Thanks for watching! With the lathe finally (and properly) set up I'm excited to dive into the next machining project. Join me on April 15th at 10am Eastern.
Quick tip to improve your measurements with micrometers: Those (usually) black plates on the arms are there for a reason. They're typically made out of plastic and hence act as a heat insulator. As far as I know you're supposed to only hold them on those plates so you avoid the metal arm heating up which could potentially distort multiple consecutive readings. Might sound ridiculous but at the end of the day we're talking about very precise measurements that tool is designed for.
@@anticom1337 This really is only a thing when you are making measurements for long periods of time. A guy in a QC lab holding a micrometer for hours measuring parts. Touching the micrometer for 30 seconds every 10 minutes won't affect it a measurable amount. The garage shop not being kept at a perfect 20C would affect the measurements more.
I appreciate you sharing your mistakes/shortcomings. A lot of channels just jump directly to a finished, to perfect dimension, part. I like following along in your thought process and then reflecting on what may have been the issue. Coming back and addressing the issue is where real learning happens. Your vids are well put together as well! Can't wait for the next one!
I’ve been binge watching a lot of your videos recently, as I just found the channel a few weeks ago. Great work and really nice videos - very much appreciated. You know, I’m sure this is exactly what your grandfather hoped you would do with all of these tools. Well done.
Very nice compact video format. No excessive talking, no advertising for questionable products and focus on the essentials. I love such videos. Greetins from Germany, Raik
You know what, dude? You would make a KILLING as an engine restorer and builder as well as a precision motor builder. Your love for absolute dimensional accuracy is infectious lol.
I think you will get to the stage of completing a project without a having to do a side project. That would be perfectionism that many men dream of but never reach.
Every time I go into my workshop to do some woodturning and spend half the time making new mounts for my dust collection hose or sanding pad storage, I now have a side project counter in my head. Thanks for that!
Good morning. Don’t worry about the length of your videos. This isn’t Tik Tok. I really enjoy your videos. I learn even though I may have seen multiple people perform the same process. Thank you.
The unforseen sideprojects hits so hard to home. Im building my own machineshop now, and have a love for old machines, so the list of shop equipment that needs to be fixed before i can start to fix things with the equipment is neverending. But lets not kid ourselves, we love it. Im the only one in my family with these interests, so im building a shop from scratch, and it makes me smile that one day maybe my kid wil inherit mine as you have done. Keep it up!
Oh absolutely. Getting a shop in proper working order is half the fun in having the shop to begin with. Hopefully your kid takes an interest young. I did and was fortunate to grow up around these machines. So I couldn't imagine a life without them really. Thanks for the support!
I admire your sharing your knowledge and the great family connection to machining. F. Y. I. With the removable section of ways it identifies the lathe as a bridge lathe. Your grandfather was very wise to select this lathe as this feature greatly expands it's capabilities.
Oh man I truly can relate. This endless sequence of setups and tune-ups to ... drum roll... failure. Nice pieces, as paperweights. Love your way of sharing your journey. Quite the privilege being on the receiving end.
Thanks so much for sharing all aspects of your journey in getting your/your grandfathers shop up and running again! The description you gave of leveling the lathe is going to be referenced many times by me in setting up the lathe I just bought, and I’m sure by many others going forward as they do also! I look forward to each of your videos, and truly enjoy all the aspects in which you follow this old school profession!!
Very instructive video. Did you check the run-out on the headstock dead centre? Personally I think you get a more accurate result by placing a piece of round steel in the 3 jaw and turning a 60 degree dead centre. This way it eliminates any manufacturing errors.
@@larrybud Hi Larry The best starting point is that everything manufactured is not exact. Everything has a manufacturing tolerance. The better parts have a smaller tolerance. On my lathe if I remove the chuck I can insert a MT6 to MT4 reducing bush. Then a MT4 dead centre can be inserted into the bush. The potential manufacturing errors are many. Firstly the MT6 must be machined concentric to the axis of rotation of the headstock. The MT6 to MT4 tapers on the adaptor must be concentric. Also the ground point of the dead centre must be concentric with the MT4 taper. To eliminate all these potential errors, machine your own dead centre taper on a piece of stock held in the chuck. This process elimates all these potential errors. This taper is good as long as it is not removed from the chuck. Once removed it must be remachined. Hope this helps.
Very informative and entertaining. What you are doing is not at all trivial. You are straddling the line between machinist and tool maker. High precision collet blocks are very demanding. Thanks for the excellent video.
Just come across your channel (TY algorithm!). Working through your back catalogue and living the content. I trained on all of these machines as an apprentice but no longer work in engineering, it's great to see them again! ... and your comment about keeping metal tolerances with woodwork was too accurate 😅 same!
Nice work using a "way board" when you change the chuck or handle heavy stock. Many used lathes I have seen have dings, dents and outright gouges taken out of the ways underneath the head stock. Grandpa taught you well and smiles down on you when you put that piece of wood in there.
Very timely. After a drawn out teardown, clean, and refurbishment, my lathe will need to undergo the same. Enjoying your content and presentation style.
Very interesting and thanks for sharing!! I’m not used to working in such tight tolerances, but I certainly appreciate the effort and your willingness to share how you got there.
I hope Adam Savage @tested has seen this channel. I feel like his hunt for decimals matches the precision that you show in all your work on this channel, really love your content.
That's the most simple and easy to understand video on leveling the lathe I have seen. Will follow this when I do mine. Thanks for your awesome content!
Thank you! I would also recommend turning the longest test bar you can to give a better indication of the bed distortion. The way I adjusted based only on readings from each end gets close but only loosely implies what is happening in the middle. I've had small alignment issues with the tailstock since doing this project.
Being an engineer does not grant the ability to instruct. You, sir, were blessed with the gene to educate. Concise; realistically sized 'bites' of the process; bang on communication level to reach non-engineer intelligence types. Exceptional job. I've come late to the party. Started from your first video and working my way through. Two questions for you 1. Did you have to add extra concrete below the original slab at areas where the heavy machinery was to be placed? 2. Tailstock alignment problem could be the point that you drilled into the part as it was done pre-alignment. (sorry if that had already been pointed out already. Haven't read through all 286 comments)
Wow thank you so much! It's been an adjustment for me personally to whittle the information down to what's important so I appreciate the compliment. For your questions: no extra concrete under the machines just the original slab which I would guess is around 4-6 inches. Also I think the tailstock was out of alignment from some previous questionable adjustments. And while I did center drill in that position, taking the skim pass on both ends of the test bar removed any eccentricity effects that might have caused
This is a well timed video - I'm about to move my 9000 lb. lathe into my new shop and I'll need to level it. I had no idea how to start, but now I have some basic guidelines. Thanks, and excellent video!
That's great! Thank you. If you haven't already, I would recommend checking out some of the other heavy hitters videos as well. I gloss over a lot of nuanced points. And there are also different approaches/preferences. Good luck!
Great job and the honesty is refreshing. I get the feeling that chasing precision will gobble up hours in the shop producing nothing. Nice setup though, lucky man.
I am absolutely in love with this channel. While I currently don't have any room for a workshop of my own, that won't always be the case. (And when I am in such a position, no doubt I'll be able to look towards this channel for inspiration as to what to do.) I can absolutely feel the influence of Clickspring and This Old Tony here - and why not? They're amazing machinists. I was going to make one tiny suggestion: providing dimensions in both imperial and metric measurements would be greatly appreciated, for folks like me that can't visualise what a thou looks like, but somehow can easily imagine 0.005mm. Keep up the amazing work! :D
Loving all these videos and the flow they have from one to the other is perfect! It has really sparked my interest in machining and I’ve managed to find some courses relatively close to home that I’ll be looking to do in the near future, thanks!!
I was concerned, being April Fools (see This Old Tony today's post). But it was a real and very informative post. Living vicariously your adventures setting that dream shop!
This was neat to watch! I have to deal with part deflection all the time, as the acrylic parts I'm CNC machining are only 150 microns (~0.006") thick and 100 microns (~0.004") wide. Machining a relatively large surface at 150 microns thick is extremely do accurately, and I've had to do a lot of adjusting of our milling machine and my toolpaths to make it work. However, it's refreshing to see what all goes into getting similar results on a much larger scale and with manual machines. Keep up the good work!
I'm blown away by the scale of parts you are talking about. I wouldn't have guessed anything that small was made by traditional means. I imagine these are purpose built machines though.
@@InheritanceMachining Yeah, I was blown away with it too until I was the one who had to do the modeling, programming, and machining. Haha! It never ceases to amaze me how tough something this small can be. I can't get into too many details, but these parts have mechanical latches built into them that are closed by a pair of forceps. It's incredible to latch them under a microscope and see something so small flex so much without breaking. They even make an audible click when they latch - similar to the sound of clipping a fingernail! Also, the machine I'm using is made by MDA Precision. It's by no means an inexpensive machine, but it's hardly a wildly-expensive purpose-built machine. Take a look at their website if you're curious! Also, feel free to ask me questions about it as well. It's fun to talk shop with other machinists.
Oh I'm familiar with medical manufacturing propriety lol but I get what you are saying. Sounds cool :) I just checked them out. I see what you mean. Not completely unreasonable for a manufacturing application. Especially in the medical field where I imagine the sales margins are pretty high.
@@InheritanceMachining Yeah, we have their TN5-V8-TC8 5-axis mill. We optioned a few things on top of the base model for extra precision - like the glass slides. They give the machine accuracy down to 1 micron. My coworker and I had to make use of that last week to do some manual machining on a pair of forceps that we had 3D printed. We had our surgical microscope swung over the machine enclosure, and, with my coworker watching through the microscope, I was manually jogging the machine 1 micron at a time to cut grooves into the forceps with an 0.008" diameter ball mill. The forceps are 316L stainless, so I had to manually mist some of our coolant onto it to get the tool to survive. Haha! It's interesting that you mention sales margins, because our product hasn't yet made it to market. I'm working on something that started as graduate research at the University of Kentucky. It gained enough ground to get grant funding - which is how I was hired - and that's what paid for the 5-axis mill. We've just recently transitioned into private funding, but we've got a long way to go before we're selling our product. If you're curious about what we're making, send me an email at Jay.LB7.Russell@gmail.com, and I can share our company website with you.
Very nice! That's one thing that's always a struggle in my shop. The concrete isn't very thick and was not smoothed properly. There are literally 1/4" drag lines... Best of luck to you!
I’ve had make straight parts on a crooked lathe before and it’s a pain. Essentially I’d cut the part normally until I got about 0.030” of final size. Take what is essentially a finishing cut at 0.015” depth of cut. Then measure along the shaft with the micrometer. Depending on the accuracy, add Sharpie marks as the diameter increases each thou or half thou. In the best case scenario, the diameter monotonically increases toward toward the end of the cut. Then take the final cut, adjusting the cross side with each passing sharpie mark. Did I mention it’s a pain the ass? Great video by the way.
I still like your style and considering i get bored easily that is a compliment 😆 Funny how one always gets sidetracked by things one needs to do before one can proceed. My latest is making a three point telescoping gauge for measuring shallow recesses, and after a couple of weeks of playtime and three iterations i think im there. Chances are that now i have done it i bet i don't get the job i made it for again.😣
Great videos mate! If your angles are good you can just shim the small end up to get the bore parallel and grind the top surface, taking it easy. Clean shim stock will keep that angle correct and once you have the first 2/3 sides done you can then place it down flat and grind the opposing faces. Can then measure your deviation from centreline and correct that on the appropriate faces. Of course, there is the somewhat significant downside of no side project in this method...
Thanks! I considered going this route but in some instances the deviation is less than the thinnest shim stock I have. I'm planning to use something called the step method on the grinder to correct this. The angles between faces are still a bit off as well, but I've got something in the works to correct both issues. Its a side project of sorts haha
On a positive note, Side project count is dropping, LOL! Congrats on hitting 10K so soon, keep up the awesome content and great effort on your editing. Cheers, John
There is too much oil on the Z axis ways. Beneath the front and back of these ways you will find 4 plates or adjusting gibbs. Clean the ways, gibbs, and/or plates very well then adjust gibbs/plates to .002" clearance between the bottom of the ways to the top of the gibbs/plates. ( A Chinese machine had plates I needed to shim and/or machine to reach the .002" clearance.) What you are seeing with the deviation on top of the centering bar is the entire carriage floating on a moat of oil. This float differs with the speed of the carriage as well as changing direction resulting in what you are seeing, the cutter tip position floating. Oil should be a sort of sheen. Also, use 1-2-3 blocks across the way flats and level off of those, not the top of the cross slide.
Love your " No Dog Level" They are made in Lexington KY and made for the Electrical Field. The one I have is over 20 years old and has been great. P.S. Congratulations on 10K subs, Keep up the great work
Recent subscriber - Love your videos. They are very calm and easy to watch. For your setup on the grinder, what about putting an adjustable parallel or machinist jack under the far end of the precision bar to keep that end from sagging? You could put an indicator on the head of the grinder to check that you are level/flat to be certain.
Much appreciated! I actually did exactly that. Maybe it didn’t come through well from the angle of the camera. I think the problem is that the nut side of the block has clearance on the shaft so the block itself is unssuported
3:12 I have to ask how a engineer / machinist ended up with an electrician's level? As far as I know it was an electrician that started No Dog tools and when I ordered my level you could chose the angles you wanted. We use it for conduit bending accuracy.
10:38 Tailstock higher by 0.0005" : This is usual for lathes which are not very worn. The tolerance for tailstock ht rel to headstock is unilateral, ie plus something, minus nothing, so that initial wear ("running in" ) actually makes the situation better. And the usual upper limit for a toolroom lathe (maximum height diff) is 0.02mm which is 0.0008". The other most notable unilateral tolerance is the perpendicularity of the cross slide: (angle between x axis and z axis): The tolerance is such that any deviation from zero will result in facing a surface hollow (so that the face will not rock on a flat plane). The max deviation for a toolroom lathe produces 0.02mm hollow per 300mm in diameter (minimum zero)
You will find that every time you move the tail stock on any lathe it will change the taper or alignment. So when turning multiple shafts of the same length once adjusted, it is a good idea not to move the tailstock if possible. Every time you do it can introduce error and it will need adjusted again. Something you may find interesting. I have worked in many shops over the years Lathe bed twisting is a common method used to cope with bed wear.
I am finding that out about the tailstock with my current project. Keeping the necessary wrenches handy... I do find that interesting. Luckily my lathe is pretty lightly used so I don't think wear is going to be a concern quite yet.
Thanks! Yes I would, though I have no idea what the brand is. It's all in Chinese and is over 20 years old. I would imagine as long as the bubble is adjustable and the resolution is correct you will be good. I'm sure quality and flatness of the casting plays a part too but for the type of precision I'm dealing with I'll wait until that becomes more important.
@@InheritanceMachining that's fortunate! It always sucks so badly when you do have a job that must go out and the equipment won't cooperate. I'd love to hear what you uncover about the collet blocks problem. Sounds to me like the entire table, under the grinding wheel, is likely tilted. You line up everything on the table perfectly but the blocks are still coming out tapered. If I'm right, at least it's something you should be able to adjust out - hopefully..... I love the whole machining universe; whatever you dream up you can make. My paradise would be an airplane hanger full to the rafters with every imaginable machine tool and a few like-minded friends to work on projects with. Love your stuff and I totally appreciate the extra effort that goes into making these videos! Since EVERYTHING in a machine shop is made out of rubber, it's quite the miracle that we're able to make anything at all. On that note, maybe our ability to make stuff is proof that miracles are real..... Please keep sharing. Thanks! :)
@@artmckay6704 Thanks, Art. I can relate from an engineering perspective. Always seems that when the design deadline approaches, the computer starts freezing up and crashing haha. I'm fairly certain that the problem I'm having with the collet blocks was a less than rigid setup. I resurfaced the mag chuck in the restoration video so I'm not concerned that it is out of level. I'm like you. I could spend every waking moment in a shop. But i guess I'll keep taking a break to put together these videos ;) Thanks again for the support!
@@InheritanceMachining Well, I'm confident you'll figure it out and make perfect collet blocks! Yup, we gotta stay in the human game and at least socialize a little! :)
You must be going through a huge amount of rust eater at the moment.. You have an optimism that I appreciate. I have seen the other video's but I find myself windering how many times you could adjust the collet blocks without having to start again.
Surprisingly not too much rust remover. I think I've only used about 2 gallons so far. The collet blocks were like the game "how many licks to get to the center of a tootsie pop" 😂
Nicely done. Rule of thumb, never place your ding ding where it has the chance to be ripped off. meaning your hand should never be anywhere near the item being machined.
Excellent presentation. I just checked my lathe after being in my new shop for about five years now and I was pleased to find it was still dead nuts on. Can I ask what you are using for rust removal and cold bluing? Looked like the chemicals that you are using did a good job. Mike
That's really impressive. I think mine has already shifted a little and needs to be looked at again. For rust removal just good old Evaporust. Then the blueing kit I use is from Casewell plating. They have two options for sealers, and I chose the one that dries to the touch. Thanks for watching!
Making precise hexagonal 5c collet holders can be a pain when starting with uncalibrated equipment. It makes me grateful for our lathe with live tooling and c-axis interpolation. :D
@@InheritanceMachining Oh for sure. I've been a tool maker for about 8 years now and I know I also prefer the old fashion way. It is just a different kind of satisfaction you cant get by doing it the fancy CAD/CAM way. Unfortunately, the company makes more money the new way though. Hah.
Thanks for watching! With the lathe finally (and properly) set up I'm excited to dive into the next machining project. Join me on April 15th at 10am Eastern.
Quick tip to improve your measurements with micrometers: Those (usually) black plates on the arms are there for a reason. They're typically made out of plastic and hence act as a heat insulator. As far as I know you're supposed to only hold them on those plates so you avoid the metal arm heating up which could potentially distort multiple consecutive readings. Might sound ridiculous but at the end of the day we're talking about very precise measurements that tool is designed for.
@@anticom1337 Makes perfect sense to me. I've learned this is the reason for the black plastic coverings on precision levels as well. Thanks!
@@anticom1337 This really is only a thing when you are making measurements for long periods of time. A guy in a QC lab holding a micrometer for hours measuring parts. Touching the micrometer for 30 seconds every 10 minutes won't affect it a measurable amount. The garage shop not being kept at a perfect 20C would affect the measurements more.
пол покрась жидким стеклом
@@anticom1337⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴
I appreciate you sharing your mistakes/shortcomings. A lot of channels just jump directly to a finished, to perfect dimension, part. I like following along in your thought process and then reflecting on what may have been the issue. Coming back and addressing the issue is where real learning happens. Your vids are well put together as well! Can't wait for the next one!
Thank you! I know what you mean. I figure it’s more relatable this way. I also want to make it clear I’m no expert. Keeps the phony police at bay 😉
I totally agree with you. Very well said 😊❤
Plus we all learn more for the problem solving
Nice
You have the courage and integrity to show us how much you have learnt from failing. Amazing video, and mark of an exceptional human being 👏🏾
Wow! Thank you so much!
I’ve been binge watching a lot of your videos recently, as I just found the channel a few weeks ago. Great work and really nice videos - very much appreciated. You know, I’m sure this is exactly what your grandfather hoped you would do with all of these tools. Well done.
Thank you so much!
Honestly, the mistakes and attempts at fixing them are just as satisfying to watch, and way more educational. Thanks for taking us behind the scenes.
Very nice compact video format. No excessive talking, no advertising for questionable products and focus on the essentials.
I love such videos.
Greetins from Germany, Raik
Why thank you! I'm trying to make content I would enjoy so I'm glad it's translating!
I'll be honest. Your intro music is a big part of why I keep coming back.
You know what, dude? You would make a KILLING as an engine restorer and builder as well as a precision motor builder. Your love for absolute dimensional accuracy is infectious lol.
The amount of knowledge that is required to me a machinist is amazing
For real. I'm just scratching the surface honestly
I think you will get to the stage of completing a project without a having to do a side project. That would be perfectionism that many men dream of but never reach.
Every time I go into my workshop to do some woodturning and spend half the time making new mounts for my dust collection hose or sanding pad storage, I now have a side project counter in my head. Thanks for that!
😂 You're welcome!
Good morning. Don’t worry about the length of your videos. This isn’t Tik Tok. I really enjoy your videos. I learn even though I may have seen multiple people perform the same process.
Thank you.
Thank you! Did I something somewhere about the length of the videos?
What an awesome video! Really nice editing, nice lighting, very nice narration and a extremely nice topic.
Please don’t stop doing side project!!!
Thank you! They are unavoidable, so not a chance!
Wow, 33 years as a toolmaker and I learned something today.
The unforseen sideprojects hits so hard to home. Im building my own machineshop now, and have a love for old machines, so the list of shop equipment that needs to be fixed before i can start to fix things with the equipment is neverending. But lets not kid ourselves, we love it.
Im the only one in my family with these interests, so im building a shop from scratch, and it makes me smile that one day maybe my kid wil inherit mine as you have done.
Keep it up!
Oh absolutely. Getting a shop in proper working order is half the fun in having the shop to begin with. Hopefully your kid takes an interest young. I did and was fortunate to grow up around these machines. So I couldn't imagine a life without them really. Thanks for the support!
I admire your sharing your knowledge and the great family connection to machining. F. Y. I. With the removable section of ways it identifies the lathe as a bridge lathe. Your grandfather was very wise to select this lathe as this feature greatly expands it's capabilities.
Ooh I've never heard that before. I've yet to need it myself but it's there when I do need it. Thanks!
@@InheritanceMachining it allows for larger fixture plates an engine lathe could not use. Easier mounting for odd or larger work.
Oh man I truly can relate. This endless sequence of setups and tune-ups to ... drum roll... failure.
Nice pieces, as paperweights.
Love your way of sharing your journey.
Quite the privilege being on the receiving end.
My pleasure!
Perhaps the best lathe leveling videos I have seen. Clear concise and nicely done video. Thank you!
Wow, thank you!
Thanks so much for sharing all aspects of your journey in getting your/your grandfathers shop up and running again! The description you gave of leveling the lathe is going to be referenced many times by me in setting up the lathe I just bought, and I’m sure by many others going forward as they do also!
I look forward to each of your videos, and truly enjoy all the aspects in which you follow this old school profession!!
I'm glad you're liking the videos and even finding them helpful. Good luck with the lathe!
Very instructive video. Did you check the run-out on the headstock dead centre? Personally I think you get a more accurate result by placing a piece of round steel in the 3 jaw and turning a 60 degree dead centre. This way it eliminates any manufacturing errors.
Can you explain further for us non-machinists?
@@larrybud Hi Larry The best starting point is that everything manufactured is not exact. Everything has a manufacturing tolerance. The better parts have a smaller tolerance. On my lathe if I remove the chuck I can insert a MT6 to MT4 reducing bush. Then a MT4 dead centre can be inserted into the bush. The potential manufacturing errors are many. Firstly the MT6 must be machined concentric to the axis of rotation of the headstock. The MT6 to MT4 tapers on the adaptor must be concentric. Also the ground point of the dead centre must be concentric with the MT4 taper. To eliminate all these potential errors, machine your own dead centre taper on a piece of stock held in the chuck. This process elimates all these potential errors. This taper is good as long as it is not removed from the chuck. Once removed it must be remachined. Hope this helps.
Dial indicator on a magnet base is so useful! Thanks starrett!
Very informative and entertaining. What you are doing is not at all trivial. You are straddling the line between machinist and tool maker. High precision collet blocks are very demanding. Thanks for the excellent video.
So I am learning. Thanks again, Bruce!
I wish I had your patience and attention to detail. You and Fireball tools are my favorite
Sites.
Just come across your channel (TY algorithm!). Working through your back catalogue and living the content. I trained on all of these machines as an apprentice but no longer work in engineering, it's great to see them again!
... and your comment about keeping metal tolerances with woodwork was too accurate 😅 same!
Nice work using a "way board" when you change the chuck or handle heavy stock. Many used lathes I have seen have dings, dents and outright gouges taken out of the ways underneath the head stock. Grandpa taught you well and smiles down on you when you put that piece of wood in there.
Believe it or not that doesn’t come from him. Had a few commenters scold me in one of my earlier videos haha
Very timely. After a drawn out teardown, clean, and refurbishment, my lathe will need to undergo the same. Enjoying your content and presentation style.
Much appreciated! It's not too bad to do. One advantage is you get to use the machine while also aligning it. So it's still fun
Very interesting and thanks for sharing!! I’m not used to working in such tight tolerances, but I certainly appreciate the effort and your willingness to share how you got there.
Thank you! Currently my tolerance standards are beyond my abilities… But I’ll get there eventually!
I hope Adam Savage @tested has seen this channel.
I feel like his hunt for decimals matches the precision that you show in all your work on this channel, really love your content.
Wouldn't that be cool. Thank you!
That's the most simple and easy to understand video on leveling the lathe I have seen. Will follow this when I do mine.
Thanks for your awesome content!
Thank you! I would also recommend turning the longest test bar you can to give a better indication of the bed distortion. The way I adjusted based only on readings from each end gets close but only loosely implies what is happening in the middle. I've had small alignment issues with the tailstock since doing this project.
@@InheritanceMachining i see, I have a small lathe and rarely do long parts, but will keep that in mind, thanks!
Could also press 2 pieces of large diamiter onto opposite sides of a small diamiter bar to make a light weight tail stock align bar
Being an engineer does not grant the ability to instruct. You, sir, were blessed with the gene to educate. Concise; realistically sized 'bites' of the process; bang on communication level to reach non-engineer intelligence types. Exceptional job.
I've come late to the party. Started from your first video and working my way through. Two questions for you
1. Did you have to add extra concrete below the original slab at areas where the heavy machinery was to be placed?
2. Tailstock alignment problem could be the point that you drilled into the part as it was done pre-alignment. (sorry if that had already been pointed out already. Haven't read through all 286 comments)
Wow thank you so much! It's been an adjustment for me personally to whittle the information down to what's important so I appreciate the compliment.
For your questions: no extra concrete under the machines just the original slab which I would guess is around 4-6 inches. Also I think the tailstock was out of alignment from some previous questionable adjustments. And while I did center drill in that position, taking the skim pass on both ends of the test bar removed any eccentricity effects that might have caused
To me, surface grinding is my favorite part of the machining process. Very therapeutic
It absolutely is. I think I'm tied between the lathe and the surface grinder.
This is a well timed video - I'm about to move my 9000 lb. lathe into my new shop and I'll need to level it. I had no idea how to start, but now I have some basic guidelines. Thanks, and excellent video!
That's great! Thank you. If you haven't already, I would recommend checking out some of the other heavy hitters videos as well. I gloss over a lot of nuanced points. And there are also different approaches/preferences. Good luck!
Great job and the honesty is refreshing. I get the feeling that chasing precision will gobble up hours in the shop producing nothing. Nice setup though, lucky man.
I can tell you, it absolutely can… at least when you don’t quite know what you’re doing yet 😂 Thanks for the support
I've been leveling and adjusting my 3d printer's bed and the process felt just like this vid.
I am absolutely in love with this channel. While I currently don't have any room for a workshop of my own, that won't always be the case. (And when I am in such a position, no doubt I'll be able to look towards this channel for inspiration as to what to do.) I can absolutely feel the influence of Clickspring and This Old Tony here - and why not? They're amazing machinists.
I was going to make one tiny suggestion: providing dimensions in both imperial and metric measurements would be greatly appreciated, for folks like me that can't visualise what a thou looks like, but somehow can easily imagine 0.005mm.
Keep up the amazing work! :D
Thank you and noted! Hope you can find your way into a shop in the near future. It's one of the best hobbies in my opinion
Awesome job! Amazing how everything cleaned up so well.
Thank you!! 😊
Loving all these videos and the flow they have from one to the other is perfect! It has really sparked my interest in machining and I’ve managed to find some courses relatively close to home that I’ll be looking to do in the near future, thanks!!
I'm so glad I have found this channel!! So informative, can't wait to go on this journey with you.
Thanks! Welcome!
Nice video Brandon, Thanks for sharing.
Steve
Much appreciated, Steve! Didn't have time to set up for a sine plate, setup. But I'll get there eventually.
Just found your channel and I find your voice very soothing, and it's very enjoyable to watch your learning processes. Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure. Thanks and welcome!
Had no idea that something like this needed to be levelled so accurately!
I was concerned, being April Fools (see This Old Tony today's post). But it was a real and very informative post. Living vicariously your adventures setting that dream shop!
I saw the thumbnail but haven't watched it yet. I assumed he was doing the old face turning a square block trick. Thanks for the support!
Well that was disappointing… only ToT
Best 2022 channel. Greating from Italy. Max
Wow! Thank you so much!
This was neat to watch! I have to deal with part deflection all the time, as the acrylic parts I'm CNC machining are only 150 microns (~0.006") thick and 100 microns (~0.004") wide. Machining a relatively large surface at 150 microns thick is extremely do accurately, and I've had to do a lot of adjusting of our milling machine and my toolpaths to make it work. However, it's refreshing to see what all goes into getting similar results on a much larger scale and with manual machines. Keep up the good work!
I'm blown away by the scale of parts you are talking about. I wouldn't have guessed anything that small was made by traditional means. I imagine these are purpose built machines though.
@@InheritanceMachining Yeah, I was blown away with it too until I was the one who had to do the modeling, programming, and machining. Haha! It never ceases to amaze me how tough something this small can be. I can't get into too many details, but these parts have mechanical latches built into them that are closed by a pair of forceps. It's incredible to latch them under a microscope and see something so small flex so much without breaking. They even make an audible click when they latch - similar to the sound of clipping a fingernail!
Also, the machine I'm using is made by MDA Precision. It's by no means an inexpensive machine, but it's hardly a wildly-expensive purpose-built machine. Take a look at their website if you're curious! Also, feel free to ask me questions about it as well. It's fun to talk shop with other machinists.
Oh I'm familiar with medical manufacturing propriety lol but I get what you are saying. Sounds cool :)
I just checked them out. I see what you mean. Not completely unreasonable for a manufacturing application. Especially in the medical field where I imagine the sales margins are pretty high.
@@InheritanceMachining Yeah, we have their TN5-V8-TC8 5-axis mill. We optioned a few things on top of the base model for extra precision - like the glass slides. They give the machine accuracy down to 1 micron.
My coworker and I had to make use of that last week to do some manual machining on a pair of forceps that we had 3D printed. We had our surgical microscope swung over the machine enclosure, and, with my coworker watching through the microscope, I was manually jogging the machine 1 micron at a time to cut grooves into the forceps with an 0.008" diameter ball mill. The forceps are 316L stainless, so I had to manually mist some of our coolant onto it to get the tool to survive. Haha!
It's interesting that you mention sales margins, because our product hasn't yet made it to market. I'm working on something that started as graduate research at the University of Kentucky. It gained enough ground to get grant funding - which is how I was hired - and that's what paid for the 5-axis mill. We've just recently transitioned into private funding, but we've got a long way to go before we're selling our product. If you're curious about what we're making, send me an email at Jay.LB7.Russell@gmail.com, and I can share our company website with you.
nice work. just started the foundations for my new workshop so hopefully i might be doing the same in the near(ish) future
Very nice! That's one thing that's always a struggle in my shop. The concrete isn't very thick and was not smoothed properly. There are literally 1/4" drag lines... Best of luck to you!
Right on! I have the same lathe and have had to do all these adjustments too. A time consuming process! Yours is a much cleaner example.
Cool! I’m curious how you are powering yours?
I’ve had make straight parts on a crooked lathe before and it’s a pain. Essentially I’d cut the part normally until I got about 0.030” of final size. Take what is essentially a finishing cut at 0.015” depth of cut. Then measure along the shaft with the micrometer. Depending on the accuracy, add Sharpie marks as the diameter increases each thou or half thou. In the best case scenario, the diameter monotonically increases toward toward the end of the cut. Then take the final cut, adjusting the cross side with each passing sharpie mark. Did I mention it’s a pain the ass? Great video by the way.
What a hassle! But you gotta do what you gotta do.
Indeed no side project seems doubtful
Really enjoying your videos and like that you show the mistakes too so that we can learn along with you. Keep up the good work man👌🏼
Thank you!
I should really get some sleep. But I blame you for making these videos so bingeable!
(but seriously. Damn this is such a cosy channel to watch)
😁 Thanks!
I love your videos man. You’re gonna go far on UA-cam
I really appreciate that! Thank you!
The official channel subtitle should just be: "It's never easy is it?"
Very informative and entertaining though!
holy moly that's a heck of a surface plate!
Nice work, excellent.
Liked the lathe re aline and level.👍
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
Thank you!
Love that Mill feng shui! Looks great!
The shop is so inviting now!
I mean it was before... but now even more so!
Like in any good Movie/Film there is a Sub-Plot but in your you have Side-Projects, you both make a good Video 👍
I still like your style and considering i get bored easily that is a compliment 😆
Funny how one always gets sidetracked by things one needs to do before one can proceed. My latest is making a three point telescoping gauge for measuring shallow recesses, and after a couple of weeks of playtime and three iterations i think im there. Chances are that now i have done it i bet i don't get the job i made it for again.😣
That's exactly right! Even if that is the case you probably learned a few valuable lessons along the way. Thanks again for the support, Chris
Informative, educational and entertaining. Top quality content, beautifully filmed and narrated. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
Thank you very much!
Very nice job. We live and learn. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work. Keep making. God bless.
Thanks!
Great videos mate!
If your angles are good you can just shim the small end up to get the bore parallel and grind the top surface, taking it easy.
Clean shim stock will keep that angle correct and once you have the first 2/3 sides done you can then place it down flat and grind the opposing faces.
Can then measure your deviation from centreline and correct that on the appropriate faces.
Of course, there is the somewhat significant downside of no side project in this method...
Thanks! I considered going this route but in some instances the deviation is less than the thinnest shim stock I have. I'm planning to use something called the step method on the grinder to correct this. The angles between faces are still a bit off as well, but I've got something in the works to correct both issues. Its a side project of sorts haha
On a positive note, Side project count is dropping, LOL! Congrats on hitting 10K so soon, keep up the awesome content and great effort on your editing. Cheers, John
It's a fluke! haha Much appreciated!
There is too much oil on the Z axis ways. Beneath the front and back of these ways you will find 4 plates or adjusting gibbs. Clean the ways, gibbs, and/or plates very well then adjust gibbs/plates to .002" clearance between the bottom of the ways to the top of the gibbs/plates. ( A Chinese machine had plates I needed to shim and/or machine to reach the .002" clearance.) What you are seeing with the deviation on top of the centering bar is the entire carriage floating on a moat of oil. This float differs with the speed of the carriage as well as changing direction resulting in what you are seeing, the cutter tip position floating. Oil should be a sort of sheen. Also, use 1-2-3 blocks across the way flats and level off of those, not the top of the cross slide.
After many years in the trade, I have finally gotten it down to about one side project per project.
Sounds like I have a long way to go then 😉
gotta love those side projets . nice work
Always. Thanks!
Love your " No Dog Level" They are made in Lexington KY and made for the Electrical Field. The one I have is over 20 years old and has been great.
P.S. Congratulations on 10K subs, Keep up the great work
Hey, thats cool! Not far from me at all. Much appreciated. Thanks for the support!
Nicely explained really joyful to watch
Thank you!
A machine salesman once told me, "If you ever have to remove the bed extension to use the gap, I would never be able to get it back in place"
Awesome upload! Keep going
Thank you! No stopping me now!
Those sweet side projects! never estimate them. They are very therapeutic :) Thumbs up and subbed, thanks for the upload!
😁 My pleasure. Welcome!
Recent subscriber - Love your videos. They are very calm and easy to watch.
For your setup on the grinder, what about putting an adjustable parallel or machinist jack under the far end of the precision bar to keep that end from sagging? You could put an indicator on the head of the grinder to check that you are level/flat to be certain.
Much appreciated! I actually did exactly that. Maybe it didn’t come through well from the angle of the camera. I think the problem is that the nut side of the block has clearance on the shaft so the block itself is unssuported
3:12 I have to ask how a engineer / machinist ended up with an electrician's level? As far as I know it was an electrician that started No Dog tools and when I ordered my level you could chose the angles you wanted. We use it for conduit bending accuracy.
10:38 Tailstock higher by 0.0005" : This is usual for lathes which are not very worn. The tolerance for tailstock ht rel to headstock is unilateral, ie plus something, minus nothing, so that initial wear ("running in" ) actually makes the situation better. And the usual upper limit for a toolroom lathe (maximum height diff) is 0.02mm which is 0.0008".
The other most notable unilateral tolerance is the perpendicularity of the cross slide: (angle between x axis and z axis): The tolerance is such that any deviation from zero will result in facing a surface hollow (so that the face will not rock on a flat plane). The max deviation for a toolroom lathe produces 0.02mm hollow per 300mm in diameter (minimum zero)
Really enjoy your vids the warts and all approach is fantastic. Keep up the good work
Thank you! Rather than hide my mistakes I prefer to find the humor in them… and maybe learn my lesson haha
@@InheritanceMachining It showsit makes for a great vid
The hobby machine shop motto: "There's always another yak to be shaved."
Great video! I really enjoy style and narration...
Thank you!
I hope you always have a side project, to complete main projects with. :D
You will find that every time you move the tail stock on any lathe it will change the taper or alignment. So when turning multiple shafts of the same length once adjusted, it is a good idea not to move the tailstock if possible. Every time you do it can introduce error and it will need adjusted again. Something you may find interesting. I have worked in many shops over the years Lathe bed twisting is a common method used to cope with bed wear.
I am finding that out about the tailstock with my current project. Keeping the necessary wrenches handy... I do find that interesting. Luckily my lathe is pretty lightly used so I don't think wear is going to be a concern quite yet.
3 sideprojects in the first 36 seconds. That must be a personal record for sure…
Nice job....way to chase down the problems!
😁 I’ll get there eventually
The Feng Shui is a important aspect of shop setup.
Most definitely!
excelente contenido, sigue adelante con el proyecto!!
Will do!! Thanks!
Great video 👌
Was that a 0.02mm/div level?
Would you recommend this fine of a Level?
Thanks! Yes I would, though I have no idea what the brand is. It's all in Chinese and is over 20 years old. I would imagine as long as the bubble is adjustable and the resolution is correct you will be good. I'm sure quality and flatness of the casting plays a part too but for the type of precision I'm dealing with I'll wait until that becomes more important.
This stuff sure tests one's patience, doesn't it?
One way or another you'll get there :)
It sure does. On the bright side I don't really have ant deadlines for most of this... so I can take a minute to cool down haha
@@InheritanceMachining that's fortunate! It always sucks so badly when you do have a job that must go out and the equipment won't cooperate.
I'd love to hear what you uncover about the collet blocks problem. Sounds to me like the entire table, under the grinding wheel, is likely tilted. You line up everything on the table perfectly but the blocks are still coming out tapered. If I'm right, at least it's something you should be able to adjust out - hopefully.....
I love the whole machining universe; whatever you dream up you can make.
My paradise would be an airplane hanger full to the rafters with every imaginable machine tool and a few like-minded friends to work on projects with.
Love your stuff and I totally appreciate the extra effort that goes into making these videos!
Since EVERYTHING in a machine shop is made out of rubber, it's quite the miracle that we're able to make anything at all. On that note, maybe our ability to make stuff is proof that miracles are real.....
Please keep sharing. Thanks! :)
@@artmckay6704 Thanks, Art. I can relate from an engineering perspective. Always seems that when the design deadline approaches, the computer starts freezing up and crashing haha.
I'm fairly certain that the problem I'm having with the collet blocks was a less than rigid setup. I resurfaced the mag chuck in the restoration video so I'm not concerned that it is out of level.
I'm like you. I could spend every waking moment in a shop. But i guess I'll keep taking a break to put together these videos ;)
Thanks again for the support!
@@InheritanceMachining Well, I'm confident you'll figure it out and make perfect collet blocks!
Yup, we gotta stay in the human game and at least socialize a little! :)
@@artmckay6704 amen!
Side projects are exactly why it takes me so long to do any project.
Nice show and tell on leveling and alignment, handy tips as I'm trying to spruce up my chinese lathe.
Thanks! Hopefully this is helpful for your project
Awesome video, congrats on 10k subs.
Thank you!!
Rule 1 of a machine shop.....you need more room. :-) Thanks for your videos you are living my dream.
But then if I get more room, I'll have to get more tools.
And if I get more tools, I'll need more room.
It's a real pickle.
You must be going through a huge amount of rust eater at the moment.. You have an optimism that I appreciate. I have seen the other video's but I find myself windering how many times you could adjust the collet blocks without having to start again.
Surprisingly not too much rust remover. I think I've only used about 2 gallons so far. The collet blocks were like the game "how many licks to get to the center of a tootsie pop" 😂
The fact that he sweeping, made me think twice about my shop.
hello from spain..very good video
Hello! Thank you!
do you care so much about those machines when gradpa was alive???could be really happy
Nicely done.
Rule of thumb, never place your ding ding where it has the chance to be ripped off. meaning your hand should never be anywhere near the item being machined.
"Aw man it's wrong."
"Oh but it's consistently wrong! I can work with this!"
Excited about this new vid!
Way to keep after it! Subscribed!
Thank you!
Excellent presentation. I just checked my lathe after being in my new shop for about five years now and I was pleased to find it was still dead nuts on.
Can I ask what you are using for rust removal and cold bluing? Looked like the chemicals that you are using did a good job.
Mike
That's really impressive. I think mine has already shifted a little and needs to be looked at again.
For rust removal just good old Evaporust. Then the blueing kit I use is from Casewell plating. They have two options for sealers, and I chose the one that dries to the touch.
Thanks for watching!
Great episode! I especially liked you using engineers wrenches. I dispize adjustable open end wrenches.
Those are actually part of the original lathe toolkit! Thanks for watching!
Making precise hexagonal 5c collet holders can be a pain when starting with uncalibrated equipment. It makes me grateful for our lathe with live tooling and c-axis interpolation. :D
Fancy computers haha though when the journey is most of the fun, I enjoy trying to figure it out the old fashioned way
@@InheritanceMachining Oh for sure. I've been a tool maker for about 8 years now and I know I also prefer the old fashion way. It is just a different kind of satisfaction you cant get by doing it the fancy CAD/CAM way. Unfortunately, the company makes more money the new way though. Hah.
хорошая работа 👍
Nice manual lathe machine..sir..💯👍