Thank you for your easy to understand, highly informative video. I spent several hours yesterday bare shaft tuning my arrows to my bow and with the knowledge I learned from your video, I was able to define the issue (too stiff) and adjust the point weight to bring the bare shafts into the group of fletched arrows. With the new heavier points my groups tightened by about about 30% at 40 yards. Thanks again!
Hi from finland. I just wached all your archery related videos and I just wanted to say that I find them informative and well made. Audio and video are good, stable. Your caracter is informative, dosnt pring personality in too much. I can see that your profession as a teacher might have helped you to do these good videos. Cheers.
I just wanted to tell you that after reading James Park's book called Archery Technology, he noted that changing the point mass down from 120 gr to 100 gr only required an adjustment of bow weight of 0.1 pounds to retune. Therefore the point mass has very little impact on bow tuning, but it is a very important consideration in relation to drift.
The statement at 1:40 is very informative. I replayed it several times! Sadly, the range where I shoot doesn't help much! When asked a question they reply is short and without detail. When asked what spine arrow I should shoot with my 45#, 27 inch draw compound bow I got three different answers. plan to try bare arrow tuning tomorrow!
The spine will depend on the manufacturer. Most manufacturers have charts at their websites that serve as guides to what combination will work best. They charts aren't perfect but they are a good starting point. Keep on slinging arrows.
I have been shooting for 10 years and have never bare shaft tuned, I think it is time I give it a go. Thanks for the video, you described it well. Maybe my groups will shrink some. Does it make much of a difference within 30 yards? I rarely go further than that. I am pretty good at tuning with fletchings, and I shoot 4 inch helicals, so they get a very good spin. Still hoping it helps.
It's always nice when your arrows go exactly where you intend them to. If your arrows are out of tune, they'll drift, forcing you to compensate. Over time, as you are probably familiar with, having to aim-off all the time becomes an undesirable habit.
NUSensei Well, went out today and tried it. Looks like I already had it well tuned. I kept close at first because I was worried, at 10 yards, without making any adjustments the bare shaft was going where the fletched arrows were, pretty much anyway, negligibly different. At 20 yards the bare shaft still flew straight, but it was angled slightly, but still shot pretty much with the group. I will use the technique when tuning now, but I am surprised how well I had it tuned in the first place.
Yeah, if you're already shooting well, it's not too surprising. You'd be a lot more frustrated by now if they were horribly tuned all along. This tends to be more problematic for people who just got their equipment "out of the shop", and so haven't quite got the best match.
I can do a video on plunger buttons. There's no real trick to it though. Generally, you want it to be on the stiffer side rather than softer, but obviously not too stiff. If you're having trouble with the arrow's spine or clearance, it may be that you need to change your arrows.
i've read that for your method of finding the correct spine to be valid you have to shoot from a completely stiff plunger. some recommend replacing the spring with a match stick
hi Nusensei, I m new to archery, just one quick question...if you can get your fletched arrows to the 10/X already, what's the point of doing the bare shaft tuning? Ths a lot...
Do you need to do both paper tune and bare shaft? I find it silly to tune one and then retune for another and then coming back to the first to only see that the arrows don't behave as it was.
One thing I am not clear on is how bare shafts should line up compared to the fletched arrows. My bare shafts impact within the fletched arrow group but not parallel to the fletched arrows. Is it important that the fletched and bare shaft arrows be close to parallel? If it does matter then what does it mean if the nock end is higher and to the right of the impact point? Currently I am drawing 35 lb at 28 inches. with victory VAP 700 spine arrows cut to 28 1/4" from the valley of the nock with 100 grain points.
Hi hav a kap 25 riser with sf elite fiber feom limbs 66,36 do you no a good arrow I can shoot out the back yard have easton jazz 1916 ther allrite someting better 4 recurve thanks
my oppinion is its better to have a a bit stiffer arow with heavy point than a soft arrow .. my bareshaft on my x7 1914 takes to the left about 50-60 cm from the group..i tride a spine down its the same thing i cant how ever i do get my bareshaft with the group in 18 meters ..and i now use a 9% nibbpoint and the fletched arrows group better they fly straight but my bareshaft wont work with me in my tuning... in april im gonna tune my carbon one 660 spine hope they will woek with me... i tried to make my bow stronger and softer no differece on the x7 , tried 1814 its the same thing even tried 1813 xx75 shafts but then the sound in my bow is really loud and the bareshaft is far far away.. even though they should be softer.. one in my club said if you get the fletched arrows to group and fly straight then you are done.. on my last bow i had x10 550 29" with 110 grains point.. and 41 pounds on my fingers , and they are way to wrong but they worked perfect , i dont understand it they are for much stronger bows and worked perfect with my bow and string,.,, i tried the "correct" spine from easton selection chart and they didnt work at all... this really gets to my head.. sometimes right is wrong and wrong is right...
NUsensei ive seen in some of ur videos that u have been wearing the green and gold shirt have been selected or represented the australian team for archery?
owww ok thanks for the reply......just a follow up question if u dont mind..have been joining annual shoots or comps nationally or locally? and where are u based?
Can I make a normal arrow into a bare shaft arrow? How do I take the fletchings off? I don't want to buy a dozen of each part just for 1 bare shafted arrow...
Get a razor or hobby knife and cut the fletching off. If you are obsessed with detail, you could weigh a fletched arrow and then add normal tape at the point where the fletching was to add the sam amount of weight there on the bare shaft.
Great vid nu can ya help me I have winact mk1 riser on the power nut front limb side I have no alan key hole in tiller two holes eithernside for folk wrench how do I adjust please
I started to shoot for first time, my bow is new and the seller tunned , but when I arrived home all the arrows went to left even when I targeted to the center athe arrows went at the distance of the target but 10 cms to the left. What do you think is the problem with the bow ?
Tuning from the shop isn't perfect. It'll get your bow shooting, but it will need to be fine tuned for the user. However, if you are new, there can be numerous causes rather than the bow's tune. You may have a form fault, or your sight alignment or sight picture may be incorrect. It isn't worth tinkering with the bow until your form is consistent enough to use diagnostic methods, such as bare shaft tuning.
@Ike Brider ... Thank you so much for your advice ... I m very sad that I have not find so far no recurve ranch in the near of my city... neither instructors or so... seems recurve archery is kind of rare sport around here... the only ranchs I have found are for compound or riffle ranch, and the people from the compound ranch told me that If I come to their ranch, they could not be able to help me with my bow... so I am still have my bow packed... :´-( still looking for... But I sincerely appreciate your comments and I will go for it..."tunning for tens" , because I really and truly want to learn how to tunne properly my bow... Thank you sincerely....
you really should shoot several bare shaft arrows mixed in with fletched shafts to get a more accurate result, randomly selecting them from your quiver, plunger tuning is also very important as is centre shot
You mention that a heavier tip will give you a "soft shaft" and a Lighter Tip will result in a "Stiffer Shaft". Can you please clarify/explain/sum up/ clear up, etc?
I should've said "spine" rather than shaft. "Spine" can mean two things: "static spine", the amount of flex the shaft has, as well as "dynamic spine", which combines other factors including length and weight of the arrow. It is possible to change the dynamic spine of an arrow by using a different weight tip.
Very interesting!!!! And thank you so much for sharing.... Please i have a question.... If you arrows weigth 85 grams and 100 grams How to tunne a 85 grams arrow or a 100 grams arrow With a recurve bow ?? Thank you so much for your guidance !!!
It's not the weight of the arrow that matters as much. It's the spine. Arrows with heavier points will affect the arrow's dynamic spine, but you can still check your tune using the bare shaft method.
hai i been archery for 5 year... i like your video after i saw your shooting skill I felt very weird mainly because after you release, your bow arm didn't stay complete straight.. other than that couple times your bow arm went to the right and couple times your bow arm went to the left. I'm not saying that i am a great archer but my bow arm didn't went to left or right as terrible (sorry) as you didn't. but i thing you can fix that very easily.. and also You are a great archer. i hope maybe you can reply to my comment. p.s. Sorry for bad english. I'm from Malaysia
I can only stress how annyoing wrong spine arrows can be. I had my draw weight measured, but the shop keeper did a mistake, so I was thinking I was pulling 40#, while the truth is mor like 36#. At my draw length of 29 1/4" I bought 12 carbon arrows with a spine value of 500. Unshortened they flew acceptable, but as as neat as my aluminium ones. When I finally cut them to my length, which made them relatively stiffer, the wrong spine added up so much, that the arrows flew completely erratic. A paper test revealed a tear of more then 2". So the arrows left the bow a good portion sideways. I had to adjust my sights almost all the way to the left to make the bow hit the target. A bare shaft missed the target to the left at 20m. Indicating a way too stiff arrow. I then tried the carbon arrows of a team mate. At a spine of 600 they flew way better. So even if you are just one grade of stiffness off - it might mess up your whole shooting.
Hello nusensei, seen most of your archery videos to learn useful information that i couldn't myself. However, i do see that your shooting form is a little incorrect (seen from your release and bow breaking). You have the same follow through as Jake (fingers to the shoulders) however you do seem to be plucking the string upon release. And your bow breaking is inconsistent (Different bow swing after shot)
+HyperboxMaG Just because an archers form is not perfect, It doesn't mean that they can't shoot well if they are consistent. There are plenty of examples of top class, even world class archers who don't have "perfect form" but are consistent enough to shoot for their nation. I have seen examples of form which I would not teach my archers such as improper string grip/bow grip, archers leaning, bow canting and so on, displayed on the world stage and at the Olympics by the worlds top archers but consistency is the key here and that's what is being displayed here....
it just me or other might thought the same. why in every of your video you make it alone? why dont you bring along your partner, friend or student. it will make the video more lively. i dont know just sometime maybe bring someone. your video really helpfull by the way thanks.
Thank you for your easy to understand, highly informative video. I spent several hours yesterday bare shaft tuning my arrows to my bow and with the knowledge I learned from your video, I was able to define the issue (too stiff) and adjust the point weight to bring the bare shafts into the group of fletched arrows. With the new heavier points my groups tightened by about about 30% at 40 yards. Thanks again!
I never realised that archery was so technically complex - a real eye-opener. Excellent video.
Hi from finland. I just wached all your archery related videos and I just wanted to say that I find them informative and well made. Audio and video are good, stable. Your caracter is informative, dosnt pring personality in too much. I can see that your profession as a teacher might have helped you to do these good videos. Cheers.
I just wanted to tell you that after reading James Park's book called Archery Technology, he noted that changing the point mass down from 120 gr to 100 gr only required an adjustment of bow weight of 0.1 pounds to retune. Therefore the point mass has very little impact on bow tuning, but it is a very important consideration in relation to drift.
Hm. There's not much to say about plungers. Are you asking about adjusting the plunger or using the plunger to tune the bow?
The statement at 1:40 is very informative. I replayed it several times! Sadly, the range where I shoot doesn't help much! When asked a question they reply is short and without detail. When asked what spine arrow I should shoot with my 45#, 27 inch draw compound bow I got three different answers. plan to try bare arrow tuning tomorrow!
The spine will depend on the manufacturer. Most manufacturers have charts at their websites that serve as guides to what combination will work best. They charts aren't perfect but they are a good starting point. Keep on slinging arrows.
I have been shooting for 10 years and have never bare shaft tuned, I think it is time I give it a go. Thanks for the video, you described it well. Maybe my groups will shrink some. Does it make much of a difference within 30 yards? I rarely go further than that. I am pretty good at tuning with fletchings, and I shoot 4 inch helicals, so they get a very good spin. Still hoping it helps.
It's always nice when your arrows go exactly where you intend them to. If your arrows are out of tune, they'll drift, forcing you to compensate. Over time, as you are probably familiar with, having to aim-off all the time becomes an undesirable habit.
NUSensei
Well, went out today and tried it. Looks like I already had it well tuned. I kept close at first because I was worried, at 10 yards, without making any adjustments the bare shaft was going where the fletched arrows were, pretty much anyway, negligibly different. At 20 yards the bare shaft still flew straight, but it was angled slightly, but still shot pretty much with the group. I will use the technique when tuning now, but I am surprised how well I had it tuned in the first place.
Yeah, if you're already shooting well, it's not too surprising. You'd be a lot more frustrated by now if they were horribly tuned all along. This tends to be more problematic for people who just got their equipment "out of the shop", and so haven't quite got the best match.
Great video! You explained the necessary information very well. Keep the videos coming, please.
I can do a video on plunger buttons. There's no real trick to it though. Generally, you want it to be on the stiffer side rather than softer, but obviously not too stiff. If you're having trouble with the arrow's spine or clearance, it may be that you need to change your arrows.
your videos, old and new, has renewed my love for archery
i've read that for your method of finding the correct spine to be valid you have to shoot from a completely stiff plunger. some recommend replacing the spring with a match stick
Awesome!!! I'm looking forward to more of your Archery vids!!! Thanks for posting!
hi Nusensei, I m new to archery, just one quick question...if you can get your fletched arrows to the 10/X already, what's the point of doing the bare shaft tuning? Ths a lot...
Do you need to do both paper tune and bare shaft? I find it silly to tune one and then retune for another and then coming back to the first to only see that the arrows don't behave as it was.
Hi good video!! You should try the turbo nock they are great. They spin the arrow around 9000 rpm keep up the good work
One thing I am not clear on is how bare shafts should line up compared to the fletched arrows. My bare shafts impact within the fletched arrow group but not parallel to the fletched arrows. Is it important that the fletched and bare shaft arrows be close to parallel? If it does matter then what does it mean if the nock end is higher and to the right of the impact point? Currently I am drawing 35 lb at 28 inches. with victory VAP 700 spine arrows cut to 28 1/4" from the valley of the nock with 100 grain points.
Very good, as usual, hit em straight!
Very Much Helpful Sensei. I really love it.... I learned something new
Hi hav a kap 25 riser with sf elite fiber feom limbs 66,36 do you no a good arrow I can shoot out the back yard have easton jazz 1916 ther allrite someting better 4 recurve thanks
Could you please tell me what distance you use to shoot the bare shaft tuning
Hey NuSensei, could you make a video about how to do the tuning with the piece of paper? Thanks in advance!
When u cut your arrows do u cut both the bareshaft at the fletched?
Did you do a video on the other method you showed....”paper tuning”?
What covers do u recompense for targets because I want to shoot the covers cuz I can
my oppinion is its better to have a a bit stiffer arow with heavy point than a soft arrow .. my bareshaft on my x7 1914 takes to the left about 50-60 cm from the group..i tride a spine down its the same thing i cant how ever i do get my bareshaft with the group in 18 meters ..and i now use a 9% nibbpoint and the fletched arrows group better they fly straight but my bareshaft wont work with me in my tuning...
in april im gonna tune my carbon one 660 spine hope they will woek with me... i tried to make my bow stronger and softer no differece on the x7 , tried 1814 its the same thing even tried 1813 xx75 shafts but then the sound in my bow is really loud and the bareshaft is far far away.. even though they should be softer.. one in my club said if you get the fletched arrows to group and fly straight then you are done..
on my last bow i had x10 550 29" with 110 grains point.. and 41 pounds on my fingers , and they are way to wrong but they worked perfect , i dont understand it they are for much stronger bows and worked perfect with my bow and string,.,, i tried the "correct" spine from easton selection chart and they didnt work at all... this really gets to my head.. sometimes right is wrong and wrong is right...
NUsensei ive seen in some of ur videos that u have been wearing the green and gold shirt have been selected or represented the australian team for archery?
No, it's just an Archery Australia shirt that can be bought from the AA store (though it is no longer available).
owww ok thanks for the reply......just a follow up question if u dont mind..have been joining annual shoots or comps nationally or locally? and where are u based?
I'm based in Melbourne. I do the occasional club or state comp.
What is the best distance to shoot for a bare shaft tooning?
20m is enough to get a sufficient tune. Pro athletes may do longer distances for even finer tuning.
Can I make a normal arrow into a bare shaft arrow? How do I take the fletchings off? I don't want to buy a dozen of each part just for 1 bare shafted arrow...
Get a razor or hobby knife and cut the fletching off. If you are obsessed with detail, you could weigh a fletched arrow and then add normal tape at the point where the fletching was to add the sam amount of weight there on the bare shaft.
how many yards should I do this at?? is 10 about right? I just bought some stiffer arrows I think they'll shot better
10yds is a little short for tuning. You can get some idea of what needs to be done, but you'll get more accurate diagnosis at 20yds.
Great vid nu can ya help me I have winact mk1 riser on the power nut front limb side I have no alan key hole in tiller two holes eithernside for folk wrench how do I adjust please
I started to shoot for first time, my bow is new and the seller tunned , but when I arrived home all the arrows went to left even when I targeted to the center athe arrows went at the distance of the target but 10 cms to the left. What do you think is the problem with the bow ?
Tuning from the shop isn't perfect. It'll get your bow shooting, but it will need to be fine tuned for the user. However, if you are new, there can be numerous causes rather than the bow's tune. You may have a form fault, or your sight alignment or sight picture may be incorrect. It isn't worth tinkering with the bow until your form is consistent enough to use diagnostic methods, such as bare shaft tuning.
@Ike Brider ... Thank you so much for your advice ... I m very sad that I have not find so far no recurve ranch in the near of my city... neither instructors or so... seems recurve archery is kind of rare sport around here... the only ranchs I have found are for compound or riffle ranch, and the people from the compound ranch told me that If I come to their ranch, they could not be able to help me with my bow... so I am still have my bow packed... :´-( still looking for... But I sincerely appreciate your comments and I will go for it..."tunning for tens" , because I really and truly want to learn how to tunne properly my bow... Thank you sincerely....
you really should shoot several bare shaft arrows mixed in with fletched shafts to get a more accurate result, randomly selecting them from your quiver, plunger tuning is also very important as is centre shot
You mention that a heavier tip will give you a "soft shaft" and a Lighter Tip will result in a "Stiffer Shaft". Can you please clarify/explain/sum up/ clear up, etc?
I should've said "spine" rather than shaft. "Spine" can mean two things: "static spine", the amount of flex the shaft has, as well as "dynamic spine", which combines other factors including length and weight of the arrow. It is possible to change the dynamic spine of an arrow by using a different weight tip.
Cool. Thanks
Very interesting!!!! And thank you so much for sharing.... Please i have a question.... If you arrows weigth 85 grams and 100 grams How to tunne a 85 grams arrow or a 100 grams arrow With a recurve bow ?? Thank you so much for your guidance !!!
It's not the weight of the arrow that matters as much. It's the spine. Arrows with heavier points will affect the arrow's dynamic spine, but you can still check your tune using the bare shaft method.
Are you mixing up grains with grams?
@NUSensei could you do a plunger button tuning guide?
Don't you mean putting a heavier field point to stiffen the arrow rather than a lighter field point?
No, a heavier point will make the dynamic spine softer.
Usefull as usual!!! Dank you so much!!!!
hai
i been archery for 5 year... i like your video
after i saw your shooting skill I felt very weird mainly because after you release, your bow arm didn't stay complete straight.. other than that couple times your bow arm went to the right and couple times your bow arm went to the left. I'm not saying that i am a great archer but my bow arm didn't went to left or right as terrible (sorry) as you didn't. but i thing you can fix that very easily.. and also You are a great archer.
i hope maybe you can reply to my comment.
p.s. Sorry for bad english. I'm from Malaysia
This is an accurate observation. Note that this video is rather old.
NUSensei I really want to see your latest shooting skill
I can only stress how annyoing wrong spine arrows can be. I had my draw weight measured, but the shop keeper did a mistake, so I was thinking I was pulling 40#, while the truth is mor like 36#.
At my draw length of 29 1/4" I bought 12 carbon arrows with a spine value of 500. Unshortened they flew acceptable, but as as neat as my aluminium ones.
When I finally cut them to my length, which made them relatively stiffer, the wrong spine added up so much, that the arrows flew completely erratic. A paper test revealed a tear of more then 2". So the arrows left the bow a good portion sideways. I had to adjust my sights almost all the way to the left to make the bow hit the target. A bare shaft missed the target to the left at 20m. Indicating a way too stiff arrow.
I then tried the carbon arrows of a team mate. At a spine of 600 they flew way better. So even if you are just one grade of stiffness off - it might mess up your whole shooting.
An in the case of using spin wings or similar vanes, a slight mismatch will completely shred them. And that definitely will mess up your shooting.
Very good video!
What pound bow?
yes, adjusting the plunger because im having trouble getting it right
Great vid, very helpful thanks
Hello nusensei, seen most of your archery videos to learn useful information that i couldn't myself. However, i do see that your shooting form is a little incorrect (seen from your release and bow breaking). You have the same follow through as Jake (fingers to the shoulders) however you do seem to be plucking the string upon release. And your bow breaking is inconsistent (Different bow swing after shot)
+HyperboxMaG Just because an archers form is not perfect, It doesn't mean that they can't shoot well if they are consistent. There are plenty of examples of top class, even world class archers who don't have "perfect form" but are consistent enough to shoot for their nation. I have seen examples of form which I would not teach my archers such as improper string grip/bow grip, archers leaning, bow canting and so on, displayed on the world stage and at the Olympics by the worlds top archers but consistency is the key here and that's what is being displayed here....
Unfortunately, I can't help you there. I don't know how to tune a longbow.
good video!
I need to tune for hunting.
Good stuff Ta lots
thank you!
it just me or other might thought the same. why in every of your video you make it alone? why dont you bring along your partner, friend or student. it will make the video more lively. i dont know just sometime maybe bring someone. your video really helpfull by the way thanks.
Grazie.
3:20 "the shaft is too stiff"
Fix your standing, your body shaking