If vibration shows up after shortening, the GM service manual has a simple procedure using two hose clamps of the worm clamp type. Start with two side by side opposite on any weights. Test drive or place on hoist/jack stands with front wheels blocked. Have a helper run the speed back to the problem area. If vibration felt in rear fender, move the clamps opposite directions 1/4" for a total of 1/2. Stop & re-try. Once smooth, the clamp head weighs about 1/4 oz. Tach weld a 3/8 flat washer a both locations. If fixed, with clamps off, retry again. It takes about 1/2hr but can save $40+. DK, ASE master, retired.
If the welds are good, it will be as good or stronger than the original...assuming it will be used for the original weight/torque specifications. There's nothing wrong with what he did! This driveline is just basically a pipe! He alligned the corresponding marks, cut off the piece in between, the put them back together! I see so many people criticizing this video and even a 'wrong for so many reasons ' comment...yet why is this wrong? Some people are saying it needs to be reinforced...you could, but its not 'reinforced' anywhere else, so once again, if the welds are good, it will be as good as the rest. If adding a sleeve, you'll also have to make sure it's balanced. Anyways, if its slightly off, nothing terrible is going to happen, it will just cause the car to use more gas, and perhaps higher wear on the axle and transmission parts. You should of coarse keep it as far from the center as possible, because a slight misalignment at the center will cause a much larger misalignment of the shaft...basic math...the shaft will be shaped like a 'V'. Also, I recommend doing this on the end that goes into the axle NOT on the transmission...becuase if for whatever reason the joint comes to fail while driving (bad welds for example), the longer piece will simply slide on top of the road....but if it fails at the transmission end, it will be forced against the road and if it hits a hole, it will rip the entire rear end of the car, possibly cause the entire rear end of the car to jump up and/or cause the car to be suddenly stopped without direction....causing an accident! Let's keep it simple and not try to be smartasses here people.
Not what i would do at all..The weld in yokes on the ends are machined to slip fit in the tubed after being "faced off" square,therefore the run out measured in this area will most always be within a few thousands even if the pipe is bent.You should support the tube at each end next to the yokes and dial the run out as close to the weld as possible tapping the tube and adjusting run out as you tack it..my two cents
The v-block at the indicator won't allow the droop to show. On a long driveshaft the weight itself will obscure your runout too. He's effectively measuring the surface runout and/or eccentricity on the shaft. Put the indicator at the weld and run the v-block just behind the new weld.
Everything about their technique was wrong. Should have been shortened at the yoke where the original weld but is pressed into the tube. You can't just weld two bits of tube together. Good luck getting that thing balanced!
Haha dial indicator over the v block, ofcourse your not going to get any run out, but as you can see at 2:30 they had cleaned an area around the center of the shaft were I bet they originally had the v block and most likely had a shit load of run out, so moved it to make it look like it was all sweet! Fail
I have been doing drive shafts this way for 45 years and never had any problems Drove a 1960 Ford 50 miles with a driveshaft that had been done in a machine shop (the right way) and it vibrated the starter and generator loose had to drive 15 miles any hour when I got to the farm shop of my dad's got 2 drive lines cut and welded them and never had any problems.It was my brother-in-laws car and did not tell him for several years until he sold it.
I've done 5 or 6 myself. Even lengthened 1 by joining pieces of 2. I've always measured and marked very carefully, cut with a hacksaw and mig'ed it together. If you're sloppy you'll end up with a sloppy shaft, but if you're careful and know how to measure, cut, and weld precisely, you'll be fine. You can balance your driveshaft if necessary with a little effort with the hose clamp balancing method ruodders and racers have been using for decades. I've seen pictures of racewinning Grand National Stockcars from the early 60s with hoseclamps tackwelded in place. The shaft in my 440 powered '66 Belvedere is a pickup shaft I shortened and balanced myself. No vibes, strong enough to take 5 years of abuse with no problems. Nothing wrong with paying people to solve your problems for you if you choose, but most of us can solve more of our own problems than the people who want us to pay them would like us to believe
I'm going to tack it put it in the truck and use the trans and rear axle as v blocks then get the dial indicator then hold the mig gun and slowly rotate one tire to rotate the shaft to weld it in 1 run
instead of 2 minute tech, this should be "how to ruin a driveshaft in 2 minutes". Modified lots of driveshafts,narrowed rear ends,built race car chassis in my 40+ years building cars and have never seen a driveshaft shortened like that and be serviceable afterwards. it's fine for mockups but I'd never use it
I must agree with the criticism about this video. I would like to add that just drawing a line the length of the shaft will not be accurate. Laying angle iron the length of the shaft will give you a straight line.
I just lengthened a shaft kind of like that but slipped a piece of bigger shaft over it and eyeballed it. I plowed snow all winter with it and i wasnt nice to either and It held up just fine.
Excellent! You know it fits. You can now take it to a driveshaft company and ask them to make you a new one using yours as a pattern, better that bits of paper with measurements and photos.
If you’re going tho do it this way use a pipe cutter to keep the cuts straight and perpendicular to the tubing. The bevel in the cut will make welding easier. Clamp it in angle iron to make the tack welds and then check runout before welding and then again after.
I agree. First thing I noticed, is the way he measured runout is all wrong. Both Vees need to be on the same side of the weld. The short piece sitting in it's own Vee, is not going to indicate runout, because that side is going to run concentric with the Vee. What he is measuring, is not runout, but out of roundness!
the only part of a driveshaft that is balanced is the ends where the weights are. you can lengthen or shorten it anywhere in between. the secret is to have the welds the same thickness all the way around. good if you have someone to slowly spin or turn the driveshaft between the angle iron parallels while the welder does his magic.been there done that
I`ve done many of them with a framing square and a level only 2 that I remember where out of balance which was corrected with a hose clamp.... Never cut out of the center... Talk about balance problems...
I never knew you could cut a drive shaft there I always thought you had to cut at a certain end and then re weld the u joint knuckle. Maybe it’s cause it’s a temp solution till he gets a new one maybe?
@@rokitman5753 he should have used "nonfunctional". That is a mod suitable for mock-up, NOT actual use. A butt weld joint is the equivalent strength of notching the original material to 50% of it's thickness. He declared that tubing to be 1/16 inch wall, so that butt has the strength of 1/32 inch wall. Because he used perpendicular to axis straight cuts, that is all the strength that joint can have. Read that "guaranteed failure under actual use, almost immediately". You CAN weld up a functional shortened driveshaft. You either have to sleeve it, or your butt joint needs to be cut into doll heads, so the weld is holding alignment but not actually subject to torsional stress (a VERY complicated cut).
Done this dozens of times with zero failures but they were only temporary or for off-road applications only where speeds are very low like 10-15 mph out in the woods...I would never do highway speed or any kind of hard launching
Cutting it down with a chop saw and welding it is great for getting it to move under its own power. Sure you don’t want to go drag racing with it. But it’s perfect for making it capable of moving.
i'm sure that works although a sleeve might be nice. still it seems way easier and safer to cut the welds that hold the yoke then shorten the driveshaft and weld the yoke back in like the factory did. i'm just a dopey shade tree mechanic with a very small fraction of the $ worth of tools and i have successfully cut down several so obviously it's not rocket science.
J clark Asbolutely a better idea than what is shown in the video! I've always used lathes to get them straight before heading to the balancer but you'd probably also be able to get a decent runout with the shaft temporarily mounted in the vehicle to check with a magnetic base dial indicator and then removing it to weld once you got good runout.
I hear JB Weld makes a product they claim to be as good as steel once cured. Lol. Throw some aluminum tape over it and as long as noone can tell, its strong as factory...
If you can weld it in one pass 360, then it will not warp. Or you can do one half, flip it and continue on the other half but doing so within 2-4 sec so the pipe temperature doesn’t drop significantly.
As someone who has dropped a driveshaft twice, and twisted another in two, I learned to pay the right place to make the one I twisted...l think it was around $130 about 20 years ago.
can anyone help me i have a question. i recently bought a foxbody drive shaft that was shortened anyone know why that is? or is it something you do for racing? please help
And use the v-blocks to cut the section out. Rotate the shaft, at low speed, with a motor and belt. Just hold a cutting tool where the cuts will be. This way, both cuts will be perfectly square. Put one v-block at one end, and the other v-block inside where the cuts will be. About a foot from the end. This way, each cut will be outside the v-block. Should be almost a true shaft.
You do not have to do increment welding on this pipe and in fact I wouldn't recommend it. If you weld it all in one shot, it will cool at the same rate all the way around. No chance of warping. It's called "welding sequence."
You are checking the run-out in EXACTLY the wrong place. You should have the v-block set-up just behind the cut/tack-welded area. The way you have this set-up, you are ONLY checking to see how round that section of the drive-shaft is.
Looks like to me to accurately determine run out the entire shaft needs to be between centers. Measuring tube run out is inaccurate to the entire shaft. V blocks are ok for measuring on single components
That is practical for off road 4x4 stuff that has no real danger of hurting anyone. I've butt welded drive shafts clamped in angle iron and never had one fail - actually killed a D70 R&P and a 35 spline axle shaft without damaging the ghetto out of balance "ticking time bomb." The video is crap advice for a street car but good enough for a weekend trailer queen.
I am probably the laziest person you'll ever meet. I've hot glued holes in radiator hoses, I've ziptied broken hood latches, hell for a month and a half I used hay twine to keep my broken muffler in the right spot and even I can tell you powernation is trying to kill you. This is the definition of I have a welder so I can do anything whatsoever.
Alex Reed I've got a spark plugs jb welded in. Works good until it blows out. Then I jb well it back in. I have got 500 miles on the best and 20 feet on the worst. Helps to have plug and head clean and let set up good.
I have a driveshaft that has a slip built into it with flanges on each end. Can someone tell me the math on shortening it if need be? I e swapped in a new transmission and transfer case into my runner. So I have the measurement distance from output flange on case too flange on rear diff. Then I should measure the driveshaft and have a certain amount of play in the splines. I know you don't want it to bottom out. So you also need to measure the distance from flange to flange at full droop of rear suspension? Is this correct? I've always wondered the calculation on this but every website just tells you to measure the distance between flanges then send it to driveshaft shoop. That teaches me nothing....
So I need to shorten a frame 50 mm on a RWD Chevy LUV, which involves taking 50mm out of the driveshaft. Everyone says not to do it this way, so can someone please explain to me WHY you shouldn't do it this way?
You should have used a aluminium piece of angle to set your 2 pieces back together. Not everyone is using a "true" saw. They way your showing is the "true" cut way. Maybe both pieces should have been spun on the lathe, another tool most people don't have. For a DIY video, more thought should have been planned out. For a cut and splice method.
a new weld joint and take the length off the front or back... but that's where the weights go and we don't want to have it balanced. so nah do it the pole vault way LOL
This might be ok on a low speed deal, but id be pissed if i found that on my car. Why not true it in a lathe and use the correct end to put back on it?
Zaq341 It is the amount of out of true it is. Ideally it'll be 0.000, indicating it is perfectly round(within tollerances of your machine :P), but a small amount can be tolerated by unis and CV joints.
+Rob F In this case they're are measuring how straight it is. If he welded that thing crooked, the runout would be greater indicating the shaft was no longer straight.
this setup is all wrong, especially the runout checking... all he was measuring there was the runout of the tube, and possobly any "wobble" introduced by the welded section. I would have rather put a sleeve in if possible, and the v blocks should have been on one side of the weld with the dial indicator on the other.. if a sleeve was cut at 90* and only a 2 to 4 inch piece needed it wouldnt affect the balance much, as well as it would provide some strength to the weld joint, and allow better control of the runout alignment. come on guys this is basic machining....
Previous owner did this shit to my truck had to deal with 2 companies 3 drive shafts then they tell me some dumb ass put a different transmission in and shortened the shaft now I have to pay to rebuild it will be in shop for 3 fucking days if I’m lucky
Anyone watching this video this is the absolute worst way to shorten a driveshaft. I have 2 driveline shops and build custom high horsepower aluminum, and high horsepower steel drivelines. never cut a driveline like this and butt the tubes together there is a reason they are welded on the ends. welding it like this will make it really weak and will break the tube no matter the “penetration” you have on the weld. DONT DO THIS PLS.
I realize this is temporary but at least learn where to put the v-blocks and the indicator. I've never shortened a driveshaft before, but as a machinist of over 20 years, I can tell you you're not checking runout with the indicator over the v block. I would be embarrassed to post this video. Move the v block to the other side of the weld and see what it says.
Got your indicator on the v block buddy your not going to get accurate run out your mag base indicator needs to be somewhere else maybe in the middle three different spots
Hey dude! This video was awesome, i wanna do an rx7 drift build but i also have an idea for a lighter drift car i build myself, is it possible to cut a big section out of a drive shaft so i can have semi rear end drift on a nissan diff, nissan drive shaft and pretty much nissan rear end with a 1jz
Sorry guys but this is a video of how not to shorten a driveshaft. You've effectively made it weak and definitely out of round, good luck with the shaking and destruction of your trans and rear end. Lmao
If vibration shows up after shortening, the GM service manual has a simple procedure using two hose clamps of the worm clamp type. Start with two side by side opposite on any weights. Test drive or place on hoist/jack stands with front wheels blocked. Have a helper run the speed back to the problem area. If vibration felt in rear fender, move the clamps opposite directions 1/4" for a total of 1/2. Stop & re-try. Once smooth, the clamp head weighs about 1/4 oz. Tach weld a 3/8 flat washer a both locations. If fixed, with clamps off, retry again. It takes about 1/2hr but can save $40+.
DK, ASE master, retired.
If the welds are good, it will be as good or stronger than the original...assuming it will be used for the original weight/torque specifications. There's nothing wrong with what he did! This driveline is just basically a pipe! He alligned the corresponding marks, cut off the piece in between, the put them back together!
I see so many people criticizing this video and even a 'wrong for so many reasons ' comment...yet why is this wrong?
Some people are saying it needs to be reinforced...you could, but its not 'reinforced' anywhere else, so once again, if the welds are good, it will be as good as the rest. If adding a sleeve, you'll also have to make sure it's balanced.
Anyways, if its slightly off, nothing terrible is going to happen, it will just cause the car to use more gas, and perhaps higher wear on the axle and transmission parts.
You should of coarse keep it as far from the center as possible, because a slight misalignment at the center will cause a much larger misalignment of the shaft...basic math...the shaft will be shaped like a 'V'.
Also, I recommend doing this on the end that goes into the axle NOT on the transmission...becuase if for whatever reason the joint comes to fail while driving (bad welds for example), the longer piece will simply slide on top of the road....but if it fails at the transmission end, it will be forced against the road and if it hits a hole, it will rip the entire rear end of the car, possibly cause the entire rear end of the car to jump up and/or cause the car to be suddenly stopped without direction....causing an accident!
Let's keep it simple and not try to be smartasses here people.
you're not going to get runout over the V block! you need to measure runout at the place where you're going to weld....
I was just going to use a hacksaw and some duct tape to shorten mine. Should be almost as good as yours.
Dazzzlah hahahaha
😂
Guys! You cant use the indicator just right over the V-block!! WRONG! You must put the V-block behind the cut and the indicator at the end!
Not what i would do at all..The weld in yokes on the ends are machined to slip fit in the tubed after being "faced off" square,therefore the run out measured in this area will most always be within a few thousands even if the pipe is bent.You should support the tube at each end next to the yokes and dial the run out as close to the weld as possible tapping the tube and adjusting run out as you tack it..my two cents
ronald bedford My point is you cant messure run out on top of a V-block what so ever. The dial indicator will be zero.
_You can't use the indicator just right over the V-block!!_
As a machinist for 35 years, I noticed this too....I hope they read your comment.
The v-block at the indicator won't allow the droop to show. On a long driveshaft the weight itself will obscure your runout too. He's effectively measuring the surface runout and/or eccentricity on the shaft. Put the indicator at the weld and run the v-block just behind the new weld.
Everything about their technique was wrong. Should have been shortened at the yoke where the original weld but is pressed into the tube. You can't just weld two bits of tube together. Good luck getting that thing balanced!
Haha dial indicator over the v block, ofcourse your not going to get any run out, but as you can see at 2:30 they had cleaned an area around the center of the shaft were I bet they originally had the v block and most likely had a shit load of run out, so moved it to make it look like it was all sweet! Fail
David Tyrrell, your profanity and confusion is not helping!
I have been doing drive shafts this way for 45 years and never had any problems Drove a 1960 Ford 50 miles with a driveshaft that had been done in a machine shop (the right way) and it vibrated the starter and generator loose had to drive 15 miles any hour when I got to the farm shop of my dad's got 2 drive lines cut and welded them and never had any problems.It was my brother-in-laws car and did not tell him for several years until he sold it.
I've done 5 or 6 myself. Even lengthened 1 by joining pieces of 2. I've always measured and marked very carefully, cut with a hacksaw and mig'ed it together. If you're sloppy you'll end up with a sloppy shaft, but if you're careful and know how to measure, cut, and weld precisely, you'll be fine. You can balance your driveshaft if necessary with a little effort with the hose clamp balancing method ruodders and racers have been using for decades. I've seen pictures of racewinning Grand National Stockcars from the early 60s with hoseclamps tackwelded in place.
The shaft in my 440 powered '66 Belvedere is a pickup shaft I shortened and balanced myself. No vibes, strong enough to take 5 years of abuse with no problems.
Nothing wrong with paying people to solve your problems for you if you choose, but most of us can solve more of our own problems than the people who want us to pay them would like us to believe
i built drive lines for 5 years form jeep to semi trucks, never ever ever do it this way.
Lot of people saying this is NOT how to shorten a DS but he did say at the start that it's only a temp shaft till they get the right one made.
I'm going to tack it put it in the truck and use the trans and rear axle as v blocks then get the dial indicator
then hold the mig gun and slowly rotate one tire to rotate the shaft to weld it in 1 run
instead of 2 minute tech, this should be "how to ruin a driveshaft in 2 minutes". Modified lots of driveshafts,narrowed rear ends,built race car chassis in my 40+ years building cars and have never seen a driveshaft shortened like that and be serviceable afterwards. it's fine for mockups but I'd never use it
I must agree with the criticism about this video. I would like to add that just drawing a line the length of the shaft will not be accurate. Laying angle iron the length of the shaft will give you a straight line.
I just lengthened a shaft kind of like that but slipped a piece of bigger shaft over it and eyeballed it. I plowed snow all winter with it and i wasnt nice to either and It held up just fine.
Excellent! You know it fits. You can now take it to a driveshaft company and ask them to make you a new one using yours as a pattern, better that bits of paper with measurements and photos.
You wrote "better that bits of paper with measurements and photos". That makes no sense in a sentence. You need to clarify what you are trying to say.
@@tucuxi70 I'm sure that* should have been than*, better than* bits of paper...
If you’re going tho do it this way use a pipe cutter to keep the cuts straight and perpendicular to the tubing. The bevel in the cut will make welding easier. Clamp it in angle iron to make the tack welds and then check runout before welding and then again after.
"How to shorten a driveshaft the wrong way."
100% NOT how you shorten a driveshaft!
John Doe show us
Agreed I'm surprised they didn't delete the comments
John Doe HELL NO!
I agree. First thing I noticed, is the way he measured runout is all wrong. Both Vees need to be on the same side of the weld. The short piece sitting in it's own Vee, is not going to indicate runout, because that side is going to run concentric with the Vee. What he is measuring, is not runout, but out of roundness!
@@terryf8755 much like spinning a bent spoon, you need to see how far that end swing is. Your words are better lol but I gets it haha
the only part of a driveshaft that is balanced is the ends where the weights are. you can lengthen or shorten it anywhere in between. the secret is to have the welds the same thickness all the way around. good if you have someone to slowly spin or turn the driveshaft between the angle iron parallels while the welder does his magic.been there done that
Should have taken a slice out of the piece you cut out and made a sleeve to slip inside the tube to reinforce it and line it up.
make that video
19504x4 Damn right
Excellent idea but you will increase the chances of being further out of balance
@@Americanrebuild you're right but it would be a stronger 'temp' solution for his rolling project
2:25 the guy at work thinks he knows everything but does this
Lol,they were serious? I thought it was a parody until it ended without a laugh.
I`ve done many of them with a framing square and a level only 2 that I remember where out of balance which was corrected with a hose clamp.... Never cut out of the center... Talk about balance problems...
Clamp two pieces of angle iron to each side to hold it straight. Always worked for me.
I never knew you could cut a drive shaft there I always thought you had to cut at a certain end and then re weld the u joint knuckle. Maybe it’s cause it’s a temp solution till he gets a new one maybe?
Lol...I enjoy the hammer and socket method. Good memories. Dad, I, and an '81 Toyota truck UV repair.
so, a thin wall pipe weld on corroded material, no backer or reinforcing sleeve?? lol, i bet the 50 mph pole vault will be quite impressive...
He used the word "temporary" .
@@rokitman5753 he should have used "nonfunctional". That is a mod suitable for mock-up, NOT actual use. A butt weld joint is the equivalent strength of notching the original material to 50% of it's thickness. He declared that tubing to be 1/16 inch wall, so that butt has the strength of 1/32 inch wall. Because he used perpendicular to axis straight cuts, that is all the strength that joint can have. Read that "guaranteed failure under actual use, almost immediately".
You CAN weld up a functional shortened driveshaft. You either have to sleeve it, or your butt joint needs to be cut into doll heads, so the weld is holding alignment but not actually subject to torsional stress (a VERY complicated cut).
Done this dozens of times with zero failures but they were only temporary or for off-road applications only where speeds are very low like 10-15 mph out in the woods...I would never do highway speed or any kind of hard launching
Cutting it down with a chop saw and welding it is great for getting it to move under its own power. Sure you don’t want to go drag racing with it. But it’s perfect for making it capable of moving.
i'm sure that works although a sleeve might be nice. still it seems way easier and safer to cut the welds that hold the yoke then shorten the driveshaft and weld the yoke back in like the factory did. i'm just a dopey shade tree mechanic with a very small fraction of the $ worth of tools and i have successfully cut down several so obviously it's not rocket science.
J clark Asbolutely a better idea than what is shown in the video! I've always used lathes to get them straight before heading to the balancer but you'd probably also be able to get a decent runout with the shaft temporarily mounted in the vehicle to check with a magnetic base dial indicator and then removing it to weld once you got good runout.
you could use a little tip. put the drive shaft between two pieces of same size angle iron. this will give you perfect alignment.
Would super gluing the joint before welding make it stronger overall?
I hear JB Weld makes a product they claim to be as good as steel once cured. Lol. Throw some aluminum tape over it and as long as noone can tell, its strong as factory...
@@Rgvkitchen good idea. I was going to use super glue but I'll try JB weld instead. Thanks mate.
If you can weld it in one pass 360, then it will not warp. Or you can do one half, flip it and continue on the other half but doing so within 2-4 sec so the pipe temperature doesn’t drop significantly.
Great show and sweet video thanks
what hapoen if the propeller shaft is a bit longer than original one? will it cause damage to gearbox?
I really liked the video, but apparently according to people in the comments this isn't exactly how it supposed to be done..
Roadkill guys need this xD. That crop duster driveshaft shortening bit lmao
So, shouldn't you purge the pipe when welding here? Or is it not as important in this application?
As someone who has dropped a driveshaft twice, and twisted another in two, I learned to pay the right place to make the one I twisted...l think it was around $130 about 20 years ago.
can anyone help me i have a question. i recently bought a foxbody drive shaft that was shortened anyone know why that is? or is it something you do for racing? please help
Shouldn't the v block be on the inside of the weld to show how much the welded on part has moved
And use the v-blocks to cut the section out. Rotate the shaft, at low speed, with a motor and belt. Just hold a cutting tool where the cuts will be. This way, both cuts will be perfectly square. Put one v-block at one end, and the other v-block inside where the cuts will be. About a foot from the end. This way, each cut will be outside the v-block. Should be almost a true shaft.
What car is the tailshaft out of
"rusted in place u joint caps", takes the caps off and there's no rust 🤔
VL_TURBO420 of course there's no rust inside the caps. The outsides of the caps usually rust stuck to the yoke
Anyone know a link to that air powered U-joint press out tool ????
Thank you for sharing! :D
I love UA-cam.....stuff like this is soooo easy to find! \m/ \m/
You do not have to do increment welding on this pipe and in fact I wouldn't recommend it. If you weld it all in one shot, it will cool at the same rate all the way around. No chance of warping. It's called "welding sequence."
You are checking the run-out in EXACTLY the wrong place. You should have the v-block set-up just behind the cut/tack-welded area. The way you have this set-up, you are ONLY checking to see how round that section of the drive-shaft is.
Looks like to me to accurately determine run out the entire shaft needs to be between centers. Measuring tube run out is inaccurate to the entire shaft. V blocks are ok for measuring on single components
The Vs need to be on the same long side of weld to see what run-out, or swing he has on the shorter welded end. Right?
That is practical for off road 4x4 stuff that has no real danger of hurting anyone. I've butt welded drive shafts clamped in angle iron and never had one fail - actually killed a D70 R&P and a 35 spline axle shaft without damaging the ghetto out of balance "ticking time bomb." The video is crap advice for a street car but good enough for a weekend trailer queen.
Yeah me too for bush buggies.
a good call for Friction Welding :)
Please tell me its possible to make like a 2” drive shaft
SBM Crew it's possible but you will have to use heavier tube
I am probably the laziest person you'll ever meet. I've hot glued holes in radiator hoses, I've ziptied broken hood latches, hell for a month and a half I used hay twine to keep my broken muffler in the right spot and even I can tell you powernation is trying to kill you. This is the definition of I have a welder so I can do anything whatsoever.
Alex Reed I've got a spark plugs jb welded in. Works good until it blows out. Then I jb well it back in. I have got 500 miles on the best and 20 feet on the worst. Helps to have plug and head clean and let set up good.
Wayne Green if it works it works lol I ain't paying over 100$ for something I can deal with for 50 cents a week lol
I have a driveshaft that has a slip built into it with flanges on each end. Can someone tell me the math on shortening it if need be? I e swapped in a new transmission and transfer case into my runner. So I have the measurement distance from output flange on case too flange on rear diff.
Then I should measure the driveshaft and have a certain amount of play in the splines.
I know you don't want it to bottom out.
So you also need to measure the distance from flange to flange at full droop of rear suspension? Is this correct?
I've always wondered the calculation on this but every website just tells you to measure the distance between flanges then send it to driveshaft shoop. That teaches me nothing....
So I need to shorten a frame 50 mm on a RWD Chevy LUV, which involves taking 50mm out of the driveshaft. Everyone says not to do it this way, so can someone please explain to me WHY you shouldn't do it this way?
Thanks
Good video
You should have used a aluminium piece of angle to set your 2 pieces back together. Not everyone is using a "true" saw.
They way your showing is the "true" cut way. Maybe both pieces should have been spun on the lathe, another tool most people don't have.
For a DIY video, more thought should have been planned out. For a cut and splice method.
if you are to cheap to spend $150 on a chop saw you should not be doing this in the first place...
Where was red green while this was going on?😆
Some day, some day I'm going to try and build a off road mini vw bug. Like a sick little Rock crawler power wheels looking toy car.
Think about it, Where you are measuring the run out does not make sense. It should be measures where the cut was made.
Nothing tech about it, they clearly do not know what the hell they are doing.
Hope this is a race car, cause I sure as hell dont want it on the same road I drive on...
That way when it lets go there will be an audience
a new weld joint and take the length off the front or back... but that's where the weights go and we don't want to have it balanced. so nah do it the pole vault way LOL
He look like he just smoked before the video started LMAO
OK where do you buy those type of aluminum V Blocks at?
they look like cylinder head stands to me.
This might be ok on a low speed deal, but id be pissed if i found that on my car. Why not true it in a lathe and use the correct end to put back on it?
So much misinformation in one video. Repeatedly calling it temporary does not excuse this. It should be taken down.
What is runout?
Zaq341 It is the amount of out of true it is. Ideally it'll be 0.000, indicating it is perfectly round(within tollerances of your machine :P), but a small amount can be tolerated by unis and CV joints.
+Rob F In this case they're are measuring how straight it is. If he welded that thing crooked, the runout would be greater indicating the shaft was no longer straight.
Rob Fletcher ok , what is unis ?
Hey, let’s spend our time making something we can’t use.
this setup is all wrong, especially the runout checking... all he was measuring there was the runout of the tube, and possobly any "wobble" introduced by the welded section. I would have rather put a sleeve in if possible, and the v blocks should have been on one side of the weld with the dial indicator on the other..
if a sleeve was cut at 90* and only a 2 to 4 inch piece needed it wouldnt affect the balance much, as well as it would provide some strength to the weld joint, and allow better control of the runout alignment.
come on guys this is basic machining....
Previous owner did this shit to my truck had to deal with 2 companies 3 drive shafts then they tell me some dumb ass put a different transmission in and shortened the shaft now I have to pay to rebuild it will be in shop for 3 fucking days if I’m lucky
Two minute tech took 3:21
I would use JB weld.
This guy should never touch a driveshaft again!
So i can cut a dirve shaft super short as long as i dont cut into the weight
ignert, boy! KABOOM!
Uhm...
Do you weld ball joints in the control arms also?
I dont understand why so many Ace drive shaft shorteners are watching this video
you watch to learn, but not much to learn in this vid.
I feel stupider for having watched this
Anyone watching this video this is the absolute worst way to shorten a driveshaft. I have 2 driveline shops and build custom high horsepower aluminum, and high horsepower steel drivelines. never cut a driveline like this and butt the tubes together there is a reason they are welded on the ends. welding it like this will make it really weak and will break the tube no matter the “penetration” you have on the weld. DONT DO THIS PLS.
I always thought that the driveshafts were solid metal, not a thin metal like that
Sure you can do it that way as long as you never use it to actually drive the vehicle any faster than about 5 miles an hour
Dena Rauch Drive shaft does not turn very fast at 5 mph. He could probably drive 40 or so before it has much viberation.
Never realized how thin driveline shafts are
I thought that was an exhaust pipe XD
I realize this is temporary but at least learn where to put the v-blocks and the indicator. I've never shortened a driveshaft before, but as a machinist of over 20 years, I can tell you you're not checking runout with the indicator over the v block. I would be embarrassed to post this video. Move the v block to the other side of the weld and see what it says.
whats wrong with dropping the differential ?! a little flaw in that welding job and your damn shaft is gone :S
All you need is $1000 worth of tools and you too can shorten a drive shaft.
...And if you do not have a welder, “Mighty Putty” should suffice.
It always costs my customers more money if they decide to shorten their own shaft. But good luck! Our driveline shop will be there to bail you out.
OMG! You don't shorten a driveshaft in the middle! WTF! You can only shorten the ends that attach to the yoke.
This guy sounds like Chris fix
This is terrible for so many reasons.
Please don't shorten driveshafts like this.
Jersey shore meets rocket power
So much fail. Insert facepalm here.
Got your indicator on the v block buddy your not going to get accurate run out your mag base indicator needs to be somewhere else maybe in the middle three different spots
567 people thought this was as funny as I did.
Hey dude! This video was awesome, i wanna do an rx7 drift build but i also have an idea for a lighter drift car i build myself, is it possible to cut a big section out of a drive shaft so i can have semi rear end drift on a nissan diff, nissan drive shaft and pretty much nissan rear end with a 1jz
Sorry guys but this is a video of how not to shorten a driveshaft. You've effectively made it weak and definitely out of round, good luck with the shaking and destruction of your trans and rear end. Lmao
Absolutely NO!
THIS can only end one way""" Death!
Omg. I don’t know what else to say about that.