Tapped Horn Subwoofers
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- Back in 2009, I spent six months designing and revising multiple times the plans for my first 16Hz tapped horn subwoofer. In 2010, I decided to do it again only better. I thought y'all might like to hear about them.
This video replaces multiple older ones I used to have on my channel. I might do another smaller one just for the channel... should I?
I learned quite a few things from this video. Great content
I’d love to see the 5” sub enclosure
Very interesting, I like your ingenuity!
Yeah, lets see the 4x5s Version! 🤩
Wowed! So impressed!
The SDX10 is available at Meniscus Audio and directly from CSS.
I thought about doing one of these with my 312s in my SUV since I have so much more space
sweeeeeet
Thank you for posting this, I like seeing tapped horn projects on video. What did you use to cut the panels?
I used a circular saw with a cheap two piece guide to keep it moving straight. Ended up having to brace the guide in the middle for the longer panels, but it worked pretty well.
Those last vids where the icing on the top wolf! Epic and thanks for the inspiration, keep the vids coming brother and get bk building, maybe try making some back loaded horns or modefied cerwin vegas with some 12s, one for each corner.
Could you point me in the direction to start modeling them or would you sell plans. I am looking to use a sundown sa12 classic for my home theater powered off of a taramps smart 3 I'm running off of a battery bank and rv power converter. It has low pass and subsonic filters in the amp. I was thinking tuning around 25 to 30 hertz. Any help would be appreciated. Keep up the good work.
Sorry - I use Hornresp for modeling, but it has a steep enough learning curve I'm not sure I'd be able to help too much. I got a lot of help from others to learn how to use it, mostly on AVS forums back in the day.
Wowwww. I want one. . Those 10s are available still. What are you using for processing ?
Reckhorn B2 - always meant to swap it for a Mini DSP but after calibrating and measuring the B2 it works well enough.
Lol yes do it. Be a cool build..! Can you point me the right direction on horn design..?
if you build a second one with the sbx10's and put the throats together you might get another 3dB by horn coupling? or whatever it is called alone
Yes indeed.
I'm curious to know if my square sub would work well in a tapped or folded horn since it's square?
The formula I use is Bl^2/Re/Sd - anything between 0.12 and 0.20 is a potential tapped horn candidate. 0.08-0.12 for folded horn. I've also looked for a Qes of around 0.3 to quickly tell if a driver's worth looking at for a TH before using the formula on it.
What range do you get out of it? Now that I'm thinking of it I've build myself a "tapped horn" once too. It was really really loud at about 30Hz
I have them working between 16-80Hz, but the SDX horn looks pretty good up to about 100Hz or so. Wouldn't go too much higher as the response gets pretty uneven that high up.
127db with only 350W?! that seems completely ludicrous. can you explain to me what is then the tradeoff/limitations of using smaller drivers like 8 or 5 inch? what do you lose/gain by doing this in comparison with larger drivers, generally speaking? i build bass speakers from plans i find but they're usually with 18 inch drivers, and then i'm running them with like 2,5kw amps at least. watching this video i realise how completely ignorant i am to the physics. if it's possible to get that loud a sound at such low frequency with so little power then why would one ever bother going for bigger drivers?
It seems ludicrous until you actually hear these things doing it. Then you start worrying about breaking the house. Horn loading more efficiently couples the drivers to the space, and when you point them at a corner they get even more efficient because the corner is now part of the horn.
It's all trade-offs. 8" or smaller drivers can't displace enough air to get to the 115dB Dolby level at listening position down to 16Hz unless you use more of them (and end up with a bigger enclosure). But a pair of 8s could possibly do it at 20Hz instead with the right drivers. Likewise, my 10" drivers can't get below 16Hz with enough volume for similar reasons, and when you go up to the 15" drivers needed to do it, now you have a box so big you might as well just do traditional vented cabinets and build more of them.
Also one has to consider how cheap it is to get big power to drive more boxes with today's amps. Budget, space, electrical, what you need to get out of them... it's all about what's going to work best for the specific situation you're dealing with. The horns I built are perfect for my use case - that's why I've never even thought about replacing them. All I need from them is 120dB max at listening position to 16Hz to cover all potential needs and they still have plenty left on the table at that point. Amps are happy, wallet's happy, I'm happy, and I'm nowhere near any neighbors to complain about them :D
Bud, please make one that uses a single 6 inch or 8 inch with a smaller profile.
That might be a tall order - the tuning would have to be pretty high to get a decent amount of SPL out of such a small driver. Low, loud, little: we can only have two of those things and have to sacrifice the third. I tried to come up with a home theater design using one Tang Band 8" before I did that first dual 8x12" box, and quickly realized that I wasn't going to get reference level SPL from it unless it was tuned well over 30Hz. I suppose it could work outside of home theater use though.
Hello. Noob question. Do i need the speaker polarity inverted so that it will be in phase?
If wiring the two drivers in series you would connect the amp positive to one driver's positive, the negative of that same driver to the other driver's positive, and then the amp negative goes to the second driver's negative.
For parallel, just run the amp positive to both drivers' positive, and the amp negative to both drivers' negative. Both drivers must be running with the same polarity to the amp.
How did you fold them?Did you follow a tutorial?Could you link it?
Folding is the hard part by far. For these I exported the hornresp dimensions, went into Sketchup, and did a lot of cut and pasting to see what worked for 4x8' plywood sheets. After each fold, I then measure the path length and plug the numbers back into Hornresp to see if I got anywhere near a desirable result. If anything at all is off, I get to do all of that all over again. For my SDX horn, I think it was fold 3L that made me happy: 3 being the number of major revisions to the design, and then I went down the alphabet just trying different folds. Takes me months to do that. I'll try and do another video at some point going into that process a bit more.
If you had tuned your vented box higher it would have gotten louder. 11 Hz is quite low, maybe 15-20?
Yup. Could have also built a second one that would have taken the system over reference and just used the other channel of the 1850HD. But I wanted a challenge, so I did the tapped horns. No regrets. But the IXL was fun for a while - it had a little something extra in that it used to feel like someone was grabbing the back of the couch and shaking it at times, which the horns can't quite do as well, but the horns get so loud in their passband it doesn't matter much.
@@Oklawolf in my limited experience of horns I've enjoyed playing with the acoustic magnification. It feels like they can easily get loud and deliver punchy basslines well thanks to both the dynamic range and the acoustic braking effect on the woofer of a long horn (though most of the lingering bass is due to room reverberation). A ported takes slightly longer to build up and silence the resonance. It functions like an aperiodic membrane but louder. I just don't have the floor space for them any more.
I haven't built any tapped horns, just a large but crudely designed front loaded horn driven by 2 x JBL GTO 1264 12" drivers and rife with leaks and panel resonances. It also weighed upwards of 120 kg and 32 cubic feet but got quite loud off an Acoustic solutions SP101. I also built an Autotuba which to me seems as good as a reasonable ported 12 (though handles less power) that's tuned to 40, despite only using a JBL GTO804, though one of my Eminence Kappalite 3012lf reflex boxes outpowers it (and the drivers are expensive in those boxes!).
I've got a 14Hz tapped horn design that never made it into reality that uses two 15" Sundown drivers. Sometimes I think it would be wild to try and bring that monster into being, and then I remember it needs two full 4x8' sheets of plywood just for the side panels. Also costs a fortune. Horns of any type really make more sense above 20Hz IMO - they get too big below that. But I'm a nutcase so I went for 16Hz twice so who knows whether or not that big one will ever come into being. The idea behind that one was to come up with something like what I have now for commercial movie theaters - our local theater overhauled their system a few years ago so I couldn't help but wonder what I would do if I owned the place. IIRC that design pushes 135dB at one meter.
@@TimpBizkit I enjoy folded bass horns too, but that's the first I've heard of the braking effect on the woofer of a long horn. Do you have any measurements or research done on this?
@@markbushinski1198 unfortunately not.
You ever go through with the 5 inch horn?
Sorry, no - I just didn't have the time or budget. Takes me several months to fold and refold these things until they both match the model and can actually be constructed. The SDX horn went through 20+ revisions before I was happy with it.
wouldnt be 6th order bandpass more efficient? Also easy to tune in wide range of low hz's
A tapped horn basically is a form of 6th order bandpass with horn flare - a traditional 6th order lacking the horn would lose that extra efficiency.
@@Oklawolf thanks for explaining, I got it now I think.
@@Oklawolf isn’t a tapped horn 3rd order? Im not super familiar with acoustic orders but, I do believe u got the front of the driver as 1 order, back as 2nd and then interaction when they connect as the 3rd order. And then there’s no compression chambers in tapped horn so that’s it as far orders go.