This is exactly what I needed to see. This and the video prior! I have had that same carb laying around and I’m in the process of completely restoring a 1978 evinrude 35hp. I got the motor for $80 bucks. Everything on the power head electrical wise was all gone. So I’ve decided I’m going as basic as it gets. Tiller handle, removed all of the wiring that I don’t need. Just the stator and the power pack. I can’t wait to see how this carb does! Thanks for the informative video!!!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I'm finally going to test run this thing this weekend if all goes to plan. I've never had an outboard sit for so long..... Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I got a dirty horse I need you to do that too for me if it all tests out good On the boat.. I'll sponsor your video add whatever you need I'll be up ther in October
I do the same thing submerge them in water to go easy on the neighbors and even yourself when they run like shit they are a real annoyance and too loud if you do it often. I use the muffs and flush attachments for short runs only now and then on dialed in motors at idle mostly....You got to love the compatibility & easy swap & exchange of OMC parts from many different years makes it relatively easy to obtain them and fix them. Good Video.. TOBT62!
On these 20-25-30-35 motors a silicone sealer or Permatex II bead should be laid down on the round surface (where the drive shaft comes up through) in order to seal around the bottom bearing on the powerhead. This is done just before the powerhead is set down on the mid-section. It is to keep water away from the lower crank bearing. By the time you get everything hooked up the sealer will be dry enough to start the motor. If you swap powerheads during this project, it would be nice if you show everyone how this is done. Thanks for another great video. Love it.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 It's from the OMC service manual (1988) in the section under powerhead installation. We did it faithfully when I was flipping wrenches at the dealership. The shop foreman demanded it.
Yep she will haul a$$ and it’s going to use a lot more for sure.Found that out when converting from 20hp to30hp.But we always need for power.lol. Want to do the tiller conversion on my franken motor also, but will have to get an old gear driven tiller..
Stater went out on my 1989 Evinrude but that don’t explain why it want run wide open. Most likely the carb I reckon. Great videos by the way. Cold beer and sitting on the porch watching you fix these motors is a nice way to pass the time
I love how its so easy to swap parts between all of these models. Makes me wonder if I re-jeted my 48 spl, if it would squeeze any performance gain out of it. Then I just need to afford some gas to power it. Lol. Catch you in the next one!
Hey Guy...Next time you are adjusting the timing, rollers and the timing marks, would you please do a close up when doing that procedure. I have a 20hp 1970 Johnson that i need to adjust......Thanks a lot!!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Sure, meanwhile this video comes to mind. It might help! Thanks again & Stay tuned ! ua-cam.com/video/h6toVGTqvks/v-deo.html
This series ,when mentioning to tiller it out reminded me of what I ran into when messing with the 2003 and wanting to swap steering brackets due to it having lots of rust and broke parts on swivel/tilt assy..Without pulling power head I just wanted to use the swivel assy from a 1977 rope start but the the steering/swivel bracket and tube were beefed up on the electric start version and I couldn’t just slide tube in.Don’t remember if you ever tried this or mentioned it in any videos.?
Hey. Yeah I did it with the 83 Evinrude 25. I never knew it was that easy. I was looking at it one day and thought if I loosen the mounts it should slide right out, and it did! But they were close in years. After I swapped them out for the lighter mount, I decided to go with the heavier long shaft mount so I swapped them back. I also had to cut the shift shaft to make it a shorty. Then I put the 35hp carb on it. My favorite Outboard ! You still my be able to swap it if the bolt pattern is the same. I think it was 4 bolts that hold the bracket on the shaft. Check the schematics! LMK! thx
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 yes,I remember that video and you just used the existing steering brackets and I thought I could do it but because I wanted to use the electric start steering bracket(which I didn’t realize was different and beefed up)with a 1977 35hp rope start swivel bracket.There is a stub on the bottom of steering bracket(for strength) of electric start I ended up cracking and broke it off and filed down where I broke it off bracket and bolted the 1977 tube to it and was able to just slide tube down into its original 1977 swivel bracket,if that makes sense.My mistake for thinking they were the same brackets,but once I cracked it figured why not make it work.People add electric start all the time to non electric start all the time.
Mentioned swapping a '94 30hp powerhead on my '06 25hp outboard. I tossed the 30hp carb, used the 25 on the 30 intake. Those extra very small lines, I deleted by using the 25 fuel pump and pump plate, ran the tiny hose from one fitting to the other by-passing the fuel system. My opinion on the one that ran from the primer line to the bottom of the block-a luber for the lower bearing???? My cam roller touches the cam plate at idle, exactly on the right bump, just as the carb throat plate begins to move the roller is exactly between the bumps, but from that moment on the roller never touches the cam plate. Works fine, but wrong??? I also had to switch from a 6 gal fuel to a 12 gal because of the distance I use this bay skiff traveling. I also added a 30 gal tank for bait traps yesterday, was running a solid 31 mph before, still running 30, bumping 31 off and on for a moment.
Hey. Yeah there's a separate "luber" line or oiler line I call it. It comes up from the bottom and pushes oil to the top crank bearing. The bottom bearing gets lubed without any lines because its at the bottom. The line from the primer goes straight to the intake and carb top nipple on the 25, then gets shut off at the primer pump when it's closed. But on the 30, the intake nipple/hose goes to the top of the bypass cover nipple behind the pump and the pump is getting double pulse at the bypass cover. Its setup with the normal pump gasket at the hole in the cover and also with a line at the bottom of the bypass cover. It may be overkill ! And not hooked up right. I dont think the pump needs two pulse connections. Usually on those type of pumps one or the other gets used and one gets blocked off. Yeah the roller should roll about 3/4 of the way on the cam then the throttle control rod takes over for full throttle. Sounds like the collar on the rod is to far back. Loosen the collar screw and roll the roller up the cam, it should come to a stop where it starts the loose contact at the cam. Tighten the collar back up against pivot pin on the linkage, then advance to full throttle. Make sure the butterfly is perfectly horizontal and you should be good to go! Sounds like your having fun! Hahaha Thanks again for tuning in!
Actually, it is part of what is called the Recirculation System. Unburned fuel (oil) accumulates in various places in a two-stroke outboard and puddles, specifically the lower crank bearing and the bottom crevices of the intake manifold. The recirculation system routes the excess from those places and takes it to places like the top bearing or to one of the bypass covers so that it can run back through the engine. Eventually it will be burned, or go out the exhaust, or puddle again. But, the recirculation system keeps it from becoming excessive. They give very little trouble. However, sometimes they can give trouble and will make the motor run poorly. The source of trouble is usually from a clogged line in the system.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Yeah, soon as I seen the 30 carb and 30 pump I decided I wasn't going to leave them on the powerhead when I put it on the 25 outboard, seen no reason to need to pulses when one pushes fuel 18" out the end of the hose. I'll work on the cam roller, thanks for the info. Yeah, this boat gets more use then the others. It's my favorite to fish from but it's also a daily work boat. 12-18 bait traps a day, couple crab traps when I've the urge to put some on a plate.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I have thought about it. But I would want to do it on something I'd be keeping. This is just going to be a flip. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. No thats not all! Hahaha I mean you can but no guarantees it's gonna run right. You may need a 30-35 intake manifold and your carb has to be the right size. Heres a couple of links that will help. forums.iboats.com/threads/80s-johnson-evinrude-25hp-to-30-35hp-conversion-with-pics.516146/ forums.iboats.com/threads/converting-a-20-hp-johnson-to-35-hp.270183/ Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Just rebuilt my carbs and new reed valves. On my 40 hp Evinrude took it out on the water today that thing still won't idle. It idles very low then dies. Could it be the idle
Hey. It should idle by itself, carbs closed and synced. No linkage touching the cam. Do you have the manual for it? Did you clean the carbs? I mean Really Clean the Carbs? Hahaha.Check out my Carb Clean Vid, "The Two Most Important Things". Thanks again !
Sweet - runs good but I wonder if it's getting too much fuel - only way to tell is a high speed run, shut down and check plugs. No see-um's are brutal. It's the Real LIfe Saga.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Put it on a trailer and fill it up with water. Not the whole boat, Hahaha, just to the waterline. I know you know that, I'm just messing with you! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Funny how some motors just sound better than others it's like the parts just fit better on some and they are just smoother. 👍
Hey. Yeah it's funny! Thanks again for tuning in!
This is exactly what I needed to see. This and the video prior! I have had that same carb laying around and I’m in the process of completely restoring a 1978 evinrude 35hp. I got the motor for $80 bucks. Everything on the power head electrical wise was all gone. So I’ve decided I’m going as basic as it gets. Tiller handle, removed all of the wiring that I don’t need. Just the stator and the power pack. I can’t wait to see how this carb does! Thanks for the informative video!!!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I'm finally going to test run this thing this weekend if all goes to plan. I've never had an outboard sit for so long..... Stay tuned !
The fl. State bird they will carry you off like jhony cash one peace at a time... love the video can't wait to see it boat tested
Hahaha been here 60+ years, first time I ever heard that one! LMAO!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I got a dirty horse I need you to do that too for me if it all tests out good On the boat.. I'll sponsor your video add whatever you need I'll be up ther in October
I do the same thing submerge them in water to go easy on the neighbors and even yourself when they run like shit they are a real annoyance and too loud if you do it often. I use the muffs and flush attachments for short runs only now and then on dialed in motors at idle mostly....You got to love the compatibility & easy swap & exchange of OMC parts from many different years makes it relatively easy to obtain them and fix them. Good Video.. TOBT62!
Hey. Yes! Hahaha Thanks again for tuning in!
On these 20-25-30-35 motors a silicone sealer or Permatex II bead should be laid down on the round surface (where the drive shaft comes up through) in order to seal around the bottom bearing on the powerhead. This is done just before the powerhead is set down on the mid-section. It is to keep water away from the lower crank bearing. By the time you get everything hooked up the sealer will be dry enough to start the motor. If you swap powerheads during this project, it would be nice if you show everyone how this is done. Thanks for another great video. Love it.
Oh.. Thats why that first 89 Tracker 25hp had all that crap on it. ua-cam.com/video/iXH03C4p5Dg/v-deo.html Was that from the manual?
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 It's from the OMC service manual (1988) in the section under powerhead installation. We did it faithfully when I was flipping wrenches at the dealership. The shop foreman demanded it.
Sounds pretty good you about got that one dialed in just a little more and you got a great motor
She gettin there! Thanks again !
Love your character. your knowledge inspires me. Thanks for the education.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
Yep she will haul a$$ and it’s going to use a lot more for sure.Found that out when converting from 20hp to30hp.But we always need for power.lol. Want to do the tiller conversion on my franken motor also, but will have to get an old gear driven tiller..
Hey. Yes, need for more! Haha! Thanks again for tuning in!
Stater went out on my 1989 Evinrude but that don’t explain why it want run wide open. Most likely the carb I reckon. Great videos by the way. Cold beer and sitting on the porch watching you fix these motors is a nice way to pass the time
Hey. Thanks again ! Any time I can help just let me know!
I don’t understand why I don’t get a notification UA-cam that a new video is available till a day after it’s posted.
Great video btw-👍
Hey. Yeah I know, it's weird. But I'm glad you got one! Thanks again !
Sounds good, looking forward to seeing her out on the water
Hey. Me too! Thanks again !
All that smoke should keep the bugs away. Can't wait to see the motor pushing a boat.
Hey. Yeah. I'm gonna need a boat! Thanks again for tuning in!
Awesome channel learning a lot
Hey. Thanks for watching & commenting ! Stay tuned !
This is how mines acts, smokes like crazy in the tub, but not a bit on the lake🤷🏻♂️
yeah weird!
I love how its so easy to swap parts between all of these models. Makes me wonder if I re-jeted my 48 spl, if it would squeeze any performance gain out of it. Then I just need to afford some gas to power it. Lol. Catch you in the next one!
Hahaha! Thanks again !
Hey Guy...Next time you are adjusting the timing, rollers and the timing marks, would you please do a close up when doing that procedure. I have a 20hp 1970 Johnson that i need to adjust......Thanks a lot!!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Sure, meanwhile this video comes to mind. It might help! Thanks again & Stay tuned ! ua-cam.com/video/h6toVGTqvks/v-deo.html
This series ,when mentioning to tiller it out reminded me of what I ran into when messing with the 2003 and wanting to swap steering brackets due to it having lots of rust and broke parts on swivel/tilt assy..Without pulling power head I just wanted to use the swivel assy from a 1977 rope start but the the steering/swivel bracket and tube were beefed up on the electric start version and I couldn’t just slide tube in.Don’t remember if you ever tried this or mentioned it in any videos.?
Hey. Yeah I did it with the 83 Evinrude 25. I never knew it was that easy. I was looking at it one day and thought if I loosen the mounts it should slide right out, and it did! But they were close in years. After I swapped them out for the lighter mount, I decided to go with the heavier long shaft mount so I swapped them back. I also had to cut the shift shaft to make it a shorty. Then I put the 35hp carb on it. My favorite Outboard ! You still my be able to swap it if the bolt pattern is the same. I think it was 4 bolts that hold the bracket on the shaft. Check the schematics! LMK! thx
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 yes,I remember that video and you just used the existing steering brackets and I thought I could do it but because I wanted to use the electric start steering bracket(which I didn’t realize was different and beefed up)with a 1977 35hp rope start swivel bracket.There is a stub on the bottom of steering bracket(for strength) of electric start I ended up cracking and broke it off and filed down where I broke it off bracket and bolted the 1977 tube to it and was able to just slide tube down into its original 1977 swivel bracket,if that makes sense.My mistake for thinking they were the same brackets,but once I cracked it figured why not make it work.People add electric start all the time to non electric start all the time.
Mentioned swapping a '94 30hp powerhead on my '06 25hp outboard. I tossed the 30hp carb, used the 25 on the 30 intake. Those extra very small lines, I deleted by using the 25 fuel pump and pump plate, ran the tiny hose from one fitting to the other by-passing the fuel system.
My opinion on the one that ran from the primer line to the bottom of the block-a luber for the lower bearing????
My cam roller touches the cam plate at idle, exactly on the right bump, just as the carb throat plate begins to move the roller is exactly between the bumps, but from that moment on the roller never touches the cam plate. Works fine, but wrong???
I also had to switch from a 6 gal fuel to a 12 gal because of the distance I use this bay skiff traveling. I also added a 30 gal tank for bait traps yesterday, was running a solid 31 mph before, still running 30, bumping 31 off and on for a moment.
Hey. Yeah there's a separate "luber" line or oiler line I call it. It comes up from the bottom and pushes oil to the top crank bearing. The bottom bearing gets lubed without any lines because its at the bottom. The line from the primer goes straight to the intake and carb top nipple on the 25, then gets shut off at the primer pump when it's closed. But on the 30, the intake nipple/hose goes to the top of the bypass cover nipple behind the pump and the pump is getting double pulse at the bypass cover. Its setup with the normal pump gasket at the hole in the cover and also with a line at the bottom of the bypass cover. It may be overkill ! And not hooked up right. I dont think the pump needs two pulse connections. Usually on those type of pumps one or the other gets used and one gets blocked off. Yeah the roller should roll about 3/4 of the way on the cam then the throttle control rod takes over for full throttle. Sounds like the collar on the rod is to far back. Loosen the collar screw and roll the roller up the cam, it should come to a stop where it starts the loose contact at the cam. Tighten the collar back up against pivot pin on the linkage, then advance to full throttle. Make sure the butterfly is perfectly horizontal and you should be good to go! Sounds like your having fun! Hahaha Thanks again for tuning in!
Actually, it is part of what is called the Recirculation System. Unburned fuel (oil) accumulates in various places in a two-stroke outboard and puddles, specifically the lower crank bearing and the bottom crevices of the intake manifold. The recirculation system routes the excess from those places and takes it to places like the top bearing or to one of the bypass covers so that it can run back through the engine. Eventually it will be burned, or go out the exhaust, or puddle again. But, the recirculation system keeps it from becoming excessive. They give very little trouble. However, sometimes they can give trouble and will make the motor run poorly. The source of trouble is usually from a clogged line in the system.
@@mikedurhan9941 thx mike!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Yeah, soon as I seen the 30 carb and 30 pump I decided I wasn't going to leave them on the powerhead when I put it on the 25 outboard, seen no reason to need to pulses when one pushes fuel 18" out the end of the hose.
I'll work on the cam roller, thanks for the info.
Yeah, this boat gets more use then the others. It's my favorite to fish from but it's also a daily work boat. 12-18 bait traps a day, couple crab traps when I've the urge to put some on a plate.
Have you thought about taking the stock reed valves out and putting some sport reed valves in should get a little more power and a better idle
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I have thought about it. But I would want to do it on something I'd be keeping. This is just going to be a flip. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I thought you were putting a tiller handle on this one.
Hey. Yes Tiller/Short shaft! I'm just setting it up before I pull the power head. Thanks again for tuning in!
I have a 1994 Johnson 25 hp. All I have to do is put an "Orifice Plug, No. 67D" in? The plug at the bottom front of the carb bowl?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. No thats not all! Hahaha I mean you can but no guarantees it's gonna run right. You may need a 30-35 intake manifold and your carb has to be the right size. Heres a couple of links that will help. forums.iboats.com/threads/80s-johnson-evinrude-25hp-to-30-35hp-conversion-with-pics.516146/
forums.iboats.com/threads/converting-a-20-hp-johnson-to-35-hp.270183/
Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 thanks for the response!
🐟 time to go fishing😉
Yeah I'm thinking the same thing! Thanks again !
With all those forceps hanging off the tracker it looks like some sort of medical experiment .
Hahaha! Thanks again for tuning in!
Keep it real baby 🥃👍
Hahaha I Try! Thanks for tuning in!
Good UN !
Thank Uin ! Hahaha Thanks for tuning in!
Just rebuilt my carbs and new reed valves. On my 40 hp Evinrude took it out on the water today that thing still won't idle. It idles very low then dies. Could it be the idle
Hey. It should idle by itself, carbs closed and synced. No linkage touching the cam. Do you have the manual for it? Did you clean the carbs? I mean Really Clean the Carbs? Hahaha.Check out my Carb Clean Vid, "The Two Most Important Things".
Thanks again !
Sweet - runs good but I wonder if it's getting too much fuel - only way to tell is a high speed run, shut down and check plugs. No see-um's are brutal. It's the Real LIfe Saga.
Yeah we gonna find out! Thanks again for tuning in!
My boat has a leak in it what do you recommend the way i can find the leak?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Put it on a trailer and fill it up with water. Not the whole boat, Hahaha, just to the waterline. I know you know that, I'm just messing with you! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 🤣🤣 Thank you for your help
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I'm watching your videos every day
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I learned a lot for you thank you so much
@@losexploradoresdecazaypesc5264 Thank You
hey man am looking for a cowling hood for a yamaha 25 hp 2006 model
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Best bet would be Ebay. Anything around the year/model should fit. Or boats.net for a new one. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I CAN BRING YOU SOME 114 THAT WILL HOPPPP IT UP
Or I'll dump some Fireball in it! Hahaha More Fireball !
Sounds like your getting eat up by "noseeums"', ya never see them !
Yeah I thought about that but they don't leave such a welt like them skeeters do! Haha Thanks again for tuning in!