@@TheHandsOnChannel 6500 IS high. My guess is the guy didnt want the work that bad. And your right about a core drill. Those saws are messy as Hell! Wish I could'a walked you thru that one. A flare fitting into mechanical joints/threads would have been the way. A flaring swedge is easy and cheap. Just pound them in wit a hammer. No soldering! And it's a code approved practice.
One more thing… people, if you’re looking for Christmas ideas for college aged boys; get them tools. Garage sale tools for Christmas from aunts and uncles were a blessing when I was a first time homebuyer. It’s a super thoughtful gift that you won’t realize until you need them
Great job. Had to do the same thing 3.5 feet deep PVC service to PEX. Dug in a crawlspace under the foundation, no fun. Ordered a long flex drill bit and fed the PEX direct contact, which I hope is okay. For future access, cut some plastic culvert sections two sizes and foam insulated between with a cut off valve on the PEX side. SharkBite does have a waterproof wrap for transitions, yet I I did not use it, and only used their clamped product. Thankful it was not Winter!
Use Type K copper for everything if you can afford it. That's the way the home builders did it back in the day .. they used the best copper pipe from the 50's thru the 70's in my experience. Type K is the thickest side wall. Then you have copper pipe types L and M which are thinner side wall used for branch lines. You also have the option of using Pex. PEX is immune to corrosion and mineral build-up, and it's not affected by electrolysis, which can cause small pinhole leaks in copper piping. The lye in the concrete can also cause corrosion when copper is in direct contact with it which is why the copper pipe should have a rubberized tape wrapped around if it's in contact with cement.. same goes for any pipe, black and galvanized. Also, make sure that the water heater Magnesium Anode rod is good. Water heaters need to be flushed yearly to prevent major decay of the anode which in turn will prolong the life of your water heater and all the Hot water lines in your building.
Those sds Diablo bits don't need any lube for cutting thru rebar. They are diamond carbide tipped. I don't even step up the bits. No pilot hole. Just go straight to the 1-1/8" bit, get yer angle right and drill baby drill. Blowing out the dust in deep vertical holes periodically with air is best. It prevents the bit from binding or getting stuck. You'll also find that using higher quality hammer drills with more power like a Bosch do the trick much better and faster, if you do this for living :) In your case it's o.k to use a 1 time use Chyna tool. Plummer's are way over paid in most cases ! The only time i ever used soft copper is when i was installing a 1/4" feed line to refrigerator for a water/ ice dispenser. Soft copper should never be used for a water main. Those red tubing cutters are a no no for pvc even though that's what's they're advertised for use. The reason why is that they put to much pressure on the pipe when they cut and will put a hairline crack in the pipe. Eventually the pipe will break or leak at the glued joint. Always use a hacksaw or a cut off wheel on pvc. For Pex it's o.k. Oh, and just back fill the hole before it rains with 5000 psi concrete and call it a day/lifetime :) Now go take a hot shower ! You deserve it
Mine still froze while dripping that week of this past winter when it got down to around -15 overnight multiple nights. Didn't damage my water line though, Thank God 😅
I hear that pex is a lot more forgiving to freezing, but I still don't like it overhead. If I build another house on a slab it will have to have pvc floor chases going to every place I need water. That way I can just pull a new line if I ever need to.
I went through this same thing you're going through about 5 years ago but I do have a crawl space man I mean pinholes kept popping up everywhere in the plumbing all of the sudden and that was on the old black roll pipe and even the ice maker developed holes 3x in it it was like a the grimlins was going around poking at the water lines with an ice pic then after I finally got all the leaks fixed in the the house and the wellhouse the main line to the well house start developing pinholes I've never seen anything like that on the black roll pipe before then I noticed that the bottom of the kitchen cabinet in front of the sink was swelling up and damp to the touch and I looked under the sink I saw that the P trap was all the way broken in half and shifted off to the side and now it's starting to show signs of water damage from water ricocheting up under the seal off of a concrete porch slab pull your hair out just don't stop man my garage floor has an old Corvair motor buried under the slab
Sharkbites are fine. It's funny to hear some plumbers say not to use them. The reason they say that is because they want to make $6500 off of you. I had a plumber 20 years ago put a SharkBite (first time I've seen them) on a pipe leaking under my slab and its still fine. I have since used them numerous times and no issues. Including behind walls. Having said that, the off-brand knockoffs I have tried, and they never worked.
They might be fine, but I'm old school enough that I just don't trust them underground. They claim a properly sweated joint will last 50 years and I noticed sharkbite offers 25 year warranty.
You needed to pack the pipe with a piece of white bread to stop the water. When sweating you can't have any water in the pipe. Once it is done when you turn the water on the bread will desolve and come out the faucet.
That's the problem with not doing plumbing very often, you forget all of those tricks. I saw a plumber do that years ago but didn't think of it until I read the comments. Great tip, Thanks Jason!
Trying to solder copper with any water in it is tough...usually end up with a cold joint that will weep. I doubt that soft copper is "code" these days for any kind of underground placement. Good on you getting it done and saving the $$$$$.
When it comes to plumbing I declare soft copper my arch nemesis. I must have had some water seeping down because I did get some steam a couple of times. But I did the same procedure with the copper fitting and got it first try, kinda strange.
Sometimes that copper can be a bear to sweat if there's the slightest little bit of water in the pipe it'll make Steam and cool your pipes to where they can't get up to temp to sweat I've had to use the bread trick alot were you stuff the bread up the pipe and it gives you time to get the pipes dry and make your sweat joint before the bread gives it up and turns to smush
Oh dang, I forgot all about the old bread trick. I remember seeing a plumber do just that years ago. Ugh, that probably would've saved me hours of work. Great tip for anyone reading this, Thanks Mark!
I plan to, just not now. I'm buried in projects at the moment. Oh and the other half of my house is separated by a vaulted ceiling, so that's not gonna be fun.
I've been a Plumber all my working life. 40 years now.
You did OK, HO.
Good Job!
Thanks 👍
@@TheHandsOnChannel
6500 IS high. My guess is the guy didnt want the work that bad. And your right about a core drill. Those saws are messy as Hell!
Wish I could'a walked you thru that one. A flare fitting into mechanical joints/threads would have been the way. A flaring swedge is easy and cheap. Just pound them in wit a hammer. No soldering!
And it's a code approved practice.
make sure you mark the junction box for well water main / power for the next home owner
One more thing… people, if you’re looking for Christmas ideas for college aged boys; get them tools. Garage sale tools for Christmas from aunts and uncles were a blessing when I was a first time homebuyer. It’s a super thoughtful gift that you won’t realize until you need them
Great tip! That's how I got most of my tools.
Great job. Had to do the same thing 3.5 feet deep PVC service to PEX. Dug in a crawlspace under the foundation, no fun. Ordered a long flex drill bit and fed the PEX direct contact, which I hope is okay. For future access, cut some plastic culvert sections two sizes and foam insulated between with a cut off valve on the PEX side. SharkBite does have a waterproof wrap for transitions, yet I I did not use it, and only used their clamped product. Thankful it was not Winter!
What a good feelin to turn that water back on and no leaks!
Awesome job 👏, i still haven't filed mine yet either. Good luck 🤞
Use Type K copper for everything if you can afford it. That's the way the home builders did it back in the day .. they used the best copper pipe from the 50's thru the 70's in my experience. Type K is the thickest side wall. Then you have copper pipe types L and M which are thinner side wall used for branch lines. You also have the option of using Pex. PEX is immune to corrosion and mineral build-up, and it's not affected by electrolysis, which can cause small pinhole leaks in copper piping. The lye in the concrete can also cause corrosion when copper is in direct contact with it which is why the copper pipe should have a rubberized tape wrapped around if it's in contact with cement.. same goes for any pipe, black and galvanized. Also, make sure that the water heater Magnesium Anode rod is good. Water heaters need to be flushed yearly to prevent major decay of the anode which in turn will prolong the life of your water heater and all the Hot water lines in your building.
Those sds Diablo bits don't need any lube for cutting thru rebar. They are diamond carbide tipped. I don't even step up the bits. No pilot hole. Just go straight to the 1-1/8" bit, get yer angle right and drill baby drill. Blowing out the dust in deep vertical holes periodically with air is best. It prevents the bit from binding or getting stuck. You'll also find that using higher quality hammer drills with more power like a Bosch do the trick much better and faster, if you do this for living :) In your case it's o.k to use a 1 time use Chyna tool. Plummer's are way over paid in most cases ! The only time i ever used soft copper is when i was installing a 1/4" feed line to refrigerator for a water/ ice dispenser. Soft copper should never be used for a water main. Those red tubing cutters are a no no for pvc even though that's what's they're advertised for use. The reason why is that they put to much pressure on the pipe when they cut and will put a hairline crack in the pipe. Eventually the pipe will break or leak at the glued joint. Always use a hacksaw or a cut off wheel on pvc. For Pex it's o.k. Oh, and just back fill the hole before it rains with 5000 psi concrete and call it a day/lifetime :) Now go take a hot shower ! You deserve it
Good advise, thanks!
I can do a lot of things but plumbing is NOT one of them! 😂 good luck with your project! Saving a ton of money!
I feel the same way as you. Good job and you got some good tools for the future.
Mine still froze while dripping that week of this past winter when it got down to around -15 overnight multiple nights. Didn't damage my water line though, Thank God 😅
I hear that pex is a lot more forgiving to freezing, but I still don't like it overhead. If I build another house on a slab it will have to have pvc floor chases going to every place I need water. That way I can just pull a new line if I ever need to.
I went through this same thing you're going through about 5 years ago but I do have a crawl space man I mean pinholes kept popping up everywhere in the plumbing all of the sudden and that was on the old black roll pipe and even the ice maker developed holes 3x in it it was like a the grimlins was going around poking at the water lines with an ice pic then after I finally got all the leaks fixed in the the house and the wellhouse the main line to the well house start developing pinholes I've never seen anything like that on the black roll pipe before then I noticed that the bottom of the kitchen cabinet in front of the sink was swelling up and damp to the touch and I looked under the sink I saw that the P trap was all the way broken in half and shifted off to the side and now it's starting to show signs of water damage from water ricocheting up under the seal off of a concrete porch slab pull your hair out just don't stop man my garage floor has an old Corvair motor buried under the slab
Yeah you get to feeling like Wile E. Coyote plugging the holes in the dam. Fix one and two more pop up, lol. I guess it keeps life interesting.
Sharkbites are fine. It's funny to hear some plumbers say not to use them. The reason they say that is because they want to make $6500 off of you. I had a plumber 20 years ago put a SharkBite (first time I've seen them) on a pipe leaking under my slab and its still fine. I have since used them numerous times and no issues. Including behind walls. Having said that, the off-brand knockoffs I have tried, and they never worked.
They might be fine, but I'm old school enough that I just don't trust them underground. They claim a properly sweated joint will last 50 years and I noticed sharkbite offers 25 year warranty.
You needed to pack the pipe with a piece of white bread to stop the water. When sweating you can't have any water in the pipe. Once it is done when you turn the water on the bread will desolve and come out the faucet.
That's the problem with not doing plumbing very often, you forget all of those tricks. I saw a plumber do that years ago but didn't think of it until I read the comments. Great tip, Thanks Jason!
I probably wouldn't go back and fix the drywall. I'd make a little wooden access panel for future access.
Great idea, thanks!
Trying to solder copper with any water in it is tough...usually end up with a cold joint that will weep. I doubt that soft copper is "code" these days for any kind of underground placement. Good on you getting it done and saving the $$$$$.
When it comes to plumbing I declare soft copper my arch nemesis. I must have had some water seeping down because I did get some steam a couple of times. But I did the same procedure with the copper fitting and got it first try, kinda strange.
🇦🇺😎👍Great videos brother 🏁
Thanks 👍
Kudos man
Sometimes that copper can be a bear to sweat if there's the slightest little bit of water in the pipe it'll make Steam and cool your pipes to where they can't get up to temp to sweat I've had to use the bread trick alot were you stuff the bread up the pipe and it gives you time to get the pipes dry and make your sweat joint before the bread gives it up and turns to smush
Oh dang, I forgot all about the old bread trick. I remember seeing a plumber do just that years ago. Ugh, that probably would've saved me hours of work. Great tip for anyone reading this, Thanks Mark!
I would have gotten rid of all the copper and done it all with PEX
I plan to, just not now. I'm buried in projects at the moment. Oh and the other half of my house is separated by a vaulted ceiling, so that's not gonna be fun.