I am working on a video showing how much oil remains trapped in the pan as a result of the FUMOTO valve thread length sticking into the pan. I will drain the oil with the valve, then remove the valve and measure how much more drains out. I’m doing it on three different valves, to show results for the three different types. I will post the link to the video here when it is complete!
That's why I wouldn't ever use one. Why constrict the drain plug for a price when the standard one works perfectly fine? Not to mention it sticks out further under the car which is another drawback.
@@TheBrawlmastah depends on the angle of the drain. at a disadvantage if drain points straight down. One those drains which are angled to the side, if there is too much clearance from bottom of pan to drain, also not good.
As others have stated, this review was one of the finest that's ever been posted on any product, just not for the Fumoto valve. Very very well done. I wish everybody else would take a lesson from how you did things. Like you, I have these valves installed on our three vehicles, an 03 Ford F-350 Dually with 6L Diesel, a 97 Ford F350 Dually with 7.5L 460 gas engine, and an 07 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT. I would never own another car without installing one of these valves in it!
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it! I do spend a lot of time planning out the video in advance so I cover every important detail in a logical order with continuous flow. I’ve had these on four vehicles for a couple years now. Nothing beats flipping a lever to change the oil! I also have every intention of installing these valves on every car I own in the future!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Cool. They really are a great device and worth every penny of the $30 or so cost. Now if they could somehow put a drain valve on each oil filter that you can open and drain a bit of the oil out so when you unscrew it it doesn't start splashing out all over the place that would be the total dream! One thing I forgot to mention that I really appreciated about your video is that you don't blast the stupid porn-type music in the background that totally distracts from what you're trying to review and educate people on.
@@jeffm.5439 put a McDonald’s cup of some sort around the filter, squeeze the filter through the cup & unscrew it. It catches all of the oil and you can just drop your filter in it when you’re done. You’re welcome.
Another advantage of the valve is the draining process can be halted, if you have overestimated the capacity of your waste container or due to clearance issues, you are using smaller containers. Easy to pick up when full and tip out. Examine contents etc. Just a thought.
I installed the standard valve last fall on my Ram 2500 with the Cummins. Oil changes are not near as messy now. Used to be when you removed the drain plug, you'd better get outta the way! Lotsa oil can come out of an 18mm hole with 3 gallons setting on top of it. It takes a little longer to drain, but it's more than made up in the fact you don't have a mess to deal with afterwards. Planning on installing one on my John Deere X750 this year.
An excellent review!! Thanks. I can see where I could skip the entire oil drain-pan thing and direct the flow into a plastic gallon jug. I would just have to deal with the oil filter drip🙂
No, they’re awful. You end up not draining all the oil. Some people have run tests and they’ve had over a quart stuck.Videos on UA-cam show that with sample oil pans
@@gianni_schicchi definitely depends on the angle/position of the drain. if you have it pointing straight down, then you're out of luck.. also may seem counterintuitive or dangerous to some but you need a hot engine for increased fluidity, ensuring maximum drainage
I have wondered about these drain plugs for sometime. Thank you for the review. I’m, now, completely convinced, I’d never use them. I like a regular plug. No springs or levers to fail at the wrong time.
Tale it from a decade long user, these do not fail. The Japanese know how to build things. I use them for a different reason. Its a one time install and once its on, you never have to worry about stripping out your drain pan bolt hole.
That is what happened to my 2022 Nissan Rogue, with the PLASTIC oil pan! I'm getting me one of these. And it was a Nissan dealership that overtightened in the first place, then next oil change BOOM it stripped out!@@nickv4073
When you drain your oil into a pan you then funnel it into a disposal container that you bring to your recycle center. Why not get the nipple ( I have the long one) and a short piece of hose and drain it straight to the disposal container. This I find is the real advantage of the system as you eliminate one step (plus cleaning the pan and funnel) and also eliminate the possibility of a mistaken spill. I use the 5 quart bottle from my last oil change and this method could not be easier.
That’s a great method if it works out. 3 of my vehicles are low ground clearance. I can’t fit a 5 quart container under any of them. I barely have room to slide the catch pan underneath. Also, I don’t pour the used oil into the 5 quart oil container until after I empty the new oil from it into the engine (drain old oil into drain pan, pour new oil into engine and empty the container, pour old oil into empty container). I understand this can be addressed by always keeping an empty container on hand, but, that’s my reason.
Critical: tighten the valve by grabbing it *only* over the actual valve body with the stamp on it. Do not try grabbing it by the small end hex nut, a small constant leak will cost you an engine
These are cool. I use them also. On one car I was able to have a buddy hold my shop vac on the oil fill hole while I swapped in the Fumoto valve (I had recently changed the oil).
After installing them on a 2024 subaru crosstrek and a 2016 Lincoln mkx they look like a good product. You video is outstanding and your explanations are very good. For the multi position valve which I installed on my mkx there is no gasket, just a oring which I did not see as a replacement part on the fumoto website. I may have to give them a call.
I’ve had several of them installed for several years now. 3 to 4 years. I still love them and definitely recommend them. I agree that the swivel version has an integrated rubber o-ring. This should not ever need to be replaced as a wear item. But, their customer service has been great in my experience. If it ever becomes torn or dry rots, I suspect they will work with you and send a replacement at no cost.
So glad I came across this video. And even better that I have the exact same Impala you have in the video. After hearing your caution, would you mind sharing which adapter(s) you ended up purchasing for the Impala? This is great info
No problem! I have the 2.5L L4 engine and I used the F107SX. I just checked the FUMOTO website and it now only shows the F107SX. It no longer shows the incorrect valve.
Regarding the comments and questions about how much oil is left in the pan due to the threads protruding into the oil pan, has anyone considered or tried removing the portion of threads that are inside the pan? Seems like this would be the best workaround, and any threads inside the pan are not performing any function since they are virtually unused and not critical for the installation and use of the valve.
I have thought about cutting a cross in say the last 1/3" of the threads to be able to drain more oil out of the pan. Would probably have to clean up the threads a little bit afterwards but I think the effort would be worth it to remove the most oil without having to mess with the bolt every time.
Thanks for sharing! We can assume that the threads of the Fumoto valve protrude past the drain hole on the inside of the pan which can mean that the oil doesn't drain completely, leaving a little oil and debris around the threads. Wouldn't it be cool if you show us the inside of a loose oil pan (not installed on the car) with a Fumoto valve installed so we can see how the oil drains and how much oil and debris it still leaves inside the pan? (hint)
A agree with you that some oil is left in the pan. I really like of removing the oil pan and taking a look! I have added it to my list of future video ideas, and I will be sure to credit you if I get to it. The Jeep would be my first choice because of great ground clearance, but it is a real hassle. Have to unbolt a motor mount and jack up one side of the engine just to access all of the bolts. And it’s got this goofy 3 piece gasket. But, that could double as a second video for how to replace the oil pan gasket…. It’s on the list.
You could always compare thread length of valve with existing plug's thread length and measure if possible, the female thread in the pan/sump if residual oil and debris was a concern.
Any idea how these hold up to the weather? In areas that salt roads in winter will the valve corrode and not work? I definitely want to get one just not sure how it will hold up to PA winters or just rusting in general.
I also live in an area where winters are four months of snow and salt on the roads. I have them on for vehicles. Two of the valves have been through three winters and one valve has been through two winters. The other valves on a summer vehicle. All of the valves have held up great. They are not corroded and function properly. I have the adapter that adds length on one vehicle. Strangely, the adapter has turned brown. However, the valve is still shiny brass.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Interesting, thanks for those insights. The Fumoto website does say they are constructed from corrosion resistant forged brass and stainless steel, so perhaps the designers had resilience in mind as well as function.
Good thing is even if the valve gets stuck shut, you essentially are back to a "normal" drain bolt. Just unthread the valve, drain oil, screw valve back in until you could rebuild or replace.
Thanks for the super informative video! Does the Fumoto drain valve come with a crush washer included? If so, what is it made of? Aluminum? Copper? Thank you for your help!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Does the o-ring that’s included seal well? Does it leak at all? It would it help to get a plastic or copper crush washer instead?
@@700horses I have not experienced any leaks. I have checked the seals to make sure nothing is leaking, and there are no oil drops on the ground where the vehicle are regularly parked. I have zero concerns with leaks. I would stick with the seals supplied with the valves. I have not experienced any issues with them.
I just changed the oil on two of my vehicles yesterday! The valves sure made it clean and easy! But heads up, turns out some models take a while to drain. When I did the Saturn I waited about five minutes, then ended up just doing something else for a while and coming back later to finish the job. Probably didn’t help that it was well below freezing out. But definitely clean, easy and recommended!
I think it depends on the valve. I have 4 different valves. I do recall the SX valve being noticeably slower. The last time, I just opened it up and came back a half hour later (which was fine, because no tools are required. I just reached under, flipped the switch, and left. No complaints.) I think some or all of the other valves, which are all F valves, were ok. They redesigned F valves a couple years ago to have faster flow. I’m not sure which of my F valves are the old version or the new faster version. I’m going to time them all on the next oil changes.
Any owners of a 2019 Subaru Impreza hatchback with the 2.0 L engine? Been considering getting a Fumoto for mine, but I can't decide which would be best for my vehicle. Doesnt help that i just had to replace the really crappy 14 mm original with a 17mm replacement part.
Nice! I saw that one as well. I didn’t have any specific functional reason for choosing one as opposed to the other. I heard about the Fumoto first, so that’s what I pursued.
I’m actually doing an oil change today and it’s nice to know I will just be flipping a lever with no tools required! I used the blue washer that came with the valve. Not any factory washers. If it is an SX, the valve has an integrated rubber o-ring and no washer.
@@irishkelly654 That’s a good point. I personally just use my hand. However, some people put them on way too tight and they can be a real battle to remove. I do all of my own oil changes, so I can remove them with my hand.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial - Thanks for the reply. Yes, I hear you. I do my own, too. I once had a filter leak because I didn't tighten it enough so I think I now overcompensate a little, ensure it is snugged down. LOL...anyway, all the best! Cheers...
Good point, but slipping a board underneath was way easier and faster than dragging a floor jack out and setting up the jack and jack stands. The board was not as inconvenient as it might look. But, now I just reach under and flip the valve open, so it’s all good.
That’s me. I am in the rustbelt. I’ve had several of these installed for about four years. They are holding up fine. The plastic safeties are gone on a couple of them, but they’re completely fine without them. It’s impossible for them to accidentally open. It requires intentional manual force. Take a look at my most recent Fumoto video that I posted about three weeks ago and it will show the current state of the valves.
Looks like a good idea. I gave up oil changes 60 years ago by using filters that clean oil. At present all I use is Motor Guards Gulf Coasts and the Australian Jackmaster. On some lawn mowers I return the clean oil where the drain valve was. These filters all use hoses. Normally use Ford full flow filters. Had to change the oil on the Craftsman Kohler for the first time in 21 years.put a electric fuel pump on instead of the proper pump. Ended up with a crankcase. Full of gasoline. A low pressure pump would have worked.
I was talking about my 84 Subaru with no oil drains in 250,000 miles using a Frantz oil cleaner and Mobil 1. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good for that many miles. He recommended I change the Frantz and add a new quart of oil every 6 K miles instead of every 12 K miles. The car ran too hot in dallas traffic with the AC on. Got into a debate with A guy on a Trawler forum. The guy seemed smarter than usual. He said send me a propaganda package. It was NASA heavy equipment engineer. He said bring your wife down to Canaveral we can talk filters. I called Gulf Coast filters and told them to send someone down to talk to this guy.They said who is it I said NASA. I see on their web site NASA is listed as a customer. They were moving the shuttle around then. They didnt need to hear about my Subaru. At present the Jackmaster is the best little filter in production. I have the Jackmaster Classic. I use Great Value 1000 sheet from Walmart in mine. You can get 30 dollar elements but they are set up for the the bigger core TP..was talking about a truck with a million miles with one oil drain using Gulf Coast filters and Rotella. Got a call from Road King Magazine wanting the truck owners phone number..The one oil change was when someone forgot to tell a mechanic it was Shell oil test truck. Dont sell filters now. Its been interesting. Started with Frantz in 1963. Frantz is obsolete now. The top loaders are easier to service and have better core seals. Road king did an article on the truvk. The way it was explained to me is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. New oil added at filter change keeps the additives up to specs. The big Bounty towels in the Gulf Coast filter need 3 gallons of make up oil added when the Full flow filters are also changed 5.5 gallons are needed. On the Detroit series 60 425 HP it comes to the same as a full oil change every 40,000 miles. About every 250 K the engine is torn down and measured. The oil is poured back in. Of course the oil gets analyzed often.
When I sold the Frantz oil cleaner they had a FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz model. Ran an add in the paper. The paper said FFA approved. Got a call from a crop duster company inviting me to come up and look at their filters. Also got a call from mr Jones of the Jones bus company of Wichita Ks. He raised Clydsdale horses near Sedan Ks. Repaired a cracked fender panel on his Chevy pickup. The rough roads cracked the panel around the Frantz bracket. Replaced the hoses and gasket. At the time Frantz had a lot of aircraft oil analysis reports. Toilet paper fit in those days. The aircraft model used 2 ply facial quality. 1 1/2 inch core T P is hard to find now. Of course the Frantz elements fit now. When Frantz went broke a Frantz dealer improved the filters. That was the Gulf Coast junior. I think the junior might have been discontinued. Gulf Coast does heavy duty diesels now.such as Locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs. There might be some type of agreement with Jackmaster. The big engine people also have fork trucks and such that need small filters Yes the Jones bus company was Frantz equipped school buses. Im going now shouldnt be hard to find more information.
@@ralphwood8818 wow. This is the coolest most interesting information I’ve ever read on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing. Perhaps I need to do some more reading and learning. Thanks for sharing.
How much dirty oil do these leave behind? I remember on a message board someone tested this and the one that was tested left about 1/2 pint of dirty oil behind. It would have been nice if you would have shown this in the video.
That is a great point and an excellent video idea! I have also considered this, but have not tested it. I will make a video on it at my next oil change. I will drain everything with the valve, then put an empty catch pan in place, then remove the valve and measure how much additional oil drains. I have these on four different vehicles. Maybe I’ll wait until I do it on two or three of them before I make the video so there’s more data. It should be vehicle dependent because of the shape of the oil pan.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I did some research and on Fumoto's web site it states that none of the threads will extend into the oil pan. The test that was done was on a BMW message board and the person even pulled the pan off their car and it showed the threads sticking up about 1/4". Now this test was about 15 years ago so maybe Fumoto has changed the valves and shortened the threads so they no longer do this.
@@worldsails2000 Thanks for the update! I will definitely still do the video. I think it’s still worthwhile and I’m looking forward to it. It would be nice to prove it either way.
Interesting. Thanks for the input! I’ll keep an eye on mine. My longest one has been on for two years with no issue, but I will definitely pay attention to that.
I tested that in another video. How Much Oil Can't Drain with FUMOTO Engine Oil Drain Valve? How Much Oil is Trapped in the Oil Pan? ua-cam.com/video/hdEsjlaobaQ/v-deo.html
lol. I appreciate it. I do have ramps, but three of my vehicles are too low to use them. It’s no problem though. I can easily reach under and flip the Fumoto valve open and closed. It’s all good.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Thats true with the old steel ramps but the new plastic ones come in a few different incline sizes. All three of my family cars have low clearance and my ramps work for all of them. I guess you can do without them but I cannot since all my oil filters are under the car. I have to get underneath even with Fumoto valves.
I am working on a video showing how much oil remains trapped in the pan as a result of the FUMOTO valve thread length sticking into the pan.
I will drain the oil with the valve, then remove the valve and measure how much more drains out.
I’m doing it on three different valves, to show results for the three different types. I will post the link to the video here when it is complete!
I did this. I was curious how much was being trapped so I drained then removed the Fumoto. Not nearly enough to worry about.
That's why I wouldn't ever use one. Why constrict the drain plug for a price when the standard one works perfectly fine? Not to mention it sticks out further under the car which is another drawback.
@@TheBrawlmastah depends on the angle of the drain. at a disadvantage if drain points straight down. One those drains which are angled to the side, if there is too much clearance from bottom of pan to drain, also not good.
My favorite thing about the Fumoto drain valve is it saves the threads in todays aluminum oil pans.
That’s definitely a great benefit.
As others have stated, this review was one of the finest that's ever been posted on any product, just not for the Fumoto valve. Very very well done. I wish everybody else would take a lesson from how you did things. Like you, I have these valves installed on our three vehicles, an 03 Ford F-350 Dually with 6L Diesel, a 97 Ford F350 Dually with 7.5L 460 gas engine, and an 07 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT. I would never own another car without installing one of these valves in it!
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it!
I do spend a lot of time planning out the video in advance so I cover every important detail in a logical order with continuous flow.
I’ve had these on four vehicles for a couple years now. Nothing beats flipping a lever to change the oil! I also have every intention of installing these valves on every car I own in the future!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Cool. They really are a great device and worth every penny of the $30 or so cost. Now if they could somehow put a drain valve on each oil filter that you can open and drain a bit of the oil out so when you unscrew it it doesn't start splashing out all over the place that would be the total dream! One thing I forgot to mention that I really appreciated about your video is that you don't blast the stupid porn-type music in the background that totally distracts from what you're trying to review and educate people on.
@@jeffm.5439 put a McDonald’s cup of some sort around the filter, squeeze the filter through the cup & unscrew it. It catches all of the oil and you can just drop your filter in it when you’re done. You’re welcome.
@jeffm.5439
When you say "just not for the Fumoto valve" do you mean because he didn't show it in action or demonstrate?
I believe he meant "not just," not "just not"
Another advantage of the valve is the draining process
can be halted, if you have overestimated the capacity
of your waste container or due to clearance issues,
you are using smaller containers.
Easy to pick up when full and tip out.
Examine contents etc.
Just a thought.
Absolutely! I have used it twice for partial drains. Excellent feature.
Along the same lines, if you or an oil change place adds too much oil, it’s trivial to drain just a little.
@@boro057 Another good point mate.👍
Great review! I've been using these on every car I've ever owned since 1987, and never a single issue with them. It's such a well-engineered product!
Nice! I currently have them on four vehicles and also plan to use them on every car I own in the future.
Do you know the one i would need for a citroen xsara picasso
Wish it had snap on hose
The most thorough and clear review of the Fumoto drain valve on the internet. 👍👍👍
Oh, good! Glad you found it helpful!
I installed the standard valve last fall on my Ram 2500 with the Cummins. Oil changes are not near as messy now. Used to be when you removed the drain plug, you'd better get outta the way! Lotsa oil can come out of an 18mm hole with 3 gallons setting on top of it.
It takes a little longer to drain, but it's more than made up in the fact you don't have a mess to deal with afterwards. Planning on installing one on my John Deere X750 this year.
Nice! I have them on all of my vehicles and plan to use them on any vehicles that I own in the future as well.
An excellent review!! Thanks.
I can see where I could skip the entire oil drain-pan thing and direct the flow into a plastic gallon jug. I would just have to deal with the oil filter drip🙂
This should be on every modern car!
No, they’re awful. You end up not draining all the oil. Some people have run tests and they’ve had over a quart stuck.Videos on UA-cam show that with sample oil pans
@@gianni_schicchi definitely depends on the angle/position of the drain. if you have it pointing straight down, then you're out of luck.. also may seem counterintuitive or dangerous to some but you need a hot engine for increased fluidity, ensuring maximum drainage
This is like watching a corporate prepped product knowhow video.
I have wondered about these drain plugs for sometime. Thank you for the review. I’m, now, completely convinced, I’d never use them. I like a regular plug. No springs or levers to fail at the wrong time.
Glad it helped!
Look at the valvomax drain valve. Its Scotty Kilmer approved. Only con is it drains slower than normal.
This wont fail 😂
Tale it from a decade long user, these do not fail. The Japanese know how to build things. I use them for a different reason. Its a one time install and once its on, you never have to worry about stripping out your drain pan bolt hole.
That is what happened to my 2022 Nissan Rogue, with the PLASTIC oil pan! I'm getting me one of these. And it was a Nissan dealership that overtightened in the first place, then next oil change BOOM it stripped out!@@nickv4073
Again, outfreaking standing my dude! Keep up the amazing work that you do.
Thanks, I appreciate it! I have no plans to stop!
You....just.... changed....my.... life.
CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION ⚠️
Thumbs up pal
When you drain your oil into a pan you then funnel it into a disposal container that you bring to your recycle center. Why not get the nipple ( I have the long one) and a short piece of hose and drain it straight to the disposal container. This I find is the real advantage of the system as you eliminate one step (plus cleaning the pan and funnel) and also eliminate the possibility of a mistaken spill. I use the 5 quart bottle from my last oil change and this method could not be easier.
That’s a great method if it works out.
3 of my vehicles are low ground clearance. I can’t fit a 5 quart container under any of them. I barely have room to slide the catch pan underneath.
Also, I don’t pour the used oil into the 5 quart oil container until after I empty the new oil from it into the engine (drain old oil into drain pan, pour new oil into engine and empty the container, pour old oil into empty container). I understand this can be addressed by always keeping an empty container on hand, but, that’s my reason.
Critical: tighten the valve by grabbing it *only* over the actual valve body with the stamp on it. Do not try grabbing it by the small end hex nut, a small constant leak will cost you an engine
These are cool. I use them also. On one car I was able to have a buddy hold my shop vac on the oil fill hole while I swapped in the Fumoto valve (I had recently changed the oil).
Nice! I’ve heard of that vacuum trick, but have never had to try it.
@LeonL47 "a bit of a mess" would be an understatement. But yes, you could swap it in your way. I wouldn't do it that way, but you could.
Great video and I've used one for 8 years. It does restrict flow so the oil pan takes longer to drain.
It does indeed take longer to drain. I’m currently working on a video where I time how long it takes to drain on several different vehicles.
What a great review, looking forward to getting a couple in the near future.
Sub’d! Thanks for quality content!
I hope you enjoy some of the other videos!
After installing them on a 2024 subaru crosstrek and a 2016 Lincoln mkx they look like a good product. You video is outstanding and your explanations are very good. For the multi position valve which I installed on my mkx there is no gasket, just a oring which I did not see as a replacement part on the fumoto website. I may have to give them a call.
I’ve had several of them installed for several years now. 3 to 4 years. I still love them and definitely recommend them.
I agree that the swivel version has an integrated rubber o-ring. This should not ever need to be replaced as a wear item. But, their customer service has been great in my experience. If it ever becomes torn or dry rots, I suspect they will work with you and send a replacement at no cost.
Great video. needed exactly this to understand
Glad it was helpful!
Super excellent outstanding video. GREAT JOB!!! Thanks,
Glad you enjoyed it!
So glad I came across this video. And even better that I have the exact same Impala you have in the video. After hearing your caution, would you mind sharing which adapter(s) you ended up purchasing for the Impala?
This is great info
No problem! I have the 2.5L L4 engine and I used the F107SX. I just checked the FUMOTO website and it now only shows the F107SX. It no longer shows the incorrect valve.
EXCELLENT video!!!👍👍👍 (the very BEST👏, of all the Fumoto Value Review Videos).
Wow, thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Regarding the comments and questions about how much oil is left in the pan due to the threads protruding into the oil pan, has anyone considered or tried removing the portion of threads that are inside the pan? Seems like this would be the best workaround, and any threads inside the pan are not performing any function since they are virtually unused and not critical for the installation and use of the valve.
I have thought about cutting a cross in say the last 1/3" of the threads to be able to drain more oil out of the pan. Would probably have to clean up the threads a little bit afterwards but I think the effort would be worth it to remove the most oil without having to mess with the bolt every time.
Thanks for sharing! We can assume that the threads of the Fumoto valve protrude past the drain hole on the inside of the pan which can mean that the oil doesn't drain completely, leaving a little oil and debris around the threads. Wouldn't it be cool if you show us the inside of a loose oil pan (not installed on the car) with a Fumoto valve installed so we can see how the oil drains and how much oil and debris it still leaves inside the pan? (hint)
A agree with you that some oil is left in the pan.
I really like of removing the oil pan and taking a look! I have added it to my list of future video ideas, and I will be sure to credit you if I get to it.
The Jeep would be my first choice because of great ground clearance, but it is a real hassle. Have to unbolt a motor mount and jack up one side of the engine just to access all of the bolts. And it’s got this goofy 3 piece gasket.
But, that could double as a second video for how to replace the oil pan gasket….
It’s on the list.
You could always compare thread length of valve with
existing plug's thread length and measure if possible,
the female thread in the pan/sump if residual oil and
debris was a concern.
The amount is negligible. Even standard drain plug you’ll not get it all
It holds excess oil in your pan and you loose the ability to look at a magnet. 1 pro, 2 cons = a loss for Fumoto.
@@apapay01I'm not convinced the magnet is a big deal. I wouldn't expect much iron to be coming from modern aluminum engines
GREAT VIDEO,THANKS !!
Glad it helped!
Any idea how these hold up to the weather? In areas that salt roads in winter will the valve corrode and not work? I definitely want to get one just not sure how it will hold up to PA winters or just rusting in general.
Great question. If these are brass, they will turn green and oxidize in no time.
I also live in an area where winters are four months of snow and salt on the roads.
I have them on for vehicles. Two of the valves have been through three winters and one valve has been through two winters. The other valves on a summer vehicle.
All of the valves have held up great. They are not corroded and function properly.
I have the adapter that adds length on one vehicle. Strangely, the adapter has turned brown. However, the valve is still shiny brass.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Interesting, thanks for those insights.
The Fumoto website does say they are constructed from corrosion resistant forged brass and stainless steel, so perhaps the designers had resilience in mind as well as function.
Good thing is even if the valve gets stuck shut, you essentially are back to a "normal" drain bolt. Just unthread the valve, drain oil, screw valve back in until you could rebuild or replace.
Or just save the original drain plug, like in the spare tire well or glovebox.@@-BC.
Excellent video, thank you for the information!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the super informative video!
Does the Fumoto drain valve come with a crush washer included?
If so, what is it made of? Aluminum? Copper?
Thank you for your help!
They come with a blue gasket/washer to go between the valve and the oil pan. I’m not sure what the material is. It is rigid. It is not floppy rubber.
The SX value does not have a blue washer. It has an integrated rubber o-ring.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Does the o-ring that’s included seal well? Does it leak at all?
It would it help to get a plastic or copper crush washer instead?
@@700horses I have not experienced any leaks. I have checked the seals to make sure nothing is leaking, and there are no oil drops on the ground where the vehicle are regularly parked. I have zero concerns with leaks.
I would stick with the seals supplied with the valves. I have not experienced any issues with them.
Top notch review👌
I got one for my '18 Accord, but it requires the 1/2" adapter (add $18)
Yeah, I needed the adapter for one vehicle. I sourced it on eBay and saved a little bit of money.
What are great review. Thanks.
Great video. Ordering one now!
I just changed the oil on two of my vehicles yesterday! The valves sure made it clean and easy! But heads up, turns out some models take a while to drain. When I did the Saturn I waited about five minutes, then ended up just doing something else for a while and coming back later to finish the job. Probably didn’t help that it was well below freezing out.
But definitely clean, easy and recommended!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial That's awesome to hear. Can't wait to get mine in the mail to install at the next oil changes
Fantastic review.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Do you know the one i would need for a citroen xsara picasso?
Just installed my today on My Outback 13
Nice! I just used mine yesterday for an oil change! Too easy!
Great review, very informative! Btw - you say “valve” very oddly. Makes me wonder where you’re from 🤔
Compared to the stock drain plugs, how much slower is the Fumoto to drain?
I think it depends on the valve. I have 4 different valves.
I do recall the SX valve being noticeably slower. The last time, I just opened it up and came back a half hour later (which was fine, because no tools are required. I just reached under, flipped the switch, and left. No complaints.)
I think some or all of the other valves, which are all F valves, were ok.
They redesigned F valves a couple years ago to have faster flow. I’m not sure which of my F valves are the old version or the new faster version.
I’m going to time them all on the next oil changes.
Which Fumoto valve should I buy for Boxster/Cayman 987.2? I don't see Porsche on their vehicle list.
Fumoto intentionally doesn’t have it listed as an option.
They are not suitable for Porsche because of the location and geometry of the drain hole.
Any owners of a 2019 Subaru Impreza hatchback with the 2.0 L engine? Been considering getting a Fumoto for mine, but I can't decide which would be best for my vehicle. Doesnt help that i just had to replace the really crappy 14 mm original with a 17mm replacement part.
Nice video. I chose the EZ Oil Drain Valve, more accessible in Canada. They are almost identical.
Nice! I saw that one as well. I didn’t have any specific functional reason for choosing one as opposed to the other. I heard about the Fumoto first, so that’s what I pursued.
I just received mine today for both vehicles. Best investment I ever made. Did u use the washer came with or did u use the old washer?
I’m actually doing an oil change today and it’s nice to know I will just be flipping a lever with no tools required!
I used the blue washer that came with the valve. Not any factory washers.
If it is an SX, the valve has an integrated rubber o-ring and no washer.
Just an FYI, park half way on a curb if you don't have clearance.
That’s a good tip!
Do you think this would be good for Honda Civic 2011…… ??
I have not personally changed the oil on a Civic, but I would personally install it. It will make oil changes easily with no tools required.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial - No tools? What about removing the oil filter? LOL...
@@irishkelly654 That’s a good point. I personally just use my hand. However, some people put them on way too tight and they can be a real battle to remove.
I do all of my own oil changes, so I can remove them with my hand.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial - Thanks for the reply. Yes, I hear you. I do my own, too. I once had a filter leak because I didn't tighten it enough so I think I now overcompensate a little, ensure it is snugged down. LOL...anyway, all the best! Cheers...
@@irishkelly654 I have definitely been there. I’ve punched a screwdriver through the filter to use as a lever more than once!
A1 review sir...
Very much appreciated!
@4:25.... you could just jack the car up like a normal person to reach the drain valve.............
Good point, but slipping a board underneath was way easier and faster than dragging a floor jack out and setting up the jack and jack stands. The board was not as inconvenient as it might look.
But, now I just reach under and flip the valve open, so it’s all good.
Nice vid
Anyone in the "rust belt" of the U.S. use these long term? Curious how they have held up?
That’s me. I am in the rustbelt. I’ve had several of these installed for about four years. They are holding up fine.
The plastic safeties are gone on a couple of them, but they’re completely fine without them. It’s impossible for them to accidentally open. It requires intentional manual force.
Take a look at my most recent Fumoto video that I posted about three weeks ago and it will show the current state of the valves.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial just what I was hoping to hear. Thank you!
Looks like a good idea. I gave up oil changes 60 years ago by using filters that clean oil. At present all I use is Motor Guards Gulf Coasts and the Australian Jackmaster. On some lawn mowers I return the clean oil where the drain valve was. These filters all use hoses. Normally use Ford full flow filters. Had to change the oil on the Craftsman Kohler for the first time in 21 years.put a electric fuel pump on instead of the proper pump. Ended up with a crankcase. Full of gasoline. A low pressure pump would have worked.
You reuse the now super filtered oil? Have you ran analysis to check on additives? Such as anti wear/foaming etc etc.
This is interesting. I took a look at the two websites that you mentioned. I’ll have to look into it further.
I was talking about my 84 Subaru with no oil drains in 250,000 miles using a Frantz oil cleaner and Mobil 1. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good for that many miles. He recommended I change the Frantz and add a new quart of oil every 6 K miles instead of every 12 K miles. The car ran too hot in dallas traffic with the AC on. Got into a debate with A guy on a Trawler forum. The guy seemed smarter than usual. He said send me a propaganda package. It was NASA heavy equipment engineer. He said bring your wife down to Canaveral we can talk filters. I called Gulf Coast filters and told them to send someone down to talk to this guy.They said who is it I said NASA. I see on their web site NASA is listed as a customer. They were moving the shuttle around then. They didnt need to hear about my Subaru. At present the Jackmaster is the best little filter in production. I have the Jackmaster Classic. I use Great Value 1000 sheet from Walmart in mine. You can get 30 dollar elements but they are set up for the the bigger core TP..was talking about a truck with a million miles with one oil drain using Gulf Coast filters and Rotella. Got a call from Road King Magazine wanting the truck owners phone number..The one oil change was when someone forgot to tell a mechanic it was Shell oil test truck. Dont sell filters now. Its been interesting. Started with Frantz in 1963. Frantz is obsolete now. The top loaders are easier to service and have better core seals. Road king did an article on the truvk. The way it was explained to me is additives last a lot longer in clean oil. New oil added at filter change keeps the additives up to specs. The big Bounty towels in the Gulf Coast filter need 3 gallons of make up oil added when the Full flow filters are also changed 5.5 gallons are needed. On the Detroit series 60 425 HP it comes to the same as a full oil change every 40,000 miles. About every 250 K the engine is torn down and measured. The oil is poured back in. Of course the oil gets analyzed often.
When I sold the Frantz oil cleaner they had a FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz model. Ran an add in the paper. The paper said FFA approved. Got a call from a crop duster company inviting me to come up and look at their filters. Also got a call from mr Jones of the Jones bus company of Wichita Ks. He raised Clydsdale horses near Sedan Ks. Repaired a cracked fender panel on his Chevy pickup. The rough roads cracked the panel around the Frantz bracket. Replaced the hoses and gasket. At the time Frantz had a lot of aircraft oil analysis reports. Toilet paper fit in those days. The aircraft model used 2 ply facial quality. 1 1/2 inch core T P is hard to find now. Of course the Frantz elements fit now. When Frantz went broke a Frantz dealer improved the filters. That was the Gulf Coast junior. I think the junior might have been discontinued. Gulf Coast does heavy duty diesels now.such as Locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs. There might be some type of agreement with Jackmaster. The big engine people also have fork trucks and such that need small filters Yes the Jones bus company was Frantz equipped school buses. Im going now shouldnt be hard to find more information.
@@ralphwood8818 wow. This is the coolest most interesting information I’ve ever read on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing. Perhaps I need to do some more reading and learning. Thanks for sharing.
How much dirty oil do these leave behind? I remember on a message board someone tested this and the one that was tested left about 1/2 pint of dirty oil behind. It would have been nice if you would have shown this in the video.
That is a great point and an excellent video idea! I have also considered this, but have not tested it. I will make a video on it at my next oil change. I will drain everything with the valve, then put an empty catch pan in place, then remove the valve and measure how much additional oil drains.
I have these on four different vehicles. Maybe I’ll wait until I do it on two or three of them before I make the video so there’s more data. It should be vehicle dependent because of the shape of the oil pan.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I did some research and on Fumoto's web site it states that none of the threads will extend into the oil pan.
The test that was done was on a BMW message board and the person even pulled the pan off their car and it showed the threads sticking up about 1/4". Now this test was about 15 years ago so maybe Fumoto has changed the valves and shortened the threads so they no longer do this.
@@worldsails2000 Thanks for the update! I will definitely still do the video. I think it’s still worthwhile and I’m looking forward to it. It would be nice to prove it either way.
Mine rusted after a year, but still holding
Interesting. Thanks for the input! I’ll keep an eye on mine. My longest one has been on for two years with no issue, but I will definitely pay attention to that.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I live in Ohio, might be a weather-related issue
@@ozziejin Pump up sprayer, 2 quarts of tranny fluid, spray undercarriage. I prefer greasy over rusty.
Brass doesn't rust. You must have a cheap knockoff.
someone pointed out that oil would not drain properly
I tested that in another video.
How Much Oil Can't Drain with FUMOTO Engine Oil Drain Valve? How Much Oil is Trapped in the Oil Pan?
ua-cam.com/video/hdEsjlaobaQ/v-deo.html
I’ve never heard anyone say “valve” like this. Velve?
It’s the new cool way.
VELVE?!
Lol
You're still changing the oil filter right? That's the messiest part of the job.
Of course!
Dude, do yourself a favor and buy a pair of plastic car ramps. $60 and your life will be so much easier.
lol. I appreciate it. I do have ramps, but three of my vehicles are too low to use them.
It’s no problem though. I can easily reach under and flip the Fumoto valve open and closed. It’s all good.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Thats true with the old steel ramps but the new plastic ones come in a few different incline sizes. All three of my family cars have low clearance and my ramps work for all of them. I guess you can do without them but I cannot since all my oil filters are under the car. I have to get underneath even with Fumoto valves.
@@nickv4073 thanks. I will look into it. Ramps would come in handy for a whole lot of things other than oil changes.
Don’t use these unless you want to leave a bunch of oil in the pan still.
I made a video on that!