2.7 ECOBOOST f-150 Oil change (the right way) + oil light reset
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
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In this video I show the process and steps necessary to change oil on your eco-boost engine. There are a couple tips and tricks a show that will help you get the job done right. Feel free to leave some comments in the comment section if you do the job a different way. Please don’t forget to like and subscribe. Thank you
I changed mine today. A 2018 2.7 ecoboost. I crawled under from the front and took the plug out part way and used the plug to block the deluge of oil so it drained straight down into the catch pan. I threaded a piece of very thin solid copper under the o rings and pulled them up out of the groove. My brother says he used a plastic dental pic to get under the o rings. Good idea. I used cardboard and puppy pee pads to protect my new concrete driveway. My oil was only warm ( not hot ). Hot oil would have burned my hand as I held the plug against the hole to drain the oil. I've changed the oil on all my vehicles for over 40 years.
Very straightforward. No nonsense, just pure professionalism. Thank you very much.
Nice vid...... buuut. Even tho i havent looked at an exploded view of the oil system, im sure theres a check valve or something to keep oil from draining out of the filter housing when engine is off. So just like on my 6.0L Super Duty I’ll pop the drain plug then move up top and service the filter. By the time you done messing with o-rings, wiping everything off and reinstalling the filter ALL the dirty oil should be clear of the motor. Slip back under to replace the plug. Finally, and this is just my OCD kicking in, Ill put a couple quarts of oil in before replacing the plastic panel underneath. That way i can be sure there is no fluid dripping from the plug. Just my thoughts. 👍👍
M-B has been using the top-mount engine oil filter design ( on its then 3,000mi. Diesel engines ) since 1977.
The gasoline engines gained the same top-mount filter sys. in 1994.
The correct procedure for replacing the oil filter/draining the engine crankcase begins with loosening the oil filter cover and raising, but not fully removing, the oil filter cover.
( This allows the oil inside the oil filter housing to drain back into the oil pan/crankcase, instead of all over the engine compartment IF you pull the cover completely off. )
Then open the oil pan and drain all the oil.
Now pull out the oil filter cover and replace the cartridge oil filter element and the O-rings. ( A small pocket screwdriver facilitates EASY removal of the O-rings. )
Refill the crankcase/oil pan with oil after replacing the oil filter cover and NOT OVERTIGHTENING...snug, but not TOO tight...about 25Nm...18ft.lbs.
Start engine and check for leaks.
Reset oil change reminder sys.
Road test.
Shut off engine and check oil level after having the car sitfor a few minutes w/engine at full operating temp.
It should be noted that the final level check on the 2.7 liter should be done 20 minutes following shut down. These ole girls take a lot longer for the oil to settle for an accurate reading.
I have a 2017 easiest oil change I've ever done since I started at 17. I'm 61 now.
I used a pair of needle nose pliers to expand the small o-ring so that it would fit. The small o-ring is tricky.
Shaun Atkinson, thank you for that suggestion. I’m doing an oil change on my sister’s F-150 this weekend,
Well done. Quick, to the point, and competent. What more can you ask for?
This was not quick and to the point.
Had a Mercedes with a top mount oil filter, love how easy and clean they are. Some cars just really make a mess with their stupid placements. I always opened my filter up to help that drain when opening the plug and it prevents a vacuum affect since it has air flow to drain.
Nice and to the point tutorial Aaron. You saved me some head scratching on finding the drain plug and oil filter.
Mission accomplished!
While the drain plug is still off, I take a half quart of oil and pour it in from the top after the rest of the oil has been drained. This tends to be enough to get the draining oil to a clean appearance. Makes me feel a little better about anything that might be sitting in the bottom of the oil pan.
On
It be better if you removed the oil pan after every oil change and have a look inside that way you can be certain that nothing is there and its super clean. Save yourself the half quart of good oil. 😝
Mark Detwiler Anything seating in the bottom of the oil pan came out when the oil did. You guys be thinking a little bit too hard.
Nothing wrong with doing it this way long as you're using some cheap oil to chase that last little bit of residue out of the pan....super tech....lol 😂
@@alanholmes2366 You are creating problems that don't exist.
Thank you for making this video. I was loosing my mind looking for the oil filter.
Paul Hugin yep, same here!
They got a new version ots the 2026-A
@@jesusmarin95 Yep, just picked a few up from the dealer. The box looks a bit different now too.
It's smaller than I imagined
Ford EcoBoost engines are well known for taking 15 minutes for all oil to drain to the pan for accurate measure in dipstick. It stands to reason the same applies for oil drain. However the 10 minute quickie place isn’t going to wait. My own vehicles? Usually change the oil cold. But the F-150 is the only one I have to put on ramps, to remove the protective access panel. So I either have to park it on the ramps and let it cool or wait 15 minutes with the plug out.
Based on experience with Powerstroke and Mercedes-Benz diesels extra care is needed with the oil filter o-rings. Is best to make sure the o-ring is not twisted, although I don’t know of any failures for simple twist. Many failures when ring doesn’t seat in groove and correctly slide into filter cavity. Under hood sprayed with oil. Pretty sure this is why Ford used 2 o-rings for redundancy.
As for torquing the filter cap, it makes no difference to the o-rings. Tighter will not seal any better. They were fully compressed when inserted into the cavity several turns before the cap bottoms. Filter cap is tightened only to keep it from coming off.
I have a 2017 f 150 , 2.7. In 2017 ford added the intermediate port injection to help clean the valves. Great vid.
I believe that was in 2018, please correct me if I’m wrong… my 2017 2.7 was built on 11/16 and I thought it had the 2nd gen. engine but I believe it was in ‘18 and newer models… can anyone else confirm this?
@@esteslandscaping6947 Yup, and I've read that the '18 is first yr of rubber oil pump belt.
Well done! I’ll hopefully not lose my mind trying to change the oil in my new to me 2016 Ford F-150 2.7L. I’ve never been a fan of cartridge filters but this video makes me a bit more confident!! Liked, subscribed and looking forward to seeing more!!
Thank you for posting this video I am a brand new owner of A 2018 2.7 and this video worked exactly the same for the year older truck I used the same motorcraft oil and filter
I had bought a fram oil filter and it’s design is different and it’s filter body is about an inch shorter see you lose about an inch of filter media I recommend Motorcraft filters
I drained the oil first (BAD), then the oil housing, and noticed dirty oil in the housing resevoir even after I allowed plenty of time for all to drain but still ended up with an overfilled 2.7 with slightly dirty oil on my dipstick! Lesson Learned
Thank you. I changed oil and filters hundreds of time and couldn't find the filter. Felt like an idiot.
Well done video, thanks! The 3.5 filter placement was terrible, this one is like my Jetta TDI! LOVE IT. ORings are good!
no kidding! on a 4x4 its the worst. the oil filter spills right on top of the front diff.
If you use a small locally manufactured cone tool such like the tip of a caulking applicator and fit it over the oil filter for the small o-ring it goes right on by expanding the o-ring perfectly even.
Thanks, doing my 1st on my new 2018 F150 EcoBoost. This vid helps a lot. Subscribed
Wow this is definitely a new style oil change for me...thanks for the informative instructions.
This is a great instructional video, but I'd like a bit of clarification on the torque specs for the oil filter housing. You've got it at 24 foot pounds or 2 Nm. That conversion doesn't add up. I believe the housing is stamped with the specs 24 NM + or - 2 NM. It's not specifying 24 ft lbs or 2 Nm. So, in foot pounds, you'd set your wrench for 18, not 24.
Absolutely helpful. Thanks!
Even though I know how to change the oil on my 2017 Ford F-150 STX 2.7L EcoBoost, I’d rather just take to the dealer every 5K (2X a year), and let them do for $39.95! That way, I’m not getting dirty and don’t have to dispose of old oil! It’s a win win!
I take off oil filler cap before changing oil (helps flow of oil out) remove filter 3/4 way through oil change and use Pennzoil Pure Platinum as well as Motocraft filter as you did. Stores sell Purolator filters for $22 but motocraft is $8 online.
710 Fill cap off? If the engine employs PCV it shouldn't make a difference in drain out. Yes I pull up the DS and take the cap off when I do service. Hard to break old habits. - Sandy
It's a very good video. I'm glad you made it. The other oil change videos are 50% useless narration
Ive had mine since it was new in 2016 and ive always paid for "the works"at my local dealer. I ordered tires through them 2 years ago and they screwed my order up and i wasted a pto day. Then they tore up my lugnuts roating my tires when i had my next service done. Today i got the works and went to get my keys to leave and pay the bill. They charged $100 just for the oil change and tire rotation and another $45 just for an ai filter. I went to get in my truck to leave and they hadnt even rotated the tires. I was to angry to say anything other than that they lost a customer today. Im gonna be doing my own from now on.
Wow that was easy! Thanks for keeping money in my pocket during this COVID crisis!
Great video, thanks for getting that out there and being straight to the point. Perfect!
Good info! Thanks!
3% wow! Kramer would love riding with you.
Regarding the small O-ring at the tip of the center section of the oil filter can, I took a wooden dowel (3/8 I think). I cut it to around a 1 1/2 inch in length. I then used my bench grinder to taper it. The small end is the size of the inside of the small o-ring. The larger end is the exact size of the ring on top of the o-ring groove. Take a hand saw and cut a cross on the face of the large end. The blade width should be the same as the width of the four fins at the top of the center section next to the o-ring groove. Put a small amount of grease on the outside of the taper. Install large end down on the end of the center section, over the cross. Pull the small O-ring over the small side of the taper, down over the large end and over the O-ring groove rail. Done!!
Genius! Good idea!
STEP ONE: Remove that carpet-laid dust cover thing and NEVER EVER install it again. Throw it in the trash. The screws rust out and/or strip out after only 1-2yr. It's a 5min oil change if it weren't for the dust cover thing always putting up a fight.
Extremely helpful - thank you!
As of 2017, Ford changed to dual direct and port injection. This prevents the build up on the valves.
On what motor? I believe on the 3.5 it was 2018
@@AaronHinesAuto I thought the 2.7 was in 2018, but I could be wrong. At least going forward it's no longer an issue.
'17 for the 3.5 then '18 for the 2.7 and 5.0
2018 F-150 2.7L has Port and Direct Injection.
I wish I would have seen this before I spent 10 minutes trying to reset my oil life like the other videos show.
Thanks bud. Helpful to see it done.
Your explaining and videos are the Best! Thank you
Only way I was able to get that small O ring over was by stretching it with pliers just enough to get it over and it slid right on.
Once the oil is draining... open the Oil filter to allow more air to get behind and more dirty oil out.
just use compressor if you want more air
Just what I needed to see. Thank you
Plastic drain plug used in hot oil and a top fed oil filter that uses replacable o rings that will NEVER get changed in most shops are just the kind of small indicators that tell me the important things I can't see probably weren't designed very well either.
Thanks Aaron! So glad I found your video. I am so tired of getting ripped off at the dealership for service. Over $50 now and they always screw something up, Grease on the seats and door handles. One tech left a bag of O-rings right in front of the air intake that caused a code light to come on. I pulled it out of the air box and put in a new air filter, it reset after a bit. Oh, does Ford recommend full syn oil? I heard better to go with the motorcraft syn blend.??
Informative and concise! Thank you!
Great job sir , I love your video!
Never ever install the drain plug until ALL the oil has drained! There's dirt and debris in those last few drops of oil!
I agree. When he put that plug back in while the oil was still streaming out was thinking the same thing. I like to toss a half quart of fresh oil in and wait til it comes out clear before re installing the plug.
Great and simple. Thank you so much!!
I think. a 27 mm socket fits a little bit tighter. Either will work.
GREAT video!!! Extremely helpful.
good stuff here, nice tips with the oil filters
This video helped a lot with my oil change thank you so much
Ford actually recommends replacing the drain plug every oil change. Apparently they break easy and fall out sometimes.
Having a 2020 with a stabilizer bar just behind the the drain plug, be ready for a mess when you remove that plug. It will splash in every possible direction!
Great video very helpful 👍 👏
Great video. Thanks for making it!
Looks a whole lot easier than my 2011 3.5 EcoBoost with that stupid funnel thing under the filter
Excellent video.
Get ready for a fast gush of oil when you pull the drain plug.
I use nothing but Motorcraft oil, filters, and other items on my Ford. My thought is; Ford designed these items to work with their vehicles and provide them with the best security to protect the warranty. Ford provides a 36/36,000 warranty and they would not risk premature failures because of inferior supplies.
Great video, well done. However in all the videos I’ve watched on doing a oil change on a 2.7L F150 Ecoboost nobody checks the dipstick after filling the new oil to ale sure the level is correct. All the videos and literature says it takes 6 quarts of new oil to replace what was drained out but I don’t see any oil on the dipstick with only 6 quarts of fresh oil. Before you ask, yes I button everything down and run the engine to normal operating temperature before I check the dipstick. I put in 7 quarts of oil before I see oil in the “proper level zone” mark on the dipstick. I know it’s not good too have not enough or too much oil in the engine. Am I doing something wrong?
Give it 20 minutes before checking level. Takes a while for all the oil to settle back into the oil pan.
I took mine into the dealer for a oil change got home check the dip stick it was too full. I called them up brought it back they changed it again still registered too full they had no answer they put in 6 quarts. Maybe I had wrong dipstick, that was not the solution either. I believe 6 quarts is right too full or not.
Good video and to the point!!!
My concern is why Ford made the filter so tiny. It doesn't seem like there could be much filter media in a canister that small.
The filter has plenty of surface area, remember it's not housed in a metal case like a spin on version, and it's taller than a FL500s or FL400s spin on filter.
Thank you. You made this process significantly easier.
The 2018 2.7 ecoboost engine has direct AND intake injection to rinse the intake valves.
not sure why all the 2016, 2017, etc 2.7 owners i know dont have any valve issues really they seem to stay clean regardless of the upgrade probably just over worried people complaining so they upgraded the 2018s
Any tips on getting the lol seal put on the end, make a man cuss! Good video
Very small screw driver, put the gasket in the ridge put the small driver through the centre and flip it over hard good luck
Putting the o-ring on the tip...I wonder if you could put the new o ring on by getting a small ratchet socket and push the o ring on. I might try that next time. One thing I know, it's like putting on the wrong size rubber on the first date, and you stumble, and stumble, and stumble.
As someone else posted. Needle nose plyers work great to expand the o'ring. Also, I have used external snap ring plyers. Either makes it simple. Make sure they are oiled good before trying to slide the o'ring on.
Amazing guide
Aaron, great video and straight forward answers to questions. I just subscribed.
Thank you!
thank you for the support!
How do the 2.7's hold up as fleet vehicles?
They must be holding up pretty well. We have a few of them at my work and I haven't heard any complaints about them. However, we also have had 5.0's since 2011 and I haven't heard any problems with them either, though we only keep them for 100k miles each.
Good video, thanks for posting. My 2018 F150 (2,7L ecoboost) owner's manual says to use 5w-30 Motorcraft synthetic blend oil and not full synthetic. Why would I use full synthetic? What is the advantage when the manufacturer recommends a blend?
Now that my FORD maintenance/service agreement has expired after 7yrs., I performed an oil/oil filter change myself.
FORD used a synthetic-blend 5w-30 in my 3.5L ECOBOOST for 60K mi.
Occasionally on engine start-up, I could hear a heavy rattling sound for a very few secs. I attributed this to the timing chain slapping, possibly due to the chain tensioner losing some of its oil pressure.
After draining the oil, I refilled the crankcase ( 6qts. ) w/MOBIL 1 FULL SYNTHETIC 5w-30.
NO MO' RATTLING NOISE on hot/cold engine start-up.
Time will tell.
I was just thinking wouldn't it be a little better to do the oil filter first so that whatever used or dirty oil is in that will also drain out with the rest.
There's no time limit to drain the oil. I pull my plug out. I go back into the house and watch a movie or get a cup of coffee and I'll come back and finish the job with nothing dripping
Great video. Thank you very much for sharing
Now all the dirty oil from the filter housing is now in your oil pan crack your filter first then when you drain the pan all the oil comes out
thats a good point. however i dont think there is enough oil left in the filter housing to make a difference. i try it out next service! thanks
I either do that or remove the fill cap
On a top mounted engine oil filter you should always take it out first there’s oil trapped in that housing
Good advice!
Very helpful 👍💯
Fantastic video thanks man
Even phone cameras have not been this bad since like 2003
🎉Thank you so much‼️
I have this engine in my Fusion Sport and it’s great. Can someone explain why I cannot pump the oil from the top for an oil change? I use my pump for my other vehicles with no issue from the top and it is much less hassle as you can imagine. I cannot get the oil to suck out the top with my oil change pump in the 2.7L.
Thx for the heads up on that. I usually use a pump, also. But just got a new to me 2018 F150 and am about to change the oil on it.
Good job
Great video
thanks!
Thank you I was surprise how the filter in the new f150 looks like more like a air filter.
I went to the auto store to purchase a oil filter for my 2018 Ford 150, and when the guy came back, I told him sorry sir I wanted an oil filter not an air filter, the guy looked at me and smiled and told me “yeah that’s your oil filter” and that’s why I’m here watching this video
ty brother
Very important note this is missing you need to let it drain for 15 minutes. So the oil thats hled in the top of the motor comes out. If you put it back in right away 2 quarts could still be in the top of the engine. Hardly anyone knows this even some idiots at ford dealers.
That’s very interesting. I know you have to wait a few minutes to check the oil once it’s off. I’ll try this next service on a 2.7. Thanks!
You need to let the engine sit for 15 minutes before checking the oil level too. Wait 15 minutes before draining the oil, add new oil, start the engine to check for leaks, turn it off then wait 15 minutes before checking the level.
Thank you for the video. It’s damn near impossible to find a socket that’s an 1in and a 16th. 😐 My truck is leaking oil like mad. People actually get mad when I park in the driveway
Our Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk has the same crappy oil filter set up. I use a 24mm socket to remove the housing.
Maybe change the o rings on the drain plug and filter housing to stop the leaks.
Northern tool will have socket that size in stock, or look on eBay people sling single sockets all the time there.
I just bought one at Autozone today. They only had one and I got it
Thank you dude this video was perfect
How many miles do those trucks go on an oil change?
The Intelligent Oil Life Monitor Calculates oil life depending on your driving habits and vehicle condition. However I never wait for the percentage to go below 10% on our fleet vehicles. I normally change the oil and filter around 3000 to 4000 miles
Aaron Hines ok. When I was driving my truck full time everyday not towing really anything at all I was going 5000 miles. Now it sits in the garage, I use it maybe once every 2 weeks and even tho its sitting the oil life percentage still goes down.
Ya I’ve noticed that too when one of our truck sits. The system uses a algorithm to determine life span of the oil and time must be a factor.
I didnt notice mine changing with driving conditions. I found it to be 10% per 1000 miles, or 1% per hundred miles. That's 5000 miles 50% and 10000 miles 0%
@@CajunEscapades I am seeing the same here. I am only on my second oil change. 9000 miles on the first sign of the change oil light. I am at 18900 and it's sending me the friendly reminder to change the oil again.
Thank you
In a non-dusty environment city driving is it OK to take it down to 3% on oil life
Isn’t the 2018 f150 2.7 eco boost 5w30 blend
5w 30 full synthetic not a blended oil
I have a 2016 2.7 EcoBoost. Just under 40K miles. Spec's call for Motorcraft synthetic blend but I hear a lot of people say go full synthetic. Thoughts and reasons why which oil is best? Thanks
Is the o ring change necessary or can I just change the filter ?
The old style oil filters are better. Less hassle to replace.
more mess no thank
@@jkeldoc1893 evidently he has never changed the filter on the 3.5 Ecoboost.😂
Aaron since you work on a fleet of 2.7 ecoboost engines what is your opinion on them? Do you think they are reliable? Are they hard to work on? Thanks.
they are great engines, they have good power and are great on gas mileage, most of our trucks are over 80k in miles now and have not seen any major repairs other then brakes and regular service.i personally haven't seen any issues but i hear since the 2.7 is a direct injection engine, oil/carbon can build up on the back of the valves eventually causing rough idle and low power, however a pcv catch can and regular maintenance with synthetic oil can avoid these issues. cheers!
I appreciate the reply and i am subscribed, keep putting out the great videos!
Great video. Do the filter O rings come with the filter?
Yes they do, thanks!
FYI, I just tried an extractor and it only pulled out about 2 quarts. I had the tube inserted the same length as the dip stick length. This extractor works fine on my car but not on this truck....
Bummer, thanks for the info!!
I thought Ford says to replace the oil plug each time.
Thank you Aaron, very helpful.
When I start my vehicle in the morning or after I get off work, I noticed a cloud of white smoke from the exhaust for about 3 to 5 seconds then it clears up. No mechanical problems noted and both oil pressure and oil level are in the normal range, any idea what may be causing that white smoke ? Only 49,297 miles on a 2016 F-150 2.7 V6 Ecoboost engine.
Interesting, how many miles?
Aaron Hines currently 49,297 miles.
Ya we have a few 2.7 trucks. When they are cold they do this. I checked with the local ford dealer and they say this is normal for those engines. Kind of strange if you ask me. Keep and eye on your fluid ( water and oil) levels.
Thank you Aaron. I will
HI...I just had my oil changed in my 2018 F150 Eco 2.7L with 39,000 mies on it. Ever since, my average mpg has dropped from 19 to 15 mpg in the same driving conditions. Any idea why this would happen. He used Valvoline Full Synthetic Oil.
Story from this week, I have a 2016 F150 2.7 with 39k miles too. I saw the gas mileage drop significantly so I intuitively checked the bottom of the truck and nothing wrong. I for some reason removed the big cover in the bottom and lo and behold it was filled with engine oil. I didn’t catch it because of the stupid cover on the bottom. The real culprit was the PLASTIC oil plug with the O Ring, and apparently it needs to be changed out every 4 oil changes
If you remove the oil filter first the oil should drain out better.
Thanks Aaron I just bought 2 2018 2.7 EcoBoost F-150’s and I do the maintenance on them as well. First time getting these motors we usually bought the 5.0 but heard good things about the 2.7. What are your thoughts on the durability on these engines? I’m in the industrial well drilling industry so we tend to be hard on them.
I maintain a fleet of trucks and equipment in arizona. We have a lot of f150s and most of them have the 2.7. Some have the 3.5. The truck 2.7l have been the most reliable by far. And better gas mileage as well. They have been virtually problem free. Most trucks in the fleet are at 150k miles with no major break downs. Only weird issue is that the rear breaks wear a lot more quickly then the front. I think it’s due to the electric parking brakes.
Aaron Hines thank you sir my work truck is a 14 f-150 5.0 and that motor has also been rock solid. I’m a 4th generation family business owner and we have always had Ford trucks! Thanks again for the reply I appreciate your input.
@@AaronHinesAuto Could the rear brake wear be from the traction control?
Is the oil life Guage accurate or is it better to go off mileage?
I go with the guage cuz it's easy but I've been told every 5000 miles with ecoboost engines