How I fitted a stainless steel chimney liner for a wood burning stove | Jotul F400 ECO
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- This is an Eco design 2022 Jotul F400 Eco stove.
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my sister got a stove installed in her fireplace in place of her gas fire which was too expensive to run amazing job how you done everything chimney and all you are the best
Owen, so the supplementary air supply from your cellar to prevent drafts in the room, good Victorian technology, cheers
I was wondering what the hole in the tiles was for, thanks!
Wrangler star has tips how to keep clean the glass etc but great video
Wow 👏
I thought you'd have to insulate the outside of the flexible flue pipe with vermiculite granules in the chimney. Or, at least wrap the flexible flue pipe with an insulation blanket 🙂
Why do you think that?
@@bootsowen Hello. Thanks for nice video 🙂.
In 2014 an 8 kW Aarada Stovax i600 multi fuel stove was installed by a HETAS certified installer at my parent's house under my supervision.
He surrounded the 904L stainless steel flexible flue pipe with vermiculite granules over its entire length of the inside of the chimney in the 2-story house.
I'm guessing that (1) the insulation around the pipe increased the temperature 🌡️ of the flue gas and, thereby, increased the draft pressure up the chimney. The driving force for the draft would be the temperature difference between the outside air and the hot flue gas. Also, (2) I'd say there's a safety element involved too. The flexible stainless steel flue pipe, during normal operation, will reach temperatures of about ~300 - 400 degrees Celsius. At that temperature any tar/creosote residue on the inside walls of the chimney in contact with the hot flexible flue pipe will begin to melt onto the pipe and eventually ignite 🙂. Plus (3), that flexible stainless steel flue pipe will move around the inside the chimney as it heats up and cools down as the steel expands and contracts. In principle, in my very humble opinion, a pipe like that should be secured in some way against inside the chimney, and the vermiculite grains serve to hold the pipe in position throughout the length of the chimney.
I'm not in the least a stove installation professional, so don't take my word for any of it, though 👍
A chimney liner goes into an existing chimney. The existing chimney should be sound. You do a survey to check. Depending on the liner you need to support it every so often. Mine was within the spec with no intermediate support. Vermiculite is an insulator. But so is air. I see a benefit maybe in backfilling with vermiculite and cement where it will set up as a lightweight permanent concrete. But loose vermiculite seems somewhat perverse. I guess you pay more and feel safer. You really shouldn’t have tar inside your chimney. If you are getting proper combustion from really dry firewood there shouldn’t be any and I have never had tar. You get tar from burning wet pine and smoking it. Bad idea. Most of all your just wasting energy driving the moisture off.
I've been wanting to fit a long burner for a couple of years now but a bit put off with the work involved. Now I hear they have to be professionally installed for legal reasons? My brother worked for a firm fitting them so we know what to do.
Did you get the burner cheap, as I'd be looking into one that uses a pipe-in-pipe intake and exhaust setup. Although the suspended floor beneath mine is vented to outside so could punch a hole down.
My understanding is that you need a HETAS person to fit a stove in England or diy and get building control to inspect it. Building control are easy to deal with. some modern stoves have a heat shield beneath, so can sit on a relatively thin non combustible surface. Rules and control in Ireland is more lax, so it can be easier.
This one was in the 2-3£k range, and accessories adds another grand or so.
Haven't heard of the pipe in pipe thing, it would be good to preheat the combustion air, but it would also mean that the products of combustion would be more likely to condense in the flue.
Where did you buy the Jotul F400 Eco, and how much did it cost, may I ask? 🙂
It was a while ago so it’s somewhat irrelevant now.
Great job, are you going to make some paper logs / bricks for it.
I used to have a little industry making those things as a teenager. Waste of time. No caloric value. No heat when they burn. I gave up on them a long time ago. In the end I used 1/2 a newspaper log to start the fire. Not worth the effort.
Good job 👏 👍
Is there any way to empty the full ash pan without dust going everywhere in the room?
I mean, do you have to walk through the house with the ash pan full of ash dust so it can be disposed of outside? Or is there a way to empty the ash pan into a bucket inside of the house in such a way that ash dust doesn't fly everywhere?
I'd love to know, if anyone has any advice on that 🙂
I’m not sure I share your issue. The ash pan holds ash. And you walk it outside. If you struggle with this you could put a damp tea towel over it but it seems unnecessary to me.
@@bootsowen thanks for replying 🙂. I found with my parent's stove it was a pain in the ars* emptying the ash pan daily. Somehow, the ash dust just gets about in the room in which the stove is installed as the tray full of ash is removed from the stove and you walk through the house with the ash pan full of ash to dispose of it outside. The ash is sort of powder-y and fine, and any draft whatsoever will disturb and set up into the air the ash from the ash pan as you walk your way through the house with it. Maybe 🤔 it's just me that is peeved about it...
I have a suspicion: behind that theatrically piratical beard and faux accent is an actor who used to be in EastEnders. I'm not 100%, but I'm at 83%. What say you?
Dot cotton?
Grant