You can use that to get all the vehicle and trailer wieghts. I'm gonna build one, but I've bled brakes before so I don't foresee the problems with air that Geek had. 😂
you should have used a T fitting instead of a 90. to fill attach the big ends of 2 bell fittings together this can be standard plumbing pipe as you will be removing it before use. to act as a reservoir attach one small end to the T on the device. on the other end of the reservoir put some other kind of pump. I have used a grease gun air hose almost anything will work with enough preacher to make the cylinder expand. with the reservoir at the highest point and the cylinder at the lowest Fill the reservoir with oil; compress the cylinder if it is expanded. expand the cylinder, relieve the presser push the cylinder back in and repeat a few times. like bleeding a brake system. remove the reservoir and plug the T,
Another way to avoid all the air would be to begin filling it with the piston fully compressed, then draw it down a little at a time, filling as you go. Just keep your fill hole as the highest point at all times and air shouldn't be such a problem. As another viewer suggested, filling it submerged would be an ideal scenario, but there are still ways to get around air in hydraulics, even from within a nitrogen oxygen environment. :)
Suggest you compress the piston 1/16 inch before bleeding. When you feel it’s purged of air, the volume displaced by screwing in the elbow won’t be enough to fully advance the piston. And use wrenches rather than channel locks, you’re making me crazy. Otherwise, good project.
why not just pressurize it and the ram would just pop out? Wood screw in machine threads? With a start like this there is no way there is good info in this video. Sorry. Can't continue on.
18:11 Famous last words... Then proceeds to beat on the spindle handle. Hey at least he's using a dead blow they never said anything about not using a dead blow mallet :) "Never use a hammer, pipe extension or cheater bar on spindle handle of vise" (Wilton).
If the vise frame cracked he would have determined the failure /breaking point of the vise frame. ...in pounds. usefull information in some situations......... Isnt there a term for that ? somthng like yeild point
Great video and thanks for making this AND leaving in the problems/issues you had - I think it makes the video more legitimate as the person from China says below - it's how we learn.
Y r u putting Teflon tape on a flare fitting? You just said make sure you have a 5ton rated fitting. What's the point of having a 5-ton rated fitting if you're not going to install it properly. now that all the pressure or at least most of it is going to be applied to your Teflon tape and threads. Sure to slowly leak now. Your preventing the force to be applied to the flair matting surface of the fitting. Now the pressure resides on the tape and threads themsels.
5:29 FYI for anyone dealing with air inside their system like this poor guy (we've all been there)...don't be afraid to LIGHTLY / GENTLY manually actuate the cylinder by pushing it in and pulling it back out a few times...with the valve off as your filling it. You will notice that the tiniest amount of force will cause a dramatic in/out movement for the oil and will quickly flush any air out. Don't forget your safety glasses and maybe some shop rags below just for any excess oil that squirts out (think arterial spray from any slasher movie, also a hydraulic system of sorts). Anyway, wiggle the cylinder in and out as you fill and you'll notice if draws in the oil versus you forcing it to displace the air via ramming the nozzle, waiting it out or mashing it with pliers to vibrate it out. You'll not only remove all the air this way, but you'll also know when it's full because air bubbles stop bubbling and oil can be seen smoothly moving in and out. Try it! It is such a time saver and much more effective. Still, this is a great video showing a creative use for these short body rams and is much cheaper than buying a new press with a gauge or tapping into the press itself to add one.
GG: A great demonstration and build. As you proved, teflon tape doesn't stick to oiled surfaces. I observed that you do not calculate the volume of the cylinder. In a practical sense, we may not need to know the volume of oil as it may not affect the final PSI on the moveable disk. Purging the oil between the gauge and the cylinder inlet is tricky. A view named Karm, has the right idea. Finally, I did wonder why you were building this gadget; now I know. I'm trying to think of what other practical use I could put this to. There are electronic sensors for PSI. I could hook up the short body ram to a remote part of my car frame and measure weight between body and frame. Hmmm....how about measuring the weight on a tailer hitch? Now that I could use.
It doesn’t provide you with a cushion it will actually be spongy and read wrong because you don’t know what you’re doing, Like in the video when you said now we know that you don’t know what you are doing which was actually wrong because I knew way before in something like five minutes!
It is obvious the author is far from being knowledgeable about what is taking place in the video. The lack of control of hand tools, improper use of hand tools, and not acknowledging proper sequence of events raises red flags in most reputable establishments. These potentially hazard conditions are being presented to innocent individuals at the mercy of this botched video tactics. I closed this embarrassing attempt of ignorance and hope most reading this would focus on the misrepresented content and not my honest opinion.
Thanks for the great idea, and for leaving what didn't work in the video. Showing that helps as much as anything. I was able to screw a 4-inch copper extension fitting into mine, fill it with hydraulic oil and then push the piston out with an air nozzle. I pushed the piston back in 3 or 4 times to purge the air, adding oil in the copper extension each time and then pushed it out with compressed air each time. I screwed the gauge on without putting oil in it, and it worked perfectly.
Filling the cylinder while pulling it open leaves you free of air bubbles, much faster. Use the vacuum it creates to your advantage. Took about 10 minutes total to assemble, super easy.
agreed, if you very gently work the cylinder back and forth just a little bit, it will push the air out until all that is getting pumped in and out is the oil. take it slow and gentle and should be able to be purged. when i first started i was moving the cylinder too much and pushed out more oil than i needed to
I didn't have any trouble doing mine I pulled the plug out held it with the fill hole pointed up slowly filled while pulling the ram out .once the ram was fully extended push in a millimeter watching for bubbles if you see bubbles press a Lil more pull out slowly again making sure not to allow air in fill hole
You are absolutely correct. I'll bet if you measured the bore, calculated the area, then the pressure at 20 tons applied then you would get exactly the 9250 PSI as shown on the Harbor Freight box instead of the 9144 PSI from Garage Geek's calculation.
I'm doing basically the exact opposite for my project. My idea is to measure pull force in rigging systems (rope tension). I have a 12" stroke × 2" bore hydraulic cylinder. The rod diameter is 1.25". So it works out to 1.91sq/inches of area the fluid will act on (Bore area minus rod area) I'll leave the base port open and put a gauge on the rod port and fill it with oil (fully collapsed). So when the cylinder is put under tension the gauge will give me a pressure that I can convert to lbs/force. Ex: 1800PSI × 1.91 = 3,438 pounds
you say at the beggining of the video that 5000 psi gauge should be good to 10 ton jack , and then you install the same 5000 psi gauge to a 20 ton jack........can you explain which one is correct?
PSI pound square inch , 1 pound times 1 inch is 1 pound he needs to know how much fluid he is using in oz , 2 .36 + 1.5 = 354 pounds his reading is way off , In a Bench vice your not going to go over 400 psi without breaking the vice . his reading was 2500 his math 10 thousand PSI . Wrong The Length of the Pipes the Size in ID will all have to go into his equation . If he filled in in a bucked submerged no air , but still has to know fluid ounce for correct measurement of force
Thanks for sharing. I need similar tool to measure the compression between two plates in my experimental setup. I would like to ask if such devices are commercially available or I need to make them in house. I don't know the name of the tool that I need to purchase but the intent is to measure the compression force between two rigid plates in a setup. I can provide you with more information if you need. Any help is highly appreciated.
www.ametektest.com/products/force-gauges/erichsen-hydraulic-force-gauges I haven't actually found more than one manufacturer, and they are pretty expensive for me. :(
Oh, and here for very small forces: shop.pimoroni.com/products/force-sensing-resistor-0-5-circle?variant=385715030&gclid=CjwKCAiAz-7UBRBAEiwAVrz-9e_NnLMmbuoNjc5Qredq5O3aR-z1KeK8KxHqwY5dmo_gPnC65w7SWxoCv7kQAvD_BwE
That was painful to watch. Start with the gauge hole uppermost and the piston in. Attach a funnel to the gauge hole and put in some oil, then pull the piston out and push back in again. Repeat until there are no air bubbles. With the piston out, remove the funnel, fill the gauge, attach and snug up a little. Force the piston in a little, then loosen it to release any entrapped air, re-tighten and you're good to go.
I would have used 1/4" NPTM to JIC-F-4 (P/N 6505-04-04) straight for the ram fitting and then 1/4" NPTF to a JIC-M-4 (P/N 2502-04-04) elbow for gauge. This will make it easier to bleed and you will be able to set the gauge angle to anything you want. One comment about the video: It always drives me nuts when someone is trying to teach people and don't teach them to use the right tool for the job. Using Channel locks for everything is not a good example. You don't want to teach bad habits.
Go back to school your math is wrong , your shop Vice may have done 400 PSI before it broke . the Oil chamber has to be a reading in fluid oz the pipe ID all the way to the gauge 1 inch square is 1 pound you have less that 2 x 1/2 surface area and depth . your vice did 2500 PSI your math was 10,000. the 20 ton jack did 5000 you say it did 40 thousand ?? BS I have a Valve spring tester 200$ in my 8 inch vice I be lucky to get it past 300 pounds square inch it test up to 800 PSI I think your vice did 340 PSI your camber reading 2.36 you did not add depth of the chamber or the length of the pipe or ID of the pipe . that is why a pressure plate for valve springs start at 200 $
should have compressed the cylinder almost to the bottom of the stroke then fill the volume, then when you screw the gauge in it will displace the piston and as long as the piston doesn't bottom out to the end of the stroke it will work fine.
Entertaining video. I would have tried slowly loosening the fitting at the gauge while it was under pressure from the vise until fluid started coming out.
Good effort but sloppy and backward job on teflon tape. Easiest way to remember is to hold fitting in left hand and wrap from underneath over top this way the tape will self tighten as the fitting is made up rather than raking itself off.
I like the slight movements of the camera when you move from one shot to the other because it makes it look like I'm taking part in the action at hand. It's like playing C.O.D
Try using a tee with a plug instead of the elbow. Then use a vacuum pump, similar to bleed Auto brakes to suck the air out through the air separator. With oil in the separator and the entire device upside-down release the vacuum and let the oil drawn in. Then install the plug. Great concept.
Not calculated correctly. 4.36 square inches at 10k psi is 21.85 tons of force. 5000 psi gauge only gives you 1/2 that range. Pounds pressure x square inches = pounds total force. Divide by 2000 to get tons.
Just drill & tap a hole in either the elbow or the base of the gauge fitting for a bleed port, use a fine thread tap, and as long of a set screw as possible and thread sealer to plug the hole.
No sealer needed (and sealers don't work in oil) if a bleeder screw is used, either a brake bleeder type or a notched type with a sealing washer, brake type would be best..
I almost cried when I saw him clamp that cylinder in his vice,...at least protect the finish ! Then using grip pliers on a nut/fitting,.. then trying to 'force in' hydraulic oil without an air relief,...etc. etc. Oh my! BUT his initial thinking was O.K.,...I guess.
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Maybe to fill it, assemble it in a bucket of oil?
Was not sure at first but the out come was great. I am going to use it to measure toung weight of my rv.
You can use that to get all the vehicle and trailer wieghts. I'm gonna build one, but I've bled brakes before so I don't foresee the problems with air that Geek had. 😂
Interesting idea, but tape gets wrapped so it tightens with threading, and don’t touch it with oily gloves.
In the next video we will repair a vice.
well i glad to see you didnt cut out the learning experience
you should have used a T fitting instead of a 90. to fill attach the big ends of 2 bell fittings together this can be standard plumbing pipe as you will be removing it before use. to act as a reservoir attach one small end to the T on the device. on the other end of the reservoir put some other kind of pump. I have used a grease gun air hose almost anything will work with enough preacher to make the cylinder expand. with the reservoir at the highest point and the cylinder at the lowest Fill the reservoir with oil; compress the cylinder if it is expanded. expand the cylinder, relieve the presser push the cylinder back in and repeat a few times. like bleeding a brake system. remove the reservoir and plug the T,
Karm: excellent idea.
worked on or around hydraulics for years you pick this stuff up after a wile.
Pretty sure you wrapped your Teflon tape the wrong way
What happen to the channel? We need more videos.
Another way to avoid all the air would be to begin filling it with the piston fully compressed, then draw it down a little at a time, filling as you go. Just keep your fill hole as the highest point at all times and air shouldn't be such a problem.
As another viewer suggested, filling it submerged would be an ideal scenario, but there are still ways to get around air in hydraulics, even from within a nitrogen oxygen environment. :)
great video, always good to know what can go wrong, this is how we really learn!!
Suggest you compress the piston 1/16 inch before bleeding. When you feel it’s purged of air, the volume displaced by screwing in the elbow won’t be enough to fully advance the piston. And use wrenches rather than channel locks, you’re making me crazy. Otherwise, good project.
why not just pressurize it and the ram would just pop out? Wood screw in machine threads? With a start like this there is no way there is good info in this video. Sorry. Can't continue on.
You want it done but don't care if it's right, geez... btw, figured out you didn't know what you were doing way before the 13 minute mark
18:11 Famous last words... Then proceeds to beat on the spindle handle. Hey at least he's using a dead blow they never said anything about not using a dead blow mallet :) "Never use a hammer, pipe extension or cheater bar on spindle handle of vise" (Wilton).
If the vise frame cracked he would have determined the failure /breaking point of the vise frame. ...in pounds. usefull information in some situations......... Isnt there a term for that ? somthng like yeild point
Great video and thanks for making this AND leaving in the problems/issues you had - I think it makes the video more legitimate as the person from China says below - it's how we learn.
Y r u putting Teflon tape on a flare fitting? You just said make sure you have a 5ton rated fitting. What's the point of having a 5-ton rated fitting if you're not going to install it properly. now that all the pressure or at least most of it is going to be applied to your Teflon tape and threads. Sure to slowly leak now. Your preventing the force to be applied to the flair matting surface of the fitting. Now the pressure resides on the tape and threads themsels.
5:29 FYI for anyone dealing with air inside their system like this poor guy (we've all been there)...don't be afraid to LIGHTLY / GENTLY manually actuate the cylinder by pushing it in and pulling it back out a few times...with the valve off as your filling it. You will notice that the tiniest amount of force will cause a dramatic in/out movement for the oil and will quickly flush any air out. Don't forget your safety glasses and maybe some shop rags below just for any excess oil that squirts out (think arterial spray from any slasher movie, also a hydraulic system of sorts).
Anyway, wiggle the cylinder in and out as you fill and you'll notice if draws in the oil versus you forcing it to displace the air via ramming the nozzle, waiting it out or mashing it with pliers to vibrate it out. You'll not only remove all the air this way, but you'll also know when it's full because air bubbles stop bubbling and oil can be seen smoothly moving in and out. Try it! It is such a time saver and much more effective.
Still, this is a great video showing a creative use for these short body rams and is much cheaper than buying a new press with a gauge or tapping into the press itself to add one.
GG: A great demonstration and build. As you proved, teflon tape doesn't stick to oiled surfaces. I observed that you do not calculate the volume of the cylinder. In a practical sense, we may not need to know the volume of oil as it may not affect the final PSI on the moveable disk. Purging the oil between the gauge and the cylinder inlet is tricky. A view named Karm, has the right idea. Finally, I did wonder why you were building this gadget; now I know. I'm trying to think of what other practical use I could put this to. There are electronic sensors for PSI. I could hook up the short body ram to a remote part of my car frame and measure weight between body and frame. Hmmm....how about measuring the weight on a tailer hitch? Now that I could use.
You might be book smart but YOU ARE NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED
It doesn’t provide you with a cushion it will actually be spongy and read wrong because you don’t know what you’re doing, Like in the video when you said now we know that you don’t know what you are doing which was actually wrong because I knew way before in something like five minutes!
It is obvious the author is far from being knowledgeable about what is taking place in the video. The lack of control of hand tools, improper use of hand tools, and not acknowledging proper sequence of events raises red flags in most reputable establishments. These potentially hazard conditions are being presented to innocent individuals at the mercy of this botched video tactics. I closed this embarrassing attempt of ignorance and hope most reading this would focus on the misrepresented content and not my honest opinion.
Thanks for the great idea, and for leaving what didn't work in the video. Showing that helps as much as anything. I was able to screw a 4-inch copper extension fitting into mine, fill it with hydraulic oil and then push the piston out with an air nozzle. I pushed the piston back in 3 or 4 times to purge the air, adding oil in the copper extension each time and then pushed it out with compressed air each time. I screwed the gauge on without putting oil in it, and it worked perfectly.
Filling the cylinder while pulling it open leaves you free of air bubbles, much faster. Use the vacuum it creates to your advantage. Took about 10 minutes total to assemble, super easy.
agreed, if you very gently work the cylinder back and forth just a little bit, it will push the air out until all that is getting pumped in and out is the oil. take it slow and gentle and should be able to be purged. when i first started i was moving the cylinder too much and pushed out more oil than i needed to
I didn't have any trouble doing mine I pulled the plug out held it with the fill hole pointed up slowly filled while pulling the ram out .once the ram was fully extended push in a millimeter watching for bubbles if you see bubbles press a Lil more pull out slowly again making sure not to allow air in fill hole
I wonder if there is a way to pull a vacuum on the system.
Please let us know what the link is for obtainig one of those gauges.
To be more precise you should actually measure the id of the cylinder to get the area. The seals on the piston are part of of the pistons area, too.
Meaningless, pressure is pressure.
You are absolutely correct. I'll bet if you measured the bore, calculated the area, then the pressure at 20 tons applied then you would get exactly the 9250 PSI as shown on the Harbor Freight box instead of the 9144 PSI from Garage Geek's calculation.
I'm doing basically the exact opposite for my project. My idea is to measure pull force in rigging systems (rope tension). I have a 12" stroke × 2" bore hydraulic cylinder. The rod diameter is 1.25". So it works out to 1.91sq/inches of area the fluid will act on (Bore area minus rod area) I'll leave the base port open and put a gauge on the rod port and fill it with oil (fully collapsed). So when the cylinder is put under tension the gauge will give me a pressure that I can convert to lbs/force. Ex: 1800PSI × 1.91 = 3,438 pounds
y dnot u use the tool heroine addicts use to insert heroine?? you can get them for free on siddewalks in philadelphia
What's wrong with your camera, the motion smoothing made me nauseous
Fill it with the cylinder out. Could vent air bubbles and add the last bit as shown
Part numbers for the parts that you used as well as the sources?
you say at the beggining of the video that 5000 psi gauge should be good to 10 ton jack , and then you install the same 5000 psi gauge to a 20 ton jack........can you explain which one is correct?
PSI pound square inch , 1 pound times 1 inch is 1 pound he needs to know how much fluid he is using in oz , 2 .36 + 1.5 = 354 pounds his reading is way off , In a Bench vice your not going to go over 400 psi without breaking the vice . his reading was 2500 his math 10 thousand PSI . Wrong The Length of the Pipes the Size in ID will all have to go into his equation . If he filled in in a bucked submerged no air , but still has to know fluid ounce for correct measurement of force
This was a cool idea. I'm making a 50t shop press so I'll make one too.
How about installing a bleed valve?
4:47 that kind of action right there. Tremendous
couldn't use brake fluid
Another great video. Liked and subscribed. Looking forward to more!
Thanks for sharing. I need similar tool to measure the compression between two plates in my experimental setup. I would like to ask if such devices are commercially available or I need to make them in house. I don't know the name of the tool that I need to purchase but the intent is to measure the compression force between two rigid plates in a setup. I can provide you with more information if you need. Any help is highly appreciated.
www.ametektest.com/products/force-gauges/erichsen-hydraulic-force-gauges
I haven't actually found more than one manufacturer, and they are pretty expensive for me. :(
Oh, and here for very small forces: shop.pimoroni.com/products/force-sensing-resistor-0-5-circle?variant=385715030&gclid=CjwKCAiAz-7UBRBAEiwAVrz-9e_NnLMmbuoNjc5Qredq5O3aR-z1KeK8KxHqwY5dmo_gPnC65w7SWxoCv7kQAvD_BwE
That was painful to watch. Start with the gauge hole uppermost and the piston in. Attach a funnel to the gauge hole and put in some oil, then pull the piston out and push back in again. Repeat until there are no air bubbles. With the piston out, remove the funnel, fill the gauge, attach and snug up a little. Force the piston in a little, then loosen it to release any entrapped air, re-tighten and you're good to go.
lol you need help
why dont you make more videos
I would have used 1/4" NPTM to JIC-F-4 (P/N 6505-04-04) straight for the ram fitting and then 1/4" NPTF to a JIC-M-4 (P/N 2502-04-04) elbow for gauge. This will make it easier to bleed and you will be able to set the gauge angle to anything you want. One comment about the video: It always drives me nuts when someone is trying to teach people and don't teach them to use the right tool for the job. Using Channel locks for everything is not a good example. You don't want to teach bad habits.
Go back to school your math is wrong , your shop Vice may have done 400 PSI before it broke . the Oil chamber has to be a reading in fluid oz the pipe ID all the way to the gauge 1 inch square is 1 pound you have less that 2 x 1/2 surface area and depth . your vice did 2500 PSI your math was 10,000. the 20 ton jack did 5000 you say it did 40 thousand ?? BS I have a Valve spring tester 200$ in my 8 inch vice I be lucky to get it past 300 pounds square inch it test up to 800 PSI I think your vice did 340 PSI your camber reading 2.36 you did not add depth of the chamber or the length of the pipe or ID of the pipe . that is why a pressure plate for valve springs start at 200 $
www.skylighter.com/blogs/how-to-make-fireworks/arbor-press-force-gauge
11:06 wrong direction
Thank you for the info and effort.
should have compressed the cylinder almost to the bottom of the stroke then fill the volume, then when you screw the gauge in it will displace the piston and as long as the piston doesn't bottom out to the end of the stroke it will work fine.
BLEEDER VALVE!!
Why not just load the jack with pressure and measure the diameter once it is pushed out, so you don't have to remove the whole thing
Entertaining video. I would have tried slowly loosening the fitting at the gauge while it was under pressure from the vise until fluid started coming out.
Great demonstration.
But not using correct way for using thread tape.
You do not want to cheap out on high pressure hydraulics............Remember, no fitting. Thanks.
Nice vice
Good effort but sloppy and backward job on teflon tape. Easiest way to remember is to hold fitting in left hand and wrap from underneath over top this way the tape will self tighten as the fitting is made up rather than raking itself off.
great video but you wrapped the teflon tape the wrong direction
Yes he did, and You call that 'wrapped' hahaha!!!
He's south of the equator, so teflon and toilet water go backwards.
10:30 A wise man once told me it's pronounced TEE-FLAUN tape :)
I expected so many perverted jokes about filling the oil.
I like the slight movements of the camera when you move from one shot to the other because it makes it look like I'm taking part in the action at hand. It's like playing C.O.D
Try using a tee with a plug instead of the elbow. Then use a vacuum pump, similar to bleed Auto brakes to suck the air out through the air separator. With oil in the separator and the entire device upside-down release the vacuum and let the oil drawn in. Then install the plug.
Great concept.
Not calculated correctly. 4.36 square inches at 10k psi is 21.85 tons of force. 5000 psi gauge only gives you 1/2 that range. Pounds pressure x square inches = pounds total force. Divide by 2000 to get tons.
How do you get 21.85? 10000 x 4.36 = 43600 / 2000 = 21.8. Just wondering if I'm calculating something wrong here. Thanks in advance.
13:59 turn the gauge upside down and tap the air out... otherwise you have to vacuum the air out of the system.
Sir, watching you is painfull,
Just stumbled upon you're channel Garage Geek, really digging the content here..But where've you been the past year+? ..bummer
those gauges can be threaded into the hydraulic jack directly
Where and how much was the large gauge?
Thanks for sharing your great idea!
Thanks for the nice video!
what are your yields like? lol
Got your lunch room gloves on. 😂
Тефлон на фитинг мотай наоборот -клоквайз, гуд лак!
Surprised you didn't break that vice in two!! 😂
Just drill & tap a hole in either the elbow or the base of the gauge fitting for a bleed port, use a fine thread tap, and as long of a set screw as possible and thread sealer to plug the hole.
No sealer needed (and sealers don't work in oil) if a bleeder screw is used, either a brake bleeder type or a notched type with a sealing washer, brake type would be best..
And just Hope the set screw is rated for 10000PSI?
I can't help but feel this was kind of sexual
wow, just....really?
Fun video, but good idea,
Clever idea.
Keep up your good work.
Lol love it. Love the music you did.
I almost cried when I saw him clamp that cylinder in his vice,...at least protect the finish ! Then using grip pliers on a nut/fitting,.. then trying to 'force in' hydraulic oil without an air relief,...etc. etc.
Oh my!
BUT his initial thinking was O.K.,...I guess.
a little air pressure dummy