Flaring and Bending Steel and Stainless Steel Tubing
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2021
- Before you buy, take a look at three bending tools, two flaring tools and a really good trick for flaring stainless steel without splitting it open.
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Imperial Triple Head Tube Bender amzn.to/2ZLLYre
RIDGID Flair Tool amzn.to/3NKiCU0
RIDGID Close Quarters Tubing Cutter amzn.to/2NVBHWu
RIDGID Tubing Cutter amzn.to/2ZMlXYA
Mophorn Pipe Tube Bender amzn.to/3kgrpMS
TGR Flaring Tool with 45 and 37 degree amzn.to/2ZIBwAP
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[ Amazon Smile support for The Sea Chest Foundation ]
smile.amazon.com/ch/83-2588177
Imperial Triple Head Tube Bender amzn.to/2ZLLYre
RIDGID Close Quarters Tubing Cutter amzn.to/2NVBHWu
RIDGID Tubing Cutter amzn.to/2ZMlXYA
Mophorn Pipe Tube Bender amzn.to/3kgrpMS
TGR Flaring Tool with 45 and 37 degree amzn.to/2ZIBwAP
Those tubing cutters come with a extra blade to change out.
nice to see flares back in fashion...
Look in the knob of your new tubing cutting, there should be a spare cutting wheel 👍
Hi Doug , I found that if you put a little lube on the tip of the rigid flaring tool you get better flares. And your tube should be even with the top of the flare clamp. Have fun.
Yeah, I forgot to mention that.
Most of those bigger tube cutter have a extra cutting wheel under the screw of the handle
Volunteers give you help and you help everyone watching. You are a great man!
Thx Doug for promoting the Rigid flaring tool. I've had mine for 30 years now. i use it at least twice a week at my job. Buy American when you can,
tools like the rigid rol-flare will last a lifetime. I live south of you on Arkansas river between lock 15 and 16 .Will be watching for Seeker on her transition to the ole miss.
Spent my entire adult life on the river. I promise you will not be disappointed on the trip to the gulf Thanks for being our Okie ambassador for all
things Nautical.
Okla. is often overlooked for it's navigational waterways, But we are a major power in transportation for overseas markets on our river systems.
Most people think Oklahoma is still a dusty corn field.
Good luck and well wishes to Seeker and her crew.
I was struggling to get a flare on SS tubing and watched your video. Heat was the answer. Thank you for that tip. Perfect flare first time.
Glad it helped!
Great job, Bending tubing. One of the few places craftsmen get to practice at at work. Some of the stiff or there in industrial settings is nothing short of art. A real testament to someone silently putting their touch of art in the workplace. Some of it nice enough I've taken photos for examples.
Those tubing cutters have replaceable blades on it.
Not all of them
Just in case someone else hasn't mentioned it already... Look at the bottom of the handle of your Ridged tubing cutters (they all should be like this) there is a spare cutting blade. The blade is a consumable. You can also buy the blades separately and they are much much cheaper then a whole new cutter. I hope this saves you some money in the future! Keep up the awesome content!!! I really look forward to the launch!!!
I have the Imperial Eastman 400F Rol-Air flaring tool. Expensive but by far the best I've ever used. It uses internal rollers to form the flare. When the amazon cheap ones fail (and I have several) This one works like a dream.
thats the sort of things that when needed become invaluble. there are always tools you dont relise you need, these are them. critical to have these on a boat. thanks doug....
as always an excellent video with a whole swag of great workshop tips
Done many flares using the Rigid tool. It is great but takes some effort to turn. Replacement wheels are great to have on hand so when your tube cutter stops cutting you just put in a fresh sharp wheel.
I built a little cub cadet backhoe loader and used NPT fittings at first. After looking at the mess of hoses, I decided to move to JIC and steel tubing. The 37 degree flaring tool I found (that also works on Stainless) is the imperial 402-FA - reamer and flaring tool. The neat thng about this one is that the flaring park of the tool (cone) has three rollers that do the flaring work. It was an expensive little tool but it would go up to 5/8" tubing.
Man I wish I lived closer.
I'd be begging for a job. LOVE this kind of work!
Excellent for a guy who had no idea what flaring was. Thank you!
man i love learning, and yet again i learned something watching your channel
Just looking at your older video's you really do make a good teacher.
The off center flaring tool is great. I have one (Yellow Jacket) I use for air conditioning flares, where you're talking about constant high pressure and sealing molecules from leaking. In A/C work some of us also use a special sealant on the flare whose name I don't recall--sorry.
Hi Doug, if you like your rigid flaring tool, check out the Rothenberg one. It has a guide plate so you can only puthe pipe in so far, plus you can use a cordless drill to tighten.
I've used hydraulic fittings in the past that allowed enough margin to cut the tubes with an angle grinder and did not require flaring the ends, the connections held up to ~700 bar (10.000 psi). It uses a deformable collar similar to what is used for normal copper tubing.
Edit: commented too early.
I like my Imperial tube flaring tool better then the Ridgid , but the Imperial is quite expensive. A tapered reamer works great for cleaning up tube after cutting. Packing tubing with sand and capping helps a lot when making tight bends.
ridged makes top notch plumbing tools
To get a shorter leg on flare side you can slide a snug drill bit inside of tube and use that to pull against with in bender.... Hope that makes sense
I have one like the big one your using , i mounted to a piece of 2" box tubing and then use a receiver hitch to mount it . that way you can set it up anywhere.
Thanks for the video. I got a cracked flare one out of three, so heated the rest...no more cracks. i'll just have to take my chances with rust. My 377 Ridgid did not come close to being able to flare the 1/2" super thick, 316 stainless tubing, so I used grease and an open end wrench on the nut under the handle. It worked. Hopefully there won't be leaks. Oh. be sure and use never-seize on the stainless flare threads, or they will gald!
Great info , thank you
Glad it was helpful
2:44 your bringing back memories lol Did the same to mine. Grinder and paint
I use the first flaring tool you started with. If I understand the written directions correctly, on a 37-degree flare, you start with the 0 option, then go directly to the #2 option and skip step #1. It's worked for me so far and building 3/8" stainless fuel lines on a hot rod.
Ridgid makes a great flaring tool.. I've been using the same one for over 10 years for 3,770 psi plus.
If you are not heating the end for flaring, a bit of grease on the flare die helps. Ridgid does sell replacement cutter wheels for their tubing cutter.. Get yourself a couple.
Offset flaring tools are a great invention.
Is Andy why we can''t have nice things? But Andy is nice to help out so much!
Mate, Love your style and way of doing things. The stainless pipe will rust where it has been heated if you polish the pipe it brings the chromium carbides back to the surface of the metal witch gives is its weather resistance. Cheers mate from downunder.
Fascinating
Or if you passivate with citric or nitric acid.
A simpler version (without the clutch) of the last tool was what i've used back in the 70's for flaring brake pipes on one of my cars.
Simple and effective.
Not so good on stainless steel tube. You need the wobble point to get a good flare in stainless.
@@davidapp3730 Makes sense, i just find it amusing that the old "style" seemed to be better than the fancy one, and more compact ;)
@@sparkyprojects Not sure how new the fancy one is. I was using the one with the clutch about 20 years ago.
That was awesome.
This creates very good seal.
Thanks mate. I've got an excavator waiting for me to put new hard hydraulic lines into it and now I'm motivated to do it.
Have fun
total respect!
In mining for a quick fix we would make a hose if possible. Good video on tubing!
Step drill also works wonders for deburring
Nice video. I now understand why stainless flares are a lot more involved than making ones for copper tube - thanks
Perfectly flaired fittings for the boat, however I work at a nuclear power plant (we only use stainless tubing) and this video gave me chills like I was in trouble 😂
Look at Aeroquip FF9605-08 it's a flareless Ferrule that works with standard JIC fittings.
3:31 You know you can change the blades in tubing cutters right? I went through dozens of the blades as a young man, making aglets for the tail end of rope horse halters my dad tied and sold. We'd sit in the living room, he'd tie halters, and I'd cut copper tubing into 1 inch lengths to crimp onto the rope, cut hundreds of joints of copper pipe into pieces with a hand cutter while watching tv. Every trip to town included more cutter blades and more pipe.
It must be very rewarding to see your dreamchild finally nearing completion. It's been a long road, but just the start of your new life as captain of your own research vessel. Don't remember a video relating the story of how or when the germ of this idea was planted. Did Jacques Cousteau have anything to do with it?
That Ridgid Flare tool is great - little touch of oil on the inside of the tube tip that's getting flared helps reduce splitting (careful not to get any on the clutch - it may start slipping too easily) its a real workout on your wrists when you have a bunch to flare (especially when you have forgotten the nut before flaring,,,, requisite swearing, huffing, deep breaths and starting over)
Interesting you went for SS tubing given the added cost and headaches of splitting (it also a bit weaker so has slightly lower pressure rating) cost of fittings is like 3x the price - why not use MS and paint - I get that its an extra few steps and a bit of a headache but MS fittings are way more available.
What wall thickness tubing are you bending and flaring? I need to bend and flare some 1/2 and 5/8 stainless tubing in at least .049" wall thickness although thicker would be nicer.
The wheels on the tubing cutter can be replaced and it's good as new
I have the eastwood version of this press tool and bending tool I think that kit is a little better for the same money
How long does it take to get the red glow? And do i need to flare the pipe right after heating or is it ok to wait for a week before processing the flare?
BTW, using a tub cutter work hardens the end. That's why it will crack. Use a hacksaw to cut.
Interesting video. if that bender that broke was a HUSKY... it should be under warranty ... keep up the great work!!
Woa! What kind of welder is that? Thanks for the video.
Aluminum MIG Spool Gun ua-cam.com/video/VChbe3a2i1M/v-deo.html
Worked in the commercial dive industry and did the grunt work fabricating saturation dive systems. 99% of the plumbing was stainless tubing, we didn't flare any of it. First we were working with O2 and helium, all joints were silver soldered with O-rings for sealing, Helium is a pain to keep from leaking. When we did hydraulics we did flare the hard lines, most of the time, just used an old school flaring tool, the manual kind. For all but a couple of large Dia. lines we used a hand bender. Built up upper body better than going to the gym. LOL
On the tubing cutter, make sure you get the cutter wheel for stainless, but get a couple as they are a bit prone to breaking.
Swagelok is another way to go but pricy. It is quick though...cut to length, deburr, put the nut on then the ferrule, screw on to the swage block or fitting and turn one and a quarter turn......done.
Glowing the pipe has caused some issues for me. It changes the properties of the pipe in this spot. The metal tends to get somewhat softer. The parts that have seen red-glow levels of heat are much more prone to corrosion to. You can see the latter in exhaust piping in rugged environments.
Heated stainless is still better than plain steel is. So better than what was there.
I was thinking the same, I'm not sure how much that changes the metals properties, but depending on why type of system you are using it for (possibly low pressure) it may not matter. For a high pressure hydraulic line or something, I would do some double checking before I heated the bad Larry up!
Stainless steel contains iron, I believe the only part that is stainless is the surface? I read that if it is scratched it can expose those iron atoms to oxygen and rust just like steel does. There is a process, I believe called passivation (I apologize if I didn't spell it correctly) from what I read, this essentially dissolves any iron atoms on the surface layers of the stainless, leaving whatever is in there ( chromium??nickel???) To act as a barrier. So if you cut, scratch, grind, or heat/weld stainless steel. The new material now in the surface must be passivated to maintain the corrosion resistance?
I may not have that correct, but there is something related to all that that can bring your corrosion resistance back. I am buying a kit for my tig weld that supposedly does a great job at exactly that? So I'll find out soon enough!
There are deburring tools. They are pretty cheap, but in a pinch, there are other tools that will work, like the drill used here. On mild steel you can get away with just a good flat blade screwdriver. I wouldn't try it on stainless though.
On the two Flaring tools which one would you suggest?
If you are just going to do a few tubes I'd get the Ridgid, otherwise the TGR Flaring Tool because it is much faster. amzn.to/2ZIBwAP
Can you use copper instead of metal tubing? I know is an stupid question. But I wonder how much pressure metal holds against copper. Thanks
I don't see why not, but it's too soft for many hydraulic applications.
Will it work on .049 wall stainless steel?
I don't know. My guess is yes, but I think it all depends on the type and quality of the stainless.
Sometimes a little soap in the flaring tool helps.
they sell new cutting wheels for those pipe cutters
Your clutch pin is designed to make your flare square and not on the angle of the thread pitch.
There is not a link to the ridgid ratcheting flare tool. I would love to get that one but cant find it online in amazon. Any help ?
That was a long time ago, but I think it's this one: amzn.to/3NKiCU0
@@SVSeeker thanks for that.
Btw, when do you think the SV Seeker will be done?
ua-cam.com/video/MxzWw9dbBL8/v-deo.html
Its a boat. It will never be done. It will just be in the water.
Ever wanted to learn how to do something different? Watch all of Dougs videos, doesn’t matter which way you go about it get it done.
Cheers Doug.
What do you call a man with a spade?
What do you call a man without a spade?
Anti sieze is an excellent lube for flaring steel tubing
Makes sense
Keep the old tubing cutter, replacement blades are $5 for 3
Too look at that crane you wouldn’t think it would need a complete overhaul
Дедушка, когда поплывем уже?
Roll the roller into the cut,not the cutting wheel leading will go off line ,, carry-on
Why would you throw the entire cutter away when the cutting wheels are replaceable and there is a spare one in the tightening handle? Just asking cause the good ones aren’t cheap. And when using stainless steel that can handle the hydraulic type pressures the wall thickness is too thick for flaring. Need to use Swagelok style fittings. Plus no need for all those speciality tools.
Paused the video to look at it, and while I can't say 100%, I think that was a piece of junk took where the blade wasn't replacable.
FYI "Op" stands for "Operation", not "Option"
You do know you can change the cutting blade on tubing cutters don't you?
Yes but it does nothing for the shafts. Feel free to go through my garbage. :)
@@SVSeeker I don't care to go through your trash but welding a broken tubing bender and trashing a easily fixed cutter with a new blade and blade shaft when both tools are comparable in price just dosnt make sense but I guess it doesn't have too when cost has no limits.
@@joetri1970 It's not a dull blade. It was a bent shaft. And you really might want to think about adding something more in your life.
@@SVSeeker your right I do need to more better things in my life and not watch crappy youtube videos .
@@joetri1970 An excellent start. Turn off the screens, get out in your shop and do something productive. You'll be a new man.
I thought heating up stainless steel too much will cause it to lose its rust resistant properties?
Usually doing almost anything aside from polishing it will cause a variety of problems later. Any cutting, welding, bending, attaching items, drilling, coating etc
You can pick up new cutting wheels extremely cheap.
what doesn’t bend , breaks 🤔 wait strike that , reverse it 😆
I love all my high quality shittsburg tools from HFT
The blades on those tubing cutters are replaceable
Where's the stuff we made today?
You apparently have not been making enough. Turn off the screen and get out in your shop.
Shit, if you put a brace on me.. I might be stronger than TP.
Or.. You know.. just REPLACE the cutting wheel?
op 0 is operation 0 not option, just saying
Come on Doug help a guy out. 10 seconds in and your telling me about your big a** boat. I love watching you vids w my 5 year old son, but he has a knack for repeating only what he shouldn't be saying.
Don't blame me. I'm not playing the role of censor. If "ass" is the worst he has hear you better quit now.
@@SVSeeker just saying I enjoy watching with my kids. I respect your right to say what you want. Just mentioning your younger audience
@@edwardandamy Bull Shit! You don't tell someone what they should not say and then claim to respect their right to say want they want.
@@SVSeeker my words were help me out here. Not do as I say.
@@edwardandamy Splitting Hairs? Fuck off. : )