One error - the way to check for a failed accumulator is not if the fluid level doesn't drop, it is if the fluid level drops below the lower mark when running (with the suspension at normal level). If it drops below the mark then at least one of the accumulators has lost gas and is filling with fluid.
Okay! Outstanding job! Because of your video I got the nerve up and I ordered the fluid and damper on my Cl55 02 and will be doing this myself because mine is leaking. How do i get the air out after i put the damper on? Do i add the fluid then turn the car on? Do i need to open those nipples on the struts?
No need to bleed the struts, since this is return pressure is should self bleed within a few seconds after starting the car. I still recommend cycling the suspension up and down with the ride height button about 15 times.
Hello. What is procedure to depressurize system before pulsation damper replacement? What should be used to lubricate the threads of the new pulsation damper?
To depressurize the system just let the car sit for about 30 minutes it will depressurize on its own. To lubricate the threads use fresh Pentosin CH11S, also make sure the O-ring on the new pulsation damper is there and in good condition.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Hello. Thanks for reply. The car has been standing still for several days. If I lift it directly without starting it, is it okay? I think that after days closed it will be depressurized. After removing the old pulsation damper, would it be a good idea to crank to let air out of the ABC circuit before installing the new pulsation damper? Thank you.
@@Luca-tg5pb Yes it is fine to lift the car without starting it will be depressurized, only the hoses that go from the struts to the valve blocks will have pressure because the weight of the car is on them, the rest of the system will not have pressure. No need to crank to let the air out this will make big mess. Very little fluid will come out when you remove the old pulsation damper, so just put the new one on start car, let it run for about a minute then cycle the ride height a few times. Any air left in system will bubble out the fluid reservoir.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Thanks for the information, tomorrow I will go to the dealership to buy a new pulsation damper. I have another problem though: after a few days the car is stationary, the rear axle lowers too much. Because?
No I did not. Are you sure it is the power steering not the ABC lines vibrating? The ABC pump contains 2 pumps a vane pump for power steering and a radial piston pump for the ABC. The ABC side of the pump needs the pulsation damper because it is a piston pump to smooth out the fluid output. If the pulsation damper is bad you might get a vibration.
@@7.3ididiesel36 it is the powersteering line coming off the powersteering pump. And the dampner at the pump is vibrating. Would that be the abc pump? Or do you know where abc pump is?
@@jr.granados4670 That is ABC/ power steering pump. That is the ABC line that is vibrating, most likely the pulsation damper is bad. The power steering system does not have any pulsation dampers or accumulators. There is only one ABC tandem pump on the front of the engine. There are 2 pumps inside of this pump. One vane pump for power steering and another radial piston pump for the ABC. The ABC side of the system needs a pulsation damper because fluid output of the radial pump comes out in small pulses. If the pulsation damper is bad you will get vibrations.
Nice work! My question is on my 03 S55 is always low on right side about 3 inches lower than left, , left side is correct and when I raise and lower the suspension right side goes up and down but very little and doesn’t ever get to correct height always 3 inches lower. No leaks, replaced right front strut because I thought that was it but made no difference. I heard valve blocks but it doesn’t sag when shut of keeps height very well but always much lower right side, when driving still low on right side, I think it’s more from right front side than rear but not sure, whole right side leans! Any advice is helpful. Thanks.
The suspension needs to recalibrated, to do this you need the star diagnostic system or good aftermarket scan tool. Calibrating the suspension can be quite difficult, if the ride height sensor and plunger travel sensor voltage is not with in range the system will not calibrate. To calibrate the system first you calibrate the plunger travel sensors they are inside the struts, you just tell the diagnostic tool you want to calibrate them, the car will raise raise and lower itself and the plunger travel sensors will be calibrated. Next to calibrate the ride height sensors you have to enter the ride height data that the diagnostic tool gives you. Very important to do this on a level surface or the ride height will be uneven. Also check if all of the ride height sensors if they are working and not stuck. Best way would be to scan the car for codes, without being able to scan the abc system for codes it will be very difficult to know the actual problem.
I rebuilt my front and rear valve blocks today with new o-rings, lost lots of fluid and it was dark and dirty, I lowered the car of jacks and as expected it sits almost on ground, I haven’t started it yet and wanted to ask about bleeding the system, is there a bleed screw that I can open and wait for fluid to come out? How do I bleed all the air out from the major work on both valve blocks? Should I just fill the reservoir and start it? Or something else. Please let me know what you think and I’m waiting for your response before I start the car tomorrow ! Don’t want to damage anything before system gets pressure. Thank you for you help.
@@spaceexplorer6636 Yes there are bleed screws for each of the struts, the back ones are in the wheel well, front ones in front of the wheel under the front bumper. The way I would bleed the system is jack each wheel up one by one so that there is no weight on suspension on that particular wheel, open the bleed screw then using another jack, jack up the wheel compressing the strut then close the bleed screw. If you do not have a second jack then just use the weight of the car to compress the strut. Lower the car very gently so you don't damage the strut. After doing this fill the reservoir and start the car run it for about 10 seconds and turn it off to recheck the fluid level, add if needed. Then restart the car and start cycling the ride height, the car should raise and lower itself, if it does not the bleed the struts again. Cycle the ride height about 30 to 60 times to get all air out. Since the fluid is dirty it needs to be changed or it will start to cause other issues in the system. Would recommend driving the car for a few days before changing it to make sure everything is working properly. To change the fluid undo the hose going to the filter, attach a hose to it and put in a bucket, start the car, have someone inside to cycle the ride height while you add new fluid, keep doing this until clean fluid starts to come out. Then change the filters. Change the power steering fluid same way only turn the steering lock to lock instead of cycling the ride height.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Ok so I bleed system as you described before starting it, didn’t get much fluid out of bleeder screw, car on jack, suspension hanging(open bleed screw when pushing suspension up/compressing it with another jack, when compressed closed bleed valve then let suspension down, did this a few times and very little fluid came out, I think I lost a lot of fluid rebuilding my valve blocks and my lines are empty! So after doing this, should I keep doing it until I get good fluid stream or just start it for 10 seconds and recheck fluid level. (Had a weird problem never happened before my remotes don’t work and my outside lights where flashing like alarm is on but no sound? ignition doesn’t recognize my key now, I disconnect battery while I worked on it, replaced remote battery’s no difference, so not sure, after research I found that fuse number 78 might be blown so I checked it an yes it’s blown put in a new fuse keeps blowing, so looks like I need to replace my alarm siren that has a internal battery inside it based on research from forums) anyway I now need to solve this new problem now before I can continue the with the suspension.) Thanks for your help and I will follow up as soon as I get the alarm siren replaced! Hopefully that will solve it..
@@7.3ididiesel36 Thanks for this Broth. Thanks! But you know what I realized? These Accumulators are only for the front. One each, left and right. My Problem is my Rear Collapsed (after hitting unsean roadworks!). And at the back there's only one Accumulator, Im trying to see if it can be bought on its own. I'll be back to share my findings.
@@winstonjohnson2340 Yes there are two accumulators for the back. The main high pressure accumulator is mounted remotely on a hydraulic line above the rear right muffler, the smaller return pressure accumulator is mounted on the rear valve block in front of the rear left tire. Part number main high pressure accumulator 2203270115, return pressure accumulator 2203200415. The accumulators have nothing to do with ride height they hold pressure for when the pump can't keep up and smooth out pulsations form the pump and from shock from going over bumps. They are a wear item and should be replaced around every 800000 miles. Your problem is could be the rear valve block, strut travel position sensor ( inside the strut), or ride height sensor. Check the linkage going to the rear ride height sensors. Without Star Diagnostic computer you are trying to blindly fix the problem. If you can the first thing I recommend is to scan the car for codes. Other after market scan tools can do it too. I have another video on my channel replacing the accumulators It is called Mercedes ABC suspension rebuild. Hope this helps.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Fuck Me Broth you're a Gold Mine Brother! 1st of all No Codes. Ama take a look at all that and let you and everyone here know. I lowered the car myself and changed the rear left strut myself. So I kinda half know whats going on under there. After I hit the road works I raised the car after I saw the ABC message come on the dash and that night the car wouldn't go down after that. So I left it up. The next day it looked like it had lowered itself, so I cycled the suspension and it went up then down again for one last time, and only then did I see that the rear wasn't going up anymore.
@@7.3ididiesel36 One of the Lowering Links had come off. That was all. I Sorted it! And there was me delving into youtube to learn about accumulators. No harm done, met the likes fo you broth you're God Send, and Im wiser to my ride. Thats win-win. It's my opinion that anyone contemplating one of these Mercs (and we're usually is drawn by the lines or the performance) should also be attracted to the ABC and no matter what, should price in both mentally and monetarily the desire to preserve and thus enjoy this kind of most excellent suspension Man!
One error - the way to check for a failed accumulator is not if the fluid level doesn't drop, it is if the fluid level drops below the lower mark when running (with the suspension at normal level). If it drops below the mark then at least one of the accumulators has lost gas and is filling with fluid.
Great video and the step by step narration is excellent.
Thank you.
Excellent informative video ! 👏
Thank you.
Was the car whining?
Does the car was whining? When driving?
Okay! Outstanding job! Because of your video I got the nerve up and I ordered the fluid and damper on my Cl55 02 and will be doing this myself because mine is leaking. How do i get the air out after i put the damper on? Do i add the fluid then turn the car on? Do i need to open those nipples on the struts?
No need to bleed the struts, since this is return pressure is should self bleed within a few seconds after starting the car. I still recommend cycling the suspension up and down with the ride height button about 15 times.
Hello. What is procedure to depressurize system before pulsation damper replacement? What should be used to lubricate the threads of the new pulsation damper?
To depressurize the system just let the car sit for about 30 minutes it will depressurize on its own. To lubricate the threads use fresh Pentosin CH11S, also make sure the O-ring on the new pulsation damper is there and in good condition.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Hello. Thanks for reply. The car has been standing still for several days. If I lift it directly without starting it, is it okay? I think that after days closed it will be depressurized. After removing the old pulsation damper, would it be a good idea to crank to let air out of the ABC circuit before installing the new pulsation damper? Thank you.
@@Luca-tg5pb Yes it is fine to lift the car without starting it will be depressurized, only the hoses that go from the struts to the valve blocks will have pressure because the weight of the car is on them, the rest of the system will not have pressure. No need to crank to let the air out this will make big mess. Very little fluid will come out when you remove the old pulsation damper, so just put the new one on start car, let it run for about a minute then cycle the ride height a few times. Any air left in system will bubble out the fluid reservoir.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Thanks for the information, tomorrow I will go to the dealership to buy a new pulsation damper. I have another problem though: after a few days the car is stationary, the rear axle lowers too much. Because?
@@Luca-tg5pb
Did you notice that the powetsteering lines would vibrate? I have same issue
No I did not. Are you sure it is the power steering not the ABC lines vibrating? The ABC pump contains 2 pumps a vane pump for power steering and a radial piston pump for the ABC. The ABC side of the pump needs the pulsation damper because it is a piston pump to smooth out the fluid output. If the pulsation damper is bad you might get a vibration.
@@7.3ididiesel36 it is the powersteering line coming off the powersteering pump. And the dampner at the pump is vibrating. Would that be the abc pump? Or do you know where abc pump is?
@@jr.granados4670 That is ABC/ power steering pump. That is the ABC line that is vibrating, most likely the pulsation damper is bad. The power steering system does not have any pulsation dampers or accumulators. There is only one ABC tandem pump on the front of the engine. There are 2 pumps inside of this pump. One vane pump for power steering and another radial piston pump for the ABC. The ABC side of the system needs a pulsation damper because fluid output of the radial pump comes out in small pulses. If the pulsation damper is bad you will get vibrations.
@@7.3ididiesel36 thank you
Nice work!
My question is on my 03 S55 is always low on right side about 3 inches lower than left, , left side is correct and when I raise and lower the suspension right side goes up and down but very little and doesn’t ever get to correct height always 3 inches lower. No leaks, replaced right front strut because I thought that was it but made no difference. I heard valve blocks but it doesn’t sag when shut of keeps height very well but always much lower right side, when driving still low on right side, I think it’s more from right front side than rear but not sure, whole right side leans!
Any advice is helpful. Thanks.
The suspension needs to recalibrated, to do this you need the star diagnostic system or good aftermarket scan tool. Calibrating the suspension can be quite difficult, if the ride height sensor and plunger travel sensor voltage is not with in range the system will not calibrate. To calibrate the system first you calibrate the plunger travel sensors they are inside the struts, you just tell the diagnostic tool you want to calibrate them, the car will raise raise and lower itself and the plunger travel sensors will be calibrated. Next to calibrate the ride height sensors you have to enter the ride height data that the diagnostic tool gives you. Very important to do this on a level surface or the ride height will be uneven. Also check if all of the ride height sensors if they are working and not stuck. Best way would be to scan the car for codes, without being able to scan the abc system for codes it will be very difficult to know the actual problem.
Thank you, I will look for a scan tool to buy and get suspension calibrated.
I rebuilt my front and rear valve blocks today with new o-rings, lost lots of fluid and it was dark and dirty, I lowered the car of jacks and as expected it sits almost on ground, I haven’t started it yet and wanted to ask about bleeding the system, is there a bleed screw that I can open and wait for fluid to come out?
How do I bleed all the air out from the major work on both valve blocks?
Should I just fill the reservoir and start it? Or something else. Please let me know what you think and I’m waiting for your response before I start the car tomorrow ! Don’t want to damage anything before system gets pressure. Thank you for you help.
@@spaceexplorer6636 Yes there are bleed screws for each of the struts, the back ones are in the wheel well, front ones in front of the wheel under the front bumper. The way I would bleed the system is jack each wheel up one by one so that there is no weight on suspension on that particular wheel, open the bleed screw then using another jack, jack up the wheel compressing the strut then close the bleed screw. If you do not have a second jack then just use the weight of the car to compress the strut. Lower the car very gently so you don't damage the strut. After doing this fill the reservoir and start the car run it for about 10 seconds and turn it off to recheck the fluid level, add if needed. Then restart the car and start cycling the ride height, the car should raise and lower itself, if it does not the bleed the struts again. Cycle the ride height about 30 to 60 times to get all air out. Since the fluid is dirty it needs to be changed or it will start to cause other issues in the system. Would recommend driving the car for a few days before changing it to make sure everything is working properly. To change the fluid undo the hose going to the filter, attach a hose to it and put in a bucket, start the car, have someone inside to cycle the ride height while you add new fluid, keep doing this until clean fluid starts to come out. Then change the filters. Change the power steering fluid same way only turn the steering lock to lock instead of cycling the ride height.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Ok so I bleed system as you described before starting it, didn’t get much fluid out of bleeder screw, car on jack, suspension hanging(open bleed screw when pushing suspension up/compressing it with another jack, when compressed closed bleed valve then let suspension down, did this a few times and very little fluid came out, I think I lost a lot of fluid rebuilding my valve blocks and my lines are empty!
So after doing this, should I keep doing it until I get good fluid stream or just start it for 10 seconds and recheck fluid level. (Had a weird problem never happened before my remotes don’t work and my outside lights where flashing like alarm is on but no sound? ignition doesn’t recognize my key now, I disconnect battery while I worked on it, replaced remote battery’s no difference, so not sure, after research I found that fuse number 78 might be blown so I checked it an yes it’s blown put in a new fuse keeps blowing, so looks like I need to replace my alarm siren that has a internal battery inside it based on research from forums) anyway I now need to solve this new problem now before I can continue the with the suspension.) Thanks for your help and I will follow up as soon as I get the alarm siren replaced! Hopefully that will solve it..
What's the Part Number on those please?
Part number is 2203270215.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Thanks for this Broth. Thanks! But you know what I realized? These Accumulators are only for the front. One each, left and right. My Problem is my Rear Collapsed (after hitting unsean roadworks!). And at the back there's only one Accumulator, Im trying to see if it can be bought on its own. I'll be back to share my findings.
@@winstonjohnson2340 Yes there are two accumulators for the back. The main high pressure accumulator is mounted remotely on a hydraulic line above the rear right muffler, the smaller return pressure accumulator is mounted on the rear valve block in front of the rear left tire. Part number main high pressure accumulator 2203270115, return pressure accumulator 2203200415.
The accumulators have nothing to do with ride height they hold pressure for when the pump can't keep up and smooth out pulsations form the pump and from shock from going over bumps. They are a wear item and should be replaced around every 800000 miles.
Your problem is could be the rear valve block, strut travel position sensor ( inside the strut), or ride height sensor. Check the linkage going to the rear ride height sensors.
Without Star Diagnostic computer you are trying to blindly fix the problem. If you can the first thing I recommend is to scan the car for codes. Other after market scan tools can do it too.
I have another video on my channel replacing the accumulators It is called Mercedes ABC suspension rebuild. Hope this helps.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Fuck Me Broth you're a Gold Mine Brother! 1st of all No Codes. Ama take a look at all that and let you and everyone here know. I lowered the car myself and changed the rear left strut myself. So I kinda half know whats going on under there. After I hit the road works I raised the car after I saw the ABC message come on the dash and that night the car wouldn't go down after that. So I left it up. The next day it looked like it had lowered itself, so I cycled the suspension and it went up then down again for one last time, and only then did I see that the rear wasn't going up anymore.
@@7.3ididiesel36 One of the Lowering Links had come off. That was all. I Sorted it! And there was me delving into youtube to learn about accumulators. No harm done, met the likes fo you broth you're God Send, and Im wiser to my ride. Thats win-win. It's my opinion that anyone contemplating one of these Mercs (and we're usually is drawn by the lines or the performance) should also be attracted to the ABC and no matter what, should price in both mentally and monetarily the desire to preserve and thus enjoy this kind of most excellent suspension Man!
You forgot to dampen the pulsator, for sure needs eradication .
What does dampen the pulsator mean?