if it's a nice everyday bike, it's just not worth doing yourself if you've never done it before. get it done at a shop and practice with your old groupset on an old frame.
I always like to add an in-line barrel adjuster to the cable housing for the front and rear derailleurs so I can fine-tune while riding. Seems I only notice/remember shifting problems while riding so these become crucial. Also comes in helpful if you race and need to grab a neutral support wheel.
nice vid. Its good to see more talk about Mech drivetrains. Di2 is cute and everything - but I have never had my mechanical groupset run out of battery on a long ride and had to pedal home in whatever gear it decided to be in. Mechanical has less to break or go wrong, is cheaper and less maintenance.
Thankx Alex, and just so you know torquing to the correct value is really important. When I was phixin Phantoms(1976) everything was torqued, some had to be "witnessed" , so to this day I always use a torque wrench. Now go back a re-torque all them elbow settings to the correct value.
Helpful hint for those front mechs, on the left side there’s a line on the mech and where the pivot point is, when you shift into the big ring if those lines are perfectly in line you have the perfect amount of cable tension. If the pivot line is lower, add tension, if it’s higher, remove tension. It’s a great and useful feature Shimano thought well to include.
Generally I find that putting the chain onto the second-highest gear before doing the pinch bolt works best for the reach mech. I usually still need to do a handful of clicks on the barrel adjuster, but if I do the highest gear I used up most of the barrel adjuster's range right off the bat. I think one of Si's video's put me into this a few years back.
Back deraillure. I found out best way for me to align it is: Shift to highest gear. Loosen cable. Check limit of deraillure are ok from the back by manually moove deraillure to its end position-pully wheel should be slightly outside of cassette. Make sure cable tension screw is fully in. Shift to highest gear again to double check. Thighten cable with a gentle pull on the cable. Shift to lowest gear !I'm never in lowest gear at this point! Always one or two gears away. Increase cable tension while mooving crank till chain is on lowest gear. This works ok for me and i'm done. With this way you know that you get to the best operation point by increasing the tension rather than guessing if to screw in or out.
I would appreciate if you could prepare a video explaining which is the best grease, paste, oil or similar in each part or the bike and depending on the functionality or materials... Great video though!
Got that groupset too. Perfect for me for now. The quality of the low-mid range is astonishing. Got over 6000km now on it, planing on upgrading to 105 or Ultegra once the components are worn out.
@@ingmarneple6072 Rode more than 12000km in 2020 on my Tiagra groupset, how do you justify a 500€ investment (+ more expensive parts when they need to get replaced) when the only difference is a few grams and one more speed?
Reasonably good installation video Was wondering about chain install I have always run new chain on SMALL Chainring, feed thru derailleur and on SMALLEST cassette to determine length Was also hoping to see a more detailed bit on installing chain pin and cutting here Nothing here about the most complicated and dirty part of hydraulic brake install..adding brake fluid and bleeding system properly ... I ' m sure there is a separate GCN link for that
Nice video! If you turn the rear barrel adjuster all the way "down" before tightening the cable, you won't be able to loosen tension if the mech overshifts. Best to set the barrel adjuster at the midpoint so you can adjust tension in the cable both ways. Right?
well, maybe not mid-way but certainly not right at its limit. Chances are far more likely that you will need to tighten the cable more than loosen, but good to have that option should the need arise
Initially run the adjuster all the way in. You’ll need to turn the barrel adjuster tension counterclockwise after install of the cable as it’s not possible to cinch the cable up by hand and without mechanical advantage to enough tension so as to need loosening (clockwise) the barrel adjuster after installation.
Previously Alex showed us that you can invert front and back derailleur with di2. Today it's how to shift both front and back derailleurs with the same shifter on a mechanical groupset. 🤣
Frames that don’t use full length cable housing; rear derailleur cable housing length can be finicky and with no length specification as frames differ. Use the old housing as a guide or on new builds start a bit long. Connect cable/derailleur and adjust. If any cable housing side flex is observed while shifting thru all gears, this = lack of cable movement commanded by the shifter and shifts under torque (riding) will be imprecise. Cut this cable housing length shorter 5mm at a time and readjust derailleur until no flex is observed while shifting thru the gears = precise shifts. Cable housing flex= lack of full cable movement at the derailleur as commanded by the shifter.
Haven’t ever had any serious issues with headsets or brakes but i always get the BB faced cause if the dreaded creaking noise starts coming from down there i can literally set it on 🔥.
I have reservations about using grease and a torque wrench. The torque settings are always quoted for dry components. Applying grease and using the same torque setting can result in over torquing the applicable fastener. Also you did not mention the type of grease that you use which is important. There are lots of different types for different purposes.
6:29 -- I appreciate the ads, but if you use your head you dont really need that routing cable kit. Just use the already existing cables to route the new cables in. Just use a screw or something to hold both ends together, and just feed the new cables in.
I love this kind of videos (and I get the feeling that every time Alex says "We have plenty of videos on X" there will be a link to a future video). One thing I always struggle with is the many positions the front shifter has ("trim positions"?!)... the explanation in the installation manual is confusing and never see anyone explain them in videos. Could you please talk a bit more about them in a future video? Or maybe at least in an #askgcntech video?
Khaled Zaidan, I had the same problem. In Fact, my Pinarello came from the shop improperly adjusted. Shimano front derailleurs have two etched lines on the back (towards the rear wheel). Set up just like in the video here, then use the small screw "to adjust tension on the cable" until the two etched lines are in-line with each other. Hope this helps.
When you install a new cassette the plastic it comes on makes installing it childsplay. Just align the plastic on the body, remove the little plastic that secures the sprockets and just shift the whole cassette on the body. I always save the plastic hub for future replacing or cleaning the cassette. ;)
Good video Alex. As someone not confident of messing with my bike I’m conscious of buying the wrong tools and the wrong parts and ending up messing it up. Then thinking why didn’t I just pay someone to do it. What would you advise for people like me who don’t want to spend a lot on tools etc?
Looks like you guys prefer Muc Off instead of Park’s grease. Is it actual preference or simply product placement? I’m good w product placement, though it does seem a Muc Off is out of stock, sadly. If there’s not a whole lot of difference, I’ll gladly get Park’s line of grease. Cheers!
If I want to replace my old 2x10 mechanical groupset with 2x11 or even 2x12, how do I know if the new group set will fit with my old bike frame? Can we upgrade with different brand? or we have to stay with the old brand. Can you have a new video that explain what possible problems to replace 2x10 with 2x12?
Unfortunately you have not used the correct procedure for the FD. These new type (R7000 in the video) are set up completely differently to the older ones... the cable tension is set using the white line, then the upper limit position is set first as this effects the lower position! Adjusting the upper position afterwards will change the lower also! Please refer to the shimano manual.
Didn't mention the support bolt or having the back end 0.5mm inside the chainring before tightening it either as it's a braze on. These one size fits all videos are a bit lazy and aren't really helpful which is why I didn't end up buying the GCN maintenance book.
Very nice guide. I’m from Israel and I’m a big fan of the channel. I have a question: My groupset is Shimano sora - (7 gears with 11-28 ratio). I’m wondering if this mean that I have less ‘low gears’ than the groupset of 11 gears with the same ratio, (foe example: 105, ultergra)? I Would appreciate if you explain this debate. I remember the salesman of TREK’s local shop saying that, if i choose my current bike, I’ll be struggling more during climbing than the other bike he showed me, (the same Sora groupset, but with 9 gears instead - which is more expensive obviously)
More gears with the same range means smaller differences between gears. So maybe the perfect cadence for you is between two gears when using 7 speed, but can be perfectly achieved with a 9 speed cassette. This is more important when applying more power, so when climbing or going really fast.
My FD shifter feels very stiff and it's very difficult to shift into large chainring from small. Is this due to my FD cable tensioned too high? Is there anything I could do to check this? Using Shimano 105 R7000 btw. #AskGCNTech
So when I attach my cable to the front derailleur, the attach point goes to the up position immediately. The chain is in the smaller ring and fairly certain I have the lever in the lower setting. What am I doing wrong? Do I have too much tension on my cable from the start?
Hi GCN, I'm having a bit of a problem in that my front derailleur is rubbing on the outside of the chain in the big ring. The limit screws are correctly positioned and I think the problem is with the cable tension. Any tips? #AskGCNTech
My installation ( a few years back) was hell. Internal cabling (I also bought a 3T handlebar with internal cabling) with hydraulic brakes and mech shifters (Red 22) I had to route internally all the cables. Total time 1 week ( after work)
ive just installed 1x SRAM Apex on my Topstone but im having the mother of all problems getting enough tension in the rear mech to actually get the gears to change. Does anyone have any ideas or insight? The bead is seated in the brifter properly but still cant get it tight. Next station is Wits End
Why do the big channels always skip over stuff and leave it to the little guys to make the better guides? B limit screw.. Just do it correctly. How close is correct? Just use the correct distance, obviously. And it shifts two gears... well job done then I guess, lets not test the rest. Oh and the front didnt shift at first? No need to show that, we are all experts here, seen it a million times and its solution, no need to show it, it's not like this is a guide or anything.
5 mm space for the B limit screw as he mentions. There are a lot of other how to's on their channel about indexing etc. (also for the chain length) so I think they skipped that part on purpose
@@kidShibuya as shown in video this is 5 mm between the teeth of the largest sprocket of the cassette and the teeth of the top sprocket of the derailleur (or chain on the sprocket of the derailleur that's about the same distance) in an other video they show you that putting a 5 mm Allen key between derailleur and cassette will do the trick (as this is 5 mm)
#askgnctech/ why does GNC have such a small representation of female pro cyclists presenters? Manon is great inspiration to women!! The boys club needs to be updated to include equal female representation to reach the ever growing demographic of avid female cyclists of be left behind. I belong to the GNC women’s cycling club, however, this is a token effort to keep women in the background. Thank you for you equitable consideration for this essential topic.
It's a great video, very useful but I was greatly hoping to see the installation of in-line cable tension adjusters. What happened to those in this build?
@@jimcappa6815 in this case it would be even more useful to show how to tidy up Your cockpit further by moving adjusters towards derailleurs. I assume some adjusters are necessary with mechanical groupset or are they not?
@@awesomexistence Many thanks. I'm preparing to build my Giant Revolt with Ultegra 2x11 Groupset using Jagwire sealed KIT which contains those adjusters so I wasn't sure if I need to use them or not. That answers all my doubts 👍
Play with the cable tension (little bolt probably located on the housing close to the handlebars), until you get it right. Don't forget to adjust the top and bottom limit screws as well. GCN made a video about it ua-cam.com/video/Ea03ChN-7Vg/v-deo.html&ab_channel=GlobalCyclingNetwork
@@etiennelinty7534 Make sure your derailleur is parallel to the chain ring. this will require taking tension off the cable, loosening the support bolt. then adjust as in the video.
Stupid question time: in installing a cassette, if there seems to be play in the three or four smallest cogs after I'm done, what did I do wrong? Asking for a friend, of course . . . #askgcntech
Shimano manuals are great, made installing Di2 ultegra a breeze Never touched that system before only mechanical. Just as easy to install as the mechanical ultegra with the innstallation guide I found online.
Hello everybody. Never adjust front derailleur as it is shown in this video. It is completely wrong procedure what is shown here! Till today I have had high meaning for this GCN presenter but it is clear that he did not read installation manual for this FD at all.
Good day everyone. Hope you read my message sir. I hope to have one bike sir. Hope you notice me sir and gave a bike if the bike is 2nd hand its OK for me. To practice sir. I'm from Philippines 🇵🇭
Would it kill you to 'clean' the old components before re-installing them? ONLY TAKES A SECOND, the splines on your free hub were filthy when you put red grease on it, your rear derailleur was filthy when you greased that one... geezzzz!! WTF dude?
Great to see a build that's not full Dura-Ace DI2... Thanks!
Alex is a great addition to the team
That video came in perfect time! I have plan to put a new group-set on my bike!
Same!
if it's a nice everyday bike, it's just not worth doing yourself if you've never done it before. get it done at a shop and practice with your old groupset on an old frame.
State-of-art technology, every biker should be grateful of what we can get today ! Thank you for showing all the steps and procedures.
I always like to add an in-line barrel adjuster to the cable housing for the front and rear derailleurs so I can fine-tune while riding. Seems I only notice/remember shifting problems while riding so these become crucial. Also comes in helpful if you race and need to grab a neutral support wheel.
Braze on derailleurs have support bolt and backup plate, You should mention that too!
nice vid. Its good to see more talk about Mech drivetrains. Di2 is cute and everything - but I have never had my
mechanical groupset run out of battery on a long ride and had to pedal home in whatever gear it decided to be in.
Mechanical has less to break or go wrong, is cheaper and less maintenance.
Thank you for this very precise tutorial in setting-up the group set of the road bicycle .
Thankx Alex, and just so you know torquing to the correct value is really important. When I was phixin Phantoms(1976) everything was torqued, some had to be "witnessed" , so to this day I always use a torque wrench. Now go back a re-torque all them elbow settings to the correct value.
Helpful hint for those front mechs, on the left side there’s a line on the mech and where the pivot point is, when you shift into the big ring if those lines are perfectly in line you have the perfect amount of cable tension. If the pivot line is lower, add tension, if it’s higher, remove tension. It’s a great and useful feature Shimano thought well to include.
Perfect timing. I’m just about to upgrade to shimano 105 r7000 parts!
Thanks for the great video tutorial
Comprehensive Al! Nice one sir 😀👍🏻
Perfect, I am currently trying to figure out how to install a derailleur and cable on my commuting bike!
Great tips, very well explained.
For the FD there's two lines that you have to align while in the shifter is in trimmed position from big to small chainring.
Generally I find that putting the chain onto the second-highest gear before doing the pinch bolt works best for the reach mech. I usually still need to do a handful of clicks on the barrel adjuster, but if I do the highest gear I used up most of the barrel adjuster's range right off the bat. I think one of Si's video's put me into this a few years back.
I have always set up the front derailleur before the rear. I also tend to put the chain on the big ring for indexing.
Back deraillure. I found out best way for me to align it is:
Shift to highest gear.
Loosen cable.
Check limit of deraillure are ok from the back by manually moove deraillure to its end position-pully wheel should be slightly outside of cassette.
Make sure cable tension screw is fully in.
Shift to highest gear again to double check.
Thighten cable with a gentle pull on the cable.
Shift to lowest gear
!I'm never in lowest gear at this point! Always one or two gears away.
Increase cable tension while mooving crank till chain is on lowest gear.
This works ok for me and i'm done. With this way you know that you get to the best operation point by increasing the tension rather than guessing if to screw in or out.
Thanks for the tutorial video very informative indeed
I would appreciate if you could prepare a video explaining which is the best grease, paste, oil or similar in each part or the bike and depending on the functionality or materials... Great video though!
Used electric gears but gone back to mechanical simple and can leave it over winter with no problem and no battery worries
@1:52....Nice notches on those splines....Clearly a well ridden wheel
Didn't know about that little cable tension 2mm screw on front mech ... thanks.
So useful, I'm about to install tiagra 4700 in my rb❤️
Got that groupset too. Perfect for me for now. The quality of the low-mid range is astonishing. Got over 6000km now on it, planing on upgrading to 105 or Ultegra once the components are worn out.
@@SwiCyc do 105 first! Way better price-quality
@@ingmarneple6072 Rode more than 12000km in 2020 on my Tiagra groupset, how do you justify a 500€ investment (+ more expensive parts when they need to get replaced) when the only difference is a few grams and one more speed?
@@Mister17L hey I mean when he upgrades first try 105 then ultegra😅 ofcourse first use the tiagra😬😆
@@ingmarneple6072 Thanks for the tip. Of course, I use up the Tiagra first. And maybe a newer 105 or better Tiahra is available until then.
Reasonably good installation video
Was wondering about chain install
I have always run new chain on SMALL Chainring, feed thru derailleur and on SMALLEST cassette to determine length
Was also hoping to see a more detailed bit on installing chain pin and cutting here
Nothing here about the most complicated and dirty part of hydraulic brake install..adding brake fluid and bleeding system properly ...
I ' m sure there is a separate GCN link for that
Great video
Same video with DI2 pleasee 🙏😁
Nice video! If you turn the rear barrel adjuster all the way "down" before tightening the cable, you won't be able to loosen tension if the mech overshifts. Best to set the barrel adjuster at the midpoint so you can adjust tension in the cable both ways. Right?
well, maybe not mid-way but certainly not right at its limit. Chances are far more likely that you will need to tighten the cable more than loosen, but good to have that option should the need arise
Initially run the adjuster all the way in. You’ll need to turn the barrel adjuster tension counterclockwise after install of the cable as it’s not possible to cinch the cable up by hand and without mechanical advantage to enough tension so as to need loosening (clockwise) the barrel adjuster after installation.
Previously Alex showed us that you can invert front and back derailleur with di2. Today it's how to shift both front and back derailleurs with the same shifter on a mechanical groupset. 🤣
Frames that don’t use full length cable housing; rear derailleur cable housing length can be finicky and with no length specification as frames differ. Use the old housing as a guide or on new builds start a bit long. Connect cable/derailleur and adjust. If any cable housing side flex is observed while shifting thru all gears, this = lack of cable movement commanded by the shifter and shifts under torque (riding) will be imprecise.
Cut this cable housing length shorter 5mm at a time and readjust derailleur until no flex is observed while shifting thru the gears = precise shifts.
Cable housing flex= lack of full cable movement at the derailleur as commanded by the shifter.
Haven’t ever had any serious issues with headsets or brakes but i always get the BB faced cause if the dreaded creaking noise starts coming from down there i can literally set it on 🔥.
I have reservations about using grease and a torque wrench. The torque settings are always quoted for dry components. Applying grease and using the same torque setting can result in over torquing the applicable fastener. Also you did not mention the type of grease that you use which is important. There are lots of different types for different purposes.
6:29 -- I appreciate the ads, but if you use your head you dont really need that routing cable kit. Just use the already existing cables to route the new cables in. Just use a screw or something to hold both ends together, and just feed the new cables in.
I love this kind of videos (and I get the feeling that every time Alex says "We have plenty of videos on X" there will be a link to a future video).
One thing I always struggle with is the many positions the front shifter has ("trim positions"?!)... the explanation in the installation manual is confusing and never see anyone explain them in videos. Could you please talk a bit more about them in a future video? Or maybe at least in an #askgcntech video?
Khaled Zaidan, I had the same problem. In Fact, my Pinarello came from the shop improperly adjusted. Shimano front derailleurs have two etched lines on the back (towards the rear wheel). Set up just like in the video here, then use the small screw "to adjust tension on the cable" until the two etched lines are in-line with each other. Hope this helps.
Setting RD 15:32
Setting FD 19:25
What do you think of the small chainring and small sprocket through the derailleur to set the chain length?
I've always used this method, perfect every time.
I have messed with this stuff a lot but I never knew about that “b limit screw”.
There's been enough videos posted about this topic. Face it, there is not enough new tech out there to support this channel anymore.
Hi GCN!
When you install a new cassette the plastic it comes on makes installing it childsplay. Just align the plastic on the body, remove the little plastic that secures the sprockets and just shift the whole cassette on the body. I always save the plastic hub for future replacing or cleaning the cassette. ;)
I came for the brakes. xD
How much is it gonna cost to own all those tools you mentioned? What model frame is that ORBEA? ❤️ the ORANGE frame 😎.
Which costs more, a 105 mechanical group OR those Park Tools required for installation?
The groupset, you don't need much to install a mechanical groupset.
Now, a headset on the other hand...
@ 2:10... Nice to see those disk rotors aren't too sharp
Good video Alex. As someone not confident of messing with my bike I’m conscious of buying the wrong tools and the wrong parts and ending up messing it up. Then thinking why didn’t I just pay someone to do it. What would you advise for people like me who don’t want to spend a lot on tools etc?
Do you have a link to the mini-torque wrench at 4:17?
Nice video as always, btw:)
Looks like you guys prefer Muc Off instead of Park’s grease. Is it actual preference or simply product placement? I’m good w product placement, though it does seem a Muc Off is out of stock, sadly. If there’s not a whole lot of difference, I’ll gladly get Park’s line of grease. Cheers!
If I want to replace my old 2x10 mechanical groupset with 2x11 or even 2x12, how do I know if the new group set will fit with my old bike frame? Can we upgrade with different brand? or we have to stay with the old brand. Can you have a new video that explain what possible problems to replace 2x10 with 2x12?
Unfortunately you have not used the correct procedure for the FD. These new type (R7000 in the video) are set up completely differently to the older ones... the cable tension is set using the white line, then the upper limit position is set first as this effects the lower position! Adjusting the upper position afterwards will change the lower also! Please refer to the shimano manual.
Dude FD is a nightmare to get perfect
Didn't mention the support bolt or having the back end 0.5mm inside the chainring before tightening it either as it's a braze on. These one size fits all videos are a bit lazy and aren't really helpful which is why I didn't end up buying the GCN maintenance book.
Have to say, glossed over the technical apsects of tuning which is where the issues are
Very nice guide. I’m from Israel and I’m a big fan of the channel. I have a question: My groupset is Shimano sora - (7 gears with 11-28 ratio). I’m wondering if this mean that I have less ‘low gears’ than the groupset of 11 gears with the same ratio, (foe example: 105, ultergra)? I Would appreciate if you explain this debate.
I remember the salesman of TREK’s local shop saying that, if i choose my current bike, I’ll be struggling more during climbing than the other bike he showed me, (the same Sora groupset, but with 9 gears instead - which is more expensive obviously)
More gears with the same range means smaller differences between gears.
So maybe the perfect cadence for you is between two gears when using 7 speed, but can be perfectly achieved with a 9 speed cassette. This is more important when applying more power, so when climbing or going really fast.
My FD shifter feels very stiff and it's very difficult to shift into large chainring from small. Is this due to my FD cable tensioned too high? Is there anything I could do to check this? Using Shimano 105 R7000 btw. #AskGCNTech
Qual foi o canuite que você colocou na marchas?
So when I attach my cable to the front derailleur, the attach point goes to the up position immediately. The chain is in the smaller ring and fairly certain I have the lever in the lower setting. What am I doing wrong? Do I have too much tension on my cable from the start?
Trim positions?
I, too, was hoping for something about those... they're the one bit I always struggle with
Silly question: How much would cost if Id pay someone to make the upgrade to my byke?
What is the name of the model of the orbea frameset? Thanks!
Looks like an orca m20 but I don’t think it’s standard with those wheels
Hi GCN,
I'm having a bit of a problem in that my front derailleur is rubbing on the outside of the chain in the big ring. The limit screws are correctly positioned and I think the problem is with the cable tension. Any tips? #AskGCNTech
My installation ( a few years back) was hell. Internal cabling (I also bought a 3T handlebar with internal cabling) with hydraulic brakes and mech shifters (Red 22) I had to route internally all the cables. Total time 1 week ( after work)
ive just installed 1x SRAM Apex on my Topstone but im having the mother of all problems getting enough tension in the rear mech to actually get the gears to change. Does anyone have any ideas or insight? The bead is seated in the brifter properly but still cant get it tight. Next station is Wits End
Why do the big channels always skip over stuff and leave it to the little guys to make the better guides? B limit screw.. Just do it correctly. How close is correct? Just use the correct distance, obviously. And it shifts two gears... well job done then I guess, lets not test the rest. Oh and the front didnt shift at first? No need to show that, we are all experts here, seen it a million times and its solution, no need to show it, it's not like this is a guide or anything.
5 mm space for the B limit screw as he mentions. There are a lot of other how to's on their channel about indexing etc. (also for the chain length) so I think they skipped that part on purpose
@@rvanderhulst86 5mm space from where to where? So many points I could measure from.
@@kidShibuya as shown in video this is 5 mm between the teeth of the largest sprocket of the cassette and the teeth of the top sprocket of the derailleur (or chain on the sprocket of the derailleur that's about the same distance) in an other video they show you that putting a 5 mm Allen key between derailleur and cassette will do the trick (as this is 5 mm)
When can we expect a full review of this nice orbea? They claim it's more comfortable than the omx..
#askgnctech/ why does GNC have such a small representation of female pro cyclists presenters? Manon is great inspiration to women!!
The boys club needs to be updated to include equal female representation to reach the ever growing demographic of avid female cyclists of be left behind.
I belong to the GNC women’s cycling club, however, this is a token effort to keep women in the background.
Thank you for you equitable consideration for this essential topic.
It's a great video, very useful but I was greatly hoping to see the installation of in-line cable tension adjusters.
What happened to those in this build?
Probably because everything is internally routed, there aren't any inline, just at the derailleurs.
@@jimcappa6815 in this case it would be even more useful to show how to tidy up Your cockpit further by moving adjusters towards derailleurs. I assume some adjusters are necessary with mechanical groupset or are they not?
@@marcing7684, the inline cable adjusters are redundant. Adjustments at the derailleurs are all you should need. They also clutter up the cockpit.
@@awesomexistence Many thanks. I'm preparing to build my Giant Revolt with Ultegra 2x11 Groupset using Jagwire sealed KIT which contains those adjusters so I wasn't sure if I need to use them or not. That answers all my doubts 👍
11:20 are you unscrewing the front derailleur screw with the torque wrench ? :O
Ultegra R-8000 rulz
Help me please
I can't find the way to avoid that the front derailleur touches the chain....
Play with the cable tension (little bolt probably located on the housing close to the handlebars), until you get it right. Don't forget to adjust the top and bottom limit screws as well. GCN made a video about it ua-cam.com/video/Ea03ChN-7Vg/v-deo.html&ab_channel=GlobalCyclingNetwork
@@Mister17L I’ve already tried, but still not enough
@@etiennelinty7534 Make sure your derailleur is parallel to the chain ring. this will require taking tension off the cable, loosening the support bolt. then adjust as in the video.
ua-cam.com/video/ZuKkpHteIj4/v-deo.html
It is in German but It helped me a lot with my 105 (latest version).
@@sktruesdale also by loosening the support bolt I stil can’t put it parallel to the chainring
Stupid question time: in installing a cassette, if there seems to be play in the three or four smallest cogs after I'm done, what did I do wrong? Asking for a friend, of course . . . #askgcntech
Did you put a skates bevind the cassette (10speed)?
Spacer
Groupset give away???? 🤔🤔🤔🤔😂🤣😂🤣😂
Why no one says which shifter goes which side
Lets play a game. You show a part. We guess if it should have grease, fiber grip, oil, or clean...
First to like😊
The simple ways was download the manual
Shimano manuals are great, made installing Di2 ultegra a breeze
Never touched that system before only mechanical.
Just as easy to install as the mechanical ultegra with the innstallation guide I found online.
Internal cables are just a nightmare. Oh, Gott!
And first viewer
Who cut the camera.
Hello everybody. Never adjust front derailleur as it is shown in this video. It is completely wrong procedure what is shown here! Till today I have had high meaning for this GCN presenter but it is clear that he did not read installation manual for this FD at all.
First comment yeheyyyy
...so, *this* week mechanical groupsets aren’t just for sub-humans?
Good day everyone.
Hope you read my message sir.
I hope to have one bike sir.
Hope you notice me sir and gave a bike if the bike is 2nd hand its OK for me. To practice sir.
I'm from Philippines 🇵🇭
That frame looks like a real pain in the @ss to thread cables... through the bottom bracket???
First tho
I'm Alone 😍😥
Would it kill you to 'clean' the old components before re-installing them? ONLY TAKES A SECOND, the splines on your free hub were filthy when you put red grease on it, your rear derailleur was filthy when you greased that one... geezzzz!! WTF dude?