I made the mistake of using the ECS Tuning DSG kits. Three issues: #1 - and this is the big one - the DSG bolt pans were wrong. 2013 B8.5 S4. The OEM bolts have a pointed tip. The ECS tuning bolts are the same length, but a flat tip. Due to this flat tip, the bolts bottom out instead of tightening, and I ended up snapping one into the transmission. That was a fun 40 minutes getting it out and I was stuck using the original bolts to finish the service. #2 - you end up paying for 2 different O-rings for the external filter...and the filter already comes WITH THE O-RINGS. Waste of money #3 - this is a bit more minor, but I only needed a hair under 6L to do the full service, but the kit came with 7L of fluid, so I paid for a bottle that wasn't needed.
Re: bolt pans, id not bother changing bolts, yes they are torqued... but are not stretch bolts, original bolts will be fine.. as you mentioned if you get supplied wrong bolts it could turn into a nightmare
This is an amazingly great video 📹. Thank you for posting. What is the purpose of this Adaptation and what happens if u changed the DSG fluid but you didn't do the Adaptation?
Refer this to a TSB (forgot the number code) this is a known problem and I had it on my s7 when in sport mode. Audi charged me about 70 dollars and it fixed right away .
very good video. I cannot find a similar video on UA-cam.I have also S6 c7 2014 with dsg sport differential Please answer me if I can use G052145S2 this oil for the center differential. and give me the part number for transfer gear ''ATF''. thank you
Is the differential service the same for sport and non sport models? Recently purchased an s4 and not sure how to check if it does have the sport diff. 14” s4, it does have a mode selector with 3 options on the cluster comfort dynamic and I forget the third one lol. Thanks in advanced.
Hi Derek, do you have a procedure for changing the ATF fluid in the sport differential as far as the steps to purge the air out of the solenoids using VCDS? I see the #22 AWD module but once there I don't see what to choose to do the actual purge. Any info you have on this would be appreciated!
I wish you had shown in more detail how to get the pan past the hydraulic lines either side. I tried this DIY yesterday and became stuck at that point. The pan wouldn't move past the solid coolant/hydraulic lines so I couldnt do the internal filter
If you have a TCU tune like APR, does the adaptation clear the new programming? Also, if it's been 15,000 since last service and it's not quite shifting right, would a new adaptation be of any benefit. My '13 is just a little sluggish to engage or down shift at times. It's got 113K miles on it.
Very thorough explanation of everything involved. I did however notice that you did not do the "Main Pressure Valve Calibration". Is this step not necessary? When would one do the "Main Pressure Valve Calibration"? Thanks!
Really great video. Very through and well covered. Is there any residual (dirty ) fluid left in the system that could be flushed out? Or is this the way this is done? Thank you, Jim
There is always some fluid left in the system, but it shouldn't be enough to hurt anything. Make sure you give the car enough time for the fluid to settle before draining. The filter should be holding most of the harmful particulates. At this time, I do not know of another way to remove 100% of the fluid beyond pulling the transmission apart and cleaning everything which is far more complicated and involved. You do not want to run the risk of running the clutches dry as it will cause serious damage resulting in replacing the clutches all together.
@@ecstuning Thank you for your answer. I just did one and then after 20 miles just drained what came out and refilled with more new fluid. It really shifts awesome now. Thank you for showing all the computer details, we still had to read the procedure twice to make sure we were doing it the same as you showed. Awesome. Jim
Hi, is it necessarily to make the adaptation? Or just an option. My car's shifting pretty good now, so just the oil change is enough? Thank you for your answer
Great video. I have a question about servicing the DSG. I have an Audi A4 B9, after changing the oil of the AFT, changing the oil and filters of the MFT, when I start the car I'm getting the following error - Gearbox Malfunction ( No Reverse Gear ). The car won't go neither to Drive, nor Reverse, it stays in place. Is there any adaptation needed, because I've followed an Audi servicing Manual for my car, and there was no mention for any adaptation, etc. I would appreciate any help on that matter. Thanks!
Thank you ECS for this great DIY, Just to clarify on the last fill up when the temp needs to be 30 to 40 C, do the car needs to be off or in idle? Thanks Again.
Hey just two questions on the clutch adaption and the 2 hours step where you saying drive in d and s mode, so I take it do an hour in s and d each? Also can the two hours of driving be done in a several trips, or does it need to be continuous driving?
For the last step, instead of ‘clutch engagement point adaptation’ the closest I found in my VCDS is ‘adaptation of clutch kiss points’. I’m guessing those are the same, correct?
Great video. Appreciate the DIY/easy approach to servicing these cars. I do have a 17' A4 allroad which I've been told uses the DL382-7Q trans-not the DL-501. It has the Ultra-Quattro too. Two questions: 1) will this service kit also work for the DL382, and do you know if it is a similar process for performing adaptation with VCDS? @ECS Tuning
@@ecstuning Adaptcja serwisowa działa, może nazwy funki nie są takie same ale tyczą się tego samego, i kolejność jest taka sama,, jeżeli ktoś sobie zyczy opracowałem pod VCP , na podstawie twojego opisu i swoich prób.
Why doesn't anyone address the gear oil in the DSG? I get not doing the ATF in the diff... but gear oil in the trans and diff at the same time seems like a no brainer?!? I can't find anything showing this although I presume it's as simple as my 6MT. Got any hints? Cheers, KS
Do you have to drive around for 1-3 hours IN A ROW after doing this adaptation? Or does it just finish when it finishes... (and to 2nd EJ's comment, will this effect or change a TCU tune in any way? Mine is APR Stage Final) Thank you great video.. a little more in depth than Deutsche Auto's
You do not have to drive for 1-3 hours straight after the adaptation, it just takes from 1 to 2 hours to fully adapt. This can be done over many drives as long as you are between the even and odd gears to set both clutches. This will not mess up a TCU tune. My S6 has an APR TCU tune which controls a lot of other values and target points such as line pressure, clamp load, rev limiter, etc.
Grazie per il video non o visto uno fino ora fare il tuo procedimento Top a mia machina aveva 30 m k quando o fatto il chambio olio in officina faceva dei strappi lo fato io ora seguendo te un altra macchina Grazie.
Hi are you guys able to run through what to do when you get "error request out of range" or "aborted for safety reasons", I can't seem to get past "Erase counter for start and stop processes" it just gives me the "error request out of range". Trans is at 50C, ign on, in park and parking brake on....
hey guys, I have to swap my sport differential out for a new sport differential. Do you have any leads on how to adapt the new sport diff to the to the car? it's 2013 b8.5 s5 stronic. It was throwing the implausible signal code and the electric motor and pump had gone out. I can't find much information online about the adaptation process for the sensors etc.
transmission working absolutely fine just I’m getting error repeatedly Gearbox is overheating change driving style .. and fault code is P1765 hydraulic sensor 2 adaptation limit reached ( g194).. the local mechanic recommend to change valve body ..
Mine is failing on clutch engagment point adaptation part. When doing the engagement point caibration it finishes the process for clutch 1 but when it tries to set engagement point for clutch 2 it aborts due to safety reasons. Bit stuck what to do here. Any ideas why it might be failing just on clutch 2? When looking at the pressure values while its trying to calibrate, for clutch 1 the pressure starts from about 2 bar and gradually goes to to about 2.8 bar then completes, then when it moved to calibrate clutch 2 it just sits a about 2 bar for a few seconds and then you get the aborted for safety reasons message :(
@@alinbaraiac1543 I cant remember exactly what I did now, but it did work eventually. I wrote down exact instructions on what I did for my 2013 3.0 TDI so maybe its of some use :) I think some of my steps are unnecessary, but i as just annoyed faffing around with this so one way or another, the steps i followed below seemed to work >> 1. Drive car from cold until transmission fluid reaches 41 degrees. 2. Park and engine off 3. Go to auto trans, basic settings with VCDS and ‘erase counter for start and stop process’. When it says not running click stop. 4. Start the car in park, take off hand brake and put foot on brake 5. Do ‘clutch valve calibration’ then when it says finished correctly hit ‘done and go back’ (dont click ‘stop’, not sure if this is required but its what a guy did on a youtube video) 6. Go back to basic settings again and do ‘distance sensor calibration’ then click stop, then ‘done and go back’ 7. Stop engine, then turn on ignition only 8. Reconned to VCDS, go back to basic settings, bring up the live view of clutch pressures so you can see whats happening and then do ‘restart point adaptation to factory setting’ then click ‘stop’ when its finished’ 9. Start the engine 10. Do ‘clutch engagepoint point adaptation’ then click ‘stop’ then ‘done and go back’ then exit everything in VCDS and turn off engine, take key out, wait 10+ seconds 11. Start engine, go back to auto trans then ‘advanced measuring blocks’ display the info for clutch adaptation status and also clutch 1 and 2 pressure values. Note: When i started driving for a bit, these values kept switching to N/A as VCDS lost connection. Not sure why, but had to keep resetting VCDS and displaying these, after doing that about 3 or 4 times they would keep displaying property. 12. Drive in all gears for 3 seconds including reverse (not sure if this is necessary, but did it anyway to make sure it was driving OK after the above calibrations) 13. Drive car on level ground (long dual carriageway ideal) at 60mph in 6th gear until ‘break in’ complete Then at 50mph in 5th gear until ‘break’ in complete. While doing these, keep eye on live mpg usage, so you can keep that as static as possible. In my 3.0 TDI it was about 49mpg at those speeds in each gear when the calibration steps worked.
@@alinbaraiac1543 No worries, let me know how you get on :-) I curious to know if what I did made a difference or if it was just a case of me retrying it over and over until it eventually worked lol
Hi nice video. Can you help me with my problem please. My transmission always show me P287B00. I did all according instruction (Rosstech forum) Thank you
A5's never came with an S-tronic gearbox (in the states, but they may have elsewhere in the world). If it truly is an S-tronic gear box, it is indeed a DSG and this adapation will work. With that being said, most A5's came with a tip Tronic gearbox which is not a DSG.
I did my DSG service on my B8.5 S4. Didn't do any kind of clutch adaptation routine, but it's been fine. I haven't looked to see if that's even possible with an OBDEleven (Don't have VCDS). Anybody know? Still need to do the sport diff.
i .. I have Audi 7 2013.. transmission working absolutely fine just I’m getting error Gear is overheating change driving style .. and fault code is P1765 hydraulic sensor 2 adaptation limit reached .. pls advise what could be the actual problem??
This is the most comprehensive, no nonsense instruction I’ve ever seen on UA-cam, I seriously appreciate it, so I bought the full kit listed below.
I wish we had guys like this in Australia!
Another great, life/time saving video.. Thanks ECS Tuning...
Amazing video and I needed this as I got my kit from you guys and doing the dsg service right now for my 13 RS5
I made the mistake of using the ECS Tuning DSG kits. Three issues:
#1 - and this is the big one - the DSG bolt pans were wrong. 2013 B8.5 S4. The OEM bolts have a pointed tip. The ECS tuning bolts are the same length, but a flat tip. Due to this flat tip, the bolts bottom out instead of tightening, and I ended up snapping one into the transmission. That was a fun 40 minutes getting it out and I was stuck using the original bolts to finish the service.
#2 - you end up paying for 2 different O-rings for the external filter...and the filter already comes WITH THE O-RINGS. Waste of money
#3 - this is a bit more minor, but I only needed a hair under 6L to do the full service, but the kit came with 7L of fluid, so I paid for a bottle that wasn't needed.
Re: bolt pans, id not bother changing bolts, yes they are torqued... but are not stretch bolts, original bolts will be fine.. as you mentioned if you get supplied wrong bolts it could turn into a nightmare
Legend bro ! Peeeerfectly explained (some names in vids are slightly different depending on the version ) but overall is perfect
This is an amazingly great video 📹. Thank you for posting. What is the purpose of this Adaptation and what happens if u changed the DSG fluid but you didn't do the Adaptation?
Perfect timing I need to do this ASAP
What a truly "fantastic' tutorial.... and I'm in the UK (yes)...on the other side of the pond from you folks...
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Do you have the video to replace the ATF side of the differential?
BRAVO UN TRAVAIL DE PROFESSIONNALISME
Thanks ECS!!! Purchased my DSG service kit from you guys! Going to try the clutch adaptation to try and fix RPM surge when coming to a complete stop.
Refer this to a TSB (forgot the number code) this is a known problem and I had it on my s7 when in sport mode. Audi charged me about 70 dollars and it fixed right away .
@@cabelosurf really? They fixed it for that out if warranty? If you find that tsb # hook me up.
@cabelosurf did you ever find the number?
very good video. I cannot find a similar video on UA-cam.I have also S6 c7 2014 with dsg sport differential Please answer me if I can use G052145S2 this oil for the center differential. and give me the part number for transfer gear ''ATF''. thank you
Great one
Is the differential service the same for sport and non sport models? Recently purchased an s4 and not sure how to check if it does have the sport diff. 14” s4, it does have a mode selector with 3 options on the cluster comfort dynamic and I forget the third one lol. Thanks in advanced.
Hi Derek, do you have a procedure for changing the ATF fluid in the sport differential as far as the steps to purge the air out of the solenoids using VCDS? I see the #22 AWD module but once there I don't see what to choose to do the actual purge. Any info you have on this would be appreciated!
I wish you had shown in more detail how to get the pan past the hydraulic lines either side. I tried this DIY yesterday and became stuck at that point. The pan wouldn't move past the solid coolant/hydraulic lines so I couldnt do the internal filter
I bent the line out of the way its barely blocking it. It looks like he unbolted the line from the cooler
If you have a TCU tune like APR, does the adaptation clear the new programming? Also, if it's been 15,000 since last service and it's not quite shifting right, would a new adaptation be of any benefit. My '13 is just a little sluggish to engage or down shift at times. It's got 113K miles on it.
Very thorough explanation of everything involved. I did however notice that you did not do the "Main Pressure Valve Calibration". Is this step not necessary? When would one do the "Main Pressure Valve Calibration"? Thanks!
Sex dvije žene
Really great video. Very through and well covered.
Is there any residual (dirty ) fluid left in the system that could be flushed out? Or is this the way this is done?
Thank you, Jim
There is always some fluid left in the system, but it shouldn't be enough to hurt anything. Make sure you give the car enough time for the fluid to settle before draining. The filter should be holding most of the harmful particulates. At this time, I do not know of another way to remove 100% of the fluid beyond pulling the transmission apart and cleaning everything which is far more complicated and involved. You do not want to run the risk of running the clutches dry as it will cause serious damage resulting in replacing the clutches all together.
@@ecstuning Thank you for your answer. I just did one and then after 20 miles just drained what came out and refilled with more new fluid. It really shifts awesome now. Thank you for showing all the computer details, we still had to read the procedure twice to make sure we were doing it the same as you showed. Awesome. Jim
Hi, is it necessarily to make the adaptation? Or just an option. My car's shifting pretty good now, so just the oil change is enough? Thank you for your answer
Great video. I have a question about servicing the DSG. I have an Audi A4 B9, after changing the oil of the AFT, changing the oil and filters of the MFT, when I start the car I'm getting the following error - Gearbox Malfunction ( No Reverse Gear ). The car won't go neither to Drive, nor Reverse, it stays in place. Is there any adaptation needed, because I've followed an Audi servicing Manual for my car, and there was no mention for any adaptation, etc. I would appreciate any help on that matter. Thanks!
ECS supplied hardware soft and inadequate.the heads break off using hand tools and torque wrench. Recommend OE hardware
Do i have to drive for two hours at a time?
Or possible in stages?
Perfect Video .THX
Thank you ECS for this great DIY, Just to clarify on the last fill up when the temp needs to be 30 to 40 C, do the car needs to be off or in idle? Thanks Again.
Hey just two questions on the clutch adaption and the 2 hours step where you saying drive in d and s mode, so I take it do an hour in s and d each? Also can the two hours of driving be done in a several trips, or does it need to be continuous driving?
hello have a question do you have to keep the foot brake or service brake pressed when you do the adaptation with vcds? Thanks
For the last step, instead of ‘clutch engagement point adaptation’ the closest I found in my VCDS is ‘adaptation of clutch kiss points’. I’m guessing those are the same, correct?
What a handsome car 🤤
Great video. Appreciate the DIY/easy approach to servicing these cars. I do have a 17' A4 allroad which I've been told uses the DL382-7Q trans-not the DL-501. It has the Ultra-Quattro too. Two questions: 1) will this service kit also work for the DL382, and do you know if it is a similar process for performing adaptation with VCDS? @ECS Tuning
Derek says "The service kit will not work as it probably uses a different gasket and filter. Adaptation will probably not carry over too."
@@ecstuning Adaptcja serwisowa działa, może nazwy funki nie są takie same ale tyczą się tego samego, i kolejność jest taka sama,, jeżeli ktoś sobie zyczy opracowałem pod VCP , na podstawie twojego opisu i swoich prób.
@@pankasprzyk Hi Kasper, Czy testowałeś to na samochodzie ze skrzynią biegów DL382? Ja też bym to zrobiła i piszesz, że to działa?(Google translator)
Why doesn't anyone address the gear oil in the DSG? I get not doing the ATF in the diff... but gear oil in the trans and diff at the same time seems like a no brainer?!?
I can't find anything showing this although I presume it's as simple as my 6MT.
Got any hints?
Cheers, KS
Do you have to drive around for 1-3 hours IN A ROW after doing this adaptation? Or does it just finish when it finishes...
(and to 2nd EJ's comment, will this effect or change a TCU tune in any way? Mine is APR Stage Final)
Thank you great video.. a little more in depth than Deutsche Auto's
You do not have to drive for 1-3 hours straight after the adaptation, it just takes from 1 to 2 hours to fully adapt. This can be done over many drives as long as you are between the even and odd gears to set both clutches.
This will not mess up a TCU tune. My S6 has an APR TCU tune which controls a lot of other values and target points such as line pressure, clamp load, rev limiter, etc.
@@ecstuning Awesome thank you so much. You guys have best quality DIY videos for this platform that I have seen. S6 is a Beast!
@@ecstuning If anything it will help the tune
Hello please why did you do the clutch adaptation?
So it learns new engagement points with the new fluid.
Good my man
Can you do this adaptation on Audi 2017 Q7 3.0T supercharged , With ZF 8HP
does anyone know if the S6 C7.5 has a front and center diff as well? i can’t find anything on servicing those
Grazie per il video non o visto uno fino ora fare il tuo procedimento Top a mia machina aveva 30 m k quando o fatto il chambio olio in officina faceva dei strappi lo fato io ora seguendo te un altra macchina Grazie.
The dap diy says to do it another way. Who to trust?
Can I do this for my 2007 Audi s6?
So I have a 2021 audi s4, does this apply to the newer ones too?
Hi are you guys able to run through what to do when you get "error request out of range" or "aborted for safety reasons", I can't seem to get past "Erase counter for start and stop processes" it just gives me the "error request out of range". Trans is at 50C, ign on, in park and parking brake on....
figured out what was wrong? ran into same issues as you…
We are researching the issue for you. Were you able to find a solution?
@@ecstuning Na mate not yet, still can't get past "error request out of range" I think its the erase counter for start stop process
@@shaneil7901 I have same problem with steps 1 and 2. Tested ATF temp 0-60 dec. No luck
@@ecstuning Happening to a few of us, any updates by chance?
Would I be able to do the adaption process with obd eleven pro or is vcds required
Obd11 will work
Do you have to do the VCDS part? Can you do this change without it?
You need it yes, or obd11 should work too (I think)
Will the adaptation mess with a tran tune?
Nope.
hey guys, I have to swap my sport differential out for a new sport differential. Do you have any leads on how to adapt the new sport diff to the to the car? it's 2013 b8.5 s5 stronic. It was throwing the implausible signal code and the electric motor and pump had gone out. I can't find much information online about the adaptation process for the sensors etc.
transmission working absolutely fine just I’m getting error repeatedly Gearbox is overheating change driving style .. and fault code is P1765 hydraulic sensor 2 adaptation limit reached ( g194).. the local mechanic recommend to change valve body ..
For me, about 5.5L came in. Is that normal. Instructions as in the video performed.
Same, did you find a solution? Thx
can i used obdeleven to do Clutch Adaptation?
After the clutch adaptation I feel like it’s not quite as smooth as before
same sh*t, especially at 1st gear
Same for DQ500?
What if I do all these and the reverse still doesn’t work
If you filled it first then drained it then I don’t think there would be any fluid in the trans. Probably wouldn’t work too well with no fluid
Mine is failing on clutch engagment point adaptation part. When doing the engagement point caibration it finishes the process for clutch 1 but when it tries to set engagement point for clutch 2 it aborts due to safety reasons. Bit stuck what to do here. Any ideas why it might be failing just on clutch 2? When looking at the pressure values while its trying to calibrate, for clutch 1 the pressure starts from about 2 bar and gradually goes to to about 2.8 bar then completes, then when it moved to calibrate clutch 2 it just sits a about 2 bar for a few seconds and then you get the aborted for safety reasons message :(
What did you end up doing? Mine is saying the same thing :/
@@alinbaraiac1543 I cant remember exactly what I did now, but it did work eventually. I wrote down exact instructions on what I did for my 2013 3.0 TDI so maybe its of some use :) I think some of my steps are unnecessary, but i as just annoyed faffing around with this so one way or another, the steps i followed below seemed to work >>
1. Drive car from cold until transmission fluid reaches 41 degrees.
2. Park and engine off
3. Go to auto trans, basic settings with VCDS and ‘erase counter for start and stop process’. When it says not running click stop.
4. Start the car in park, take off hand brake and put foot on brake
5. Do ‘clutch valve calibration’ then when it says finished correctly hit ‘done and go back’ (dont click ‘stop’, not sure if this is required but its what a guy did on a youtube video)
6. Go back to basic settings again and do ‘distance sensor calibration’ then click stop, then ‘done and go back’
7. Stop engine, then turn on ignition only
8. Reconned to VCDS, go back to basic settings, bring up the live view of clutch pressures so you can see whats happening and then do ‘restart point adaptation to factory setting’ then click ‘stop’ when its finished’
9. Start the engine
10. Do ‘clutch engagepoint point adaptation’ then click ‘stop’ then ‘done and go back’ then exit everything in VCDS and turn off engine, take key out, wait 10+ seconds
11. Start engine, go back to auto trans then ‘advanced measuring blocks’ display the info for clutch adaptation status and also clutch 1 and 2 pressure values. Note: When i started driving for a bit, these values kept switching to N/A as VCDS lost connection. Not sure why, but had to keep resetting VCDS and displaying these, after doing that about 3 or 4 times they would keep displaying property.
12. Drive in all gears for 3 seconds including reverse (not sure if this is necessary, but did it anyway to make sure it was driving OK after the above calibrations)
13. Drive car on level ground (long dual carriageway ideal) at 60mph in 6th gear until ‘break in’ complete Then at 50mph in 5th gear until ‘break’ in complete. While doing these, keep eye on live mpg usage, so you can keep that as static as possible. In my 3.0 TDI it was about 49mpg at those speeds in each gear when the calibration steps worked.
Wow. Awesome. I really appreciate the reply!! I’ll try these out as soon as I can.
@@alinbaraiac1543 No worries, let me know how you get on :-) I curious to know if what I did made a difference or if it was just a case of me retrying it over and over until it eventually worked lol
Hey what dsg transmission comes in the B8.5 (2013-2017) RS5? I know it’s a 7 speed.
Same one as this video, DL501
2 HORAS CONDUCIENDO??
Hi nice video. Can you help me with my problem please. My transmission always show me P287B00. I did all according instruction (Rosstech forum)
Thank you
would this work on a A5 with the s-tronic 7 speed?
A5's never came with an S-tronic gearbox (in the states, but they may have elsewhere in the world). If it truly is an S-tronic gear box, it is indeed a DSG and this adapation will work. With that being said, most A5's came with a tip Tronic gearbox which is not a DSG.
@@ecstuning A5s and A4s came with 7 speed DSG in Australia, same DL501 i believe. We don't like our tiptronics or multitronics here
I did my DSG service on my B8.5 S4. Didn't do any kind of clutch adaptation routine, but it's been fine. I haven't looked to see if that's even possible with an OBDEleven (Don't have VCDS). Anybody know? Still need to do the sport diff.
Yes it is possible with OBD eleven, I've done it myself to my S7
It works however some of the names are slightly different
@@curtdragon can you tell what is "reset start point adaptation" in obdeleven? Other steps looks the same naming. Thanks.
It don't take much to do an oil change on an old Audi does it.
It blows my mind these cars are so complicated and expensive to maintain; and for what? a little better shifting?
Nobody does all this steps unfortunately 😔
No electric tools 😢sheeeesh I know these jobs take long
Does this also apply to the Q5?
i .. I have Audi 7 2013.. transmission working absolutely fine just I’m getting error Gear is overheating change driving style .. and fault code is P1765 hydraulic sensor 2 adaptation limit reached .. pls advise what could be the actual problem??