M157 KILLER SMOKING GUN? Oil Pump Solenoid ~ Free mod! ~
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- Could this be the smoking gun on the M157 Cylinder scoring, bent rods etc?
THIS IS STILL IN BETA, CHECK OUT THE 1500+ POSTS OF TESTING AND RESEARCH IN THE ATTACHED THREADS BELOW!
~ this also apparently applies to all Mercedes engines, m276, m278 etc etc ~
Again, Do your own research for your own car, this is what i found for mine.
HUGE THANKS TO MBworld users: S-Prihadi and CaliBenzDriver for the Research Credit and figuring this out
ALSo HUGE thanks to 'kevm14' for starting the "wiki" thread on MBworld linked below
Here are the two main threads on the Oil pump Solenoid
mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w2...
the m157 wiki thread:
mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/8...
Here is @TasosMoschatos vid on the solenoids:
• oil pump solenoid valv...
Be sure to check out Tasos channel / @tasosmoschatos
PART 1 of free mods, Always on coolant pump • ~ ALWAYS-ON ~ Interco...
silicone boots
amzn.to/3zYNpaU
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b250, e350, e550, e400, s550 s63 cls550 cls63
00:00 Importance of oil
01:08 Mercedes Oil Pump Design
02:14 M157 Common failures
03:48 The Fix... Benefits & Cons
06:27 Location and Procedure - Авто та транспорт
Hello to everyone. Today I did that Mod (unplug the oil solenoid valve) on my CLS 500 4-Matic with 9G-Tronic and M278 Engine. It's crazy how the car is getting alive. I'm impressed, really. I'm thankfull for this Video and all the guys on MB World.
Update from me after nearly a month. Definitely warms up quicker, haven’t reset the gearbox once and is smooth as silk, I’ve fallen in love with the car all over again. Thanks Ken 👍
Did it 4 days ago on my 2015 C17 S63, truly made the car smoother and quieter, it even seems to start in less revolutions, it idles much quieter, too.
also noticed my engine starts in less revolutions with oil pump solenoid unplugged, sometimes seemingly instantly - 2015 ML63
@@jamienz89 it may look like fail safe mode , how is acceleration?
Good thing some guy made that long thread on the forum and then was the first to try it and report back (all of the "engineering" was from the M276 application). Thanks, that guy!
Photo credits, anyone?
@@unlovedcars9208It's the most visited active thread on MBWorld W212 AMG thread "Oil pump solenoids"
As a Mercedes tech in Canada, usually when we see the code P06DA00 in the ME the fault description is “ignore and erase this code”. What usually sets this code is the little pigtail inside the oil pan going to the solenoid goes open circuit. What we are finding now is that on certain models, after a recall where the ME has to be updated, the code no longer states ignore and erase, but states there is an open circuit and it will set the check engine light. We have mainly seen this on the 4 cylinder 270 engines and hybrids. Don’t know if this is region specific but just something to aware of if you take your car in for a recall software update.
Is there any reason for me with a 2015 E63 AMG S to ever go to the dealer to have the software? Is there even a newer software update for this car or are you just referencing newer MB cars? Because it does not display a CEL for me after doing this.
Yet again you’ve covered something I was looking at as seen the Merc forums detail on this. Thank you Ken 👍
Best "tuning" Tip!
Engine feels much smoother, oil is quicker warm and gearbox shifts like new❤
DANKE aus Deutschland🇩🇪
Will do this mod ASAP, if it wasn't done previously! Thanks Ken for your effort and time doing this! You're the man! ❤
You keep on giving us the best, thank you very much ❤❤❤
Not all heros wear capes. Thanks again for your content Ken. Cant thank you enough!💪🏼
Ho ree fook! Dude!... I can't thank you enough for this vid man. I've had problems the last few weeks with the damn oil temp going up to 227-230 deg F and staying there - I thought maybe its the intercooler. I was about to start pulling it apart and looking at the hoses when I spotted this video. Well an hour later, with that little '304' disconnected, I took the beast for a spin and even in major stop start traffic where I'd usually have the problem, she only just touched 212 and then went back down to 208. Sorted!!🤩
1. Crazy that there is no oil pressure sensor on these engines. Even in the WIS the procedure is to connect an external pressure gauge at the oil filter housing.
2. The solenoid wire can be disconnected fairly easily from the top on the M276 (6 cylinder) engines, both the turbo and non-turbo cars. It does require removing the air intake duct for easier access.
3. This is well worth doing on the non-turbo M276 3.5 liter engines. The engine becomes much more responsive at the low RPM range.
4. Great video.
I can’t find this wire on my M278, I did find something at the 7 o’clock position, so maybe it just looks different
@@emanueldaggett1898did you ever try unplugging it?
I have a 2013 M278 and about to look for mine.
Just done yesterday. Definitely warms up quicker (4 deg C weather no rain) takes 5 miles of gentle driving vs 7 before. Was hoping it would be 50% quicker but sadly not. Thanks again Ken 👍
Thanks for making me aware of this "situation" and this potential fix, Kenny. I'm definitely going to look into this more now and consider the "mod."
You can never get enough lubrication. More=better. I'm doing this ASAP to mine.
I just did this today on my e63 and I can't believe what a night and day difference it is. No more surging and odd shifts at low speed. Another Easy like and share. My favorite diy channel on UA-cam keep up the killer work man.
Awesome man!
Hey brother, which model year do you have and how did you protect the plug ?
@@maddoxx6250 2014 e63. I just used some vacuum line caps that I had laying around but, you can also get dummy plugs if you google "2 pin connector" and match up the shape.
@@loganpowers1915 Thanks brother. I’ll try to find these dummy plug to keep it most OEM. German Mercedes Benz dealer are kind a sketchy 😅
@@maddoxx6250the top cam shaft sensor plugs use the same type sensor head and you can use those to plug the hole up,just cut the wires off and silicone the hole so no trash gets in. Fcp sells those harnesses, Ken made a video about these harnesses earlier in the year
Woww. What a night and day difference . I was having the rpm surge problem on my car for the longest time. Did this mod and my car runs 10x better and quieter. Shifts smoother and it fixed my rpm surge problem.
Thanks a lot
Yeah, I'm at almost 4 months with this mod, I have zero cons very happy with all the results
I did this after watching this video a month ago !! Great recommendation, I agree with you about getting to the warm up stage faster . It’s awesome.. pulls hard
Fantastic!
@@ExoticCarDIY Do you know what the long term effects of running with higher oil pressure on all the time are besides lower fuel economy?? I heard it's not safe for the car
Appreciate the video. Would just like to see long-term historical data on results before doing this. Reason: I don’t know enough about cars but will mention to my mechanic. Also reading up on MB forum. Thanks again.
I love your Enabling ILS + video, used your guide to enable it and absolutely love it. Can you make a guide on enabling Traffic Sign Assist? Would be a great feature to have in US/CAN so it adjusts speed automatically to traffic signs. Keep up the great videos!
Yes, would be great if every car had this capability and we would reduce traffic issues by those going 15 mph under and over.
Just got done doing this after watching the video. Confirmed that the silent code that pops up is the one you posted. Currently driving the car now and it definitely feels like there's more throttle response on a light acceleration from a stop. Definitely feels smoother. Thanks again!
Doing this tomorrow for sure! Thank you 😁
I have done this free mod on my e63s as well. I have 29k on mine and I noticed a diffrence on shifts, throttle input and how fast and free revving the engine feels!
As usual amazing video
Thanks again!
Well, now I know what I am doing this afternoon - sure beats putting up Xmas crap.
Thank you Kenny!! I’m finally gonna do this myself.
Great information! Great video!
Glad it was helpful!
Did my E63 amg yesterday what a difference smoother and responsive, no engine dash light and eco mode still working not that I use it 😂,, great job Kenny and tasos and amg family ❤
Do you have a part number for this?
@@2011Vagif no part brother watch the video and see how you disconnect the plug easy job from underneath the car remove the bottom engine tray and you hidden plug next to crankshaft pulley
@@MrRyman222 is that all that's done? no lights on the dash or any issues after unplugging it and cleaning?
@@2011Vagif no lights or issues in fact the car will run much better and smoother , but remember to leave it unplugged and cable tie it ok
Been reading the same forum about this, would love an update at oil change, 2,000 miles etc. especially if you find you burn more or less oil
Keep it up man, you saving us a lot of trouble, I can’t believe they would do this shit to one of the best engines in my opinion, also just to clarify, take that one plug off wrap it up and call it a day? Is it possible for the selenide to go into limp mode and it keeps itself shut which cause it to run at 2bar at all times? Also how many miles did you put on so far in the 2 weeks you’ve been driving it?
I did this and thanks for the tip, the only thing is i get check engine light, definitely not a ghost code for my 2017 GLE63S.
Yes read the latter Post in the the thread on MB world. (It's like 1100 post now, but scan through the last 5-6 pages) essentially, The people with s-classes and the few other models that do trigger a check engine light are buying a spare solenoid and they're just plugging it into the harness and zip tying it out of the way to accomplish the same thing without a check engine light.
It's probably impossible to read the whole thread unless you have a few hours lol.
I have a Stage 2 ECU tune on my M276 3.0 bi-turbo engine that was problematic before this "mod". The car would bog momentarily with light throttle use when coasting or simply maintaining speed. It would also surge slightly at slow speeds, such as below 20 mph in a neighborhood. Of course, these conditions occurred when the RPMs were below the solenoid activation speed. Since this "mod", throttle response is instantaneous with no bogging or surging.
where it is located in m276? Same as m157?
@@mattkochanowski6196 Facing the car, it's in about the 7 o'clock position to the crankshaft pulley. With the turbo version, it is slightly behind the intercooler. On the NA version, it is more visible. In both engines, I removed the passenger side air intake duct for easier access.
Hi. I have 2016 E400 stage 1 tune. Car is powerhouse. But since the tune my shifting is not that smooth. Do you think this will help? And also if I disconnect it will I have some check engine light or something? Thank you
me and a friend did this on our e63s’ and wow, what a difference. i wish i knew this sooner
Part number or what’s the part called?
Thanks for ur videos can u please do for us a video for changing the Air condition filter for the E63 M157
Man this is actually golden! I have hated the fact that my 2012 CLS 63 would take so long to rise up oil temperature. It would just bother me to see it low for so long on my dash. Plus engine is noisier until it reaches temp. I have 153k miles and want it to go 200k. No issues other that the check valves and tensioners so far. They have been replaced. Still shoots out the hole like a rocket! Thanks for this tip as well! Getting it done asap!
I love the new oil warm up time now
@@ExoticCarDIYsame with my cls63. It warms up 2 times slower than my c63. Why is that??
@@ExoticCarDIYand bro you sure messing around with the oem layout is safe in the long term? Why would mercedes make something that would make the engine run worse
@@ExoticCarDIY you get my message?
@@multiblade04 He explained why in the video.
I love you man🔥🔥🔥🔥😍👌🏻👍
Always keep engine temp on your dash .only option short of installing oil presure
I definitely keep mine showing. As soon as I spot the slightest difference and what I'm usually seeing, I'll start sweating
Just did it on my 2013 SL550 with the M278. First drive sure felt good! Seems to rev faster and runs very smoothly. Time will tell how much it improves? I disconnected it from the top, very easy!
Cool sweatshirt!
Ya man, amazing show
im going in my garage now to unplug my CL63, ill get back to you with results
I have a 2014 C250 1.8 Turbo can I unplug the oil pump solenoid on this vehicle as well and get same results
Another thing I’ll be doing to my S63AMG asap!
Thank you for sharing all this great informations with us 😊
Hey, have you try it yet? Pulled it off on my 15 S63 Coupe. It gave me CEL
@@yongkangzhou2302 Hello,
I did unplug the sensor but I haven’t driven the car yet as I don’t use it winter time. I won’t know until April time but my friend done it on his CLS63AMG and he’s happy that he done it. It revs faster/freely and he noticed a different in gear changes
@@Sam_AMGSo far S63 is the only one get CEL from this based on bmworld discussion so eager to know😂
I pulled it off my 16 e63s. And I just got a CEL after 50-60 miles 🤔
@@admirlajka9740 Mmm, that’s strange as the only two times I’ve now read this happen is here. My friend hasn’t mentioned anything since he disconnected it on his CLS63AMG and another forum member. Is the engine light on because of the sensor? Have you read the code?
Will this work in a m276tt? And how do i know if it's stuck on low pressure? If i unplug it will it go back to high pressure?
What size boot did you use?
Is the old m275 affected by this issue?
My only concern would be the cold start in the northern states with the high-pressure flow only. Yes, the engine is designed to hold high-pressure numbers, but what about the reduced flow of the oil during cold weather? That's something to be taken into perspective before cutting that sensor completely IMO.
Definitely something to be considered.
If you read Mercedes description of the oil pump in document GF18.10-P-2000A, they have a description of the cold start oil warming function of the pump.
Essentially you're right, it does start in low pressure mode for a short period of time until the Pistons warm up. Once the Pistons are warmed up, then it switches to high pressure mode regardless of RPM in order to spray the hot Pistons with oil. According to the document, the reason it does this is just to warm the oil faster.
So even in its stock function, it does run in the full pressure mode shortly after a cold start.
Correct, but also to prevent any stress on the seals due to reduced oil flow during cold temps. I would definitely see this more effective in the warmer States, but in the colder states can backfire easily on the seals part of the engine.
Job for the weekend. 😊
So, what are you going to do the remaining 47 hours and 55 minutes?
@@JettaRedIIIdrive the car
Where is the historical data on failures that have occurred in the field?
I've done this mod to mine but, where's best to plumb in an oil pressure gauge to check that the solenoid isn't already stuck in the low pressure position?
It's a big pain, I just renewed mine very temporary
mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/877669-oil-pump-solenoids-3.html#post8893140
Also, having inherited one of these, all stock driven lightly and no oil change was evidently done in over 16k miles, its driven mild to lightly, and approaching 80k mi, is there something one can pour through the engine after oil drain to clean up/desolve any carbon, etc? and what is a good oil? it has been using oem but Mobil 1 is recomnended. It is due for plugs, possibly coils, and def the 4 solinoids. How do I access that one sensor behind oil filter? looks like a pita. Thx. Happy Holidays.
I've used Liqui Moly Engine Detox before oil change with no issues. Oil i use Penrite HPR5 5W-40.
Is this ok for the m272 ?? If yes where is it??
Guess ill be doing this on my e550 soon
You did it ?
What do you think about the LED digital gage cluster? Have you thought about installing one and validate the functionality.
I've seen it, I'm totally content and happy with the factory cluster in this car
I don’t know if it’s just my w212 e63 , when the vehicle is cold the transmission shift from P to D or R they feel bad and waiting for 3 seconds to move the vehicle if i don’t stepping on the gas
Not just yours... I think they all have what seems like a ridiculously long delay when changing from P into D or R. I've wondered if this is eliminated, or at least reduced, with an ECM or trans tune.
Lol from 2nd to 1st at a stand still mine kinda lurches or feels like it.
My 2012 CLS 63 as well. 3 second to get into drive or reverse is straight up weird.
I found oil on literally all my sensors w oil on a few of the ECU pins, however no issues with the car yet. I won’t drive it until all is replaced and cleaned, but Do you guys think issues can still surface now that it’s made it to the ECU, Or would have they come up already?
I'm not sure what actually kills the ECU, but I assume it starts shorting out circuits etc as the volume of oil in the unit increases.
Would this mod also be applicable on a 2014 E550 4matic with the M278 engine?
I believe so, check out the mbworld thread
Do you know if they’re still doing the same thing on the m177 4.0L. If so how would you recommend I figure out where it’s located.
Yes I believe they are, but I don't think you can just unplug the solo night on the new ones without a check engine light, hopefully soon I'll actually have a w 213 and I will experiment with this
Would this work on bmw engines
also
I'm wondering if this solenoid is disconnected if it's all that more imperative that owners stick to more frequent oil changes...
I tend to agree with you. For me this is not an issue since I do a much shorter interval than the factory recommends. The factory is 1 year or 10k miles, regardless I will never let any of my cars go over 5000.
Synthetic oils these days are pretty good but they still get dirty, they still break down, at what point is unknown, but I don't think you can go wrong with erroring on the side of caution
Haven’t really noticed a difference. One thing that does happen. Is my oil warning light comes on, basically stating add a quart of oil. I checked the level and it’s 3/4 to the line, so not sure what the issue is.
Any feedback for this?
2012 cls 63
I would post your concerns on the mbworld thread
Anyone try this in the M272 engine (2010 e350)?
Pinned the throttle the other day at the light and cluster read “insufficient oil pressure” although I knew it had the correct amount of oil…Now I know why🤦🏻♂️disconnecting asap.
Working good so far ?
This applies to the m278?
Yo bro, is your car still tuned? I see in your old videos/comments you mentioned only TCU tuning your new e63. What you got done right now in terms of performance mods?
Stock tune, stock TCU, stock intake, aftermarket catted downpipes.
So far best draggy 0 to 60 is 3.2 and best quarter mile is 11.5 in this current setup
Can you run a catless downpipe with no tune?
@@user-px7xb9vs6lYes but your check engine light will be on
So basically turn my car off, put my car on a lift, find solenoid and unplug it? And it should fail in correct position to get full oiling across? Allegedly.
Correct.
Does the 2014 s63 amg have this solenoid?
Just got the P06DA-00 code on my 2019 C300 and the CEL is on. Should I just unplug this sensor? Mercedes want 8k to replace my oil pump, valve and harness... just don't see why they couldn't start from the harness and valve and then work their way up? I'm thinking drop the oil pan and replace the harness and valve....any thought would be appreciated.
So you got the code from an actual failure? I can't tell you what to do, but if it was my car I would verify that the oil pump is working and in normal pressure mode (not reduced pressure) with a mechanical oil pressure gauge ...to make sure you're engine is not in any danger.
If all is well, I'd get a dummy solenoid installed extremely to make to code to away. Just search the mbworld thread for info on that dummy solenoid
I took it to MB and they said the tested the harness which was good but the valve was not functioning properly. They want to replace the pump and the valve which would cost 8k$.
The car runs fine. It doesn't over heat and it starts without a problem. It doesn't make sense to spend 8k on the oil pump when the valve and harness is known to be at fault for this code. I figure you starts small and work your way up where MB wants to just replace everything.
What exactlt did yoy use to cover the connector? Like what should I go tot he stoee and buy exactly?
I had the same question and used some cable top covers for now.
I also ordered some 2 pin connector dummy’s.
@@maddoxx6250 I used some heat shrink conduit we use at my work then zip ties it to the ribbed conduit by the plug out of the way.
Why ur door is not locked
Does this also apply to the m278 biturbo engines too ?? Please reply 🙏🏾🙏🏾
Yes, check out the mbworld thread before proceeding
@@ExoticCarDIY thank Goodness I’m getting the leaks on my e550 coupe changed the camshaft sensors this is the second time I’m changing it and I heard it’s gonna affect the ECU as well very well
Then thanks for saving us here
Anyone else have trouble pulling the plug out after popping the tab? I spent 30 minutes fighting with it before i tried to pull back on the tab some more, only to pull the tab all the way out. Still can't get the plug out after an hour struggle. Am i missing something? 2012 W212 pre-facelift, M157.
carfull, some people have pulled and twsted and ended up breaking it off. TIP, its the exact same plug as the cam sensors up top (see cam sensor video) practice on those, then try the solenoid. I push the plug in to relieve any clip tension, then gentle use a pick to lift on the tab and it come right off
@@ExoticCarDIY Thanks for the tip. I did practice on the cam sensor clip and was able to get my pick behind the plug and lift up the tab, popped right off. Victory! Definitely noticed better throttle response, much reduced or non-existent lurching upon takeoff, and better shifting. Can't wait to drive it under more conditions. Thanks again!
I tried this last night and it definitely warms up quicker and was great for the first few minutes but the next morning I started it up and got a check engine like does anyone know how to get rid of it. My car is a 2016 c217 s63
Yeah unfortunately the s-class and I think the GLS throw check engine lights. According to the MB world thread, what people do is just order a spare solenoid, and plug it in and then just zip tie it out of the way. That way the computer thinks it's functioning fine
@@ExoticCarDIY awesome I just got the car and I’m new to the forums so thank you very much for the info I’ll order one from FCP and see how it goes, I hate to just throw away $85 but it seems like my car will be better off in the long run so might as well.
With the car off I assumed When you unplug it? Is it in high pressure already ?
The resting state is normal pressure. The solenoid must be energized to enter low pressure mode.
So what about the inlet plug sitting open on the engine what if oil gets into that or just gunks over it, is that bad ?
I do think it's wise to cover both the plug and the receptacle with the rubber boot. In the description there is a link to the rubber boots that I've used, although there's a many different things that will work to protect them.
Others have a dummy harness, typically used for the camshaft position sensors, except for they cut the dummy harness so there's no connection, essentially they're just using it to protect it from the elements
@exoticcardiy - are there any issues if you unplugged the oil sensor and then days later, plug it back in?
Days later, probably not. Weeks or months later, yes. If the valve has not circulated oil for a while there a chance for piston particulate (carbon or aluminum) to have accumulated in the solenoid gallery ready to get forced in. Then you'll get a stuck solenoid in the low pressure position and risk damaging your engine.
@@AnontheGOAT thanks that is very helpful. I am torn between wanting to try this mod for the several good reasons discussed (better oil/lubrication and better pedal / acceleration at low rps) and having concern that this is a $30-40K motor when new and if you destroy a rod or piston or cylinder then you're in deep trouble needing to replace a motor of that cost on a car that has depreciated to 30-50K max
@@jvakos You won’t destroy your engine by unplugging it. There’s really zero downside at this point. It’s a stupid “eco friendly” feature that’s killing engines because of a terrible design.
@@AnontheGOAT ok good to know thanks ill give this a try!
@@jvakoshow do you like it?
Is there a way to code it out after unplugged? Like with a special scanner. Im here in cali and cant have any check engine light. I mean i could just plug it back in and pass emission and unplug after but wanted to know if it can be code it out.
I looked in xentry, vediamo and Monaco and couldn't find a setting for the oil. It's possible a tuner could.
However, the code cannot be read with any OBD2 readers, only with Mercedes diagnostic tools like xentry
@@ExoticCarDIY So the smog tech will not see the code on there scanner? It will not have a check light on?
@@boyb72 correct
@@ExoticCarDIY Yesterday I unplugged it and ran diagnostics with Snap on scanner and it reads the code. Will try with Autel scaner as well, to see if it reads this "internal" code
Interesting video. Wondering if this applies to my E400 engine. My E400 is a 2016 with only 35K miles. As you can tell I don’t do much driving. But your video really got me thinking. Thanks
According to the forum, this applies to pretty much every Mercedes vehicle, you can check out the thread, to see what people have already done it to their cars
@@ExoticCarDIY alot of good data at the MB forum. I need to find out what type of engine I have in my 2016 E400 non 4matic. Don't know if its a M276 or what.
@@joea1746M276. This was the original engine where the research was done.
This past weekend I was seriously contemplating doing the oil pump solenoid disconnect mod on my 2016 E400. Although the data provided and what I read on the MB forum seems very solid. However, I am still a bit skeptical about doing the mod because I've had my E 400 since 2016 when I got it new, and the car's been running beautifully. It's been going through its normal maintenance at the Mercedes dealership. And I also have the oil for life, and I don't drive my car hard. Like you mention with any mods dealing with the oil of the engine, it must be done with caution. It would probably be okay if I disconnect the oil pump solenoid. But I still need to see more testimonials other Mercedes owners that have done this mod on their vehicles before I make a final decision.
@@joea1746 I would go for it. The original research was in the M276 (which is what you have). The results are well documented. We AMG people are late to the party.
I will try this on my 2014 Cls63s and get back to you guys, I’m annoyed that it takes 25 minutes to get to temp. Also shifting weirdly and not feeling the power properly.
My commute to work is 30min all 55-60mph... On any day under like 45*,: my car would never get up to temp.
Now the oil gets to 170f in about 10min even if I'm diving like a grandma.
That’s awesome I’ve been dealing with the car heating up to temps, it takes 30 minutes for my car to leave the blue oil temp. And also my throttle isn’t as responsive.
@@ExoticCarDIYinteresting. I didn’t do it to my car and it gets up to temp pretty fast. On cold days 15 minutes
Where did you hook it up to check oil pressure
There's a port near the bottom of the oil filter housing, 6mm Allen plug. It's hard to get to. You'll need a auto meter 2277 adapter to hook it up to a normal mechanical gauge amzn.to/3vU39ua
Where the hell do you find a dust boot like that. I’ve been searching everywhere and no one has anything like this.
Here ya go amzn.to/3zYNpaU
Would this work on the m278 engine - CLS500 2015??
That would be also my question..??? Can anyone reply?
@@slowbee236_ Just did this on my 2013 sl550 m278. Easy mod, did it from the top, engine is running fantastic!
This is true for the 2015 S63 AMG with the M157 motor? 5.5 V8 BITURBO ?
Yes, but according to the MBworld thread, the s class with throw a check engine light. There is a work around, people are buying a spare solenoid, unplugging the actual engine one and then plugging the harness into the extra one to fill the car.
@@ExoticCarDIY thank you, as my S63 gets up there mileage wise...i think it would be safe to just maintain max oil pressure..especially during cold starts!! where do you recommend getting an extra solenoid to avoid the check engine light? the S class doesnt like when ANYTHING is not in normal operating condition...solid car but very finniky at the same time.
@@SoCal-AMG quite a bit of discussion on it in the thread. basically people are buying the solenoid from like Alibaba and unplugging theirs and plugging it into the cheap replacement externally zip tied safely away from the belt. no code, 100% normal oil pressure all the time. many many posts, heres one 1199 mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/877669-oil-pump-solenoids-12.html#post8937576
Is this same procedure on m278?
Just disconnected mine on my m278. Easy, did it from the top, zip tied harness to a line is necessary as its just left if the crank pulley.
there is also a timing cover gasket that causes oil and water to mix. that's whats going on with my e63 at the moment.
What year is your M157, and how many miles are on it?
@@roberttischler7721 150k. I didn’t experience it with my ML63 with over 210k
Hello everyone
- VVT shows zero degree on data stream during idle
- if u have V shaped engine then each of ur VVT must show zero degree during idle
- if one of selenoid shows other than zero degree then u may check it by changing locations between two of them of V shaped engines n check the degree during idle
- if u have bad selenoid then ur car stalls
- the reason of stalling may be broken VVT or polluted selenoid n increased resistance
- if u activate selenoid during idle by scanner then ur car must stalls in case of good selenoid
- u may activate selenoid after removing it n make visual inspection of its working condition
- resistance of selenoid must be no more than 15 Ohm, if higher or endless then throw it away (R< 15 ohm)
- don’t forget that the reason of illuminating light may be chamshaft actuator
Araza, VVT will never show zero degree during idle. Your scanner must be defective or not MB compatible. Based on M276.820 3.0 Turbo of an E400 of 2014 . From cold idle ( ambient temp 30C ), EXHAUST VVT where when engine OFF position is -25 degrees will slowly upon engine start for about 120 seconds goes to -5 degrees. When engine warmed up enough Exhaust VVT will settle to - 23 to -25 degrees again. The INTAKE will be relatively stable at +33 degrees during the same time period. I am using Xentry.
@@suryaprihadi2258 yo my boy
did u reply basing on what u faced or that u educated ?
@@arazaliguliyev Didn't you read I am using Xentry to read those data I speak of ? Xentry is MB OE scanner.
Can’t find this on my M278, any ideas?
Just to the left and a little lower than the crank pulley. You can see the plug from the top.
Any feedback after unplugging it for several months now? Any issues?
Zero issues. I was curious high summer temperatures would affect it, I have noticed slightly higher oil temperatures, but it makes sense why.
Arguably, the Pistons get the most heat, they are cooled with oil. If you're not spraying them with oil, there's nothing cooling them. Obviously if you're spraying them with jets of oil, it will remove the heat from the Pistons and transfer it to the oil which then gets transferred to the air via the oil cooler.
@@ExoticCarDIY sounds good ill do this to my e63 as well
Bro, for real this may have been the entire issue with the cylinder walls scoring the entire time! How can the factory programming cope with a tune on the M157?! It can't... It's very likely something that tuners overlooked and even on stock cars it's barely able to keep the engine protected.
Still doesn’t solve the bent rod issue with the M157
@@carmelothegoat1892 That's not a common issue and you usually see that with engines that were str8 gang banged.
@@autolife4180 I’ve been researching the m157 as next potential car and a lot of forums I see that stock/tuned M157s having bent rods after misfires and if it’s that easy to bend rods than I’d rather go M156 or M177. That’s without mentioning the scored cylinder walls as you mentioned.
@@carmelothegoat1892 It's debatable whether or not that bending rods and cylinders being scored are as bad as they are made out. I suspect that a lot of that comes from poor and lacking maintenance. But then again I've seen scored cylinders coming from the occasional M157 due to the stupid design by Mercedes Benz putting very soft material there as opposed to the much better quality cylinder lining of the M276 nano coated cylinders. Those engines are remarkablely durable.
@@autolife4180 Its not debatable at all. Its partly caused by this oiling issue but also by injector wear and leaks. Nothing will destroy an alusil cylinder quicker than fuel bore washing it, lack of oil or a straight up mechanical failure IE a bent rod or other intrusion. Bent rods on m157 is because the rods arent strong enough simple as that. Its totally nothing to do with oiling or anything else non tune related because bore scoring from a bent rod will be inline with the crank and wrist pin. Bore scoring from fuel or oiling issue will be 90degrees from that. Tasos has practically hundreds of videos proving bent rods is because of the factory rods (the soft alusil bore material isnt ideal either but not the main cause its clearly bent rods in those cases). He proves this by putting aftermarket rods and usually sleeves in and the engines are near bulletproof thereafter (or as good as these can be without additional mods). I suspect he also knows how to look for bad injectors as theres also a couple of vids about that.
Any updates on how the car is doing this mod Ken?
It blew up.
Haha, kidding aside, runs great, I haven't had any issues, I've been keeping up with the thread testing MBworld, there been no reported issues, quite a few people sent their oil off to Blackstone labs for oil important and came back with a clean bill of health.
My friend is a Mercedes tech, and apparently this video starts circulating around there private group, I thought they would blast it, but to my surprise pretty much everybody was very positive. Granted all this has been done in the winter, I do want to pay attention to everything in the summer with a higher temps
Thanks for the info! Good to know. Keep us posted
The bent rods is caused by the rods being too weak simple as that m278's run the same rod and rarely get bent rods unless heavily modified... m157 bend rods on stock boost completely stock!! There are also reliable rumours the rods are bent a tiny amount from the factory and then when hammered on they bend more... either way the end result is the same a destroyed engine. Bore scrapping is usually either bent rods or usually bad/worn injectors bore washing the bores of oil hence the scrapping. Its obvious if its bent rods because the bore scraping will be on the same centreline as the wristpin or crank when you bore scope it. Whereas the bore washing via injectors will be 90 degrees to that. This oil pressure thing could contribute but its not the main cause imo. In short check your injectors for leaks and wear. And I wouldnt personally even bother owning a m157 because even stock they can bend rods. The rods need to be swapped out for aftermarket and run new injectors, do this solenoid mod and "touchwood" it should be reliable. So I think you should remove the comments about bent rods as thats clearly not caused by this issue but the information about the solenoid is bang on. The older non turbo v8 cayennes had bore scrapping which was also mainly caused by lack of piston oil squirters and old injectors compared to the turbo versions.
Bent rods are one thing, but a lot of these M157 engines have experienced just bore scoring. So more lubrication NEVER hurts.
@@AnontheGOAT As he said in the video most people are tuned that have issue but not all. So its either bent rods scrapping the bore in line with crank or its lack or oil or bad injectors leaking or bad spray patterns washing the bores on the plane (the larger skirt area on that face also contributes) opposite the crank line which again would be more prevalent on tuned cars for obvious reasons. I suspect it could be 50/50 with the m157 because of the rods. With m278 it will be mostly bore scrapping due to bore wash from the injectors or lack of oil from the piston squirters or both. I just did this solenoid mod on my s550 BTW so I agree with that. Next I will be checking my injectors and then just hoping for the best as thats about all you can do.
@@austingtir um but that’s not what you said in your OP “m157 bend rods on stock boost completely stock”
@@AnontheGOAT Yeah because thats a fact. Cant you read or something in the last post I said "MOST". Thats repeating what the guy in the vid said which is also correct. Most m157 bend rods tuned. Some bend them stock. If thats the clarification your looking for. All im saying is I dont know why he even mentioned bent rods going with the oiling issue its literally nothing to do with it. Bent rods is purely mechanical failure because the rods ARENT STRONG ENOUGH in the m157 application. And because of that some people blame bore score on an oiling issue when its the rods being bent and vice versa when I just described how easy it is to tell the two failures apart. Bore scoring because of oil/injector leaks and bore score because of bent rods are two completely different things thats what im empasizing here and m157 owners in particular need to understand the difference. Because you can simply stick a bore scope camera down there and tell almost staight away why the engine failed or was misfiring.
@@austingtir I hear you but I don’t agree with sticking a bore scope in to determine whether or not the rods are bent. You can’t see them from the top end.
Will it work and is this the same plug on 4.7 bi turbo ?
Wondering this too
@@Withachiri I did it on mine already I can’t tell the difference .
@@chuemoua6834still got it off? What have you experienced so far? Debating whether to do it in mine. 14 E550 4matic
@@fps197 I don’t see any difference but logically it’s better for the engine . I did massive research not just on these engine but overall in other engine with the same setup . This isn’t a Mercedes thing , it’s standard on a lot of cars that uses a two stage oil pump .
Is everything still OK with your car? Any negatives?
No negatives. I still think it's wise to verify it with a mechanical oil pressure gauge
@@ExoticCarDIY great stuff thank you!! Is that something you could do for us m157 owners 😁😉 a little video just telling us of your experience and stuff please?
Is it ok to do this on a tuned car? I’m assuming it’s beneficial either way…
Many people have done this to their tuned cars.
@@ExoticCarDIY awesome. Thanks for the quick feedback!
Any word about this in summer?
It's starting to get hot here in Florida come at the last 2 weeks have been in the upper 80s.
I'm definitely curious how this works in the summer so far everything seems to be normal.
One thing you will notice is slightly higher oil temps which makes sense if you're actually think about what's going on.
The oil is the cooling fluid for the inside of the motor especially the rotating assembly.
With the solenoid completely stock, your pistons for example, would be completely left uncooled until you exceed 3500 RPM and then they will get a spike cooling.
With the solenoid mod, they are always getting sprayed, which is transferring heat from the Pistons to your oil which then goes through a radiator my oil temps do fluctuate, when driving around moderately, you will see an extra 10° or so on your oil temps.
In my opinion this is 100% benefit, I'd rather this Pistons be kept nice and cool
@@ExoticCarDIYheck yeah that makes sense, shouldn’t be ragging on these in summer anyways until it’s night time LOL. I think I’m definitely giving this a try
Does this apply to an E550?
Yup, e250 e350 e400 e500 e63 etc. More info in the threads
@@ExoticCarDIY friiiiick.... Good lookin out dude much love
Amazing. I’ll be doing this on my vehicle asap
Did you find where this is on an M278 engine?
Just done this on my gle63s.
How do you like it?
Did you get a check engine light BC my 2017 GLE63S
@@Phuong_Nguyen_great seems to be going well so far.
@@MadhouseDeveloperGroup-wd6md hey no check engine light. I may eventually do the dummy plug but seems to be fine for now.
@@PoonFlavoredTang you just wrapped it up to protect it?
Kind request, please can you do a video on a complete transmission fluid change on the E63!
Yes! I am wanting this too. I need to change my transmission oil
U know what Ken? forget the beastly E63, start modding the w212 E400 m276 engine pleaseeeeeee, i wanna see what potential it has, am beggin ya 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
So Ken are you within a 1.5 hr drive of 32835?
4hrs
@@ExoticCarDIYGeez are in GA or SC?? Must be near Tallahassee or one of the other states. Anything to turn off or disable to jack up the front end to do oil?
@@08turboSS Why, all the pine trees? ha, good eye. Just jack it up safely, theres 8, 8mm screws to remove the splash shield. then use a pick to pull the safety lock on the clip and gently unplug by squeezing it. a few people reported breaking it. careful
Anyone know if this solenoid plug is present on the 4.7 twin turbo GL550's? I have a 2013 and am so packed with life events that id like to know ahead of time.
it is. just did it on my cls550
Not sure if :
1. constant 4b pressure will not lead to more oil leaking problems in future?
2. heat exchanger will handle more hot oil in summer time?
3. more pressure- more chance to interior oil/antifreeze mixing, oil in harness?
4. more wear on oil pump ( this is actually reason #1 leading to oil starvation in M157, not 2b pressure)
I hope I am wrong.
All good concerns, many of these have been discussed in length on the thread.
1&3 No. Remember where oil is being pumped, it's being pumped through oil galleys primarily into bearing surfaces. Like the crank journals and Rod journals. That's where the pressure is being increased at, in no way could this result in leaking through gaskets or sensors. Every place where there is a gasket/sensor, like valve covers oil pan etc, it's simply exposed to oil drain back at ambient pressures, there is no increased pressures on the gasket surfaces.
2&4. Let's use the scenario for example. You go to a track day, and as your car was designed to do, you subject your car to several hours all above 3, 500 RPM. In this scenario, it does not matter at all if you have the solenoid mod done or not, the pump and engine are all going to 100% function the same either way since both scenarios would be in normal pressure mode. Thus, I think it's safe to assume that Mercedes designed both the pump and the oil cooler to be sufficient and not set up to fail in this scenario.
If you really just try to understand the design, it's not low and high pressure that we're being forced to run in high pressure all the time, it's normal pressure and reduction for fuel efficiency during idling, coasting and cruising.
So unplugging the solenoid only changes anything if you're idling coasting or cruising. Otherwise everything is exactly the same and subjected to the exact same forces and wear
Thank you Ken for making that clear.
I am In Florida and thinking to do it on my 2013 G63 in summer, so in case if oil temp goes too high, will plug it back next day.@@ExoticCarDIY
@@ExoticCarDIYHey Ken, have you ever dealt with a connector snapping and leaving the hole exposed ? Mine snapped and now I have an open hole in the cover with the two wires inside. Can I just plug the hole and everything will be ok ? Any concerns about wires being inside the cover on engine inside ? Thank you