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Fusing Resin Pieces Together
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- Thanks for joining for a video of how I fuse resin pieces together!
Happy creating.
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Just popped in to have a look & wow I’m glad I did, wish I were at least 55 years younger & have all this technology you have 🥰 I really love those horns, what a beautiful job, I can picture the costume with them, I’m liking & subscribing you have got me curious what other projects you have done, oh & nothing wrong with the makeshift gizmos for now what counts is they work! I have many things that do the job for now & stand the length of time & beyond sometimes they outlast the bought ones lol.keep up with your creative mind, going to enjoy watching your future. 😍💕
Risen does NOT come out of clothing, do NOT wear nice clothes while working with Resin, or epoxy. I have invested in a silicon apron that is strictly for epoxy. I also do not wear my wedding ring while I’m doing projects. I wear rubber gloves ALWAYS, however my hands get sweaty and I don’t want to reck my ring. I also wear protective eyewear,& do not wear my glasses. I have gotten epoxy on my glasses& it does NOT come off. I also have invested in silicon mats for the floor and my work area, I have also purchased dollar store serving trays for my projects( you don’t want the resin to spill out if you decide to move it, to let it cure).
Good job! 👍
Holy moly thank you for this video!
I was trying to use plastic modeling glue (the kind you use to assemble those warhammer figurines) to assemble a figure i made in my resin printer, then i tried using green stuff, and neither worked!
I didnt know the solution was so simple, thanks for this tutorial!
I'm glad it helped you! Hope my other videos are just as useful for you!
As soon as I saw the geometry at the start of the video, I thought of Weiss Schnee 🤍.
Yes!
I know this video is older, but in case you haven't heard of it yet, I'd definitely recommend using a heat gun to remove supports before curing.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to give it a try.
@@KannonStudiosOfficial I've seen letting it sit in hot water for a minute work too! Also make sure you use skin protection when you exposed to UV light, you could be damaging your skin.
awsome video , thank you very much for the tutorial .
Glad you liked it!
Thank you. Great video and to the point explanations. Looking forward to look you up again :D
I would probably still toss on some gloves. if any resin in on your skin in UV light it's going to burn like HELL. Cann attest to this personally on more than one occasion haha
Good tip!
Fantastic work!
Thanks!
well i have a couple of comments or advice/critiques and hope you dont take them wrong. 1st remove the supports prior to curing, they come off way easier 2nd and this is my biggest critique your method of bonding these parts should not be used, yes the light cures the resin, but only the resin that the light hits all the resin your putting down in the cavity of the part and then stick the other part in isnt getting cured at all by the uv light so you are leaving uncured resin in the piece when you assemble it wich can make it cone apart or even seep through the part alomost like its sweating. just an FYI do not bond yout parts this way its unsafe, only do this if the resin is on the outside of the piece where UV light can actually cure the resin.
Hi Nathan, thank you for the feedback! You're right, it can be easier removing some supports before curing. However, depending on the piece, there can be situations you would not want to do that: thin flexible pieces that could become warped during the wash/cure process, or pieces that need to maintain high precision to be assembled to a larger whole (the warping that could occur otherwise could impact that final result). I find that leaving the supports on in those kind of cases is more beneficial while curing them.
With bonding, you are correct- if it's a solid color resin though. I've found that for transparent resins, and resins with at least a 50% blend of a transparent resin, that's a non-issue. The light will penitrate and cure it, given that there is not too much depth to the bond of course. Hollowfying objects properly with holes for drainage makes a significant improvement to that process, as well as reducing material costs and overall weight.
But I'll be covering some of those items in a video update - this one is a bit old now, and from when I was first expirementing with SLA printers myself. 😀
Absolutely brilliant! And I love your DIY chip box cure station, I think I'll just grab a cabinet I have in my basement and line it with foil!
haha thanks! Nice! Cheaper to use what you have. lol
I'm surprised you cured before removing the supports. You can save some time sanding support scarring by removing supports before curing. Working with printed miniatures I've found I can often put the print in warm water for a bit and the supports peel off nicely, no clipping required.
I do both. Depends what I'm doing.
Hi good day! What drafting app you using for your designs?
I molded my pieces in Blender. 😁
Tried this for the first time today, thank you! I was having so many issues until trying this
Glad it worked out!
Subscribed! I had a question and you answered it no fuss ❤ I just ordered a little uv flashlight.
Thanks, Amy. i appreciate it!
Thank you very much!
You're welcome!
Hello Kiki. I am printing tabletop miniatures and i did a really big one with long legs. the parts do not fit together perfectly and all the parts are cured as well. can i use this method by trying to position it with super glue and filling the gaps afterwards with resin and cure it? will the allready cured resin combine with the resin i use as glue? Thanks for the video
I'm sure you tried this already but yes it should work! Hope the project came out. 😄
How are these pieces doing? I'm wondering because you're putting resin down in those holes and I imagine the light isn't able to reach leaving little pockets of uncured resin.
I personally haven't had any issues with this method. Most of my prints I use this on have a wall thickness of 2-3mm, and the light has always been bright enough to fully cure all the examples I show here.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Elegoo's mercury is great for cure
insing
Yes, I love mine!
Old video, but I would recommend not using your 3D print resin to fuse pieces like this. Use a two-part epoxy resin, like from Gorilla. The bond will be MUCH stronger. The UV light is unable to penetrate under the pieces, so while the surrounding edges where the two pieces meet will cure, the center will not be cured and that could lead to problems.
I would only use 3D print resin like this to fill in surface detail, like a shallow crack, or a seam after two parts are joined together. Also run hot water over your cleaned prints before curing them, the supports will easily break off leaving minimal markings, as opposed to clipping them off post-cure.
Thanks for the comments~ I'll have an updated video soon! This method works great for pieces that the UV light does penetrate! The updated video will give you some better examples of this.
Any tips for joining large pieces like the crown?
I have another video here where I assembled some large horns that were printed in multiple pieces. Hopefully this helps! ua-cam.com/video/14aW--bmYLs/v-deo.html
So how long are you curing for?
During the fusing process? 10-15 seconds, maybe another post cure session if needed once complete. But the times can vary on the resin used of course, I try to just follow the manufacture spec
How would the resin in the hole or inside of the piece cure ? I would of though that this is only just bonding the very edges that the light as able to hit?
I'm just guessing here but, notice how the light bleeds through the edges of the spikes when held in front of the light? This is because the resin has a slight degree of translucency to it, so the light ends up shining through enough to cure the resin below just surface level. At least that's how I'd interpret it
Basically what NPC said. 😁
Looking to get started with 3D printing and these bits of information are really helpful.
Would you say the strength off a bond made this way is strong enough for miniatures (miniatures usually do some pinning combined with some glue)?
Yes, absolutely
The Problem with this method is that there is trapped resin which the UV light is not reaching and it will stay in liquid phase. Only transparent resin will work with this method.
I haven't had this issue personally. I cure it in thin layers to build up the area, and even add in cured resin scraps for bigger spaces. I sand my pieces and they come out great! But this is just a suggestion based on my personal experiences.
Looks like you chose to not wear gloves while painting resin? I'd want to use gloves while painting resin, but that's just my caution.
Correct, you do not want to touch non-cured resin.
For safety sake use gloves when handling resin . Happy creating.........
Correct! Gloves are always needed when working with uncured resin! 😁👍 Happy creating!
3:22
great way to get skin cancer.... you should definetly not expose your skin to such a high dose of UV light.
It's great that you're using eye protection but that's not enough.
Especially lighter skin types are sensitive to such high uv doses.
Thanks for your comment!
I think your fear is valid, but not in this case. Even skincancer.org doesn't consider the brief moments of exposure to pose any risk (think like a nail salon station). I'm only using it for a few seconds, of which off camera the light is pretty much just on the piece I'm working on.
Tanning beds have a higher risk of something like that due to long exposure times.
In the brief few seconds, there is no real issue. But if worried, some sunscreen or gloves could be worn?
From skincancer.org:
However, even the most intense of these devices presents only a moderate UV risk - a far lower risk than that presented by UV tanning devices.