Thanks. You wouldn’t believe the grief I got over this video from the “ you didn’t do it right” crowd. I clearly said in the video, this is an awful hack but if your going to throw it away , why not do this for a few more years of use.
I wanted to try your way, but I also had to do the seals too. I dropped the unit out and rotated the pully to get every drop out. Then upon refilling it I used my drill driver to rotate the pully and move the f/r lever back and forth to get all the air out. Hey great video thanks for posting it.
Really wanted to change the fluid on my L110. I knew I was going to have to take damn near everything apart, but my goodness man! Hats off to you for doing that!
The guy that made this video thank you so much it worked for me I siphon the old oil wasn't much and I filled it with 2050 and it works perfect thank you for making this video and giving me the idea to do it
@@bctruck yes sir it works thank you so much man that cut the time in half super half took about 15 to 20 minutes instead of two or three hours thank you some people say take the whole rear end out you don't have to do that just cycle that and refill it thank you sir you're the best if you have any more videos post them and I subscribe and follow you
Was trying to find videos of how to get to hydro trans on a Cub Cadet. Was getting seriously frustrated with having to take 1/2 the mower apart. Thanks for the Gorilla method. I'm all about this :-)
Thank you for this video, it helped me out a lot. I also raised the deck rear end to access the transmission fill plug, since it had leaked a lot of transmission oil from a bad seal. I had done this before to get the gas tank out to clean it. I know its not the correct way, but you cant even see any creases from lifting up the rear end and its much easier. The fill cap was the hardest part, a real pain to get off. I used a small screwdriver that I ground down to make it sharp as knife, then got a tiny but lifted on the cap. I switched to a hook screwdriver (basically has a really sharp mini hook on the end like a pirate's hand hook). I used a 12V pump to suck about 1 quart out of the transmission. Next year I will drop the rear end to get to the transmission, open it up and clean the filter and the lower magnet. I was under time pressure this time around. To check the oil level from the top, I used a small palm screwdriver with permanent marker line at exactly 7/8ths of an inch which is the level to fill to from the top. You DON'T want to over fill it. just place the palm screw driver in the fill hole and note where the oil comes. to. I used the cap from the trans oil to add slowing till I got exactly to the marked spot. Make sure the spin the wheels backwards and forwards a few times as you are filling.
Thanks for the Tip, I have a Scott’s S1642 And I was able to drill a hole through the body with a hole saw where the battery is and pop the plug spring and filter out from the top and bottom. Then refilled it with 1.5 quarts of 20W50 , I did not take the belt off Works great now. The transmission was really whining before and would barely move under load.
A HUGE Thank You in demoing how I can repeat your repair! Just what I thought was possible but now , after seeing your example, I know I can do the same. My 3- hr push mower lawn I can now cut it in 1 hr and trim it in 30 mins..Thanks Again Man!!
My wifes kubota had its hydrostat covered in dirt and grass when I got it. power washing it was step one. The unit looked like a round muddy basket ball with the fins filled right in. Just that alone makes them work better. Its a lot easier to access on the kubota though, eight bolts, and the back body is off.
These hydro units will last forever if they are taken care of. My cub cadet was an easy hydro unit to drain and refill. Its a hydrogear and those folks were very helpful as to what fluid to use.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Yea, the Kubota is too, there is a little service door in the operators station. I still ended up taking the fenders off to wash the fins out though.
My L111 was doing the same thing I didn't know if changing the oil would fix it or not, thank you so much for sharing this, I will have to see if it will fix my L111
I did this about 2 years ago. Used 20w50. Helped for awhile but not what i had hoped for. I’ll do it again, but will go back to the 10w30 that TuffTorq recommends. I have a T40 transmission. I live in the South and have a pretty hilly lawn.
I yanked my Hydra Gear out the bottom, but it's easier said than done. The linkages are the most impossible puzzle to disconnect and reconnect because they obviously don't care about ease of access. After 15 years the oil was many shades of metallic grey and the expansion tank had sludge in it. Maintenance-free, my ass. Luckily the transmission was still working perfectly fine. The transmission manual called for a 20W-50 engine oil and I used five quarts of 10W-50 full synthetic to do a complete flush and refill.
Nice, I made a video on replacing gas tank and I showed the removal of tank using your same technique on lifting the rear of body off the frame and I soon realized the butt hurt it caused. Some folks just don’t get it. Removing the dash is just not the reasonable option.
Yes, I saw that video and did the same thing to clean my gas tank. Im going to use that same method to get to the trans fill hole. Thank you and thanks to the poster of this video. MUCH EASIER!
That is so awesome about motor oil cause I do have that laying around. I bet you spend $100 filter new oil. You did good brother. Now I need to find ideas how I can reuse the oil filter. Oil in the transmission. Proud of them thinks.
I don't like the "sealed" transmission on mowers now. When it was time to buy I looked for one that wasn't sealed but those were only in the high end "commercial grade" mowers and I wasn't going to spend $5K plus for just that. But as you've pointed out many times, some simple consistent maintenance, like cleaning dirt, grass, off the transmission and deck, oil changes, emptying the gas out and running them dry, etc is all it take to get decent life out of these machines.
Amen to that! I agree 100%. Once a neighbor asked me when I got a new push mower and told him it's the same one I've had for four years and about 100 hours on it. I just keep it clean, maintain it and keep it in a shed along with my other equipment!
I'm always in charge of the bad words when we are doing motor work. LOL Just helped our daughter pull a motor out of a Toyota pick up. She's torn it down and rebuilt it almost all by herself. But, I've always got the bad words to add in.
I have a pre assembled list of bad words including some that can easily be mixed and matched with other bad words in case whatever I'm working on needs a long string of bad words spoken for it to work.
I wonder if using ATF would be better in the long run instead of differential fluid like 80/90 weight gear lube? I was told to use ATF in my trucks transfer case instead the thicker fluid that comes in it.
I have a 40 inch cut Murry, I washed the entire mower and I looked all over that thing and I can't find any vent tube, or any other place to get the old oil out, or new oil in. My thinking is, before they put the top and bottom together, they ( manufacturer) filled with oil. I may have to remove the transaxle and drill a hole to drain and refill. Mine is a manual transmission so I don't have any problems, but still I think it may need fresh oil
Ok, i bought a Simplicity Coronet 12.5 Briggs mower. Same problem. No power to wheels going uphill, especially after mowing a while. I managed, with a lot of work with a drill. Jigsaw. File. Hacksaw. But i got access to the sealed transmission. Its the red top in photo right behind the seat below the starter cool. Sucked out old oil. Replaced 2 quarts 20-50. Works now! Simplicity should be ashamed of them selves! It would have been so easy to build in access to this filler....! I will post photo if i can figure out how!
Bought a 20hp MTD lawn tractor from Walmart several years back for $700 bucks. Got about 10 years of use out of it before the governor finally broke. Thought about replacing it with a JD garden tractor but after doing some research, it seems that the quality that I thought came with a well established brand like JD just isn't there. Gonna go with the Cub Cadet. More expensive but should be worth it in the long run.
I have a 14 year old cub cadet. It's the LT1554. I mow 5 acres with it. It's the best mower I've ever owned. It has the kohler engine. A couple years ago I had to replace the head gaskets. It was an easy job. I think I'll get another 14 years out of it.
Depends on what you are dealing with whether it is a JD or CC. Big box models will essentially have the same or similar transmission. The CC at the cost level of this particular JD would be about the same. You have to compare apples to apples. Here's a CC with a similar problem as this JD. The JDs and CCs in the lower price ranges are not what they used to be. ua-cam.com/video/Pfh-HjJX7iM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/EfUXQlaa0Aw/v-deo.html
MTD makes Cub Cadet. In fact MTD owns Cub Cadet since 1981. John Deere gets most of their mowers from either MTD or the AYP division of Husqvarna. Even the ones sold at John Deere dealerships. If you look close you can find the labels. They may still make the 500 and 700 series garden tractors but that's a completely different price range than a lawn tractor.
watch this guys video. HUSQVARNA 54" EASY TRANSAXEL OIL CHANGE. Yes, different machine but they're almost identical when you buy ANY machine from a big box store regardless of "brand" ... even with the frames that crack.
I know this is old but I’ve got it his problem on my husqvarna, mine has oil all over it caked with debris also, where does the oil all over it come from ?
It really is shameful the depths of cheap they’ve stopped to ,to make these mowers. Just when you think they couldn’t possibly make them any cheaper, they figure out a part that that they can make from plastic that should be metal.
That was a great video, one of the best I have ever seen. Straight to the point no faffing about "take this 13mm bolt out using a 13mm socket wrench or if you do not have a 13mm socket wrench then you can use a 13mm spanner. When you have taken that bolt out move over to the other side and there is another bolt this is also 13mm which you can use a 13mm socket wrench, make sure it is undoing rather than tightening,,,,,,,blah, blah, blahh". Some of these guys on here just love the sound of their own voices although they bore the sh*t out of everybody explaining something that a three year old would know. So many thanks again for being so sharp and to the point, maybe the "blah blahs" will take note.
I noticed that the cap is cracked on that transmission. I have two JD's and I've replaced both of them.The cap cost a few bucks at the JD store. On another note my, x360, & x324 the fender pan came off pretty easy. I like your videos! Keep on making them. (Better than TV)
Undo the lower steering gear, take the 6 10 mm bolts off the pedestal disconnect wires disconnect the park break leaver, and lift, take seat springs off and the fender deck is free, about a 20 min job if you dont know what you are doing
I'm going to try this on my little honda hf1211 ride on. Maybe help get the thing into reverse. Mower is ten years old and I doubt the transmission oil has ever been changed. Worth a try.
If it’s a Honda, I’d think it would have a drain and refill plug. You might want to google your model number and see. The higher end mowers most often have the drains. Believe me, if you can drain and refill, you will notice an immediate difference. Also, google the type and amount of oil to replace it with. Some hydrostatic trannies take hydraulic fluid and others, motor oil.
Yep. It wasn’t worth being kind to, just to squeeze a another year or two out of it. When you have a lot to do in a large piece of property, you have to use your time carefully and wasting time on something that doesn’t justify a large amount of time or effort, just doesn’t make sense.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Well I guess course grit ain't much better than a course grinder :) If you have finer grit like step down to 700. For my kukri a medium file gets all the edge I need for chopping limbs.
I have a Dixon speedster 42" old zero turn mower. last fall one side stopped turning. we tried adjusting a few screws and its still stuck not moving. then I got underneath it and saw it is leaking from the hydrostatic gear box...please forgive me if I dont know the correct names of thing, btw. I am just an old lady trying to keep from having to replace it til I can afford to (I have a 7 grand vet bill I am paying off right now) I called the place where we bought it and they dont even sell them anymore. They tried to sell me something new. they said the hydrostatic system is sealed and has to be completely replaced if it is leaking and its thousands to replace. so I happened to see a video the other day by Scotty Kilmer talking about amp-205 and it stops leaks and can be used in a hydraulic fluid. Is there a way to add this fluid to the hydrostatic steering system ?
I have three very old dogs. I understand the vet bills. The first thing I would do is tighten the bolts where the two hydro halves come together. Then I would google the particular transmission that you have and see where you would add fluid. Then I would just add a synthetic 20-50 oil to the tranny and keep on mowing. There are a couple different brands of those hydro units. One is tuff torque. Find the brand name and you’ll be able to find the place where you add oil.
@@bctruck ok thanks. I was told its a sealed system so Thought that meant you couldnt add fluid To it but where there's a will there's a way...and what doI have to lose, right?
I can honestly say that the problem you are having is Not surprising after seeing the condition of your mower/transmission housing. Seriously, you can't expect your mower to perform adequately with the kind of mess that you've got, do you? Man O Man.
Rather than yanking up the fenders would it be possible to locate the plug and use a hole saw to make an opening on the fender assembly and still access the right spot?
I’m with you! Remove the battery & battery tray! Look at what’s needed next! Take that little plastic fan off the top & go from there. I have a Yard machine MTD 46 inch cut! 18.5 HP! Never maintenances! Lol now I’m trying to resurrect! Has a bagger!! Man do I miss it now!
most hydrostatic transmissions use a ATV style as in automatic transmission red fluid . but considering the metal on the magnets maybe the heavier oil will suit you better. Case uses 10w30 for their combined hydraulic - hydrostatic transmissions for their skid steer loader systems
there is like 4-6 bolts holding transmission on, then pull the belt off pulley, entire rear axle will come off, pull filler cap, flip over trans case over a 5 gallon bucket let old gooey oil out, wash out with a quart of marvels mystery oil, you MUST get 0w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic (special order from any auto parts store) [20w50 is too thick and will eventually wear out pump] refill, remount, and viola, it may take a bit to prime the pump after you change oil
As I said in the video, I went this route because it took 20 minutes and I wasn't willing to invest any more time than that. I said in the video exactly what you just said about removing the transmission. I called peerless(the maker of the transmission) and 20 50 is what they told me to put in that transmission. Thanks for your input.
@BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose - Good job Brad, glad it worked. My only complaint is you didn't show the after of the transmission, where it's 20/20 pretty, (20 feet away at 20 miles an hour it looks pretty). You inspire people with the before and after, making some say, "If a slightly overweight, older gentleman with aches and pains can do it, so can I damn it, no excuses".
cool cool, gedder done! And correction its 5W-50 synthetic, by the tuff-torq website (I was told the dino oil the resellers put in is what causes them to pre-maturely wear out and end up chewing up the pumps) but getting it whipped out in 20 min works just as well
+Brian C tuff torque,hydrogear,and peerless each have different requirements for viscosity. I e spoken with all three over the years. My tuff torque in the cub cadet takes 50 ounces of5-50 synthetic. This peerless takes 20-50. I used Dino oil because it's likely I'll do this again after 40 or 50 hours of use.
Yup… Gotta love the Planned Obscelesence (not sure if I spelled that right or not) of all this stuff built these days. The manufacturers of all this crap do not want you to fix any thing. They want you to throw it away and buy new. It's ridiculous' and pretty sad.
Fixed a freinds washing machine for 28 bucks. The repair man wanted 150 for the part and two hours labor at 45 an hour. Even when it can be repaired, they make it so expensive that you're not likely to.
I have used different machetes over the years and I find the best one for me so far has been the Kershaw camp 18.Very beefy blade,almost sword like than thin machete standards.So it has more than enough weight to give very effective cutting power.The tempered steel is very good and retains an edge well.I have seen a fail video for the Kershaw 18 where the blade had a crack in it but think that is an exception and not the rule.I do have a tramotina made in South America and while it is a decent machete it is too light for effective heavy chopping IMO.The Kershaw camp 18 is also a handsome blade again looking more like a short sword than a bush tool,its shape reminds me of a medieval falchion sword.Which were brutally know and made for cutting chain mail armor!
So where you having the mower slowing down and not pushing forward to keep mowing that's why you did that? My MTS5500 Craftsman riding mower is having that issue. It slows down and and after that it just won't go forward to keep mowing.
Thanks . looks like I am going to have to do this . I think I will power wash good though before starting . Looks like a heat issue all that crap built up on top of it .
It was very hard. I hammered a thin screw driver under the edge and pried up working it around. That was the hardest part of the whole job and I didn’t record because all the comments would have been just calling me a hack or telling me how I should have done it different. I tried gentle. That didn’t work. I had to get ugly with it.
They do that so you will call them for service repair. Craftsmans are the same way can't find any drain plug I guess they figure that your suppose to run it to the death and just buy another lawn tractor. You think they could design it to have a transmission drain plug on the under side were a person can put a oil pan underneath the transmission.
If you pull from only that one side, you left alot of old fluid in the second section, also rememember that is a filter that is sure to be very dirty that you couldnt get to. I'm thinking cutting a hole under the seat with a large hole saw would have gotten you access. (I think we all wanted to see your finished product with the sheet metal hammered back!)
Hey Brad love your channel. On your shortcut idea on the John Deere, had a thought for easier way instead of bending and then beating it back into submission. Why not cut the body at base of fenders where the running boards meet and install hinges so it would hinge. Don't know if it would work but it's a thought.
I got a couple of questions hopefully you can help. I have never fooled with one of these. I have a Murray it has this lever under the seat. I am told that is what takes it out of gear. It is suppose to be pulled over to one side. There is a plate that has a hook shape and when that lever is in that position. It is suppose to be out of gear. Not sure if I need to bend that bar or if there is some thing else going on. Any ideas " Second question. I got this siphon, sprayer that attaches to the air compressor hose. It is mainly for cleaning. When you squeeze the handle air blows out the end. And there is another line that is use to suck or siphon cleaner or in this case I am hoping oil and crap out of the transmission. I saw you were using a hand pump. So basically the same thing. Do you think that will work ?
No one responded guess you guys are busy. So here is what I did. I got my new siphon / sprayer pump out. The hose was worthless, it just a thin plastic hose that when they packaged it, they folded it. In every bend it hung up. So I used an old gas line. And that worked pretty good. There was a good bit of water in the mix, green and nasty. The only bad thing about doing it this way it takes a long while to spray out the crap. You can do it a 80 lbs but 120 works better. And my compressor is really old. So many of you guys say to use so many different things I was unsure as to what to use. Some say to use 80/90 oil some say to use engine oil. And no two people seem to agree on how much to put in. I guess that is because there are so many sizes. So I put in a 1 cup of hydraulic fluid. Got the wheels off the ground. Started up the tractor and pushed the forward pedal. And Nothing happened. For a minute or two I thought I had really FUBAR this thing. Then realized I had the break on. So I released it and pressed the forward pedal. The wheels spun around. After 10 minutes or so of running I noticed No more whining. So I drove around the yard once and back into the shop. I sprayed out some more of that old fluid. But then it started getting late and I had to stop. I plan on flushing it out once more then adding the 80/90 wt oil. The pump is all together a different story. This thing is rusted up. It took me 4 hrs to get the nut off, using air tools. I bought a pulley puller put it on and used the air hammer like when you take a flywheel off. It did not budge. So it is soaking in PB Blaster. I had mentioned that I could not roll the tractor. It is like it is still in gear. After putting in the new oil it like it is trying to come out of gear when I push it. It makes a clicking sound like it is still half way engaged. But I can move it now. Before it was completely locked up. Perhaps it will free up.
Don’t use 80/90. Use 20/50 synthetic. I have over 1000 videos. Even with 1 comment a day on that many videos, I’m sure can see how nearly impossible it is to keep up.
I feel honored that you took the time to respond, thank you.!! But there are other out there as well. And they are welcome to respond. As I am writing these post, I hope it may help someone along the way. So here is the rest of what of what I have done. I had the tractor's wheels off the ground and started it and let it run. Strapped a rope to the forward pedal and let it run for about 10 min. Then shut it down and pumped out all the oil. Then did the same thing again. So that was two good flushes. Then put the 20/50 in. Ran the machine around the yard. Took it up some hills forward and backward. And it ran good. Some slight whining noise up hill but nothing like what it was. So I think I got the transmission done. Now I have to work on getting that pulley off to get to the pump. The pulley is rusted on. I left the nut off hoping the vibration would help free it. So far no luck.
I just dropped the transaxle out of my L110 and it only takes 15 minutes tops, and is so much easier to drain and perform a good cleaning when it’s out.
Thanks! If I was doing this on someone elses mower,I would have done it the right way,but I didnt want to spend any more time on it than I already did.
While mines apart right now I'm gonna repaint it and you've got some springs under some of that stuff that will need greased up one goes to your parking brake you might not know it so now you do Taking them screws out under the battery was a bitch doing and hardly no hand room my screws were almost rusted to the green body all that shit needs painted up to keep the rust away I can tell john deere doesn't want regular people working on they're own stuff just from all the bullshit you gotta take loose to get the gas tank out nothing was wrong with mine it just wasn't a gravity fed tank and I made mine gravity fed with new gasline and will add a gas filter on the line I'm gonna have to weld a bracket on under the seat once I cut the hole out for the new old craftsmen gas tank after i change the transaxle transmission fluid
Why go through all that work!? Pull the tire crawl under (closer to the deck side) and with a small flat head screw driver pop the lid off. Use a fluid pump found at amazon for $10 and walaaa 20 min later you’ve flushed er out without cranking a wrench
No, it's not Yankee engineering! It's called Lazy engineering. I'll bet that you end up working twice as hard at it. Nice damn neighborhood though. Nicely cut lawn!
So this is a video on how to refill the transmission, but you don't show how to get the plug out, how to replace the plug you bent, how much oil to refill with, or how you cleaned off the transmission. Then, after making a big deal about how you accessed the transmission, you did not show how you got the body back down or what it looked like. All I learned is that you refilled the transmission, but not how to do mine.
No. It isn’t. The only way to get to the belt on top of the transmission, is to remove the body. The only way to remove the body, is to remove to entire cowl, which is bolted on top of the body. You clearly dont have this particular mower, or you would understand this.
As they Say, If there is a Will, there is a Way----One thing I have to Say, Pulling this Transmission is not Hard unless you are someone that can't walk and chew gum at the same time...ha......
No, it absolutely is NOT. You’ve never removed a transaxle from this model, or you would know why it isn’t easier. Any other model, yes, that would be much easier, but the designed this model to discourage anyone to attempt to make this mower last longer.
This video showed us all on UA-cam how to fix something NONE FIXABLE. I really like the short cut.
Thanks. You wouldn’t believe the grief I got over this video from the “ you didn’t do it right” crowd. I clearly said in the video, this is an awful hack but if your going to throw it away , why not do this for a few more years of use.
@@bctruck Could not agree with you more. Nice work too.
I wanted to try your way, but I also had to do the seals too. I dropped the unit out and rotated the pully to get every drop out. Then upon refilling it I used my drill driver to rotate the pully and move the f/r lever back and forth to get all the air out. Hey great video thanks for posting it.
Really wanted to change the fluid on my L110. I knew I was going to have to take damn near everything apart, but my goodness man! Hats off to you for doing that!
What kind of sick and sadistic engineer would design something like this?
The guy that made this video thank you so much it worked for me I siphon the old oil wasn't much and I filled it with 2050 and it works perfect thank you for making this video and giving me the idea to do it
Glad it worked for you!
@@bctruck yes sir it works thank you so much man that cut the time in half super half took about 15 to 20 minutes instead of two or three hours thank you some people say take the whole rear end out you don't have to do that just cycle that and refill it thank you sir you're the best if you have any more videos post them and I subscribe and follow you
Was trying to find videos of how to get to hydro trans on a Cub Cadet.
Was getting seriously frustrated with having to take 1/2 the mower apart.
Thanks for the Gorilla method. I'm all about this :-)
Thank you for this video, it helped me out a lot. I also raised the deck rear end to access the transmission fill plug, since it had leaked a lot of transmission oil from a bad seal. I had done this before to get the gas tank out to clean it. I know its not the correct way, but you cant even see any creases from lifting up the rear end and its much easier. The fill cap was the hardest part, a real pain to get off. I used a small screwdriver that I ground down to make it sharp as knife, then got a tiny but lifted on the cap. I switched to a hook screwdriver (basically has a really sharp mini hook on the end like a pirate's hand hook). I used a 12V pump to suck about 1 quart out of the transmission. Next year I will drop the rear end to get to the transmission, open it up and clean the filter and the lower magnet. I was under time pressure this time around. To check the oil level from the top, I used a small palm screwdriver with permanent marker line at exactly 7/8ths of an inch which is the level to fill to from the top. You DON'T want to over fill it. just place the palm screw driver in the fill hole and note where the oil comes. to. I used the cap from the trans oil to add slowing till I got exactly to the marked spot. Make sure the spin the wheels backwards and forwards a few times as you are filling.
Thanks for the Tip, I have a Scott’s S1642 And I was able to drill a hole through the body with a hole saw where the battery is and pop the plug spring and filter out from the top and bottom. Then refilled it with 1.5 quarts of 20W50 , I did not take the belt off Works great now. The transmission was really whining before and would barely move under load.
That is how I changed my gas tank a few seasons ago. I am going to pull the unit for the oil change. Nice video.
same here
A HUGE Thank You in demoing how I can repeat your repair! Just what I thought was possible but now , after seeing your example, I know I can do the same. My 3- hr push mower lawn I can now cut it in 1 hr and trim it in 30 mins..Thanks Again Man!!
My wifes kubota had its hydrostat covered in dirt and grass when I got it. power washing it was step one. The unit looked like a round muddy basket ball with the fins filled right in. Just that alone makes them work better. Its a lot easier to access on the kubota though, eight bolts, and the back body is off.
These hydro units will last forever if they are taken care of. My cub cadet was an easy hydro unit to drain and refill. Its a hydrogear and those folks were very helpful as to what fluid to use.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose
Yea, the Kubota is too, there is a little service door in the operators station. I still ended up taking the fenders off to wash the fins out though.
My L111 was doing the same thing I didn't know if changing the oil would fix it or not, thank you so much for sharing this, I will have to see if it will fix my L111
Did replacing the fluid help?
I did this about 2 years ago. Used 20w50. Helped for awhile but not what i had hoped for. I’ll do it again, but will go back to the 10w30 that TuffTorq recommends. I have a T40 transmission. I live in the South and have a pretty hilly lawn.
I yanked my Hydra Gear out the bottom, but it's easier said than done. The linkages are the most impossible puzzle to disconnect and reconnect because they obviously don't care about ease of access. After 15 years the oil was many shades of metallic grey and the expansion tank had sludge in it. Maintenance-free, my ass. Luckily the transmission was still working perfectly fine. The transmission manual called for a 20W-50 engine oil and I used five quarts of 10W-50 full synthetic to do a complete flush and refill.
Nice, I made a video on replacing gas tank and I showed the removal of tank using your same technique on lifting the rear of body off the frame and I soon realized the butt hurt it caused. Some folks just don’t get it. Removing the dash is just not the reasonable option.
Yes, I saw that video and did the same thing to clean my gas tank. Im going to use that same method to get to the trans fill hole. Thank you and thanks to the poster of this video. MUCH EASIER!
Awesome job. Now that we know where the access is, one can cut a trap door over it, in order to not have to lift the whole deck up.
Good luck putting a trapdoor thru its fueltank.
That is so awesome about motor oil cause I do have that laying around. I bet you spend $100 filter new oil. You did good brother. Now I need to find ideas how I can reuse the oil filter. Oil in the transmission. Proud of them thinks.
I don't like the "sealed" transmission on mowers now. When it was time to buy I looked for one that wasn't sealed but those were only in the high end "commercial grade" mowers and I wasn't going to spend $5K plus for just that.
But as you've pointed out many times, some simple consistent maintenance, like cleaning dirt, grass, off the transmission and deck, oil changes, emptying the gas out and running them dry, etc is all it take to get decent life out of these machines.
It pains me to see someone who cant even keep the machine under a cover when not in use. rain and sun will eat one away faster than using it will.
Amen to that! I agree 100%. Once a neighbor asked me when I got a new push mower and told him it's the same one I've had for four years and about 100 hours on it. I just keep it clean, maintain it and keep it in a shed along with my other equipment!
Is it not easier to pull the transmission and pour the oil through the infusion?
This transmission is so muddy that there is probably no cooling..
MrKamil28 needs cleaned on outside first to much mud
I just want to say all you had to do was unbolt the transaxle and brackets and remove the belt and the pins and it will come off
I'm always in charge of the bad words when we are doing motor work. LOL Just helped our daughter pull a motor out of a Toyota pick up. She's torn it down and rebuilt it almost all by herself. But, I've always got the bad words to add in.
I have a pre assembled list of bad words including some that can easily be mixed and matched with other bad words in case whatever I'm working on needs a long string of bad words spoken for it to work.
Hey yankee ,thanks man just pulled the same thing on my john deer , was not looking forward to all that work , was at trans. In 5 minutes
Yep. It ain’t the right way, but it’s the quickest way.
I wonder if using ATF would be better in the long run instead of differential fluid like 80/90 weight gear lube? I was told to use ATF in my trucks transfer case instead the thicker fluid that comes in it.
I used what the manufacturer recommended.
I have a 40 inch cut Murry, I washed the entire mower and I looked all over that thing and I can't find any vent tube, or any other place to get the old oil out, or new oil in. My thinking is, before they put the top and bottom together, they ( manufacturer) filled with oil. I may have to remove the transaxle and drill a hole to drain and refill. Mine is a manual transmission so I don't have any problems, but still I think it may need fresh oil
Ok, i bought a Simplicity Coronet 12.5 Briggs mower. Same problem. No power to wheels going uphill, especially after mowing a while. I managed, with a lot of work with a drill. Jigsaw. File. Hacksaw. But i got access to the sealed transmission. Its the red top in photo right behind the seat below the starter cool. Sucked out old oil. Replaced 2 quarts 20-50. Works now! Simplicity should be ashamed of them selves! It would have been so easy to build in access to this filler....! I will post photo if i can figure out how!
Fantastic! Glad you could save it.
I cant figure out to post photo....@bctruck
@rickgreen1159 I’ve never heard of that being done on UA-cam.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsFyRwBU7fc1Q?si=1usjQwORagTYE5oq
Bought a 20hp MTD lawn tractor from Walmart several years back for $700 bucks. Got about 10 years of use out of it before the governor finally broke. Thought about replacing it with a JD garden tractor but after doing some research, it seems that the quality that I thought came with a well established brand like JD just isn't there. Gonna go with the Cub Cadet. More expensive but should be worth it in the long run.
I have a 14 year old cub cadet. It's the LT1554. I mow 5 acres with it. It's the best mower I've ever owned. It has the kohler engine. A couple years ago I had to replace the head gaskets. It was an easy job. I think I'll get another 14 years out of it.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose
Thanks. Good to hear that. $4,500 ain't exactly pocket change.
Depends on what you are dealing with whether it is a JD or CC. Big box models will essentially have the same or similar transmission. The CC at the cost level of this particular JD would be about the same. You have to compare apples to apples. Here's a CC with a similar problem as this JD. The JDs and CCs in the lower price ranges are not what they used to be.
ua-cam.com/video/Pfh-HjJX7iM/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/EfUXQlaa0Aw/v-deo.html
MTD makes Cub Cadet. In fact MTD owns Cub Cadet since 1981. John Deere gets most of their mowers from either MTD or the AYP division of Husqvarna. Even the ones sold at John Deere dealerships. If you look close you can find the labels. They may still make the 500 and 700 series garden tractors but that's a completely different price range than a lawn tractor.
cut at the scene where it was bent and then putting hinges for like a door with pop rivets
watch this guys video. HUSQVARNA 54" EASY TRANSAXEL OIL CHANGE. Yes, different machine but they're almost identical when you buy ANY machine from a big box store regardless of "brand" ... even with the frames that crack.
No, the husqvarna fenders come off without having to take off the steering wheel and dashboard. This mower is unlike any other I’ve had to take apart.
I know this is old but I’ve got it his problem on my husqvarna, mine has oil all over it caked with debris also, where does the oil all over it come from ?
I would think the seal around the shafts are bad.
I think I would have done the same thing. Good job. Its a working machine not a parade queen.
This is most definitely not a parade queen. LOL!!'
Smart repair. It's a shame so many of these tractors are build so poorly.
It really is shameful the depths of cheap they’ve stopped to ,to make these mowers. Just when you think they couldn’t possibly make them any cheaper, they figure out a part that that they can make from plastic that should be metal.
That was a great video, one of the best I have ever seen.
Straight to the point no faffing about "take this 13mm bolt out using a 13mm socket wrench or if you do not have a 13mm socket wrench then you can use a 13mm spanner.
When you have taken that bolt out move over to the other side and there is another bolt this is also 13mm which you can use a 13mm socket wrench, make sure it is undoing rather than tightening,,,,,,,blah, blah, blahh". Some of these guys on here just love the sound of their own voices although they bore the sh*t out of everybody explaining something that a three year old would know.
So many thanks again for being so sharp and to the point, maybe the "blah blahs" will take note.
Thanks!
I noticed that the cap is cracked on that transmission. I have two JD's and I've replaced both of them.The cap cost a few bucks at the JD store.
On another note my, x360, & x324 the fender pan came off pretty easy.
I like your videos! Keep on making them. (Better than TV)
Undo the lower steering gear, take the 6 10 mm bolts off the pedestal disconnect wires disconnect the park break leaver, and lift, take seat springs off and the fender deck is free, about a 20 min job if you dont know what you are doing
Did mine that way a few years ago, works good.
I'm going to try this on my little honda hf1211 ride on. Maybe help get the thing into reverse. Mower is ten years old and I doubt the transmission oil has ever been changed. Worth a try.
If it’s a Honda, I’d think it would have a drain and refill plug. You might want to google your model number and see. The higher end mowers most often have the drains. Believe me, if you can drain and refill, you will notice an immediate difference. Also, google the type and amount of oil to replace it with. Some hydrostatic trannies take hydraulic fluid and others, motor oil.
Why wouldn't you just drop the trans out? It's 6 bolts and a couple linkages? I did a fluid change on my D140, only took 20 minutes to remove it.
Well aren’t you just the most amazing little D140 mechanic. Your mom is so proud of you. I’ll bet you have a bunch of gold stars on the fridge.
@@bctruck ?? You don't need to be a dick, showing others how to ruin their fenders is good too I guess.
Legend has it he left it all dirty and crusted up.
Yep. It wasn’t worth being kind to, just to squeeze a another year or two out of it. When you have a lot to do in a large piece of property, you have to use your time carefully and wasting time on something that doesn’t justify a large amount of time or effort, just doesn’t make sense.
Great Video Beautiful Landscape Like Night and Day.
I'm a little OCD about my yard. It's simple,I know,but I get a lot of pleasure from having a pretty yard.
They have drain kits for these now thru tuff torq
sweet shortcut, time is more precious than lawnmower cosmetics in my book
another good shortcut, belt sander for sharpening.
I finally did that. Still took an hour to stone out the belt marks.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Well I guess course grit ain't much better than a course grinder :) If you have finer grit like step down to 700. For my kukri a medium file gets all the edge I need for chopping limbs.
I have a Dixon speedster 42" old zero turn mower. last fall one side stopped turning. we tried adjusting a few screws and its still stuck not moving. then I got underneath it and saw it is leaking from the hydrostatic gear box...please forgive me if I dont know the correct names of thing, btw. I am just an old lady trying to keep from having to replace it til I can afford to (I have a 7 grand vet bill I am paying off right now) I called the place where we bought it and they dont even sell them anymore. They tried to sell me something new. they said the hydrostatic system is sealed and has to be completely replaced if it is leaking and its thousands to replace. so I happened to see a video the other day by Scotty Kilmer talking about amp-205 and it stops leaks and can be used in a hydraulic fluid. Is there a way to add this fluid to the hydrostatic steering system ?
I have three very old dogs. I understand the vet bills. The first thing I would do is tighten the bolts where the two hydro halves come together. Then I would google the particular transmission that you have and see where you would add fluid. Then I would just add a synthetic 20-50 oil to the tranny and keep on mowing. There are a couple different brands of those hydro units. One is tuff torque. Find the brand name and you’ll be able to find the place where you add oil.
@@bctruck ok thanks. I was told its a sealed system so Thought that meant you couldnt add fluid To it but where there's a will there's a way...and what doI have to lose, right?
It is a sealed system, but they had to put the fluid in there somehow.
I can honestly say that the problem you are having is Not surprising after seeing the condition of your mower/transmission housing. Seriously, you can't expect your mower to perform adequately with the kind of mess that you've got, do you? Man O Man.
You understand that I buy used junk and get it running,,,,right? The condition of this is not my doing. Man o man.
@@bctruck No sir, I did not understand your situation. I simply ran across your video and made an honest assessment of things. Now I understand.
Rather than yanking up the fenders would it be possible to locate the plug and use a hole saw to make an opening on the fender assembly and still access the right spot?
No.
I’m with you! Remove the battery & battery tray! Look at what’s needed next! Take that little plastic fan off the top & go from there.
I have a Yard machine MTD 46 inch cut!
18.5 HP!
Never maintenances!
Lol now I’m trying to resurrect! Has a bagger!!
Man do I miss it now!
most hydrostatic transmissions use a ATV style as in automatic transmission red fluid . but considering the metal on the magnets maybe the heavier oil will suit you better. Case uses 10w30 for their combined hydraulic - hydrostatic transmissions for their skid steer loader systems
Use only the Manufacturers recommended fluid or 10-50 motor oil. NOT ATF.
@@gordbaker896 unless the factory reccomends ATF. Which is what simplicity reccomends with their sunstrand transmissions
@@BornRandy62 Thanks Randy. I was referring to JD trans axles.
@@gordbaker896 still a sunstrand hydrostatic transmission
@@BornRandy62 The K58 hydrostatic Transmission in JD x320 lawn tractors is made by Tuff Torq.
why wont they just put a fill plug/drain plug on it? is that so hard?
Because then it wouldn’t be a throw away mower, and that’s what they want you to do.
there is like 4-6 bolts holding transmission on, then pull the belt off pulley, entire rear axle will come off, pull filler cap, flip over trans case over a 5 gallon bucket let old gooey oil out, wash out with a quart of marvels mystery oil, you MUST get 0w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic (special order from any auto parts store) [20w50 is too thick and will eventually wear out pump] refill, remount, and viola, it may take a bit to prime the pump after you change oil
As I said in the video, I went this route because it took 20 minutes and I wasn't willing to invest any more time than that. I said in the video exactly what you just said about removing the transmission. I called peerless(the maker of the transmission) and 20 50 is what they told me to put in that transmission. Thanks for your input.
@BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose - Good job Brad, glad it worked.
My only complaint is you didn't show the after of the transmission, where it's 20/20 pretty, (20 feet away at 20 miles an hour it looks pretty). You inspire people with the before and after, making some say, "If a slightly overweight, older gentleman with aches and pains can do it, so can I damn it, no excuses".
cool cool, gedder done!
And correction its 5W-50 synthetic, by the tuff-torq website (I was told the dino oil the resellers put in is what causes them to pre-maturely wear out and end up chewing up the pumps) but getting it whipped out in 20 min works just as well
+JeffsFreedomGarage "slightly overweight",,,,,, you're too kind! LOL!!!
+Brian C tuff torque,hydrogear,and peerless each have different requirements for viscosity. I e spoken with all three over the years. My tuff torque in the cub cadet takes 50 ounces of5-50 synthetic. This peerless takes 20-50. I used Dino oil because it's likely I'll do this again after 40 or 50 hours of use.
Yup… Gotta love the Planned Obscelesence (not sure if I spelled that right or not) of all this stuff built these days. The manufacturers of all this crap do not want you to fix any thing. They want you to throw it away and buy new. It's ridiculous' and pretty sad.
Fixed a freinds washing machine for 28 bucks. The repair man wanted 150 for the part and two hours labor at 45 an hour. Even when it can be repaired, they make it so expensive that you're not likely to.
So all these years later how is it holding up?
I kept it a year and traded it on another junk. I did have a cub cadet that I changed fluid on and it had 3000 hours on it when I sold it.
So don’t use transmission fluid just good ole 20w-50 oil?
right. no transmission fluid in this model.
Legend.
Im about to do mine thanks to you
I have a ez225 0 turn. I can see the cap on the trans. It takes a Allen wrench. It seems. Is that the way you got yours off.
Fluid transfer pumps are a "thing" of mine, not a clue why. Maybe I'm just weird.
I swear I have one of these somewhere in the house! I got so aggravated looking for it that I just went and bought another one.
I'd like to see how you removed the cap?
I had a skinny scribe (awl) and got it under the edge and pried it up enough to get a screwdriver under it.
Brother, it woulda been easier to take the transmission out
Nope. I’ve taken transmissions out many times. This was fast and easy since I didn’t care what it looked like.
Wouldnt have. Body's way easier to get off
I have used different machetes over the years and I find the best one for me so far has been the Kershaw camp 18.Very beefy blade,almost sword like than thin machete standards.So it has more than enough weight to give very effective cutting power.The tempered steel is very good and retains an edge well.I have seen a fail video for the Kershaw 18 where the blade had a crack in it but think that is an exception and not the rule.I do have a tramotina made in South America and while it is a decent machete it is too light for effective heavy chopping IMO.The Kershaw camp 18 is also a handsome blade again looking more like a short sword than a bush tool,its shape reminds me of a medieval falchion sword.Which were brutally know and made for cutting chain mail armor!
Thanks. I'll google that and have a look.
I checked it out. Very nice blade. If I hadn't already ordered three more,I'd get me one of them.
Great shortcut on servicing those transmissions. That trans must really get hot when oil and dirt build up on it.
the heat is what ruins the fluid in them. the cleaner you can keep the little hydro units,the longer you can put off having to figure a way into them.
How did you get the sealed magnet cap out????
I took an awl, stuck it under the edge of the cap and I was able to pry up enough to get a flat blade screwdriver under the edge. It pops right out.
When did you take the gas tank off?
The gas tank sits under the seat. It comes out easy when you remove the seat bolts.
Great video! Glad I.dont have to pull the trans!!!!! ❤️❤️❤️
If I maybe so bold
How about Cutting at the area of the semi fold ahead of seat.
And installing a piano hinge Then NO MORE PROBLEM.
oh you,,,with your good ideas and sensible solutions! Stop showing off! I grew up in the 60,s! ok?
;)
So where you having the mower slowing down and not pushing forward to keep mowing that's why you did that? My MTS5500 Craftsman riding mower is having that issue. It slows down and and after that it just won't go forward to keep mowing.
Yes. That is exactly what it was doing.
Thank you for the response. Thank you for your DIY videos in spreading the knowledge
I was getting tempted to buy a new trans or maybe dismantle and fix but I will try this and hopefully that will solve my issue.
Oh one more thing, can you use just a regular 20, 50 to replace the fluid?
@@pelesmaan75 Im pretty sure it has to be synthetic.
what would be better 20w-50 or 15w-50, I use my john deere d125 in warm weathers 60-90 degrees F ?
In the transmission, it has to be 20/50 year round.
ok thank you!!
Yeah show that mower who is the boss
how exactly you get cap back on with out leaking , and get it off ?
I got it off by hammering a sharp pick into the edge and prying it up. To put it back, tap it with a hammer to seat the O ring.
Thanks . looks like I am going to have to do this . I think I will power wash good though before starting . Looks like a heat issue all that crap built up on top of it .
How did you get the fluid cap off? Having an issue with that
It was very hard. I hammered a thin screw driver under the edge and pried up working it around. That was the hardest part of the whole job and I didn’t record because all the comments would have been just calling me a hack or telling me how I should have done it different. I tried gentle. That didn’t work. I had to get ugly with it.
Thanks! I'm going to try it!
@@bctruck When finished, did the cap go back on easily, without concern for leaking? Is any sealant required? Thanks. ~ Hoak
mrcashcrop it has a rubber O ring. Tap it back in an it’s seals tight.
Good job Yankee!
No transmition fluid? no additive to the oil? are you sure its a good idea? from what I have seen, transmition oil is a compleatly different oil!
This is a hydro unit and it's what the manufacturer recommends.
how much oil does it take to fill it back up?
kerm I measure how much I took out and put that amount of fresh oil back in.
They do that so you will call them for service repair. Craftsmans are the same way can't find any drain plug I guess they figure that your suppose to run it to the death and just buy another lawn tractor. You think they could design it to have a transmission drain plug on the under side were a person can put a oil pan underneath the transmission.
If you pull from only that one side, you left alot of old fluid in the second section, also rememember that is a filter that is sure to be very dirty that you couldnt get to. I'm thinking cutting a hole under the seat with a large hole saw would have gotten you access. (I think we all wanted to see your finished product with the sheet metal hammered back!)
There is a flow valley inside the unit , there are 2 sides true , but filling one side it will flow to the other side & slowly level out !!
what kind of fluid did you use?
castrol 20-50
cant seem to find out how much oil to put in the transmission dose anyone know?
Well, this Ole Yankee thinks ya dun good Son !! I'll keep this in mind !! To me, it's a weed beater, not a show machine !!
Hey Brad love your channel. On your shortcut idea on the John Deere, had a thought for easier way instead of bending and then beating it back into submission. Why not cut the body at base of fenders where the running boards meet and install hinges so it would hinge. Don't know if it would work but it's a thought.
well,if I ever do it again,thats what ill do.
I changed mine by dropping the transmission.
Next time I'll try it this way.
This is definitely the lazy mans way!!
I heard there is a full Line on those is this true couldn't seem to notice one in mine
How long did you repair last?
still going strong.
No shame in doing less taking apart.... looks like what I'd do , if it was my machine.
I am glad it is possible to do things in such a way. They design those new ones like throw-aways and it is bad sometimes.
You think 2 quarts 20/50 gastric regular oil (earl) lol?
I wouldnt even think it would take a half a quart.
I got a couple of questions hopefully you can help. I have never fooled with one of these. I have a Murray it has this lever under the seat. I am told that is what takes it out of gear. It is suppose to be pulled over to one side. There is a plate that has a hook shape and when that lever is in that position. It is suppose to be out of gear. Not sure if I need to bend that bar or if there is some thing else going on. Any ideas " Second question. I got this siphon, sprayer that attaches to the air compressor hose. It is mainly for cleaning. When you squeeze the handle air blows out the end. And there is another line that is use to suck or siphon cleaner or in this case I am hoping oil and crap out of the transmission. I saw you were using a hand pump. So basically the same thing. Do you think that will work ?
No one responded guess you guys are busy. So here is what I did. I got my new siphon / sprayer pump out. The hose was worthless, it just a thin plastic hose that when they packaged it, they folded it. In every bend it hung up. So I used an old gas line. And that worked pretty good. There was a good bit of water in the mix, green and nasty. The only bad thing about doing it this way it takes a long while to spray out the crap. You can do it a 80 lbs but 120 works better. And my compressor is really old. So many of you guys say to use so many different things I was unsure as to what to use. Some say to use 80/90 oil some say to use engine oil. And no two people seem to agree on how much to put in. I guess that is because there are so many sizes. So I put in a 1 cup of hydraulic fluid. Got the wheels off the ground. Started up the tractor and pushed the forward pedal. And Nothing happened. For a minute or two I thought I had really FUBAR this thing. Then realized I had the break on. So I released it and pressed the forward pedal. The wheels spun around. After 10 minutes or so of running I noticed No more whining. So I drove around the yard once and back into the shop. I sprayed out some more of that old fluid. But then it started getting late and I had to stop. I plan on flushing it out once more then adding the 80/90 wt oil. The pump is all together a different story. This thing is rusted up. It took me 4 hrs to get the nut off, using air tools. I bought a pulley puller put it on and used the air hammer like when you take a flywheel off. It did not budge. So it is soaking in PB Blaster. I had mentioned that I could not roll the tractor. It is like it is still in gear. After putting in the new oil it like it is trying to come out of gear when I push it. It makes a clicking sound like it is still half way engaged. But I can move it now. Before it was completely locked up. Perhaps it will free up.
Don’t use 80/90. Use 20/50 synthetic. I have over 1000 videos. Even with 1 comment a day on that many videos, I’m sure can see how nearly impossible it is to keep up.
I feel honored that you took the time to respond, thank you.!! But there are other out there as well. And they are welcome to respond. As I am writing these post, I hope it may help someone along the way.
So here is the rest of what of what I have done. I had the tractor's wheels off the ground and started it and let it run. Strapped a rope to the forward pedal and let it run for about 10 min. Then shut it down and pumped out all the oil. Then did the same thing again. So that was two good flushes. Then put the 20/50 in. Ran the machine around the yard. Took it up some hills forward and backward. And it ran good. Some slight whining noise up hill but nothing like what it was. So I think I got the transmission done. Now I have to work on getting that pulley off to get to the pump. The pulley is rusted on. I left the nut off hoping the vibration would help free it. So far no luck.
If you're worried about the wife cutting off a toe just say "dear don't cut off a toe"...She'll never touch it!! LOL!
Im not worried about her toe! Im afraid she will come after me and cut one off.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Well then, HIDE THEM!!
I just dropped the transaxle out of my L110 and it only takes 15 minutes tops, and is so much easier to drain and perform a good cleaning when it’s out.
Great! thanks for watching!
Nice job Brad.When ya got to get it done.Theres more than one way to skin a cat.Thats thinking outside the box.Noce Job.
Thanks! If I was doing this on someone elses mower,I would have done it the right way,but I didnt want to spend any more time on it than I already did.
I'm doing this this weekend
While mines apart right now I'm gonna repaint it and you've got some springs under some of that stuff that will need greased up one goes to your parking brake you might not know it so now you do
Taking them screws out under the battery was a bitch doing and hardly no hand room my screws were almost rusted to the green body all that shit needs painted up to keep the rust away
I can tell john deere doesn't want regular people working on they're own stuff just from all the bullshit you gotta take loose to get the gas tank out nothing was wrong with mine it just wasn't a gravity fed tank and I made mine gravity fed with new gasline and will add a gas filter on the line I'm gonna have to weld a bracket on under the seat once I cut the hole out for the new old craftsmen gas tank after i change the transaxle transmission fluid
"Yanked that son of a gun up!" Hahahaha
MacGyver is your middle name!
YUP!!!! I’m doing the same thing right now! CRAZY dumb!!!
The transmission on your thumbnail is different than the one your working on. I have the one on the thumbnail and this didn't help
That’s funny right there.
Brilliant im going to,try that .
Your way is excellent.
There are rite ways and wrong ways to fix things, if you don’t care about your equipment I guess this method would work
I said very clearly in this video that I wouldn’t do this to anything I cared about. I just wanted to squeeze another year or two out of it.
Nice work!
Thanks!
Why go through all that work!? Pull the tire crawl under (closer to the deck side) and with a small flat head screw driver pop the lid off. Use a fluid pump found at amazon for $10 and walaaa 20 min later you’ve flushed er out without cranking a wrench
I went to your cjhannel and didnt see the video of you doing that. Could you leave a link?
No, it's not Yankee engineering! It's called Lazy engineering. I'll bet that you end up working twice as hard at it. Nice damn neighborhood though. Nicely cut lawn!
No, it’s yankee engineering. I’m a yankee and I engineered it. Fixed, ran it for a couple years and sold it.
So this is a video on how to refill the transmission, but you don't show how to get the plug out, how to replace the plug you bent, how much oil to refill with, or how you cleaned off the transmission. Then, after making a big deal about how you accessed the transmission, you did not show how you got the body back down or what it looked like. All I learned is that you refilled the transmission, but not how to do mine.
Well Shane,,, that’s because you’re an idjit.
You think I could do it this way on a JD X304? It has the piece of shit K46 Tuff Torg in it!
Sorry Bill but I would have to see it. I’m not familiar with particular model. Peerless and hydro gear are what I’ve worked on the most.
I call it military engineering ... overcome...adapt...compensate
I like that nomenclature!
Well it’s a lot easier to drop the Tran out 😢
No. It isn’t. The only way to get to the belt on top of the transmission, is to remove the body. The only way to remove the body, is to remove to entire cowl, which is bolted on top of the body. You clearly dont have this particular mower, or you would understand this.
Brad, great job and vid thanks. tom
Thanks!
As they Say, If there is a Will, there is a Way----One thing I have to Say, Pulling this Transmission is not Hard unless you are someone that can't walk and chew gum at the same time...ha......
Its easier just to take the transaxle out
No, it absolutely is NOT. You’ve never removed a transaxle from this model, or you would know why it isn’t easier. Any other model, yes, that would be much easier, but the designed this model to discourage anyone to attempt to make this mower last longer.