottom bolt was loose. In my case the engine smoked like crazy and also hard to start.
I've got a LT 155 that just today started smoking heavily, has been hard starting recently. How long did it take to repair yours? How much were the parts?
@@garykerkstra1067 it took me about 4 hours total,
One day I disassembled all parts to take a look on the head gasket and made sure I was ordering the right one. Taking parts off is time consuming. Be sure to take pictures or do some drawings if you have to.
Parts: head gasket: $12.70
and exhaust manifold gasket: $7.99
Listen to how it sounded after he turned the key off.. I was just telling a guy in another channel that's how you can easily tell bad head gasket
@gpt500 Are u referring to the backfire/pop or the chugging sound? Or the fact that it took a few seconds to stop after the key was shutoff?
I loved your video it really helped with this old mower. Just a question of clarification, I have a cv13s would 100in lbs be the same for torquing the rocker bolts? I looked for valve lash clearance because I've never done this without setting a pre determined clearance. It kinda threw me off. Sorry if it's a dumb question I just wanted to be sure and you look plenty comfortable doing that. Thanks in advance!
daytonaracer90x the torque specs should be the same for that engine. One thing to note is that Kohler engine has several different valve setups. My valve clearance was not adjustable (hydraulic lifters). Some are adjustable and some have a rocker bridge. Torque setting might vary depending on you head/rocker setup. I will send you a link later of the service manual I was using.
The service manual can be viewed at drive.google.com/open?id=1vsQFHjCj-1VnCdRcaPvsXfYwIhSb1e7s
@@jcondon1I was looking for this and you kindly provided it. Thank you.
Impact drills make life so much easier. Turning ratchets sucks..
So true w cooling fins issue. See it alot. Head planar surface should be checked for .003 tolerance.
DO A VALVE JOB while its open too.
Machine shop only charge 30 or so to Resurface head and cut new valve seats if needed
You can resurface with a flat surface, 150 grit sandpaper, after cleaning the head of carbon, put the head face down and run in a figure 8. That will give a smooth flat surface. On the block block off the cylinder with the piston all the way to bottom of cylinder. Wrap 150 grit sandpaper around a flat file. Stuff paper towels in the cylinder and where the push rods go. Then move the file with the sandpaper wrapped around it go side to side and up and down. Will give a good smooth flat surface as well. It takes some time, but it's worth it.
I have the same exact mower and engine. Mine seems to putter and stutter a little and doesn’t seem to have the power it used to. It smokes a little black smoke on startup but clears up. Smells like burning rubber or something. I’m wondering if the rings are worn or the head gasket is going.
These engines are usually fairly bullet proof. The head gasket is a common failure. Mine still lets out a big cloud of smoke at startup but is still running well otherwise.
@@jcondon1 ok thanks for responding
What did you use on your drill to clean the surfaces
3m roloc plastic bristle brush
What web sight do you get your specs from for these engines
Just use google to search for the manuals. Not all can be found, but the manual for this engine came right up.
Hey James, are those valves adjustable? Hydraulic lifters? Fixed valves?
Not on this one. They are Hydraulic. But some Kohler commands are adjustable.
Great video, thanks! Hey do you know the part # for the head gasket kit, I can’t find it anywhere thanks again
The head gasket part number is in the description.
He hhe he he he he.. blowout! Neer neer neer neer neer neer neer neer neer neer ..beach boys.
I have a kohler cv460 w suspected head gasket blown too. Runs good just puffs blue smoke on throttle up n blade engagement. I also ordered new piston rings amd conn rod. Lifters are ok.
It's got a slight knock on crank.
Hone cylinder and reseat rings. . Torque that head in 3 stages until u reach proper torque following pattern and clean the block deck and head surfaces really really well. U should be good
I accidentally cranked the engine for about a second to 2 while doing this and there was no oil in the engine. The engine turns fine by hand and i dont hear and knock when I turn by hand. Can you blow the engine when you crank it?
You should be ok. Even though no oil, there is still a film of oil on everything.
@@jcondon1 thanks for the reply!!
Great video. James, I noticed you cleaned up the engine block surface before putting things back together. Did you clean up the surface of the head, as well?
I did
I see it now. Don't know how I missed that. I have an LT155 with similar symptoms (exhaust smoke coming out the oil dipstick). I picked up all the supplies and will start working on it in the next few days.
Head gasket replacement went well on my LT155. No more smoke coming from the oil reservoir. I've mowed 3 times and it's not burning oil like it did before either. Thanks James!
Would've been great if You included the replacement parts numbers in the description
Added the head gasket and exhaust gasket part numbers.
Thanks sir, your video was great help, thanks for the torque specs
I have same engine on l110. When it gets hot it miss and smoke. Wonder if this could be the issue
Suggestion, try to retorque the head bolts before you take anything apart be sure to do that when the engine is cold. And see if that helps. If it doesn't help, you may need a new head gasket(s) ( 2 for 2 cylinder only)
@@bertgrau3934 I done it last weekend still gotta do flywheel key it's sheared off.
@@LeeGuy-jd1ho
One thing on the flywheel, be sure to Torque it to spec, that helps keep the key from shearing.
Good luck.
So your not supposed to adjust the valves?
I have the same engine on my tractor. It stalls after 15 minutes of mowing, smoke out of the oil stick and the air intake. When I start it up it puffs black smoke out. Am I correct in thinking that's also a blown head gasket? It happened out of nowhere so it's not related to fuel sitting in the carb
Smoke out of the air intake is suspicious. These are known for blowing head gaskets. So it’s a safe bet that you need a new one, but you could have other issues. Hard to say.
@@jcondon1 Thanks for the reply! I did change out the gasket and it's still stalling and smoking, it's probably a more severe issue
I have a 15.5 Kohler motor timing broke
how do you set rocker arm adjustment?
My engine used hydraulic lifters. Not adjustable. Kohler also makes a version with adjustable valves.
@@jcondon1 Yea, I need to adjust after replacing head gasket was wondering how you did it, oh well, thank you
My gasket blew out on bottom also
Hey I just did this on my stx38. And it looks like the timing is off? Didn’t do that before replacing the head gasket. When the engine cranks looks like the spark is delayed and turns on late making the engine spin the wrong way for a second every time the spark turns on. What could it be ?
It sounds like a timing issue. But if it was running ok before you did the head gasket then it is unlikely timing (assume you did not remove the fly wheel or open up the crankcase). It you want to confirm timing, remove the engine cover so you can see the flywheel and the ignition coil. Remove the spark plug, turn the engine in the normal direction, find top dead center. The magnet on the flywheel should just be passing/clearing the ignition coil. Assuming that is good then would think it is a valve issue. Make sure both valves are opening and closing. If the clearance on your valves are adjustable, check the clearance. If off, then the decompression release may not be doing what it should. It you remove the spark plug wire and crank the engine, does it turn over normally or does it have trouble in the compression stroke?
James Condon I’ll double check all of that and report back 👍🏻 thanks
James Condon so i check everything. Looks like I ordered the wrong spark plug. Installed the right one. Added a little bit of starting spray and it kicked on. Unfortunately the damn gasket blew again? 🤦♂️
No valve adjustment right? Hydraulic lifters?
Hey Henry! No valve adjustment needed on my Kohler. There are some that do have adjustable valves. Here is a link to the manual I used drive.google.com/file/d/1vsQFHjCj-1VnCdRcaPvsXfYwIhSb1e7s/view?usp=sharing. Good luck with the Scotts. Love your work! I think starting on page 11.11 it starts talking about the different valve configurations.
And congrats on reaching 5000 subscribers!
@@jcondon1 thanks James, you did a great job on this video. Your engine is the same cv15s as my Scott's. I'm gonna try tightening the engine bolts and sell the darn thing. Thanks for the accolades, 5000 I guess is a big deal. Thanks for helping out.
Also what striped your lawn? It certainly wasn’t that JD
No, at that time I had a landscaper. The JD has been cutting the grass since.
Did I miss you checking the flatness on the head and block surface.
I did not check it. Usually not a huge concern on small engines, but definitely can be an issue especially if the engine has been overheated.
Puoi darmi anche informazioni sul carburatore, sul mio c'é scritto Walbro 6 ma non trovo nulla per eventuali ricambi sul tuo cosa c'é scritto grazie dell'aiuto. Can you also give me information on the carburetor, on mine it says Walbro 6 but I can't find anything for any spare parts on yours what is written thanks for the help.
Is it ok if I just remove the whole exhaust
It’s fine to remove the whole exhaust
Good video but you should've checked the valve clearance while you were right there or did you forget to put that in the video.
Steve Gibson this engine has hydraulic lifters and are not adjustable.
Overheating like that can cause a warped head.
When bottom head bolt had little torque on it- what happens is that the head is loose and engine displays symptoms of a blown head gasket(may smoke a lot)- all it may need is the head bolts re-torqued to 20 foot pounds. There is a great amount of vibration in these engines. Also- the rockers and pushrods don't need to be removed- they will come off with the cylinder head, the pushrods are made of different materials one is steel and one is aluminum don't get them mixed up- steel would be for the hot exhaust side.
Kohler command engines require 30 ft lbs of torque not 20
Great job with this video, it looks like I will be doing the same procedure on my Kohler Command. I have to ask what kind of drill attachment did you use to clean the carbon off the piston, valves and gasket surfaces on the engine? I sure could use one of those it would be a real time saver.
60retired for the piston I used a wire cup brush sold at Home Depot. For the gasket area I used “Roloc Bristle Disc Grade - 120”. Ordered that on amazon. It is a white plastic bristle brush. The bristle brush is much safer to use as it does not scratch up the aluminum as much as a wire brush. Spray wd40 on the carbon first that will help a lot removing the carbon.
The only assembly of the engine that was required by John Deere was bolting on their exhaust and making sure the gasket sealed properly and they couldn’t even do that right! Haha I hate green machines!
If it makes 5 years replace head gasket and sump gasket
Ciao scusa, ti scrivo dall'Italia ho Anch'io un kohler command 15 hp cc.426, con carburatore Walbro 6, montato su uno snapper. Purtroppo le targhette di identificazione col sole si sono cancellate come posso fare per i ricambi? Ho solo questo dato su una targhetta ancora leggibile: family YKHXS.462GB Grazie se mi puoi aiutare. Hi sorry, I'm writing from Italy I too have a kohler command 15 hp cc.426, with Walbro 6 carburettor, mounted on a snapper. Unfortunately, the identification plates have been erased with the sun, how can I do for spare parts? I only have this data on a still legible tag: family YKHXS.462GB Thanks if you can help me.
Without the model and spec it is hard to be sure what you have. The model I worked on in this video was CV15-41562. The parts diagram is located here: www.ereplacementparts.com/kohler-cv1541562-engine-parts-c-106503_108123_285185.html
Not that it means anything, but those rocker arms and pushrods look like they came from a Chevy V8. Curious.
No, the Chevy stuff is way too big 😊
need new stater
Why don't you convert to ft/lb? 18 ft/lb is easier to set on some torque wrenches than 216 in/lb!
Depends on the torque wrench used.
NOW you tell me!
I would have gotten replacement head bolts.
So I just did this repair and now I hear a screeching should every time it’s running, what is causing this
Is the ignition coil rubbing against the flywheel?
@@jcondon1 I don’t believe so, it wasn’t making that sound before hand but I can always check
Never a fan of the Command series. Liked the Kawasaki K series in Deeres much better
Would also prefer a Kawasaki, but cannot complain. The hole machine was only $150 and it is still running well.
You have a good channel. I think you could have a great channel if you added some personality to it. Not that I could do better, LOL. Check out other small engine channels and learn from them. The mechanics are great but very dry content. I know, I watched some of AVE's early posts, not so great. He found himself. I believe you can too. Just be your self.
John Bango thanks! I agree on the dry comment. I watch AVE, project farm, Jennies Garage and a lot of others and agree most started off pretty dry. It gives me hope. I started the channel really just to give people a mechanical resource. It could be much more.
@@jcondon1 Don't change anything... Perfect as is. No drama, no music. Data based.
@@cudadoug
I agree with you, Jim does a great job !
dude, I searched everywhere for that stupid manual that gives the specs...the hell you only give the specs for the exhaust and not the head bolts. the more important specs
drive.google.com/file/d/1vsQFHjCj-1VnCdRcaPvsXfYwIhSb1e7s/view?usp=drivesdk