Відео

Thank you.

Thank you. Sadly as time goes by less and less people know how to work on these cars and as they loose value when something expensive brakes some would consider it uneconomical to repair and scrap the car. These cars are worth fixing. My car was almost being sold as a parts car when I got, I fixed everything and it is now my main everyday car. Will have 200k miles soon.

@@7.3ididiesel36 Yes Broth yes, But the Scene has these cars in very high regard, Your'ne for example: a W220 shaped S55 is well sought after Brother. And that's why mans like you, uploading videos like yours are such comforting hand to hold through what would normally be dark woods. But Car Guys have Vision, we know what these car can look like when stanced properly, and when running properly, and when rimmed up properly and only cinics see the year (read: too old) and the unfeasability (read: not worth it). My C215 with an M137... slammed on ball polished Rotirform CCVs is exemplary of the car scene as it is today. So thank you again, thank you once again Brother.

@@winstonjohnson2340 Thank you.

Part number is 2203270215.

@@7.3ididiesel36 Thanks for this Broth. Thanks! But you know what I realized? These Accumulators are only for the front. One each, left and right. My Problem is my Rear Collapsed (after hitting unsean roadworks!). And at the back there's only one Accumulator, Im trying to see if it can be bought on its own. I'll be back to share my findings.

@@winstonjohnson2340 Yes there are two accumulators for the back. The main high pressure accumulator is mounted remotely on a hydraulic line above the rear right muffler, the smaller return pressure accumulator is mounted on the rear valve block in front of the rear left tire. Part number main high pressure accumulator 2203270115, return pressure accumulator 2203200415. The accumulators have nothing to do with ride height they hold pressure for when the pump can't keep up and smooth out pulsations form the pump and from shock from going over bumps. They are a wear item and should be replaced around every 800000 miles. Your problem is could be the rear valve block, strut travel position sensor ( inside the strut), or ride height sensor. Check the linkage going to the rear ride height sensors. Without Star Diagnostic computer you are trying to blindly fix the problem. If you can the first thing I recommend is to scan the car for codes. Other after market scan tools can do it too. I have another video on my channel replacing the accumulators It is called Mercedes ABC suspension rebuild. Hope this helps.

​@@7.3ididiesel36 Fuck Me Broth you're a Gold Mine Brother! 1st of all No Codes. Ama take a look at all that and let you and everyone here know. I lowered the car myself and changed the rear left strut myself. So I kinda half know whats going on under there. After I hit the road works I raised the car after I saw the ABC message come on the dash and that night the car wouldn't go down after that. So I left it up. The next day it looked like it had lowered itself, so I cycled the suspension and it went up then down again for one last time, and only then did I see that the rear wasn't going up anymore.

@@7.3ididiesel36 One of the Lowering Links had come off. That was all. I Sorted it! And there was me delving into youtube to learn about accumulators. No harm done, met the likes fo you broth you're God Send, and Im wiser to my ride. Thats win-win. It's my opinion that anyone contemplating one of these Mercs (and we're usually is drawn by the lines or the performance) should also be attracted to the ABC and no matter what, should price in both mentally and monetarily the desire to preserve and thus enjoy this kind of most excellent suspension Man!

No need to, they are lubricated by gear oil.

@@7.3ididiesel36 Yup, but certainly not a bad idea to dip them in a container of gear oil before installing them.

Thank you. Would recommend cleaning the carburetor and check the fuel pump diaphragm, it should be very soft. Only the engines with the big fuel tank have the fuel pump diaphragm. If it still does not run properly get a new carburetor. Some small engine carburetors I have rebuilt never run right they are too worn out/ have very small passages inside that have plugs pressed in and they cannot be cleaned.

Most likely will have to remove the injection pump and drill the bolt out.

@@7.3ididiesel36 i ended up just drilling a bolt in a little bit above it and jb weld all around, holding up pretty good knock on wood

@@7.3ididiesel36 thanks for your reply, Bought my 93 IDI for my first vehicle a little while and this channel helps out tremendously ❤️

No.

No need to, the bearings are lubricated by the gear oil.

Hmmm

Ebay. It is a rebuilt flywheel and clutch kit. It will be hard to fine one since they are no longer made, but they do come up time from time.

You will might have to remove the pump to drill it out if it broke off flush, if some of it is still sticking out try to remove it with vise grips.

No need they are lubricated by gear oil.

@@7.3ididiesel36 Thank you...I have a question about the seal. I set it in there pretty good but the bearing still has some play...it floats a little...how far does the seal gotta go down? Thanks!

That is normal the seal goes in until it bottoms out when everything torqued down there should be no play.@@en.copedawg2321

Did it work for you?

No need to reseal it, it has a gasket.

Thank you for subscribing. The torque screw itself is just a screw all it does is limit fuel at low rpm. At high rpm fuel is limited by an internal leaf spring. Turing the screw out will give more fuel. There are no sensors on the pump except if you have the E40D auto gearbox there will be a throttle position sensor on the side on the pump for the gearbox. If the screw has been turned/missing it will cause fueling problems. Also it might be getting air in the system if the screw is loose or missing this will also cause running problems. You could get a new screw and try adjusting it, might fix the problem. But if the pump has over 150k miles I would consider a new/rebuilt pump as it is starting to get worn out. Hope this helps.

Thank you for answering ! My E350 has 90k miles and is currently dumping white smoke but it's def unburnt fuel so I ordered a set of injectors to swap out. I am considering just doing the pump while I'm doing the injectors anyway. The truck sat for roughly 8 years so im wondering if my problem isn't actually the pump and not the injectors ? What's your take on it ? @@7.3ididiesel36

Did you get all of the old fuel out? If it has been sitting for 8 years then the diesel will have degraded and it also could have water contamination there for it will not burn right causing smoke. If it runs ok and just smokes put fresh fuel in it with some good injector cleaner like Diesel Kleen and drive it some to see if the smoke goes away. If you replace just the injectors there is a chance that the old pump will be too weak pop the new injectors properly. @@daltonshaw3317

@@7.3ididiesel36 Yes I dumped all the old fuel before I got it running and put in fresh diesel along with additive and changed all the filters with a mix of fresh fuel and ATF to help with all components. I have decided to replace the pump along with the injectors. When I pull the pump out can I just put the new (Reman) pump right back in the same way the old one came out and then hook everything back up ? Do I need to set the timing gear top center or anything specific or can it simply be replaced the way it sits when I remove the old pump ? TIA !

My thought is that if I remove the old pump and make sure that nothing moves as it sits, then I can just fit the new pump into the same position as the old pump. Is this correct ?

Which one? I'm guessing you are talking about the metal one on the outside of the engine. This tube is for crankcase ventilation so that the vapors from the crankcase go back into the intake to be reburned.

You're welcome.

Yes this is normal. The bearings tighten when they are installed on the axel and torqued.

Yes.

@@7.3ididiesel36 awesome! Thanks my man!

The push rod is very hard to compress, if you cannot compress it by hand, compress it in a vise and put a zip tie over it to keep it compressed then cut the zip tie when you have it. Also measure the old and new push rod to be sure you have the correct push rod. If not the old push rod should work with the new slave cylinder.

Thank you.

Yes.

Thank you. Most likely it is the ABC system leaking, there are no power steering lines in this area. Could be leaking any where in this area. Remove the driver's side wheel and inner wheel liner and inspect all of the components. If they are just slightly damp and you cannot tell which one is leaking clean them all then drive the car and check again. This should help fine the leak.

I'm sorry but I do not remember but I think the main abc pressure line should rest between the exhaust and wiring harness, with the wiring harness being closest to the transmission. These cars do require a lot of patience and can be very frustrating at times, they are super high maintenance. But when these cars are working properly they drive better almost than any other car making it worth it to keep fixing them. If you think Mercedes are hard to work on you should try working on Aston Martins, they are very hard to work on. I would know because I have one.

@@7.3ididiesel36 Update: finished job this morning. Wasnt terrible just time consuming. I tried to start installing main line from front block first, that was a big waste of time. If i did job again would probably take 1/4 the time or less. Ended up running pressure line on trans side of wiring harness, looked fine to me, figured to get as far away from cat as possible. It looked like it would be ok either way, i think the main pressure line and front block crossover lines are the ones that go bad most often due to close proximity to engine and cats. When it was leaking it squirted on my RF wheel, gotta check that out on my day off, might need new pads, probably a good idea to replace brake hoses soon too.

These cars have adaptive power steering, when driving slow the steering is very light, when driving fast the steering gets heavier for better feedback/ more sporty feel. Try resetting the steering, to do this make sure the car is off with the steering straight. Start the car turn the steering wheel full lock to the left, hold for 5 seconds, turn steering wheel to the right full lock, hold for 5 seconds, straighten steering wheel turn car off, wait few seconds, restart and drive the car. Since the car had ESP codes it seems to me that these problems are caused by the ESP. Might be a bad wheel speed sensor. Had one go bad on my car caused the same steering problem. Scan the car for codes again there is good possibility that the codes came back. You need the proper dealership STAR diagnostic computer. After market scan tools are very limited on these cars. If there are no codes check the event recorder for recorded events. If something abnormal happens it should be recorded even if there is no code. To check the event recorder you must have the STAR diagnostic computer. You can buy a Chinese copy Mercedes Star 3 diagnostic computer for $300-400. The vibration could be caused by bad engine or gearbox mounts, check all of them, they fail quite often on these cars. Hope this helps.

@@7.3ididiesel36 Good advice, I'll try the steering reset! I bought an Autel MaxiPRO MP808 off Amazon, it was double the price but it's returnable and usable on other cars, so I'm gonna give it a go for now. So far it's able to do everything I need, I can read all sensor values, do active tests, etc. I saw the speed sensors in there, so I'll record them while driving and see what they say, I'm guessing they should all show the same value when driving straight? I bought the car in Salt Lake and drove it back through the mountains and only started having problem once I reached higher altitudes and colder/wetter conditions. I'm wondering if that had some impact on the steering/suspension system.

@@sewshiestrip Not sure if the cold/ wet conditions had anything to do with it. If one of the sensors was already compromised and moisture got in then it could cause problems, or this is just a coincidence and the wet conditions have nothing to do with it. Very hard to tell. Check all of the wheel speed sensor plugs for corrosion. The sensor values should be very similar.

Yes they do. I have another video on my channel starting it with the hand crank.