Mate, it’s highly kind of you to provide the link to all of your parts and also the build techniques. Because of you, I have successfully built about a dozen watches now using the NH 35 movements.
sweet video, BTW, where did you get that thin movement holder ? All of the NH holders I have won't fit the bases for my hand press tool like yours. Thanks in advance
Awesome build. I’ve made a handful of a very similar design for some friends that I work with. Question on the NH35 date wheel removal. If I’m building a no date watch, I typically go with an NH38 (as you said in the video). When you remove the date wheel and white gear as you showed, does it remove the first click when pulling out the crown? Or is there still a “ghost” position? I really enjoy your builds. Great editing. Solid voice over. All around good stuff.
Thanks mate, really appreciate it! Once you remove the date wheel and gear there is no clicking or ghost position where there normally would be when changing the date :)
I’m new to watchmaking but when you pull out the crown, the positions are controlled by the setting lever. So in my mind when you pull out the crown you would still have two positions to get to the time setting mode. By just removing the date wheel doesn’t eliminate the middle position which would be the date setting position. So there will still be three positions when pulling out the crown, the winding position, the date setting position, and the time setting position. Unless I am totally wrong…😮 Otherwise, nice build and nice watch.
@@fsobothat was kind of my thought as well… I’m not nearly as familiar with the inner workings, but I’m curious if the removal of the little while gear somehow impacts the date setting vs time setting position. Either way. I’m going to give it a go and see what happens.
@@TonyGenerali did u find out if there was a ghost position (as the original commenter mentioned i thought to remove the ghost position an nh38 jumper would need to be swapped in?) (similar to the eta 2824 using the 2801 jumper to solve the same problem)
How do you know if you cut the stem too short or too long? This is my second mod and both seem to be cut right (crown seats well into the case, and moves without issue) but the second had will stop moving, the. I tap the crystal and it starts moving again. I’ve read that the second hand might be touching the inside of the crystal and to shave down the inner ring of the caseback. Any advice?
If the crown stem is too long the crown wont screw all the way down to the case, if its too short you wont be able to properly engage each position with the crown. Sounds like your second hand may be bent to high up and touching the crystal. No need to shave anything down as that will make the movement loose in the case, just bend the second hand down a little and test
A really impressive build it looks great, I've just finished my third build a Flieger and I'm already looking forward to the fourth, I'd love to see you build a day/date something like the Hamilton H64455523
Removing the date wheel was so nerve racking lol. Lost 2 of the screws in the process but managed to make it work with just two. Thanks for the video
Haha atleast you were still able to make it work with just 2 screws😅
Good show mate!
Thanks mate :)
Really looks cool. Maybe I’ll try it myself. Thanks for your help.
You're welcome🙂
Mate, it’s highly kind of you to provide the link to all of your parts and also the build techniques. Because of you, I have successfully built about a dozen watches now using the NH 35 movements.
Thats awesome to hear. My pleasure mate🙂
this looks so good
Thank🙌
Could you also share the link where we can get custom dial decals made?
sweet video, BTW, where did you get that thin movement holder ? All of the NH holders I have won't fit the bases for my hand press tool like yours. Thanks in advance
Thanks! The movement holder is from lucius atelier🙂
Do you regulate your watches that you sell at all, or is it sort of “what the factory sends out is what you get” type of deal?
cool watch, can the bracelet accomodate tiny wrists say like 6"-6.25"?
Cheers! Yeah, if you remove all the links and adjust the clasp it should work fine!
😂 spent holidays pulling city slickers with their ‘4x4’s’ outta the sand.
😂😂 This city slicker happened to be my brother lol
@ 😂🤣😂🤣 show him the post..!
Awesome build. I’ve made a handful of a very similar design for some friends that I work with.
Question on the NH35 date wheel removal. If I’m building a no date watch, I typically go with an NH38 (as you said in the video). When you remove the date wheel and white gear as you showed, does it remove the first click when pulling out the crown? Or is there still a “ghost” position?
I really enjoy your builds. Great editing. Solid voice over. All around good stuff.
Thanks mate, really appreciate it! Once you remove the date wheel and gear there is no clicking or ghost position where there normally would be when changing the date :)
I’m new to watchmaking but when you pull out the crown, the positions are controlled by the setting lever. So in my mind when you pull out the crown you would still have two positions to get to the time setting mode. By just removing the date wheel doesn’t eliminate the middle position which would be the date setting position. So there will still be three positions when pulling out the crown, the winding position, the date setting position, and the time setting position. Unless I am totally wrong…😮
Otherwise, nice build and nice watch.
@@jbwatchmodsgood to know. I will definitely try that out on my next no date build. Cheers.
@@fsobothat was kind of my thought as well… I’m not nearly as familiar with the inner workings, but I’m curious if the removal of the little while gear somehow impacts the date setting vs time setting position.
Either way. I’m going to give it a go and see what happens.
@@TonyGenerali did u find out if there was a ghost position
(as the original commenter mentioned i thought to remove the ghost position an nh38 jumper would need to be swapped in?)
(similar to the eta 2824 using the 2801 jumper to solve the same problem)
How do you know if you cut the stem too short or too long? This is my second mod and both seem to be cut right (crown seats well into the case, and moves without issue) but the second had will stop moving, the. I tap the crystal and it starts moving again. I’ve read that the second hand might be touching the inside of the crystal and to shave down the inner ring of the caseback. Any advice?
If the crown stem is too long the crown wont screw all the way down to the case, if its too short you wont be able to properly engage each position with the crown. Sounds like your second hand may be bent to high up and touching the crystal. No need to shave anything down as that will make the movement loose in the case, just bend the second hand down a little and test
Beautiful🔝🔝🔝
Thank you! Cheers!
If the case specifies it fits the NH36 & NH35, can you always just use the NH38? Are they the same size?
Yep!
How do you get your own logo on it?
Ive got a contact who does this for me, but there are sellers on aliexpress that offer this service
noice
Thanks!
A really impressive build it looks great, I've just finished my third build a Flieger and I'm already looking forward to the fourth, I'd love to see you build a day/date something like the Hamilton H64455523
Thanks mate! Im working on doing some more day dates!