All bends to your left, center to center, also the hand tight and 1/4 turn is only with swagelok fittings, parker fittings as the ones shown need a little more, make sure you use a square on your tube after bending, it has a spring back, so going a 1/16th over your degree will give you the true 90, best practice too is to mark your tube around at the top of the fitting with your tube in to make sure you’re not short ferruling it
That’s not true. The 1-1/4 turn is not a Swagelok specific function. It is controlled by ASME B1.1 2A and 2B Unified Screw Threads control the travel distance between the bottom of the nut and top of the body hex. After 1-1/4 turns it is consistently 1/16”. The mathematical theory under the standard is 1.25 (pull up theory) divided by unified screw thread of 20TPI (threads per inch) = 0.0625 or 1/16”. Your gap gauge is checking for 1/16” clearance. If it goes, you aren’t tight enough. It is a NO GO gauge that is ASME controlled, which governs tube fittings of all manufacturers.
I would use thread sealant not thread locker. Most of your method is ok, I would never clamp or use pliers to hold the tube. It is one and a quarter turns for 1/4 to 1" for proper engagement of the tube fitting (I would have to look up over 1") and only 3/4 turns for 1/16, 1/8, and 316" tube. I have always tightened the nineties to the desired location and then tubed, you guys must find leaks there often. Oh, and use a back up wrench! There is a mark on the bender in front of the "latch" that indicates the required minimum straight tube required for proper fitting engagement. Get a proper deburring tool
Cuando se efectúa el doblez a 90°, la distancia del doblez se mide de izquierda a derecha y la marca para iniciar el doblez se coloca en 90, cuando la medida del doblez a 90° se requiere del extremo derecho del tubing hacia la izquierda, la marca de doblez se coloca en R y se logra la medida correcta en Reversa. Siempre colocar el maneral 0 con 0 y correr la marca del tubing a la marca 90 o R según se requiera.
We use locking wrench style vice grips to hold our tubing while cutting. You also need to make sure your stinger is level when getting your measurement. Your tubing is crooked because you didn't level your stinger.
You got vicegrips made for tubing sizes? I had a pair, impossible to accidently damage tubing. Lost em, can't find new pair to save my life. Bouta make my own
Also at 9:28 he aligns the tube with the latch before he makes the bend. That will egg the tube. Hi needs to align the end of the tube with the minimum bend line on the bender and then bend. If it's too long hr could have cut it shorter with the tubing cutters. Theres two major errors at least.
Holding tube in a vice - fail Not marking insertion depth of tube into fitting -fail Marking the tube instead of the fitting to reference swage - fail Not checking the ferrule orientation before swaging - fail But the loctite takes the cake !
Im so confused with the line he made in that tube I thought you have to line that with the L line. Looks like he was short but after bending it, it looks like he really hits 90 degrees. Im so confused hahaha
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All bends to your left, center to center, also the hand tight and 1/4 turn is only with swagelok fittings, parker fittings as the ones shown need a little more, make sure you use a square on your tube after bending, it has a spring back, so going a 1/16th over your degree will give you the true 90, best practice too is to mark your tube around at the top of the fitting with your tube in to make sure you’re not short ferruling it
That’s not true. The 1-1/4 turn is not a Swagelok specific function. It is controlled by ASME B1.1 2A and 2B Unified Screw Threads control the travel distance between the bottom of the nut and top of the body hex. After 1-1/4 turns it is consistently 1/16”.
The mathematical theory under the standard is 1.25 (pull up theory) divided by unified screw thread of 20TPI (threads per inch) = 0.0625 or 1/16”.
Your gap gauge is checking for 1/16” clearance. If it goes, you aren’t tight enough. It is a NO GO gauge that is ASME controlled, which governs tube fittings of all manufacturers.
As a beginner instrument technician, that was helpful.
Thanks in advance.
Good and wonderful work, thank you professor
I would use thread sealant not thread locker. Most of your method is ok, I would never clamp or use pliers to hold the tube. It is one and a quarter turns for 1/4 to 1" for proper engagement of the tube fitting (I would have to look up over 1") and only 3/4 turns for 1/16, 1/8, and 316" tube. I have always tightened the nineties to the desired location and then tubed, you guys must find leaks there often.
Oh, and use a back up wrench!
There is a mark on the bender in front of the "latch" that indicates the required minimum straight tube required for proper fitting engagement.
Get a proper deburring tool
Hi, great and informative video on tube bending. Could you tell me what is offset calculation multiplier for 15°, 60° and 75° angle?
Use trig, don't try to memorize constants.
thank you for your reply. what is trig?@@henryjantz
Little late, but it’s 3.86, 1.15, and 1.033.
Well didactics, thank you
يجب عليك أن تقم ب تنقيص الئشاره الي 2سنتيم كي تاخذ اريحيه في البنده
Good job
THANK U SIR ❤
Tube ka size kya hota hai
Tengo una duda la letra R' que me indica ??
Cuando se efectúa el doblez a 90°, la distancia del doblez se mide de izquierda a derecha y la marca para iniciar el doblez se coloca en 90, cuando la medida del doblez a 90° se requiere del extremo derecho del tubing hacia la izquierda, la marca de doblez se coloca en R y se logra la medida correcta en Reversa. Siempre colocar el maneral 0 con 0 y correr la marca del tubing a la marca 90 o R según se requiera.
Tube size
We use locking wrench style vice grips to hold our tubing while cutting. You also need to make sure your stinger is level when getting your measurement. Your tubing is crooked because you didn't level your stinger.
You got vicegrips made for tubing sizes? I had a pair, impossible to accidently damage tubing. Lost em, can't find new pair to save my life. Bouta make my own
THREADLOCKER IS NOT THREAD SEALANT.
There is so much incorrect information in this video. Just goes to show not to believe everything you see on youtube.
Hahahahahahahaha I agree 110% . bout to say the same thing.
An example or two please?
Loctite is thread locker not thread sealer. Should be using SWAK sealant or PST.
Also at 9:28 he aligns the tube with the latch before he makes the bend. That will egg the tube. Hi needs to align the end of the tube with the minimum bend line on the bender and then bend. If it's too long hr could have cut it shorter with the tubing cutters. Theres two major errors at least.
Holding tube in a vice - fail
Not marking insertion depth of
tube into fitting -fail
Marking the tube instead of the fitting to reference swage - fail
Not checking the ferrule orientation before swaging - fail
But the loctite takes the cake !
Great!
Im so confused with the line he made in that tube I thought you have to line that with the L line. Looks like he was short but after bending it, it looks like he really hits 90 degrees. Im so confused hahaha
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