How to Wash Dry and Lube a Vintage Singer Model 403A Sewing Machine
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- KRUD KUTTER CLEANER LINK: www.rustoleum....
THE MUST FOR RUST LINK: www.rustoleum....
TRI-FLOW OIL LINK: www.triflowlub...
TRI-FLOW GREASE LINK: www.triflowlub...
PLAYLIST OF 403A VIDEOS: • Regina, a SINGER SLANT...
How to clean and degrease a vintage sewing machine using Krud Kutter Cleaner and Degreaser. Pre-treat with Krud Kutter, wash in the shower or tub with Krud Kutter and dry with a leaf blower or hairdryer. Remove decades of old grease, oil, smoke, smells, and general crud. A step-by-step process. Remove rust using "The must for rust" by Rustoleum. Fast rust removal. Oil with Tri-Flow oil and grease the gears with Tri-flow grease. A tutorial. Once-in-a-lifetime cleaning and degreasing. Clean, fresh and smelling good.
MUSIC: Men at Work by the 126ers
Truly amazing, impeccable job by a real pro. No one is more knowledgeable than Andy, my friends. Name someone who treats a sewing machine with such skill and passion more than Andy Tube...that's right! You can't, because Andy Tube is the BEST!!🏆 Thank you, sir, for sharing your expertise and restoring another vintage machine that will now provide many more years of sewing enjoyment to its proud owner!
Hey, take it easy, hehe. I'm blushing, but thanks for the compliments! I think I do a good job of helping people to fix and maintain their vintage Singer and that is enough for me (although I do accept donations ) I appreciate that you watch my channel and take time to comment. Very kind of you, Piper. Thanks again.
@@andytubesewing1953 How can we donate.$ ? I was looking for the "contribute $". or the "buy me a coffee" button.? didn't see any.. You've helped so many of us, we should help you a little in return.. I have recently found your channel, and I do have positive comments on all of the ones that I've watched so far, I'm probably getting a little over the top, lol.. but I have to say how fantastic you are at showing us how to clean and restore these vintage Singers. You do have a great talent for teaching. You are brilliant, yet humble, and a good personality to boot.. and more comments might help with the algorithms so more people will see the videos.? I couldn't have finished my 237 as easily without your help... "Mia" is all repaired, cleaned, oiled, adjusted, and running smoothly, ah ziggin and ah zaggin. with VERY beautiful stitches; never misses a beat. Thank you. And yes,, I will probably thank you a few more times.
I finally figured out how to donate. the three dots to the right of the share button..
Wonderful teaching lesson once again. So glad you take the time to show what you are doing.
Thank you very much.
Love everything you do! You are inspiring me and others! Thank you for all you do
You are so welcome! It's kind of you to comment. Thank you for saving your machine. Take Care.
Thanks for your instructions. The 403 I had was filthy. You gave me the confidence to take the parts off and do this cleaning. It was satisfying getting the grunge out, clean it up and lubricating it. Spinning the hand wheel I could feel the smoothness of the drive train. Loved it. I had a couple issues getting some parts back in but just took my time till I figured it out. My hat is off to you being able to work around a camera. My 403 has paint and electrical issues and will likely never be used to sew with. I now have clean parts for future use. I have a 401 a 411 and 2X 301’s to give the spa treatment and I have the confidence to do it. My 401 had motor hesitation problems but I followed your motor service video and it works great now. I have a 201-2 and some 15-91’s that I would like to take out the parts in the nose to clean up. My goal is to get some/most of my vintage machines cleaned up and stitching properly. I liked zeroing out the upper tension, while I’ve cleaned up this area before I didn’t know to do that.
Oh one thing. Putting the needle bar, presser bar and vibrating needle parts was a bit confusing getting it all back together. I struggled as to what order to put parts back. I got it though 😀
Congratulations! It is surprising the gunk that washes out of these vintage machines but I sure love how they look and feel afterward. Many of the 403A parts are interchangeable with the 401A, 404 and even some of them can be used on the 500A and 503A. It was a good practice machine for you and you'll enjoy the simplicity of the 301A without the vibrating bracket and ZZ system. It is mostly simpler than even the 404 b/c the 301A only has the one gear set. Never have worked on a 201 or the model 15, although I have had people tell me they think the 201-2 is the finest machine SInger ever made. I'm glad you worked out the nose-end parts. On one of the first Rocketeers, I did I was so proud of myself for doing such a great job on the presser bar system ( first time I did a dial) and the bracket and needle bar. Then I realized I forgot to reinstall the take-up lever system, haha. By the time I had it back together, I could have done the whole front end while blindfolded. Best fo luck with your other machines then, and take care.
It’s me again, Andy! We found another 403A (for $15!); it was covered with grime both inside out. I was much more relaxed doing the body wash on this machine than the one I did 2 years ago. Before the wash, the main axle was stiff to turn and it was even stiffer after the wash and dry. After the wash and dry, I kept at adding oil to the main oil ports. I got every oil port to flow oil freely through it except the oil port near the hand wheel that oils the main shaft. I kept adding oil remembering your advice to not worry about wasting oil, because it’s worth it! Finally, oil flowed freely and the hand wheel loosened up, and now turns freely! It looked like someone had put black grease down this oil port. Thanks for the whole series on the 403A, which of course I’m watching all over again.
Wow, best price ever!! I'm glad you persisted. I have found grease a couple of times in that same port. It takes more oil for a longer time than when it is just dried oil. Many greases are oil with a thickener, like wax, and when it dries it just dries in a thicker layer so it takes longer for the cleaner or new oil to soften and penetrate. Thanks so much for saving another machine.🙏 No way could you have passed up a $15 Queen of Singer ZZ machines Model 403A ✨
You’ve done such a great job cleaning that machine! Thank you for sharing your invaluable knowledge. I do really appreciate it!
You are so welcome!
In this day of unrest, yours is a calm, soothing voice of experience. When I get my 403a tomorrow, I'm going to give it a good looking at and see if I need to apply some of your wisdom to my new/old machine. Please keep making videos and sharing your many years of experience.
Thank you! It is very rewarding to work on these machines and try to help others work on theirs. It can be like a meditation at times, you and machine. Remember, I do not sew at all but I feel some of how my wife loves sewing and crafting and creating. It is all good, peaceful, and rejuvenating I guess. Don't forget to browse thru the instruction manual for a little light reading. So much good information to help you enjoy the machine. Excited for you. Have fun, and take care.
Today was my second time watching. Very thorough and clear explainations ! Thank you for doing this.
Welcome. You can do this type of cleaning and you'll love the results of a clean, well-oiled machine. It's kind of you to comment. Take care.
Thorough as usual. Thank you!
Thanks for watching it.
Good idea using the paint brushes for cleaner and grease application
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this informative video!!!
Thanks for watching my channel, Claudia.
@@andytubesewing1953 i recently purchased this machine at a thrift store and it's a beauty! I am doing all the yucky cleaning inside the machine where bugs happily lived 😳 again, thank you for all the step by step video!
@@puzzles2me I hope you love the machine. It's my favorite Heavy Duty Singer Straight Stitch Machine. Good luck, and thanks for saving that machine.
Thank you so much for this! I now feel prepared for battle!
You can do it, Cheryl. I have found using a lower concentration of the KK Cleaner works as well and can cause less chance of any flash rust. Thanks for watching my channel.
Andy, love watching your videos and have learned so much from you! I have a question. Just got a 500 that needs a wash, dry, lube and really don't want to dissassemble to this extent. How much (little) should I remove to do a good job and not leave me overwhelmed with a million parts? Many many thanks for your videos!
If you do more pretreating like this video and have everything ready to wash, super dry and heavily oil the machine this is how I have cleaned machines like the 500A.
Remove all three covers and remove the motor. That's it! During pretreat protect the paint b/c the KK will dull it. Yes, I leave all the wiring and even the light bulb in place. Scary? If you rinse in very well with a good force and dry, dry, dry some more, then get oil back into all the bearings and bushings right away that's it, the covers and the motor. Well, you can pop off the pattern disc from the camstack. Turn the tension to zero. Lift and lower the presser bar during the wash and rinse and dry, occasionally turn the handwheel until you can't (washing it can remove all the oil and the shafts can freeze-up) When you start to dry it, remove the light bulb and don't forget to blow air into the terminals (where cords plug into). Can't stress enough to pretreat and super dry and oil right away. Have your oil locations directions handy. Over oil the bearings to flush out any KK pr water residue. You can wipe up excess oil when finished. NO OIL ON GEARS or the grease won't stick. If the handwheel won't turn after washing and drying just keep oiling the bearings. Instead of one or two drops of oil like normal maintenance you may need 20 or 30 b/c you washed it all out of the reservoir.
Thanks for the question of the week, and good luck.
I like the instructions you gave to KG Crowe. I’m not comfortable taking my 401 apart to the extent you did in this video. I’ll look for your video showing how to remove the motor and just take the top and and faceplate off and clean and dry, dry, dry as you recommended. Not ready to do it yet.
It will get 90% of all the old gunk out of the machine. Of course, you remove the bottom plate too. Spending time on the work table to pretreat and scrub the worst areas really pays off. We call it the "Kwik Klean with Krud Kutter" method and that is how my wife does it. She has no interest in removing all those parts if they are not broken. Drying the plugs and light socket well eliminates any residual moisture for when you run the machine later after lubrication. You may be surprised how much crud and old oil comes out of most machines. Best wishes for a clean machine, and thanks for watching my channel.
The green is the oxidation because of the copper plate, they should have done the plates in stainless steel
i have seen another chanel where to unseize the machine, it was badly jammed, they let it soak in a bath of oil, for almost a week..finaly got it to move! good luck!
No kidding? That's a lot of oil! I guess I'm helping save the planet by using less than an ounce of oil? I'll have to tell my granddaughter I'm "being green" then. Thank you for watching, Dan, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I should specify thats it was a small pail where they soaked it in!!loll! but im sure to her, You're the Jolly Green ! ;-)
@@danmorrissette4814 Haha, ok then, so not a 5-gallon bucket? Dang, I had that picture set in my head all evening!
@@andytubesewing1953 hahaha!
Hi Andy. Thanks for such a thorough video. It's really helpful. Thanks for showing how to keep calm if the machine "freezes". which it most likely will. Methodical and careful greasing and oiling is needed after washing and drying. I have a couple of questions. What was your reasoning for leaving the stitch width-feed regulator system in the machine while you washed, dried and lubed? Also, what is the advantage of leaving the horizontal arm shaft counter balance in? I removed it when I took the hand wheel off, but it looks like if I put it back on before washing, drying and lubing, it might give some balancing advantage as I try to get the machine moving during lubing. I'm getting everything set up and ready to do this big task. I won't start for a few days, and I most likely will watch the whole video again before I start.
Good questions, Carole. When I did the video about removing & replacing the regulator I cleaned the regulator while it was out of the machine. I did not want to remove and replace it again for this video. I have cleaned many machines with the regulator in place by scrubbing it with a brush and the Krud Kutter and it gets very clean that way. I did not remove the counterbalance for this restoration. When I removed the handwheel the counterbalance was mostly clean and dry so I just pre-cleaned it before washing in the shower. When I see a very dirty/greasy counterbalance or any rust in the area I do remove it to clean it better. I have washed, dried and lubed machines both way, with the CB on and off, and as far as turning the shaft during oiling after the wash it has not made much difference. A few viewers have told me one of the first things they do after wash/dry is put the CB and handwheel back on the machine so they are able to have a good grip on it to turn the shaft as they start oiling the machine after washing. I'm saying it is really up to you what you like or feel comfortable with. Take care.
Done and did the wash, dry and lube! My machine is so beautiful now. I can't resist just staring at the cleaned and oiled insides. I've reinstalled the feed-regulator system and the counter balance, so I'm right with you now. I eagerly await your upcoming videos.
@@carolemagnusson5044 Nicely done, Carole! I hope you had a good time. I have done so many wash & drys you'd think I'd be bored doing them, but seeing that like-new shine and smell is really rewarding. I love turning the handwheel and feeling how well Singer made the machine. I have most of the parts back on and will be showing how I grease the disc driving worm wheel b/c I only described how to do that in the DDWW video. I'll also be showing how to check and set the timing of the worm wheel. I need to set the stroke and tension of the needle thread tension unit, then I'll be continuing on from those videos. Thanks so much for watching and for restoring a beautiful machine.
excellent video, as usual! Why do you have white string running through the machine--to fish wires back in?
Yes, correct. In a previous video I tied the string to the wire then pulled thru the wire leaving the string in the wire "tunnel". Pulling the wire back thru using the string is just easier than shoving the wire thru the tunnel. Thanks for asking, and for watching my channel.
Recently learned how WD 40 came about. WD stands for water dispersal and was invented to keep things in the space capsule from being damaged by condensation. You guessed it it was the 40th formula that worked.
sharing historic trivia on my channel? I love it and thanks very much.👍
This is great. Thanks, Andy!
Glad you liked it!
My needle bar and bobbin do not move when turning the wheel. Bobbin winder works great, then I tighten it and push foot pedal and I can hear motor and light is on but the needle bar does not move or bobbin either when I move hand wheel.
OK, this comment is more clear than your other one about the handwheel. A machine that has sat idle for years/decades is often frozen. This is usually due to dried oil on the needle bar bushing and/or the shaft bushings. The dried oil is like varnish or glue. Do thorough and complete oiling of the machine (skip the grease part) and heat the bushing areas with a hairdryer. This can soften the old oil and let the new oil penetrate. You can follow this video and just do the parts where I use the bottle of oil. You can also see where to oil in the instruction manual which is free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403a
So oil it well, heat it well, and call me in the morning. Good luck.
After I wash and clean Chuck, In what order should I re-assemble Chuck back together? I removed everything. Thank you! Andy!
So be sure you oil & grease before any assembly. I usually just reverse the sequence that I used taking the parts off, but it is only critical on a couple of items. For example, you want to put the take-up lever on before the needle & presser bars or you won't be able to get it back on. You have to have the Vibrating Bracket on to install the needle bar, etc. Mostly after that, you can just choose a part/system and go for it. I usually wait until the end to put the motor and light shade on b/c I keep handling and moving the machine around during assembly. I assume you saw the entire playlist for this model and how to remove/replace the parts? ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html You can reverse that list for reassembly if you like. Thanks for saving the machine, and for watching my channel. Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 i am oiling and greasing everything before assembly. Even used the rust liquid to remove any. But thank you for telling me what is critical to install first. Thank you!
@@puzzles2me Surely welcome. I'm here if questions arise. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 hi Andy, I need a new link for the LED light bulb and do you have a video on taking the for pedal apart to clean it? Thank you much! If I don't get this right, can I mail you Chuck? 🧐😄
@@puzzles2me LED BULBS: www.ebay.com/itm/382310451625?hash=item59037a89a9:g:05IAAOSw-wJaMsRJ
Getting hard to find good-fitting LED bulbs at this time, buy them quickly. Here is the complete playlist for the foot pedal restoration: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
Hi.wath is the principal component or liquid of the krud kutter or tell.me another liquid to clean the machine.with the brush.
Trisodium Salt = 1 to 3%, Ethoxylated Alcohol = 1 to 3%, Sodium Metasilicate Pentahydrate = 1 to 3%, Water = 90 to 97%.
You can see the Material Safety Data Sheet Here images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/7c/7cc64e32-46fb-4f3e-92d8-552467835ff8.pdf Here is the product web page that has the ingredient list: www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter/
This is an "alkaline" type cleaner. Any product there in Peru that is for removing grease would work. Try dish soap if that is all you can find. You may have to scrub harder. Good Luck with your 500A, Freddy. 👍 Por cierto, Freddy, puedes comentar en español si quieres 😊
Hola Andy.esta 500a fue mi primera maquina .en mi taller.y despues nechi ,singer 20u,y comenze a trabajar con maq industriales.han pasado 30años y aprovecho la cuarentena para destrabar mis primeras maquinas familiares q estaban guardadas.gracias a Dios aprendi usar mi celular a los 62 años.y descubri su canal.ahora soy su hincha.y aprendo bastante.pero con mucho esfuerzo para traducir casi todo al español.hoy comenzare a lavar y aceitar mi 500a y lo pondre en mi sala de adorno.mil gracias desde Peru.
@@freddyrios2280 Espero que el trabajo en su 500A haya ido bien. Estoy feliz de que hayas encontrado mi canal y agradezco tus comentarios. Aquí hay una sugerencia que podría ayudarlo a disfrutar aún más de mis videos. Puede activar la función de subtítulos en el video y cambiar el idioma de inglés a español. Luego, cuando veas el video, la traducción al español de mis palabras aparecerá en la parte inferior de la pantalla. Aquí hay un video de UA-cam que muestra cómo activar los subtítulos y cambiar el idioma: ua-cam.com/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/v-deo.html
Where do you live, I want my 774 singer look like that and work so wonderful, I live in Florida
2,200 miles away, but you can do the cleaning yourself. Thanks for the interest, but I'm not working right now.
I’m working on a 411g. I have it ready to do the spa treatment. I got everything off except the take up lever. Couldn’t get the screw out so thought I would just leave it in. The drive mechanism was rotating fine at that time. I had to stop working for the night and the next day the drive system was locked up. It moves about 2 degrees only. I’ve moved all the levers and controls to try and get it moving. Spent over an hour but no luck. Any idea what I can try? Your help would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance
Drive system? Like none of the shafts or gears will turn? Have you done any washing or pretreating the machine at all before you stopped? The wash, dry and lube are meant to be done all in a row and at once. Leaving the take-up lever in is fine unless you bent it or something. I have washed a dozen machines with the lever in place, no problem. After washing and drying it is normal for the machine to "lock-up" or "freeze" until you oil it completely. If you washed and dried and left overnight before oiling it will really be frozen. I've never had a machine lock up before washing it, ever. When it is frozen for whatever reason and I plan on washing it with Krud Kutter I just take off as many parts as I can and wash and dry it, then start oiling the heck out of it, oi, oil, oil. The 411 may be close enough to the 403A in mechanics that following the video for oiling may be enough. (I've never seen a 411G in person) You can also go here and download a free copy of the Singer Instruction Mqnual for Model 411 and start on page 64 and follow the oiling instructions.
www.singer.com/search/support?title=411
No need to grease it yet, just put oil wherever it shows too. Usually, once the oil has been in for awhile you can start rocking the handwheel or arm shaft back and forth a little bit to help get things going. DO NOT force anything, just rocking or turning a little. If it's not moving in an hour you can use a hairdryer on low heat to help thin the oil, but it gets a little messy as you blow around the shafts and gears. Do not skip any oil ports. Do use sewing machine oil only; nothing else.
The only other thing I can think of is a screw that got dropped somewhere and is hung up in the worm screw or other moving parts.
Thanks for your reply. I have not washed it yet. It was rotating fine when I left it. I didn’t drop any screws, but it does feel like something is jammed in a gear. I have oiled it but will do a more thorough job. I want it rotating before I clean it. I’ll check the gears again. Maybe try my air compressor down in the worm gear. I have the cam stack out would that cause binding? Thanks
@@vsmetc7305 I don't see how removing the cam stack could cause a jam. I was thinking if you left the take-up lever in that maybe the Needlebar Connecting Link got wedged into the side of the nose. Really grasping at straws here. With the cam stack out you should be able to see the worm gear. I wish I had an answer but never had a working machine lock-up after removing parts but before washing it. Good Luck.
The needle bar is out and I know what you mean about the connecting gear because before when I rotated the main shaft it would sometime hit the machine body. I didn’t think the cam shaft would cause binding/lockup. When I did my 403 machine I Han no problem. I will let you know if I get it resolved
@@vsmetc7305 Yes please do let me know cuz it's quite a puzzle and in case someone else ever asks about it I'd be able to have an answer That's kind of you thank you
Where do you get all the brushes and or what are their names please?
I bought most of them at the 99 cent store down the road. They don't have a web site, so here are some examples of the brushes.
metal (wire) detail brush www.harborfreight.com/steel-detail-brush-69525.html?cid=paid_google|||69525&gclid=CjwKCAiAu8SABhAxEiwAsodSZEeBm-qAIoPg-ImlGfMkxHaF5KSoaozjvdeXXexfIsc0SeR93reoTRoCWuAQAvD_BwE
Wheel brushes: www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-wheel-grill-brush-2-pc-60586.html?cid=paid_google|||60586&gclid=CjwKCAiAu8SABhAxEiwAsodSZPntJ6Y70w8rY3iBnZc92vmLE6zOLxbVYXQuievI8E5QMh3Q06bwxRoCb7cQAvD_BwE
Paintbrush set (mine is from Walmart but looked a lot like this) www.michaels.com/super-value-50pc-brush-set-by-artists-loft-necessities/10504534.html?r=g&cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_Shopping_US_N_Art+Supplies_N_Smart_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-9972406790_adg-106296476328_ad-433378147599_pla-1006894698161_dev-c_ext-_prd-10504534&gclid=CjwKCAiAu8SABhAxEiwAsodSZPSCLFHKtYAa8hIirwQzvI6L6aBmlsh1_zqha3YiDGP1Gb7ULlJ5IhoCIv4QAvD_BwE
Tube brush set is similar to this, Walmart, Amazon: www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-tube-pipe-nylon-brush-set-90631.html?cid=paid_google|||90631&gclid=CjwKCAiAu8SABhAxEiwAsodSZF9ghvVI55kcE7L8hFleknNmiGJqtMB5lr7n6Kd9I0S4LtMzrNMfRxoCqgoQAvD_BwE
Because I use it for cleaning, I buy the cheapest brushes I can find.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much! Do you have a video showing how you took out the electrical please? I just got a Singer 328K. Its smelly and dirty. I'm new at cleaning VSM but want to do it right so I can start sewing😊.
@@dianevega883 I don't have videos of that exact model, but here are 3 Playlists totaling about 70 videos of sister machines with mostly the same setup. All kinds of videos for cleaning, removing and replacing parts, changing belts, working on motors, all the good stuff. I think they will give you a way forward with your "new" 328K. Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel. MODEL 327K: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html
MODEL 338: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKK4y8dsq3oMKJFTGsoNJWmi.html
MODEL 337: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you sew much for your help and time!😊
@@dianevega883 Good luck.
Soooooooo. . . . . What’s the advice when my poor machine is still seized? 🤦🏼♀️😬 It was fine. I did pre-treat it several days ago (kiddo doesn’t give me much time to do hobbies). I did the rest of the wash this morning. I didn’t try to see if it was frozen before the wash. It’s definitely frozen during/after wash and dry. I’ve oiled up all the ports. Probably a few hours ago. Still it won’t budge. . . . 🤦🏼♀️ I swear this machine has been so much more trouble than my 404. Lol. All the parts were practically glued on too. 😝
I also checked to make sure it wasn’t the thread take up parts wedged in funny too. And I’ve reinstalled the spring for the cover plate so it isn’t that screw either. Won’t move at all. Not even a mm.
Sooooo... @00:50 in the first minute of the video I explain that you want to pretreat, then wash, dry, and oil right away in one process. I mention that a couple more times in the video. That is to prevent what you have now. The longest I have ever waited to wash it was about 9 hours overnight the evening my water heater blew a hole in the side. It was a real effort to get the machine moving again after that. I really don't know what to expect if you left it for several days. I'm sure it was frozen before you washed it. It is a strong degreaser and you see in the video it can cause some flash rusting. That's after being on for a few minutes. Maybe you have rusted all the bearings to the shafts after several days? With my overnight machine, I had to heat all the oiling places with a hairdryer and keep adding oil every few hours. It took almost 24 hours before it broke free and started moving. Once it did start then it recovered very quickly and went on to be a normal running and working machine. So it is a dilemma now. I was going to suggest you put the rust remover into the oil ports, but it does not work to remove rust if the part has oil on it. I guess you could was the machine again to flush the oil out of the oil ports, then dry, then use a rust remover, then wash, dry, and oil it again. Whew! That is too much. All I can say is to heat the oiling areas of the main shafts and metal parts and add oil a few more times. Be sure you oil those main shaft oiling ports very well. I show the oiling starting @54:40 in the video. If you miss even one of those ports the machine will stay frozen. One frozen spot on the machine stops all movement. You can also download the instruction manual from Singer here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403a It may be easier for you to see the oiling instructions on pages 89-90-91 than suffer thru my video oiling instructions.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks. That’s what I get for fast forwarding. 🤦🏼♀️ I’ll try the dryer first. It wouldn’t be so bad if it has to be rewashed. At least it’s clean now so it’d be more of a flushing than a scrub. Though, I didn’t really use much krud kutter during the pretreat. I’d be really surprised if it was rusted badly as I didn’t notice any rust whatsoever until after the spa treatment and dry. Just on small parts that I’d kept removed. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the rescue tips.
@@andytubesewing1953 also the feed dog shafts move. I can get the bottom gears to wiggle a tiny bit.
@@cassiestephens7381 Ok then good luck, and please be sure you have oiled all 6 main shaft bushings plus the hook shaft bushing under the hook.