Don, you are a mentor to many aspiring to learn more about machining. It is easy to see your enthusiasm for what you are doing. Thanks for taking the time to share your art.
Love the video Don. You no nonsense down to earth explanation of things is fantastic. I always learn something new from you even if it is just a small trick so to speak. Thanks for sharing Don.
i wish the art form was still alive at my shop. Thats the kind of stuff that got me interested in machining. I would love to work for person like Don. great stuff
A fantastic and much needed video series. Also here in Holland the education is at a terrible level, companies need to train people themselves. But the margins are generally thin and once people start working, training is often not the top priority. One of our suppliers actually has the oficially retired (aged 66) owner of the business still working on the manual and CNC lathes for single pieces and small series because they cannot find a new man. I have always taken a great interest in manufacturing, I think you cannot be a good engineer without this knowledge and the ability to talk to suppliers down to a detail level and match the design with the actual machine and man capabilities. I especially see a lot of GD&T mismatches between what our (big) customers come up with and what the supplier can reasonably achieve. Privately, I occasionally buy old machines, recently picked up a 1955 Schaublin 102 VM, with special factory option 3-speed motor/ 4000 rpm spindle rpm. Also a full set of collets, chucks etc. The machine was privately owned by 1 owner for 42 years and only used occasionally all this time. Really a rare find!
You can actually hear the influence of the turning on the fixture transferring to the part/wheel. Difficult to avoid unless you have an independent drive. I have the identical unit & a Harig as well. Both good units. I'm curious what that unit retails for these days with the vee block? Thanks Don, cheers.
I have a homemade Brown and Sharpe dead center I made for my dividing head, now that I heat treated it I need to either hard turn or grind the center again. I havent yet decided how I want to do that, but this method sure looks easy. Problem is the surface grinder is the only tool out of all them you used I have so hard turning is looking more likely. Either way I will do a video on how it turns out.
I use this method to grind shut off needles in sprue bushes then check the shutoff angle with blue before taking off the thermal standoff thanks Robert
How would you put a .250 diameter circle on the end instead of a point. Just deck it off? I thought I found the end of the internet for learning machine but wow you can feel the knowledge with this guy his teaching is addictive love it
In addition to maybe selecting the wrong gauge blocks, another reason to check the correct 60 degree angle is if the piece is not at the bottom of the wheel when ground the angle will be incorrect. I like to find the bottom of the wheel before locking the table just to be sure.
Excellent demo but, who need a setup like that and what are the critical situations when you need such accuracy apart from in manufacture? Btw, can you recommend a simple easy to make drill-bit grinder?
I love seeing the tools you guys produce, in use. Such great designs! I have a "universal" Tool & Cutter grinder that I just finished cleaning and tuning up. But I don't have any of the jigs and fixtures to make it useful beyond flat grinding. (It does have a permanent magnetic chuck.) Do you guys make anything for that? Like for sharpening end mills, drill bits, router bits, saw blades, etc., etc.? If not is there a manufacturer you can recommend? Thanks!
It's possible to learn a lot of what it takes to be a machinist by watching these videos. In fact, it'd be difficult to watch Don's videos and not learn how to be a good machinist. UA-cam has the potential to replace the disappearing journeyman trade education. I'd like to see the view counter in the thousands. We can tell a lot about our culture by seeing which videos people watch. Frankly, I'm embarrassed for my culture.
I guess tc is tool cutter? I need to get one the way I do it now is very time consuming, after turning in lathe I cut the flutes .04 deep, harden put back in spindex and cut the last .040 on surface grinder with .60" cone stone then to lathe to cut final dim. And relief with a tool post grinder cutting the releif is the hardest part to get wright.
+Danny Chavez Yes, technically, but you would probably want a TC grinder for that. You would want the swivel table to grind the relief after the nose of the reamer.
I came here hoping to see how to grind a centre-point on an 8 mm drill with a 200 dollar bench drill and an angle grinder but good to watch nontheless. All you gotta do now is drill into the end of the workpiece a perfect 60 degree taper hole for the lathe centre.
Don: Could you do one just on centers, their selection., advantages, disadvantages... I am 35+ years into the shop. But, I just haven't used solid centers, 1/2 centers... stuff you do. My favorite is a spring center in the lathe. It allows for stock creep, and thermal expansion. But, I don't know the finer points of centers. Thanks!!!! Mark
another poor man's method if you don't have a sine plate remove wheel guard, you will need a 30deg angle block to line up your whirly on magnet crank wheel down to center of wheel to center line of part , you will be grinding with the side of the wheel instead of bottom and feeding sideways with table stops as in feed. , if accuracy of center is criticle, move wheelhead up or down in the spark out spin
Don, you are a mentor to many aspiring to learn more about machining. It is easy to see your enthusiasm for what you are doing. Thanks for taking the time to share your art.
Love the video Don. You no nonsense down to earth explanation of things is fantastic. I always learn something new from you even if it is just a small trick so to speak. Thanks for sharing Don.
i wish the art form was still alive at my shop. Thats the kind of stuff that got me interested in machining. I would love to work for person like Don. great stuff
A fantastic and much needed video series.
Also here in Holland the education is at a terrible level, companies need to train people themselves. But the margins are generally thin and once people start working, training is often not the top priority. One of our suppliers actually has the oficially retired (aged 66) owner of the business still working on the manual and CNC lathes for single pieces and small series because they cannot find a new man.
I have always taken a great interest in manufacturing, I think you cannot be a good engineer without this knowledge and the ability to talk to suppliers down to a detail level and match the design with the actual machine and man capabilities. I especially see a lot of GD&T mismatches between what our (big) customers come up with and what the supplier can reasonably achieve.
Privately, I occasionally buy old machines, recently picked up a 1955 Schaublin 102 VM, with special factory option 3-speed motor/ 4000 rpm spindle rpm. Also a full set of collets, chucks etc. The machine was privately owned by 1 owner for 42 years and only used occasionally all this time. Really a rare find!
Nice too see someone else does this been doing it for years works really well good video
Excellent Explanation Sir -
Practical info! I like those I have watched. Up beat presentation, quick for my short attention span,15-20 min suitable for me.
Great video, thanks for sharing :)
Don, I'd like to see what happened to the .0004 of eccentricity at your set up. did it transfer to the part? did you check?
You can actually hear the influence of the turning on the fixture transferring to the part/wheel. Difficult to avoid unless you have an independent drive. I have the identical unit & a Harig as well. Both good units. I'm curious what that unit retails for these days with the vee block? Thanks Don, cheers.
I have a homemade Brown and Sharpe dead center I made for my dividing head, now that I heat treated it I need to either hard turn or grind the center again. I havent yet decided how I want to do that, but this method sure looks easy. Problem is the surface grinder is the only tool out of all them you used I have so hard turning is looking more likely. Either way I will do a video on how it turns out.
bcbloc02 If your B&S tilts, just use that as the sine plate mounted to surface grinder, with dead center mounted it situ.
Rick Brandt
Good idea Rick, but it is way to tall to pass under the grinder wheel on my grinder then.
Dear Mr. Bailey delightful video as always :) best regards! :)
I was just telling one of the apprentices in the tool room about Don’s videos and he told me that yeah I’ve seen them they showed it in our class :-)
Awesome, thank you for watching.
I use this method to grind shut off needles in sprue bushes then check the shutoff angle with blue before taking off the thermal standoff thanks Robert
You're welcome Robert, thank you for watching!
Great video. How would you go about grinding a "live" or rotating center?
How would you put a .250 diameter circle on the end instead of a point. Just deck it off? I thought I found the end of the internet for learning machine but wow you can feel the knowledge with this guy his teaching is addictive love it
Thank you for watching!
In addition to maybe selecting the wrong gauge blocks, another reason to check the correct 60 degree angle is if the piece is not at the bottom of the wheel when ground the angle will be incorrect. I like to find the bottom of the wheel before locking the table just to be sure.
Excellent demo but, who need a setup like that and what are the critical situations when you need such accuracy apart from in manufacture? Btw, can you recommend a simple easy to make drill-bit grinder?
I have been a grinder / machinist for most my life and love the field i am seeing so much knowledge lost
Keep up the great work bud
I love seeing the tools you guys produce, in use. Such great designs!
I have a "universal" Tool & Cutter grinder that I just finished cleaning and tuning up. But I don't have any of the jigs and fixtures to make it useful beyond flat grinding. (It does have a permanent magnetic chuck.) Do you guys make anything for that? Like for sharpening end mills, drill bits, router bits, saw blades, etc., etc.? If not is there a manufacturer you can recommend?
Thanks!
It's possible to learn a lot of what it takes to be a machinist by watching these videos. In fact, it'd be difficult to watch Don's videos and not learn how to be a good machinist. UA-cam has the potential to replace the disappearing journeyman trade education. I'd like to see the view counter in the thousands. We can tell a lot about our culture by seeing which videos people watch. Frankly, I'm embarrassed for my culture.
***** The problem is that everyone wants the goods delivered right in their plates, ready for consumption... At least most people... ;-)
Im embRrased too
Which is the maker of attachment - mean center grinder
Are you referring to the Master-Grind Index Fixture? www.subtool.com/st/mg5cvs1_master-grind_spin_index_fixture.html
Great video Don. Can you give me the actual part number of the NORTON stone you were using? Thanks for all you do!
Chuck Castiglione
Production Tool # MH6486770 - INDIA FILES 1/8 x 1 x 4 Knife
Stones, Fine - $10.49 ea.
I didn't read all the comments, so I hope this is hot been asked before, but what is the resolution of the optical comparitor (sp)?
I guess tc is tool cutter? I need to get one the way I do it now is very time consuming, after turning in lathe I cut the flutes .04 deep, harden put back in spindex and cut the last .040 on surface grinder with .60" cone stone then to lathe to cut final dim. And relief with a tool post grinder cutting the releif is the hardest part to get wright.
When I'm using the grind all. I like to have it just a bit left of center. So it doesn't get sucked under the wheel
Great video by the way
Thank you for watching!
Can reamers be made on surface grinders?
Danny Chavez
Yes
but difficult.
+Danny Chavez Yes, technically, but you would probably want a TC grinder for that. You would want the swivel table to grind the relief after the nose of the reamer.
grinding dust doesn't land on the Jo blocks and ruined them? Mine, Mitutoyo, being burr with nothing.
why slide it on?
Don thank you
Mr. Don the first one was off. You didn’t have to worry about drawing another😂😂😂😂😂
Hi Don, How about grinding the angle on a live center?
Mike
Not recommended because of the potential run out of a live center, you dont get that with a dead center.
I came here hoping to see how to grind a centre-point on an 8 mm drill with a 200 dollar bench drill and an angle grinder but good to watch nontheless. All you gotta do now is drill into the end of the workpiece a perfect 60 degree taper hole for the lathe centre.
Don:
Could you do one just on centers, their selection., advantages, disadvantages...
I am 35+ years into the shop. But, I just haven't used solid centers, 1/2 centers... stuff you do.
My favorite is a spring center in the lathe. It allows for stock creep, and thermal expansion.
But, I don't know the finer points of centers.
Thanks!!!!
Mark
Mark Richardson We will add this to our list of up coming videos Mark. Thanks for watching.
Only the shadow knows.
another poor man's method if you don't have a sine plate
remove wheel guard, you will need a 30deg angle block to line up your whirly on magnet crank wheel down to center of wheel to center line of part , you will be grinding with the side of the wheel instead of bottom and feeding sideways with table stops as in feed. , if accuracy of center is criticle, move wheelhead up or down in the spark out spin