LiTime 100Ah... www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery/?ref=lithiumsolar LiTime 200Ah... www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-200ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery/?ref=lithiumsolar (affiliate links) (Ampere Time is now LiTime)
How the heck do you get these for free. I get lots of offers for free ( with strings attached which I will NOT do) so I been buying mine, paying less with some discounts but none come free. The cheapest one I got was a Unowix 100A they were returning as undeliverable I paid $73 for, the rest is full or near 85% cost. I do not like the idea of getting one for free since they make strings attached to it, how do you do it since you do not seem to totally kiss their butts in your reviews.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I don't accept offers with strings attached nor do I accept payment for videos. I'm here to review and demonstrate, not to make advertisements :)
Great job on the testing of the heaters and charge protection. Batteries with all these new features make the testing videos more complicated and you did an excellent job!
Thank you so much for explaining the quirky behavior. I have 4 of these in series and it has been dropping my load constantly for 6 months since install. It only happens when my solar is turned on. This totally makes sense now. Not too thrilled about this now that I have purchased 4 of them!
I LOVE MY Amperetime battery! $649.00 for a 200ah lithium battery. It’s a steel! I have 2-200ah batteries and love them. But you don’t have to spend the extra 300, for a heating blanket, you can get at any yard and garden store. A germination pad. But you can also add a battery sense to it, it keep an eye on your battery temp. But mostly people are installing them indoors, for security reasons, and to maintain temp. So the low temp mat becomes moot. So why spend the extra $300, spend 40-50, and use the rest for fuel costs, in your tow rig.
I was watching very careful during your battery removal process. You mentioned that you should call the company if you wanted to set this battery up on it's side. I did notice that the cells are placed inside the case with the cell vents facing toward the side that has the large 12V emblem. Hopefully all their batteries are built the same and don't have to be disassembled to find out. The configuration I was considering was placing the batteries on their end making it taller with three others, side by side. I don't see an immediate issue with this configuration, but I will call Ampere Time to make sure.
I actually had a comment in the video about this and the way the cells were facing, then decided to cut it out as I can't guarantee they're all built exactly the same especially different models. I don't see an issue as long as the cells are not facing down; however, as we don't know without opening - best to ask :)
I agree, the non heated version is the better choice. I'd like to see a tear down of the non heated version as it is popular and many owners would like to see the internals.
Great video, thanks for such a thorough review of the product! Regarding the quirk, have you reached out to AmpereTime on the load drop issue? I wonder if that is an issue with a the unit or batch of units and has since been fixed? For my use case, that sounds like a hard pass when this is much to potentially love about this battery.
@@LithiumSolar - I just made an insulated enclosure for some batteries and am using a small 12v heater/fan to warm it, using a thermostatically-controlled switch.
Thanks for making this video. I just purchased two of these batteries and Ampere Time is still shipping out these defective batteries. I can't believe they would keep shipping these things out. I've emailed their support requesting a refund.
As always nice review,s.... but most of the Batteries kits you are testing are only available in the USA.. Not for us in the EU ( The Netherlands) 😩 And it should be nice to mention also all your information in the Metrical System ....thank s 😃
You can get Redodo batteries, that are the same manufacturer as these. Internally they are the same. Even the manual and packaging looks more or less the same
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm not sure what you're going on about. A #8 THHN 90C is rated for 55A by the NEC for home residential wiring. If we ignore the fact that this table doesn't even apply to this application, that's still 110A for a pair of 2 conductors. Chassis wiring has a much higher rating... Nowhere is it limited to 78A.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 how is the heaters being oversized a waste? If anything it would save energy. If the battery is cold and needs to heat up before charging you would want the heater to be faster not slower, the energy is coming from the charge source and if its solar than the longer you wait for the batteries to warm up to accept a charge the less sun light you will have to charge.
I have a 300ah (non-heated) in my rv with solar charging. It ran fine for a couple years, but now the battery shuts down in the middle of the night (causing my 12v refrigerator to stop). I hit the RV briefly with 110v, then the battery pops back out of it. (Goes from 0 volts, back up to 13 volts almost instantly). What can I do?
Thanks for this video. Not sure if you can help me but I have the 100AH version of this self-heating battery in my boat. I've been using it for 7 months or so without issue, and charging with a noco 10A charger. It just got cold here (-5C or so) and I decided I would go check the battery. I leave the charger plugged in. The charger has been plugged in for 5 days so the battery should have been fully charged, at least I believe so. However it was only showing 3 bars on the noco charger indicating it was not fully charged. Do you know if this is normal with these self heating batteries? Or is there something wrong with the heating function? I also noticed the battery is quite cold to the touch. I would have though I could feel the heat.
Are you able to verify if the charger is actually providing power? I'm wondering if the BMS has the battery shut off and the charger is waiting to see voltage present before it turns on.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you for your reply. I checked it this morning before I saw your reply and the battery output was 14.6 volts which suggests (I believe) a full battery, however the noco charger still only had 3 lights on indicating a perpetual "charging" status (It normally always shows a solid green light when the battery is fully charged). I also used a laser thermometer to check the surface temp. The battery surface was about 5 or 6 degrees warmer than any other surface in the boat including my lead acid batteries which lead me to believe the heating pads were working. (1.6C temp on battery vs -5C on everything else ). I ended up disconnecting it from the onboard charger and bringing it in the house to warm up. I waited a few hours and connected it to a charger inside the house and the charger showed a full battery in about 5 minutes. The good news is the battery still seems fine and did appear to be fully charged. The not so good news is I'm still confused as to why I was not seeing a fully charged green light on the noco charger out in the cold. Since the battery draws power from the charger to heat itself I wonder if perhaps it's normal to see a constant "charging" status when charging below 0 but I'm just guessing. In any case I'll continue to monitor. Thanks again for your response, I appreciate it. Subbed.
You just mentioned that the heater turns on. Would it be better to have one controller to turn on and off all of the charge, heater, and monitor the battery system. I can see one battery failure making a issue for all. Or am I picking nit’s?
everything in canada is expensive to get .. shipping alone lol.... this is why lots of people from canada if they just need to order something small online they just add other things in the cart so its one shipping...it kinda like forces you to buy other things that you likley dont need but just get it because most the time the shipping will cost more then a item lol
If you had a hunting cabin where you wouldn’t be there for the winter would you choose a self heated battery? Or disconnect a regular lifepo4 for the winter?
Pretty sure my NON heated batteries (100ah) are exhibiting the same behavior. I have 6 in parallel, with a Victron Multiplus inverter/charger. When the batteries are above 14v they do not have any issue switching from charging to discharging, but when below about 80% SOC, any large load will cause the entire system to momentarily lose power. NOT GOOD for an RV.
I bought the 200AH model and a Victron BMV-712 Smart battery monitor (shunt + display) so I can monitor a graph of voltage, current, etc. Battery sits at 13.3 to 13.6v quiescent (no load or charging). My slide out pulls 20A but that's about the biggest draw I typically use (I do not have an inverter, and my 12v fridge does not draw much). Anyhow, so far, so good, I avoided the heated version as from looking at some specs and pics I'm pretty sure the heated vs non-heated use a different BMS circuit board, and the non-heated one seems to be much more reliable, from my limited research.
Likely similar with 15W or 20W heating pads. Just a guess. I’d be surprised if you find a tear down video on UA-cam so many people worried about their precious warranty
So quirky= design flaw. You do a good job taking apart the battery and testing but it seems to me that your more on the side of the battery company than the end user. I think it's fine to be on both sides of the isle especially if you want companies to keep sending you products to review. It just took me a minute to process your terminology. Thanks for the review. So the useable capacity with one of the most popular inverters is less than 200ah since it drops voltage so low. Is this standard with most lifepo4 packs you've tested with the mppt? Thanks again for the review.
I am very close to ordering these batteries but am very worried about it dropping load when charging, not charging, and charging agian.. Does this issue still exist, and have you contacted Amperetime about it/ got an answer?? Thank you!
I don't know what the deal is honestly. There are so many others out there that don't have this problem. I would either buy the non-heated version if you want Ampere Time or another brand/battery if you need a heated battery.
PCM = Protection Circuit Module (Google)? No, never heard of it... Sounds like it would be more reliable though because of not having user-programmed software.
@Lithium Solar it is what is in the bioenno brand batteries, I'm looking at the 300AH version but the information is very limited so I'm not sure how reliable it is
@Lithium Solar maybe you could contact Kevin and bioenno and get a 300AH to test, I know they use cylindrical cells and a PCM but that's all I know, seeing inside of one would be cool
With 200 ah cells readily available I wish they would use them and not have the risk of unmonitored paralleled cells . I just don't get it , it would be less work and cost for them as well .
Likely they already have a purchase agreement and supply for the 100AH cells. When placed in parallel, it makes no difference. Personally I would prefer this as a 24v battery pack.
@@john_in_phoenix With all due respect John , cells in parallel cannot be monitored as well as single cells with the BMS . You are only monitoring what the pair of cells voltage is , you could have a high capacity and a low capacity cell together and think it was fine when it's not . I know it's not terrible but definitely not desirable when the 200 ah cells exist and it's more cost effective , more reliable and safer .
Hellow Dear I M so glad to see you at my spot in Dhilwan, maybe I define myn first analgist Companion in Batteries making field with high potential expert.welcome man.
The fault you observed has been seen by others, at least on this self-heating 200AH version. ua-cam.com/video/HIiEy5CmJIo/v-deo.html When it is charging and discharging (i.e. under load) at the same time, then you remove the charging source, it will shut down its discharge output for a brief time. Even for normal loads, not just inverters with capacitor inrush current issues...
Well in my experience i had good stuff from liitokala. I bought a lot of 18650 panasonic ncr18650b cells and all of them tested out to be 3500mah and it has been like 5years and all of them are working good. I use them to power my camera, lights and stuff and they are regularly discharged and charged. Some of them probably have near 1000 cycles . And still all of them are above 3400mah. I do not discharge them below 3v. I paid like 2-3$ for each cell. Which is a good price as they are sold locally for not less than 10$.
I find it very difficult they are genuine. Everything I've seen says otherwise, but nothing conclusive as proof of course. Either way, I'm glad they're working for you!
@@KuntalGhosh but they are not pouch cells contained in a 12.8v pack and advertised as 150ah. When in fact at best, they only achieve just about 100ah even at a 0.2 discharge
You are not testing correctly the battery 2:58 it is 2481 Watt-hours, so 2481/12.8 = 193.82 AH @ 12.8V For this to be a 199 AH battery it should have tested to 2,551 WH. Stop basing your calculation of capacity on AH and use Watt-hours. You can use the nominal voltage of the chemistry to get the AH. Your shunt is showing the current flowing not the capacity of the battery.
Batteries are rated in Amp-hours. Testing with watt-hours does not take in to account losses in the cabling, BMS, etc. If you want to test yours that way, that's your business, but it is not a proper reflection of measured capacity vs what's printed on the datasheet.
$300 for the heating function....do they think people are that dumb? ***Looks at all the people buying overpriced batteries instead of buying cells and a BMS for 25% less*** Oh ok....Good one Ampere time. Hit em with a $300 upsell on a $50? $100? upgrade at most?
Low temperature cutoff affects charging, not discharging. Low temperatures reduce capacity and discharge rate of most cell chemistries, including lifepo4, but something this big should be able to handle 10-15w easily even in fairly cold conditions.
LiTime 100Ah... www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery/?ref=lithiumsolar
LiTime 200Ah... www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-200ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery/?ref=lithiumsolar (affiliate links)
(Ampere Time is now LiTime)
How the heck do you get these for free. I get lots of offers for free ( with strings attached which I will NOT do) so I been buying mine, paying less with some discounts but none come free. The cheapest one I got was a Unowix 100A they were returning as undeliverable I paid $73 for, the rest is full or near 85% cost. I do not like the idea of getting one for free since they make strings attached to it, how do you do it since you do not seem to totally kiss their butts in your reviews.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I don't accept offers with strings attached nor do I accept payment for videos. I'm here to review and demonstrate, not to make advertisements :)
I'm going to have to find out how much it will cost me to send to Kyiv.
Any word on the load being dropped? I was just about to order these batteries but that scared me..
Great job on the testing of the heaters and charge protection. Batteries with all these new features make the testing videos more complicated and you did an excellent job!
Thank you so much for explaining the quirky behavior. I have 4 of these in series and it has been dropping my load constantly for 6 months since install. It only happens when my solar is turned on. This totally makes sense now. Not too thrilled about this now that I have purchased 4 of them!
I LOVE MY Amperetime battery! $649.00 for a 200ah lithium battery. It’s a steel! I have 2-200ah batteries and love them. But you don’t have to spend the extra 300, for a heating blanket, you can get at any yard and garden store. A germination pad. But you can also add a battery sense to it, it keep an eye on your battery temp. But mostly people are installing them indoors, for security reasons, and to maintain temp. So the low temp mat becomes moot. So why spend the extra $300, spend 40-50, and use the rest for fuel costs, in your tow rig.
Brilliant. Zero waflle, straight to the points we all want to know. Many thanks.
I was watching very careful during your battery removal process. You mentioned that you should call the company if you wanted to set this battery up on it's side. I did notice that the cells are placed inside the case with the cell vents facing toward the side that has the large 12V emblem. Hopefully all their batteries are built the same and don't have to be disassembled to find out. The configuration I was considering was placing the batteries on their end making it taller with three others, side by side. I don't see an immediate issue with this configuration, but I will call Ampere Time to make sure.
I actually had a comment in the video about this and the way the cells were facing, then decided to cut it out as I can't guarantee they're all built exactly the same especially different models. I don't see an issue as long as the cells are not facing down; however, as we don't know without opening - best to ask :)
Love the way you instruct and do the project keep doing more 👍🏻
I agree, the non heated version is the better choice. I'd like to see a tear down of the non heated version as it is popular and many owners would like to see the internals.
I have a video of the non-heated 100Ah already. Check my other videos.
Great video, thanks for such a thorough review of the product! Regarding the quirk, have you reached out to AmpereTime on the load drop issue? I wonder if that is an issue with a the unit or batch of units and has since been fixed? For my use case, that sounds like a hard pass when this is much to potentially love about this battery.
Great review. No way I'd pay $300 for a heated version of this battery. I'm not sure why they think it is worth that much more.
I agree. I really like their batteries - a lot, but just not a fan of heated batteries in general personally.
@@LithiumSolar - I just made an insulated enclosure for some batteries and am using a small 12v heater/fan to warm it, using a thermostatically-controlled switch.
That load drop "quirky feature" seems like a bug to me.
Thanks for making this video. I just purchased two of these batteries and Ampere Time is still shipping out these defective batteries. I can't believe they would keep shipping these things out. I've emailed their support requesting a refund.
Wow, that's rather poor... This is an old video too, no excuse for not having fixed the problem :/
As always nice review,s....
but most of the Batteries kits you are testing are only available in the USA..
Not for us in the EU ( The Netherlands) 😩
And it should be nice to mention also all your information in the Metrical System ....thank s 😃
Sorry. This is a US channel and it's difficult to keep up with products in my own country let alone other countries.
You can get Redodo batteries, that are the same manufacturer as these. Internally they are the same. Even the manual and packaging looks more or less the same
So if I try and charge below 32f with the non-heater version I could damage the battery ? No low temp protection ?
Correct. Their standard line of batteries does not have low-temperature charging protection.
Love to test this at my off-grid cabin in Northern Ontario. 👍
That BMS dropping the load is a big problem for a lot of installations, very strange.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm not sure what you're going on about. A #8 THHN 90C is rated for 55A by the NEC for home residential wiring. If we ignore the fact that this table doesn't even apply to this application, that's still 110A for a pair of 2 conductors. Chassis wiring has a much higher rating... Nowhere is it limited to 78A.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 how is the heaters being oversized a waste? If anything it would save energy. If the battery is cold and needs to heat up before charging you would want the heater to be faster not slower, the energy is coming from the charge source and if its solar than the longer you wait for the batteries to warm up to accept a charge the less sun light you will have to charge.
@@JOHNDANIEL1😂😂 okay.
Thank You ! Great Job...
I don't think the date on the BMS is that actual DOM. It is more likely the date that the version of the board was released.
That sounds perfectly logical as well.
I have a 300ah (non-heated) in my rv with solar charging. It ran fine for a couple years, but now the battery shuts down in the middle of the night (causing my 12v refrigerator to stop). I hit the RV briefly with 110v, then the battery pops back out of it. (Goes from 0 volts, back up to 13 volts almost instantly). What can I do?
Thanks for this video. Not sure if you can help me but I have the 100AH version of this self-heating battery in my boat. I've been using it for 7 months or so without issue, and charging with a noco 10A charger. It just got cold here (-5C or so) and I decided I would go check the battery. I leave the charger plugged in. The charger has been plugged in for 5 days so the battery should have been fully charged, at least I believe so. However it was only showing 3 bars on the noco charger indicating it was not fully charged. Do you know if this is normal with these self heating batteries? Or is there something wrong with the heating function? I also noticed the battery is quite cold to the touch. I would have though I could feel the heat.
Are you able to verify if the charger is actually providing power? I'm wondering if the BMS has the battery shut off and the charger is waiting to see voltage present before it turns on.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you for your reply. I checked it this morning before I saw your reply and the battery output was 14.6 volts which suggests (I believe) a full battery, however the noco charger still only had 3 lights on indicating a perpetual "charging" status (It normally always shows a solid green light when the battery is fully charged). I also used a laser thermometer to check the surface temp. The battery surface was about 5 or 6 degrees warmer than any other surface in the boat including my lead acid batteries which lead me to believe the heating pads were working. (1.6C temp on battery vs -5C on everything else ). I ended up disconnecting it from the onboard charger and bringing it in the house to warm up. I waited a few hours and connected it to a charger inside the house and the charger showed a full battery in about 5 minutes. The good news is the battery still seems fine and did appear to be fully charged. The not so good news is I'm still confused as to why I was not seeing a fully charged green light on the noco charger out in the cold. Since the battery draws power from the charger to heat itself I wonder if perhaps it's normal to see a constant "charging" status when charging below 0 but I'm just guessing. In any case I'll continue to monitor. Thanks again for your response, I appreciate it. Subbed.
Between this one and EnjoyBot 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 which is better ? If i had to choose one ...
You just mentioned that the heater turns on. Would it be better to have one controller to turn on and off all of the charge, heater, and monitor the battery system. I can see one battery failure making a issue for all. Or am I picking nit’s?
The price in America is good price for the non heated but Canada is over 3 times that price lol.
everything in canada is expensive to get .. shipping alone lol.... this is why lots of people from canada if they just need to order something small online they just add other things in the cart so its one shipping...it kinda like forces you to buy other things that you likley dont need but just get it because most the time the shipping will cost more then a item lol
I know its brutal! I paid $560 for the 100ah recently
I paid 650 cads for the 100ah with self heating.
If you had a hunting cabin where you wouldn’t be there for the winter would you choose a self heated battery? Or disconnect a regular lifepo4 for the winter?
I would choose a regular (non-heated) battery and just disconnect it through the winter if I wasn't there.
Gutes Video 👍🤗👍🤗
Has this "load drop" issue ever been observed in the NON self-heating model? Does anyone know if that regular 200AH model uses a different BMS model?
Pretty sure my NON heated batteries (100ah) are exhibiting the same behavior. I have 6 in parallel, with a Victron Multiplus inverter/charger. When the batteries are above 14v they do not have any issue switching from charging to discharging, but when below about 80% SOC, any large load will cause the entire system to momentarily lose power. NOT GOOD for an RV.
I bought the 200AH model and a Victron BMV-712 Smart battery monitor (shunt + display) so I can monitor a graph of voltage, current, etc. Battery sits at 13.3 to 13.6v quiescent (no load or charging). My slide out pulls 20A but that's about the biggest draw I typically use (I do not have an inverter, and my 12v fridge does not draw much). Anyhow, so far, so good, I avoided the heated version as from looking at some specs and pics I'm pretty sure the heated vs non-heated use a different BMS circuit board, and the non-heated one seems to be much more reliable, from my limited research.
Where did you pick up the little heater? Excellent breakdown and review.
There are a lot of them on Amazon if you just search "12V Heater". This is the specific one I ordered amzn.to/3FQqQpV
Would you assume the heated 100ah version to be built the same? Thanks for the great video.
Likely similar with 15W or 20W heating pads. Just a guess. I’d be surprised if you find a tear down video on UA-cam so many people worried about their precious warranty
What good is it if it drops the load every time you stop charging it?
Does the NON HEATED version have the same "querkiness" with the BMS (dropping load)?
The 100Ah non-heated that I reviewed a while back did not. I have not reviewed the 200Ah non-heated model.
Does the quirky behaviour still do the same if the supply from the PSU was reduced slowly?
Yes, same behavior
So quirky= design flaw. You do a good job taking apart the battery and testing but it seems to me that your more on the side of the battery company than the end user. I think it's fine to be on both sides of the isle especially if you want companies to keep sending you products to review. It just took me a minute to process your terminology. Thanks for the review. So the useable capacity with one of the most popular inverters is less than 200ah since it drops voltage so low. Is this standard with most lifepo4 packs you've tested with the mppt? Thanks again for the review.
❤ great video!!! Can this be used in a starting application as well? Like for marine outboards? Thanks 🙏
No. This battery is not for any kind of engine starting.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks
This screws on that cell 's is weldet or not?
The busbars are welded to the cells. There are no screws.
I am very close to ordering these batteries but am very worried about it dropping load when charging, not charging, and charging agian.. Does this issue still exist, and have you contacted Amperetime about it/ got an answer?? Thank you!
I don't know what the deal is honestly. There are so many others out there that don't have this problem. I would either buy the non-heated version if you want Ampere Time or another brand/battery if you need a heated battery.
@@LithiumSolar thank you! You rule! I think I’ll go there varter
Do you have any experience or input on a lifepo4 that uses a PCM instead of a BMS?
PCM = Protection Circuit Module (Google)? No, never heard of it... Sounds like it would be more reliable though because of not having user-programmed software.
@Lithium Solar it is what is in the bioenno brand batteries, I'm looking at the 300AH version but the information is very limited so I'm not sure how reliable it is
@Lithium Solar maybe you could contact Kevin and bioenno and get a 300AH to test, I know they use cylindrical cells and a PCM but that's all I know, seeing inside of one would be cool
Did they provide the battery free to you or did you pay for it? I have been wanting to see a review of there heated battery
They sent me the battery. They did not pay me. I do not accept payments for any review videos.
What don't you like about the Bestek 2000?
The internal build quality is, in my opinion, very poor.
Any good for car audio?
Yes akb LiFePo4. 🔋⚡💡👍
With 200 ah cells readily available I wish they would use them and not have the risk of unmonitored paralleled cells . I just don't get it , it would be less work and cost for them as well .
Likely they already have a purchase agreement and supply for the 100AH cells. When placed in parallel, it makes no difference. Personally I would prefer this as a 24v battery pack.
@@john_in_phoenix With all due respect John , cells in parallel cannot be monitored as well as single cells with the BMS . You are only monitoring what the pair of cells voltage is , you could have a high capacity and a low capacity cell together and think it was fine when it's not . I know it's not terrible but definitely not desirable when the 200 ah cells exist and it's more cost effective , more reliable and safer .
👍🤗
Hellow Dear I M so glad to see you at my spot in Dhilwan, maybe I define myn first analgist Companion in Batteries making field with high potential expert.welcome man.
The tighter, the better 😊on the straps
"pretty good choice" but it will drop the load. Bro. Where's the integrity?
Pretty good Bulbasaur
Why do the Chinese use foam blocks and huge air spaces in between their battery cells and cases? That's just wasted space.
Because it's much cheaper to grab a standard mass-produced case than have a different case designed for each battery.
Hi from Philippines
Hello :)
They do have good communications but ...
The fault you observed has been seen by others, at least on this self-heating 200AH version. ua-cam.com/video/HIiEy5CmJIo/v-deo.html When it is charging and discharging (i.e. under load) at the same time, then you remove the charging source, it will shut down its discharge output for a brief time. Even for normal loads, not just inverters with capacitor inrush current issues...
Just don't buy a Liitokala battery which I found out to my expense.
LOL yeah... I have a video on that company here
ua-cam.com/video/QcisAQ-NvgE/v-deo.html
Well in my experience i had good stuff from liitokala. I bought a lot of 18650 panasonic ncr18650b cells and all of them tested out to be 3500mah and it has been like 5years and all of them are working good. I use them to power my camera, lights and stuff and they are regularly discharged and charged. Some of them probably have near 1000 cycles . And still all of them are above 3400mah. I do not discharge them below 3v. I paid like 2-3$ for each cell. Which is a good price as they are sold locally for not less than 10$.
I find it very difficult they are genuine. Everything I've seen says otherwise, but nothing conclusive as proof of course. Either way, I'm glad they're working for you!
@@KuntalGhosh but they are not pouch cells contained in a 12.8v pack and advertised as 150ah. When in fact at best, they only achieve just about 100ah even at a 0.2 discharge
just build your own out of 230ah cells from 18560 battery online its on sale ..smaller size compared to this 21 inch long battery with a funky BMS lol
That's tens of hours of work at least. This is 5 minutes.
You are not testing correctly the battery 2:58 it is 2481 Watt-hours, so 2481/12.8 = 193.82 AH @ 12.8V
For this to be a 199 AH battery it should have tested to 2,551 WH. Stop basing your calculation of capacity on AH and use Watt-hours. You can use the nominal voltage of the chemistry to get the AH. Your shunt is showing the current flowing not the capacity of the battery.
Batteries are rated in Amp-hours. Testing with watt-hours does not take in to account losses in the cabling, BMS, etc. If you want to test yours that way, that's your business, but it is not a proper reflection of measured capacity vs what's printed on the datasheet.
What he said .
$300 for the heating function....do they think people are that dumb? ***Looks at all the people buying overpriced batteries instead of buying cells and a BMS for 25% less***
Oh ok....Good one Ampere time. Hit em with a $300 upsell on a $50? $100? upgrade at most?
Gg
???????????????????????? WTF
I wouldn't buy that..
Useless
Low temp cut off is a double edge sword - lets say U are freezing and need to charge phone - battery wont work because its to cold - oops
Low temperature cutoff affects charging, not discharging. Low temperatures reduce capacity and discharge rate of most cell chemistries, including lifepo4, but something this big should be able to handle 10-15w easily even in fairly cold conditions.
A properly-designed and properly-programmed BMS (which is most that I've seen) can control charging and discharging separately.
they have a 400ah version in what looks like the same size box, r u gonna test that one too? cos i dont believe it has 400ah capacity
Just got a 400Ah battery in from another (very similar) company. Review will be up very soon, hopefully tomorrow 🙂