Changing Nozzles from .6 to .4 on the Prusa XL 5 TH
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- Опубліковано 18 гру 2023
- Prusa Nozzle Change Instructions -
help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to...
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Don’t forget to redo the tool offset calibration after changing nozzles.
this ^
Thank you!
I changed the nozzles several times without a new tool offset. It still works perfect. I think, that the precision of the nozzles is so high, that it is not necessary. I think the main reason for the offset calibration is to compensate the differences of the whole toolhead and not only the nozzle.
Prusa does not write anything about the offset calibration in its help document about the nozzle change.
@@Jeggo65 same experience with MK3S+. Nozzle Change done and never needed to recalibrate live adjust z
Wow, that’s quite involved. Makes you really appreciate Bambu’s quick change nozzle system.
And it seems like there are SO many ways to damage it.
The divots on the side of the hexagonal part of the nozzle indicate the size of it
Thank you!
True, but I never remember what size they mean lol
There's a way to line up screw threads without the trial and error. Apply gentle pressure (pushing toward the heat block) and turn the screw (or nozzle in this case) backward until you feel the threads pop into place. Doing it this way you can get it in the first try and never have to worry whether or not it's in the correct position. If you're unfamiliar with how that pop feels, just keep turning backwards and focus on how it feels until you feel sure about it popping into place. Readjust your grip (by 90 degrees or so on the nozzle) if you think you might be missing the pop (which can happen if the pop would be happening right about the spot where you ease off the pressure to change your grip because human wrists can't exactly spin around and around in only one direction). Turning it backward with gentle pressure is harmless so you can do that safely as much as you want until you feel sure about it. These nozzles will pop in the same place every rotation so you can always test that out (that being said there is such a thing as multi-start screws which have more than one place it can pop in correctly)
Oh that's great to know! Thanks so much!
My XL is working great so I think I'll leave it alone, but it's good to see the process.
Good to hear! Thanks!
Yes! I ordered also a 0.4 nozzle for my single toolhead (patiently waiting for extra toolhead upgrade options in the webshop). Nozzle (and some filament) not delivered yet, but can't wait to see the difference.
Hope it works! Thanks!
I appreciate this so much. I also was about to stubbornly leave the cables hooked up. Prusa does not set us up for success here by referring to this as a “hot swappable“ system. It’s quite an involved process. It would be nice to just embrace that from the word “go”.
I agree. The wording on this doesn't match the time involved. Especially if you recalibrate after swapping. Thank you!
Hooray! You got the 0.4mm nozzles! Your XL is going to be awesome now.
Hope so! Thanks!
You should try the Nozzle Change tool on printables.
Thank you!
With the newest firmware there is an option in the calibrations that will set all of the nozzle sizes at one time. You will always want to run the tool head offset calibration any time you adjust the nozzle on a print head. From what I have read, it builds each offset based on the other nozzles so if you adjust 3 you will need to recalibrate 3, 4, and 5. I would probably run the full calibration for all 5 just to make sure.
Oh that's interesting. I'll check that out. Thanks!
I also ordered two more pins for the hot end. I kept dropping mine and am afraid I will loose one. They are under $2 and do not change the shipping cost
Looking forward to seeing the difference the smaller nozzle makes on the XL.
Thank you!
I use the same method and don't unplug the wires, I find that for screwing it back in that trying to keep the aluminium heat block straight and parallel to hole helps but still sometimes can take a minute to get the nozzle threads to catch and start screwing in. You are correct in taking it slow and not just going at it as threads on the aluminium heat block could strip very easy.
For me in the future, I'll probably Unplug the cables because it was faster than fighting the angle. But I'll definitely be curious to see how the cables hold up. Thanks!
Looking forward to your findings when printing one of your production models using the .4 nozzle and what differences you see.
I did this about 3 weeks back. I've been super happy with the results and doubt that I will switch back without a very compelling reason. I've printed PLA and TPU and even TPU with PLA supports with great success.
I am hopeful that it lives up to the hype! Thanks!
Your videos continue to be very valuable to me as a new XL 2 tool owner myself. Im not sure id go down in size for nozzles if only because i also own a mini i modded with the Revo set. Ive also found that most of my printing even on the mini is near as makes no difference in detail using the 6, and even bought the obXidian .6 to do the bulk of my printing with it. fr my own purposes i might even try at some point to take at least on of the head for my XL up to an 8 to help offset the super long multiday prints
So the current theory is that the XL hot end cannot keep up with the volumetric at 0.6…. So you run the risk of occasional under-extrusion with the 0.6mm
Yes I was leaning towards scaling up for my larger prints. It seemed backwards to me to switch to .4. I think that's why it took me a little while. I hope it's lives up to the hype!
Those containers are used for cutting tools for machining operations, such as end mills. My M6 adapters came in the same case, not a bag.
You might want to use parallel jaw pliers instead of needle nose pliers when gripping the heater block. You can find them with soft faces. They are common for jewelry making, but check that they'll open far enough. Jewelry ones are a little small.
Thank you!
Thank you for the very interesting and consistent Prusa XL videos!
But I would really recommend to use some quality tools to work with. They don't really cost much, but they prevent scratches and problems and make work on your printer much easier.
Yes I forgot about the included hotels holder. Thanks!
At least you don't have to have the nozzle around 280 deg just to unscrew it like the old V6 hotend on the MK3S+, precisely the reason I upgraded to Revo.
That's true. Not possible to get burned on the XL. Thanks!
I changed all the nozzles to .4 and found I get better print results.
Better detail? Less stringing? Both? Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting both for sure. Stringing is all but gone now.
Good job! In the bag theres a tool to grab the heatblock. looks almost the same as the tool for the nozzle.
I completely forgot! Would be a little more gentle than pliers! Thanks!
I recently got my XL. I fired up a few test prints and I have zero stringing with 0.6 nozzles. Now I did just upgrade the firmware to 5.1.2 so maybe that’s the fix. The printer is super fast and perfect, I don’t understand all the fuss. I do have spare 0.4 nozzles I was going to try, but really I don’t see a need. Thanks for your videos.
If you don't have stringing, I would just keep it as is. I can get rid of the stringing with .6 by lowering the temp to 190. But I have had some other complications because of the low temp. So maybe this will work better for me. Thanks!
Was hoping to see a comparison of the nozzles on this 11 min video haha. Will keep tuned for the next one.
Yeah it ended up long eventho I tried to speed it up. Coming soon!
For the mk4 there a heatblock holders you can simply click onto the extruder. This makes nozzle changes more easy. You unload filament, let the hotend cool down to
There is one on printables to hold the hotend of the XL
@@surfalex2000model number or something?, I find only one for mk4, not for xl? ( nr 545809)
I did get a comment that the metal wrenches include a heatblock holder. I completely forgot this! Thank you!
@@tada3dprinting yes, but with the slide mount that i made, it also holds the hotend at the position and protects the cables
Would a metric nut driver work better at the nozzle change than the universal wrench?
Yes probably. I have one around but couldn't seem to find it in time for the video. Thanks!
Looking forward for some complex large print example :)
Me too! Thank you!
The adaptors also comes in the same case now.
Oh good to know! Thanks!
Since you're having - I think - two MK4s and that XL 5 TH it might be worth considering to have complete nozzle assemblies ready, with heating block and cables. That would make it a lot easier and faster to use different nozzles depending on the print job you're planning to do. Also you should prepare different profiles for each nozzle size, not only for the XL but for the MK4 as well, because those print a lot faster with a bigger nozzle too and some prints may call not so much for detail but for speed. With the pre-assembled hotends preparing the printer is not much more effort than changing the filament, except on the XL the calibration might take a while, but that's true for every nozzle change.
Also the tip with turning (any) threads backwards until you feel them pop "start to start" is pretty good advice. It works for nuts and bolts as well as jar lids. Once it is one turn in, there is no chance to damage the threads, unless they were already damaged
Yeah that's true. And probably would be good to have them ready in case the cables break on one. I don't think that the replacement came completely assembled. Yeah I will look into the different sized nozzles. I am just not ready to start having stringing problems on my MK4s. Thanks!
I ordered 5 .4 nozzles this morning and tried to let you know they are on sale. When they changed the default they did a discount for current XL owners. I got 5 nozzles with shipping for about $80.
Will be very interested to see the results
Thanks so much! Let me know how it goes!
I'm now grumpy hearing this. I bought a full set of .4mm and .6mm ObXidian nozzles on Black Friday. I've been loving the .4mm performance and wouldn't go back but I'm sad to not have been contacted by Prusa about the offer.
Was this with the 5.1.2 firmware??? I am wondering if it will still allow you to do mixed nozzle sizes.
Yes. It does show my different nozzle options. But it didn't seem like I can print one print with both sizes. Thanks!
So the XL now comes with .4 nozzles?
Any idea when they made the change. My 2tool XL turned up last week (haven't had the time to set it up yet). I was planning on getting a couple of .4 nozzles for it
They're saying that the .4 nozzle lessens the stringing and some underextrusion issues. I would try out your machine for the types of prints you need it for. And if you have these issues, then order the nozzle. I'll see if it helps for me!
@@tada3dprinting I did see another UA-camr who was getting much better results with .4 nozzles, so was considering picking a couple up....they are useful spares for my mk4 anyway lol.
You just need to hold the heater block square so that the nozzle threads in smoothly. If you get any resistance then you're not holding it square. When you do that it will go very quickly.
Thank you!
You can get much better tools for nozzles. A socket driver or tee handled socket is much easier to use. I use the Slice Engineering tee handle torque wrench. Also a set of Wiha or Wera hex screwdrivers are nicer for most use than the supplied L wrenches. I haven't tried changing the 0.6 nozzle on my one tool XL but I do have them here. Generally I send the jobs that need 0.4 to the MK4 and reserve the larger jobs that benefit most from the 0.6 for the XL.
I'll look into it. Yeah I felt like the .6 on my XL was ok but just not quite there. I'll see if it works for me. Thanks!
@0:29 so prusa finally make 0.4 the default? would have saved a ton of headaches if they did it to begin with.
Yeah they send out a notice that new ones will go out with .4. Yeah the .6 worked fine on my single toolhead but the multi toolhead has been a mess. Thanks!
I ordered 5 adapters instead of nozzles because I've been so impressed with the tungsten carbide nozzles that I'm going to skip the obxidion. I have a Diamondback on my MK4, and while I do think it's a great nozzle, I find it no better than the tungsten carbide, and the tungsten carbide is $40 cheaper. Both are lifetime warranty.
Just be careful In the installation. Adapter nozzles could ooze out if not tightened enough.
Just be careful In the installation. Adapter nozzles could ooze out if not tightened enough.
@@IvanJoel Right, you are correct. I thought about that before my purchase, but I like the Tungsten carbide nozzles so much, I'm willing to trade off the one piece nozzle design for the split design.
Oh that's a good idea. When I installed these I was kicking myself a bit. I waited for the 5 .4 nozzles to come in. And then only installed 2. And I already had 2 adapters! Why I didn't try this first, I'm not sure. I'm curious if it works for you!
the XL comes with a tool to hold the hotend, so you don’t need pliers?
Oh I forgot. So used to the MK series. Thanks for the reminder!
@1:28 those containers are generic machine shop drill bit / endmill containers.
Ok. They look cool. But clearly not 3d printed.
I am very sad that the slicer doesn't allow you to use different sized nozzles for different sections with the XL. That's what made me cancel my order sadly.
I'm sure it will be available eventually. Gotta get the stringing figured out first!
Shouldn’t the printer be off when you do the change?
Probably. The single toolhead immediately started beeping at me when I unhooked cables. This one didn't and I forgot it was still on. Thanks!
The other tool will fit the hot end so you don't have to use the pliers.
Thank you!
next order get some silicone socks for these :)
I think I have them. I'm not a big fan of socks on printers. But I know it works for some people. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting all good :) i wasn't either until i saw a dirty heater block caused by some failed prints and also not properly torqued nozzle/heaterblock on mk3s+ and next time that happened i was very glad to have the socks on :D
Keeping the cables in place Is not worth the trouble for me.
I rather just made full hotends and swap them in 5 minutes without worrying about thread damage.
My heart rate went back when you did just that, too many things can go expensively wrong
Yeah I won't be doing it again. Not faster and way too risky! Thanks!
I am almost getting my 4k printer to print niceley. Ouch
With nozzles that cost $20 each, so another $100.
It's been almost 2 months that I've had it. Can't even remember the number of slicer/firmware etc I am on. But I must be close right?
@@tada3dprinting close to selling it you mean ?
that's insane. for $4k it shouldn't require so much fiddling.