Balsa dimensions: The balsa strips were all 1/16" thick, and were either 1/8", 3/16" or 1/4" wide depending on location. In terms of length I just laid them over where I wanted them and marked with a knife where I would need to cut - once I had one I then just lined it up next to the strip to cut a ton more the same length. 1/4" - pretty much only the two strips surrounding the magnets on the inside of walls. 3/16" - all other horizontal strips, the central vertical strips on walls and surrounding doors, the diagonal strips on triangle roof tiles. Oh and the pieces I used to line the holes I cut for doors and windows. 1/8" - the vertical strips on wall edges and bordering windows, and the diagonal strips on walls, doors and windows. Wall Tile dimensions: The foam for the tiles was all 3/8" thick, or 10mm in metric. Technically they're not exactly the same but it doesn't make a difference here. Otherwise they were 3" wide and 2" tall, just like all other wall tiles. Roof dimensions: Check out the roof video for these, the only real difference is I cut them from balsa. Column dimensions: These were made from two sizes of foam block, one was a 1/2" cube. The other was 5/8" wide and deep, but still 1/2" tall. Basically just enough to make it stick out a bit on two sides. Sealant mix: I show making this mixture in full in my war camp scatter terrain video, but basically the mix is 50/50 Pva glue and acrylic matte medium, mixed about 10:1 with water so it's thin and drippable/sprayable. In this case I also mixed the result about 50/50 with isopropyl alcohol to help it break the surface tension and soak into the grout mix.
Quick question Matt. Referring to your columns, the 5/16th measurement seems smaller than what was shown in you video. Are they actually 5/8ths? Or am I just going crazy? Love the videos been here since the beginning and keep up the great work brother!
I don't play anything that justifies me building any of this stuff (yet)... but I'm going to make my own village based solely on how awesome this is. Absolutely stellar work.
bro IK, I finally put together all of the Star Wars legion minis that were sitting aside and I've started painting my pile of shame. But, god damn I want to build this stuff so bad, so Obviously I Just bought the magnets and drill.....
Just *chef kiss* beautiful! Love the removable roof textures, fantastic idea. I think when I (eventually) do them from scratch I'll use corrugated cardboard rather than foam to save on precious precious foam.
The fogging issue might be a moisture/humidity thing. Did you use an accelerator? Water reacts with cyanoacrylate, the important part of super glue, to make a tough polymer that should be clear. If you're drying time is long, the coat is too thick, and humidity is high, the super glue will vaporize and these vapors will react with the air and then re-settle settle as a white film.
Interesting to know! I didn't use an accelerator, but I've experimented with superglue on grout since then, and it seems to have a similar acceleration affect - possibly something to do with the small particles. Definitely something I think I could avoid next time!
I just realized, with the detachable shingles system you could make a 3in by 6in sloped roof piece and use it for both shallow roofs and steep roofs. Normally rotating a roof piece like that would mean the shingles are sometimes facing the wrong way, but since your shingles can detach from the frame you can just turn them around so they work in either orientation. 2 new roof types for the price of one!
Awesome! Don't forget you can buy it through the equipment list to support the channel - and just ask if you have any questions, I always try to answer :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial I'm french tho, you don't have links to french retailers. I'm painting miniatures for now, i would want this to be my next project maybe in 6 month or so. I'm doing everything in my life on a budget so i'm gonna have to try and find one second hand. Thanks for the videos, this is so much inspiring.
Would using a connection made of skewing sticks work? Feels cheaper than magnets, although complicated by needing to make the holes for every block, i feel like itd be much stronger. More complicated to build something too i guess..., you would probably need differently sized sticks and probably you would need to build a few parts in order in case one gets stuck or something.
That cottage looks amazing! 🥰 More balsa works for me; I enjoy working with it, and until I get better with the Proxxon, it's actually easier to use. (I'm in the "seismograph during an earthquake" phase 😅) Good luck with taxes and life stuff!
Thanks kayura! If you want a tip for using the proxxon without the guide when needed - use the lowest temperature you can, go slowly and rest your forearms on the proxxon and use your wrists and fingers to move the foam :)
There's a metric conversion chart in the description :) I use imperial for a range of reasons, the most important one being it is FAR easier to repeatedly half a measurement at a small scale. Try halving a cm. You get stuck once you reach 5mm on most people's rulers...
I like how you reuse the plastic covers from miniature packaging @6:48. I also reuse mine to hand brush on varnish, inks, and washes where I don’t want to use my wet palette
i love how i dont play any terrain games or anything like that but I make models for fun that don't have to be revesable or have interior; but did it watch this whole video? yes, yes I did. this guy is epic
I found this channel right before I was suppose to go to sleep for the night and when I looked up the sun was rising. Absolutely stunning art and an amazing system. My new favorite channel for sure. Cheers to happy binge watching LOL
I have been using the grout covering on my 3d printed Jedha and Tatooine buildings to conceal the resolution lines. It is a great material that seems to be getting a lot of love! Superb videos, I hope that you are able to keep this content coming because I love it!
Another option for placing magnets; take a completed tile, hold a strip of painters tape non sticky side down on it, then take another magnet on that, squishing the tape in place. Push that onto the new tile, the tape will hold it flush onto the new tile while the glue dries
All cool but you could do yourself a favor actually spending an hour or two every week researching historic wooden architecture and architecture in general. There are old books many of which easipy available on internet with good graphics. Joinery, roofing, brick and stonemasonry bond types, wattle and daub.
Why not make a solid floor tile just for the upper floor of the buildings that would eliminate having to use the tabs altogether? They could also be used for larger bottom floors as well as on larger buildings.
I hate this channel so much because there are so many great ideas, I can't keep crafting as I am, I have to do better because of the example set. * orders magnets from Amazon *
Matt... I have just binge-watched all your videos... Thanks for a night of no sleep. Your builds are amazing. It is great to see how well your productions have improved and like with this video, it is amazing you share your improvements! I really love you go back and evaluate. Anyway, wish I had the money for a Proxxon or to back you on patreon, but as a thesis-writing unemployed student, I will have to wait a bit. Love your videos tho and good luck with your taxes 😉
I actually managed to do magnets for the first time today without making a mess or dropping them and losing them or getting the pole completely wrong. I still think they are more trouble than they are worth. but I'm pleased wit the job I did.
really love your videos man, I work mostly with papercraft, but you have a tremendous talent and your videos are incredibly inspiring and helpful with my builds.
Hmm.... Well. Firstly I'd not use grout as weathering before attaching the ivy - pretty sure that's why it frosted/burned from sealing too quick, it activated the glue. Having it seal slower has other advantages too - you can use the edge of kitchen roll to soak up excess and make it less of a solid block, show more detail and depth. I'd probably test out white grout for the wall texture too, if I could be sure I'd get it all off the wood with a wet kitchen roll, I'd use that instead of brown - much easier to paint cream over! I'd also put the wall magnets on the top and bottom (not the ones that connect with the floor) in the same depth as I do on the main stone walls etc, with some hot glue over the top making a thin gap. I can fix this later just by poking it with the glue gun, but it makes it the connections just that little bit easier to detach when you want to pick up the second floor :) Little things really, one was just a time saver and one I can fix later, but next time I know what I'll change!
@@RPArchiveOfficial Minor things indeed. I'm trying to make pieces in a similar style, excepting my campaign takes place in the Iron Age, so most people live in roundhouses. Any advice on how to reliably bend the foam in a quarter-circle? :P
This is a great video as always. I love that you continue to improve the system and iterate on what you have done before. Thank you for everything you have shared with our community!
I've been binging your and other builders' videos and I don't even play any tabletop games! I just wanna build cool little houses for no reason b/c I like painting and making stuff. I do play Skyrim and like building in the Sims, Fallout, and Valheim so maybe this is why it's so appealing to me... Now to convince my husband why I need a million different paint colors and foam haha
I have not built terrain since 4th edition 40k but YOU good sir are making me go stir crazy trying to find XPS to fit my tight budget XD. I dont even have people to play any of the miniature games or D&D F2F right now but damn would look good for my Insta pics
I just found this channel and am so mad that my local craft store and hardware store are out of all the materials. Balsa wood? nope Foam? nope magnets? nope chip board? nope a cutting board? nope tiny drill? nope appropriate modeling grass/moss/dirt? nope grocery store did have toothpicks and bbq skewers. yay? guess I'm putting in a big order online.
Frosting effects on clear varnishes and superglue is almost always caused by moisture, either in the air or on the surface you're gluing on. You can mitigate it on varnishes by misting it on in very thin coats, but with superglue it is much harder to get under control.
Not gonna lie: I kinda want you to build a house for me - an actual one. Everything attached with magnets, so as I want a new room, or to redesign the layout, I can just add, subtract, or move walls and floors. I live alone, so I can dream... :)
Just starting out here and call me dumb or whatever but why not put the magnets all the same way? I think this would be less confusing...or does that cause problems I don't know about?
Can someone Point me the Video in which the current (Most updated) Version of the Placement of Magnets ? I Watched so much of These Videos that i am comfused as hell o.O
All of the following are 3mm wide 2mm deep n52 neodymium disk magnets, unless I say otherwise :) On floor tiles, its one magnet 1/2" in from each edge on the left and right, and halfway up/down between the top and bottom (so 1/4" high, as its a 1/2 tile) For polarity, its North on the right and south on the left when looking at the edge of the tile, and this is the same on each side :) Polarity is whatever you decide it is when making your first piece, you just pick a pole and call it north from there on :) For walls, it's exactly the same as in the original magnetic building system video, with the one addition of two magnets on the inner edge of the wall to line up with floor tiles (so again, 1/2" from the edge, 1/4" from the bottom, on the inside of the wall, with the north on the right and south on the left :) The only other addition is if you want balconies to attach to the outside of the walls, in which case you want those floor connection magnets on the outside too. Finally though, for the cottage walls where this isn't as possible, a 6mm and 3mm magnet can be placed in the tile at the bottom, but I show this in the balconies video, and you can add them easily whenever you want... Hope this helps! 😄 Let me know if you have any more questions
Sorry if this was asked before, but do you buy your grout to make the mix or do you make it? I am having a hard time finding affordable hobby grout around my area and I dont want to buy a large supply if I do not need a bunch!
Do you have more roofs with different degrees of angle? Or different parts to make them look thinner at the top? Would add a bit of extra modularity for different settings.
The sheer amount of effort and technique in these videos are so impressive to me. It almost makes it intimidating to start, but I have some foam and am starting on a hedge maze. Wish me and my magnets luck
Stronger/smaller/cheaper. Balls have less surface area contact so need to be bigger/more expensive for the same pull :) There's a way around it I'm showing off in my next bonus video though 😁
@@RPArchiveOfficial Yes, that was me! Been spreading the word around but seems that wasn't necessary. Hope you keep growing bigger and keep building on your system. I didn't have time to put much of it in practice (university) so I stuck to smaller stuff for now but I am definetely getting ready to crank out some modular walls once I am done in two months.
Hey Matt, hope you're doing well! Lately I've been having a bit of an opposite problem, namely my magnets keep the terrain (mostly the walls) together TOO well, and usually the magnets end up ripping each other out, which is a bit of a pain mid game. Any ideas on what could help? Could very well be me and my glue gun as it is new since my old one barely got hot enough to keep glue liquid for more than a second or 2 after leaving the nozzle.
Glue gun is a massive factor in that problem. You want the hole the same size as the magnet as close as possible, if too much hot glue is around the sides they can pop out much more easily I recommend the thin nozzle surebonder in my equipment list, it's perfect for 3x2mm :)
Ok brudda your channel has absolutely caught my attention. I am extremely excited to start some build projects myself and will definitely be referring to your build lists and links.Stay Awesome Brudda
The real problem with a channel like this that has patrons that pay for it all, you then feel obligated to produce the videos so the money keeps rolling in. Ill bet that feeling hasnt got any better in the newer videos.
@@RPArchiveOfficial yeah when I think about it I would rather owe something to actual fans of my work rather than some random company who is willing to pay for my hobby
I like your technique. Those walls and the finished product look great. Personally I don't have a lot of balsa since it's so soft. I use pinewood strips, but I know the wood grain is harder to put on them.
Thanks, I generally find the softness isn't an issue though, especially on builds like this where its glued to something stronger - might be worth trying to give your hands a rest from texturing the tougher stuff :)
I follow a general rule of North on the top/right and south on the bottom/left, unless the build requires otherwise for some reason. I show exactly where each polarity goes in every video usually, unless I reference a video where I've already shown it :) is there one in particular you can't find?
@@RPArchiveOfficial thank you! I’m trying something similar for conquest. The miniature rest on tiles that can benefit from being magnetised to form a tray. Was afraid it would get all mixed up. Your method here will help! Thank you
Okay. Okay, wait.. I didn't think I could like something more than BMC, but I've watched 3 videos now and I don't think my jaw came off of the floor once. I've subscribed to 100 or so channels now, but you sir, are the only one I have clicked the bell for. Well freaking DONE!
Wow, thank you man! It's always so damn nice to hear things like that while working, a lot of time goes into the videos - comments like this make it feel very worthwhile :)
Each video I am more impressed with your building skills. I love the idea of the modular tiles and buildings, but it seems like with all the detail you put into these, and the various revisions you've made, it's almost more work to build a whole set of these than it would be to make individual buildings on-demand. Do you think there will come a point at which you've 'perfected' the system? Or do you think you'll keep tweaking and revising pretty much continuously?
I think I'll perfect the core tiles soon enough, definitely. Bear in mind every revision I've made so far has made them faster to make, as well as MUCH faster to set up... Take that and look at every building I've shown with the system (which isn't even half of what you could do), and add the Dungeon setups you can do with them because they're also dungeon tiles, and add that time up? With that in mind... I'm pretty sure it's a lot faster, and definitely more flexible for when you need to slam down a new building without warning :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial Thank you. I saw the video, my main doubt was if you cut the tufts or squeezed them inside. These flowers are pretty useful for my campaign setting. Thanks!
Wow. Thank you for the vid. I like how you are sharing the parts where you learned from mistakes or finding out a better way to do something. Also like the music here better than that weird stock jazz track!
@@RPArchiveOfficial awesome. Thank you for the reply. Free commons music is kinda tough to find good ones. Maybe some that match the mood your pieces represent like gothic or adventuring. Either way, I respect that it's your video, you're the boss of it. Keep up the good work!
What about stairs? Is it possible to do neat looking stairs that minis can stand on? I haven't figured out a way to make stairs that look good but that a mini can also stand on.
Firstly - nice name. Secondly, check out my stairblocks (d&d Minecraft) video - you can place models on the stairs easily just by either removing the stair topper, or removing and adding another block, depending on if you want the model higher or lower. There's also a trick to stop minis falling off...
@@RPArchiveOfficial first of all: thanks for the compliment. Also, the trick you’re referring to is the one where you put metal on the bottom of the mini so it sticks to magnets? And about the stairs, do you have any more wood looking? Because the other ones (that are awesome by the way) look more suitable for a dungeon than an inn!
Correct, and true, I have wood stairs planned but they're not quite ready yet :) the stone ones work good for an Inn with a stone ground floor? That's pretty much what I'm doing in the meantime 😅
Balsa dimensions:
The balsa strips were all 1/16" thick, and were either 1/8", 3/16" or 1/4" wide depending on location. In terms of length I just laid them over where I wanted them and marked with a knife where I would need to cut - once I had one I then just lined it up next to the strip to cut a ton more the same length.
1/4" - pretty much only the two strips surrounding the magnets on the inside of walls.
3/16" - all other horizontal strips, the central vertical strips on walls and surrounding doors, the diagonal strips on triangle roof tiles. Oh and the pieces I used to line the holes I cut for doors and windows.
1/8" - the vertical strips on wall edges and bordering windows, and the diagonal strips on walls, doors and windows.
Wall Tile dimensions:
The foam for the tiles was all 3/8" thick, or 10mm in metric. Technically they're not exactly the same but it doesn't make a difference here.
Otherwise they were 3" wide and 2" tall, just like all other wall tiles.
Roof dimensions:
Check out the roof video for these, the only real difference is I cut them from balsa.
Column dimensions:
These were made from two sizes of foam block, one was a 1/2" cube.
The other was 5/8" wide and deep, but still 1/2" tall. Basically just enough to make it stick out a bit on two sides.
Sealant mix:
I show making this mixture in full in my war camp scatter terrain video, but basically the mix is 50/50 Pva glue and acrylic matte medium, mixed about 10:1 with water so it's thin and drippable/sprayable.
In this case I also mixed the result about 50/50 with isopropyl alcohol to help it break the surface tension and soak into the grout mix.
Quick question Matt. Referring to your columns, the 5/16th measurement seems smaller than what was shown in you video. Are they actually 5/8ths? Or am I just going crazy? Love the videos been here since the beginning and keep up the great work brother!
I believe you are correct, I'll get that changed 😅
Hey there awesome build! With that sealant mix, you say it’s a 10 to 1 mix with water. Is that 10 parts water or one part water?
10 parts water :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial Hey thanks! When I first saw that part of the video, I said to myself, “Matt, water you talking about?” 😂
I don't play anything that justifies me building any of this stuff (yet)... but I'm going to make my own village based solely on how awesome this is. Absolutely stellar work.
Awesome man!
Yeah my long term goal is to have enough to create totally modular villages and towns on the fly...
I have a stack of minis that need painted and you keep distracting me with MORE sweet terrain I want to try building... Thanks for the great content!
Hahaha! Tell that to my pile of minis, I'm sure they feel the same way.
Neglected and lonely 😅
Lmao get bodied
bro IK, I finally put together all of the Star Wars legion minis that were sitting aside and I've started painting my pile of shame. But, god damn I want to build this stuff so bad, so Obviously I Just bought the magnets and drill.....
1 person is mad that you managed to still keep things modular.
Haha, apparently!
Great video! Soon to be seen on tabletops across the land 👍
Thanks man, I hope so! :)
Just *chef kiss* beautiful! Love the removable roof textures, fantastic idea. I think when I (eventually) do them from scratch I'll use corrugated cardboard rather than foam to save on precious precious foam.
Thanks! And fair play, I like foam because it's much easier to be precise :)
Great work friend, I must say that your crafts are in my humble opinion the best I have seen. Your work certainly deserves more recognition.
Thanks Elton, comments like that really mean a lot :)
I am sooo amazed! Looking forward to christmas holidays when I will finally have time to try everything out!
Ah, sweet sweet holidays :) get the family or friends involved and do an assembly line 😅
,JuSt loOK liKe a WoRk oF A lAzY peAsANt! I nearly died from laugh at this XD
Holy crap, did you do post-production on your candle flames? They look like they are going, was that just a paint job?!? 6:16
Just a paint job :)
The fogging issue might be a moisture/humidity thing. Did you use an accelerator? Water reacts with cyanoacrylate, the important part of super glue, to make a tough polymer that should be clear. If you're drying time is long, the coat is too thick, and humidity is high, the super glue will vaporize and these vapors will react with the air and then re-settle settle as a white film.
Interesting to know! I didn't use an accelerator, but I've experimented with superglue on grout since then, and it seems to have a similar acceleration affect - possibly something to do with the small particles. Definitely something I think I could avoid next time!
@@RPArchiveOfficial Might be the same thing as superglue and baking soda.
I just realized, with the detachable shingles system you could make a 3in by 6in sloped roof piece and use it for both shallow roofs and steep roofs. Normally rotating a roof piece like that would mean the shingles are sometimes facing the wrong way, but since your shingles can detach from the frame you can just turn them around so they work in either orientation. 2 new roof types for the price of one!
Like always so usefull vidéos.... i'm realy looking foward to get a hotwire to get started !
Awesome! Don't forget you can buy it through the equipment list to support the channel - and just ask if you have any questions, I always try to answer :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial I'm french tho, you don't have links to french retailers. I'm painting miniatures for now, i would want this to be my next project maybe in 6 month or so. I'm doing everything in my life on a budget so i'm gonna have to try and find one second hand. Thanks for the videos, this is so much inspiring.
Totally understand, at some point I'll get around to adding more country links to the equipment list but it's a long task 😅
Ooh, you could also swap out some of the thatch roof tiles for "on fire thatch roof" tiles mid-game!
some 9600 subscribers.....
somethings very wrong here.
Fantastic content!
Thanks man! Growing bit by bit - I'll get there 😅
You hàd to use the same 'mini' Rob did, in one of the D&D sessions from VLDL, didn't you?!
Would using a connection made of skewing sticks work? Feels cheaper than magnets, although complicated by needing to make the holes for every block, i feel like itd be much stronger.
More complicated to build something too i guess..., you would probably need differently sized sticks and probably you would need to build a few parts in order in case one gets stuck or something.
Check out my earlier videos, this is how it used to work... Most people seem to prefer magnets :)
That cottage looks amazing! 🥰 More balsa works for me; I enjoy working with it, and until I get better with the Proxxon, it's actually easier to use. (I'm in the "seismograph during an earthquake" phase 😅)
Good luck with taxes and life stuff!
Thanks kayura!
If you want a tip for using the proxxon without the guide when needed - use the lowest temperature you can, go slowly and rest your forearms on the proxxon and use your wrists and fingers to move the foam :)
Those roofs are awesome. You could do same village with different seasons.
so metric country... anywhere else in the world outside USA
There's a metric conversion chart in the description :)
I use imperial for a range of reasons, the most important one being it is FAR easier to repeatedly half a measurement at a small scale. Try halving a cm. You get stuck once you reach 5mm on most people's rulers...
I like how you reuse the plastic covers from miniature packaging @6:48. I also reuse mine to hand brush on varnish, inks, and washes where I don’t want to use my wet palette
i love how i dont play any terrain games or anything like that but I make models for fun that don't have to be revesable or have interior; but did it watch this whole video? yes, yes I did. this guy is epic
I found this channel right before I was suppose to go to sleep for the night and when I looked up the sun was rising. Absolutely stunning art and an amazing system. My new favorite channel for sure. Cheers to happy binge watching LOL
Haha wow, thanks man! Welcome and I hope you enjoy everything to come :)
I have been using the grout covering on my 3d printed Jedha and Tatooine buildings to conceal the resolution lines. It is a great material that seems to be getting a lot of love! Superb videos, I hope that you are able to keep this content coming because I love it!
Solid use of grout! I've got more things to use it for coming soon hopefully :)
Another option for placing magnets; take a completed tile, hold a strip of painters tape non sticky side down on it, then take another magnet on that, squishing the tape in place. Push that onto the new tile, the tape will hold it flush onto the new tile while the glue dries
Modular Staircases, both interior and exterior?
Haha, keep an eye on the channel ;)
Broseph this is rad as shit, if i ever get the time I will absolutely try this out
Thanks Lucas! You'll get there sooner or later ;)
LOVE IT !!!!! Thanks for sharing you building and how it’s put together. Nicely done Boss 👍👍
good vidio
Great video. I like the improvements.
Thanks Chris!
Can't get enough of your videos, I watch every day it seems!
All cool but you could do yourself a favor actually spending an hour or two every week researching historic wooden architecture and architecture in general. There are old books many of which easipy available on internet with good graphics. Joinery, roofing, brick and stonemasonry bond types, wattle and daub.
I know you were joking when you said 'pizza' but dude... Pizza roof!
How did you get the shot at 5:03? if you do all tiles 3x3, wouldn't putting walls make corners wonky? is that grass tile at front 3x4?
3/16 inch? A shot glass filled 1/8 with water? Just use metric, man
I would argue that having a heavy mini collapse the floor mid fight whould be awesome.
If planned that is.
*me who doesnt even rp*
hmmm yes must watch how to make these
Doooo iiit :) it's surprisingly fun to just make and play with to make scenes for temporary display
Why not make a solid floor tile just for the upper floor of the buildings
that would eliminate having to use the tabs altogether? They could also
be used for larger bottom floors as well as on larger buildings.
I hate this channel so much because there are so many great ideas, I can't keep crafting as I am, I have to do better because of the example set.
* orders magnets from Amazon *
Apologies if i missed it, but do you know the measurements you used for placing the 6mm magnets along the edges of the roof tiles at 17:34 ?
So basically you where missing floor beams... 🤔
Matt... I have just binge-watched all your videos... Thanks for a night of no sleep. Your builds are amazing. It is great to see how well your productions have improved and like with this video, it is amazing you share your improvements! I really love you go back and evaluate.
Anyway, wish I had the money for a Proxxon or to back you on patreon, but as a thesis-writing unemployed student, I will have to wait a bit. Love your videos tho and good luck with your taxes 😉
Thanks for the support man! And I remember being a poor student, no sweat it doesn't last ;)
Now go catch up on sleep haha
You are so talented, ive been watching tutorials, and builds for almost 4 years and never seen this quality and creativity you are the best!!!
Thanks Alois! It's always awesome hearing comments like that :)
I actually managed to do magnets for the first time today without making a mess or dropping them and losing them or getting the pole completely wrong. I still think they are more trouble than they are worth. but I'm pleased wit the job I did.
Nice one! Honestly the sheer convenience of being able to quickly lay things out mid game makes them irreplaceable for me, but crafters preference :)
really love your videos man, I work mostly with papercraft, but you have a tremendous talent and your videos are incredibly inspiring and helpful with my builds.
Thanks a lot man, I've used papercraft stuff in the past, it's a great way to get started :)
But for fsake, that cottage! 😭❤️
Right?! It's amazing!!!
Haha! Thank you both 😅 I'm still not perfectly happy with it but it'll do for a first try :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial What would you improve on, were you to make it anew?
Hmm.... Well.
Firstly I'd not use grout as weathering before attaching the ivy - pretty sure that's why it frosted/burned from sealing too quick, it activated the glue. Having it seal slower has other advantages too - you can use the edge of kitchen roll to soak up excess and make it less of a solid block, show more detail and depth.
I'd probably test out white grout for the wall texture too, if I could be sure I'd get it all off the wood with a wet kitchen roll, I'd use that instead of brown - much easier to paint cream over!
I'd also put the wall magnets on the top and bottom (not the ones that connect with the floor) in the same depth as I do on the main stone walls etc, with some hot glue over the top making a thin gap. I can fix this later just by poking it with the glue gun, but it makes it the connections just that little bit easier to detach when you want to pick up the second floor :)
Little things really, one was just a time saver and one I can fix later, but next time I know what I'll change!
@@RPArchiveOfficial Minor things indeed.
I'm trying to make pieces in a similar style, excepting my campaign takes place in the Iron Age, so most people live in roundhouses. Any advice on how to reliably bend the foam in a quarter-circle? :P
More Minecraft, hehe :)
You are awesome, man :)
amazing job looks fantastic brother
I have been a sub for a bit but this is what made me want to join your patreon as well. Keep up the good work.
Awesome man! Thank you so much for the support :)
It all just looks so darn good!
Thanks man!
This is a great video as always. I love that you continue to improve the system and iterate on what you have done before. Thank you for everything you have shared with our community!
Thank you for commenting man! Engaging with a video really helps me and I always appreciate it :)
Just found your channel and want to say that I love creative stuff like these. Keep it going, it's fantastic.
Thanks man :)
2:42 good excuse to have a coke nail.
I've been binging your and other builders' videos and I don't even play any tabletop games! I just wanna build cool little houses for no reason b/c I like painting and making stuff. I do play Skyrim and like building in the Sims, Fallout, and Valheim so maybe this is why it's so appealing to me... Now to convince my husband why I need a million different paint colors and foam haha
Do it! Maybe you'll get into d&d down the road - you might like it!
I have not built terrain since 4th edition 40k but YOU good sir are making me go stir crazy trying to find XPS to fit my tight budget XD. I dont even have people to play any of the miniature games or D&D F2F right now but damn would look good for my Insta pics
Price is inflated right now because... Everything 🙄
It'll hopefully come back down :)
I just found this channel and am so mad that my local craft store and hardware store are out of all the materials.
Balsa wood? nope
Foam? nope
magnets? nope
chip board? nope
a cutting board? nope
tiny drill? nope
appropriate modeling grass/moss/dirt? nope
grocery store did have toothpicks and bbq skewers. yay?
guess I'm putting in a big order online.
Online is the way ;)
Frosting effects on clear varnishes and superglue is almost always caused by moisture, either in the air or on the surface you're gluing on. You can mitigate it on varnishes by misting it on in very thin coats, but with superglue it is much harder to get under control.
Matt... You never cease to amaze me sir!
Haha, I aim to please 😅
Not gonna lie: I kinda want you to build a house for me - an actual one. Everything attached with magnets, so as I want a new room, or to redesign the layout, I can just add, subtract, or move walls and floors. I live alone, so I can dream... :)
😂
Absolutely beautiful. Really good techniques, but your magnet budget must be astronomical.
It's honestly not that bad from a good supplier :) I've also negotiated discounts for my audience instead of any kickback for me
Amateur question: why not just make a bunch of colored half-length plugs (or even trim bits) to hide the edge connectors?
Do you mean to hide the card connections?
All I can say is "Thank You!".
Well thank you for commenting :)
Just starting out here and call me dumb or whatever but why not put the magnets all the same way? I think this would be less confusing...or does that cause problems I don't know about?
Because then they'll repel each other :) the floor's need to connect to walls AND each other, basically
Your builds are really phenomenal, man!! Congratulations!!!
Thanks Nelson!
Can someone Point me the Video in which the current (Most updated) Version of the Placement of Magnets ? I Watched so much of These Videos that i am comfused as hell o.O
All of the following are 3mm wide 2mm deep n52 neodymium disk magnets, unless I say otherwise :)
On floor tiles, its one magnet 1/2" in from each edge on the left and right, and halfway up/down between the top and bottom (so 1/4" high, as its a 1/2 tile)
For polarity, its North on the right and south on the left when looking at the edge of the tile, and this is the same on each side :)
Polarity is whatever you decide it is when making your first piece, you just pick a pole and call it north from there on :)
For walls, it's exactly the same as in the original magnetic building system video, with the one addition of two magnets on the inner edge of the wall to line up with floor tiles (so again, 1/2" from the edge, 1/4" from the bottom, on the inside of the wall, with the north on the right and south on the left :)
The only other addition is if you want balconies to attach to the outside of the walls, in which case you want those floor connection magnets on the outside too.
Finally though, for the cottage walls where this isn't as possible, a 6mm and 3mm magnet can be placed in the tile at the bottom, but I show this in the balconies video, and you can add them easily whenever you want...
Hope this helps! 😄 Let me know if you have any more questions
Bookmark for me
11:00 painting moss.
Sorry if this was asked before, but do you buy your grout to make the mix or do you make it? I am having a hard time finding affordable hobby grout around my area and I dont want to buy a large supply if I do not need a bunch!
I just buy a bag from a DIY store, it's not that expensive and it'll last... Pretty much forever 😄
Great work!
Thanks!
Great job, Matt! I love your work!
Thanks Stoyan!
Excellente vidéo !!!
Thanks Patrick!
Do you have more roofs with different degrees of angle? Or different parts to make them look thinner at the top? Would add a bit of extra modularity for different settings.
You could, but it's more work and storage, that can't be used with the other roof pieces for epic rooftops of large buildings :)
The sheer amount of effort and technique in these videos are so impressive to me. It almost makes it intimidating to start, but I have some foam and am starting on a hedge maze. Wish me and my magnets luck
You can do it!
This is Great Beautiful working! It screams Kick starter 👌
Very inspirational, as always.
I just found this channel. Gold. Pure hobby gold.
why you insist on magnets with polarity and not using magnet miniballs that twist polarity ? Btw awsome job.
Stronger/smaller/cheaper. Balls have less surface area contact so need to be bigger/more expensive for the same pull :)
There's a way around it I'm showing off in my next bonus video though 😁
Damm. Your channel has grown!
I remember reacting to your Shadiversity refrences on the first video.
Haha thanks! I remember that actually (if you're the guy who commented...)
@@RPArchiveOfficial Yes, that was me!
Been spreading the word around but seems that wasn't necessary. Hope you keep growing bigger and keep building on your system.
I didn't have time to put much of it in practice (university) so I stuck to smaller stuff for now but I am definetely getting ready to crank out some modular walls once I am done in two months.
Awesome man :) and spreading the word is always good and appreciated mate!
Odd question that has nothing to do with the terrain build, which is awesome. Where is that giant from?
Wizkids unpainted range :)
Wow! Well done and thank you!
god am I so glad I found this channel before my first in-person campaign
I already liked this video, but seeing the Dresden Files shirt made me subscribe.
Haha! Well this made me smile :) Welcome to the archive!
freaking wizard my guy
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Very cool
Thanks Diego!
"WE'RE NOT WORTHY !"
Hey Matt, hope you're doing well! Lately I've been having a bit of an opposite problem, namely my magnets keep the terrain (mostly the walls) together TOO well, and usually the magnets end up ripping each other out, which is a bit of a pain mid game. Any ideas on what could help? Could very well be me and my glue gun as it is new since my old one barely got hot enough to keep glue liquid for more than a second or 2 after leaving the nozzle.
Glue gun is a massive factor in that problem. You want the hole the same size as the magnet as close as possible, if too much hot glue is around the sides they can pop out much more easily
I recommend the thin nozzle surebonder in my equipment list, it's perfect for 3x2mm :)
And I'm... Surviving! I'm recovering from long covid and am getting the next video out as fast as I can :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial Sounds good, I'll try it out! this ones a bit extreme for foam anyways... And glad to hear you're doing better
Ok brudda your channel has absolutely caught my attention. I am extremely excited to start some build projects myself and will definitely be referring to your build lists and links.Stay Awesome Brudda
Cheers man!
The real problem with a channel like this that has patrons that pay for it all, you then feel obligated to produce the videos so the money keeps rolling in.
Ill bet that feeling hasnt got any better in the newer videos.
Actually it feels much better than relying on fickle ads and sponsors :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial yeah when I think about it I would rather owe something to actual fans of my work rather than some random company who is willing to pay for my hobby
Holy shit a Josh Lyman season 1 reference.
Bring me the finest muffins and bagels in all the land...
I like your technique. Those walls and the finished product look great. Personally I don't have a lot of balsa since it's so soft. I use pinewood strips, but I know the wood grain is harder to put on them.
Thanks, I generally find the softness isn't an issue though, especially on builds like this where its glued to something stronger - might be worth trying to give your hands a rest from texturing the tougher stuff :)
so cool, where can you watch people play with these ?
Your own table if you make them :) I don't stream games, I don't have the time, equipment or willing players 😂
Me: This can't get any better.
RP Archive: Hold my gluegun!
Haha! Brilliant!
There's more to come ;)
How do you plan for the polarity for all the pieces?
I follow a general rule of North on the top/right and south on the bottom/left, unless the build requires otherwise for some reason.
I show exactly where each polarity goes in every video usually, unless I reference a video where I've already shown it :) is there one in particular you can't find?
@@RPArchiveOfficial thank you! I’m trying something similar for conquest. The miniature rest on tiles that can benefit from being magnetised to form a tray. Was afraid it would get all mixed up. Your method here will help! Thank you
Oh Shingles
Okay. Okay, wait.. I didn't think I could like something more than BMC, but I've watched 3 videos now and I don't think my jaw came off of the floor once. I've subscribed to 100 or so channels now, but you sir, are the only one I have clicked the bell for. Well freaking DONE!
It is serious rubbish that I cannot like this more than once...
Wow, thank you man! It's always so damn nice to hear things like that while working, a lot of time goes into the videos - comments like this make it feel very worthwhile :)
Each video I am more impressed with your building skills. I love the idea of the modular tiles and buildings, but it seems like with all the detail you put into these, and the various revisions you've made, it's almost more work to build a whole set of these than it would be to make individual buildings on-demand. Do you think there will come a point at which you've 'perfected' the system? Or do you think you'll keep tweaking and revising pretty much continuously?
I think I'll perfect the core tiles soon enough, definitely. Bear in mind every revision I've made so far has made them faster to make, as well as MUCH faster to set up...
Take that and look at every building I've shown with the system (which isn't even half of what you could do), and add the Dungeon setups you can do with them because they're also dungeon tiles, and add that time up?
With that in mind... I'm pretty sure it's a lot faster, and definitely more flexible for when you need to slam down a new building without warning :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial haha, undeniably true about the no-warning buildings.
Do you have a tutorial for the flowers by the window?
It's in the wizards lab video, it's basically just flower tufts in a Balsa wood box :)
@@RPArchiveOfficial Thank you. I saw the video, my main doubt was if you cut the tufts or squeezed them inside.
These flowers are pretty useful for my campaign setting.
Thanks!
Wow. Thank you for the vid. I like how you are sharing the parts where you learned from mistakes or finding out a better way to do something. Also like the music here better than that weird stock jazz track!
Thanks! I try to include what I learn, I figure it helps other people avoid the problem :)
And technically its still jazz... Kinda. Now it's jazzhop 😅
@@RPArchiveOfficial awesome. Thank you for the reply. Free commons music is kinda tough to find good ones. Maybe some that match the mood your pieces represent like gothic or adventuring. Either way, I respect that it's your video, you're the boss of it. Keep up the good work!
Why not create modular pilars to sustain large uperfloors areas, we use it in real life.
Because it doesn't help with picking them up :) which is the main problem, unfortunately.
@@RPArchiveOfficial Oh i get it, loved the balsa wood door frames they just look great :)
I know right? I like the balsa wood finish so much more than foam it's unreal.
What about stairs? Is it possible to do neat looking stairs that minis can stand on? I haven't figured out a way to make stairs that look good but that a mini can also stand on.
Firstly - nice name.
Secondly, check out my stairblocks (d&d Minecraft) video - you can place models on the stairs easily just by either removing the stair topper, or removing and adding another block, depending on if you want the model higher or lower.
There's also a trick to stop minis falling off...
@@RPArchiveOfficial first of all: thanks for the compliment.
Also, the trick you’re referring to is the one where you put metal on the bottom of the mini so it sticks to magnets? And about the stairs, do you have any more wood looking? Because the other ones (that are awesome by the way) look more suitable for a dungeon than an inn!
Correct, and true, I have wood stairs planned but they're not quite ready yet :) the stone ones work good for an Inn with a stone ground floor? That's pretty much what I'm doing in the meantime 😅
@@RPArchiveOfficial good idea! And by the way, absolutely in love with your channel! Keep up the great work!!!